#stashbusterchums - No 49 Snail

This Pattern uses

UK Crochet Terms

Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g

MC: 25g approx of Tropic (253) for Body, Head, Tail and Bottom Frill.
CC1: 25g approx of Poppy Rose (390) for Shell, Antennae and Heart.
CC2: 10g approx of Tangerine (281) for Shell.
CC3: 10 g approx of Royal Orange (189) for Shell.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC5: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.

A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch de nition and creates a rm structure so
body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a
DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.

Hook
3 mm

Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.

Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stu ng showing
through.

© Pia Simpson 2022 1 mycrochetchums.com

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 Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stu ng, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.

Size
Approx 14 cm (5.5 in) tall.

Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise speci ed this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral
without slip stitching or turning chains.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the rst stitch of each round.

If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then
work the rst round into the second chain from the hook.

If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can nd a Photo Tutorial at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html

The Shell is made at using turned Rows. Each Row starts with 1 turning chain - this is not included
in the stitch count. The at piece is then folded longways and stitched together along the long sides
to create a tube which is then stu ed.

The Snail is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, nish each
piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the
end can be easily woven in.

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please
familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!

The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US
terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere
this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the nished item will be
elongated and the stu ng will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble crochet and UK tr - treble crochet - the US equivalents are
US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can nd a conversion chart at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html

If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can nd a chart of the UK
Crochet terms used at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/uk-abbreviations.html

Used to working in US Terms? My Crochet Chums Mailing Listers can download a free printable
PDF version of this pattern, written in US terms at https://www.mycrochetchums.com/free-
downloads.html

© Pia Simpson 2022 2 mycrochetchums.com

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Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish,
invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.

Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.

Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both
front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.

Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.

Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

Body & Head

The front of the Body & Head is worked rst, as one piece. The Tail Section is worked separately
and then the two pieces are stitched together once all the parts have been made.

Worked from the bottom upwards. Stu as you go. This piece uses an Oval Start rather than a
Magic Ring - there's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the technique at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/oval-start-photo-tutorial.html

The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.

With MC, chain 7.

Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts

Body & Head pattern continues on next page.

© Pia Simpson 2022 3 mycrochetchums.com

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 Body & Head pattern continued:

Rnds 6-7: Dc around.

Rnd 8: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 9: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 10: 11 dc, 3 dc2tog, 13 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 11: 10 dc, 3 dc2tog, 11 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 12: 8 dc, 3 dc2tog, 10 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 13: 6 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 26-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 33: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten o . Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.

Tail Section
Worked from the end point towards the main part of the Body. Stu as you go, stopping at Rnd
16 so that the Tail Section will sit snuggly against the Body part.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts

Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts

Tail Section pattern continues on next page.

© Pia Simpson 2022 4 mycrochetchums.com

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 Tail Section pattern continued:

Rnd 12: Dc around.

Rnd 13: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.

Fasten o . Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail Section to the Body once you've made all the parts.

Bottom Frill
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.

With MC, chain 16.

Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 15 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 15 dc, 2 ch. 30 sts
Rnd 2: [15 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 36 sts
Rnd 3: *15 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from *to ** once more. 42 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, 3 htr in each st around, 1 sl st into rst htr to join.

Fasten o . Weave in end.

Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts

Fasten o . Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.

Antennae- make 2
Worked from the top down. Stu as you go - do not stu beyond Rnd 5.

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.

Fasten o . Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antennae to the Head once you've made all the parts.

© Pia Simpson 2022 5 mycrochetchums.com

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 Heart
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.

Rnd 1: With CC1, and working into a magic ring, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1
sl st into centre of magic ring.

Fasten o . Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.

Shell
The Shell is worked at in turned rows. Once all the Rows are completed the piece is folded in half
longways and the long edges are sewn together to create a tube which is then stu ed. The turning
chains are not included in the stitch count. There are 18 stitches in each row.

With CC1, chain 19.

Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts

Rows 2-4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 5-6: 1ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 11-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 13-16: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 17-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 19-22: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 23-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 25-28: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 29-30: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 31-34: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 35-36: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 37-40: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 41- 42: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.

Shell pattern continues on next page.

© Pia Simpson 2022 6 mycrochetchums.com

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 Shell pattern continued:

Rows 43-46: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.

Change to CC3.
Rows 47-48: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 49-52: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 53-54: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 55-58: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 59-60: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 61-68: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.

Fasten o , leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the piece in half longways and use the yarn tail to sew the
two long edges together, creating a tube. Sew the edges of the rst Row together to seal the
starting end of the tube. Stu the tube - do not overstu , it needs to remain exible.

Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together rst, checking from all angles to make
sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn
needle to stitch the pieces together.

Sew the Tail Section onto the back end of the Body & Head part - the Tail Section curves slightly,
make sure it sits so that the curve point upwards.

Sew the Bottom Frill onto the base of the joined Body and Tail Section.

© Pia Simpson 2022 7 mycrochetchums.com

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Sew the Eyes in place on the front of the Head, about 6 rounds down from the top and about 3
stitches apart.

Sew the Antennae in place on top of the Head sitting about 2 rounds down from the top.

Sew the Heart in place on the front of the Body, o set slightly to the left.

Place the Shell tube on a surface in front of you with the closed short edge nearest you and the
seam on the long edge facing upwards. Starting at the end nearest you, roll the tube up away from
you, concealing the seam and creating a smooth spiral. You may nd it's easiest to pin it into the
spiral shape rst to ensure you are happy with the shape before sewing through the layers to secure
it in the shape or you can stitch it as you go when rolling it up to hold it in shape.

Once it's secured into a spiral shape, pin the Shell in place on the Snail's back with the open end
sitting nearest to his neck. Stitch in place along his back.

© Pia Simpson 2022 8 mycrochetchums.com

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Embroidered Details

Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:

Single stitch highlight on each Eye, using CC5.

The Nose, just below the Eyes using MC - oversew several times in the same place to create a
bump.
The smile using CC4.

All done!

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individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the nished
item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stu ng and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be
a danger to small children.

The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold,
transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create
the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

About mycrochetchums

I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown
and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling
guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I
wrangle with managing a website and social media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any
feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.

You can also nd me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on)
please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!

Happy Crocheting!

Pia x

© Pia Simpson 2022 9 mycrochetchums.com

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