UC: Remove, Inspect, and Refit Vehicle Wheel & Hub Assemblies

LO1: Prepare to remove wheel & hub assembly

Select and prepare appropriate tools and equipment
Prepare Rules &Select to Toolsand equipment
Automobiles are big and heavy with lots of mechanical moving parts. In the right environment a vehicle can
be maintained and repaired safely and effectively. However, in the wrong environment repairing a vehicle
can be dangerous. Follow the tips in this chapter to stay safe.
Basic Shop Rules:
Never work alone
Wear eye protection
Avoid loose clothing or hair
Stay clear of moving parts of a running vehicle
Be aware of hazardous chemicals and keep a flushing station nearby for eyes and skin (at home this
could be a bathroom sink or shower).
Keep proper clean up materials in case of an accidental spill (see below)
Don’t mix your work space with other cluttering materials such as home storage, garden tools and
other items.
Never go under a vehicle that is elevated improperly (the jack to change the tire is NOT sufficient,
see more details below)
Know where the fire extinguisher is and have a planned exit route. The fire extinguisher should be
kept in working order and in a place with easy access.
Keep an emergency response number handy and posted clearly where others can see it.
Keep an emergency kit in your vehicle for roadside emergencies or repairs.
Consult your vehicle owners manual for specific safety rules regarding your vehicle
Jack and Jack Stand Safety
A vehicle can be raised off the ground by a hydraulic jack (Figure1-13). A handle on the jack is moved up
and down to raise part of a vehicle and a valve is turned to release the hydraulic pressure in the jack to lower
the part. At the end of the jack is a lifting pad.
The pad must be positioned under an area of the vehicle’s frame or at one of the manufacturer’s
recommended lift points. Never place the pad under the floorpan or under steering and suspension
components, because they can easily be damaged by the weight of the vehicle. Always position the jack so
that the wheels of the vehicle can roll as the vehicle is being raised.
Safety stands, also called jack stands (Figure 1-14), are supports of various heights that sit on the floor.
They are placed under a sturdy chassis member, such as the frame or axle housing, to support the vehicle.
Once the safety stands are in position, the hydraulic pressure in the jack should be slowly released until the
weight of the vehicle is on the stands. Like jacks, jack stands also have a capacity rating. Always use a jack
stand of the correct rating.
Never move under a vehicle when it is supported by only a hydraulic jack. Rest the vehicle on the safety
stands before moving under the vehicle.
The jack should be removed after the jack stands are set in place. This eliminates a hazard, such as a jack
handle sticking out into a walkway. A jack handle that is bumped or kicked can cause a tripping accident or
cause the vehicle to fall.

Figure1- 13Typical hydraulic jack. Courtesy of Lincoln Automotive Company

Figure1- 14Jack stands should be used to support the vehicle after it has been raised by a jack.
Proper Lifting Points:
A motor vehicle is a 4,000+ pound piece of machinery that could fall on top of you.
Never go under a vehicle that is not elevated properly. If the vehicle is elevated properly then there should
not be any problem.
Vehicles should only be lifted at their proper lifting points. The proper lifting points on a vehicle are the
locations on the vehicle where you place the jack to lift the vehicle and where the jack stands are placed to
keep the vehicle elevated. Lifting points are different on every vehicle. The owner’s manual will specify
where the lifting points are for your specific vehicle. Often vehicles have lift points marked on the running
board or rocker panel. There are a couple of disastrous events that can happen during an attempt to raise a
vehicle without using the proper lifting points. The weight of the car pressing down and the jack pressing up
can damage the body of the vehicle. Or worse, the jack could tip or slide while a person is underneath the
vehicle. See figure 1-15

Figure1- 15 An illustration which demonstrates vehicle lift points for a sample vehicle; consult the
owner’s manual for the lift points of a specific vehicle.
Any vehicle that has a frame can be lifted by the frame. When the front is lifted the jack is usually placed
under the suspension cross member. When lifting the rear the jack is placed under the axle if it has a solid
axle. If it doesn’t have a solid axle then it should be lifted by the factory recommended lift points.
Vehicles should always be on firm, level ground. If the ground is not level then the car may roll and tip the
jack. A jack or a jack stand can also slip out or fail to hold the vehicle in an elevated position when the
ground is not firm, such as on a dirt road or when there is ice or snow.
There are different types of jacks and jack stands. A jack is used to raise the vehicle either by hydraulic
pumping or hand cranking. A jack stand is used to keep the vehicle elevated and has a firm square base. One
type of jack that people are most familiar with is the one that is included with the spare tire kit. This is to be
used only for changing the tire and it is not sufficient for keeping a vehicle elevated when working under the
vehicle. The jack used for changing tires often has a four point rectangular base. This is not as stable as a
square base.
 Figure1- 16 Hydraulic jack with hand-pump mechanism
When minor repairs are being performed, such as changing a tire, it is permissible to raise just one corner of
the vehicle, or the front or the rear. The vehicle is first raised with a jack and then placed on jack stands. (Do
not go under the vehicle while it is elevated by a jack). The vehicle should be equally balanced on the jack
stands.
A mechanics shop may have industry jacks or hydraulic lifts. These can be used to raise the vehicle and
keep it elevated. These lifts can raise the entire vehicle at the same time. When lifting the entire vehicle the
center of gravity should be positioned evenly with the lifting hoist arms. This is evident when the vehicle is
raised and all tires lift off the ground at the same time. Most vehicles are front-heavy due to the engine
block. However, many work trucks are balanced to have the center of gravity in the middle.

Figure1- 17Hydraulic lift with hoist arms that raise the vehicle on its lifting points. The lift consists of two
vertical blue beams and four white hoist arms. Two white hoist arms on the other side of the vehicle are not
seen in the pictures.

Figure1- 18; Another hydraulic lift that raises the car on its tires
LO2: Remove and inspect wheel & hub assembly
Information Sheet-1 Remove wheel & hub assembly
Wheels and Tires
The wheels and tires on a vehicle may seem mundane, but since these provide the only contact point with
the road, they actually are some of the most important parts of the car or truck. Tires not only support the
weight of the vehicle, they absorb much of the road shock and are vital to how the vehicle handles and how
well it stops. Wheels support the tires and connect them to the brakes, suspension, and steering systems.
Wheel bearings provide smooth, easy movement of the wheels and tires as well as supporting the vehicle
weight and cornering forces.
Purpose and Operation of Wheels and Tires
Wheels and tires do more than support the weight of the vehicle. Tires are the only contact with the road, so
they affect how the car or truck steers, how it rides and handles bumps, and how effective the brakes are.
Tire Construction
Most modern passenger vehicles and light trucks use tubeless tires that do NOT have a separate inner tube.
The tire and wheel form an airtight unit. Many commercial and construction vehicles use inner tubes,
which are soft, thin, leak-proof rubber liners that fit inside the tire and wheel assemblies. However, in the
last few years tubeless tires have been introduced to commercial and construction vehicles, reducing the
need for tube type tires. Tires perform the following two basic functions:
 They must act as a soft cushion between the road and the metal wheel.
 They must provide adequate traction with the road surface.
Tires must transmit driving, braking, and cornering forces to the road in all types of weather. At the same
time, they should resist puncture and wear. Although there are several tire designs, the six major parts of a
tire are as follows:
a) Tire beads (two steel rings encased in rubber that holds the tire sidewalls against the wheel rim).
b) Body plies (rubberized fabric and cords wrapped around beads. forming the carcass or body of the
tire).
c) Tread (outer surface of the tire that contacts the road surface).
d) Sidewall (outer surface of the tire extending from bead to tread; it contains tire information).
e) Belts (used to stiffen the tread and strengthen the plies; they lie between the tread and the inner
plies).
f) Liner (a thin layer of rubber bonded to the inside of the plies: it provides a leak- proof membrane for
tubeless tires).
There are many construction and design variations in tires. A different number of plies may be used and run
at different angles. Also, many different materials may be used. The three types of tires found on late model
vehicles are;
a) Bias-ply,
b) Belted bias, and
c) Radial
a) Bias-Ply Tire
A bias-ply tire is one of the oldest designs, and it does NOT use belts. The position of the cords in a bias-ply
tire allows the body of the tire to flex easily. This design improves the cushioning action, which provides a
smooth ride on rough roads. A bias-ply tire has the plies running at an angle from bead to bead (Figure 2-1).
The cord angle is also reversed from ply to ply, forming a crisscross pattern. The tread is bonded directly to
the top ply. A major disadvantage of a bias-ply tire is that the weakness of the plies and tread reduce traction
at high speeds and increase rolling resistance.
b) Belted Bias Tire
A belted bias tire provides a smooth ride and good traction, and offers some reduction in rolling resistance
over a bias-ply tire. The belted bias tire is a bias-ply tire with stabilizer belts added to increase tread
stiffness. The belts and plies run at different angles. The belts do NOT run around to the sidewalls but lie
only under the tread area. Two stabilizer belts and two or more plies are used to increase tire performance.

c) Radial Ply Tire

The radial ply tire has a very flexible sidewall, but a stiff tread (Figure 2-2). This design provides for a very
stable footprint (shape and amount of tread touching the road surface) which improves safety, cornering,
braking, and wear. The radial ply tire has plies running straight across from bead to bead with stabilizer
belts directly beneath the tread. The belts can be made of steel, flexten, fiberglass, or other materials.
A major disadvantage of the radial ply tire is that it produces a harder ride at low speeds. The stiff tread
does NOT give or flex as much on rough road surfaces.

Figure2- 1— Bias ply tire Figure2- 2— Radial tire

Tire Markings
There is important information on the sidewall of a tire. Typically, you will find Uniform Tire Quality
Grading (UTQG) ratings for tread wear, traction, and temperature. You will also find the tire size, load
index and speed rating, and inflation pressure. It is important that you understand these tire markings.
Tire Size
Tire size on the sidewall of a tire is given in a letter-number sequence. There are two common size
designations (Table 2-1)—alphanumeric (conventional measuring system) and P-metric (metric measuring
system). The alphanumeric tire size rating system, as shown in Table 2-1, uses letters and numbers to denote
tire size in inches and load-carrying capacity in pounds. The letter G indicates the load and size relationship.
Higher the letter, the larger the size and load-carrying capability of the tire. The letter R designates the radial
design of the tire. The first number "78" is the aspect ratio, also known as height-to-width ratio. The last
number "15" is the rim diameter in inches. The P-metric tire size identification system, as shown in Table 2-
1, uses metric values and international standards. The letter P indicates a passenger vehicle (T means
temporary and C means commercial). The first number "155" indicates the section width in millimeters
measured from sidewall to sidewall. The second number "80" is the aspect ratio, also known as height-to-
width ratio. The letter R indicates radial (B means bias belted, D means bias-ply construction).
Table 2-1 — Tire Size Designation Numbering System
Alpha-Numeric Tire Size (GR 78-15)
G R 78 15
Load/Size Radial Design Height-to-Width Rim or Wheel Diameter in
Relationship Ratio Inches
P-Metric Tire Size (P 155/80 R13)
P 155 80 R 13
Type Tire Section Width Height-to-Width Tire Rim or
(P=Passenger) in Millimeters Ratio in Construction Wheel
(T=Temporary) (155, 185, 195) Percentage (R=Radial) Diameter
(C=Commercial) (70, 75, 80) (B=Bias Belted) in
(LT= Light Truck) (D=Diag. Bias) Inches
Maximum Inflation Pressure
The maximum inflation pressure, printed on the sidewall of a tire, is the highest air pressure that should be
induced into the tire. The tire pressure is a “cold” pressure and should be checked in the morning before
operating the vehicle.

In most parts of the world, fall and early winter months are the most critical times to check inflation
pressures because the days are getting colder. And since air is a gas, it contracts when cooled. For every
10°F change in ambient temperature, the inflation pressure of a tire will change by 1 psi. It will go down
with lower temperatures and up with higher temperatures. The typical difference between summer and
winter temperatures is about 50°F, which results in a loss of 5 psi and will sacrifice handling, traction,
durability, and safety.
Tire Grades
The Department of Transportation requires each manufacturer to grade its tires under the UTQG labeling
system and establishes ratings for tread wear, traction, and temperature resistance (Figure 2-3). These tests
are conducted independently by each manufacturer following government guidelines to assign values that
represent a comparison between the tested tire and a control tire. While traction and temperature resistance
ratings are specific performance levels, the tread wear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following
field-testing

Figure2- 3— Uniform tire quality grade system ratings on the sidewall of the tire
Tread wear receives a comparative rating based on wear rate of the tire in field-testing following a
government-specified course. Tread wear is given as a number: 100, 120, or 130, for instance. The higher
the number, the more resistant the tire is to wear. For example, a tire grade of 150 wears 1.5 times longer
than a tire graded 100. Actual performance of the tire will vary significantly depending on conditions,
driving habits, care, road characteristics, and climate.

Straight-a-head wet braking traction has been represented by a grade of A, B, or C with A being the highest.
In 1997 a new top rating of "AA" was introduced to indicate even greater wet braking traction. Traction
grades do NOT indicate wet cornering ability.
Temperature resistance is indicated by grades A, B. or C. This represents the resistance of the tire to heat
generated by running at high speed. Grade C is the minimum level of performance for all passenger vehicle
tires as set under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. This grade is established for a tire that is properly
inflated and not overloaded.
Wheels
Wheels must have enough strength to carry the weight of the vehicle and withstand a wide range of speed
and road conditions. Automobiles and light trucks are equipped with a single piece wheel. Larger vehicles
have a lock ring (side ring) that allows for the easy removal of the tire from the wheel and, when in place, it
provides a seat for one side of the inflated tire. See figure 2-4.

Figure2- 4 Vehicle wheels

A standard wheel consists of the RIM (outer lip that contacts the bead) and the SPIDER (center section that
bolts to the vehicle hub). Normally the spider is welded to the rim. Common wheel designs are as follows:
a) Drop center
b) Semi-drop center
c) Safety Split
a) Drop Center Wheel
The drop center wheel is made in one piece and is commonly used on passenger vehicles
because it allows for easier installation and removal of the tire (Figure 2-5). Bead seats
are tapered to match a corresponding taper on the beads of the tire. Figure2- 5— Drop centre wheel
b) Semi-drop Center Wheel
The semi-drop center wheel has a shallow well, tapered-head seat to fit the taper of the beads of the tire
(Figure 2-6). It also has a demountable flange or side ring which fits into a gutter on the outside of the rim,
holding the tire in place.

Figure2- 6— Semi-drop centre and a split wheel

c) Safety Wheel

A safety wheel is similar to the drop center wheel (Figure 2-7). The major difference is that the safety wheel
has a slight hump at the edge of the bead ledge that holds the bead in place when
the tire goes flat.

Figure2- 7— Safety wheel

Split Wheel (2 Piece Wheel)

A split wheel (rim) has a removable bead seat on one side of the rim (Figure 2-6). The seat is split to allow
for its removal so tires can be easily changed. Some bead seats also require the use of a lock ring to retain
the seat. These wheels are used on large commercial and military vehicles.
Lug Nuts, Studs, and Bolts
Lug nuts hold the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle. They fasten onto special studs. The inner face of
the lug nut is tapered to help center the wheel on the hub.

Lug studs are special studs that accept the lug nuts. The studs are pressed through the back of the hub or
axle flange. A few vehicles use lug bolts instead of nuts. The bolts screw into threaded holes in the hub or
axle flange.

Normally, the lug nuts and studs have right-hand threads (turn clockwise to tighten). When left-hand threads
are used, the nut or stud will be marker with an "L." Metric threads will be identified with the letter M or the
word Metric.

Wheel Bearings
To check the adjustment of the wheel bearings, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp each front tire at the
front and rear and push the wheel inward and outward. If any free play is noticed between the hub, rotor,
and front spindle, adjust the wheel bearings.
Wheel bearings should be disassembled and serviced any time the hubs have been submerged in water.
During normal operation the bearings get warm and when they are quickly cooled off by the splash of water,
their lubricant breaks down and the bearings can be destroyed. Always replace the bearings if they are worn
or damaged.
Another frequent cause of wheel bearing failure is the use of oversized tires mounted on wheels with
substantial offset. These switch the load from the large inner bearing to the small outer wheel bearing,
which was never intended to do much more than stabilize the wheel.

Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

Wheel bearings allow the wheel and tire assembly to turn freely around the spindle, in the steering knuckle,
or in the bearing support. Wheel bearings are lubricated with heavy, high-temperature grease. This allows
the bearing to operate with very little friction and wear.
The two basic wheel-bearing configurations are tapered roller or ball bearing types. The basic parts of a
wheel bearing are as follows:

 Outer race (cup or cone pressed into the hub, steering knuckle, or bearing support).
 Balls or rollers (anti-friction elements that fit between the inner and outer races).
 Inner race (cup or cone that rests on the spindle or drive axle shaft).
There are two types of wheel bearing and hub assemblies: non-driving and driving. For example, the front
wheels on a rear-wheel drive vehicle are non-driving.
Non-driving Wheel Assembly
The components of a non-driving wheel bearing and hub assembly (Figure 2-8) include the following:
 Spindle (a stationary shaft extending outward from the steering knuckle or suspension system to
which the following components are attached).
 Wheel bearings (normally tapered roller bearings mounted on the spindle and in the wheel hub).
 Hub (outer housing that holds the brake disc, or drum, wheel, grease, and wheel bearing).
 Grease wheel (a seal that prevents loss of lubricant from the inner end of the spindle and hub).
 Safety washer (a flat washer that keeps the outer wheel bearing from rubbing on and possibly
turning the adjusting nut).
 Spindle adjusting nut (a nut threaded on the end of the spindle for adjusting the wheel bearing).
 Nut locks (a thin, slotted nut that fits over the main spindle nut).
 Dust cap (a metal cap that fits over the outer end of the hub to keep grease in and dirt out of the
bearings).
Since a non-driving wheel bearing and hub assembly does NOT transfer driving power, the spindle is
stationary. The spindle simply extends outward and provides a mounting surface for the wheel bearings,
hub, and wheel. With the vehicle moving, the wheel and hub spin on the wheel bearings and spindle. The
hub simply freewheels.

Figure2- 8— View of a non-driving wheel bearing and hub assembly.

Driving Wheel Assembly
The components of a driving wheel bearing and hub assembly (Figure 2-9) includes the following:
 Outer drive axle (a stub axle shaft that extends through the wheel bearings and is splined to the hub).
 Wheel bearings (either ball or roller type bearings that allow the drive axle to turn in the steering
knuckle or bearing support).
 Steering knuckle or bearing support (a suspension or steering component that holds the wheel
bearings, axle stub, and hub).
 Drive hub (a mounting place for the wheel which transfers driving power from the stub axle to the
wheel).
 Axle washer (a special washer that fits between the hub and locknut).
 Hub or axle locknut (a special nut that screws onto the end of the drive axle stub shaft to secure the
hub and other parts of the assembly).
 Grease seal (prevents lubricant loss between the inside of the axle and the steering knuckle and
bearing support).
 The driving wheel bearing and hub assembly has bearings mounted in a stationary steering knuckle or
bearing support. The drive axle fits through the center of the Bearings. The hub is splined to the axle shaft.
Instead of a stationary spindle, the axle Shaft spins inside the stationary support. With the hub splined to the
axle shaft, power is transferred to the wheels.

Figure2- 9— View of a driving wheel bearing and hub assembly.

BearingLubrication-Grease

Grease should be replaced every 12,000 miles or 12 months.Prior to repacking bearings, all old grease should be
removed from the wheel hub cavity and bearings.Bearings should be packed by machine if possible.If a machine is
unavailable, packing by hand method is acceptable.The method to pack bearing cones is as follows:
1. Place a quantity of grease onto the palm of your hand.
2. Press a section of the widest end of bearing into the outeredge of the grease pile closest to the thumb
forcing greaseinto the interior of the bearingbetween two adjacent rollers.
3. Repeatthiswhilerotatingthebearing from roller to roller.
4. Continue this process until youhave the entire bearing completelyfilled with grease.
5. Before reinstalling, apply a lightcoat of grease onto the bearingcup mating surface.

Operation Sheet 1 Remove wheel & hub assembly

Tools and Materials:
 Hydraulic jack
 Block
 Stand
 Lug-nut (cross wrench )
Steps and Procedures:
1. Park your vehicle on a flat surface. As with most types of auto maintenance, you'll want to take all
necessary precautions when changing your vehicle's wheel bearings to ensure your safety. The worst thing
that can happen when changing your wheel bearings is for your vehicle to suddenly shift or roll away.
Before you begin, park your vehicle on a level surface. Put the vehicle in park (or, for manuals, 1st, reverse,
or neutral) and be sure to put the parking brake up. See figure 2-10

 Note: Every vehicle is different. The instructions below are intended as a general set of guidelines and thus
will not perfectly fit every vehicle. If you run into problems while attempting to change your wheel bearing
or have doubts after you finish, it's very wise to enlist the help of a professional mechanic. Doing so can
save time, prevent future headaches, and save money in the long run.
 Figure2- 10Park the vehicle on a flat surface
2. Use wheel chocks to secure wheels whose bearings you aren't replacing.
 For added stability, it can be smart to use sturdy chocks to hold your vehicle's wheels in place. Obviously,
you'll want to use chocks on the wheels you don't plan on modifying, as the wheels you do modify will be
elevated off the ground. For example, you would place wheel chocks behind the rear tires if you are fixing a
front wheel bearing and behind the front tires if you are working on a rear wheel. See figure 2-11.

Figure2- 11Use wheel chocks to secure wheels

2 Loosen the lug nuts and lift the wheel using a jack. For proper access to the internal components of
the wheel whose bearings you're replacing, you'll need to elevate the wheel. Luckily, most vehicles
come with a jack for just this purpose. Before you lift the wheel, however, you may want to slightly
loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron, as breaking their initial resistance is harder without the ground
holding the wheel steady.(see figure 2-12) After this, carefully lift your wheel. If your vehicle doesn't
come with a jack, you may need to buy a suitable jack at an auto supply store.

To prevent dangerous slippage, make sure that the vehicle is securely seated on the jack and that the jack
is flush with the ground before attempting to lift the wheel. It's also important to make sure the jack
touches the vehicle on a sturdy, metal piece of the undercarriage, rather than on fragile plastic molding,
as the weight of the vehicle can damage the latter.

Most vehicles have jack points where the frame has extra support to lift the vehicle. It's best to check the
owner’s manual to learn the best place to position your jack.
It is also extremely wise to use a safety jack stand for added support in the event the floor or scissor jack
fails.
 Figure2- 12Loosen the lug nuts
4 Unscrew the lug nuts and remove the wheel. The lug nuts, which you should have already loosened,
should come off easily. Remove these and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them. Next,
remove the wheel itself. It should come freely. See figure 2-13.
 Some like to keep track of the lug-nuts by removing the hubcap, turning it over, and using it as a sort of
"plate" to contain them.

Figure2- 13Unscrew the lug nuts and remove the wheel

5 Remove the brake caliper. Using a socket and a ratchet, remove the caliper's bolts. Then, remove the
caliper itself using a screwdriver.
 When removing the caliper, be careful not to let it dangle freely, as this can damage the brake hose. Instead,
hook it on a secure part of the undercarriage or use a short length of string to tie it in place. A bungee cord
or bent wire hangers are two additional ways to secure the caliper. See figure 2-14.

Figure2- 14Remove the brake caliper

6 Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and castle
nut. (See figure 2-15.)In the center of the vehicle's exposed
rotor should be a small metal or plastic cap called the dust cover which protects the components holding the
rotor in place. Since you'll need to remove the rotor, the cap and the components it protects will have to go.
Usually, the dust cover can be removed by gripping it with calipers and tapping the calipers with a hammer.
Inside, you'll find the castle nut, usually secured with a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin with pliers or wire
cutters, then unscrew the castle nut and remove it (and its washer). Be sure to keep these small but important
parts somewhere that they won't be lost!
 Figure2- 15Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and castle nut
7 Remove the rotor. Place your thumb securely on the peg in the middle of the rotor assembly. Firmly (but
somewhat gently) bump the rotor itself with the palm of your other hand. The wheel's outer bearing should
loosen or fall out. Remove the outer bearing. Finally, remove the rotor itself.See figure 2-16.

 If the rotor gets stuck, you can use a rubber mallet to hit it loose. This can, however, damage the rotor, so it's
best to use a mallet only if you are not planning on reusing the same rotor.

Figure2- 16Remove the rotor. 

8 Unscrew the hub bolts and remove the old hub. The wheel bearing is inside the hub, which is usually
held in place with several bolts that screw in from behind. These bolts can be tricky to reach because they're
tucked away in the undercarriage, so you may want to use a skinny socket wrench and/or a breaker bar to
loosen and remove them. When you've removed the bolts, take the hub off of the axle.See figure 2-17.

 Note that if you've purchased a new hub assembly, at this point, you can install the new hub and put the
wheel back together and you'll be finished. To install a new set of bearings inside the hub, read on.

Figure2- 17Unscrew the hub bolts and remove the old hub
9 Disassemble the hub assembly. To gain access to the bearings,
you'll need to take apart the hub. You'll probably need to use a
wrench (and/or a hammer) to remove the end of the hub and any
anti-lock brake wheel that may be part of your hub. Then, you
may need to use a specialized "puller" tool to remove the central
bolt. The bearing assembly should come apart easily.See
figure 2-18.
 Figure2- 18Disassemble the hub assembly
10. Remove races and clean the knuckle. Removing the bearing assembly's races usually means
physically breaking them with a grinder or hammer and chisel. Because of this, you'll want to have
replacement races ready. After removing the races, it's a good idea to clean the inside of the bearing
assembly around the knuckle.See figure 2-19.
 There's usually lots of grease and grime here, so have plenty of rags handy.

Figure2- 19Remove races and cleans the knuckle

Wheel
Operation Sheet 2 Wheel bearing replacement
Bearing
Replacement

Tools and equipment:

 Hydraulic jack
 Block
 Stand
 Lugnut (cross wrench )
 Mechanical Grease Packer,
 Dial Indicator
Description  

Proper removal and installation helps avoid premature damage to the bearing and surrounding components.
Below are the steps for replacing tapered single-row wheel bearings in passenger cars and light trucks.
Steps and Procedures:
1. Wheel End Disassembly
Follow the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended procedure to remove the tire and wheel assembly, disk
brake caliper, dust cap, cotter pin, adjusting nut and washers. Pull the rotor/hub assembly toward you to
loosen the outer bearing cone assembly. Remove the outer bearing cone assembly. Pull the rotor/hub
assembly off the spindle – the inner bearing cone assembly, inner cup, outer cup and seal will come with it.
Use a seal puller to remove the seal, and then remove the inner bearing cone assembly from the rotor/hub.
Discard the seal after removal. Use a cup driver or mild steel bar to remove the inner cup and the outer cup
from the hub assembly. See figure 2-20.
 Figure2- 20Wheel end disassembly
2. Clean and Inspect Hubs and Spindles
Remove all old lubricant from the rotor/ hub assembly and spindle. Clean the rotor/hub assembly and
spindle with kerosene or mineral spirits. Inspect the spindle for wear. Use a fine file, wire brush, emery
cloth or honing stone to remove any debris, nicks or burrs. Follow the vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendation for permissible spindle wear. Apply a light grease coating on the cone seats to ease
installation and prevent fretting.See figure 2-21.

Figure2- 21Clean and Inspect Hubs and Spindles

3. Install cups
Use a cup driver or mild steel bar to drive the new inner cup and outer cup into the hub/rotor assembly until
solidly seated against the hub shoulders. Be careful not to damage the cup surfaces. Never use a bearing
cone assembly to drive a cup.See figure 2-22.

Figure2- 22Install cups

4. Lubricate
Use a mechanical grease packer to pack the inner bearing cone assembly with grease. Place the bearing cone
assembly, small end down, into the grease packer funnel. Plug the bore of the large end of the bearing cone
assembly with the conical retainer. Firmly press down on the conical retainer. This forces the grease
between the rollers, cage and cone. Smear excess grease on the outside of the bearing cone assembly. Pack
grease between the inner and outer cups in the hub cavity. Also, liberally coat the hub cap inner wall. This
layer combats moisture and retains the grease in the inner and outer bearing cone assemblies.See figure 2-
23.

Figure2- 23bearing Lubricate

5. Install Grease Seal
Replace the grease seal when it leaks or when bearings are being repacked or replaced. Install the inner
bearing cone assembly in the hub, and then install the new seal. Make sure the seal lips are pointed in the
right direction following the vehicle manufacturer’s specification. Use the proper seal installation tool.See
figure 2-24.

Figure2- 24Install Grease Seal

6. Install Rotor/Hub Assembly

Be careful not to damage the seal against the spindle when sliding the rotor/hub assembly back over the
spindle. After following Step 4, pack the outer bearing cone assembly with grease. Install the outer bearing
cone assembly, washer and adjusting nut on the spindle.See figure 2-25.

Figure2- 25Install Grease Seal

7. Bearing Adjustment

Use a torque wrench to tighten the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. while turning the rotor. Back off the adjusting
nut 1 full turn. Re-torque the nut to 10 ft. lbs. while turning the rotor. Next, back off the adjusting nut ¼
turn. Lock the nut with a new cotter pin.See figure 2-25.

Figure2- 26 Bearing adjustment

1. Check Bearing Adjustment 

Use a dial indicator to measure endplay. Mount the indicator base as close to the center of the hub/rotor as
possible. With the indicator tip against the end of the spindle, set the indicator at zero. Grasp the rotor at
three o’clock and nine o’clock. Push the rotor in while oscillating and read the dial indicator. Pull the rotor
out while oscillating and read the dial indicator again. The bearing end-play is equal to the total indicator
movement, which should be between 0.001” and 0.005.” If not, repeat steps 7 and 8. Reinstall all
components as the vehicle manufacturer recommends. See figure 2-27.

Figure2- 27 Check Bearing Adjustment

 Information Sheet-2 Report inspection findings
Report inspection findings
Perform the following procedure for each wheel end on the trailer.

1. Wear safe eye protection.

2. Park the trailer on a level surface. Use a jack to raise the trailer until all the trailer tires are off the
ground. Place safety stands under the trailer frame or axles. Do not use a jack to support the trailer.
3. Rotate the wheel assembly to check for signs of unusual resistance or roughness from the bearing.
Listen for a low-pitched grinding sound as you rotate the assembly. Use care to determine whether
sounds heard are coming from the bearing and not from the brake components or dust cover. If unusual
resistance or noise is detected: Replace the hub. Refer to Replace the Hub for correct procedures.
4. Grasp the tire and wheel-end assembly at the 12 and six o’clock positions. Check for vertical and
horizontal movement. With your hands, apply approximately 50 lb (23 kg) of force to the assembly.
You should not feel or see any looseness or movement. Figure 2-28. If you feel or see movement at the
tire circumference: Proceed to the Detailed Hub Inspection procedure. If no movement is detected:
Proceed to the Quick Clamp Load and Inspection procedure.

Figure2- 28tire and wheel-end assembly

Troubleshooting

Tire problems usually show up as vibrations, abnormal wear patterns, abnormal noises, steering wheel pull,
and other similar symptoms. In some cases, you may need to operate the vehicle to verify the problem.
Make sure that symptoms are NOT being caused by steering, suspension, or front-wheel alignment
problems.

When inspecting tires, you should look closely at the outer sidewall; tread area, and inner sidewall for
bulges, splits, cracks, chunking, cupping, and other abnormal wear or damage. If problems are found before
repairing or replacing the tire, determine what caused the failure.

a. Tire Impact Damage

Tire impact damage or road damage includes tears, punctures, cuts, and other physical injuries. Depending
upon the severity of the damage, the tire must either be repaired or replaced.

b. Tire Wear Patterns

Tire wear patterns can be studied to determine the cause of abnormal tread wear. By inspecting the tread
wear, you can determine what parts should be serviced, repaired, or
replaced. Common tread wear patterns are as follows (Figure 2-29):

i. Feathering is caused by erratic scrubbing against the surface of the road

when the tire is in need of toe-in or toe-out alignment correction (Figure
2-29, View A).

ii. Over inflation causes fast center line wear in bias and bias belted tires
(Figure 2-29, View B). In this case, the center of the tread has more
contact with the road and wears faster than the outer area of the tread.

iii. Under inflation causes the outer tread areas (shoulders) of the tire to
have more contact with the road; therefore, they wear faster than the
center area of the tread (Figure 2-29, View C).

iv. One-side wear is caused by excessive camber, which means that the tire
is leaning too much to the inside or outside (Figure 2-29, View D). This
places all the work on one side of the tire, resulting in excessive wear.

v. Cupping is caused by several problems, such as imbalanced wheels,

faulty shock absorbers, faulty ball joints, or a combination of these
troubles (Figure 2-29, View E).

c. Tire Inflation Problems

The correct tire inflation pressure is important to the service life of the
tire. Proper inflation is required to ensure that the tread of the tire fully Figure2- 29Tire Wear Patterns
contacts the road surface. This condition allows for even wear Figure 2-29.Tire wears patterns. Across the
tread, therefore resulting in increased tire life and improved handling and safety. Tire over inflation causes
the center area of the tread to wear quickly. The high pressure causes the body of the tire to stretch outward,
pushing the center of the tread against the road surface. This action lifts the outer edges of the tread off the
road. An overinflated tire produces a rough or hard ride. It is also more prone to impact damage.

Tire under inflation is a very common and destructive problem. This condition wears the outer edges of the
tread (shoulders) because low pressure allows the sidewalls of the tire to flex, which builds up heat during
operation.

The center of the tread flexes upward and does not touch the surface of the road. Under inflation will cause
rapid tread wear, loss of fuel economy, and possibly ply separation (plies tear away from each other).

Uneven tire inflation pressure can cause steering wheel pull. For example, when a vehicle that has the left
front tire underinflated and the right front tire properly inflated, the vehicle has a tendency to pull to the left.
The low air pressure in the left tire has more rolling resistance. This action tends to pull the steering wheel
away from the normally inflated tire.

d. Tire Vibration Problems

When one of the front tires is vibrating, it can be felt in the steering wheel. When one of the rear tires is
vibrating, the vibration can be felt in the center and rear of the vehicle.
Tire vibration can be attributed to several problems, such as out-of-balance condition, ply separation, tire
run out, a bent wheel, or tie cupping.

e. Tire and Wheel-Bearing Noise

Tire noise usually shows up as a whine due to abnormal tread wear or a thumping sound caused by ply
separation. Tire replacement is required to correct these problems.

Wheel-bearing noise is produced by dry, worn wheel bearings. The bearing will make a steady humming
type sound. This is due to the rollers or balls being damaged from lack of lubrication and being no longer
smooth. To check for a worn wheel bearing, raise and secure the vehicle, and rotate the tire by hand. Feel
and listen carefully for bearing roughness. Also, wiggle the tire back and forth to check for bearing
looseness. It may be necessary to disassemble the wheel bearing to verify the problem.

LO3: Service wheel & hub assembly

Information Sheet-1 Analyse and Select servicing options

Wheel-
Bearing Service
Wheel bearings are normally filled with grease. If this grease dries out, the bearing will fail. Some wheel
bearings can be disassembled and packed (filled) with grease, while others are sealed units that require
replacement when worn. When performing tire-related service, check the wheel bearings for play and wear.
NOTE: -For procedures on checking, removing, and replacing wheel bearings, refer to the manufacturer’s
service manual.

Tire Repair

Leaks from a tubeless tire are located by filling the tire with air and then placing the tire in a drum full of
water. Bubbles will show the location of any leaks. If a drum of water is not available, coat the tire with
soapy water. Soap bubbles will show the location of the leak.

It has been common practice to attempt the repair of some punctures without dismounting the tire through
the use of a rubber plug. However, this practice is no longer recommended, because of serious safety
concerns.

WARNING Using a plug to attempt tire repair without dismounting is effective only 80 percent of the
time. The remaining 20 percent of such repairs will result in tire failure, which may take the form of a
dangerous sudden deflation (blowout).

The safe and correct procedure for tire repair is to always remove the tire from the wheel and make the
repairs from the inside of the tire. After the tire has been dismounted, it should be thoroughly inspected.
During this inspection, check the inside surface carefully, to locate the puncture and determine the nature
and extent of the damage.

The Rubber Manufacturers of America lists two requirements for correctly repairing a puncture: the repair
MUST fill the injury to the tire and the repair MUST soundly patch the inner liner. Various products are
available for repairing the puncture to the tire, including plugs and liquid sealants.
Before replacing a tubeless tire, examine the rim carefully for dents, roughness, and rust; any defects may
impair or break the air seal. Straighten out any dent with a hammer, and use steel wool or a wire brush to
clean out any rust or grit in the bead seat area. After cleaning, paint any bare metal spots where the tire bead
seats so that the tire is easier to remove later. If the rim is badly damaged, replace it with a new one.

The procedure for repairing a tubeless tire (Figure 3-1) is as follows:

1. Inspect the inside of the tire and remove nails or other damaging items. Then scrape the damaged
area with a sharp-edged tool and buff. Be careful not to damage the liner or expose any cords.
WARNING Serious injury can result using your bare hand to feel for obstructions; use a rag to feel inside
the tire.
2. . Lubricate the hole by pushing bonding compound into it from both sides of the tire. Also, pour
bonding compound on the insertion tool and push it through the hole with a twisting motion until it
can be inserted and withdrawn easily.
3. Place a plug slightly larger than the hole in the tire in the eye of the insertion tool hole. Wet the plug
with bonding compound. Always pour it directly from the can so the compound in the can does not
become contaminated.
4. While stretching and holding the plug with your hand, insert the plug into the hole from the inside
of the tire. Stretch and hold the plug until it is forced into the hole and one end extends through it.
5. After the plug extends through the tire, remove the insertion tool and cut off the plug approximately
1/16 inch above the surface.
6. When using a cold patch, carefully remove the backing from the patch and center he base of the
patch on the damaged area. Stitch the patch down firmly with the stitching tool, working from the
center out.
7. When using a vulcanizing hot patch, cover the area with a light coat of glue andallow it to dry. This
glue normally comes with the hot patch kit. Remove the backing from the patch and center it on the
damaged area. Clamp it finger tight.
NOTE: Each patch or plug kit should contain specific instructions.
A few basic safety rules for repairing a tubeless tire are as follows:
 Do NOT attempt to repair a puncture by plugging the tire from the outside.
 ALWAYS dismount the tire and patch the inner liner.
 Do NOT attempt to repair sidewalls or tires with punctures larger than a 1/2 inch.
 Reduce the air pressure to at least 15-psi when removing an object from the tire.
 Broken strands in a steel belted tire can indicate more serious damage than initially suspected.
Replace the tire.
 Follow the procedures given in the tire repair kit.
 Figure 3- 1— repairing a tire puncture
Preventive Maintenance

Preventive maintenance of tires and wheels involves periodic inspections, checking inflation pressure, wheel
balancing, and rotation. Wheel bearings are periodically lubricated and checked for wear.

5.8.1 Rotating Tires

Rotating the tires will preserve balanced handling and traction of the tires and even out tire wear.
Manufacturers recommend that tires be rotated every 6 months or 6,000 miles (whichever comes first), even
if they do not show signs of wear. Tire rotation when done at the recommended times helps even out tire
wear by allowing each tire to serve in as many of the wheel positions of the vehicle as possible.

NOTE: -Remember that tire rotation CANNOT correct problems due to worn mechanical parts or incorrect
inflation pressures.

While every vehicle is equipped with four tires, usually tires on the front need to accomplish very different
tasks than the rear tires. Each wheel position can cause different wear rates and different types of tire wear.
It is to your advantage that all four tires wear together because wear reduces tread depth of a tire, and
uniform wear allows tires to respond to the operator's input more quickly, maintains the handling, and helps
increase the cornering traction of a tire. Figure 3- 2 shows common tire rotation diagrams. A description of
each is as follows:

 On vehicles that have non-directional tread patterns, rotate the tires in a forward cross pattern; you
can include the spare tire as well.

 If the vehicle has directional tires, rotate these tires from front to back only and vice versa.

 If the vehicle has non-directional tires that are a different size from front to rear, rotate these tires
from side to side only.

When your tires wear out together, you can get a new set of tires without being forced to change tires in
pairs. You will also be able to maintain the original handling balance of the vehicle.
Figure 3- 2— Tire rotations.
LO4: Cleanup work area and finalize work processes
Information Sheet-1 Final inspection

Cleaning Equipment Safety

Parts cleaning are a necessary step in most repair procedures. Cleaning automotive parts can be divided into
three basic categories.
i. Chemical cleaning relies primarily on some type of chemical action to remove dirt, grease, scale, paint,
or rust (Figure 4 –1). A combination of heat, agitation, mechanical scrubbing, or washing may be used to
help remove dirt. Chemical cleaning equipment includes small parts washers, hot/cold tanks, pressure
washers, spray washers, and salt baths.
ii. Thermal cleaning relies on heat, which bakes off or oxidizes the dirt. Thermal cleaning leaves an ash
residue on the surface that must be removed by an additional cleaning process, such as airless shot blasting
or spray washing.
iii.Abrasive cleaning relies on physical abrasion to clean the surface. This includes everything from a wire
brush to glass bead blasting, airless steel shot blasting, abrasive tumbling, and vibratory cleaning. Chemical
in-tank solution sonic cleaning might also be included here because it relies on the scrubbing action of
ultrasonic sound waves to loosen surface contaminants.

Figure 4- 1A solvent-based parts washer.

Guide to Inspection

To check a wheel bearing, the auto technician should grasp the wheel at top and bottom and attempt to rock
it. If there’s any movement there, it means the bearings are loose and need to be replaced. Another option is
to rotate the wheel by hand – any roughness or noise will tell you that the bearings are worn or damaged.  If
the vehicle has a lot of miles on it, and one wheel bearing has given out, be sure to check all of the others as
well. Chances are, they are nearing the end of their lifecycle.

Wheel assembly run-out testing

The term wheel run-out or out of round refers to any component of a wheel or tire assembly that is not
perfectly round. Radial run-out is where the radius of the tire is not consistent from the wheel midpoint to
any point on the rim. Too much radial run-out can cause up and down vibrations which means there will be
up and down hopping when it spins. Radial run out as well as other wheel and tire malformations can be a
cause of bumpy rides and sometimes even collisions. Lateral run-out is the amount of sideways motion or
the amount of “wobble” in a wheel or tire as it rotates which feels like dynamic imbalance problem.
BALANCE/RUNOUT
Tire and wheel imbalance may result in irregular tire wear. Steering axle and drive axle tires should be
balanced dynamically for best results. Vibration may also be the result of mismatch of the high and low
spots of the tire and wheel.
To resolve vibration problems, the run -out of tire and rim should be measured, and then matched in the
following manner:
1. With the tire mounted on the rim, number both at 12 asymmetrical points.
2. Measure run -out at the shoulder of the tire and record the results. (Note: accuracy in these measurements
is essential.)
3. Demount the tire, measure the rim for run-out, record the results, then average the inside and outside
measurements.
4. Matching the lowest average point of the rim to the highest average point of the tire, remount the tire,
then balance accurately.
5. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure since the tire cannot be measured accurately while on an
imperfect rim. Note: If a run-out dial is not available, rotate the tire 180 o relative to the rim and remount. If
the vibration persists, rotate the tire another 90o, then another 180o.
6. The maximum suggested radial run-out for a rotating tire/wheel assembly is .125 inches for both front
and rear tire positions. If run-out exceeds suggested limits, check for bent rims, cocked rims, improperly
adjusted wheel bearings, improper tire bead seating, tire flat spots, improperly tightened rim clamps and rear
rim spacers.
Tire Run-out

Tire run-out — also sometimes referred to as out-of-round — involves a tire which is no longer perfectly
round. As a result, the tire’s balance will be thrown off. Up to a certain point, run-out won’t affect the
performance of a car. Yet once it reaches a critical threshold, problems like vibration and excessive wear
will ensue.
Tire run-out may take one of two forms, known respectively as radial and lateral run-out. Radial run-out,
which tends to be more common, has to do with the distance between a tire’s tread and the center of the
wheel. Ideally, this distance should be the same at virtually any point on the outside of the tire.
Radial run-out involves distance discrepancies from one point to another. The greater this discrepancy, the
more it will cause the wheel to bounce up and down as it rotates. This bouncing causes the vibrations that
often travel up through the steering column, becoming noticeable inside of the car.
Lateral run-out has to do with the distance between the center and the edge of a tire’s tread. The greater the
amount of lateral run-out, the less support a tire will have at certain points in its rotation. This lack of
support can cause the tire to wiggle or vibrate. It may also cause a car to veer erratically left and right as it
moves.
Causes
Tire run-out tends to be a self-propagating issue. In other words, once the process of run-out has begun, it
will progressively grow worse and worse. Yet run-out may have a number of root causes that set this spiral
into motion. In the majority of cases, the initial issue involves a wheel or tire that was not installed
correctly.
You can avoid this cause of run-out by always having a professional mechanic install your wheels and tires.
Not only will they have the experience necessary to perform this task correctly, but they will also check
their work using a special run-out gauge. Such tools allow them to ensure that a wheel goes on straight and
true.

Run-out may also stem from tires with manufacturing flaws. Less expensive tires often suffer from this
issue. For one thing, cheaper tires are not subject to as many quality control protocols. Second, the
manufacturers of such wheels often use inferior wheel molds. High-quality tires should be manufactured
using segmented molds.
Prevention
Proactive car owners can prevent tire run-out in a number of ways. The first involves stocking your
automobile with only the highest quality tires. While it can be daunting to pay more for such tires, remind
yourself that you will be saving money in the long run by preventing run-out and associated problems.
Second, have your tires inspected, rotated, and maintained on a regular basis. An ounce of prevention will
go a long way to ensuring that your tires stay as close as possible to a perfectly round state. For more
information on what it takes to keeps your tires in tip-top shape, contact the experts & Service Centers.

Information Sheet-2 Check and store Tools and equipment’s

Receipt handling and storage

Suppliers of tires, wheels, rims and assemblies have an obligation to ensure they are delivered in a safe
manner and are assembled in a way not to cause an unacceptable level of risk. This should include:

 the vehicle used to transport tires, wheels, rims and assemblies is fit for purpose
 Manufacturers’ transport and handling instructions are followed (e.g. bead protectors are in place on
new tires)
 Tires are secured during transport using the correct slings or strapping, not chains, to avoid internal
damage to the tires
 ensure tires are loaded and unloaded correctly with suitably rated mobile plant, preferably a tire
handler (if using a forklift, to avoid damage, do not insert tires through the center of the tire)
 Tires assemblies are assembled and inflated to OEM (original equipment manufacturer)
requirements for transportation.
On receipt of assemblies, where tires have been fitted to wheels or rims off site, conduct a verification check
that all wheel and rim components are secure and that the tires are at the OEM (original equipment
manufacturer) recommended pressure for transport, prior to handling.

A record of the details of tires, wheels and rims that have come to site and are to be used as part of
operations must be maintained. This should include inspection and repair information. This may be
achieved by using the stamped or branded serial numbers for identification.

Handling
Handling damage to tires can lead to tire failure at any time. As a minimum, the tire manufacturers’
instructions should form the basis of correct handling technique. General guidance includes:
 use only fit-for-purpose tire handling equipment
 using flat slings or straps for lifting—never use steel wire rope slings, chains or rope
 where possible leave the bead protector in place until the tire is ready to be fitted
 Consider keeping the bead protectors in case the tire is removed in the future for repair or re-tread.
Large heavy equipment tires and tire assemblies can weigh a significant amount.

Some vehicles use water ballast in the tires which may weigh some 20-30% more than similar sized air-
filled tires. At this size there is no other option but to use mobile machinery to handle the items. If tire
assemblies move unexpectedly during transport, handling or fitting there is potential for crush injuries to tire
fitters or machine operators.
The following should be considered, when working with, or handling heavy objects during tire, wheel and
rim repairs:
 use jacking pads, jacking equipment and stands that are designed and rated according to the
instructions of the OEM
 the weight of wheel assemblies should be clearly marked in a prominent location
  Never work near or under a suspended load—this includes vehicles that are on jacks. A vehicle on a
jack is considered a suspended load until it is supported on appropriate work stands
 apply sound communication and traffic management procedures when tire fitters or spotters are
interacting with heavy mobile equipment
Aside from purpose-built tire handling machines, various tire-handling equipment and attachments are
commercially available for use with forklifts, telehandlers, loaders and hydraulic vehicle loading cranes.

Information Sheet-3 Complete workplace documentation

Workplace Conditions
 Workplace conditions are very critical to ensuring the safe demounting, mounting and inflation of tires of
heavy mechanical vehicles. It is essential to ensure that the premises are safe prior to the work.
 Areas used should be enclosed or fenced off. Warning notices on prevention of unauthorized entry should
also be posted in conspicuous area as well as around the vehicle. The servicing worker or supervisor should
ensure that the area surrounding the vehicle is clear of persons and equipment before performing such
work. When considering a suitable place for the work, barriers such as walls, containers or other natural
barriers should be set up or arranged with the aim of reducing the effects or injuries to anyone once the tyre
or rim components fly off or explode.
 The work should not be performed on grades, slopes, ramps or cambers with gradient.
 The surfaces or floors should be:-
a) firm, flat, smooth and level;
b) Free from debris, bumps, objects or contaminants;
c) Free from potholes or loose materials; and
d) Well-drained.
 The working environment should be sufficiently well lit by natural or artificial lighting. Lighting should
be so arranged to avoid glare where practicable. Extremes of light and dark between adjacent areas
should be avoided as it needs some time for the eyes of servicing workers to adapt to a sudden change in
light intensity.
 Any work should be avoided when weather conditions may possibly endanger the stability of the
equipment or cause danger to the servicing workers working nearby. Attention should also be paid to
weather warnings announced by the Hong Kong Observatory such as the thunderstorm warning,
rainstorm warning, typhoon signal, flooding signal and strong monsoon signal, etc.
10. Documentation
 To perform tyre demounting, mounting and inflation work safely, manufacturers’ manuals such as rim
manuals, tyre manuals, service manuals and maintenance manuals should be readily available for
reference by the relevant personnel in the workplace.
 A logbook system should be in place to record all inspections, tests, repairs, maintenance and hours of
service of the respective wheel components. All entries should be dated and signed by the operators,
maintenance staff or supervisors. The person responsible for the heavy mechanical vehicle should ensure
that the logbook is kept up-to-date and easily accessible for inspection.