F O OT P O

-
W ER L OOM W E AV I N G
ED WAR D F . W O R ST
S u p e r v iso r of E l e m en t a r y Manu al T ra ining an d

Co n s t ru ct io n W ork , Ch ica go, 111 .

Se con d E d i t io n Enl a r ge d

H E B R U CE P U B L I S H I N G CO M P A N Y
MI L W AU KEE , wr s .
 I NTR OD U CTI ON

H E sugges tions o ff ered i n thi s m a n u a l a r e fo r thos e wh o b el i ev e th a t t he mo r e a dv a nc ed weav

i ng sh o ul d be p u rs u ed as a m os t wh ol es om e occ up a ti on a nd th a t i t s ho ul d a gai n , i n t h e n ea r
fu t u r e, fi nd a pl a c e no t o n l y i n th e sc hool bu t a l s o i n th e h om e F ew l i n es of oc c up a tio n
.

furn ish m o re e xc el l en t opp ortun i ty fo r c o l o r c om bi n a tio n a nd d esign th a n does th e c r a f t of

wea vm g .

G ir l s t a kin g the v a ri o us h ou s eh ol d a rts c ou rs e s wil l

-
fi nd weaving a gr ea t a id i n u n d e rst a n di ng
th e stru c tu re of a pi ec e of c l o th .

Th e wo r k i s so of pos s ibi l iti es a nd th e r e s ul ts obt a i n ed h a v e su c h a wo nd e rfu l eff ec t o n the

fu l l
ch a r a c t e r of t he wo rk er th a t th e s e a l on e aff ord a m pl e r ea sons why wea vin g sh ou l d b e c a r r i ed on i n
bo th sc h oo l a nd com m u ni ty .

D o ubl e wea vi ng i t was don e i n th e ea rly d ay s i s suc h a my st er y to the h om e wea v e rs of t od a y

as

th a t i t wa s th ough t a dvis a bl e t o a dd a c h a p te r o n thi s b r a nc h of th e wo r k i n the p r es en t ed iti on .

Th e sc a rci ty of l i n e n at t h e p res e n t tim e sugges te d to the a u th o r th e a dd i tio n o f a few good li n e n

wea v e rs F l a x i s so ea sily c u l tiva te d a nd p r ep a r e d fo r u se th a t th os e i nt e r e st ed wil l fi nd l i ttl e d iffi
.

c ul ty i n p re p a ri ng th e fl a x fr o m th e s ee d to th e fi nis h e d p i ece of c loth .

Th e d esc rip tion s giv en a r e for th e a m a t e u r wea v e r wh o wil l

. fi nd th e m m ore ea sily u nd er s d
th a n th os e giv e n i n th e m or e t ec hn i c a l boo ks on t h e s ubj ec t .

I t i s h op ed th a t th os e i n te r es t ed wil l fi nd h el p th rou gh th e sugges tion s o ff e r ed i n thi s m anu a l .

ED WARD F . WO RS T .
 TA B L E OF CONTENTS

C HA PT E R I C HAP T E R I V
T HE LOOM W AR PI NG AN D T HR E A D IN G L oo m We av i ng Th e
,
— —
ANALY S I S OF W OVEN PATT ER N S —
Ho w to Ma k e Dra f t From a a
C onstruction of Pl a in C l oth Th e E ssenti al Part s of Lo om —
Wo v en P attern —
Anoth er An al y si s —
B l ock i ng Out a Pattern
Prep arin g a Long Warp T h e Warp i ng B oard and I ts Use—
F ro m a Dra f t 1 0 1 -1 0 7 '

T a k i n g O ff th e War p Th e War p i ng R eel

—
Alt ern at e M eth od o f —

Warp in g with F our Th rea d s K eep ing Acco unt o f Th read s

‘

CHA PT E R V
Warp ed Wa rp i ng a N umb e r o f Th reads at O nce T urnin g o u
— —
,

or B ea m i n g T h e War p S p rea d er L a y i n g in Sti ck s Kn otti ng

— - —
L IN E N WEAV E S —
Th e Wea v i n g o f L inen Marth a Wash ing ton: —

t h e H eddl es H ed dl e Sti ck s Th readi ng th e Loo m Th e R eed

— — —
T owel fi
B etsy R os s To wel M olli e Pit ch er T owel— Th ree Har
—

Th r e ad ing a n d P l a cing th e R ee d T y i ng th e L o om Th e C l ot h— —
n ess Linen Wea v e —
Trea dlin g Dr a f t for Th ree H a rness Weav e -

B eam Th e S h ed Th e S ma l l S h uttl e B ob b i n Wi nd er Th e
— — — —
Ms '
an d o
’
s P attern 1 08 1 1 4
-

T em p l e Th e R e el
b

CH AP T E R II CHAPT E R VI

PATT E R N WE AVIN G R ag R u g s I ntrod uci ng C ol or Pl a i d s Pa t

— — — —
D A NI S H AN D NOR W EGI AN WE AVIN G —
E xp res si ng D ani sh P attern s
tern We av in g B eg inni ng th e Th r ea d ing T h rea din g th e R eed
— — —
R ea din g a D ani sh Dra f t —
T y in g th e T read l e —
N o rweg i an Pa t
T y i n g th e H eddl e Sti ck s Wea v in g th e P att ern Weav i ng a
— —
terns 1 1 5-1 2 0
B ord er S econd C h an g e in P a ttern U si ng C h eck ed P ap er
— —

A d ap tati o ns o f P a tterns R o se P a th P attern Th re ad ing a n d

— —

C HAPT E R VI I
Wea v i ng th e P attern T h e L a mb s —
40 54 -

S W ED I S H WE AVIN G S wedi sh Way of Writin g a D m ft I rreg ul ar

— —

CH APT E R III T h rea d i n g Th r ee H ar n ss D r a tt E i g h t H a rn ess P att er n Hed

— -
e — - —

COLON I AL PATT E R N S R ea d in g a P attern Draf t T h e B i g Di am on d

— —
d I e Fra m es T ie u p fo r T wo S ets of La m b s Si x H arnes s Pa t
— - — -

Pattern Th e T ie u p Weav i ng th e P attern Th e Trea dl i ng

— - — —
te m Si x H arness Loo m E i g h t H arne s L o m M i scell aneo us
— - — -
s o —

Dra f t Wh ere to B e g i n th e T h read in g for L arg e P atterns B l ock

— —
S wed i sh P atterns 1 2 1 -1 6 3
Wo rk Pattem C h ariot Wh eel P attern O rang e Pee] P attern
— —

G ov ernor s G ard en B onap arte s M arch Weav in g th e B ord ers

'
—
’
—

C HAPT E R VIII
B loo m ing Fl ower Sn a i l s T rail Pine K not F ed er al K not
’
— — —

Wh eel o f F ortun e I r is h C h ain R in g s and C h a ins Ol d Q uilt

— — —
D AMA S K D OUB LE WE AV E D amas k Wea v e Th read in g th e R eed
— —

P attern M i scell aneo us Patter ns~Wl nd F l ower P attern Wh i g

— —
T l e u p T e n H a m ess
— —
T ie u p Tab l e
-
Mat R u g Wea v in g in
- - —

R ose Pattern S un Moo n a nd Stars Pine C one B loo m Lil y o f

—
,
— —
Wool O p erati o n o t T read l es Sea S h el l P attern Tie up for
- — — -

th e V all e y 55 1 00 V irg ini a B ea uty Transp osi ng a F o ur H eddl e

—
1 64 1 7 6 - -
 TAB L E O F C O N T EN T S—
Co ntinu ed

CHA PT E R I X CH APT E R X
D OUB LE WE AVIN G D oub l e Weav i ng E ntering th e D oub l e Warp in
— — TEX T I LE S AN D WOO D —
C om b i nati o ns of Te x til es and Wood F oot fl —

H arness Wea v i ng D oubl e C l oth Do ub l e Pattern Weav ing

— —
Stool Wa ste B as k et S creens
— —
215 223 -

Warp for D oub l e Wov en P attern Th readin g and Tie u p for

— -
CHAPT E R X I
D ou bl e Wov en P attern E xp l ai nin g th e T ie up E q u i p ment of
— - — D E S I GN AN D C ON S T R U C T ION OF L OOM S D anish L oom S wedi sh
— —

L oom for D oubl e Weav ing M iscell aneous M ateri al s Th readi ng

— —
L oom 2 2 4 2 32
-

th e R e ed fo r D oub l e Wea v in g T ie u p D ou b l e Wea v i ng with

— - fl DY E S AND D Y E IN G M ordant F orm ul ae for D y ei ng Y ell ow R eds
— — — —

S ev eral C h ang es Anal y s i s o f D oub l e Wov en P attern Tread

— —
—
Prep arati on of Ol ium B l ue D y es Green D y es Green with
— — —

ling Th e Warp B eam Do ub l e Weav ing with T wo H arnesses

B irch L eav es V i ol et D y es V iol et with C och i neal B ro wn D y es
— —

G ra y Dy es B l ack D y es F ui th er Us e o f U sed D ye L i q ui d s
— —

— — '

P attern H arness Tabb y H a m ess Th e Fig u re H a rness E x

— — —

Y ell ow Af t er D y e s R ed -
Atter D y eé B lu e Att er D y es V i ol et
— - — - —

p lai ni ng th e T ie up M i scell aneou s D oub l e Wo v en Pat

- —
Af ter D yes Gr e en A f ter D y es D y ei ng o f Ol d G ood s B l e ach i n g
- fl - — —

t erns of Wool en G ood s H and Meas ures 2 34 2 57 -

177 214 -
—
 F o o t P o w e r L o om
-
We a v in g
CH AP T E R I
T h e Loom , Wa r pin g a nd T h r ea ding

Loo m W eav in g wea vi n g don e by th e wom e n i n th e m ou nt a i n s of K e nt uc ky

Not wi th st a ndi n g th e i n t rod uc tion of the p o we r l oo m a nd T en ne ss ee S o a tt r a c tiv e is th is wo rk th a t l i ttl e d i tti
.

a n d a ll i ts wond e rfu l p oss ibi l i ti es th e h a nd l o o m s ti ll

c ul ty is e xp er i en c e d i n di sposin g of th e a rticl es wov en .

,
S i nc e th e i ntrod uc ti on o f m a ch i n e spi nn in g a nd wea v
su rviv es a nd s eem s l ik ely to c o n ti nu e i n u se si nc e n um e ro u s
i ng n o hom e i n d u stry wh i c h a pp ro a ch es th em i n u se fu l nws
sch ool s a nd h a nd i c r a f t soc i eti es as wel l a s m a ny independ ,

o r i n t e re s t h as t a k en th e i r pl a c e I t i s t ru e th a t th er e a r e
e nt a r t work e rs a r e b ecom i ng i n te r es te d
.

Th i s giv es hop e
m a ny l i n es of wea vi ng no w prod uc e d by th e m ach in e, too
.

th a t a t som e ti m e i n th e n ea r f u tu r e th e dom es tic oc c up a

i ntric a t e t o be a tte m p t ed on th e h a nd l oo m b u t th e wea ving
,
tions of wea vi ng a n d sp inn in g i n bot h fla x a nd woo l wil l of l i n en co tto n wool e n a nd th e co a rs e r sil k th rea ds i n to
, ,
ag a in fi nd a pl a c e n o t o nl y i n t h e h om e b u t a l so i n th e
, m a t e ri a l s of st re n gth a nd b ea u ty fo r h om e u se ca n q u i t e
,

studi o a nd i n th e i ndu s tri a l sch oo l The a pp r ec i a ti on of

.
wel l be c a r ri e d on i n t he s tudio a nd ev en by th e h om e m a k e r
h a n d wo rk h as d u rin g t h e p a s t d ec a d e, i nc rea s e d i n th e
, wh o h as o th e r hou s eh ol d oc c up a ti on s .

es tim a tion of th e p ubl i c . Th er e i s n o d ou b t as to t he su p e ri o r i ty o f a wel l m a d e,

I n v a riou s E u rop ea n c ou n tri es as we l l as i n I ndi a
, ,
h a n d wov e n a rticl e Thi s i s pl a i nly sh o wn if th e h a nd
-
.

C hi n a a nd Ja p a n h a n d l oo m wea v ing s til l c on ti nu es I n

,
.
m a de a nd t h e m a ch i n e m a d e a r ticl es a r e c om p a r ed Ha n d
-
.

No r way and S wed en a v er y suc c es sfu l l i n e of h om e ih l oo m weavi n g too , i s sup eri or to m a c h in e wea vin g i f j ud ged
,

d ustr y is c a rri ed o n to gr ea t a dv a nt age to m a ny wom e n .

by th e eff ec t i t i s l ik ely to h a v e on th e work e r Th e h a n d
.

wh o fi nd i t n ec ess a ry to a id i n th e f a m i ly su pp ort . Th i s wea v e r i s empl oy ed i n a pl ea s an t i ng en i ous occ up a tion

,

may al so b e s a i d of th e wom e n i n th e O rkn ey a n d S h e tl a n d wh ic h ex e rci s es a l l h i s f a cu l ti e s , wh i l e th e a tt e nd a n t o n a

I sl a nds. po we r l oo m i s e nga ged i n a m ono ton ou s to i l i n wh inh no
O f l a t e m uch h a s bee n wri t te n of th e bea u ti ful h a n d q u a l i ty b u t i n t ens e wa tchf ul n es s i s r eq u i r e d
.
 F O O T P O W E R L O OM WEAVING
—

5 H J Th e f
jof thi s m a n u a l o n weaving i s to giv e to th e
ob ect

a m a t e ur wea v e r th e b en efi t of th e a u th or s exp e ri e nc e i n
’

p r ep a rin g th e fi b er s, th e wa rp in g a nd th e th r ea di n g of th e
l oom fo r pl ai n wea vi ng as we l l a s l ea rn i ng to in t erpr e t a nd
,

to ex ec u t e v a rio us p a tt ern d r a ft s ns ea i n ou r o wn an d
o th er co un tri e s .

Th rou gh th e ex e rci s es giv en i t i s hop e d the wea v e r may

be l ed to i nv en t a n d to wo rk ou t m a ny i nt er esti ng a nd
ori gi n a l d esign s .

Th e C onst r u ction of Pl ai n C loth

I f a p i ec e of pl a i n c l oth i s ex a m i n ed i t wi l l b e fou nd
to con sis t of a nu mb e r o f l ongitu di n a l th r ea d s p l a c e d si d e
by sid e and i nt e rl a c ed by a con tin uo us sin gl e th r ea d The .

l a tt e r th r ea d p a ss es a l t e rn a t ely a bov e and b el o w o r b efor e

a n d b eh i n d th e l ongi tud in a l th r ea ds F ig 1 sho ws th e a r
. .

r a ngem en t of th e l ongi t u di n a l th r ead s a nd th e c on tin u ou s

th r ea d c rossing an d i nt ers ec ting th em .

Th e l ongi tudin a l th rea ds of a p i ec e of wov e n mat eria l

ar e a l way s c a l l e d th e wa rp Th ey a r e so n a m ed , b ec a u s e
.
,

i n ord e r to a l lo w th ei r b e ing i n t ers ec t ed conv eni en tly by

th e c on ti n uou s c rossing th r ea d th ey h a v e to b e wa rp ed ,

th a t i s ti gh tl y s tr a i n e d i n posi tio n o n som e k ind of fr a m e

,

p r ep a r ed fo r th e p u rpos e Th e c on tin uou s c rossing th r ea d

.

h a s s ev e r a l n a m es , su c h as wef t, woof or sh oo t ( sh u t e )
,
.

I f th e wa rp th r ea ds a r e c a r efu l ly ex am i n ed th ey Wi l l
be fou nd t o consi s t of s ev e r a l fi ne th r ea ds t wis te d togeth e r .

'

Thi s i s don e to giv e a dd e d str e ngth Th e weft m a y b e.

singl e an d th e th r ea d on ly sl igh tly t wi st e d , as th is m ak es Fig . l —

A Pi ece of Pl a i n Cl oth
 E SS E N TIAL PARTS OF A L O OM

it soft so th e wa rp a nd wef t a r e ea sily p r ess ed togeth er i nto

a fi r m m a t e ri a l .

Th e wea vin g of m a ts a nd b a sk ets from l oc a l m a t e ri a l s

a nd fr o m r a ffi a r ee d a n d wi l lo w m ay b e don e wi tho u t a ny
‘

sp ec i a l a ppl i a n c e fo r h ol d in g o r s tr etchi ng th e m a t eri a l

whil e i t i s b ei ng wov en .
_

“f h en fi ne th r ea d i s to b e wov en th e p robl e m i s v ery

diff er en t a nd i t be c om es a bsol ut ely n ec ess a ry to d evi s e
,

som e kin d of fr a m e to h ol d a n d s tr e tch the wa rp u pon so ,

th a t th e weft m ay b e r ea dily i n t e rl a c ed wi th it Th e mo r e
'
.

el a bo r a t e fr a m e co ns tr u cted fo r th is p u rpos e h as by u ni

v ers a l con s en t bee n c a ll ed a l oo m .

Th e Ess e nti al Pa rt of L oo m
a
Fi g . 2— Sim pl e Loo m
I n all th e a nci en t p ic tu r es of l oom s th e s tr etch ed wa rp
n a te st ri ngs c ross ea c h o th e r i n r egu l a r s ucc es sion Wh i l e
th r eads a r e sh o wn a n d th e i n s e rti on of t he weft th r ea d s
.

th e rod s D a r e k ep t i n th ei r posi tion i n t h e wa rp it i s im

“ ”
is sugges t ed ; b u t th e l ea s e, t he o n e u n iver s a l a n d i ndi s
‘

possibl e fo r th e th r ea d s t o get ou t of pl a c e o r to get h op e

p ens abl e con triv a nc e u s ed i n wea vi ng , h as b ee n om i t ted .

l es sly e nt angl ed as th ey c ert a i nl y woul d i f a ny gr ea t n um

Wh il e n ot sh o wn i t m u s t h a ve b ee n th ere, fo r no l oom ,

b er of th r ea ds wer e u s ed
,

could b e op e ra t ed with o u t it
.

Th i s c ros s i s c al l ed the l ea s e a nd i s r ea l ly th e one ih

Fig 2 ill u st ra t e s th e th r ee st eps i n t h e c on str u c ti on
di sp en s abl e p a r t of th e l oo m N o two l oom s may b e a l ik e
.

of a sim pl e l oom Th e const ruc tion i s sim il a r to the l oom s

.

i n a ny o th e r r esp ec t b u t i n the c a s e of the l eas e O ne ca n

m ad e by th e p u pil s of th e l o we r gr a d e s
.

n o t d is pense wi th th i s si mpl e yet p e rf ec t con t ri va nc e fo r

'

F ig 2 “
A sh o ws th e l oo m wi th o u t th e th r ea d
”

k eepi n g th e wa rp e d t h r ea ds i n ord e r wh en a l on g wa rp
. .
,
“
B ”
sho ws th e wa rp th r ea ds wou n d upon i t l en gth
m a d e u p o f h u nd r ed s of th r ead s i s r eq u i r e d .

“
0sho ws th e s tri ngs on the bo a rd i n te r s
”
ec t ed by t o w Prep a rin g a Lo n g W ar p
rods D , in su ch a way th a t a l t ern a t e st rin gs go o y er and
“ ”
A wa rp l onge r th a n th e l oom c a n no t b e m a d e u pon th e
’

u nd er ea ch rod I n th e sp a c e be t wee n t h e rod s th e al t er

. l oom as wa s sh o wn i n A, B , C, F ig 2 . .
10 FO O T P O
-
WER LOOM WEA VIN G
'

C B A E D s uc h as woul d b e r eq u ir ed for a foo t po wer l oo m Th e -

.

wa rp i n g bo a rd m a k es i t possibl e t o il l ustra t e p erf ectly

th e p ri nc ipl es of w
a rpi ng .
'

Th e bo a rd sh own i n F ig 3 ( 1 , 2 a nd 3 ) i s si x f ee t l ong
.

by one foo t wid e I t i s m a d e t o h a ng fi r ml y on a wa l l a t

.

s uc h a h eigh t from th e gro un d th a t th e op era to r can r ea c h

E D
t o any fia r t of i t wi th ou t diffic ul ty .

O n a bo a rd , th e si z e i ndic a t ed i n F ig 3 , a wa rp ten .

y a rds i n l e ngth m ay b e wa rp ed A l ong er l ength may be .

wa rp ed eith er by i nc r ea si ng th e l ength of th e bo a rd or by
i nc r ea si ng i ts wi dth and a dding t o th e n umbe r of p egs .

Th e p egs sh ou l d be m a d e of h a rd wood n o t l es s th a n six

‘

C D 1 D
i nc h es l ong and one inc h i n di a m e t e r .

Th e p egs m a rk ed A a n d E m u s t b e m ov a bl e p er f ec tly
h ,

sm oo th a nd h av e nic ely ro und e d ends Th e sp a c e b e t ween

. .

A a n d B sh oul d not b e l ess th a n one foo t, a nd th e sp a c e be

Fi g . 3 —
Use of Wa rp in g B o ard
t ween B an d 0 si x i nch es Th e sp a c e b e t ween D a n d E
,
.

Th i s b ei n g tru e, som e so rt of a pp a r a tu s m us t be con shou ld a l s o b e onefoot ( No 1 F ig . .

,
.

struc t ed o n wh ic h to b u i l d u p a s eri e s of th rea ds of ex a c tly

The Bo ard in U se
t h e r eq u i r ed l en gth a nd nu mb e r of th r ea ds Th es e t h rea ds
.

m ust be h el d i n ex a c tly th e s a m e t ensi on so th a t wh en

.
Let th e
“

p robl em a t h a n d b e to m a k e a wa rp of th i rty
t r a n sf e rr ed to th e l oom a n d str e tch e d b e t wee n its f ron t a nd th r ea d s t en y a rds l on g .

b a c k bea m s th ey sh a l l g iv e th e wea v er as l i ttl e troubl e a s P l a c e a sp oo l of ordi n a ry fou r ply c a rp et wa rp on end -

pos sibl e wi th l oos e th r ea ds i n a r ec ep t a cl e of som e kin d i n ord e r th a t th e th r ea d m ay

}
.

T hi s p roc ess of p r ep a rin g th e th r ea ds i s c a l l ed war p fr eely u n wi nd I f a spool r a c k m ay b e conv e ni en tly h ad

ing . Th er e a r e s ev e r a l wa y s of doi n g th e wa rp ing .
th e sp oo l m ay b e sl ipp e d on to on e of th e roun ds of th e

C onstru ction of Wa rp i ng B oa rd r a c k Tie th e f ree en d of th e spool of wa rp to t h e m ov ab l e

.

A N o 2 F i 3 G u id e th e th r ea d u n der p eg B a n d
F ig 3 sho ws th e co ns truc tion of a wa r p in g bo a rd
.
Ou .
p ge ,
.
, g . .
l

th is bo a rd may b e wa rp ed a m od e r a t e n u mb er of th r ea ds , o ver peg 0 Th en fol l o w th e dotte d l in e a s shown i n N o

. ,
.
 S E CURIN G THE CR O SS E S 11

2 , Fig 3 , by a ll o wi n g th e th r ea d to p a ss ou tsid e th e p egs

. i ns t ea d of one Ou a cc oun t of th e co a rs en ess of th e wa rp
.

1 , 2 , 3 , b a c k t o 4 , th en to p egs 5 , G a nd 7 , u n ti l i t r ea ch e s th e r e i s l it tl e o r n o d a n ge r of th e th r ea ds b ecom i n g t a ngl ed .

peg D , wh ic h i t go es
a n d un d er peg E, a nd
u nd er C a rry th e th r ea d no w ov er
. A m or e d et a i l ed ex pl a n a tion o f ru nni ng m o r e th a n fou r
th en b egi n i ts r e tu rn by c a rry i ng th e
‘
th r ea ds wil l b e giv en l a t e r Th e abov e h o wev er, wo rks
.
,

thr ea d ov e r D N o 3 F ig 3 , o n t o peg 7 ( s ee do tt ed l i n es )
,
.
,
.
v e ry s uc c essfu l ly .

a nd so b a c k i n th e s a m e cou rs e u n til we a g a i n r ea c h peg 1

,
. S ecuri n g t h e C ross e s
I t m u st n ow b e t a k en b e lo w C, ov e r B , a nd b el o w A ( see Th e im port a n t m a tt e r of s ec u rin g the c ross es i s ea sily
dott ed l in es ) . Th i s com pl et e s o n e cou rs e Th e wa rp ing . d on e b u t i f fo rgo tt en th e wa r p wi ll b e spoi l ed wh en i t i s
,

bo a rd shou ld now l ook l i k e N o 3 F ig 3 wi th th e th r ea d s

.
,
.
,
r emov ed from the bo a rd .

c rossed b e t ween p egs B an d C , and D a nd E T wo th r ea d s . F ig 4 sh o ws c l ea rly th e way i t i s don e

. Th e l et te rs in .

h av e now b ee n wa rp ed , h a vi ng a l en gth of ten y a rd s b e d ica te th e p egs of t he wa rpi n g bo a rd ; th e h ea vy l in es a r e

t ween th e c ross es . th e th r ead s of a wa rp , wh ic h may b e of a ny n u mb e r of
Th e s econ d threa d h a vi n g b een c a rri ed a ro u n d a n d th r ea ds .

ov er peg A wen t u nd e r B a nd th en fol l o wed e x a c tly th e

‘

,
C D

cou rs e of th e fi r st th r ea d u n ti l i t r ea ch ed E Th en fo l .
,

l o wi ng th e s e c ond th rea d b a ck i t r ea c h e s A, goe s und er a nd

ov er th e peg, and fou r th r ead s ou t of the th i rty a r e wa rp ed .

B y th e ti m e fi ftee n for wa rd a nd fi ftee n b a c k wa rd j ou rn ey s

Fi g 4— S ecuri ng th e C rosses
a r e m a d e th e s a mp l e wa rp of th i rty th r ea ds i s fi nish ed a n d
.

may be ta k e n f rom th e bo a rd as s oo n a s th e c ross es h a v e Th eim port a n t c ross es a r e sho wn b e t ween C a nd B

bee n m a d e s ec u r e .
a nd b et wee n D a n d E A thi n pl i a bl e cord a bou t two y a rds
.
,

O ne ca n r ea d il y u nd e rs ta nd by th e a bov e e x pl a n a tio n l on g is no w d r a wn in a t ea c h c ros s f rom th e b a c k to the

:

th a t a gr ea t a mou n t of ti m e woul d b e con su m e d i n m a ki ng fron t th rough th e op e ni ngs i n f ron t of th e p egs Tie the
, .

a wa rp by h a ndli n g o ne th r ea d a t a tim e S i nc e fou r ply e nds o f t h e c o rd as sh o wn i n Fig 4 B y th i s m ea n s t h e

-
. . .

c a rp e t wa rp i s to b e u s ed for th e fi r s t wa rpin g fou r spool s , c ross es a r e p e rf e c t ]y s ec u re d .

m ay b e pl a c ed on th e sp oo l r a ck th e fou r ends ti ed to th e
, I t wil l be obs e r v ed th a t th e r e i s a no th e r c ross i n th e
prop e r peg a t one tim e a nd th e n t h e cou rs e p u rsu e d wi th wa rp b e t wee n B a nd A Th i s i s no t so im po rt a n t A sh or t
cord may be d r a w
. .

th e fou r th re a ds a s was d esc rib ed fo r only o n e th r ea d

,
. n th rou gh th e l oo p a t peg A an d t h e ,

th r ea d s may be ti ed al l toge th e r
'

Thi s c a u s es fou r th r ea d s to p a ss u nd e r a nd ov e r th e p e s g
.
12 FOOT P O -
WER L O OM WEA V IN G

C D f;

Fi g . 5— Ta k i ng o ff th e Warp

Th e wa rp m ay now be r emov ed f rom th e boa rd and th ewa rp wi t h th e l ef t h a n d a bo u t t wo f eet f rom th e end .

m a d e in to wh a t is c a ll ed a ch a i n .
Wh il e th e warp i s b eing h el d wi th th e l ef t h a nd , th row th e
en d ov er t h e wa rp wi th t h e righ t h a nd , as sh o wn a t F ,

T a k in g O H th e Warp F ig 5 . .

Th e wa rp off th e
i s t a k en wa rp ing b rd fo r oa conven i Th i s m ak es a ki nd of l oop With th e left h a nd sti l l
.

enc e i n tr a n sf e ri n g i t f rom th e bo a rd to th e wa rp b ea m of
h ol di ng th e wa rp , th e r igh t h a n d is p u t th rough th e l oo p
th e l oom .
a t G , F ig 5 Th e wa rp i s gr asp ed a nd dr a wn th rough th e
. .

Th e c ross es h av in g b ee n m a d e s ec u r e, th e wa rp i s r ea dy l oop far enough t o m a k e a s econd l oop h el d by th e righ t

,

t o be r em ov ed from th e bo a rd Th e l on g s tri ngs b et wee n

.
h a nd Th e l ef t h a n d i s now fr ee a nd is pu t th rough th e
.

th e c ross e s may b e wr a pp ed a rou nd th e wa r p to p r ev en t new l oo p h el d by th e ri gh t h a n d .Th e wa rp i s gr a sp ed a n d

th em from h an gin g i n th e way .

dr awn th rou gh th e n ew l oop th us m a k i ng a thi rd l oo p
Firs t r emov e th e peg A, F ig 5 A l lo w th e wa rp to slip
. .
h el d th is t im e by th e l ef t h a nd Th e r igh t h a nd b ein g fr ee
.

from th e o th e r p egs , B a n d C a nd a l so N o 1 , F ig 5 H ol d
. . .
i s pu t u p th rough th e th i rd loo p th e wa rp i s gr a sp ed and
,
,

Ch M Wart from War p i ng B oard

;
F ig . 6 —
a in
. ad e with
 14 FOQ T P OlVER
-
L O OM WEA VIN G

Fi g . 1 1 *— M the od o f Starti ng Th read s

Fi g . 12 —
Th re ad s P assed o v er L ower P eg s

Fig . 9 —
Work i n g Drawin g of S p ool R ack Fi g . 10 —
S p ool R ack Fi g . 13 —
An oth er M th
e od O f Starti ng Th reads

d r awn th rough th e l oop Th is i s c on ti nu ed un ti l th e en

. Th e Warpin g Reel
ti r e wa rp h a s b ee n r emov ed from the b o a rd Th e of th e wa rpi ng r eel som e ti m es c a l l ed th e
'

. u se ,

Th e proc ess of t a ki ng off th e wa rp wil l b e r ecogn i z ed wa rpi ng m i l l som ewh a t simplifi es th e p roc es s of wa rping
, .

a s t h e s a m e a s m a kin g a c h a i n s ti tc h i n c roch e ti n g th e ,
F ig 7 sho ws a worki ng d ra wing of a wa rpi ng r eel a n d
.
,

h a n ds doin g th e work i nst ea d of a h ook S ee F ig 6 . . .

F ig 8 sh o ws th e fi n ish ed r ee l
. .

B efor e pl a c ing th e wa rp wh ic h m ay n ow b e c a l l ed a
,
I t wi ll b e obs erv ed th a t th e p egs a pp ea r on th e c ross
ch a i n , o n th e wa rp b ea m of th e l oom a noth er m et ho d of b a rs of th e fi nish ed r eel m a rk e d A, B C and D , E th e
w
, , , ,

wa rpi ng wi l l be c onsi d er ed . s a m e as on th e a r p ing bo a rd Th e dist a nc e b et ween the.

 THE WA R P IN G R EEL 15

uprigh t p os ts of th e r ee l i s 2 7 i nc h es Th e spools of wa rp . b el o w B t o p a ss ov er 0 a nd b rin g the two a bov e B so th a t

a r e pl a c ed as wh e n th e wa rpin g bo a rd was u s e d S om e sort .
th ey p a ss b el o w 0 , F ig 1 3 F rom th i s p oi n t th e fou r
. .

of a spoo l r a c k i s a l mos t i ndisp ens a bl e Y e t a ny co nv en i en t . th r ea ds a r e gui d ed a rou nd th e r ee l j us t a s a bov e d esc r ib ed .

way of a rr a ngi ng th e spool s so th e th r ea d wil l f r eely u u T h e fou r th r ea ds p a ss ov e r a n d u nd e r D a nd E, a s sh o wn

wind wi l l a ns we r th e p u rpos e F ig 9 sh o ws th e workin g
, . .
i n Fig 1 2 O n th e i r r e tu rn to peg A th e fou r th r ea ds p as s
. .

d r awing o f th e spool r a c k a nd F ig 1 0 sh o ws th e fi nish ed . u nd er th e p egs th e two wen t ov er , a n d ov er th e p egs th e

r ack .
two wen t u n d e r , a nd th e wa rp in g p roc eeds i n th e s am e

S upposin g th a t fou r th r ea ds a r e to b e wa rp ed a t one m a nn e r as wh e n u si ng th e wa rp in g bo a rd .

t im e Th e fo u r end s a r e a l l t i ed a t o ne ti m e to peg A ,
.
Kee pin g Accoun t of th e Num b e r of T hrea ds Warp e d
Fig 1 1 Th ey a r e c a rri e d u n d er B a nd ov e r 0 a nd th en
. .

As soon as th r ea ds h a v e c ross ed a few tim es b e

th e
st art on th ei r way a ro un d th e r ee l , th e th r ea ds b ei n g gu id ed t wee n p egs D a n d E i t wil l be fo u n d d iffi cul t to r em emb er
,
on th ei r way to p egs D a nd E by th e l e f t h a n d wh i l e th e h o w m a ny th r ea ds a r e g a th e r ed tog eth er on t h e p egs It .

ree l is tur n ed by th e ri gh t h a n d Th e p erson p erfo r m ing

.

b ecom es n ec ess a ry to u se som e d evic e for k eep ing c ou n t i n

the w ork r em a in s st a tion a ry O n r ea ch in g peg D th e group
.

ord e r to k no w wh e n th e wa rp i s c omp l et ed .

of fou r th r ea ds i s c a rri ed ov er it u nd e r a nd a rou n d E a nd

, Thi s a c cou n t ca n b e ea sily k e p t i f a p i ec e of c o rd o r
b ack und e r D as sh o wn i n F ig 1 2 F rom h e re the th r ea d s
,
. .

t a p e i s u s ed.

st art b a ck to wa rd p egs A, B a nd C p a ssin g u nd er C, ov e r ,

a nd und e r a nd a rou n d A u nd e r B a nd ov er 0 as i n th e
, ,

r eel m ea su r es 2 7 i nch es b et wee n posts P a ssing

Th e .

a rou nd th e r eel onc e i s e q u a l to th r ee y a rd s of wa rp .

Fi g . 1 4— K eep in g Account of Th reads Wa rp ed
K no wing th i s m a k e s i t a n ea sy m a t t e r to m ea su re 0 11 a ny
,
’

numb er of y a rds . Aft e r th e grou p of fou r th r ea d s p a ss es b e t ween p egs

D a nd E fi ve t im es , d r aw o ne e nd
cord o r t a p e of th e
Anoth e r Way to B e g in With Four Th re ads
th rough th e op en i n g n ex t t o peg D a nd th e oth er en d ,

fo u r th r ea ds m ay b e ti ed tog e th e r a n d sl ipp e d on
Th e th rough the op en i n g n ex t to E a s sho wn i n F ig 1 4
, . .

to peg A t wo th r ea ds b e ing on top of th e peg a nd th e

,
Th e wa rpi ng c o n ti n u es u n ti l nve m or e grou ps h a v e
oth er two b el ow B ri n g th e t wo th r ead s wh ic h a r e b el o w
. b ee n wa rp ed o r r eel ed as th e p roc ess i s som etim es c a l l ed
, .

A, ov er B , a nd th e two abov e A b el o w B A l l o w th e two

,
.
“

Th e end of th e c ol o r ed co rd o r ta p e m a rk ed “ f, ” F ig 1 4 .
,
16 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

is now p as s ed th rough th e Op ening n ex t to peg D , and

th e end of th e c ord o r t a p e m a rk e d “ e” p a ss es th rou gh t h e
op eni n g n ex t to p eg E, th u s m a ki ng a c ross i n th e c ord or
t a p e b et wee n th e fi r st group of five an d th e s ec on d gr oup
of fi ve As th e re a r e t wenty th r ea ds i n ea c h group th e
.

wo rk e r k no ws th a t th e wa rp c on t a i n s forty th rea ds Thi s .

is contin u ed u n ti l th e r eq u i r ed n umb e r of th rea ds h as b ee n

r eel ed.

Th e c ross a t th e b egi nn i ng a nd th e one a t th e end of

th e wa rp a r e no w s ec u red in th e s am e way a s wh en t h e
wa rp i s m a d e o n th e wa rpi ng bo a rd .

Re m o v in g t h e Warp fro m th e Reel

P eg A i s r emov ed a nd th e wa rp i s sl ipp ed f rom p egs
B a n d C A ch a i n is m a d e th e s a m e as wh en r em oving a
.

wa r p from th e wa rpin g bo a rd S ee F ig 1 5 . . .

To W a rp a Num b e r of T h re ads at O n ce

I f on ly fou r o r si x th r ea ds ar e wa rp ed a t a tim e th es e
m ay ea sily b e c a rri ed a nd pl a c e d ov er a nd u nd e r th e p egs
i n a grou p I t wil l b e l ea rn ed a l i ttl e l a t er th a t , wh en th e
.

l ea s e rods a r e pl a c ed eith er fou r o r six th r ea ds , a c cording

,

to th e n u mb e r wa rp ed a t a tim e, wil l p a ss ov er a n d u n d er
t h e r od s a t one tim e .

Wh e n eigh t ten t welv e, or six t een th r ea d s ar e wa rp ed

, ,

a t a ti m e th e p robl e m is som ewh a t m or e compl ic a t ed a nd

sh oul d b e don e i n suc h a way as to b r ing a l t e rn a t e th r ea ds

ov er a nd und er th e l ea s e rods Th is a rr a ngem en t of th e
.

thr ea ds m a k es th e th r ea di n g of th e l oo m ea sy and k eep s

Fi g . 15
—
R em o v ing th e Warp f rom th e R eel th e th r ea ds fro m
b ecom i ng sn a rl ed o r t wi s ted one wi th an
18 FO O T PO
-
WER L O OM WEAVING
'

F ig . 1 7B —
R eel i ng E i gh t T h ea
r ds With P ad dl e
 WARPIN G S E VER AL THREADS 19

th r ea ds a r e c ross ed o n th e fi ng er a n d th u mb of th e ri gh t
h a nd Th i s c ross i s t r a n sf err ed to the p egs Wh en pl ac ed
. .

o n th e p egs B a nd C i t wi l l be fou n d th a t th e r e i s a c ross

,

i ng of al t ern a t e th r ea ds Th e e igh t th rea d s ar e now h el d i n

.

o n e grou p a n d c a rri e d a rou n d th e wa r p ing r eel u n til th e

p egs a t the oth er end a r e r ea ch ed The grou p of th r ea ds .

i s c a rri ed ov e r a nd u nd e r th e p egs th e s a m e as was d e

sc rib ed wi th th e wa rpi n g bo a rd wh e n on ly o ne o r fou r
th r ead s a t a tim e wer e wa rp ed .

T u rn i n g O n, or B eam in g
At th e p r es en t tim e th e wa rp i s i n l ong c h a i n r ea dy
a

to b e pl a c ed o n th e l oom i n su c h a way as to m a k e i t p os
sibl e fo r th e wea v e r to p rod u c e a p i ec e of cl oth T o d o th i s .

t h e end s a t E m u s t b e a t t a c h ed to a rol l e r , ( in thi s c a s e

t h e wa rp b ea m ) a nd sp r ea d ou t a n d wo u nd e v e nly a nd
ti gh tly u pon it T he wa rp b ea m h ts i n to th e b a ck o f th e
Fi g First Th read P ul l ed Fi g S eco n d Th read P ull ed
.

. 18 —
. 19 —

D own D o wn l oom fr a m e as sh o wn i n F ig 2 0
,
. .

F or d em on str a tion su ppos e th a t th e c l o th to b e wov en

,
-

h and on the l o wes t th r ea d on th e righ t sid e of th e gui d e i s 2 2 in ch e s wid e a n d th e r e a r e to b e 2 4 th r ea d s to ea ch i nch .

and pr essin g i t do wn wa rd F ig 1 8 Th e th r ea d j u st
. .
Th e wa rp t h en c on t a i ns 5 2 8 th r ead s a nd thi s n u mb e r i s,
,

pr ess ed d o wn p a ss es u n d e r th e fi ng er a nd ov e r th e th u mb .
m a d e u p o f 6 6 grou ps of ei gh t th r ea ds ea ch I t wil l b e r e .

With the thu mb p r ess do wn th e l o wes t th r ea d o n th e l eft m emb er e d th a t c ou n t wa s k ep t of th e grou ps by m ea n s of

sid e of the gu id e, F ig 1 9 Th is th r ea d p a ss e s u nd e r th e
. .
th e c o rd o r t a p e b et ween t h e p egs l ) a nd E wh il e th e wa rp

thumb and ov er th e fi nger Al l o w th e fi ng er to p r e ss do wn

.
ing was i n p rogr e ss .

the s ec ond th r ea d on th e righ t si d e o f th e gu id e Th i s

W
.

th rea d now p a ss es u nd e r th e fi nger a nd ov e r th e th u mb .

T he a rp S pre ad er ( Ra ddl e )
Wi th the th u mb p ress do wn th e s econd t h r ea d o n the l eft F ig 2 1
. sh o ws a wo rk ing d r a win g o f th e spr ea d e r , a l so
sid e of th e guid e, F ig 1 8 Th i s i s c on tin u e d u n ti l a ll th e
. . c a l l ed r a dd l e .
20 FO O T P O
-
WER LO OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 2 0— Lo om with P arts N a med

 THE WARP SPREADER 21

Fi g . 21 —
Work ing Dra wi ng of War p S p rea der or R ad d l e

F ig . sh o ws the d r a win g of th e fi n ish ed sp r ea d e r

22 The ca p i s d eeply groov e d a bov e the t ee th a nd h as h ol e s
with th e top r em ov ed .
n ea r th e e nds Th rou gh th e s e h ol es th e sid es o f th e fr a m e
.

Th e spr ea d er i s mos t sim ply d esc rib ed a s a c omb , wi th p a ss i n o rd e r to fi x i t o n a s sh o wn i n F ig 2 2

,
. .

a mov a bl e ca p to cov e r th e ends of th e t ee th T he f r a m e i s

.
A lo om fu l l y e q u i pp e d h a s i n th e eq ui pm en t a cou pl e
m ad e of wood The t ee th m ay b e m a d e of do we l rods o r
.
of rod s o ne to b e u s ed i n pl a ci n g th e a r p o n th e bea m
,
"
.

h ard wi re N a il s h av e som e tim e s b ee n u s ed

. . l Vith th e ch a i n a t h a n d a nd t a k ing th e end wh ich ,

Fi g . 22 —
Wa rp S p read er with C a p R e mo v ed
22 FO O T -
PO WER LO O M WEAVIN G
a nd D so doi ng th e c ross i s r et a in ed Th e rod may
. By .

n ow be ti ed to th e wa rp b ea m A p rovi sion is a l wa y s m a d e
.

for th is ty i ng I n th e ol d col onial l ooms , h ol es a r e bor ed ;

.

'
.
i

th e sam e is tru e of th e Swedish typ e wh i l e th e D a ni sh

.
,

l oom s h a v e a groov e p lough ed i n th e b ea m from en d to

end i nt o wh ic h a sm ooth wood e n o r m e t a l s ti c k i s pl a c ed

to h ol d th e wa rp to t h e b ea m .

F rom th efron t of th e loom r emov e th e b ea t er som e ,

:

ti m es c a l l e d th e b a tt en , t h e b r ea s t b ea m a nd th e h a rn ess
F ig 2 0. Th is m a k es a fr ee op en i ng from th e fr on t to th e
.

wa rp b ea m .

Fi g 23 —
M eth o-d o f K eep ing Cross
rod sh o wn i n F ig 2 3 to th e w a rp beam wi th
Tie th e
.

wh en o n th e r eel wa s bet wee n D a nd E,

p u sh a rod th rou gh N o 1 2 bl ocki ng t wi n e Thi s f a st en s th e ch a i n to th e b ea m ,
. .

t h e op en ing m a rk e d “ A ” Fig 2 3 , U n ti e th e c or d wh ic h
. . bu t i n ord e r th a t i t m ay b e pl a c ed on th e b ea m ev enly t he
h el d th e c ross and a l l o w i t to r em a i n on the o th er si d e of gr oup s of th r ea d m u st b e dist rib u t ed i n th e wa rp sp r ea d er .

th e c ross ed th r eads , as sh o wn i n B Fig 2 3 Tie th e ends

,
. . P l a c e th e sp r ea d e r u nd e r th e ch a in a n d on a l ev el wi th
of th e c ord to th e th e rod , th e wa rpi ng b ea m To hol d th e sp rea d er i n th is p osition i t
.

Fi g . 24 —
S p read er in Pl ace on L oo m
 US IN G T HE SPREADER 23

may b e t i ed to th e up righ t p a rts of th e l oom , or i t m ay b e

h el d by two p erson s , o ne at eac h s id e of th e l oom F ig . .

2 4 sh o ws th e spr ea d e r in pl a c e JTWith th e top of t h e

s
-

spr ea d er r emov e d th e groups of th r ea d may no w b e d is

t ribut ed i n th ei r r egul a r o rd e r S i nc e th er e a r e 5 2 8
.

thr ea ds i n al l a nd e igh t th r ea d s in each grou p , th er e wi l l

' '

be ex a c tly 6 6 group s Th e r e a r e t o b e 2 1 th r ea d s to ea c h
‘

inch This m
. ea n s th a t th r ee gro ups o f e igh t th r ea ds m u s t
“

be pl a c ed t o the i nch T h is wi l l occ upy th r ee sp a c es on th e

. .

sp r ead er .
B y m ea n s of th e c ross th e grou ps of th r ea d m ay b e ,

' '

us ed in th ei r r egul a r o rd e r an d pl a c ed i n th e spaces of th e
sprea d er Wh en th i s i s c ompl et ed th e ca p i s p l a c e d a n d
.

f ast en ed and th e wa rp i s r ea dy t o b e b ea m ed
,
.
F ig . 26 —
Warp Di stri b uted
One p e rson h ol d s th e"chain and th e o th e r t u rns th e
b eam by pl acing a peg i n to one of th e h ol es a t t h e end of La y in g in S ti ck s
'

th e b ea m , a s sh o wn a t A, F ig 2 4 . . As th e warp i s b e ing wo un d o n to th e b ea m , th i n s trip s

of woo d a bo u t i n th ickn ess a r e l a i d o n th e b ea m for
t h e wa rp to wi n d ou . Thi s p r ev en ts th e wa rp from b ecom
i n g t a n gl ed a n d a l so k eep s t h e wa r p e v e n a c ros s th e e n ti r e
b ea m S trips s uc h as a r e u s e d i n th e bo t tom of sh a d es a r e
.

good fo r th i s pu rpos e Aftcr fou r o r fi ve y a rds of wa rp a r e

.

wou n d o n to th e b ea m , l ay i n m o re st ri p s
‘

A s ta n d may be m a d e to h ol d th e sp r ea d e r , a s sh o n w
i n F ig 2 5 F ig . 2 6 sh o ws th e wa rp di stri bu ted Aft er
. . .

th e wa rp i s di st 1 ib u te d th e i s pl a c e d , th u s h ol din w th e
ca p

g 1 o u ps of th 1 ea d s s ecu 1 ely i n th e i 1 p rop e r sp a c es

_
Th e.

sp 1 ea der , wa rp ,
a n d a l l m a y no w b e t 1 a n sfe1 r ed to th e

Fi g . 2 5— Stand to H ol d S p read er 10 0 111 a nd th e wa1 p may b e p u t o na s a bov e d esc rib ed

,
.
 WER L O OM WEA VI N G
"

24 FO O T P O
-

of ex a c tly th e s a m e si z e a h eddl e fr a m e i s c on struc te d

,

a b ou t 1 2 in ch es by i nc h es by 3 i nch es , sh own i n Fig .

29 . Th e p egs a r e n u mb er ed a , b , c and (1 Abou t .

from ea c h end a peg i s pl a c ed a nd i n th e c en t e r two p egs

a r e p l a c ed o ne i nc h a p a rt , Fig 3 0 Th e p egs sh ou l d be
. .

ro u n d ed a t th e top an d wel l s a nd ed to m a k e th em p e rf ec tly

sm oo th , th u s c a u si n g th e h ed dl es to sl ip off ea sily .

ordi n a r y fou r ply c a rp et th rea d is a f a i rly good

'

Th e -

m a teria l to be u s ed i n h eddl es S om e tim es l i n en th r ea d i s

.

us ed a nd som etim es a h a rd t wist e d cotton c a l l ed s ei n e ,

Fi g . 27 -
L ease R od s in Pl a ce t wi n e, u s ed i n fi sh n ets , is u til iz ed The t wi n e i s c u t lon g
.

en ough i n o rd e r th a t it may be l oop ed arou n d a Fig 3 0 ,

. .

Th e bea m i s t u rn e d u n ti l th e o th e r end of the c h a i n Tie a kno t at b a nd a no th er a s sh own i n c Th e e nds ar e .

o r wa rp is r ea c h ed C a r e sh o ul d b e t ak en to hol d th e wa rp
.
th en ti ed a t d“ ”
.F rom 2 5 to 5 0 may b e ti ed be for e r em ov
fi r mly whi l e th e win din g i s don e Th e c h a i n u n r a v el s as
.
i ng th em f rom th e p egs Th er e m u st be as m a ny h ed dl es
Wh en the opposi t e end i s
.

it i s wo u n d on t o th e bea m
as th er e a r e th r ea ds i n th e wa rp Hed dl es fou n d i n th e
w
.
.

r ea ch ed th e c ros s h ic h wa s so c a r eful ly gu a rd ed a t th e m ar k et ar e m a d e of wi re T h ese may be s ucc essful ly u s ed

. .

p egs A, B and O i s r ea c h ed I n to th es e op en i ngs th e l ea s e

“

rod s a r e pl a c ed , a s sh o wn i n F ig 2 7 . .

Th e wa rp sp r ea d e r may n o w be r emov ed
'

La te r th e l oo ps a r e c ut , c a u sin g th e e nds to h a ng in
st ea d of th e l oo p , a s sh own i n Fig 2 8 Th es e en ds m ay be
. .

t i ed in b u nc h es i n a l oos e kno t , thu s p r ev en ti ng th em from

l osing th e i r pl a c es i n p a ssin g u nd er and ov er th e l ea s e
rods , Fig 3 1
. .

Knottin g th e Heddl es
Th e wa rp pl a c ed on th e b ea m , i t bec om es neces n ow

s a r y to c on sid e r th e k n ottin g of h e ddl es o r l ea sh es as th ey ,

ar e som e tim es c a l l ed I n ord e r t h a t ea ch h eddl e may be

. Fi g . 28 —
L0 0 p s ,
H a ng ing O v er Lease R ods
26 FOOT P OWER
L
L O OM W
VEAVI N G

Fi g . 32 —
Th re a d i n g th e H ed dl es
 THREADI NG THE L O OM 27

T h re a din g t h e Loo m

Th e h a rn ess con si sts of two s ets of h eddl es o ne di r ec t ,

l y b a c k of th e o th e r a s sho wn i n Fig 3 1
,
Th e th r ea d ing
. .

of th e fi r s t l oom wil l b e fo r pl a i n weavi ng s uc h as m ay b e ,

u s ed i n rugs Th e on e wh o i s to th r ea d th e l oom h a s c om
.
,

for ta b ly s ea t e d h i ms el f i n f ron t of th e h a rn ess as sho wn i n ,

F ig 3 2
. F irs t a h eddl e on th e f ron t stick s i s pu sh ed a l ong
. .

Th e fi r s t th r e a d i s p ick ed u p a nd th e en d i s th r ea d ed

th rough th e eye l ef t fo r th is p u rpos e i n th e h eddl e A h eddl e .

i s n ow t a k en f rom th e b a c k s tick s a nd th e s ec on d th r ea d is
p ick ed u p a nd pl a c e d i n t h e eye of th e h e dd l e Aft e r b eing .

t h r ea d ed it i s p u sh ed a long a no th e r h eddl e fro m t he f ron t

,

s ticks i s p ick ed ou t , a nd th e th i rd th r ea d i s p u t th rough

th e op en i ng .I t n ow i s pu sh ed a lon g a nd a h ed dl e from th e
b a c k stick s i s p ic k ed o u t a nd th r ea d ed wi th th e fou rth
“

th r ea d .

F ig 34 —
R eed P os iti on Th read i ng
R eed
.

Fi g . 33 —
Th e

Th i s is c on ti n u ed u nti l al l th r ead s h av e b ee n u s ed .
a nd 1 9, p a ssi ng ov er a nd t he o th e r u n d er th e l ea s e rods ,
o ne

Th e h eddl es m u s t b e so pl a c ed o n th e s tic k s t h a t ea c h o n e th ey a r e th r ea d ed i n th ei r r egu l a r ord er .

may be sl ipp e d a l ong wi th ou t i n t erf er enc e f rom any of th e Th r ea d ing th e h eddl es i s of the gr e a tes t import a nc e, a s
oth e rs Wh en fou r th r ea d s p a ss ov e r a n d u nd e r th e l ea s e
. o n e m ist a k e wi l l th ro w ou t th e whol e su cc essio n of r em a i n

i ng th r ea d s I f th e h ed dl es a r e of st rin g th e th r ea ding
’

rod s a t one tim e th e th r ead s sh oul d b e t a k e n in th ei r r eg .

ul a r ord er a s n ea rly a s possibl e F o u r t h r ea ds going

.
-
m ay b e don e wi th th e fi nger s only , bu t if th e h eddl es a r e
e i th er ov e r o r u n d er a r e th r ea d ed b efor e t a ki ng th e n ex t of Wl l e it wil l r eq u i r e a h ed d l e h oo k to d r a w th e th r ea ds
‘
‘

.
~
fou r I f th e th r ea d s a r e c ross ed , a s sh own i n F i gs 1 8 .
’

th rou gh th e ey es .
28 F O OT-
PO WER L O OM WEAVI NG
Th e Ree d

The r ee d i s th e lon g c omb l ik e p i ec e of app a r a tu s wh ic h

- .

nts i n th e bea t er o r b a t t en and a ids i n p u sh in g or p r es si ng

th e woo f i n it s p rop e r pl a c e F ig 33,
Th e sp a c es i n t h e
. .

r eed ar e u su a l ly term ed “ d en ts ” .

R eed s ar e sol d by n u mb er F or i nst a nc e, a n u mb er

.

1 2 r eed m ea ns th a t th er e a r e 1 2 op en ings o r d en ts to th e
in ch . A n u mb e r 1 5 r eed m ean s th a t th er e a r e 1 5 d ents to
th e i nc h , etc .

Th readin g th e R ee d
’

The th r ea ds h a vi ng bee n dr awn th r ou gh th e h ed dl es

ar e no w r ea dy t o en ter th e d en ts of th e r eed a nd ust m
a g a i n en t e r i n th ei r r egul a r ord er Th e th reads m u s t not
.

b e a l l owed to c ross one anoth er I n o rdi n a ry rug weaving

.

one t h r ea d e nt e rs ea c h d ent . To d o th i s th e r ee d i s h u ng
j u s t i n fron t of th e h a rn ess as sho wn i n F ig 3 4 B y m ea ns
,
. .

of a r eed hook th e th r ea ds ar e dr awn th r ough th e d en ts

i n th ei r r egul a r ord e r , c a r e bein g t a k e n to u se ea c h d en t .

Fi g . 35
—
Ree d H ook s
I f a s elv a ge is d es i r ed two th r ea ds a t one ti m e ar e dr awn
th rough t he fi r st fou r a nd the l a s t fo u r d en ts of the r eed .
p ush ed i n to th e d en t f rom a bov e, a n d the th r ea d may be
Th e r ee d i s of t en l onge r t h a n th e c lo th t o b e wov e n i s
‘
-
pl a c e d on th e r eed i n suc h a positi on as t o be d r wn a

wid e ; wh e n th is i s tru e, pl a n to h a v e th e th r ea ds occ upy th rough wh en the h ook is p u l l ed f rom belo w Af ter a .

th e c en t er p a rt of th e r eed , l ea v ing th e su rpl u s a t ea c h end .

n umb e r of th r ea d s h as b een e n t e red th ey a r e ti ed int o a
I f a si ngl e d en t sh oul d b e om i tt e d th e weav e c a n no t b e bu nch Th is i s don e p a rti al ly for s a f ety , as the r eed may
.

p erf ec t Th e r eed h oo k may b e m a d e of a pi ec e of thi n

. sl i p i n som e way from i ts p osi tion a nd drop to th e fl oor ,
wood , as sh o wn i n F ig 3 5 . . I n th r ea din g th e r ee d th e th u s c a u sing th e th rea ds to sl ip from th e d ents .

hook i s p ush e d th rough th e d en ts from b el o w, ca tc h ing th e Pl acin g t h e Ree d

th r ea d a nd dr awin g i t do wn wa rd th rou gh th e op eni ng I ; . F or c onv eni en c e i n th r ea d in g, th e h a rn ess and r ee d
th e woo d en h ook a s sho wn i n Fig 3 5 i s u s ed , i t may b e
. ar e h u ng cl os e to th e wa rp b ea m , as i n t h i s p osi t ion th e
,
 THREAD IN G THE L O OM 29

Fi g . 3 6— L oom R ea d y Ty in g

wea v e r ca n sit in a com fort abl e posi tio n wh i l e doi n g th e r eed pu t in i ts p rop e r pl a c e i n th e b a t te n , as sho wn in
th r ea din g .
F ig 3 6
. .

Th e th rea ding h a vin g b ee n compl e t e d th e h a rn ess a nd Th e n ow r ea dy

l oom i s to be “
ti d
e up .
”
Th l S p r oc ess
r eed ar e brou gh t for wa rd The b a t te n i s h u ng a nd th e
.
i s c al l ed “ ga ti n g th e l oom s
30 F O O TP O
-
WER L O OM WEAV IN G
T yin g t h e L oo m

B efo r e b egi n n i ng the ty i n g u p p roc ess i t i s of gr ea t

’

import a nc e th a t th e wea v e r und er sta n d s ome si mp l e way

i
'

of u sin g a sl ipk no t, a s th e p roc ess of tying u p r eq u i r e s a

'

gr ea t d ea l of a dj u s ti ng I t i s u su al to tie u p wi th d oubl e
.

cords , a s th es e a l way s t erm in a t e ei th e r in a l oop o r two .

Fig . 38 —
rst Step
Fi M k i ng L p
a oo S l i p K not

i
F g . 89 —
L o p C om p l eted
o

e nd s , both of whi c h a r e n ecess a ry fo r th e a dj u st a bl e sl ip

k no t Th e l oop for th e sl i pk not i s m a d e a t th e en d of th e
.

loop ed cord as s h o wn a t A F ig 3 7 Th e fi nger a nd th umb

, ,
. .

r eac h u p a d gr a sp t e do ubl e cord at

n h “
A ”
Fig 3 8 Th e ,
. .

d o ub l e c ord i s now d ra wn th rough t h e op eni ng m a rk ed

as sh o wn i n F ig 3 9
”
“
B ,
Th rough th e l o op th us m a d e
. .

th e two ends of th e c ord a r e p a ss e d Fig 4 0 F ig 3 7 A , ,

. . .
,

B C a nd D sho w i n th e su cc essiv e st ep s th e way t h e kn ot

_ ,

i s mad e .

A sho ws simp ly t h e l oo p a n d ends ;

F ig . 37 —
Meth od
'

ot T y in g Sl i p Knot B sh o ws th e ends dr awn th rough th e l oo p .

 T Y IN G THE L O OM

C sh o ws th e e nds d r a wn th rough th e 10 0 1) a nd a
si ngl e k no t ti e d wi th th em.

D sh o ws th e si n gl e k no t ti e d a nd d r a wn d o wn to th e

By u si ng th e abo ve m e th od for tyi ng th e co rd s may

,

be sh o rt en e d o r l en gth e n ed as th e c a s e ma y b e B y liu ll ing

,
.

th e two ends of th e sin gl e knot th e l a t t e r i s d r a wn c l os e

40—
T wo E nds C ord Pl ace d Loop
to th e l oo p I t wi l l b e fou nd th a t th e kno t wi l l no t giv e
.

way no m a tt e r w h a t th e wei gh t of th e pu l l m a y b e .If ro ll e r j u s t a bov e a l l o wi n g o n e h o rs e t o h a n g to o ne sid e

,
th e cord i s to b e l en gth en e d th e kno t i s l oos en e d a n d th e a n d o ne t o t h e o th e r . T wo o th e r h eddl e h o rs es a r e t i ed
cord is a dj u st e d .
a n d h un g i n th e s a m e way a t th e oth e r en d of t h e ro ll e r .

Th e h a rn ess wh ic h i s m a d e u p of the h e ddl es a nd

,
F ig 2 0 sh o ws h e dd l e sticks h u n g i n th e fi n ish ed loom
. .

h ed dl e s tick s h a ngs j u s t b eh ind th e he a t e r a n d i s su s

,
p end e d by ty i ng the h ed dl e stick s t o t h e h eddl e h ors es
Th e h ed dl e h o rs es a r e ti e d o ne to on e end of a pi ec e
C o r d s a r e ti e d f ro m th e end s of th e h edd l e h o rs es to
. t h e to p h eddl e s ti c ks .F ro m th e c en t e r o f ea ch l o we r
h eddl e stic k a l oop of N o 1 2 bl ock in g co rd i s ti ed Th e
. .

o f No 1 6 bl ocki ng co rd a n d o n e t o th e oth e r
. F ig 4 1 is th e
. . e nd s of t h e c o rd ex t e n din g from th e t r ea dl es sl ip i n to th e

d r a wing o f a h e dd l e h o rs e Th e rop e i s t h ro wn ov e r th e
. l oop ex t en d in g from t h e h edd l e s tick s , a s sh o wn i n Fig
,
.

Fi g . 41 —
Hcddl e H ors es
32 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEA V IN G
t r ea d l e a nd a pply i ng th e p r essu r e to th e oth e r t r ea dl e the
oth e r h a lf of th e th r ea ds i s d r awn do wn wa rd .

The C lo th B eam
Th e nds d ra wn th r ough th e r eed a r e no w h a nging
e

l oos ely or ti ed i n b u nch es i n th e fron t of th e r eed Th ese .

e nds m ust i n som e way b e c on n e c t ed wi th th e c l oth b a m

.
e

( Fig . H ol es h a v e b ee n bor e d th r o ugh th e c l oth b ea m .

T h rough th es e h ol e s th e N o 1 2 bl ock ing c ord is dr awn
. .

Fi g . 43 —
M eth o d Prep ar ing C l oth B eam

B egi nni n g a t t h e righ t of th e c loth b ea m o ne

en d of t h e c ord th rough th e fi r s t op ening Th e oth e r end .

i s ti ed t o the end of a rod , wh ich i s a s long as th e r ee d .

( Th es e rods wer e m ention ed ea rl i e r i n th e p roc ess of

wa rp ing . O ne wa s u s ed i n f a st en i ng th e wa rp t o th e

Fi g . 42 —
M th
e od T y in g H ed dl e Sti ck s to T rea dl es b ea m )
.

Th e co rd i s no w th r ea d ed th rough th e n ex t hol e wh ic h ,

42 . Wh en p r es su r e ( in th is c as e th e foo t ) isa ppl i ed to a i s N o 2 i n th e cl oth b ea m , a nd th en th rough h ol e No 3

.
. .

tr ea dl e th e p a r t of th e h a rn ess t i ed to t h a t p a rtic ul a r A l ong l oop i s l eft b e t ween N o 2 a nd N o 3 a nd th e

.
. .

tr ea dl e d r a ws th e th r ea d s do wn wa rd U pon r el ea sing thi s

.
rod i s p u s h e d th rou gh it Th e cord i s n o w th r ea d ed
.
34 FOO T P O
-
WER L O O M WEAVIN G
s imply a p i ec e of q u a r te r i nc h b a ss popl a r o r p in e, c u t
-
, ,

as sh o wn i n F ig 4 7 . I f fi ner m a t eri al s su ch a s m erc eriz e d

.

cotton s a r e u s ed a sh u t tl e sim il a r to th e o ne sh o wn i n
,

Fig 4 6 i s u s ed
. .

T h e S m a ll S h u ttl e
Th e b egi nn e r wi l l no doub t 11 se pr in cipall y th e c o a rs
'
‘

, ,

er m a t eri a l s fo r th e woof a n d wi l l , t h e r efor e, u se t h e

,
.

sh u ttl e a s sh own i n F ig 4 6 an d F ig 4 6 a
. . .

Th e sh uttl e sh o wn i n F ig 4 6 a i s s o c on st ruc te d a s to
.

a dm i t of a p i ec e of 1 0 o r 1 2 ga u g e wir e Th is w
-
i r e ex t ends .

l ength wi s e a c ross th e i n sid e of t h e op en ing th e en ds b e ing ,

forc ed i nt o two l i ttl e h ol es , one i n ea c h en d of t h e Op en in g .

sm a l l spr ing i s c onc ea l e d

'

on e of th e h ol e s ,

Fi g . . 46 —
S m a 11 S h uttl e Fi g . 47 —
S h u ttl e Sti ck

wi r e is pu t i n pl a c e v ery m uc h a bo bbi n is pl a c ed i nto

th e sh u ttl e of a s ewing m a chi n e . F ig 4 7
. sh o ws a sh u ttl e
s tick .

F ig . 45 —
Th e S h ed
 TI I E SMALL S H UT TLE
—

~ g~
1— « -
1

5x 1 on
. n u.

Fi g . 4 6a —
Work ing Dra wi ng of S mal l S h uttl e

Bob b i n Wind e r
F ig 4 8 sh o ws a bobbi n wi nd e r e x t en si vel y u s e d i n
.

N o r way a nd S wed en S m a l l wood en spool s a r e sl ipp ed

.

on to t h e sh a ft of th e wi nd e r , o r a pi e c e of p a p e r m ay b e
tig h tly wr a pp ed a rou n d th e sh a ft The end o f the th r ea d
.

t o b e wou nd i s c a u gh t i n the wr a pp in g of th e p a p er B y .

m ea n s of th e sm a l l c r a n k th e wh ee l i s tu rn e d a nd th e
th r ea d i s wou n d o n th e spoo l o r p a p e r Th e bo bbi n i s .

m ad e i n th i s way I f th e bobbi n wind e r a s sh o wn a bov e

.

i s no t a v a i l a bl e a spinn i n g wh eel m ay be e q u i pp e d to ( l o
,

Fi g . 4 9— S p i nni n g Wh ee l B ob b i n Wind r
e

th e wo r k . A pl u g withx t en s ion m ay b e fo rc ed i n to
an e

t h e spi ndl e a s sh o wn i n F ig 4 9
,
Th e spool o r th e p a p e r
. .

m ay be w u pp e d a rou n d th is ex t en sion a nd th e wh eel may

‘

h e t u rn ed j us t a s wh e n spi nni n g .

T h e T em pl e

As th e wea vi ng c on tin u e s , i t wi l l b e fo un d th a t th e r e
is a t end e ncy i n t h e f a bric to “ d r a w i n na rro we r th a n
48 —
B obbin Wi nd r
e th e e nt e rin g o f th e wa rp i n th e r eed t en thi s
“
.d r a wi ng
36 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM HEA VZ N G
’

F ig . 50 —
Work i ng Dra wing T em ple

METALBAND

CO MMO N TEN PENNY NAI L

TO B E US ED AS PI N

C l osed Op
'

F ig . 51 —
p
T em 1e F ig . 52 —
p
T em 1e e n ed
 THE TEMPLE 37

ih ” b ecom e s n otic eabl e i t may b e co rr ec te d by u s ing th e

,

t empl e .

Th e t empl e i s v er y s im pl e i n i ts c onstr u ction F ig 50 . .

sho ws th e work ing d r awi ng At th e bro a d en ds of ea c h

.

of t h e p a rts , o r 1 6 ga u ge b r a ds a r e d riv en i n a n d th e
-

h ea ds a r e fi l ed off Fo r h ea vi e r m ate ri a l th e b r a d s sho u l d

.
,

b e of 1 2 o r 1 4 gau ge
-
.

Th e p a rts wh en j oi n ed togeth er a r e for th e p u rpos e

of h old ing o u t th e edges of th e m a t eri a l b e ing wov en to th e ,

r eq u ired wid th Th e m ea n s of a dj u stin g th e l ength of th e

.

t em pl e a r e sh o wn i n F ig 5 1 a nd Fig 5 2 Th e p a rts ar e
. .
‘

h el d tog eth er by a wi r e n a i l o r wood en p in wh ic h i s forc ed ,

i n to th e h ol es bor ed th r n th e sid es of th e p a rts .

Th e p i n i s fi r st i ns er t e d a nd t h e t empl e pl a c ed o n th e
c l oth a sh or t d ist a nc e f rom th e reed wi th th e fil ed poin ts
,

of th e b r ad s c a tch in g th e edges of the m a t eri al , a s sho wn

i n F ig 5 2 Wh e n t h e templ e is p r es s e d do wn i n t h is posi
. .

ti on , i t wi l l forc e o u t th e edge s of th e cl oth Th e sm a l l .

m eta l b a n d wh ic h fi ts cl o s ely , i s m ov ed a l ong so it h ol ds

-

th e t wo p a rts toge th e r Aft er we a ving from fou r to si x

.

i nch es , th e t em pl e i s m ov e d so i t a g a i n is a fe w i nc h es f rom
th e r ee d
m
.

To m ov e, sl ip th e et a l b a n d so t he p a r ts m a y s wi n g
on th e pi n a nd p roc eed as abov e d es c rib ed .

T h e Ree l
A g rea t m a ny of th e d iff e r e n t th r ea d s u s e d i n weav
i ng m u s t be p u rch a s ed i n sk e ins Th is f a c t m a k es th e r eel
.

the sk ei n s m ay c on
’

al mos t in di sp en s abl e i n o rd e r th a t
,

venien tly b e m a d e i nto bobbi ns .

Fi g . 537 —
P air of R eel s
38 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

F ig
'

. 54 —
Wor k in-g Dra wi ng of R eel
 THE REEL OR S WI FT

Fig 53 . sh o ws a pa i r of r eel s m oun t e d o n a s t a nd i n

,

suc h a m a nn er th a t th e d ist a n c e b e t wee n t h em ca n b e r eg

u l a ted . F ig 54 sh o ws th e wo rkin g d r a win g o f a p a i r of
.

r eel s I t wil l b e obs erv ed th a t th e u p ri gh t of t h e st a nd

.

h as a sl o t cu t i n i t fo r th e grea t e r p a rt of i ts l e n g th Th e
.

r eel s r evol v e o n el onga t e d a xl e s a n d m ay be fi xed i n the

,

sl o t a t a ny h eigh t , by m ea n s o f a sc r e w a n d col l a r Th i s
.

'

m a k es i t p ossibl e to a dj u s t th e m to ( l ifi e r cn t siz ed sk ei ns
-
.

F ig . sh o ws a no t h e r k in d of r ee l w
55 h i c h m ay b e
f a st en e d to a t a bl e I t op en s l ik e a n u mbr el l a a nd m ay
.

b e a dj u st e d to s k ei ns of v a riou s si z es T h e sm a l l sk ei n
.

a l lo ws on ly a p a rti a l O p e ni ng o f th e r ee l Th e sk ei n i s
.

pl a c e d ov e r th e r ee l wh i l e c l os e d T h e r ee l a bov e men
.

tioned i s of t e n c a l l ed a s wi ft.

Fi g . 55— A R l
ee or S wi ft
 '
Ra g Ru g s as possibl e th e fou nd a tion str ip j u s t b ea t en m ay a g a i n b e
I n weavi ng r ag rugs th e l oo m m u s t b e th r ea d ed wi th p ush ed o u t i nto th e sh e d so th a t i t may ea sily b e wr app e d
a fou r ply c a rp e t wa rp , t we lv e th r ea d s to th e i nch
-
. Th i s .
wi th th e col or u s ed i n th e d esi gn .

c a l l s for a nu mb e r 1 2 r eed S i nc e th e p roc ess of p r ep a ri n g

.
A ft e r t h e c ol o r ed strip s h a v e b een wr a pp ed a ro un d
th e l oo m h a s a l r ea dy b eend esc rib ed i n det a il th e wea v ,
th e fou nd at ,
r th e ea te r i s d ra wn fo r wa rd a n d
h
in g m ay a t onc e b egi n p r ess es th e to ion col o r wi th th e strip i n th e d esign
w
.
4

F igu r es 5 6 a n d 57 sh o wh a t may be don e wi t h r a gs .

i n to pl a c e .

Th e d esi gn i s k ep t i n s tr a i gh t a n d u nbrok en l in es F igs Thi s p roc ess i s a most int er es tin g way of i ntrod uc ing
w
. .

58 a nd 5 9 sh o w h a t m ay b e don e by l a y i ng s tr a i gh t p i ec es col or wh en th e c o a rs e r m a t eri a l s ar e u s ed .

of c l ot h to c ov e r th e c ol o r u s ed i n t h e bo dy p a rt I n th is .
B efo r e b egi n ni ng to d esi g n fo r l oo m wo rk , i t i s b et
,

c a s e th e d esign i s a l so k ep t i n str a igh t u nb rok e n l i n es

,
.
ter to op e r a t e th e l oo m a n d k no w j us t a l i t tl e of i ts pos

Th e m a t eri a l u s ed i n th e l igh t Col o r e d ru gs i s u nbl each ed s ibil ities .XVh en th i s p l a n i s p u rsu ed th e d esi g n s m a d e a r e
m u sl i n , wh il e th e co lor e d bord ers a r e of bl u e o u ti ng fl an u s a bl e a s th e op er a tor k no ws wh a t i s possibl e a nd wi l l
,

nel . Th e d a rk ru g i s of D u tc h bl u e c a l i co a n d u nbl ea c h ed d esi gn a c cord in gly .

Pl a ids

I n trodu cin g C olor as Sh o wn in Fi g u r es 58 an d 59 F igu r e 6 0 sho ws a s eri es of si mpl e yet eif ective pl a ids
Th ecl ot h u s ed fo r th e fou n d a tio n i s d ra wn t hrough wh i c h may b e wov en on a t wo h a rn ess l oom
-
. I n r eel ing
th e sh ed a nd b ea t e n T h e heatin g p r ess es th e stri p of c lo th th e wa rp for pl a i ds , a c ert a i n nu mb e r of th r ea ds of ea ch
c ol o r a r e r ee l e d a ccording to th e d esi r ed pl a i d Wh en th e
.

togeth er Witho u t c rossi ng th e th r ea ds dr aw i n t h e short

.
,
.

p i ec es to b e u s ed for th e d esi gn a nd wr a p th em a ro u nd r eel i ng i s c om pl e t e d a n d th e 11 a i p i s pl a c ed o n t h e 11 a r p

th e col or u s ed for t h e fou nd a t ion To m a k e th i s a s ea sy
.
b ea 111 it 11 11] b e fo u n d t h a t th e wa rp i s i n b a n ds of col or
, _
.
 u "
WER L O OM l VEAVI N G
‘

42 1 FO O T P O - f

If th e a rti c l e to b e wov e n
i s to be a bou t 2 2 inc h e s wid e
a nd t h er e a r e to b e 2 0 th r ea ds to th e i nc h , i t wi l l r eq ui r e
‘

4 56 th r ea ds t o b e r ee l e d i n
’ '

c l ud in g 2 4 th r ea ds fo r th e
,

s el v a ge s v fou r th r ea d s a r e r ee l ed a t a tim e i t wil l r e

'

. .
,

q ui r e gro up s of fou r th r ea ds t o m ak e th e r eq u ir e d
n u mb er T h e l e ngth d ep e n ds upon th e wea v e r
. .

H a vi ng pl a c e d th e h eddl es 0 11 th e h eddl e st icks a nd

th e wa rp o n th e b ea m th e work e r i s r ea dy to d o t he
'

th r ea din g S ea t e d as sho wn in F ig 3 2 wi th th e p a t t ern

. .
,

a s sh o wn i n F ig 6 1 a t h a nd th e wo rk of th r ea di ng i s
.
,

b egu n .

I t m u s t b e r e m em b er ed th a t th e s ets of h eddl es a r e
n umb e r ed from th e f ron t to th e b a c k Th a t is th e h e ddl e .
,

sti ck s j u s t i n f ron t of th e wor k e r a r e n u mb er 1 th e n ex t ,

n u mb e r 2 th e n ex t nu mb e r 3 a n d th e f a rth est n umb e r

, ,

Th e r o w of sq u a r es i n th e p a t te rn m a rk ed N o 1 i n dic at es .

t h a t al l th e th r ead s i n t hi s r ow m u s t b e th r ea d e d in th ei r
ord e r th rou gh th e h eddl es 0 11 h ed dl e s ticks N o 1 Th e
‘

. .

sq u a re s i n th e p a tte rn in r ow N o 2 i ndic a t e t h a t th es e
“

t h r ea ds a r e th r ea d ed i n th ei r ord e r th rou gh th e h eddl es on

t h e s econ d p a i r of h eddl e sticks Th r ee a nd fou r fol lo w i n .

th e s a m e m a nn e r
B eg innin g asTh re ad
B egin n ing a t th e righ t of th e p a tt ern th e fi r s t th r ea d ,

of th e s el v a ge i s i ndic a t e d by a d a rk sq u a r e i n th e fou r th
r ow . Thi s m ea ns th a t th e fi r s t th r ea d p a ss es th ro ugh t h e
ey e of th e fi r s t h eddl e o n t h e b a ck o r fou rth r ow of h e ddl e s .

T hi s h e dd l e th r ea d ed it i s pu sh ed a lon g a nd t h e ne x t
'

th r ea d is t a k e n c a r e o i Th e n ex t th r ea d i s on th e s e c ond
.

F ig . 60 —
Pl a i d s
 THREADI N G A PATTERN
’
.
43

F ig . 61 —
M0 nk s ’
B elt . Dra f t of P attern

ro w a nd i s p a ss ed th rou gh th e eye of th e fi r s t h e ddl e on th e fo r th e t wo s el v a ges , 4 32 th r ea d s r em a i n I f i t r eq ui r es

.

s econd p a i r of h edd l e stic ks Thi s h ed dl e i s now p ush ed

. 3 6 th r ea ds to t h re a d th e p a tt ern o nc e, 4 3 2 th r ea d s wil l
a l ong a nd the th ird th rea d i s c a r ed fo r T h e th i rd th r ea d
. r ep ea t th e p a tt e rn t wel v e tim e s .

p a ss e s th ro ugh t he fi r s t h ed dl e 0 11 th e t h i rd p a i r of h edd le T h e fi r s t th r ea d of th e p a tt e rn a pp ea rs o n th e fo u rth

stick s a nd i s pu sh ed al on g o r b a c k r ow of h edd l e s ; th e s e c on d th r ea d i s o n th e thi rd
'

. Th e fo u rt h th r ea d p a ss es
th rou gh th e eye of t h e fi r s t h edd l e 0 11 th e fi r s t p a i r of r o w, e tc C on ti nu e u nt i l ea c h th r ea d i nd ic a t e d by th e
.
-

h eddl e s tic ks a nd is pu sh ed a l ong T he fifth th re a d p a ss es

. d a rk sq u a r es i s th r ea d ed
’ ‘

.
W
h en th is i s d on e t he p a tt e rn
,

th rough th e eye of th e s econ d h eddl e on th e fou rth r ow . h a s bee n r ep ea t e d onc e G o b a c k to th e b e ginn i n g wh i c h i s

.
,

T hi s i s con ti n u ed u n ti l th e p a rt of t h e p a tt e rn m a rk ed th e fi r s t th r ea d o n th e fou rth r o w a ft e r th e s el v a ge In .

s el v a g e is com pl et e d Th e s e l v a g e is th r ea d ed b u t o nc e a t th i s way th r ea d t h e p a tt e rn t welv e ti m e s Wh en thi s i s

'

. .
,

th e b e gi nni n g a nd a t th e en d u nl es s oth e r wis e i nd ic a t ed

, . don e th er e a r e stil l t wel y e th r ea ds l ef t fo r t he s e lv a g e,
,

Th e th r ea d in g o f th e r ea l p a t te rn b egin s a ft e r t h e wh i c h i s th r ea d e d th e s a m e a s th e s e l v a g e a t th e righ t or
s el v a g e h a s b ee n th r ead e d U po n i nv e stiga tion it wi l l b e
. .
b egi n n ing .

fou nd th a t 3 6 th r ea ds m a k e o ne r ep ea t of th e p a tt ern ; F ig 6 2 sh o ws a noth e r way o f ex pr essi n g th e p a tte rn

.

F ig 6 1
. . I f th e r e a r e 4 5 6 th r ea d s i n a l l a n d 2 4 a r e us e d sh o wn i n F ig 6 1 Th e r e a r e s ev e r a l oth e r way s of wri ting
. .

S e lv a

Fi g . 62 —
M k B lt
on
'
s e . An oth e r Way of D r a fting P attern
 44 FO O T -
P OWER L O O M WEA V IN G
p att erns , a l l of wh ic h wi ll b e giv en i n ord er th a t th e dr a wn i s 2 8 i nch es l ong , i t i s of th e gr ea t es t import a n c e
weav er m ay u n d erst a nd and m a k e u se of p a tt ern s fo u n d th a t th e fi r s t th r ea d i s d r awn thr ou gh th e d en t th r ee
i n v a riou s book s o n th e subj ec t . i nc h es from th e ri gh t end of th e ree d Aft e r all th e th r ea ds
.

Fig 6 1 ,
. ho wev er , sh o ws th e way p a tt ern s ar e wri tt e n h a v e b een d ra wn th rou gh t h e d ents , th r ee i nc h es a r e l eft a t
i n t ex til e sch ool s .
th e l ef t en d of th e r eed Th e ends now a r e t i ed t o th e rod
.

'

wh ic h l ea d s t o th e c loth b ea m , th e sa m as i n F ig 3 6
i
. .

T h rea din g th e Ree d

Th ethr ds h a ving b ee n d r a wn th rou gh th e h ed dl es

ea
T y in g t h e He ddl e Sti ck s
i n th e ord e r i ndi c a t e d by th e p a tt e rn a r e now r ea dy to b e Fig 2 0
. sh o ws th e position of th e h e ddl e ho rs es T wo .

dr awn th rough th e d en ts of th e r eed A N o 2 0 r eed i s . . h eddl e h ors e s a r e ti e d togeth er with a p i ec e of N o 1 2 bl ock .

h u ng a s sho wn i n F ig 3 4 NVith a r ee d hook , a s sh o wn i ng cord Th e co rd is th ro wn ov er th e r ol l e r o r th e pu l l ey

'
'

. . .

i n Fig 3 5 , th e th r ead s a r e dr awn th rou gh th e r ee d i n th ei r

. a bov e, l ea vi ng on e h edd l e h ors e a t o ne sid e a n d o n e a t

r eg ul a r ord er as b ef or e d esc rib ed . the oth e r , as sh o wn i n F ig 2 0 . .

_ T o m ak e th e s elv a ge, two th r ea ds of th e s e lv a ge a r e Th e upp e r h eddl e sticks a r e t i ed to th e sc rol l l ik e end s -

d r awn th rough ea c h of th e fi r s t si x d ents Th i s u s es th e

. of the h eddl e h ors es , one to each To d o th is t a k e fou r
.

t welv e thr ea d s of th e s el v a g e as sho wn in th e p a tt ern . h ed dl es th e s am e a s wer e u s ed o n th e h eddl e s ticks Th es e .

I f th e n u mb e r 2 0 r eed i s u s ed , ea c h th r ea d of th e a r e l oop e d a l l a t on e tim e ov er o ne en d of t h e fi r s t h eddl e

p a t t ern p a ss es th r o ugh a d en t u n ti l th e s elv age is a ga i n st ic k Th i s i s don e by p l a ci n g one l oop at th e en d o t th e

’

r ea c h ed , wh en t wo th r ea ds p a ss th ro u gh ea c h d e n t h eddl e to one si d e of th e h eddl e stic k a s sh o wn a t A F ig

'

. .
, ,

I f a N o 2 0 r eed c a nno t b e h ad, a N o 1 0 r ee d m ay

. . 63 . Th e oth e r ends of th e h eddl es a r e pl a c ed th rou gh th i s
b e u s ed by pl a c i ng fou r th r ea ds of th e s el v a g e th ro ugh ea c h loop a n d ar e dr awn tightly ov er th e h edd l e stic k Wi th .

d en t of th e s elv a g e an d two th r ea ds of the p a tt e rn th ro ugh th e th umb an d fi nger m a k e a l oo p i n th e oth e r en d of

,

/ ea c h of th e p a tt ern d en ts . th e h eddl es s im i l a r to th e l oop i n F igs 3 8 a nd 3 9 S lip. .

V er y oft en th e r eed h as m a ny m or e d ents th a n i s r e th i s l oop ov er th e sc rol l l ik e end of t he h eddl e ho rs e as

-

qu i r e d fo r th e n umb er of th r ea ds u s ed i n a p a r tic ul a r pat sh own a t B , F ig 6 3 T a k e fou r oth e r h eddl es a n d l oop one

. .

t ern I n s uc h c a s e c a r e m us t b e ta k en t o d r aw th e th r ea ds
. end ov e r th e s econ d h e dd l e stic k fa r e nough from th e e nd

th rough such d ents as wil l bri n g th e wea vin g i n th e c e n t e r so th a t i t i s di r ec tly und e r th e oth e r sc rol l l ik e end of th e -

of th e r eed F or ex am pl e i f th e fi nish ed work i s to b e 2 2

.
, .
s am e h eddl e h ors e, as sh own a t C F ig 6 3 ,
. .

i nch es wid e and th e r eed th ro ugh wh ich th e th r ea d s a r e Wi th th e fi nger and th u mb , m a k e a l oop i n th e oth er
 TY IN G THE HEDD LE S TI CKS

en d of the h eddl es a nd sl ip th i s l oop ov e r th e o th e r end of

th e h eddl e ho rs e, a s sh o wn at D F ig 63 He ddl e s ticks
,
. .

1 and 2 a r e n ow ti ed to t h e one h eddl e h ors e ; see Fig 6 3 . .

T a k e fou r oth e r h ed dl es a nd l oop th em ov er the th i rd

h eddl e stic k th e s a m e dis ta n c e f ro m th e end as th e fi r s t ~was
l oop ed a t E F ig 6 4 Loo p th e oth e r ends of th e h ed dl es
,
. .

ov e r th e sc rol l l ik e end of th e s econd h eddl e h o rs e, as

-

sho wn a t F, F ig 6 4 T h e fou rth h edd l e s tick is t i ed i n

. .

th e s a m e way a nd t h e s a m e dist a nc e f ro m th e end as th e

s econ d one as sh o wn a t G a nd H F ig 6 4 Th is fi n ish es
, ,
. .

th e tyi ng a t one end Tie h eddl e s tick s a t th e o th e r end

.

toth e h edd l e h ors es i n th e s a m e wa y

'

Hcdd l es a r e u s ed to .

tie th e h ed dl e sti ck s t o th e h edd l e h ors e s b ec a u s e th ey a r e

a ll ex a c tly th e s a m e l ength Th i s i s of gr ea t i m port a n c e
. .

T yin g Heddl e S ti ck s t o T readl es

To k eep th e h eddl e stick s ev en a nd a ll to ge th e r t ie ,

th em toge th e r a t ea ch u pp e r end F ro m the c en t e r o f ea c h

.

lo we r h ed dl e s ti ck t ie a l oop of No 1 2 bl oc ki n g c or d as
'

.
,

sho wn a t A F ig 3 7 ,
. .

F rom eac h t rea dl e a l lo w t wo e nds of N o 1 2 bl ock ing .

cord to ex t en d u p wa rd B egi n ni ng a t th e ri gh t t ie th e
.
,

fi r s t t r ea dl e to th e fi r s t l o we r h edd l e s tick ; th e s econ d

.

t r ea dl e to the s ec on d h e ddl e stick : I h th e s a m e way tie

3 and 4 .Thi s n um be rs th e tr ead l es from righ t to l eft 1 ,
2, 3 4 ,
. T he l oom i s now r ea dy fo r work .

Fi g 63 Fi g 64
W
.
.

e av in g th e Pa tt e rn

B e fo r e b eginn in g to wea v e the p a tt ern exp e rim e n t ,

y ng
T i th e H ed dl e Sti ck s
by p r essin g do wn c e rt a i n tr ea d l es P r e ss do wn tr eadl e s 1 .
46 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEAV IN G
an d 2 s a m e ti m e P r ess d o wn 3 a nd 4 P r ess do wn
at th e . . p a tt er n bord e rs wi th as m uc h pl a i n wea ving i n be t wee n
1 a nd 3 by pl a c i ng o n e foot on 1 a n d th e o th e r o n 3 . a s i s d esi r ed
.

P r ess d own 2 a n d 4 I t wil l b e fo u nd th at 1 a nd 2 wh en

.
,
\V h en doing p a t t ern wea ving the th r ea d u s ed i n the
-

p ress ed down , m a k e o ne p a rt of th e p a t te rn, as sh o wn a t A , p a tt ern s h ou l d be a t l ea s t a s h ea vy a s th e wa rp .

F ig 65 F Q ev ery p a tt ern th r ea d th a t i s p l a c ed i n th e wea ving

. . I
Q
pr essi ng do wn tr ea d l e s 3 a nd 4 t h e p art of th e
By ,
th e r e m u st b e wh a t i s c a l l ed a bi nd in g th r ea d or bi nd er .

p a tt e rn s h o wn a t B F ig 6 5 i s m a d e
, .
,
. Th e bi n din g th r ea ds a r e a l wa y s p u t i n wh il e th e f ee t p r ess
T h es e t wo ch a nges a r e a l l t h a t a r e fou n d i n F ig 6 5 . . d o wn tr ea d l es 1 a n d 3 a nd 2 a nd 4 I t wi l l be r em e m
,
.

C, F ig 6 5 i s th e s a m e a s A only t h er e a r e f ewe r th r ea ds
.
, ,
b er ed th a t i t i s th es e two s ets of tr ea dl e s th a t m a k e t he
u s ed in wea vi ng C D F ig 6 5 i s th e s a m e a s B ; a nd E
.
,
'

.
, , pl a i n o r t a bby wea v e .

F ig 65 is the s a m e a s A
.
,
. Let u s suppos e th a t ev e ry th i n g i s r ea dy to b egi n th e
I t wa s foun d th a t wh ent r ea d l e s 1 a n d 3 we r e p r ess ed
_
. a c tu a l wea vi ng . Tr ea dl es 1 a nd 3 a r e p r e ss ed do wn a t
do wn ex ac tly o ne h a l f of th e th r ea ds we r e dr a wn
-
th e s a m e tim e a nd th e s h u ttl e i s p a ss e d f rom th e righ t
Wh en 2 a nd 4 wer e p r ess e d do wn th e oth er h a l f of th e th rough th e sh ed to th e l eft .

th r ea ds wer e d r a wn 7 110 11 1 1 .
Tr ea dl es 2 a nd 4 a re n ex t p ress ed do wn a n d th e sh u t
t l e i s p a ss ed th rough th e sh e d from th e l eft to th e ri gh t
I n t h i s way a s m u c h pl a i n wea vi n g m ay b e don e as i s .

d esi r ed.

I f a ta b l e wu nne r i s to b e m a d e a bou t fi ve inch es of

,

pl a i n wea vi ng i n th e b egi nni ng a r e s u fii eien t b efor e in

tr od u cing th e p a tt e rn .

T o Ma ke t h e
. Bord er as S h o wn in Fig 6 5
.

Wh e n wea vi ng ap a tt e rn th e re\n1 u s t a l wa y s b e a
b ind e r wov en i n ev ery tiin e a p a tt e rn th r ea d i s wov e n I t
P attern Wov en
.

Fi g . 65 —

i s th is bin d e r th a t h ol ds the p a t t e rn th r ea d i n pl a c e I t
“

Any a mo un t of p l a i n wea ving m ay b e don e by pr e ss i s a l way s wel l to h a v e th e bi nd e r of fi n er t h re a d th a n th a t

i ng do wn al t e rn a t ely 1 a nd 3 a t th e s a m e tim e , an d 2 a n d u s ed i n th e pl a i n wea v e o r th a n th a t u s ed i n th e p a tt ern
, ,

4 at th e s a m e tim e . T h is b ei ng tru e , i t is possibl e to pl a c e a s th e p a t t er n th r ea d s m a y b e mor e c l os e ly b ea t en to g eth e r .

 M A KI N G B OR DE R S 47

Th e sh u ttl e c ont a i ni n g th e th rea d to b e u s ed fo r th e

b i nd er is no w a t th e righ t .

T r ea dl es 1 and 2 a r e p r ess ed d o wn a t the s a m e ti m e

a n d a p a tt e rn th r ea d p a ss e d th ro ugh th e sh ed Wh en th is
.

i s b ea t e n i n pl a ee t r ea dl es 1 a nd 3 a r e p r ess ed do wn a nd
g
a bi nd e r th r ea d i s p a ss e d th rou gh th e sh ed . T rea dl e s 1
a n d 2 a r e a g a i n p r ess e d d o wn a n d a p a tt e rn th r ea d p a ss e d

th rou gh th e sh ed Tr ea dl es 2 a nd 4 a r e now p r ess e d do wn

.

a n d a bi nd e r p a ss es th rough th e sh ed . P r es s 1 a nd 2
a ga i n fo r th e p a tt e rn th r ea d a n d 1 a n d 3 fo r t h e bi nd e r .

P re ss 1 a nd 2 a g a i n a nd 2 a n d 4 fo r t he bi nd e r
,
.

Th e wea v er h a s, n o do ubt di scov e r e d by th i s tim e t h a t

,

th e p a tt e rn th r ea d m ay en t e r th e sh ed f rom e ith e r th e righ t

'

or l eft wh il e c a r e m us t b e t a k e n to e n t e r t he bi n d er from
t h e sid e i t sh oul d b e ent e r ed i n ord e r to m a k e the pl a i n
wea v e Wi th th e a m a t e u r i t m igh t b e wel l to gi v e th e fol
.

l o win g d i r ec tio n c on c e rni ng th e wea vin g i n of th e bi nd e r :

\V h e n t h e fi r s t a n d th i rd tr ea d l e s a r e p re ss e d d o wn th e
b ind e r m u st a l way s e nt e r f rom th e righ t a n d wh e n t he
,

s e co nd a nd fou rth t re ad l e s a r e p r e ss ed do wn t he bi n d e r
e nt e rs f rom th e l e ft . Th e b egi nn e r wh en r et u rn ing to th e
wo rk oft en fi nd s i t d ifiieu l t to k no w whi c h tr ea dl es to p ress
do wn fo r the fi r s t bi nd e r th rea d Thi s may b e d ec id e d by
.

th e posi tio nof th e sh u ttl e . I f th e th r ea d from the sh u ttl e

i s to the righ t th en t r ea dl es 1 a nd 3 a r e p r ess e d do wn for
th e bi nd e r . I f th e th r ea d is a t th e l ef t th en 2 a nd ~ 4 ar e
p r es s ed do wn I n oth e r wo rds , wh e n th e ri gh t f oo t p ress e s
.

d o wn o ne of th e ou ts i d e t rea d l es th e sh u ttl e m us t en t e r t h e
sh ed f rom th e righ t sid e a nd wh en th e l e ft foo t p r e ss es

Fi g . 6 6— B ord ers Fi g . 67 —
B rd ers
o
48 FO O T -
P OWER L O OM WEA VIN G '

do wn a n ou tsid e tr ea dl e th e sh u ttl e en t e rs th e sh ed f rom of a l oom At fi r s t th ough t one is v ery l i k e ly to l ook upon

.

th e l ef t sid e Th i s wil l a id th e b egi nn e r i n k eep ing t r a c k

.
/ loom wea v ing as a v e ry m ec h a ni c a l l i n e of work b ec a u s e
of th e bi nd ing th r ea d . of th e f a c t th a t th e l oo m i s th r ead ed for a c e rt a i n p att ern .

S e cond C h an g e in P a tt ern
Th is wo rk m ay be m ad e s o if th e te a ch er c a n n ot see b e
yo nd th e o ne l i ttl e p a tt ern for wh ic h th e l oom i s th r ea d ed
“

s econd ch a ng e i n th e p a tt e rn is s h o wn a t B , F ig
.

Th e .

I f h o wev er th e i n st r u c to r wil l u se t h e ch ec k ed p a p er
65 To weav e i n th e p a tt e rn th r ea ds fo r th is c h a nge , ,

f r eely and h a v e th e p upi l s m ak e as m a ny diff er en t com

.
,

tr ea dl es 3 a nd 4 a r e p r ess ed do wn ea ch t im e Th r ee a nd
hi ma tion s of th e ch a ng es a s sh o wn i n Fig 6 5 as p ossibl e a
.

fou r a r e p r ess ed do wn a n d th e sh u ttl e c on t a ini ng th e pa t ,

.

grea t d ea l of g oo d m ay b e d eriv ed f rom th e st a ndpoi n t of

t ern th r ea d i s th ro wn th rou gh th e sh ed .

d esign a nd c olo r A tt en tion h as a l r ea dy b een c a ll ed to th e

Th e sh u t tl e c on t a i ni ng th ebi n d e r is a t th e r igh t th er e
.

'
,
combi n a ti on s sh o wn i n F igs 6 6 a n d 6 7 Th e s e i n t er es ting
fo r e tr ea dl es 1 a n d 3 a r e p r ess ed do wn Th e s h u ttl e a t
. .

bord ers m ay b e wov e n i nto t a bl e ru nn er bord ers b a gs of

.

th e ri gh t m ea n s th a t th e righ t foot p r essed do wn th e r igh t

,

v a riou s k i nds , p il lo w t ops , cu r ta ins etc

tr ea d l e I f i t h a d b e e n a t th e l e ft th e n 2 a nd 4 wou l d h a v e
.
-
,
,

I n F ig 6 8 i s sho wn a b a g fo r f a ncy work Th e ma

.
,

b een p r ess ed do wn th e l eft foo t p r essi ng do wn th e l eft

. .

,
ter ial fo r th e pl a i n p a rt i s of E c ru Ja p S ix N o 2 0 T wen ty
trea dl e wh ic h i s th e ou ts id e t r ea d le to th e l ef t
. .

th r ea ds to th e in ch wer e u s ed two th r ea ds p a ssi ng th rough

.

0 F ig 6 5 i s th es a m e a s A ; a nd D i s th e s a m e a s B
l ,
. .
, ,
ea c h d en t Th e bo rd e r i s of a N o 5 m erc e riz e d cotton . .

E i s th e s a m e a s A
.

F ig 6 9 sh o ws a k ni ttin g b a g i n wh ic h t me Mon k s
.
’
.

C h ec k ed P ap e r
B el t th r ea di ng i s u s ed Th i s b ag was wov en on th e sa m e
.

Aft e r th e pupil s h a v e work e d ou t th e d esign sh o wn i n l oom a s wa s th e f a ncy work b a g Th e c h a nge i n d esign i s

.

to t h em ch eck e d p a p er a nd h a v e th e m work
Fig (35 , - p a ss d u e to a c h a ng e i n colo rs a nd th e ord e r of tr ea dl ing fo r th e
ou t a s m a ny di ff e r en t eom b ina tions l taken from F ig .
st r i p es The Jap si l k i s th e sa m e
. .

as possibl e .

Wh en one b egin s rea l ly to wo rk th e possib i li ti es be

Wh e n th i s i s don e th e di ff er en t combi n a tion s m ay be
,

gi n t o d awn .

wov e n on t h e l oom
F ig 7 0 sh o ws a p a i r of c u rt a in s wov e n of Egyp ti a n
.

F ig 6 6 a n d F ig 6 7 sh o w a few s uc h combi n a tion s

t win e A n u mb e r 2 0 r eed i s u s ed , o ne th r ea d p a ssi ng
. . .

Ad a pt ation s th rough ea ch ( l en t A N o 3 m erc er iz ed cotton i s u s ed for

. .

th e bord er , wh ic h i s a noth e r a d a pt a tion of th e Monk s

’
Th er e is v e ry l i ttl e v a l u e i n askin g pu pi ls to d esign
i n t ex ti l e s i f t h ey kno w noth i ng a bou t t h e r ea l worki ng B el t Th e bind e r i s Egy ti a n t win e
p
. .
 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEAVI N G
Wh en th r ea ding a ny p a tt ern a l way s b egin a t th e righ t
a nd work to wa rd th e l eft .

Th readin g fo r t h e Ros e P a t h

T h r ea d fi r s t th e s elv age T h e re a r e bu t eigh t th r ea ds

.

i n a si ngl e r ep ea t Of th e p a tt ern Th e m a t eri a l to b e wov en

.

is 2 0 i nc h es wi d e pl u s t h e width of th e sel va g es
'

I f th er e a r e t o b e 2 0 th r ea ds to th e i nch , i t wi l l r e

Fi g . 71 —
R ose P atli . Draf t of P attern

q ui r e 4 00 th r ea ds pl u s s ix t een th r ea ds for th e s elv a g es ,

m a k in g i n al l 4 1 6 th r ea ds .

I f fo u r th r ea ds a r e r eele d a t a tim e, i t wi l l be neces

sa r y to r eel 1 0 4 gro u ps
'

S i nc e 4 00 th r ea ds a r e u s ed for th e p a tt ern a nd th er e
a r e eigh t th r ea ds to ea c h r ep ea t , t h e p a tte rn m ay b e r e

peated 50 ti m es .

Th e s el v a ge i s th r ea d ed th e s a m e fo r th e R os e P a th
a s wa s th r ea d ed for th e Mon k s B el t
- ’
.

Th e fi r st th r ea d of the p a tt ern i s dr a wn th ro ugh th e

“

eye of th e fi r s t h eddl e on th e b a c k r o w .

Th e s eco nd th r ea d go es th rough th e eye of th e fi r st

h eddl e o n th e th i rd h ed dl e stick s .

Th e t h i rd th r ea d p a ss es t h rough th e ey e of th e fi r st
Fi g . 70 — {A P a ir of Wov en C urtai ns h ed dl e o n th e s e con d h edd l e sticks .
 TI [ READ I N G THE PATH PATTERN
'
-

R O SE

Th e fo u1 th th 1 ead p a ss es th l ou gh th e eye of th e fi 1 s t
h eddl e on the fi 1 s t h edd l e s ticks F rom h er e the th 1 ea d 1 n
.
fr

1 u n s b a c k to t he fou 1 th h ed d l e stic ks

Th e eigh th t h 1 ea d of th e p a t t ern p a ss es th i ou h t h e fr

eye o f th e s econ d h edd l e o n t h e f us t h eddl e s ticks Thi s

.

fi nish es one r ep ea t . Al l th e ot h e1 1 epea ts a r e sim p l y a .

r ep eti tion of th e fi r st .

Th e l ef t s el v a ge i s th e s a m e a s th e ri gh t .

I f a n u mb er 2 0 r eed i s u s ed , two th r ea d s of th e s el v a g e
‘

a r e d r a wn th rou gh ea c h of the fi r s t si x d en ts a n d th e n o n e

th r ea d th rou gh ea c h ( l en t u n ti l t h e l ef t s el v a ge i s r ea ch ed ,
wh en two a r e a g a i n d ra wn th ro ugh ea c h of f ou r d e n ts .

I f a n umb e r 1 0 r ee d i s u s ed fou r th r ead s of th e s e l v a ge

a r e d r a wn th rough a d en t a t a tim e a nd th en t wo t h r ea ds

th rou gh ea ch d en t u n til th e l ef t s el v a ge i s r ea ch e d .

Th e u pp e r h eddl e sticks a r e ti ed to th e h edd l e h ors e s

.

th e s a m e as fo r th e Mon k ’s B el t .

Th e lo we r h eddl e s ticks a r e a l s o ti ed to th e tr ea dl es
th e s a m e a s i n th e Monk s B el t
’
.

Weavin g th e P a tt e rn

I t m u st b e r em emb e r ed th a t th e t r ea dl e s a r e a l way s
n u mb e r ed f rom r igh t to l eft B y p r es sin g d o wn tr ea dl es
w
.

1 a nd 3 o ne h a l f th e th i ea d s a i e d r a wn d o n
,
Tr ea dl es
.

2 a nd 4 ( h a w do wn th e o th e1 h a l f .

Wi th th e sh u t tl es conta in inw b oth the pa ttei n th 1 ea d

a nd th e bi nd e r a t th e 1 ig h t p r e ss do “ 11 t i ea d l es 1 a nd 2
, .

a n d p a ss th e p a tt ern th r ea d th rough th e sh e d .

P r ess d o wn t r ea dl es 1 a nd 3 a n d th rou gh th e sh ed
.

F ig . 72 —
B ord ers F ig . 73 —
B ord ers
52 F OO T P O -
WER L O OM
'
WEA VIN G

p a ss th e bi nd er P r ess 1 a n
. d 2 do wn a ga i n a nd th rough
th e sh ed p a ss th e p a tt ern th r ea d .

P r ess do wn 2 a nd 4 a nd p a ss th e bi n d er th rough th e

To p r ess do wn th e trea dl es i n th e fol lo wing o rd er

1 a nd 2 2 a nd 3 1 an d
'

4
1 and 3 Bi n de r 2 a nd 4 B i nd e r 1 a nd 3 B in d e r
1 and 2 3 and 4 1 a nd 4
B ah d 4 B i nd e r 11 a nd 3 B i nd e r 2 a nd 4 B i nd er
2 a nd 3 3 a nd 4
1 a nd 3 B i nd er 2 a nd 4 B i nd er
Wh en th e abo ye h as
b een com pl et ed a l l th e c h a nges
possibl e i n thi s th r ea di ng a r e sho wn .

O 11 rul ed p a p er h a v e th e p up il s m a k e a s m a ny com
'

bin a tion s of th e a bov e ch a nges a s possibl e .

F i gur es 7 2 a nd 7 3 sh o w a few of th e combi n a tion s

wov e n i nt o bord e rs .

T h e R os e P a th i s ful l o f i n t e r e sting c ombi n a tion s

wh ic h may b e u s ed i n bord ers for c u rt a in s b a gs t a bl e ru n , ,

n e rs a n d pi l lo w tops .

Fin e r T h reads U s ed for W a rp

I t i s n ot n ec ess a ry to confi n e th e wa rp u s e d to th e
o rdin a ry fo u r ply c a rp e t wa rp I t m u s t b e r em emb e red ,
-
.

ho wev er th a t th e fi n er th e wa rp th e mo r e th r ea ds th e r e
,

{m us t b e to th e i nch .

F or xt r a fi ne work th e m erc e riz ed c o tton m ay be

e

u s ed T hi s i s obt a i n abl e i n v a riou s siz es N u mb ers 3 a nd

. .

5 a r e mos t c om mon ly u s ed Ja p sil k N o 2 0 m a k es a v e ry

. .

Fi g .
—
T ie-u p, U si n
 l l EAVI N G
'

R O SE PATH PATTERN 53

g ood wa rp fo r fi ner a rticl es G l o si l k i s a l so good To

. . th e
on e i nt er es t ed th er e i s an u nl im i t ed v a ri e ty to b e ha d .

T h e Lam bs

I n th e p a tt ern wea vi n g u p to th i s tim e th e loom h a s

b een t i ed up i n s u c h a way th a t i t h as b een n e c ess a ry to u se
b o th f ee t i n p r essing do wn th e t r ea dl es to b ring abo u t th e
1
d esi r ed ch a n ges i n th e p a tt e rn .

F ig 7 4 sho ws th e d r a wing bf su c h p a rts of th e 10 0 111 as

.

ar e c onc e rn ed in pa tter n m a kin g A t A F ig 7 4 a r e

'

.
,
.
,

sho wn t h e h eddl e stic ks wi th ou t th e h eddl es .

At B ar e sho wn th e l a mbs Th e l a mbs a r e ne w a n d

.

n o r ef er enc e u p to thi s t im e h a s b ee n m a d e to th cnn C ,

F ig 7 4 , i l l us tra t es si x t r ea dl es in st ea d of fou r as sh o wn
.

a nd d esc rib e d i n p r eviou s d r a wi ngs .

Th e wo rki n g d r awi ng o f th e 10 0 111 wi l l sho w the l a mbs

h el d i n p l a c e a t one end by b ra c k ets sc rewed to th e i n n er
righ t sid e of th e 10 0 111 a t B F i gs 7 4 a nd 2 0 B y th e u se
,
. .

o f th e l a mbs t h e 10 0 11 1 may b e so t i ed u p th a t o ne foo t wil l

,

p r ess d o wn th e d esir ed n u mb e r of h eddl e s ticks a t o ne ti m e .

Th e ty in g of th e u pp e r h edd l e stick s to th e h e ddl e

hors e s i s the s a m e a s sh o wn a t A a nd a s p r eviou s l y d e

Ou x am in a tion of B i t wil l b e fo u nd th a t i n st ea d of
e

th e t r ea dl e s b e in g ti ed d i r ec tly to th e lo we r h eddl e s tick s i t ,

is th e l a mb s wh i c h a r e t i e d one to ea ch l o wer h ed dl e sti ck

,
.

Th i s ty i n g of th e l a mbs i s don e ex a c tly th e s a m e as i f

th e t r ea dl e wer e b eing ti ed .

B , F ig 7 4 sh o ws h ol es bor ed i n th e l a mbs
.
,
.

I
3

Fi g . 75 —
C urta in Bord er
. Ada p tati on f rom R ose P ath
54 FO O T -
PO W
ER L O OM WEA V IN G
Wh en th e l a mbs a re t i ed to th e l o wer h edd l e s ticks , a t dl es 2 a nd 3 a r e t o be d r awn do wn th e n l a mbs ,
2 and 3 ar e

t en tio n wil l be giv en to th e tr ea dl es ; Th er e ar e si x tr ea dl es ti ed to t r ea dl e N o 2 as a bov e d e sc rib ed

. .

i n al l
.
Th i s i s c onti nu ed u n til al l t r ea d l es h a v e b een ti ed to
Th e two c en t er t r ea dl es a r e u s ed i n d rawi ng do wn th e d r a w do wn t h e righ t h edd l es Th e h edd l e s doi ng th e pl ai n
.

h eddl es th a t wil l d o th e p l a i n wea v ing Th e o th e r fou r ,

.

wea vin g a r e ti e d to th e two c ent er t r ea dl es Th e k no t u s ed .

t wo a t eac h sid e of t h e c en t e r a r e u s e d to m a k e th e p a tt ern

i n th e ty in g h as b een ful ly d esc rib ed in F igs 3 7 3 9 a nd
.
,
.
,
T h es e a r e nu mb er ( l from ri gh t t o l e f t 1 , 2 S kip th e t wo
40
.
,
.

c ent er on es a n d n u mb er th e l a s t t wo, 3 a n d 4 .

Fig 75 sh ows
d a p t a tion of th e R os e P a th to a
an a
I f th e fi r s t ch a nge i n th e p a tt ern i nd ic a t es th a t h eddl e
.

bo rd e r wh ich may b e u s ed i n c u rt a ins A n umb e r 9 ree d

stick s 1 a nd 4 a r e to b e dr a wn do wn th e n th e l a mbs 1 a nd
.

,
i s u s ed ; one t h rea d t o ea c h d en t Th e woof an d wa rp a r e
4 a r e ti e d to th e fi r s t t rea dl e as sh o wn i n F ig 6 8
,
. Wh en
.
.

t r ea d l e No 1 i s p r ess e d do wn i t d r a ws do wn l a m bs 1 a nd
.
of th e s a m e m a t e ri al C a r e i s t a k en no t to bea t th e woof
.

4. S i nc e l a m bs 1 a n d 4 a r e ti ed t o the l o we r h edd l e sticks t oo h a rd Th i s m a t eri a l r es embl es a c o a rs e sc rim

. A .

1 a nd 4 , th e p r essu r e m u st dr a w do wn th e h eddl es .
nu mb e r 3 m erc eri z ed co tton i s u s e d i n th e bo rd e r a n d a
I f th e n e x t ch a ng e i n th e p a tt ern i n dic a t es th a t h ed 2 -
ply th r ea d i s u s ed for th e b ind er .
 CH AP T E R 1 11

Colo nia l P a tter ns

[iMa ny of th e p a tt e rn s u s ed by a m a t e u r wea v ers of to 78 sh o ws th e u pp e r o r righ t sid e a nd 7 9 sh ows th e u nd er

da y a r e s imply th e ol d C ol on i a l p a tt e rn s wh i ch h a v e b een sid e of th e fi nish ed wea vi ng “ ”
Th e B ig D i a m on d i s th e
h a nd ed do wn f rom one g en e r a tion to a no th e r . p a rt ic ul a r n am e of th is p a t t ern .

I t i s d ifficu l t to kno w j u s t wh e r e th ey fi r s t o rigin a t ed

.
Th e fol l o win g i s a d e t a i l ed d esc rip ti o n of th e p a t tern °

Th e n a m es oft en sugges t th e c ou n try from wh ic h t h e F i rs t : I n th r ea din g a p a tt e rn a l way s be gi n to r ea d

ori gi n a l p a t t ern m i gh t h a v e com e S uc h n a m e s a s th e O l iv e
. a t th e ri gh t . Wh en th e fi r s t p a r t i s fi nis h ed b egi n a t th e
.

Lea f a nd Bon a p a rt e s Ma rc h m ay h a v e c om e f rom F ra nc e ;

’
righ t of th e s ec ond , etc .

S ec o nd : Th e p a t t ern b egi ns wi th th e fi rst th r ea d a ft e r

’
t h e Q u een s D eligh t a n d th e G ov ernor s Ga rd en m ay h av e
’

com e f rom E ngl a nd ; wh i l e th e Wh ig R os e m ay h a v e orig th e righ t s elv a ge and e nds wi th th e l a s t th r ea d j u s t b efor e

ina te d i n ou r c oun t ry a s l a t e a s th e tim e wh e n th e Whi g t h e l e f t s el v a g e.

P a rty sp ru ng i n to e x ist e nc e . O ne o f th e i n t er es tin g fea Th ird : F in d th e n u mb e r o f th r ea d s to m a k e o ne r e

t u r es of th i s work , to th e a m a t e u r wea v e r o f tod ay , i s no t p ea t Al l th r ea ds wi th i n a b r a c e a r e to be r ep ea t ed th e
.

to a cc ep t th e p a tt ern s j ust as th ey h av e b ee n h a nd e d do wn , n u mb er of tim es i ndi c a t ed . F o r ex a mp l e 4 X m ea n s to

,

b u t to m a k e su c h c h a ng es as wil l en a bl e th e fi nish ed p ro r ep ea t th e th r ea d in g fo u r tim es Th e a c t u a l n umb e r o f

.

d uc ts to fi nd a n a pp rop ria te pl a c e i n the h o us e fu rn i sh i ngs th r ead s i n thi s p a tt ern i s 1 68 I f a nu mb er 2 0 r eed i s u s e d

.

\
of tod ay} t h is p a tt e rn may be th r ea d ed t wo f ul l ti m es a nd u p to
Th e p a t te rn s wh ic h fol l o w a r e g iv en a s th ey wer e th e pl a c e m a rk ed by th e a rro w t h e th i rd tim e . D i r ec tly
ori g i n a l ly wov en , togeth e r wi th su c h c h a nges as m a k e th em fol l o wi ng t h is th e s el va g e i s th r ea d ed .

d es i ra bl e a t th i s tim e. Th e n u mb e r o f th rea d s to p rod uc e th e pi e c e of cl oth

Re a din g a D raft i s as fol l o ws :
”
D r a f t i s t he t erm u su a l ly a ppl i e d to a th r ea d ing a s Two tim e s 1 6 8 th r ea d s , pl u s 1 08 th r ea ds ( u p to a r
sho wn i n F igs 7 6 and 7 7 Th is , wh en p rop erly fol lo wed ,
. . r o w) ,
p l u s 3 2 th r ead s fo r s el v a ge, m a ki ng i n a l l 4 7 6
‘

p rodu c e s th e p a t te rn a s sh o wn i n F i gs 7 8 a nd 7 9 F ig
. . . th r ea ds Th e u se of a fou r ply c a rp e t wa rp a nd a No 1 0
.
-
.
56 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

Fi g . 76 —
Th e B i g Di am on d Dra ft . P a ttern with E ach G roup M ark ed

r eed and t wo th r ea ds to th e d e n t m a k es a t a bl e r u nn er dr a ft s h o ws th a t th i s comb i n a tio n i s r ep ea t ed fou r

Th e
a bou t 2 4 i n ch e s wid e wh il e i n t h e l oom .
tim e s ; thi s i s i ndic a t e d by t h e br a c k ets d ra wn a rou n d t h is
Af t er th e wa r p h a s b een r eel ed a nd pl a c ed 0 11 th e
'
group Th e n e x t gro u p i s m a d e up of th e c ombin a tion of
.

b ea m th e th r ea di ng m a y b egin
,
.
3 a n d 1 , i ndic a t e d by b r a ck ets .

F ou rt h : Th r ea din g Th e s el v a ge i s th r ea d ed as b e
—
Th e n ex t t h r ea ds ru n i n th e combin a tio n of 4 a nd 1 ,

for e d e sc rib ed Th e 2 X i ndic a t es t h a t th e th r ea ds wi th i n

.
a n d th e n e x t 4 a n d 2 a s i ndic a t ed by br a c k e ts
,
. Th e

th e br a c e a r e to b e th r ea d ed t wic e.
th r ea di ng i s c on ti nu ed u n ti l t h e l ef t s elv a ge is r ea c h e d
,

B egin n i ng with th e r ea l pat t ern th e fi r s t th r ea d p a ss es t h e b r a ck ets i ndic a ting th e gro u pi ng F rom t h is pl a c e

‘

th e th r ea din g b egin s a t th e b egi nn ing of th e p a tt ern a n d i s

'

th rou gh th e eye of a h e ddl e on th e th ird h edd l e sti ck s .

Th e s econ d th r ea d p a ss e s t h rough th e eye of a h eddl e 0 11 r ep eate d a s econ d tim e str a igh t th rough to t h e l et t s elv a ge ;
th e s econ d h ed dl e stic ks . c a r e m u st b e t a k en to th r ea d th e t h r ea ds wit h i n th e br a c e

EX 4 X
Fi g . 77 —
Th e B i g Di amond . Dra ft of P attern
58 F OO T P O -
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

righ t m iddl e t r ea dl e , a nd 3 a nd 4 ar e ti ed to th e l ef t m idd l e fou rth c h a nge i s 2 a nd 4 , so th e l a s t tr ea dl e is p r ess ed do wn

t r ea dl e. 4 , 6 or 8 tim es .

Wea v in g th e Pa tt ern I t wil l b e obs erv ed th a t th e th r ea ds a ll com e i n c om

B efor e b egi nn i ng th e r ea l p a tt ern a b ou t one h a l f i nc h -
b ina tions S ome tim e s th e c ombi n a tio n consists of o nly
.

of p l a i n wea ving i s don e Th i s i s don e by p r essin g do wn

.
two th r ea ds Wh en thi s i s t ru e th en only two p a t tern
.

fi r st one a nd th en th e o th e r of th e two mi d dl e tr ea dl es .
th rea ds a r e ru n a c ross .

Wi th th e sh u ttl e a t the righ t p r ess do wn t h e fi r st

,
T h e dr a f t sho wn a t F ig 7 7 t el l s a l l th a t m ust be
.

t r ea dl e wh ic h dr aws do wn h eddl e st ick s 2 a nd 3 Th rough .

k no wn a bo u t a p a tt ern to p rod uc e th e fi nish ed p i ec e of
’

th e sh ed p as s th e 6 1 st p a t t ern th 1 ea d 1
.
c l oth.

F o r th e bi n d er p r ess do wn th e m iddl e tr ea dl e to th e Th e T rea dlin g D raft

I or th e s econ d p a tt e rn th r ea d p r e ss do wn t h e fi r s t
‘
r igh t. A tr ea dl ing dr a f t ” fo r ea ch th r ea di ng dr a f t i s not
“

tr ea dl e a ga i n Th e th 1 ea d for th e pl a i n wea ving i s a t th e

.
“ ” “
n ec ess a ry a s th e th r ea d ing d r af t i s u s ed as a tr ea dl ing
l ef t , so th e l eft t rea dl e i s p r e ss ed do wn a n d th e bin d er i s d r a ft i n th e foll o wi ng way
”

s en t fro m th e l ef t to t h e righ t A tt enti on h a s a l r ea dy b een c a l l ed to th e f a c t th a t t h e

F or th e th i rd p a tt e1 11 th 1 ea d p r es s do wn th e fi r st th r ea ding i s don e i n group s , ea ch sm a l l s q u a r e r ep r es en t
t r ea dl e a g a i n Th e bi nd e1 i s now a t th e r igh t so th e righ t
.
,
i ng a t h r ea d I f th e combi n a ti on 3 2 i s u s ed fou r t im es i n
.
-

m i ddl e t r ea dl e i s p r ess ed do wn T hi s i s con ti n u ed u n ti l

. su c c es sion m a kin g eigh t th r ea ds i t m
,
ea n s th a t th e t r ea dl e
,

th e fi r s t tr ea dl e i s p r ess ed do wn a s m a ny ti m es as th er e p ul li n g do wn th e c ombi n a tion 3 22 i s p r es s ed down e igh t

tim esa n d a p a tt ern th r ea d c a r ried a c ross ea ch tim e with a
'

ar e thr ea d s i n dic a t e d i n th e fi r s t c ombi n a tion I n thi s .

c a s e th er e a r e e igh t a nd th e b i n d e r i s us ed a ft er ea c h pa t
,
b i nd e r a ft e r ea ch Any group of th r ea ds wi th i n a br a c e
.

tern th r ea d . I f eigh t tim es m a k es too l a rge a c ol or spo t ,

i s r ep ea t ed i n th e tr ea dl in g as m a ny tim es as i s in dic a t ed
p r es s down th e fi r s t t r ea dl e o nly six o r ev e n fo u r ti m es . by th e fi gu r e b el ow I n th i s way t he th r ea din g d r a f t b e
.

Th e wea v er m u s t b e th e j udg e . com e s th e t r ea dl ing d ra f t .

T h e s econ d c h a nge i n th e p a tt ern is 1 a nd 3 i n the T h e wea v e r h a s n o doub t l ea rn e d by th i s tim e th a t a ll

th r ea ding, th er efor e th e s ec on d tr ea dl e wh ic h dr a w s do wn h ori zont a l sp a c i ng is d et ermi n ed by th e n umb e r of tim es a
1 a nd 3 i s p r ess ed do wn 4 , 6 o r 8 tim es j u st a s th e wea v er
,
c er ta i n c omb in a tio n i s th r ead e d an d c a nnot b e c h a ng ed
d esi r es . a f te r th e p a tt ern i s th r ea d ed Th e v ertic a l sp a c ing is c on
.

Th e th i rd ch a nge i s 1 a nd 4 , so th e fou r th o r n e x t t o t rol l ed by the weav e r and may b e ch a nged a t a ny t im e

F o r ex a mpl <+ if th e t h r ea ding d raf t c a l l s fo r th e c om
/
th e l a st t r ea dl e i s p r es s ed do wn 4 , 6 0 1 8 tim es 1
Th e .
1
 THE THREAD IN G D RAFT 59

bin a tion 3 4 fou r tim es it m ea n s th a t e igh t th rea ds ar e th r ea di ng d r a f t wi th th e fi nish ed p a tte rn to fi nd

d r a wn th ro u gh th e h eddl e ey e s ; i n wea vi ng the p a tt e r nit th e p a rts of a d ra f t th a t wi l l p rod uc e c e r ta i n p a rts
in ea ns th a t e igh t p a tt e rn 01
1
woof th r ea ds a r e pa séed of th e fi nish ed p a tt ern Th e r ep ea ts m a rk ed 7 X etc , l ea ds
.
,
.

th rou gh th e sh ed m a d e by d r a win g clo wn the c omb in a t ion one a t o nc e to wh a t th e K e n tucky wom e n c a l l th e “ T a bl e”

3 4
-
. I t th e wea v er d esir es o nly 4 woof th r ea d s th e c om i n t h e fi nish ed p a tt ern Loc a ti n g a ny one p a r t o f th e d e
.

bi n a tio n 3 4 i s d r awn do wn on ly fou r tinies 0 1 i t m ay b e

- 1
s ign i s a gu id e to a l l th e o th e r p a rts .

d r awn do wn only o nc e, th u s ch a ngin g the v e rti c a l sp a ci ng I t m u s t b e r em emb er ed th a t th e p a tt ern m ay be wov en

ea c h tim e, b u t l ea vi n g th e h or iz on ta l t h e s a m e by u si ng on ly fou r t r ea dl es one t i ed to ea c h h eddl e s tic k a s
'
‘
.
,

I n th i s way th e th r ead i ng d r a f t be c om e s th e t r ea d l ing d esc rib e d i n th e Monk s B e l t a nd th e Ros e P a th

’
.

d ra ft . I n c a s e ea c h h eddl e s tic k i s ti ed to a tr ea dl e, th e pa t
I t is only wh en t h e tr ea dl in g i s i rr egul a r th a t a s ep a r t ern i s p rod uc ed by p r essi ng d o wn tr ea dl es 2 a nd 3 a s
a te d r a f t is n ec es s a ry. m a ny ti m es a s d esi r ed Th e n 1 a n d 3 a s m a ny tim es a s d e
.

Th e dr a fts a r e a l l wri tt en so th a t th e p a t te rn begi ns sir ed 1 a nd 4 a nd th e n 2 a nd 4

,
.

a nd e nds i n a conv en i e n t pl a c e m a k i ng it possibl e to s ew

,
Th e p l a i n wea vi ng i s don e by p r ess ing d o wn tr ea dl es
t wo s trips tog eth e r . I f the d r a f t i s th a t fo r a ta bl e r un n e r 1 and 2 a t o ne t im e, a nd t r ea dl es 3 a nd 4 a t a no th er .

o r p il l o w top th e e n tir e d r a f t i s giv en , sho wi ng both p a t t ern s whi c h fol l o w wil l b e d esc rib e d i n a s
Th e
bo rd ers .
bri e f a way as possibl e, b ec a u s e a l l ty i ng a nd tr ea d l in g a r e
Th er e i s l i ttl e or n o difiicul ty by com p a ri ng th e r ea d i n the d r a f t as a bov e d esc rib ed .

Fi g . 8 0— T h e D oub l e S nowbal l . Dr a f t 0 1 P attern

60 FO O T PO WER
-
L O OM WEA V IN G

Wh ere to B eg i n

O wi ng
'

t o th e wid th of l oo ms i t i s n ec ess a ry to wea v e

cou n t erp anes and cou ch c ov ers i n t wo s trips t o b e s ewed
'

toge th er I n a l l d r a fts c a r e i s t a k e n to be gin th e th r ea ding

.

so two edges m ay b e s ewed togeth e r to ma k e one c om pl e t e

p a tt ern , j us t th e s a m e as fi g u r ed c a rp ets a r e wov en a nd
s ewed .

Th e tie u p : Ea c h lo we r h eddl e stic k i s t i ed to a l a mb

-
.

Th e l a mbs ar e fol lo ws
ti ed as

1 a nd 4 to th e fi r s t t r ea dl e .

1 a n d 3 to th e s econ d t r ea d l e .

2 a nd 3 t o th e th i rd t r ea dl e .

2 a nd 4 to th e fo u rth t r ea d l e .

Th e pl a i n wea v e i s don e by ty in g l a mbs

‘

1 a n d 2 to th e righ t m i ddl e tr ea dl e
Finish ed We av i n g U s i ng D ou b l e S no wb a l l P att er n
.

Fi g 81 —

3 a n d 4 to th e l eft m idd l e t r e
.

a dl e .

F ig 8 0
. sho ws th e origin a l d r a ft for th e D o ubl e sh o w r 8 3 sh o ws a n ad a p t a tio n of th e D oubl e S no w
Fi g u e

b al l , a nd Fig 8 1 s h o ws th e Wov en p a tt e rn wh e n th e dr a f t b a l l I t i s not d iffi cu l t to fi nd th e p a rt of th e p a tt ern us ed

‘

.
.
'

sh o wn i n F ig 8 0 i s f ol lo wed I t r eq u ir es 3 9 6 ends for one

. .
i n th e origi n a l p a tt ern Thi s p a rtic u l a r p a r t wh en u sed
.

r ep ea t of th e p a t t e rn . a lon e as i n F ig 8 2 is oft en c a l l e d th e D og wood B l os s

. om .
 B EGINNIN G TO l VEAVE 6]
-

F igur e 8 2 sh o ws th e d r a ft fo r the a d a p
ta tio n a nd i s r ea d a s fol l o ws
F i rs t : 7 0 4 th r ea d s r eq u i r e d for th e en
ti r e p a tt ern .

S e con d : Ea c h l o we r h eddl e s ti c k is
ti ed to a l a m b .

Th i rd The la mbs a r e ti e d a s fol lo ws

“

1 a nd 4 to th e fi r s t tr ea dl e .

1 a nd 3 to th e s ec ond tr ea dle .

2 a nd 3 to th e th i rd tr ea d l e .

2 a nd 4 to th e fou rth tr ea dl e .

Th e pl a i n wea v e i s don e by ty i ng l a mbs

1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m iddl e tr ea dl e .

3 a n d 4 to the l eft m iddl e tr ea dl e .

Th e m a t eri a l i s a t wo pl y u nbl ea ch ed
-

c ot ton wa rp .

U se a N o 1 5 r e ed pl a c in g t wo th r ea d s
.
,

to a d e n t .

Th e m a t e ri a l u s e d i n th e p a tt e rn m a y
be a c ol o r ed fo u r pl y c a rp e t wa rp or a N o 3
-
.

m e rc e riz ed co t ton The t wo ply c a rp e t wa rp

.
-

ma y b e u s ed fo r th e hi nd e r o r a fi ne m erc e r
ihed th r eagl h tay be u s ed .

Wh en wea v ing the p a tt ern th e p a rt

' “

wi thi n th e b r a c e i s wov e n a s m a ny ti m es as
i s i nd i c a t e d by the fig u r e F or e x a m pl e, th e
.

br a c e m a rk e d 7 X m ea n s al l wi th i n th e b r a c e
i s wov e n s e v e n tim e s b efo re p roc eedi ng wi th
the r e nw intl er o f th e p a tt e rn .

Fi g . 83 —
R i gh t Si de of Ta bl e R unner Fi g . 8 4— U nder Si d e of Ta b l e R unner
62 FO O T P O -
WER LO OM WEAVIN G
F igu r e 8 1 sh o ws th e ori gi n a l p a tte rn , wh il e F i gs 8 3 .

a nd 8 4 sh o w a t a bl e r u nn e r t a k en from Fig 8 1 . .

Th i s p a tt ern i s oft e n u s ed fo r p il lo w tops I n s uc h a .

‘

c a s e a sq u a r e i s wov n
e
.

F ig 8 5 sh o ws a d 1 a ft t a k en from wh a t i s k n own a s
.
\ 1

B lock Work , th e 0 1:igin a l of whieh i s sh o wn i n F ig 8 6

'

. . .

Th i s d esi gn , as wel l as m a ny of th e ol d C ol on i a l p a tt e rn s ,

i s f ul l of su gges tion s fo r p i ll o w top s , t a bl e ru nn ers a n d

ev enc o u n t e rp a n e s
.
.

F i gu r e 8 7 sh o ws a pil l o wtop t a k en f rom F ig 8 6 . .

T h e r e wi l l b e n o d iffi cu l ty i n l oc a ti ng F ig 8 7 in F ig . .

F igu r e 8 8 sh ows
t abl e ru nn e r t ak en from F ig 8 6
a . .

F igur e 8 8 was wo ven on t h e s a m e l oom wi th th e s a m e ,

th r ea ding as th e p il l o w top sho wn i n F ig 8 7 . .

Re adin g of the D raft Fig

, . 76

No . r ee d two th r ea ds to a d en t
10 ,
.

4 5 6 th r ea ds f ou r ply c a rp e t wa rp r eq u i r ed
-
.

F ig . 86 — Fi ni sh ed Weav i ng of B l ck W rk
o o Ea c h l o we r h eddl e stic k i s ti ed to a l a mb .

b o r der ‘
s e lves

Fi g . 85 —
Th e B l o ck Work . Dra ft of P a ttern 1
 READ I N G D RAFT OF FI G
76 .

63

Th e l a mbs ar e ti ed a s fol l o ws
1 a n d 4 to th e fi r st t r ea d l e .

3 a nd 4 to t h e s econ d tr ea dl e .

2 a nd 3 to th e t h i rd t r ea d l e .

1 a nd 2 to th e fou r th t r ea d l e .

F o r pl a i n wea v e t ie .

1 a nd 3 te the ri gh t m id dl e
tr ea dl e .

2 a nd 4 to t h e l ef t m i dd l e t r ea dl
e .

Fi g . 8 7— Fini sh ed Pill ow

O bs erv e th a t the l a s t th r ea d of the righ t e a

s lv ge is
om i t ted i n t he s ec on d th r ea d ing
Th is i s d on e to a voi d
.

t wo th r eads c om in g
toge th e r 0 11 the s am e h eddl s ic k e t .

Fi g 88 ~Tab1e R unn er Wo v en fro m B l o ck

.

Work
64 F OO T P O -
WER L O OM WEAV IN G
B o r d e r
“

Fi g . 89
— ‘

Th e C h ari ot Wh eel . Dra ft of P attern

C h ariot Wh ee l si gn of th e u nde r sid e i s u su a l ly m or e b rok en th u s m a k ,

F igu r e 8 9sh o ws a jd r a ft t a k en f rom wh a t i s k no wn i n g i t m a ny ti m es m or e d esi ra bl e f ro m a n a r t st a ndp oin t .

a s th e C h a ri o t Wh ee l p a tt ern Wh en m a k ing a p il l o w, l et one sid e of th e p il lo w sh ow

'

F igu r e 9 0 sho ws a p i ll o w top wov e n on a l oom th r ea d th e righ t s id e a nd th e o th e r t h e u nd e r sid e of t h e wea ving .

ed wi t h F ig u re 9 2 sh o ws a cou n t e rp a n e, u sin g t h e d r a t t sh o wn
F ig 8 9
-
. .

F igu r e 9 1 sho ws th eu nd er sid e of F ig 9 0 . .

in Fig 8 9 . .

V ery oft en th e u nd er sid e of th e wea vi ng i s m or e a t Readin g th e D raft, Fig 8 9 .

tr a c tiv e th a n th e u pp e r wh ic h i s th e righ t sid e Th e de . Ma t eri a l : A two ply u nbl ea c h ed c

-
a rp e t wa rp .

N umb e r 1 5 r eed , p l a c ing two th r ea ds to a d en t .

Woof : Any c ol or of wool , fou r ply c a rp et wa rp or -

N o 3 m erc er i z ed c otton 6 7 2 th r ea ds r eq u i r ed to com pl et e

.

th e th rea di ng .

Th e l o we r h eddl e stic ks a r e ti ed one to ea c h l a mb .

Th e l a m bs a r e ti ed as fol lo ws :
1 a nd 3 t o th e fi r st tr ea dl e .

2 a n d 3 to th e s ec ond t r ea dl e .

2 a n d 4 t o th e thi rd tr ea dl e
‘

1 and 4 t o th e fo u r t h tr e a d l e .

F or th e pl a i n wea v e :
1 a nd 2 tie to th e ri gh t m iddl e tr eadl e .

Fi g . 90 —
P i110 w T op Wov en f rom C h ari ot Wh eel P attern 3 and 4 t ie to th e l ef t m iddl e t read l e .
66 FOO T P O -
WER LO OM WEAV IN G
th e “
C h ari o t Wh eel ” i n to th e v a rio u s bor ders S u c h a set
.

i nc l u d es th e c ou n t erp a n e, c u rt a i n s , dressi ng tabl e ma t,

’

v a l enc e and ev en th e r u g fo r th e fl oor , wh ic h may b e wov en

of c o a rs e m a t eri al s , c a rry i ng ou t th e u nity of d esi gn .

Th i s p a rtic ul ar p a i r of c ur t a i n s is wov en of Egy p ti a n

t wi n e Th e bord er is of t wo sh a d e s of b l u e N o 3 mer
‘

. .

cer iz ed c o tton .

Th e l oom wa s th r ea d e d 3 0 ends t o th e i nch A nu m

w
.

b er 1 5 r ee d wa s u sed , dr a i n g t wo th rea ds th rou gh ea c h

'

d ent Th is do es n ot g iv e th e sc ri m wea v e as sho wn i n th e

‘

c u rt a i n s , F igs 7 0 and 7 5, b u t m or e of a m a r q u is ett e wea v e,

.

wh ic h is v er y pl eas i ng .

Wh en weavi ng th e bord er u se on l y th e tr ea dl es wh ich

wi l l r a i s e a nd l o wer th e s ets of th r ea d th a t wi l l p rod uc e
th e one r ow of wh eel s I t i s wel l , ho wev e r , to wea v e i n
.

a n a rro w s trip e b el o w a n d a b o v e th e p ri nc ip a l bo r d er
s trip e, wh ic h in th i s c a s e i s th e r ow of wh eel s I f th e.

n a rro w b a nds ar e t o b e u s ed a c ross th e top gr ea t c a r e

m u s t b e ex erc i s e d to g et th e s ep a r a t e b a nds ex a c tly the
s a m e d ist a nc e f rom th e top a nd a t th e s a m e t i m e m a k e
'

th e bord ers a t th e b ot tom c om e toge th er I f th e b a n ds

.

a c ross th e top a r e om it ted t h e wea vi ng of c u rt a i n s i s gr ea t

l y simpl ifi ed . I t is not n ec ess a ry to b e l imit ed by ma

ter ia l s , a s a lm os t a n y th rea ds m ay b e woven i n to m ost a t
'

t r a c t iv e f a bric s .

I n wea vi ng c u rt a in s i t i s a l way s wel l to m a k e a l ib er a l

a l l o wa nc e for sh ri nk a g e A l most al l m a t eri a l s wh eth e r of
.

wool , cotto n 0 1 l i n en wi l l sh rink

1
.

Fi g . 93 —
C urtain Wov en with B ord er from C h ariot Wh eel
 ORAN GE PEEL PATTERN 67

T h e O ran g e P eel

A tt en tio n h a s no t b ee n c a l l e d to th e f a c t th a t i n m a ny
c a s es th e o ri gi n a l wov en p a tt e rn a pp ears wi th o u t the d r a f t
fo r th e s a m e F ig 9 4 sh o ws th e o ri gin a l p a tt ern o f th e
. .

O r a nge P eel , wh i l e Fig 9 5 sh o ws th e d ra f t fo r F ig 9 6

. .

a nd F ig 9 7
. . S h o ul d a c ou n t e rp a n e of th i s p a t t ern b e d e
s ir ed th e th r ea din g i s don e th e s a m e as sh o wn i n F ig 9 5 , .

om i tting th e l ef t b or der e a ch tim e The n u mb e r of tim es

.

th e p a tt e rn i s r ep ea t e d d ep e nds u po n th e wid th of th e l oom

a nd a l so t h e wi dth of th e co uc h cov e r o r c o un t e rp a n e d e

sir ed I t m u st b e r em emb er ed th a t th e st rips a r e s ewed

.

togeth e r a nd m u s t b e m a d e to m a tch .

Th e wea v e r wil l h a v e ga i n ed by thi s tim e s u fficient

exp er i enc e to m a k e t he c h a ng es to m ee t th e d e m a nds .

O ri gi n a l i ty i s one of th e c h i ef a i m s of th e wo rk .

Th e d r a ft r ea d s as fol l o ws
Ma t e ri a l : Two ply u nbl ea ch ed c a rp et wa rp
-
. Fi g . 9 4— O ri g inal P tt rn f rom O rang e P eel
a e

B a r de r Se wa ge

B o r de r

Th r e ad o nce “ fo r e
der
”

las t b o r

F ig . 95 —
Th e O r ng e P e l
a e . Dra f t of P a tt ern
68 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM JVEA V IN G

6 06th r ea ds f or th e com pl et e p a tt ern

Ea c h l o we r h edd l e ~
.

s tick is ti e d to a l a mb .

Th e l a mbs a r e ti ed a s fol l ows :

2 a nd 4 t o th e fi r s t tr ea dl e .

2 a nd 3 to th e s ec on d tr ea d l e .

1 a n d 3 to th e th i rd t r ea dl e
. .

a n d 4 to t h e fou rth t r ea dl e .

I il l ow Wov en from
'

Fi g : 96 — ’
T ap ra ng e P eel
O

Reed n umbe r 1 5 , pl a c in g two t h r ea d s to d en t

a .
.

Th e
m a t e ri a l u s ed i n th e p a tt e rn ( th e woof ) m ay be
a ny of th e t h r ee fo l l o11 in
g n1 ate1 ial s
1 1
1

Woo l f ou r ply c arp et wa rp o r No

,
-

,
. 3 .
m er ce r iz etl
c otto n .

,
Use a fi ner th r ea d fo r t h e bi nd er . Fi g . 97— U nd er Si d e of Pil l ow sh own in Fi g . 96
 THE G O VER NO R S GARDEN
’
69

S a lv ag e

Fi g . 98 —
Th e Gov ernor s G arden
’
. Draf t of P attern

For th e pl a i n wea v e .

1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m iddl e t rea d l e .

3 a n d 4 t o t h e l ef t m iddl e t r ea d l e
.

Th i s p a tt ern h as a few i rregul a ri ti e s F i rst th e .

s elv a ge i s th r ead ed a nd th e n th e ri gh t bo rd e r Th e pa t .

te rn i s th en th r ea d ed fi ve tim es from on e a rr ow to th e
oth e r Aft e r th e fi fth th rea d ing th e th r ea ds wi th i n th e
.

“ ”
b r ac e m ar k ed th rea d onc e b e fo re l a s t bo rd r a r e t a k en
e

c a r e o f A ft e r th i s the l a s t bord er i s th r ea d ed om i ttin g

.
,

th e fi r s t th r ea d in th e fi r s t r ep ea t of th e b o rd er T hi s i s .

don e to avoi d two th r ea d s c om i ng t oge th e r o n th e fi r s t

h eddl e s tick Th e th r ea di ng o f th e l eft bo rd e r co m
_

. pl e t es
th e p a tt ern.

Fi g . 99 —
0 ri g inal P atter n of G ov ernor s G arden
’
 WER L O OM WEAV IN G
.

70 FO O T P O
-

sof a bi l lo w top Th e d r a ft sho wn a t F ig 9 5

. . w
ill m a ke
.

th is p il l ow top .

F i gu r e 9 7 sho ws th e u nd e r si d e of F ig 9 6 . .

’
Go v ern or s Gard en
F igu r e 9 8
giv e s th e d r a ft for a p il lo w top o r t a bl e
ru nn e r t a k en f rom th e “
G ov e rno r s G a rd e n ” sho wn ia
’
1

F ig 9 9 . .

I t i s d ifficu l t to r ecogn i z e F i gs 9 7 a nd 9 8 as h a vin g .

b ee n t a k en f rom F ig 9 9 . .

I t i s q u i t e wo nd erfu l wh a t ev enth e a m a t e u r wea v er

wil l b e a bl e to do a ft e r a som ewh a t l im i t ed e xp e ri enc e i n
a c tu a l work wi th th e l oom .

Any d r a f t i s ful l of suggestion s fo r bord e rs , c u rt a i ns

t abl e run n ers c o m pl et e couc h cov e rs pil lo w top s c ou n t er
, , ,
:

p a n es etc ,
.

”
T he G “
ov e rnor s Ga rd ’
e n i s th e l ong est of th e d r a fts
a n d i s th r ea d e d j u st a s giv en i n F ig 9 8 . .

Th e dr a f t r ea ds a s fol lo ws
Ma t eri a l s : T wo ply u nbl eac h ed c a rp et wa rp
-
.

R eed : N umb e r 1 5 pl a c in g t wo t h r ea ds to a d ent

,
.

Th e m a t eri a l i n th e p a tt ern ( woof ) m ay b e a ny of

th e m a t eria l s b efor e m enti on ed
-
.

U se 7 1 6 th r ea ds for t h e c ompl et e p a tt ern Eac h l o wer .

Fi g . 1 00 —
Pil l ow T o p Wo v en f rom G ov ern or s G ard en
’
h eddl e stic k is ti ed to a l amb .

Th e l a mbs a r e t i ed as fol lo ws
I t wi l l be obs erv ed th a t th e r igh t a nd l eft ed g es a r e 1 a nd 4 to th e fi r st tr ea dl e .

not th e s am e, only h a l f th e p a tt ern sho wi ng o n th e r igh t

.
1 a nd 2 t o th e s econ d t r ea dl e .

edg e a n d a l mos t a compl ete p a t te r n on th e l ef t e dg e . 2 a nd 3 t o th e th ird t r ea dl e .

F igu r e 9 6 sho ws th e O r a nge P ee l work ed ou t i n a

”
3 and 4 t o th e fo urth t r ea dl e
“ .
 B O N APARTE S
’
MARCH PA TTERN 71

F o r th e pl a i n wea v e tie

1 and
to th e righ t m idd l e tr ea d l e
3 .

2 and 4 to th e l eft m iddl e tr ea d l e .

F i gu r e 1 0 0 sh o ws th e righ t s id e of th e fi n ish ed weav

ing wh i l e F ig 1 0 1 sh o ws th e u nd e r sid e
, . .

Th e bo rd e r o n th e fron t a nd b a c k edg es o f a ny weav

i ng i s a l way s t a k e n c a r e of by wea ving th e r ep ea t o f th e
bord e r a s m a ny ti m es as i s suggest ed i n the d r a ft .

Bon a p a rt e s March
’

sh o ws the wov en s a mpl e of B on a p a rt e s

F igu r e 1 0 3
’

Ma rch I t wa s wov e n by fol lo wi ng the d r a ft sh o wn a t

.

F ig 1 0 2
. I n wea vi n g th e ol d tim e co u nt e r pa n e s i t wa s
.
-

n ec es s ar y t o wea v e th em i n t wo s tri ps b e c a us e of t he
width of th e l oo m s a t th a t tim e I n o rd e r th a t th e t wo
.

st rips m i gh t b e s ewed tog eth e r th e p a tt e rn wa s b egu n i n

,

the c en t er of som e p a rt ic ul a r fi g u r e fo un d i n the p a tt ern .

O nly fou r t h r ea d s wer e u s e d i n th e s el v a ge a l on g th e

l eft edge Th e bo rd er wa s u su a l ly pl a c ed 0 11 the ri gh t edge
. .

Fi g . 101 —
U nd er Si d e of Pil l owS h o wn Fi g . 1 00

Bord er s
F igu r e 1 02 r ead s as fol lo ws
B ord ers a r e m a d e by r ep ea ting c e rt a i n s ets o f th r ea ds C ou n t th e n u mb e r o f th rea d s i n t h e
a n u mb e r of ti m es Any o ne a t a l l f a m il i a r wi th p a tt ern
. Ea c h l o we r h edd l e s tick i s ti ed to a
wea vi ng ca n r ea dily u nd e rst a n d th e m a k ing o f bo rd ers . Th e l a mbs a r e ti ed a s fol l o ws
F i g u r e 1 0 4 sh o ws a dr a ft t a k en from d r a f t 1 0 2 It is . 1 a nd 4 to t h e fi r s t t r ea d l e .

th a t p a rt of th e d r a ft th a t wi l l m a k e a n i n t eres tin g p il lo w 2 a nd 3 to th e s econ d t rea d l e .

top . 1 a n d 3 to th e th i rd t r ea d l e .
72 FO O T -
P OWER L O OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 1 Q2 —
B onap arte s M arch
’
. Dra f t of Pattern

I t wi l l be obs erv ed th a t only th r ee tr ea dl es ar e neces

s a ry to wea v e t h e p a tt ern .

Th e pl a i n wea v e i s don e by ty i ng l a mbs

1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m id dl e t r ea dl e .

3 a nd 4 to th e l ef t m i ddl e tr ea dl e .

Th e m a te ri a l m ay b e a ny of th e m a t eri a l b efor e m en
‘

tio ned .

F igu r e 1 04 may b e r ea d a nd th e t r ea dl es ti ed th e s am e
as d esc ribe d i n F ig 1 02
. .

s T r ail
S n ail
’

F i gu r e 1 05 sho ws th e d r af t f or th e p a tt ern sho wn in

“ ” ’
F ig 1 0 6
. Thi s p a tt ern i s oft e n c a l l ed th e S n a i l s Tr a i l
.

a nd
“
C a t s P aw
’ ”
.

Fi g . 103 —
O ri g l P attern
ina of B na p arte s M arch
o
’
Ea ch lo wer h eddl e st ic k i s ti ed to a l a mb .

s e l va c

19 5:
Fi g . 1 044 Dra f t of P attern for Pil l ow T ap . A d a p t ati on of B onap arte s M arch
’
74 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEAVIN G/

‘ Fi g . 1 07 —
Th e Blo
o min g Fl ower . Dra f t of P attern
Pin e Knot
u
Fig re 1 09 sho ws th edr a f t f or “ Th e P i n e K no t” and
ws th e wov en s a m pl e Th i s p a tt ern l en ds
‘

F ig . 110 sh o .

i ts el f to s ev e r a l inter esting comb inations

'

I f th e w ea v e r h a s r ea d wh a t h a s gon e b efor e th e r e

wi ll be n o d iffi cu l ty by th is t im e t o s el ec t s uc h p a rts of
'

th e p a tt ern a s a r e d esi r ed .

Th e d r a f t r ea ds a s fol l o ws
Tie ea c h l o wer h edd l e stick to a l a mb Th e l a mb s .

a r e ti ed as fol l o ws

2 a n d 3 t o the fi r st tr ea dl e .

2 a n d 4 to th e s ec on d tr ea dl e .

1 a nd 4 to th e th i rd t rea dl e .

1 a n d 3 to th e fou rt h t r ea dl e .

T h e pl a i n wea v e is don e by tyi ng l a mbs

Fi g.
_
1 08 —
0 ri g i nal P atte rn B l oom ing Fl o wer
, 1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m i ddl e tr ea dl e
.
.

3 an d 4 to th e l eft m iddl e tr ea dl e
“

.
,

I t m u s t no t be forgott en th a t th e l a mbs a r e n o t a bs o
'

Ea c h t r ea dl e m ay be ti ed di r ec t l y to
'

2 a nd 4t o th e fou rth tr ea dl e l u te n ecessa r y

w
. .

Th e pl a i n wea vi n g is don e by ty i ng l a mbs th e l o e r h e ddl e s tick I n su ch a c a s e onl y fou r t rea dl es

.

1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m iddl e tr ea dl e . a r e u s e d bu t t wo a r e p r ess ed do wn ea c h tim e a t h r ea d i s

2 and 4 t o th e l eft mi ddl e tr ea dl e .

p a ss ed th ro ugh th e sh ed Th is h as a l r ea dy b een d esc rib ed
.
.
P IN E KN O T AND FEDERAL KN O T P ATTERN S

Fi g . 1 09 — Pin e K not . Dra f t of P attern

Fi g . 1 1 0— Or ig lnal P atte rn Pi ne K not

,

Fi g . 111 F ederal K not

-
. Dra f t of P attern
76 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEAV IN G
Fe d e ra l Knot 2 a ndto th e fou rth t r ea dl e
3 .

sh o ws the d r a f t fo r th e “ Fed e r a l K no t” a nd
F ig 1 1 1
.
Th e pl a i n weave i s don e by ty i ng l a mbs
F ig 1 1 2 sh o ws th e woven s a mpl e
.
‘
Th i s p a tt ern th e s a m e
.
1 a nd 3 w th e l 1 gb t m l dd l e t r ea dl e
1
.
,

as th os e p r eviou sly d esc rib e d is ful l of s ugge stion s 2 a n d 4 to t h e l ef t m 1 dd 1e t rea dl e .

, .

Wh ee l of Fort u n e

F i gu r e 1 1 3 sh o ws th e d r a f t for wh a t i s kn o wn as th e
Wh eel of F ortun e, ” som eti m es c a l l ed th e “ Wh eel of ‘

”
T im e .

Th e d r a f t r ea ds a s fol l ows : Ma t e ri al 2 , 3 , o r 4 p ly -

u nbl ea c h e d c a rp e t wa rp fo r th e wa rp .

Th e m a t e ri a l u s ed i n th e p a tt ern ( th e woof ) m ay be
a ny one of t h e m a t e ri a l s a l r ea dy m e ntion ed .

F 0 1 2 ply c a rp e t wa rp u se a No 1 5 r ee d for 3 p ly u se
1 -
.
,
-

a N o 1 2 r ee d , for 4 ply u se a N o 1 0 r ee d
.
-
. . .

I t r e q u i r es 2 6 2 th r ea d s fo r one r ep ea t of th e p a tt ern .

Th e s elv a g e r eq u i r es ei gh t th r ea ds ; a nd th e bord e r for a

c oun t erp a n e, 1 6 0 th r ea d s I f a p i ll o w top i s t o be m a d e
.

t h e bo rd e r sh ou l d b e m a d e n a rro we r a nd on both e dges .

Fi g . 1 12 —
O ri g in
al P attern F ed era l Knot
,
Th e p a tt ern b egi n s a t th e fi r s t a rro w j ust a f t er th e s elv a ge
a n d ends a t th e o th e r a rro w j u s t b e fo r e th e bord e r .

Th e m a t e ri a l b efor e m ention e d m ay a ga i n Tie u p : Ea c h l o we r h eddl e stick is ti ed t o a l a mb

- .

p a t t ern. T h e l a mbs a r e ti e d as fol lo ws

Th e d r a f t r ea ds a s fol lo ws 2 a nd 4 to th e fi r s t t r ea dl e .

Tie ea c h lo we r h ed dl e stic k to a l a mb .
2 an d 3 to th e s econ d t r ea dl e .

Th e l a mbs a r e ti e d a s fol l o ws 1 a nd 3 t o th e th i rd t r ea dl e
“

1 a nd 4 to th e fi r s t tr ea dl e . 1 a nd 4 t o th e f ou rth tr ea dl e .

3 a nd 4 to th e s ec on d tr eadl e . F or th e pl a i n wea v e t ie :
1 a n d 2 to t h e th i rd t r ea d l e . 1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m iddl e t r ea dl e .
 I RI SH CHAIN AND W HEEL OF F O RT UN E 77

3 a nd 4
to the l ef t m iddl e t r ea dl e .

Th e wea v er m u st a l way s r em emb er th a t a gr ea t d ea l

of j udgm en t m u st b e ex e rci s ed wh en doin g th e wea vin g .

F ou r t r ea dl es m ay be u s ed o ne ti e d to ea c h l o we r
,

t rea dl e stic k I n suc h a c a s e two tr ead l es m u s t b e p r ess ed

.

do wn a t t h e s am e ti m e Al mos t a ny k in d o f m a t eri a l m ay
.

be a d a p te d t o t h e wo rk W h en th e m a t eri a l is c o a rs e th er e
.

m us t b e fewer th rea d s t o th e i nch

. .

F i gu r e 1 1 4 sh o ws th e fi nish ed weaving .

Iris h C h ai n
Th e “
I ri sh n
C h ai , ”
som etim es c a l l ed th e Ni n e “

Wh eel s ,
”
a n d s om e ti m e s th e “ N i n e S no w B a l l s
”
i s sh o wn
,

in F ig 1 1 6
. . Fi g . 11 4 —
Wh eel of F ort une
. O ri g in al P attern
Th e d r a f t fo r th e “ I ris h C h a i n i s sh o wn i n F ig 1 1 5 . .

Th e d ra f t r ea ds a s fol l o ws : u s ed i n th e p a t te rn ( woof ) may be a ny o ne of th e ma

Ma t eri a l : Two ply u n bl ea ch ed wa rp The m a t eri a l
-
. ter ia l s a l r ea dy m e n ti on e d .

S e lv a

B or d e r

l
Fi g . 1 1 3— Wh eel of F ort une
. Dra f t of P attern
78
.
1
FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 1 1 5— T he I ri sh C h ain . Dra ft P attern

Fi g 118 —
R i ng s an d C h ai ns O ri g in l P ttern
a a
I ri C h ai n O ri g inal P attern
. .

Fi g . 11 6 —
sh .

Fi g . 117 —
Dra ft of P attern . R i ng s a nd C h a i ns
 RI N GS AND CHAIN S PATTERN 79

N u mb e r 1 5 r eed , p l a c in g two th r ea ds to
‘

th r ead s r eq u i r ed t o c ompl et e one r ep ea t of th e pa tter n

‘

T h e T ie- U p

Th e l o we r h eddl e s tic ks a r e ti e d o n e to ea c h l a m b .

Th e l a mbs a r e t i ed a s fol lo ws
2 a nd 3 to th e fi r s t t r ead l e .

2 a nd 4 to t he s ec ond tr ea dl e .

1 a nd 4 to t h e th i rd t r ea dl e ,
1 a nd 3 t o th e fou rth t r ea dl e
w
.

F o r t h e pl a i n
‘
ea v e
0

1 a nd 2 to th e ri gh t m iddl e tr ea d l e :
‘

2 a nd 4 to th e l eft m id d l e tr ea d l e .

Fi gu r e 1 1 8 sh o ws th e o ri gin a l p a tt er n wov e n by fo l
l o win g th e d r a f t sh o wn i n F ig 1 1 7 wi th ou t th e bo rd e r A
.
,
.

coun t e rp a n e o r co uch c ov e r i s no t q u it e c om pl et e i f l eft

wi th ou t a bo rd e r . F ig 1 1 9 sh o ws a c ou n t e rp a n e wi th
.

bo rd e r F ig 1 1 7 sh ows th e com pl e t e d r a ft fo r th e s a m e
. . .

Th e sa m e d r a ft may b e u s ed fo r a pi l lo w top o r t a bl e
.

ru n n e r by th rea d in g th e bo rd e r f e we r ti mes a nd r e p ea ting

i t a nd th e s e lv a g e a l on g t he l eft sid e .

Th e a m a t e u r wea v e r h a s no doub t d iscov er ed by thi s

tim e th a t a ny bo rd e r con si sts only of a c e rt a i n n umb e r of
th r ea ds of ea c h c ombi n a tio n r ep ea t ed a n u mb e r o f tim es ,

th e n u mb e r of r ep ea ts d ep e ndi ng en ti r ely u pon th e wi d th

of th e bord e r d es ir ed .

Th e f ro n t bo rd e r i s a l way s p rodu c e d by fol lo wi ng th e

d r a f t sho wn with i n t he b r a c e m a rk e d “ bo rd e r ” r e p ea ti ng
,
'

th e wea vin g as m a ny ti m es a s i s i nd ic a t ed .
80 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEAV IN G
U pon x a m i n a ti on i t i s fou n d th a t to p rodu c e th e nu
e

ish ed pi ec e of c l oth th e p a tt ern tr ea dl es a r e ti ed a s fol lo ws

Th e lo we r h ed dl e s tick s a r e ti ed o ne to ea c h l a mb .

T r ea dl es 1 a nd 2 a r e ti ed to th e fi r s t l a mb .

T rea dl es 1 a nd 4 a r e ti ed to th e s eco n d l a mb .

Tr ea dl es 3 a n d 4 a r e ti ed t o th e th i rd l a mb .

T r ea dl es 2 a nd 3 a r e ti ed t o th e fou rt h l a mb .

P l a i n wea v e :
T r ea dl e s 1 an d 3 a r e ti ed to th e righ t m iddl e t r ea dl e .

Tr ea dl es 2 an d 4 a r e t ied to t h e l ef t m idd l e tr ea dl e .

Th e m a t eri a l s u s ed a r e sim i l a r to th os e p r eviously

s uggest ed for o th e r p a t t ern s .

F igu r e 1 2 0 sh o ws a p a i r of c u rt a ins wov e n of

Egyp ti a n t inw e bo rd e r i s a R ings
“
e .Th n a d a pt a tion of

a n d C h a in s
”
Th e p a r t u s ed i n t h e bord e r m ay ea sily b e
.

fo u nd i n th e c om pl et e d cou n t e rp a n e F ig 1 1 9 Th e th r ea d
,
. .

i ng fo r th e bord e r i n th e c u rt a i n s i s th e s a m e as sho wn i n
F ig 1 1 7
. I n weavi ng only t h e t r ead l es a r e u s e d th a t wi l l
.

p ro d uc e th e bord e rs sh own i n t h e c u rt a i n s .

O ld Quilt P a tt ern

Th e fi ni sh e d cou nt erp a n e sh o wn i n F ig 1 2 1 wa s .

wov en by fol lo wi ng th e d ra ft sho wn i n F ig 1 2 2 . .

T h e n a m e of thi s p a rti c ul ar p a tt ern i s u nk no wn to

t h e a u tho r Th e d r a f t was t a k en from an ol d cou n t erp a n e
.

b el on gin g to Miss E liz a b eth Gr a nge r of Jol i et 1 11

, ,
.

Ea c h l ower h edd l e sti ck i s ti ed to a l a m b

'

Th e tr ea dl es a r e ti ed a s follo ws
T r ea dl es 1 a nd 2 a r e ti ed to th e fi r s t l a mb .

Fi g . 1 2 0— C urta ins with B order f rom R in g s and C h ains

 m on p owm L O OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 122 —
0 1d Qu ilt P attern . Draf t . of P atter n

Fi g . 123 —
L eop ard S k in O ri g inal P attern
.

Fi g . 1 24 ~L e0 p ard S k in . Dra f t of P attern

 MI S CELLAN EO US CO LONIAL PATTERNS 83

Fi g . 125 Fox T
-
rai l . Dra f t of P a ttern

Fi g . 126 —
Fox T ra i l . O rig i n l P tt rn
a a e Fi g . 1 27 —
D oors a nd Wind ows . O ri g in l Pattern
a

Fi g . 1 28 —
D oors a nd Windo ws . Dra ft 0 1 P attern
84 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEAV IN G

F ig . 1 29 —
D oub 1e C h ari ot Wh eel s . Dra ft of P attern

F ig . 1 30 —
D ou b 1e C h ari ot Wh eel s . O ri g i n l P tt rn
a a e Fi g . 1 31 —
S carl et Bal l s . O rig inal P tt rn
a e

Fi g . 1 32 —
S carl et B all s
. Dra ft of P attern
 US CO LO NI AL PATTERNS 85

Fi g . 1 33 —
S ea Star . Dra ft P attern

Fi g . 1 34 S ea
-
St ar
. O ri g i n l P ttern
a a F ig . 1 35
—
Th e Wh ite H ous e . O ig i n l P tt rn
r a a e

Fi g . 1 3 6— Th e Wh ite H ouse . Dra ft 0 1 P attern

 WER WEA V IN G
.

86 FO O T P O -
L O OM

~
Fi g.1 37 —
Th e I nd i ana Frame R ose . Draf t o f P attern

Fi g . 1 38 —
Th e I nd ana Fr
. me
a R os e O ri g i nal P a ttern
.
Fi g . 1 39 —
Wi n dow S ash . O ri g in l P att rn
a e

Fi g . 1 40 —
Win dow S ash . Dra f t of P attern
 MI S C ELLAN EO US CO LO NI AL PATTERN S

Fi g . 1 41 —
Pa 1 s o n1 ’
s B ea uty . Dra f t of P att

Fi g . 1 42 —
P r '
a s on s B ea ut y . O ri g i nal P attern Fi g . 1 43 —
B radd ock D f at O ri g i n l P att rn
'
s e e . a e

Fi g . 1 4 4— B radd ck s
o
'
De f eat . Dra f t 0 ! Pattern
88 F O OT-P O WER LO OM WEAVI N G

F ig . 1 45 —
Th e Kin g s F l ower
’
.

Fi g . 1 46 —
Th e Ki n g s Fl ower
’
. O ri g i nal P ttern
a Fi g . 1 47 Q u een s D eli g h t
- ’
. O rig i n
al P att ern

Fi g . 1 48 —
Q ueen s D eli g h t
’
. Dra ft of P attern 3 X
90 FOOTL
PO WER L O OM WEAVI N G

Fi g . 1 5 3— D oubl e Bow K not . Dra f t of P attern

 MI S CELLAN EOUS C O LO NIAL PATTERN S

Fi g . 1 54 —
D 0 ub l e B ow Knot . O ri g in l Patte rn
a Fi g . 1 55 -
F o ur Wh eel s . O ri g inal P att rn
e

Fig . 1 56— F our Wh eel s . Dra f t 0 1! P attern

92 FO O T -
P OWER L O OM WEAVIN G

Fi g . 1 57 —
V irg ini an S now B al l . Draf t of P attern

Fi g . 1 58 —
V irg i ni n S n
a o w B all . O ri g i n al P attern Fi g . 1 59 —
ks
D o g T ra c . O ri g i n
al P attern

Fi g . 1 60 —
D og T ra ck s . Dra ft of P attern
 MI S CELLAN EOUS C OLO NIAL PATTERNS
’
93

Fi g . 1 61 —
Th e Pl at f orm . Dra f t of P attern

F ig . 1 6 2— Th e P l at f o r m . r g i nal P attern
O i Fig . 1 6 3— G uess Me
. O ri g in al P tt rn
a e

Fig . 1 6 4— G uess Me . Dra f t of P attern

94 FO O T PO -
WER LO OM WEAVI N G

Fig . 1 65
—
Wi nd Fl ower . Dr a ft of P attern

th e th r ea d ing , a nd th e oth er to b e foll o wed i n u sing th e F or t h e pl a i n wea v e, 2 a nd 4 ar e ti ed tog eth e r ,

a nd 1
tr ea dl es . an d 3 .

F igu re 1 6 5 sho ws ex a c tly th e way t h e l oom sh ou l d b e Wh en weavi ng ,

i s fol lo wed ; th e wea v er p r ess
F ig 1 6 6
.

th r ea d ed to p ro duc e t h e p a t t ern sho wn i n F ig 1 6 7 Af t er

. . . i ng do wn s uc h t r ea dl es a s wil l dr aw d own th e th r ea ds
th e th r ea di ng i s compl et ed th er e i s n o fu rth er u se for Fig
. . i n dic a t ed i n th e t rea dl i ng d r a f t To d et erm in e th e n u mb er
.

' '

165 . Th e l a mb s a nd t r ea d l e s a r e ti e d th e s a m e a s i n p r e of ti m e s ea c h tr ea dl e sh ou l d b e pr essed d own th e d r af t

vion s p a tt ern s m ay b e d ivid e d i n groups of th r ea ds as s uggest ed i n
2 an d 3 to t h e fi r st
tr ea dl e F ig 7 6
. .

Wh i g
.

1 a n d 2 t o th e s ec on d .
Th e R os e

1 a n d 4 to t h e t h i rd . F i gu r e 1 68 sh o ws a n oth e r p a tt e rn wov e n by u sing

3 a n d 4 to th e fou rt h . two d r a fts , on e fo r th r ea d ing a nd on e fer tr ea dl i ng F ig . .

Fi g . 1 66 —
Wind Fl ower . T readli ng Draf t
 MI S CELLAN EOUS C OLONI AL PATTERN S 95

Fi g . 1 67 —
O ri g i n l P tt rn
a a e a nd B ord er Wov en f r
o m Th e Wi nd
Fl o wer Pattern F ig . 1 68 —
Th e Wh i g R os e
. O ri g inal Patt rn
e
 FOO T -
P OWER LO0 M WEAV '

Fig . 1 69 — T h e
=
Wh i g R ose
. Draft of P attern

sh o ws th e th r ea din g dr a f t fo r th e Wh ig R os e, wh il e Th e t h r ea d ing , t ie u p a nd
tr ea dl ing a r e a l l foun d i n
m
-

1 7 0 sho ws th e tr ea dl i ng d r a ft for th e s a e
'

Th e p a tt ern
. th e d ra f t a nd r eq u i re n o f u rth e r expl a n a tion .

t r eadl es a r e ti ed 1 a nd 2 t o th e first t r ea dl e 2 a n d 3 to th e
, Th e h a l fto n e F ig 1 7 2 , sh o ws th e fi nish ed p a tt e rn a s
,
.
,

s econ d , 3 an d 4 to t h e thi rd 1 and 4 t o th e fo u rth

.
, . it i s u s e d a t B er ea , K en t ucky
.
.

Th e pl a i n wea v e is d on e by ty in g 1 a n d 3 t o th e righ t
'

Th e wa rp i s a t wo p ly t wen ty -
co tton th read
-
.

m iddl e tr ea dl e a nd 2 and 4 t o th e l ef t m id dl e t r ea dl e
, . Th e woof i s of wool .

Aft e r th e th r ea ding h as b een comp l et e d th er e i s 11 0 1

T h er e ar e 3 0 th rea d s to th e i nch th r ea d ed th rough ,

fu r th e r u se fo r F ig 1 6 9 Wh e n weav ing foll o w F ig 1 7 0

. .
,
.
, th e d ents of a No 3 0 r eed one th r ea d to th e d en t or a
.
, ,

r em emb ering th a t ea c h d a rk sq u a r e r ep r es ents one woof N o 1 5 r eed , t wo th r ea ds to the d ent

. .

th r ea d .

Sun Moo n and S t ars

,
Pin e C on e Bloom
F i gu r e 1 7 1sh ows a dr a ft for wh a t i s k no wn as th e sh o ws
F igu r e 1 7 3 th e d r a ft for wh a t i s k no wn as th e
S u n, M oon and S t a rs
‘
.
‘
P i n e C on e B l oom .

F ig . 170 —
Th e Wh i g R ose . T readling Draf t
 :
98 FO O T -
P OWER LO OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 1 73 -
Dr a ft . Pi ne C on e B l oom

Fi ni sh ed Cl oth Pine C one B l oom L il y V ll y

-

Fi g . 1 74 —
. Fig . 1 76 —
of th e a e

Fig 1 7 5
. of th e V ll y
a e . Dra ft of P attern
 MI S CELLAN EO US CO LO NI AL PATTERNS
’

Fi g . 1 7 9— B ag . Fi g . 1 80 —
H a nd B ag

Fi g . 177 —
Th e H oney S tick l e Dra f t o f Pattern
.

Fi g . 1 7 8— A da p t at ions f rom th e H one y S uckl e Pa tté r n

 ”

10 0

Fi g . 1 82— Dra f t of P attern u se d in Fi g . 1 81

 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEA V IN G
A ga i n cco rd in g to p ri n c ipl e fou r t h e n ex t c om bi
a ,

n a t ion ( bl oc k 3 ) m u s t b e one t h a t h as in i t th e l a s t n um
her j us t u s ed I n th e di a gr a m th e l a s t nu mb e r was 2 so
.
,

th e combi n a tion 2 3 m u s t he u s ed n ex t : Th is i s r ep r e
“

s ent ed a s b e for e o n th e l i n es r ep r es en ti ng th os eh eddl es ,

c ou nt i ng th e 2 a l r ea d v t h er e as t h e fi r s t n umb e r a nd u si n g
‘

as m a ny a l t e rn a t ely as th e r e a r e to b e warp th r ea ds u nd e r
,

th e thi1 d bl oc k of ( 0 10 1 1 11 th i s c a s e 8
—

B loc k 4 i s th e n ex t to he c on sid er ed .

Th is b l oc k m us t b e o ne th a t h as i n it th e l a s t n um
\s e th e combin a
‘

her j u s t u s ed Th e l a s t nu mb e r as

tio n 3 4 m u s t b e u s e d n ex t Th i s i s 1 ep l ese 11 ted a s befo w

.

o n th e li n es l epr es en tin g th os e h e ddl e s , coun ti ng t h e 3

a l r ea dy th e r e a s t h e fi i s t 1 1 u mb e 1 a n d u sing a s 1 11 a ny a l tei

ma t ely a s t h er e a r e to b e wa rp th r ea ds u nd e r th e fou rt h
bl oc k of c ol or ia t h i s c a s e 4
—
.

B l oc k 5 i s th e n ex t t o b e c on sid er ed .

A cc ordi ng to p ri nc ip l e fi ve i t i s ea sily s ee n th a t bl ock

,

i s simp ly a r ep e ti tion of b l 3 a n d i s r epr es en t e d b y

5 .

t h e c omb in a tion 2 3 H ere i s . fi r s t d ifiicu l ty Th e l a s t .

h eddl e u s ed was 4 a n d ou r n ex t bl oc k i n o rd e r to be l i k e
,

th e th i rd , m us t be m a d e wi th t h e c ombin a tion 2 3 In -
.

Fi g . 1 8 3— C om pl ete P attern R ep ea ted o rd er t o h a v e th e l a s t th r ea d b e th e fi r s t i n th e n e x t ,

3

m us t be th e l a s t h eddl e u s ed T h is ca n be m a de righ t by
.

m us t b e u s ed n ex t Th is i s r ep r es ent ed as b efor e on th e a ddin g a noth e r th r ea d t o t h e wa rp th r ea ds u n d e r th e

fo ur th bl ock a n d p ut ting i t t h ro ugh t h e th i rd h eddl e We

. .

l in
‘

e s r ep r e s en tin g thos e h eddl es c ou n ti ng th e 1 a 11 ea dy

'

1 .

.
,

th er e as th e fi r st n u mb er an d u si ng a s m a ny a l t ern a t el y ,
! a r e th en r ea dy t o u se 3 2 t wo tim es u sing t h e t h i rd h ed dl e
,

as th er e a r e to b e wa rp t h r ea ds u nd er th e s ec on d bl oc k of fi r st
'

c ol or in thi s c a s e
— B l ock 6 i s to be n e xt consid e r e d .
 A NA L Y S I S OF W O VE N PATTERN 1 03

Acc ordin g to p ri n cipl e fi ve , bl oc k 6 i s 0 11 a l i n e ve r .

t ic a lly a n d h o ri zon t a l ly wit h bl oc k 4 a nd sh o ul d b e r epr e

s en t e d by th e e omb ina t io u 3 4 I n o rd e r to h a v e th e l a s t
-
.

t h r ea d th e fi r s t i n t h e n ex t 3 m u st b e t h e l a s t h edd l e u s ed
,
.

T h is ca n b e m a d e righ t by a d di ng a no th e r th r ea d to th e
wa rp th r ea d s u nd e r t h e fi fth bloc k a nd pu tti ng i t t h l eu gh '

th e th i rd h ed dl e . We a r e th en r ea dy to use 3 4 two tim es .

B lo ck 7 i s to b e n e x t c on sid er ed .

Acco rd ing to p ri ncipl e fiv e bl oc k 7 i s on a l i n e ve r

,

tic a l ly a nd h ori zon t a lly wi th bloc k 5 a nd shou l d be ve p r e

s en t ed by the co1 11 b i11 a tio n 3 2 Th e l a s t t h r ead u s e d was
-

m
.

4. Thi s can b e a d e ri gh t by a dd in g a no th e r th r ea d to
th e wa rp th r ea d s u n d e r th e s ix th bl oc k a nd p u tt in g i t
th rou gh t h e th i rd h eddl e We a r e th en r ea dy to u se 3 2
'

t wo tim es u si n g th e th i rd h eddl e fi r s t
, .

B l oc k 8 i s t h e s a m e as bl oc ks 6 a nd 4 a nd i s r ep t e
s en t ed by th e c om bi n a ti o n 3 4 -
Th e l a s t thr e
. a d u se d i n

bl oc k 7 wa s 2 A n oth e r t h r ea d m u s t now be a dd e d to th e
.

wa rp th rea ds of bl oc k 7 a nd th rea d ed th ro ugh th e thi rd

h ed dl e We a r e th en r ea dy t o u se 3 4 t wo ti m es
"
-
. .

B l oc k 9 is th e s a m e a s bl oc k 3 a n d sh oul d b e r ep r e
s e n ted by the com bi n a tion 2 3 S inc e th e l a s t th rea d of
.

bl oc k 8 wa s fou r i t b ec om es n e c ess a ry to ad d a noth e r wa rp

,

th r ea d to b loc k 4 a nd th r ea d i t th ro ugh th e th i rd h edd l e .

We ar e th en r ea dv to u se 3 2 ei gh t t im es .

B l oc k 1 0 is th e s a m e as bloc k 2 a nd i s r ep r es en te d by
th e com bi n a tion 1 2 . S inc e th e l a st th r ea d o f bl oc k 9 was
2 , we a r e r ea dy t o u se 2 1 fo u r ti m es .

B l ock 1 1 i s th e s a m e a s bl oc k 1 a nd i s r ep r es e nt e d by Fi g . 1 8 4— Unit l y z ed
to b e Ana
1 04 FOOTj-P O WER LO OM WEA V IN G

Fi g . 1 8 5— A P attern An al y si s
1 06 FO O T PO-
WER L O OM WEAV IN G '

f a b ric D r a f ts may be
. h a d fr om va ri ous so u rc es wi tho u t
th e wov en f a b ri c .

i s a great s a ti sf a c tion to th e ama teu r weav er t o b e

"

It
a bl e to b l oc k ou t th e d r a f t a t h a nd a n d t h u s k n ow be fo r e

th e l oom is t h r ea ded wh a t sor t of p a tt ern a c e r ta i n d r a ft

wi l l l ook l ik e wh en wov en .

. Fi g . is é Dra ft
—
of S oiomon
i
s D el igh t

Th e dr ft sh o wn i n 1 8 0 is kn o wn as S ol omo n
F ig s ’
a .

D el igh t . To b l oc k o u t th i s d r a ft fi r st s ec u r e a p i ec e of ,

p a p e r r u l ed i n ei gh t h ineh sq u a r e s A l on g th e l eft fed ge

-
.

wri te th e d ra ft as sho wn i n F ig 1 8 7 Th e fi r s t comb in a . .

-
1

t ion i s 1 4 Th er e a r e fou r th r ea ds i n th is combi n a ti on

-
.
,

b u t as a m a t te r of c onv en i enc e onl y t wo th r ea ds ar e sho wn

i n F ig 1 8 7 Th e 1 4 i s wri tt e n ; the sign
. .
-
b elo w i nd ic a t es
a no th e r 1 4 Ea c h s q u a r e 1epr esents a th r ea d
. T h e en
1
.

ti r e dr a f t i s wri tt en i n t h i s way Th er e i s n o obj ec tio n to .

u si ng the n u m be r Of th r ea d s sh oWn i n th e dr a ft
‘

Th i s .

si mply do ubl es the siz e of th e b locks .

1 87 —
B l ck ut
o o of Dra ft S l
,
o o mo n s D el i gh t
’

_
.

Th e dr aft is a ga i n wri tt e n a t th e top o f th e c h ec k ed

,

fou r sm a l l s q u a r es a r e fil l e d i n wi th a c ol or ed p enc il Fol

.

p a p e r I n F ig 1 8 7 ea c h v e rtic a l r ow of sq u a r es r ep r es en ts
. .
,
.

a wa rp t h r ea d ; l o wing a c ross th e p ap er ea ch tim e th at th e c ombi n a tion

To fi l l in th e bl ock s as sho wn i n F ig 1 8 7 begi n a t th e .
1 4 i s r ea c h ed a s q u a r e i s fi ll ed i n a s sh o wn a t a , h, c, d ,
-
, ,
-

-
Th e fi r s t combi n a tion a t th e l eft
u pp er l ef t h a n d c ern er ~ .
e, f
, an d g . F ig 1 8 7
. .

i s 1 4 , a nd th e fi r st c om bi n a tion a t
-
Th e Th e n ex t c omb in a tion at th e l ef t i s th e s ec ond
 B LOCK IN G O UT A PATTERN 10
N

Fi g . 1 89

Combi n a tio n a t th e top is 4 Th i s m ea n s th a t wh er e t h e th e c h e c k e d p a p e r, F ig 1 8 7

. . Thi s i s d on e to giv e t he
v e rtic a l a nd h orizon ta l t h r ea ds c ross , t he bl oc k i s col or e d wea v e r a b et te r id ea of th e p a tt ern
.

as sho wn a t h , i, j a n d k F ig 1 8 7 I n this way th e eh Any fou r h a r ii es s d r a f t m ay be wo rk ed o u t i n th is way

'

. . -
, .

t ir e p a tt ern i s bl ock ed ou t 0 11 th e sq u a re d p a p er a nd p ro a nd i s a m ea n s o f d et ec tin g m i st a k es so of ten m a d e i n

v i des a m ea n s by wh ic h th e wea v e r m ay get a g ood id ea Copy in g d r af ts Any mi s ta k e i n a d ra f t i s ea sily fo u nd
.

of th e p a tt e rn wi th ou t th r ead ing the e n ti re 10 0 111

, .
a nd may be m a d e righ t by th e on e wh o is ch eck i n g it ov er .

I t wil l be Ob s e rv ed th a t th e d ra f t i n F ig 1 8 6 h a s b een
.
Mak e p a t te rn s on ch eck ed p a p e r fo r F i gs . 1 88 a nd

r ep ea t e d a l on g th e l ef t sid e an d al so a c ros s th e top of

 Lin en Wea ve s
So new i s th e retu rn of wea vi ng th a t few a m a t eu rs
h a v e v en tu r e d to do m u c h i n th e way o f r ep rod uc i ng th e
ol d l in en wea v es so g e n er a l ly u s ed i n th e ea rly d ay s .

U nd er o rd in a ry c ond it ion s l in en th 1ead s a r e n o t i n

1

th e l ea s t d iffi cu l t t o s een ie from v a riou s d ea l e rs i n t ex ti l e

'

m a t eri a l s .

I t is a v e ry simpl e m a tt er to r a is e on e s own l in en ’

th u s m a k i ng th e l i n e n p roduc ts of th e 10 0 111 doubly i n t er

e s ti ng
. Th e a pp a r a tus n ec ess a ry t o th e b edd ing sc u tch ,

i ng , and spin n i ng of th e fl a x may b e p u rc h a s e d of th e

C om m u n ity S hop , Lockport I l l i noi s
,
.

Th e fol lo wi ng d r a fts a r e no t o nly s ui t a bl e to th e weav

i ng oi l in ens b u t a ny m a t e ri a l u s ed i n o th e r wea vings
-

m ay b e h er e us e d wi th gr ea t suc c e ss .

Ma rt h a Wa s h in g ton T o we l
Th ed r a ft sh o wn i n F ig . 1 90 i s th a t fo r . th e Ma ith a- Fi g . 1 91 —
Fi ni sh ed P attern . M rth a Wash ington
a . l
T owe .

Wa sh ingto n To wel .

Fi g . l OO—
M rth W sh i ng ton
a a a l
T owe . Dra f t of P attern
1 10 FO O T
-
PO WER L O OM WEAVI N G
’

T ra mp t rea dl e 4 a n d th e n tr ea dl e 3 .
L 1 41 tie t o th e
s eco nd tr ea dl e .

T r a mp t r ea dl e 5 and th e n tr ea dl e 3 .
4 2 4 tie to th e thi rd tr ea dl e
-
.

T r a mp t r ea dl e 5 a n d th en tr ea dl e 3 .
2 2 3 tie to th e fou rth t rea dl e
0
-
.

T r amp t r ea dl e 1 a nd th en tr ea dl e 3 . 1 2 t ie t o th e fi fth t rea dl e

-
.

Tr a mp tr ea dl e 1 and th en tr ea dl e 3 3 4 tie to th e si xth tr ea dl e

5
-
. .

1 1 ti m es
Tr a mp t r ea dl e 2 a nd th en t r ea dl e 3 .

T re a dlin g D r aft
T r a mp t r ea dl er
2 1 1 n d th e n t r ea dl e 3
5 .

O nl y one sh u t tl e i s u s ed .

Use th e doubl e tie u p as d es c ribe d o n p a ge 1 2 9

-
.

R ep ea t th is group ti m es

é e ts y R oss T owel

F ig 1 92 sho ws th e th r ea di ng d r a f t of th e B etsy R
TO11 el . Th i s 1 s a mos t inteiestin g fou 1 b a 1 n es s p a tt ern
1 - 1
.

Fig 1 93 i l l u str a t es th e fi nish ed p a tt e rn

th i s group j 3i n ti m es
. .

Fig . 1 94 sh o ws a n oth e r p a ttern m a d e by a sl igh

ch a n ge i n th e ord e r of t r ea dl in g T r a mp 1 th en 2 l
R6 ? t l m es
J
“

t h I S group 1 n h t
. 0

2 T r a mp 3 th e n 4

Any n u mb er of m odifi ed wea vin gs m ay be h a d by

ch a ngi n g th e ord e r of th e tr ea dli ng grou ps .

Fi g . 192 —
B et sy R os s T o we l . Draf t 0 1 P attern Molli e Pit ch e r T o w el

F ig 1 95 i l l u str a te s th e th r ea d ing d r a f t for th e Mol l i e

'

U se a No . 48 r eed ,
on e t h r ead to th e
d e n t , e xc ep ting .
.

t h e fi r s t a nd l as t t wo th ro ugh wh ic h two thr ea ds a r e P i tc h e r To wel Th e wea v e i s m os t inte r es ting an d in

.

d r awn FO1 wa rp u se th e N o 7 0 Jap S il k Atten tio n i s

.
1
. .
volv es th e u se of only one sh u ttl e as d oa l l th e oth e r li n en
c a l l ed t o th e nu mb e ri n g of th e h a rn es s es wea v es
Fig 1 9 6. is th e fi nis hed
p a tt e rn ob t a i n ed by fol l o wing
T ie- U p th e tr ea dli ng a s giv en a bov e wh il e F ig 1 9 7 sh o ws a n oth e r .
,

Th e t r ea dl es ar e ti e d a s fol lo ws p a ttern p rodu c e d by m a kin g a sl i gh t c h a nge i n th e ord er of

1 3 tie to th e fi r s t t r ea dl e tr ea dl in g
3 . .
 BETS Y R O SS TO WEL 111

F or wa rp , u se a N o 7 0 Jup S ilk
. . No . 48 r eed ; one
th r ea d to ea c h d en t , exc ep ti ng th e fi r st a nd l a s t th r ee i n to
wh ic h two th r ea ds a r e d ra wn .

T ie U p
-

Us e th e doubl e t ie s ugge s t ed on pa g e 1 3 0
-
u p, a s .

Ha rn ess es 1 , 2 a nd 4 tie to th e fi r s t tr ea dl e
, .

Ha rn ess es 1 2 a nd 3 t ie to th e s ec ond t r ea dl e
, , .
4 tim es
H a rn ess 5 tie to the th i rd t r ea dl e .

H a rn ess es 2 3 a nd 4 t ie t o th e fo u rth t r ea d l e
, , .

H a rn ess e s 1 3 a n d 4 tie t o th e fi fth t rea d l e

, , .

T r eadlin g D raft for Fig . 196

T ram p 1 th en
8 tim es
Tr am p 2 th e n
T ra m p 1 th en 3
T ra m p 4 th e n
4 t u n es
T ra m p 5 th e n 3
T ra m p 4 th en 3
Tr a mp 2 th e n
T r a mp 2 th e n
T ra m p 1 th e n 3
T ra m p 1 th en 3
T r am p 2 th en 3
T rum p 2 th en 3
T ra m p 5 th e n 3 tim es
Tr a m p 5 th e n 3
T r a mp 4 th e n 3
T r a mp 4 th en 3
T r amp 5 th e n 3
Tr a mp 5 th en 3
Fi g . 1 9 6— Molli e Pitch er Towel
112 FO O T PO -
WER L O OM WEA VIN G
Tr a mp 4 th e n 3
R ep ea t from b egin ni ng .

8 tim e s

1 tim es

ti m e s

Fi g . 1 97 —
M l l i P it
o e r
ch e l
T o we

F ig . 1 95 —
Dra ft fo r M lli Pit
o e r
ch e T o we l
1 14

T rea dlin g D ra ft
FO O T P O -
WER L O OM
W EAVI N G

T ra mp 5 th en (i 3 tim es
T r a mp 3 th e n 2
4 tim es Tr a m p 3 th en 2
Tr a m p 5 th en (3 3 t im e s
T r a mp 1 th en 4
T ra m p 1 th e n 2
tim es Tr a m p 4 th e n 3
T ra m p 2 t h en 1
t u n es

T r am p 3 th en 4
T r a mp 1 th en 4
Rep ea t f rom b egi nn in g .

I
Fig 2 0 0
.
— ~
Ms '
a nd o
'
s .

9
v
h
1 Dra f t Of P atter“ Fi g . 2 01 —
C om pl eted P attern Fi g 2 03 —
C om p l eted P attern
, .

Ms '
and o
’
s of Fi g . 2 02

M s and O s ’ ’

H a rn ess es 1 a nd
Th e sho r t th r ea ding d r a f t sh o wn i n F ig 2 0 0 i s k no w
3 ar e ti e d to th e thi rd t rea dl e
n
.

H a rn ess es 2 an d 4 ti ed t o fo urth t r ea dl e
.

ar e th e
i n K e nt uc ky as M s a nd o s
’ ’ .

U s e co tt on for th e wa rp and a n u m be r 2 0 l i n e n fo r
,
T re a dlin g D r aft
th e fill er . The 2 / 2 0 c otton u nbl ea ch ed u s ed i n th e coun ter T r a m p fi r s t t wo t r ea dl e s eigh t tim es a l t e rn a t ely th en ,
p a n es i s s ui t abl e fo r th is p a tt ern F ig 2 0 1 sh o ws th e fi n
. .
3 a nd 4 t r ea d l es eigh t tim es a l t ern a t ely a l way s b egi nni n g ,
ish ed p at t ern .
at th e righ t .

F ig 2 02 sh o ws a mod ifi ed d r a f t of th e M s a n d 0 s
.
’ ’
.

F ig.2 03 sho ws t h e fi n ish ed p i ec e of work

_
.

Th e wea v er m u st r em emb er th a t th e h orizon ta l d i

mensions i n weavi ng d ep e n d u pon th e nu mb e r of tim es
Fi g . 2 02 —
Mod ifi ed Dr af t in Ms
’
an d o
’
s c e rt a i n th r ea ds a r e r ep ea te d i n th e d r af t Th e v ertic a l .

d im ension s d ep end u pon th e n umb er of ti m es c ert ai n

“

trea dl es a r e p r ess ed d o wn Thi s i s v er y c l ea rly d em on

T h e T ie-U p
.

s tr a ted i n th e mod ifi ed d r a ft .

H a rn es s es 3 a nd 4 ar e ti ed to th e fi r s t t r ea dl e . O nly one sh ut tl e is u s ed a s n o b ind er i s n ecess a ry ,

H a rn ess es 1 a nd 2 a r e t i e d to th e s ec on d tr ea dl e . in a ny of th e l in en wea v es .
 CHAP T E R V I

D anish a nd N o r we gian Wea v ing .

La mb s 2 a nd 4 tie th e fi r s t
Ways of E x pr essin g D an is h Pa tt ern s
to t rea d l e .

La mbs 1 a nd 3 t ie to th e s ec on d t r ea d l e
h as
.

It be en st a t e d a l r ea dy th a t n o a tt emp t h a s b een
La mbs 1 a nd 2 tie to th e thi rd trea dl e .

m ad e to m a k e th is m a n u a l t ec h n ic a l Th e pl a n i s to k eep
Th e o rd e r i n wh ic h th e t r ea dl es ar e p r ess ed d o wn i s
.

e v e ry p a t t er n s impl e a n d t o t el l of i ts e x ec u tio n i n a s
i ndic a t ed by th e st a rs o n th e v e rtic a l l i n es j us t to the
sim p l e a way as possi bl e
ri gh t of th e wov en p a tt e rn T r ea d l e N o 3 is p r es s ed do wn
.

Th e D a n es S wed es a nd N or wegi a ns h a v e c a rri ed

. .

, ,
fi r s t, th e n t r ea dl e N o 2 , th e n b a c k to N o 3 , n ex t N o 1 ,
wea vi ng on th e foo t po we r l oom to a h igh d egr ee of
. . .

a n d th e n b a ck t o No 3 et c
jfic icncy Th e wo rk i s c a rri e d 0 11 to a v e ry gr ea t ext en t
. .
- ,
t
-

i n th e h om es Thi s is l a rgel y d u e to th e f a c t th a t th e gov

.
F i gu r e 2 0 5 sh o ws th e d ra f t a nd a wov e n s a m pl e for a
t wo h a rn ess l oo m Ea c h h o ri zon t a l l i n e a bov e t he wov e n
er nm ents o f th es e c ou n t ri es e ncou r a g e wea vi ng as a h o m e
.

i ndu stry Ea c h o f th es e c ou n tri es h a s i ts own way of

.
‘
p a t tern st a nd s fo r a p a i r of h eddl e s tic ks ( h a rn es s ) Ea c h .

writi ng a nd r ea d ing d r a fts I t is the p u rp os e o f thi s ma n

.
v er t ic a l l i n e st a nds fo r a tr ea dl e Th i s d ra ft is th r ead ed
.

u a l t o giv et o a m a t e u r wea v e rs a n ex pl a n a t ion of th e wa y

i n the fol lo win g way
ea c h of th e th r ee n a tion a l i ti e s wri t es a n d i nt e rp r e ts i ts Th e fi r s t th r ea d p a ss es th rough th e eye of th e h eddl e
d r a fts .
o n th e fi r st p a i r of h eddl e s tick s Th e s econ d th r ea d p a ss es
.

R e a din g a D raft th rough th e eye of th e h ed dl e o n the s ec ond p a i r o f h eddl e

F igu r e 2 04 sh o ws a fou r h a m ess p a tt ern wov e n by
-
stick s Ea c h tim e a h eddl e i s t h r ea d ed i t i s p u sh ed a l on g
.
,
.

u s in g th re e t r ea dl e s T he l o we r h eddl e s ticks a r e t i ed o ne
.
The t h i rd th r ea d p a ss es th rou gh th e eye of th e h eddl e on

to ea c h l a mb .
th e th i rd h edd l e st ic k a nd i s p u sh ed a l on g Th e fou rth .

Th e t r ea d l es a r e ti ed a s i ndic a t e d by th e st a rs p l a c ed th rea d p a ss e s th rou gh the eye of th e fi r st h edd l e o n th e

o n th e h ori zont a l l i n es j u s t t o th e righ t of th e th r eadin g .
fou rth h eddl e s tick a nd i s p ush ed a l on g Th e fifth th r ea d
.

Th e tie u p is in t e rp r et ed as fol l o ws
-
goe s b a ck t o th e fi r st h ed dl e stic k a n d i s th r ea d ed th rou gh
116 FO O T P O —
WEI B L O OM WEA VIN G

Fi g . 2 04 F ig . 2 05 Fi g . 2 06 Fi g . 2 07

th e eye of th e s ec on d h eddl e a nd i s p u sh ed a l ong: Th e

-
t ie -
u p, c h t im e a t r ea dl e i s p r ess ed do wn one h a l f th e
ea ,
-

th r ea d in g con ti n u es th e s a m e as th e fi r s t fou r th r ea ds th e ,
th r ea d s a r e d r awn d o wn Th i s p r a c tic a l ly do es wh a t two
.

o rd er b cin g l , 2 3 4 Th i s i s c on ti nu e d u nti l th e d esi r ed

-
, ,
. h a rn ess es woul d do B y u sin g fou r s e ts th e th r ead s a r e
.

numb e r of th r ea d s h a s b ee n th r ea d ed . not c ro wd e d so c l os ely toge th e r Th e st a rs pl a c e d 0 11 th e

.

I t wi l l b e obs erv ed t h a t only t wo t r ea dl es a r e us ed v ertic a l l in e s t o t h e righ t of t h e wov e n s a mpl e i nd ic a t e th e

wh il e th er e a r e fou r h a rn ess es for pl a i n wea v in g Th e l e .
1
o rd er i n wh ic h th e t r ea dl es ar e to b e p r ess e d do wn .

g inn e r m igh t ask why u s e fou r h a rn ess e s wh e n two m igh t F ig 2 0 6 sh o ws a som ewh a t ch eck ed m a t eri a l
. To p 1 o~ .
1

a ns wer t h e p u rpos e I f any gr ea t n u mb e r of th r ea ds i s to

. d uc e th i s p a tt e rn th e wa rp is m a d e u p of bl u e a nd wh i t e
he u s ed i n pl a i n wea vi n g i t i s b e tt er to u s e fou r h a rn ess es
,
t hr ea ds Th e th r ead i ng i s don e th e s am e a s i n F ig 2 05
. .
,

ins te a d of t wo th r ea d ing as a bov e d esc rib e d

,
. b u t fi r s t t wo bl u e an d th e n two wh it e th r ea ds a r e t h r ead ed
u n ti l th e en ti r e n u m be r of th r ea ds h as b ee n u s ed Wh en
_
.

T yin g th e Tr eadl e
weav ing t wo bl u e th r ea d s a r e u s ed a n d th e n t wo wh it e
,
.

I t wi l l b e ob semied th a t th e l o we r h eddl e stic k s2 a nd Th i s n ec e ssit a t es th e u se of two sh u ttl es I t i s a l so u nd e r

.

4 a r e t i ed to th e righ t tr ea dl e a n d 1 a n d 3 t o t h e l ef t
"

,
stoo d th a t wh en p r ep a rin g th e wa rp ch a i n th e spool s of ,

tr ea d l e Th i s i s i n di c a t e d by th e s t a rs pl a c ed o n th e ver wa rp a r e so p l a c e d on th e spool r a ck th a t t wo bl u e a n d
“

ti c a l l i n es to th e righ t of th e th rea din g d r a ft Wi th th is

‘

. two wh it e th r ea d s a r e r eel ed 0 1 wa rp ed a t o n e tim e

1
The .
1 18 FO O T P O
-
WER L O O M WEA VIN G

Fi g . 21 2 Fi g . 213 F ig . 214 Fi g . 215

F igu r e 2 1 0 sh o ws a s erge Th e wa rp a nd woof sh ou l d

.
T hi s p a t t e rn i s com m only k no wn a s th e G oos e Eye “
.

be of woo l . Th r ea di ng a nd tie u p a r e as i nd ic a t e d i n th e
—
Th e th r ea di n g a nd tr ea dl i ng a r e don e as i ndic a t ed T wo .

d ra f t
. th r ea ds ar e d r awn th rou gh ea c h d e n t .

F igu r e 2 1 1 s h o ws a no th e r s erge wea v e .

F igu r e 2 1 4 sh o ws a c a nv a s wea v e Th e t hr ea ding is
.

F i gu r e 2 1 2 sho ws a p a t te rn wov e n on a si x t rea dl e don e th e s am e as i n p r evio u s p a tt erns Th e l ittl e c i rc l e

.

l oom Th e m e th od of h a ndl i n g m or e th a n fou r h a rn ess es

.
pl a c ed b el o w a nd be t ween th e group s of th r ead sonly i nd i
wi l l b e t r ea t ed a l it tl e l a t er I t is a v e ry in t er estin g wea v e
. .
c a t es th a t a d en t i n th e r eed i s to b e om i tt ed a n d h as n o
wh ich m ay b e u s ed fo r wi nt e r c o a ts Th e wa rp an d woof
.
r ef er en c eto th e th r ea di ng of th e p a tt ern .

a r e of woo l Two th rea ds a r e dra wn th rough ea c h d en t of

I t wi l l b e obs erv ed th a t th e th r ea ds a r e ingrou ps , fou r
.

th e reed . N ot e the i rr egul a r way i n wh ic h t h e t rea dl es

in ea c h Ea c h grou p of fou r t h r ea d s i s d r awn th rou gh
“

a r e p r e ss ed do wn .
.

F i gu r e 2 1 3 sh o ws a n in t er es tin g weav e to b e u s ed i n v ry oth e r d en t of th e r ee d I n o th e r words ev ery oth er

e e .
,
.

to wel s Th e d a rk v ertic a l s trip e sh o ws a n u mb er of col

.
d en t of th e r ee d i s l eft v a ca n t Th e th r ea ds on h eddl e
.

, ,

or ed th r ea ds r eel ed i n th e wa rp , wh i l e th e h o rizon t a l d a rk stick s 1 a nd 2 m a k e one grou p a n d th e th r ead s on h edd l e

stri p e i n dic a t es th a t th e s a m e col o r i s u s ed as woo f .
sti ck s 3 a n d 4 m a k e a noth e r group Thi s i s c l ea rly sh own
.
 N O R WE G IAN PATTERN S 119

Fi g . 216 Fi g . 217 Fi g . 21 3 Fi g . 21 9

i n th e d ra ft . Wh e n wea v ing , th e fi r s t a nd fo u rth woo t

’

th r ea d e d a nd ti ed u p th e s a m e a s oth e r p a tt e rn s ,
th e
th r ea ds a r e to be doubl e . m eth od of h a n gi ng th e h a rn e ss es i s som ewh a t d i ff er en t a nd

sh o ws a v e ry i n t e re s tin g c u rt a i n m a t e ri a l
F igu r e 2 1 5 Wi l l b e t a k en “P i n d e t a il a l i t tl e l a t er .

wov en by u si n g fou r h a rn e ss e s a nd th r ee tr ea d l es
N or we g ian Pa tt erns
.

Th e pl a i n s tri p e i s sho wn i n th e fi r s t p a r t of th e Th e th r ee p a t t e rn s wh i c h fol lo w sh o w th a t th e D a ni sh

th r ea d in g d ra ft Thi s n umb e r o f t h r ea d s m ay b ei nc r ea s ed
.
a nd N o r wegi a n wa y s o f wri tin g p a tt e rn s a r e v e ry m uc h
so a s to m a k e a ny wi d t h d esi r ed Th e c los ely wov en b a nds
.

the s am e .

a t t h e edg es of t h e pl a i n s tri p e a r e ob t a i n ed by d ra wi ng
F i gu r e 2 2 0 sh o ws a v ery i nt e r es tin g p a t te rn an d d r a f t
t wo th r ea d s th rou gh ea c h ( l en t .

wh ic h m a y b e p rodu c ed on a fou r h a rn es s l oo m , u si ng eigh t

-

Th e op e n work i s p rod u c ed by d r a wi n g t h e th r ee t r ea d l e s . I n r eel in g th e wa rp ei gh t th rea d s o f o ne col or

,

th r ead s h el d tog et h e r a t th e b a s e th rou gh a si ngl e ( l en t

, ,
.
a r e u s e d ( s ay bl u e ) a nd th e n eigh t th r ea d s o f wh i t e . Two
Th e sm a l l c i rcl es b t wee n th e grou ps i nd ic a t e a ( l e n t to b e
e
th r ea d s a r e d r a wn th rou gh th e eye of ea c h h eddl e a nd
om it t ed Th e t ie u p a nd t r ea d li n g a r e d on e a s i nd ic a t ed
.
-
’

a l so th rou gh ea ch d e n t of th e reed . Th e woof th r ea d i s

in th e d ra ft.
a l so wo un d d oubl e o n t h e bobbi n s so th a t ea c h tim e t h e

I n F igs 2 1 6 2 1 7 2 1 8 a nd
.
, ,
2 19 giv en ex am p l es of
ar e sh u ttl e p a ss e s th roug h t he s h e d t wo th r ea d s a r e c a rri ed
fiv e a nd si x h a rn e ss p a tt e rn s . \Vh il e th e s e d ra fts a r e a t t h e s a m e tim e .
1 20 FO O T P O
—
WER L O OM WEA V IN G
A

Th e h orizont a l p a r a l l el l in es r ep r es en t th e h a rn ess es,

th r ee bl u e a nd o ne wh i t e . Ea c h th rea d p a ss es th rough
wh ic h a r e th e s a m e a s h eddl e s tick s Th e v ert ic a l p a r a l l el
.
th e eye of ah ed dl e a nd only one
,
th r ea d to each d en t of .

l in es r ep r es en t th e tr ea dl es Th e st a rs i n dic a t e th e way
.
th e r eed . Wh en weavi ng th r ee ,
bl u e woof th r e a ds a r e
th e t r ea dl es a r e ti ed to th e l a mbs Th e l i ttl e d a sh es o n
.

wov en an d t h en On e wh i t e.

th e v ertic a l l i n es i ndi c a t e th e ord e r i n wh ic h th e tr ea d l es

I n wa rpin g fo r th e p a t t ern sh o wn in F ig 2 2 2 two
a r e p r ess e d d own . Thi s ord er of t r ea d l ing i s c on ti nu e d
u n ti l th e d esi r e d a mou n t of f a bric i s wov e n .
b l u e and two wh i t e th r ea ds a r e wa rp ed a t th e s a m e t im e .

Th e th r ea din g i s don e by th r ead ing sin gl y t wo bl u e and

F igu r e 2 21 sho ws p a tt e rn i n wh i c h th e r eel in g i s
a
th e n t wo wh i t e, i n dic a t ed i n th e d r a ft T wo th r ea ds
don e by ru n ni ng th r ee b l u e th r ea ds a nd one wh i t e th r ea d as .

o n th e b ea m Th e e nti r e wa rp i s m a d e u p i n t hi s way,
. ar e dr awn t h rou gh ea c h d e n t of th e r eed .

F ig . 221 Fi g . 2 22
122 FO O T P O-
WER L O OM l VEAVI N G
f

p a ss es th rou gh th e of eye h eddl e On th e fi r s t

th e fi r s t 1
01

fron t h eddl e stick s .

Th e e n ti re d r a f t is th r ea d ed by fol lo wi ng t hi s o rd er :
Fi g 2 23
Th e l am b s a r e ti ed one to ea c h l o we r h eddl e stick
.

;
Th e p a tt ern i nd ic a t es a c c ordi ng t o th e l i t tl e d o t s th a t t h e
fo u rth l a mb i s ti ed to th e fi r st tr ea dl e t he s econ d l a mb is ,

ti ed t o th e s econ d t r ea dl e, th e th i rd l a mb i s ti e d t o t h e
thi rd tr ea dl e, a nd th e fi r s t l a m b i s t i e d to th e fou rth
tr ea dl e .

Th e fi gu r es j u st b elo w th e dot s i n dic a t e th a t th e tr ea Fi g . 224

dl es a r e p r ess ed do wn i n th e ord e r of fi r s t 1 , th en 2 , 3
a nd 4 . Th i s ord e r of tr ea dl in g i s k ep t u p u nti l th e d e
si r ed a m ou n t of m a t e ri a l i s wov en ;
I n Fig 2 2 7 i s sh o wn th e s a m e th r ead i ng bu t a ( l if
.
,

fer en t ord e r of ty in g .

La mbs 1 a nd 2 a r e ti e d to t he fi r s t tr ea d l e I a mb S . J

Fi g . 225
1 an d 3 a r e ti ed to th e s ec on d tr ea dl e La mbs 1 a nd 2 .

a r e ti e d to th e th i rd tr ea dl e La mb s 2 an d 4 a r e t i ed to
.

th e fo u r th t rea dl e .

Th e ord e r of p r essing th e tr ea dl es is sho wn by th e

,
r

fi g u r es .

I n F ig 2 2 9 th e th r ea d in g i s the s a m e as i n
. th e two
p r eviou s p a tt ern s Th e l a mb s a r e ti ed as fol lo ws
.
Fi g . 226

1, 3 a nd 4 to th e fi r s t
t r ea d l e .

2 an d 3 to th e s ec on d t r ea dl e .

1, 2 a nd 3 to th e thi rd t r ea dl e .

2 a n d 4 t o th e fou r th tr ea dl e . Wh il e th is
p a tt ern r eq u i r es tr ea dl es th er e wi ll b e
,

1 t o th e fifth tr ea dl e d itticifl ty i n u nd erst a ndin g t h e t ie h p

-
. 11 0 .

2 to th e six th t r ea dl e . F igu r e 2 2 9 s h o ws th e s a m e th r ea di ng a nd t wo wa v s
 S WEDI SI I PATTERNS 1 3

T h e fi r s t sh o ws ea c h l o wer h edd l e s tic k ti ed

”
of “
tie up
-
.

to a t r ea dl e I n s uch c a s e tr ead l es 1 a n d 4 a r e p r ess e d

.

do wn t h e fi r s t t im e i n dic a t ed by th e two o n es Th e n ex t
, .

Fi g . 2 27 ti m e tr ea d l es 1 a nd 2 a r e p r es s e d d o wn a t th e s a m e t im e
. ,

i nd ic a t ed by th e t wo t wos? T h e thi rd tim e tr ea d l es 2 a nd

3 a r e p r ess ed d o wn i n dic a t ed by th e t wo th r ees
, Th e .

fo u r th ti m e t r ea dl es 3 a nd 4 a r e p r ess e d do wn i n d ic a t ed
-
,

by th e two fou rs A ft e r fol lo wi ng thi s o rd e r onc e i t is

.

gon e righ t ov e r a ga i n a nd con tin u e d u n ti l t h e d esi r e d

a m o un t of m a t e ri a l i s wov en .

Th e oth e r ty in g gi v e s ex a c tl y th e s a m e r es ul t b ec a us e
o f th e f a c t th a t t wo l a m bs a r e ti e d to o ne t r ea dl e T hi s .

Fi g . 2 28
l a t te r pl a n i s b e tt er a nd m a k e s i t possibl e to a cc om pli sh
m u c h gr ea t e r r esu l ts in th e a m ou n t o f f ab ri c s wov en
'
.

I n th e n ex t fou r pa t ter ns 2 3 0 to 2 3 3 i ncl u siv e, th e

,

th r ea di n g i s th e s a m e as in p r evi ou s p a t t e rn s The t r ea d .

l i n g i s do n e by fol l o wi n g th e o rd e r of n u mb e rin g .

I n Fig 2 3 2 th e n u mb e r 5 m ea n s th a t th e thi rd t r ea dl e
.

i s to be p r ess e d do wn a nd n u m b e r 6 i nd ic a t es th e s econ d
,

t r ea dl e p r ess ed do wn .

I n Fig 2 3 4 t h e th re ad in g is don e t h e s a m e as i n the

.

t wo h a rn ess l oo m d r a f t sh o wn i n F ig 2 2 4
-
. .

Irr eg ul ar T h rea din g

In F ig i s sh o wn t h e fi r s t i rr egul a r th r ea d ing
. 235 .

Th e fi r s t th r ea d p a ss es th ro u gh th e fi r s t h eddl e on t h e
fou rth h ed dl e s tic k th e s econ d th re a d p as s es th rough th e
,

fi rst h eddl e o n th e thi rd h eddl e stic k , th e th i rd th r ea d go es

'

b a ck to th e s econ d h eddl e on the fou r th h eddl e s tick th e ,

124 FO O T PO -
WER L O OM WEA V IN G
fo u rth th r ea d to th e s econ d h eddl e on th e th ird h eddl e
stic k , th e fifth th r ead th rou gh th e fi r s t h eddl e on th e sec
on d h eddl e stic k , th e s ix th th r ea d th ro ugh th e fi r st h eddl e
0 11 th e fi r s t h eddl e st ic k , th e s ev e nth th r ea d t h rough t h e mg: 230 .

s ec on d h e ddl e o n th e s ec on d h e ddl e stic k , a nd th e eigh th

th r ead th rough th e s ec on d h edd l e on th e fi r s t h eddl e s tick .

I n F ig 2 3 6 i s sho wn a no th e r i rr egul a r th r ea d i ng ; fi r st
.

b et ween th e 3 r d a nd 4 th h edd l e s a nd th e n b e t ween th e l s t

a nd 2 n a O bs e rv e th e groupi ng of th e t r ea dli ng
. .

Th e l ambs a r e ti e d a s in<l ica ted by th e dots _

Th e .

t r ea dl e s ar e pr ess ed do wn a s ind ic a t ed by the fi g u r es . Th e Fi g . 2 31

fi r st tim e tr ea dl e 1 i s p r ess ed do wn T h e n ex t N o 2 , t h e
. .

th ird t im e N o 1 a ga i n th e fo u rth tim e N o 2 a ga in Th e

.
,
. .

fifth t ime N o 1 Th e n ex t fi ve ti m es a r e b et wee n t r ea dl es

. .

3 a nd 4 . Th e n ex t go es b a ck t o th e fi r st a nd s e con d t r ea
dl es Th is ord e r i s k ep t up u n til th e d esi r e d a m ou n t of
.

m a t eri a l i s wov en .

F i g u r e 2 3 7 sho ws wh a t i s kno wn a s th e H o n ey C omb

“

Weav e ” Th ere wi l l be no d ifficu l ty in u nd e rst an di ng th e

.

th r ea d i ng Th e fi r st fou r teen th r ea d s a r e o n th e th ird

.

a nd fou rth h a rn es s es T h e se co nd fo u rt een t h r ea d s a r e on

.

th e fi r st a nd s econ d h a rn ess es To p roduc e th e effec t sh o wn

.

i n th e fi nish ed p a tt e rn the e n ti r e wa rp i s th r ea d ed j us t as
sho wn i n th e d r a ft I f a v a ri a tion i s d e si r e d th e l oo m m ay
.

b e th r ea d ed so si x i nc h es wil l be th e s a m e as sho wn i n t h e
fi nish ed p a t te rn A fou r i nc h s trip e m ay b e th r ea ded by
.
-

F ig 2 3 3
.

d ra wi ng 2 8 th r ea d s th ro ugh th e h eddl es o n th e th i rd a nd
four t h h a rn ess es a nd th e n 2 8 o n th e fi r st a n d s ec on d Thi s .

i s c on ti nu ed u ntil th e d esi r e d width is ob ta i n ed Th e n ex t .

1 26 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEA V IN G

F ig . 2 40

Fi g . 2 37

Fi g . 2 41

Fi g . 2 42

Fi g . 2 39

Fi g . 243
 THREE -
HARN ESS S WED I SH PATTERNS 1 27

p a t t ern k n o wn a s th e G o o s e Ey ej
“
‘ _
Obs erv e th e ord er of
’

t r ea d li n g Th e t r ea d l es a r e p r e ss ed do wn i n th ei r o rd e r
.

f rom 1 to 4 , th e n b a c k to 1 , i nd ic a t ed by th e n u mb er 5 ;
b a ck t o t h e fou rt h i nd ic a t ed by th e n um b e r 8 ; b a c k t o
nu mb e r 1 fo r th e thi rd tim e indic a t ed by th e n u mb e r 9
,
.

Th e s econd ch a n g e c on si sts o f th e r ev ers e o rd e r o f

t r ea d l i ng.

F ig u r e 2 4 2 sh o ws a fou r h a r ncss p a tt e rn wh ic h m ay
- Fi g . 2 45

be a ccompl ish ed by u si ng fou r t r ea dl e s or eigh t t r ea dl es

‘

O bs e rv e th e d i ff e r enc e i n th e t ie u p I f fou r tr ea dl es a r e
-
.

p r ess ed do wn i n t h e i r r egu l a r ord e r , 1 to 4 .

t tim e t rea dl es 1 , 2 a nd 3 a r e a ll p r es s e d
,

s a m e ti m e T hi s i s i nd ic a t ed by th e th r ee
.

Tr ea d l es 1 2 , an d 4 a r e n ex t p r ess ed do wn , indic a t e d
,

by th r ee t wos .

Th e n ex t ti m e tr ea dl es 1 , 3 a nd 4 an d th e n ex t 2 , 3
a nd 4 .

I f eigh t t rea dl e s a r e u s ed a n d t i e d as i n dic a t ed th e

work i s m or e r a p idly c a rri ed 0 11 .

F igu r e 2 4 3 sho ws a fou r h a rn ess loom The p a tt e rn

-
.

i s a c c ompl i sh ed by ty ing a nd t r ea dl ing a s i nd ic a t ed i n

th e d ra ft .

Th re e Ha m ess D raft
-

Th e m a t e u r wea v er by th is tim e h as n o do ub t ga in ed
a

s u ffi cie nt kno wl e dge o f t he t wo a nd fou r h a rn e ss d ra f ts no t-

“ ”
on ly to do th e th r ea d ing s uc c essfu lly b u t al so to tie u p -

fo r a y pattet n d esi r ed
n ‘
O c c a sion a l ly a d ra ft a pp ea rs
.
128 FO O T P O -
WER LO OM WEA VIN G
wh ic h i s wri t te n i n th r ee h a rn ess es , sh o wn i n Fig 2 1 5 as . .

Wh en su ch is the c a s e th e upp er h ed dl e s tick s ar e ti ed as

_
'

sh own i n F ig 2 4 4 Th e ty i ng of th e tr ea dl es i s th e s a m e
'

. .

as fo r p a tter n s a l r ea dy d esc rib ed .

Fi g . 248

F igu r e 2 4 5 sh o ws th e W ay fi ve h a rn ess es a r e ti ed .

F i g u re 2 4 6 sh o ws th e tie u p for a six h a rn ess d ra ft

- -

a n d F ig 2 4 7 sh o ws th et ie u p for s ev en h a rn es s es
.
-
Any of .

th e a bov e may be ti ed as sh own i n F ig 2 53 Th e . .

.

p ul l ey s u s e d m ay b e p u rch ased of a ny d ea l er i n h a rd wa r e
o r may be m a d e Of wood , b eing t a nn ed on a woo d l a th e .

F igu r e 2 4 8 sh o ws a pl a i n d i a gon a l wea v e i n th r ee Fig . 249

h a rn ess es Th e th r ea d ing i s sim pl e a nd th e tie u p co n si sts

.
-

i n ty ing a t r ea dl e to ea c h l o we r h eddl e stic k

Th e dr a w i ng sh o wn i n F ig 2 4 4 sh o ws th e way th e .

u pp er h eddl e s tick s a r e ti ed .

F igu r e 2 4 9 sh o ws a th r ea ding q u it e d iff er en t f rom

th a t sho wn i n Fig 2 4 8 . .

Th e fi r st th r ea d i s dr a wn th rough th e eye of th e fi r s t
h eddl e on th e thi rd h eddl e stick , th e s econ d th r ea d th rou gh
th e eye of th e fi r st h eddl e o n th e s econd h eddl e stick , th e
th i rd th r ea d go es b a c k to th e eye of th e s eco nd h eddl e on
th e th i rd h eddl e s tick .

Th e n ex t th r ee th r ea ds a r e o n h eddl e s tick s 1 an d 2 .

F igu r e 2 50 sho ws th e d r a f t a nd s a mpl e of a n i n t er es t

i ng c u rt a i n m a t eri a l .

S kip th en d r aw the th r ee th r ea ds on
d en t and
"

o ne
Th e th r ea din g i s don e by foll o win g th e dr a ft Th e .

th r ea d s o n h a rn ess es 1 an d 2 m a k e th e p l a i n wea v e Th e .
h eddl e sticks 2 and 3 th rough the s a m e d en t .

som ewh a t i rr egul a r th r ea ding m a k es th e strip e . S kip a d en t a nd th en d r a w th e on e th r ea d on th e fi r s t

Wh en th rea di n g th e r eed d raw one th rea d th rough h eddl e sticks th rough a d en t , skip a d en t and dr aw th r ee,
ea ch d ent for th e pl a i n strip e .
skip d r aw one, skip and dr aw th r ee etc
, ,
.
130 FO O T -
PO WER L O O M WEA VI N G
in th e con stru c ti on of the loom Th e l oom sh o ul d b e a bou t
.

fou r i nc h es h i gh e r i n o rd er to gi v e s u ffi cien t sp a c e fo r th e
two s ets of l a mbs Thi s m ay b e b rough t a bou t by a ddin g
.

a fo u r i nc h pi ec e to ea c h l eg of t h e l oom F o r a l l ord in a ry
-
.

p u rpos es th e origin a l work in g d ra wi n g of th e l oom ah

s wer s a l l c ond ition s B y u si ng th i s met h od th e h eddl e
'

h ors es a r e don e away wi th a nd ea c h h a r ne ss i s t i ed so i t

m u s t p u l l ei th er up o r do wn wh en p r ess ur e i s a ppl i ed t o
th e tr ea dl e .Th e rol l er ov er wh ic h th e h e ddl e hors es a r e
h u ng i s r emov e d and r epl a c ed by th e a pp a r a tu s sho wn a t
A a nd B , F ig 2 53 . A d et a i l ed s ec tio n i s sho wn a t F ig
. .

2 54 . I f a n eigh t h a rn ess l oom i s d esi r ed , si x t ee n p i ec es

-

ar e con stru ct ed a s sh o wn i n F ig 2 5 4 E igh t of th es e ar e

. .

pl a c ed to th e righ t u pp e r h a l f of th e l oom a nd th e o th er
-

ei gh t to th e l eft upp e r h a l f Th e v a riou s s ec tion s a r e h el d

.

i n p l a c e by a h a l f i nc h ( l o wel ro d as sh o wn a t 1 a nd 2
-
,

Th e rods a r e su pport e d by t wo p i ec es of 7 8
"
F ig 2 53
. .
-

m a pl e c o nstruc t e d a s sh o wn i n F ig 2 55 Th is sort of
"

. .

f r a m e work r epl a c es th e rol l er as sh o wn i n th e fi nish e d

l oo m in Fig 2 5 6 . .

T he T ie U p
-

Retu rni ng to F ig 2 53 l oops of No 1 2 b lock n g c o rd

.
, . i

a r e ti ed a n d h u ng f rom ea c h ou t e r en d of t he l ev ers as

sho wn a t C a n d D i n Fig 2 53 T wo ends of th e co rd a r e

. .

f a st en ed to ea c h en d of t h e upp er h eddl e stick s a s sh o wn ,

a t E and F Th e loop s a n d e nds a r e ti ed j us t th e s a m

. e

a s t h e tr ea dl es a r e ti ed to t h e l a mbs F rom th e i nn e r en ds
.
 El GU T I l A RX ES S
-
S ll EDI SI I
’
PATTERNS 131

of the l ev ers H a nd G,
p i ec e of bl oc kin g c ord i s ti ed , one
a p a tt ern a r e d r a wn do wn wh i l e th e oth er h a rn ess es a r e
en d to o ne a nd th e o th e r en d to th e o th e r a s sh o wn F rom
, .
d ra wn u p N 0 p a rt r em a i n s st a tion a ry The weigh ts pr e
.
.

ea c h loop a pi e c e of blockin g c ord e x t e nd s to t h e l o we r s e t v io u sly m e n ti on e d fo r d r a wi ng th e h a rn e ss es b a c k i n pl a c e

of l a m bs by p a ss ing b e t wee n th e h a rn ess a nd ti es th e s a m e a r e n o lon ge r n e c e ss a ry . F ig 2 53 sh o ws on ly a fo u r

.

a s a l l ot h e r con n ec tion s h a v e b ee n m a d e Ea c h l o wer

.
tr ea dl e l oom Th i s i s don e to a void c om pl ic a tion i n t h e
.

h eddl e s tic k ti es to a n u pp er l a mb t h e s a m e a s in the t wo e xpl a n a tion . Any n u mb er m ay b e u s e d Th i s m e th od of .

a n d fo u r h a rn e ss loom s
-
Loo ps of bl ock in g c o rd a r e now
.
t ie u p i s esp ec i a l ly d esi r a bl e wh e n a n od d n u mb er o f b e d
-

d r a wn th rough th e h ol e s of t he t rea d l es one i n ea ch The

, . cl l e stick s
( h a rn ess e s ) i s u s ed I t d o e s a wa y wi th p ul l e y s
.

a nd h ed dl e h ors es F ig 2 5 6
. . Th e f a c t th a t ea ch p a r t o f
,

th e h a rn ess m u s t ei th e r p ul l u p or d o wn m a k es a m os t

p e rf ec t sh ed th u s a voi din g the sk ippi ng of th r ea ds , so

,

comm on i n wea vi ng wh e n th e sh e d i s no t p e rf ec t .

Fi g . 2 54 F igu r e 2 57 sh o ws a v e ry i nt e r es tin g p a tt e rn p rod u c e d

by e i th e r fi ve o r si x h a rn e ss e s Th e t ie u p fo r ea ch i s gi v en
.
-

u pp e r l a m bs a r e ti ed to th e tr ea dl es th e s a m e as i n ev ery i n th e d r a ft .

t he co rd p a ssin g b et wee n th e l o we r l a mbs

”
o th r
e
“
t ie u p
-
, . The ord er o f tr ea d l i ng i s ind i a ted by th e fig u r es j u st
1

Th e l o we r l a mbs a r e a l so ti ed to th e trea d l e s by u sing th e b lo w th e dots ind ic a ting th e tie up

e
“ -
.

l oops n o t u s ed i n ty i ng the u pp er l a mbs . Th e m a t e ri a l p rod u c ed may b e u s ed i n a cou n t e rp a n e

B y tyi n g a l oom i n th i s wa y al l h a rn e ss es m a k in g th e l S wel l a s i n a b a th rob e i f so d e si r ed
,
.

Fi g . 2 56
FOO T P O WER LO OM
- WEAV IN G
 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

b een v e ry c a r ef ul ly work e d o u t a nd fou n d p r a c tic a l i n

ev er y resp ec t Among th e dr a fts giv en a r e th os e s ui t ed
“

to u ph ol ster ing , d 1 es s g ood s, t 0 11 el ing h ea vy s ui ting

_
1
r
, ,

c o a t s , etc Th e i nt e r est ed 11 eav er wil l fi n d n o en d of su m Fig 2 59

“
1
.
.

g es tions . Thi s , tog e th er wi th a l ittl e origi n a l ity wi l l,

gr eatly si mpl ify th e wo 1 k in g ou t of n ew a n d a ttr a c tiv e

p at t ern s .

I t i s n ot n ec ess a ry to c on h u e th e wo rk o nl y to c ert a i n
m a t eri a l s Ma ny t im es a p a tt ern wo rk ed ou t i n th e fi nes t
.

Fi g . 0
2 0

of th r ea ds may b e work ed o u t i n a v e ry c o a rs e th r ea d a nd
m ad e to s erv e a n e nt ir ely di ff er e n t p urpos e from wh a t i t
Fi g 2 61
was origi n a l ly i nt en d ed
.

T o enj oy weav ing gr ea t c a r e m u s t b e ex er cised i n th e

“
tie u p
-
Al l p a rts m u s t b e m a de to p ul l ev enly To do
.

th is th e bl o ck i ng cord mus t b e u s e d a nd th e m e thod of

.

ty in g m u st b e obs e rv e d i n or d e 1 t o a dj u st r ea dily
1
.
 SWEDI S H PATTERNS 1 35

Fi g . 2 62

Fi g . 2 66

Fi g . 2 63

F ig 267
Fi g . 2 64
.
136 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM W EA VI N G

Fi g 271
Fi g
.

. 268

Fi g . 272
Fi g . 2 69

Fi g . 270
Fi g . 2 73
1 38 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEAVI N G

Fi g . 2 80

Fi g . 277

2 81
.

P ‘g
1

F ig : 2 7 8
' 1

Fi g .
‘

279
Fi g . 2 82
 S WED I S H P ATTERNS 1 39

Fi g . 28 3

Fi g . 2 86

F ig 2 84
'

Fi g . 2 37

Fi g . 2 85 Fi g . 2 88
 F O OT P O
-
WER L O OM WEAV IN G

Fi g . 292

Fi g . 2 89

Fi g . 293

Fi g . 2 90

Fi g . 294
F ig 291
'

.
 FO O T P O
—
WER L O OM WEAV IN G '

Fi g . 30 3

Fi g . 3 01
Fi g . 3 04

F ig 3 02
.
Fi g . 305
 S WEDI S H PATTERNS
14

Fi g . 30 6
Fi g . 3 09

Fi g . 3 07

Fi g . 31 0

Fi g . 308
Fi g . 31 1
 FO O T P O
—
WER L O OM V IN G

Fi g . 31 2 F 1" .
315

F ig
o

.
0
3 13 Fi g . 316
146 FOOT P O
-
WER L O OM WEAVIN G

Fi g . 3 24 T

Fi g . 327

Fi g . 32 5

Fi g . 328

Fi g . 32 6
 S WED I SH PATTERNS 14 l

Fi g . 332

Fi g . 333

Fi g . 334

Fi g . 33 1
1 48 F O O T P OlVER L O O M
-
-

WEAVIN G

Fi g . 3 35

Fi g . 3 37
1 50 FOO T
-
P OWER LO O M WEAV IN G

F g i . 34 7

Fi g . 35 1
 S W ED I SH P l TTERNS
—
. 1 51

Fi g 254
.

Fi g . 352

Fi g . 3 55

Fi g . 3 56
1 52 FO O T P O
-
WER LO OM V
il E/ l
. VI N G

Fi g . 3 58
!
]
C F OO T P O
-
WER L O O M l l EAV IN G
‘ ’

Fig . 3 72

Fi g . 37 1

Fi g . 374
S WE DI S H PATTERNS 1 55

Fi g . 378

Fi g . 37 9
1 56 FO O T PO
-
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

Fi g . 38 2
1 58 FO O T P O WER L O OM W E A VI N G
-
 S W ED I SH PA TT E R NS 1 59

Fi g . 398
Fig . 39 5

Fig . 39 9

F ig . 3 97
1 60 FO O T -
P O WE R L O OM WEA VIN G

'
-
Fig . 4 o1

Fig . 4 02

Fig 4 03
.
1 62 F O O T P O W E R LO OM WEA VIN G
-

F ig 416
Fig . 41 3

F ig . 41 5

Fig . 418
 S l VlzD l S l l
‘

P ATT E R NS 1 6 23

Fig . 421
 D am a sk Wea ve repea ts a s sho wn by th e n i n e sl a nti n g l i nes Th e thi rd
.

F igure 4 2 5 sh o ws a m os t i n teres ting ten h arn ess da

- c h a nge is th e sa m e a s th e fi rst , wh i ch th reads fro m th e
m a sk weave wh ic h m ay b e u sed i n wea vi n g n apk in s a n d firs t th rou gh th e te n th
.

tabl ec loth s Th e d raf t i s written j u s t a s th e N or wegia n s

.

wri t e it . Th ere wi l l b e l ittl e o r n o d iffi cu l ty i n a ec om

plish ing th e weave a fter t h e th rea di ng a n d trea dl i ng a re
u nders t oo d .

I t h a s a l ready bee n s ta te d th a t eac h h o ri z onta l l i ne

m ean s a p ai r of heddl e s ticks Th e d raf t sh o ws th a t th e r e
.

a re ten , d ivided i nto two sec tion s o r grou p s , ma rked I

a n d I I Th e fi r st g r o u p c on sists of the fi r s t fi ve h a rnesses
.

a n d th e secon d g roup of th e second fi v e .

Th e th read in g is i n dic a te d by th e sla n ting l ines wh ich

c ross th e h o ri z on ta l p a ral l el l i nes Each h ori z on ta l l in e
.

c rossed by a sl a nti n g l in e m ea n s a th rea d i n ea c h h eddle .

Th e fi r st th rea d passes th rou gh th e eye o f the fi r s t

heddl e o n th e fi r st h ed dl e s tic ks E ac h th rea d is t aken in
.

i ts regul a r orde r , pa ssi ng th rough th e ey e o f th e fi l ls t

h edd l e on ea ch p ai r of h eddl e s ti ck s f r o m th e fi r s t th rough
th e te n th .
F ig . 42 5

Th e d raf t indic a te s th a t thi s order i s a ga i n repea ted .

T h e th read ing now c h a nges a n d th e h ed dl es 0 11 th e fi r s t Th e en ti r e pa ttern i s m ade up by repea tin g th e draf t

five h a rnesses o nly a re u sed . Th is i s c on tin u ed for n i ne sho wn i n F ig 4 2 5
. .
1 66 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM '
WEAVI N G

B o r d e r .

B o d y .

F ig . 428 E ig h t H ar nes s D a ma s k W ea
-
ve

Th e l o wes t p ul ley cont rol s th e two m idd le h a rnesses N o h eddl e h orses a re re q u i red
th e on e above con trol s th e tw
.
,

o h a rnesses one a t eac h s ide

,
The dra wi ng sh o wn i n F ig 4 2 7 sh o ws the ropes tied
.

of th e two cen ter ones Th e th i rd p ul ley co n trol s t wo oth er

. to one en d of the h edd l e sti cks .

ha rnesses i n a sim il a r way a s j u s t m en t ion ed I n the cas e

. F i gu re 4 2 8 sh o ws th e d r a f t fo r a n eigh t h a rn ess da
-

o f t wo sma l l p ul ley s th e rop e pa sses over th e t wo, one m ask weave wri tten i n th e S wedish way I n t h is d raf t
.

en d tied t o on e h arness a n d th e other to a n oth er Th e. t he spac e bet ween t wo l i nes represents a pa i r of h eddl e
'

t wo top p ul ley s con trol th e fi r s t a nd l a st h arnesses . sti ck s .

 I l GI I T I I ARNI LS S DAMAS K l l’EA VE
’
1 67
‘ —
-
s

F ig . 429

th rea d s to left ) 0 1 o f ti mes th e ven te i is r e

l l ll llll
‘ '
.

'

p ou t ed depend s u p o n th e wid th th e ma te ria l i s to be wh en

fi n is h e d Afte r th e e e nte r o r bod y ha s been th r ead ed t h e
.
, ,

desi red n um ber o f ti m es t h e bo rd er i s a ga i n th rea d ed

,
.

Nuin b e r of T hre ad s
I n d o i ng wo rk o f t h is ki nd th ere sh o ul d he a t l a s t r

4 3 th rea d s u sed to an ine h A n umbe r 1 5 reed m ay be

.

used , d n win g th ree th read s th rou gh ea ch ( l en t .

T ie U p -

F i g u re 2 3 1 sh o ws o ne wa y to t ie u p, u si n e
r o ne se t of

la m bs .

F igu re 2 5 3 sh o ws the d o u bl e s e t o f la mbs I f th e .

d o u bl e set o f l a m bs i s u sed th e ( l o ts i nd i c a t e th e u pper

l a mb s t ied t o th e t rea d les Th e sq ua res wi th ou t ( l o ts in
.

( l i at e th e l o we r la mbs tied to th e t r nu l l es Th i s m eth o d

'
.

Th e th read i ng begin s a t th e ri gh t a n d i s rea d to wa rd of

“ -
”
i ie np ha s a l ready be e n ex pla i ned .

l eft \Vhen th e fi r s t pa rt i s th rea d ed be gin a t th e

.
,
O rd e r of Tr eadlin g
o f th e sec o nd.

Th e a rr o w i nd i cat es th e end o f th e bo rder .

Th e fi g u r es j us t bel o w the ( l o ts i nd i c a t ing th e t ie u p “ -

Th e ce nt er begin s wi th th e a rro w a n d i n cl udes a l l sh o w th e o rder i n whie h th e t rea dl es a re p re s s e d do wn .

1 68 FO O T
-
PO WER L O OM W E A V IN G
1 70 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA VI N G
tim es a s i s necessa ry t o give th e desi red wi d th . Th e border t ie -
a n d o rder f
np o tr ea d lin
g a re gi v en fo r th e fi r s t o ne only
-
.

a l so m ay be repea ted se v era l ti m es .

Th e wea ver h a s n o doubt l ea rned by th i s ti m e t ha t th e
, ,

t hrea di ng indi c a tes th e treadl in g .

‘Vh il e F igs 4 3 1 4 32 . a n d 4 3 4 d o no t sho w th e

, ,

regul a r d am a sk wea ve th ey d o s ho w good exa mp l es of

,

li nen to wel in g an d even good e x a m pl es of ma te ria l s th a t

m igh t be u sed i n u p hol stering Th e th read ing a n d t ie np” .
“ -

for F ig 4 3 1 a n d F ig 4 3 2 a re th e sa m e
. . Th e d ifferen ce in .

pa ttern i s b ro u gh t o u t b v a differenc e i n t he o rder of

t read l ing .

F ig . 435
Th e s ta rs on th e ver ti ca l l i nes i n dica t e th e o rder of
trea dl in g .

" “
Th e th read ing a d ti e u p fo r F ig 4 3 3 a n d F ig 4 3 4
n -
. .

a r e t h e sa m e Th e differen ce i n pa ttern i s b rough t o u t

. .

by a ( li mei enee i n trea dl ing - ‘

F i gu re 4 235 sh o ws a ver y g o od d ia gona l wea ve i n eigh t

ha rnesses \Vhi1e th is d ra f t i s n o t g o od fo r to ne l ing et e
.
, ,

i t i s e x cepti ona l l y good fo r coa t s , s u i ti ng etc Th e th read , .

t
i ng tie u p ” a nd tread li ng a re a l l rea d f rom F ig 4 3 5
,
‘ -
. .

F i g u re 4 3 6 i s a m os t e x cel l ent d raf t for l inens It is .

n o t a da m ask wea v e b u t v ery satisfa cto r y when u sed in

F ig 436
to wel s Th rea din g tie u p a n d tread l ing a re a l l read from
.

-
.
, ,

th e d ra ft .

T abl e Ma t
sho ws a t a bl e m a t woven of N o 3 mercer
F ig u re 4 3 8 .

i z od cotton wa rped i n t wo colors The d ra f t sho wn i n F ig . .

F igu re 4 3 0 sho ws the th read ing fo r a ten ~

h a r n ess 4 3 7 i ndi ca tes only t wo ch a n ges i n th e grou pi ng of th e
m ask weave Th ere a re th ree a rra ngem en ts sh o wn Th e
. . th rea d s Th e colors u sed a re gr ee n a n d gol den b ro wn
. .
 WEAVI N G TABLE MA T 171

F ig . 4 37 -
Tabl e M at . D raft of P att e r n

Th e sel vage o f green Th e fi r s t gro u p of fo u r th rea ds ,

.
Th e pl ai n weave i s don e by ty in g la mbs 1 3 to
m a rked A i s o f gold en b r o wn
“
,
”
.
th e ri gh t m idd l e t rea dl e a n d 2 a nd 4 to th e l eft m iddl e
,
”

,
“
Th e nex t fou r t h rea d s m a rked B a re green ,
. t readl e .

Th i s i s repea ted th ree tim es fi r s t A a nd th en B

, .
F i gu re 4 3 8 , sh o wi ng th e fi n is h ed m a t wi l l give th e
,

i t wi l l be observed th a t th e th rea d s r u n i n group s of weave r a n i dea o f th e way in wh i ch th e t rea d les a re o p

,

tou r , A a l ways bei ng of go lden b ro wn a nd B of green .

e r a te d to p rod u ce th e d esign a s g iven Th e verti ca l ba nd s
. .

F igu re 4 3 8 req u i res 4 0 8 th read s o f t wo col ors t o be a re u n cha n gea bl e Th e h o ri z on ta l ba nd s m ay be m ade

.

wa rped a s a b o ve des cribed a n u mber 2 0 reed on e pa t tern

, ,
a ny wid th by repea ti n g 1 2 a n d 3 2 , a l way s u si ng the bind er
- -

th read to a d en t a nd t wo sel va ge th read s to a den t o f the .

a fter ea c h pa ttern th rea d .

fi r s t fou r a nd th e l a s t fou r den ts of th e d ra f t . Th e o th er combi na tion s a re 1 4 an d 3 4 - -

.

T he woo f i s th e sa m e m a teria l a s th e wa rp a N o 3 ,
.
Th e woof i s a l l of th e sam e col o r .

l n er ce r iz ed co tt o n Th e bi nder m us t be a m u ch fi ne r
i s th e wa y th e wa rpi ng is d o n e a wl
.

It th e t rea d l ing
t hrea d a nd of a d ifferent co l o r Fo r th e a bove co l o rs a n
. ,

th a t m ak es th e pa t tern
o ra nge bi nde r wo rk s i n very ha rm o n i o u sl y
.

T h e pa ttern l a mb s a re tied i n th e to l lmv in g o rde r

’
Th e tabl e ma t h a s the e ffe ct o f doubl e wea vi ng d one
w i th fou r h a rn esses I t i s re a l l y a s ix ~
h a r nes s pa tte rn l O '

1 a n d 2 to th e fi r s t t readl e .
.

3 a nd 2 to t he sec o nd t read le
- .
( l u e e d to f o u r A l i ttl e ex peri m en tin g wi l l su gges t a very
.

1 a n d 4 to th e th i rd t read l e .
3 a n d 4 t o th e fo u rt h t read l e
grea t va ri e ty o f com bi na t ion s o f s t ripes a nd sq ua r es wh ich
.
th e opera t o r m a y wo rk o u t Th e com bi na ti on o f th read
.
 F OO T
-
P OWER L O OM WEA VIN G
2

Fig 4 39— F i n i sh e d R ug
F ig . 4 3 8— F i ni sh e d M at .
1 74 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA VIN G

F ig . 4 42 —
S ea S h el l . D raft of P att e rn

n e x t p ressed do wn a n d th e wh it e t hre a d i s p a ssed th rough

'

I t req ui res 1 48 th read s fo r one repea t .

th e s h ed .
Th e wa rp i s of a t wo ply N o 3 0 Egyp tia n t wi n e a ml
-
.
,

Tread l e two i s nex t p ressed do wn a n d th e ~

'

b l u e u sed t h e woo f i s of a N o 5 m er ceri z ed cot ton Th ere a r e th irt y

T read l e th ree i s p ressed do wn an d th e white pa ss ed t hrough
.
. .

'

th read s to th e i n ch d ra wn th ro u gh the den ts o i a N o 1 5

'

th e sh ed u T hi s o rde r of t read l in g i s co n ti nu ed th ro u gho u t reed t wo th rea ds t o th e dent

, .

th ewea ving of th e en ti re i u g sh o wn i n F ig 4 3 9
l

T he l am bs a re ti ed t o th e l o we r h edd l e sti cks

'

I
j . .
.

F igu re 4 4 1 Sho ws th e sam e th i

.
b u t a differen t -

Th e l a mbs a re tied to the treadl es i n the fol l o win g

ord er of treadl i ng ; I n stea d of u si ng b l u e a nd wh ite fo r '

order :
th e woof ta n a nd bro wn a re u sed Th e wea v in g i s sta rted
,
.
La mbs 1 a n d 3 a PC tied to th e fi r s t t rea d le .

i n the sa m e wa y a s i n F ig : 4 3 9 La mbs 2 an d 3 a re ti ed t o th e se con d t rea dl e .

After t h e ba n d o f o ne co lo r i s a s wide a s i s des i red

“ '

, La mb s 1 an d 4 a re ti ed to th e th ird trea dl e .

th e opposi te co lo r i s m ad e to r ey ei s e Th is ph a ng e is '
.
La mb s 2 a nd 4 a re ti ed to th e fo u rth treadl e .

brough t abo u t by pa ssing th e sa nr e p o l o r th ro u gh the shed La mbs 1 a n d 5 a re tied to th e fi fth treadl e .

t wic e Th e o rde r of t rea dl i ng is e x a ctly the sa me

. .
La mbs 2 an d 5 are t ied to th e si x th t read l e .

S e a Sh e ll P a t t e r n La mbs 1 a n d G a r e t ied to th e seven th trea dl e .

La mbs 2 an d (i a re ti ed to th e eigh th treadl e

“

Th e d ra f t sho wn i n F ig s ix Ji a r n ess
.

. 44 2 is tha t of a
Th e pl a i n weave i s don e by tyi ng ”

The d ra ft sh o ws tli a t t en trea d les a re req u i red to La mbs 1 a nd 2 to th e righ t m iddl e trea dle .

pr o
-

La mb s 3 4 5 a nd o to th e l ef t m idd l e t readl e
_

d u ce the pa t tern s ho wn i n F ig 4 4 3 . .
.
 D AM A S K WEAVES 1 75

sh o ws th e fi nish ed S ea S hel l I t i s a c lose

F i gu re 4 4 3 .

weav e a n d may be u sed for win do w s id e d rapes , p ill o w tops ,

tabl e run ners a n d beca u se of th e c l osenes s of th e weave

,

i t m ay very su c cessful ly be u sed i n u phol s terin g .

I t i s p erha ps th e m os t d ifficu l t to weave be ca u se o f

~
.

“ "
th e six ha rnesses a nd ten t1 a d les I f th e do ubl e tie u p .
-

suggested i n F i g 2 53 i s u s ed th ere wi l l be n o d iffi cu l t y i n

.
,

s ec u ri ng a good sh ed .

A ny sh ade of N o 5 iner ce r iz ed co tto n m ay be u sed

. .

Th e d ra f t i tsel f i ndi ca tes th e o rder o f t rea d l in g I t .

wi l l b e rem embered th a t ea c h da rk sq ua re indi c a tes a woo t

th rea d I n th e fi r s t comb i na tio n of th read s 1 a n d 3 a r e
.

given Thi s m ea n s th a t th e t re a d le con t rol li ng ha rnesses

.

1 a nd 3 i s p ressed do wn t 11 1 ce for th e pa tte m th 1 ea d s wit h

a binder a fter ea c h pa ttern t l1 1 ea tl S ince th i s m ethod of
'
.

ex p 1 es s ing the w adi ng of a ( 11 1 ft ha s p reviou sly been mo s t

1 1

ca 1 efu l ly ex pl ain ed i t 11 i l l no t b e ne ce ss a 1 y to a ga i n go i n to

d eta i l a t th is tim e .

Th e six h a rness pa ttern s ( 10 not req u i re to b e woven

so fi nel y a s th e fo u r h a rn ess designs A n u mbe r 2 4 reed .
,

o n e th rea d t o th e den t m a k es a very ti ne fab ri c .

,

F igu re 4 4 4 sh o ws th e d ra ft fo r wha t i s k no wn a s th e .

“
Vi rgi nia B ea u ty ”
to be t ra n sposed i n to a si x h a r ncs s
,
-

d ra ft .

To do th i s l et th e
Com bi na tion 1 4 0 0 111 bi na tion 1 6 a nd 2 6
- 2 - -
.

Com bi na tion 3 4 Combi na tion 1 5 a nd 2 5

- = - -
.

mb ina tio n 2 3 C o 1n b ina t io 11 1 4 a nd 2 4

‘
o -
= -
.

c 111b in a tio n o m b ina t io n 1 3 a nd 2 3

‘
1 -
.

1 i1 r l1 t th rough th e tl 1 a ft, 11 i th th e f o l lo win g 4 45

as a 1 es u l t .

F ig . 4 43 —
S ea S h el l
1 76 F OO T -
P OWER L O OM WEAVI N G

F ig . 4 4 4— V i rgi n i a B e a u t y . F ou r H ar ness

Fi g . 4 45 —
Vi rgi n i a B e a u t y . S ix H ar ness
T h e T ie- U p
Th e design s wri tten i n 3 s 5 s 7 s o r 9 s , o r where
’
,
’
,
’
,
’

those m u l tipl es a ppea r i n the design a re m ore compl ic a ted

,
The ti e u p-
th e pa ttern i s foun d in th e sa m e wa y i f tran sposed a s wri tten . Th e simpl est way i s to m a ke
fo r fo u r h eddl e drafts .
suc h a d raf t over so th a t i t re a ds i n s 4 s 8 s etc 2
’ ’ ’
.
, , ,

1 6
-
isti ed to th e fi rs t trea dle . I n r e a rra n gi n g a d raft a n a dd ition al one o r t wo m ay
2 6 ist ied t o th e sec on d t rea dl e h ave to be added o r th e draft m ay b e red uced for a sma l l er
‘

-
.

1 5
-
istied to the thi rd t readl e . desi gn .

2 5
-
ist ied t o th e fou r th trea dl e . T h e p la i n weave i s fou n d by ch eck i ng t h rough th e
1 4
-
istied to th e fi fth treadl e . d raf t al l o wing th e h eddl e s tic k th a t c ontai n s every o th er
,

2 4 is t ied to th e si x th treadl e
-
. th read ti e to one treadl e a nd th e opposit e h a l f of th e
1 3 i s tied to th e seventh trea dl e
-
. th rea ds ti e to th e o th er m iddl e t readl e .

2 3 i s tied to the eigh th trea dle

-
.
F or exa mpl e th e fi r s t th rea d appea rs 0 11 h eddl e N o
—
.

Tie u p fo r th e pl a i n weave i s a s fol lo ws

-
1 . Th e n ex t th rea d i s on h eddl e N o 6 O ne and si x ca n
. .

i
1 2 to th e r gh t m iddl e trea dl e no t b e u sed together i n th e pl a in weave b eca u se two
-

3 4 5 6 to th e l eft m iddl e t readle .

th reads woul d be b rough t down together .

To Tran sp o se a Fo u r H ed d l e to a Six H e d dl e D r af t Th e th ird th rea d i s o n th e sec on d h eddle The ms t .

a nd thi rd th reads m ay b e u sed togeth er b ec au se th e s ec ond

D esi gn s b es t su i ted to t r a n spose from fou r to si x th rea d wh ich i s on h eddl e N o 6 comes bet ween Ch ec kin g
. .

h ed dl es a re th ose wri tten i n t wo s fou r s an ti ei gh t s o r

’
,
’
,
’
, throu gh th e draf t th e p l a i n weave is fou nd t o b e a s above
even m u l tipl es . sta ted .
 WEAVIN G
fl

1 78 7 20 UBLE Pii TI ERN ' ‘

We av in g D o u bl e Cl o t h experi men ting wit h th e pl a i n double tie u p

T h rou gh -

One l a rn s th a t on ly p la i n do ubl e c l oth ca n be wove n

l

I t req ui res two sh u ttles to weav e do ubl e c lo th , o n e fo r e

th e wh ite th read a nd th e o th er fo r th e bl ac k : In o ther wo rds , n o ch ange i s p ossible Th e fel oth
“

When a l l is r ea dy weaving b eg ins by d ra wi ng do wn

'

,
'

th roughou t i s bl ack 0 11 o n e side a nd wh i te o n th e o th er .

a l l th e whi te th read a n d h a l f th e bl ac k a s s h own in F i g .

Topr o d u ce a c ha nge i t wil l be necessa ry to add fou r m ore
,

4 4 6 , trea dl e 4 A b l a ck th rea d i s n
. ow p assed th rough th e
h eddl e s .

sh ed th u s formed Thi s begi n s th e bla c k c loth a n d i s on

.
F i gu re 4 4 7 sh ows a d oubl e woven pa ttern wh ic h may
1

the u pper side of th e weaving f Th e wh ite c l o th i s to b e

‘

b e p roduc ed with 8 h eddl es fou r of wh ic h wi l l give the ,

b l ack s q u ar es an d fou r th e wh i te Th e d raf t wri tten bel o w

'
’

form ed on th e u ndersid e I n o rder to b ri n g th is a bo u t

.
.

one h a lf th e wh i te th rea ds a re d ra wn do wn th e eth er h al f

- t h e p a t tern Fig 4 4 7 , i s wri tten ou t i n fu l l wh il e t h e draft
,
.
,
,

a t th e ri gh t i s ve r y m u ch cond en sed th us u si ng l es s spa ce

‘

of th e wh ite a n d a l l t h e bl a ck r em a ini n g u p as sh o wn in
‘

.
,
,

F ig 4 4 6 trea dl e 3
.
,
.

Th e War p
A white th rea d i s now pa ssed th rough th e sh ed
Th e wa rp m ay b e of th e regu l a r fou r ply ca rpet wa rp
.

Th e n ex t th rea d i n th e pl ai n c loth i s to be a bl a ck '

i n t wo col or s I t is reel ed an d ha nd led th rough ou t a s de

w
.

one To d o thi s a l l the bl a c k th r ea ds Jeft u p i n tread le 4 .

sc ri bed i n th e eavi n g of p la i n doubl e c loth Th ere sh o ul d

.

m u st be brough t do wn togeth er wi th al l th e whi te th 1 ea d s

.

be f rom 3 2 t o 3 6 th r ead s per i n ch one h al f be i ng wh i te a n d -

a s sh o wn i n treadl e 2 A bla c k th rea d i s n ow; pa ssed , '

th e o th er h a l f bl a ck Two th read s on e bl ac k an d on e
.
“

w
.
,
th rough th e sh ed
h i t e, a re d ra wn th rou gh eac h den t of a n u mber 1 6 0 1
.
1

T h e fou 1 th th rea d m u s t be a noth er wh i te one Th e

m
.

18 1 eed
1

req u i r ed sh ed i s ad e by b rin g ing do wn th e whi te th 1 ead s

'
. .

n o t b rou gh t do w n b y t 1 ea d l e 3 B y p 1 ess1 n ( 10 11 n t i ea d l e
.
0 T he Thre a din g
1 the r igh t sh ed i s m ade a n d a wh ite th rea d is p a ssed
'

, Th e dr a ft bel o w F ig 4 4 7 i s s o wri tten a s t o sho w t he

.

th r ou gh I f th i s 0 1 ( l e i of t1 ea d l ing i s fo ll o11 ed a do ubl e 1 111111 b e 1 of th rea ds th a t p ro du ce ea c h pa r t of th e fi n is h ed

'

1
.
, .

c l o th i s 11 oven 11 h 1 ch i s bl a ck on t h e top a nd 11 h i t e b el o11 .

p attern The l ittl e b la ck s q u a r e i n th e l o wer l ef t ha nd
.
'

c orner of th e fi nis h ed pa ttern i s taken c are of by th e fi r s t

D o ub l e P a t t ern Weavin g fou r th rea ds i n th e d raft T he l i ttl e wh ite sq u a r e above .

To u n dersta n d do ub l e p a tte rn we avin g i t i s bes t to i t i s ta ke n ba re of b y th e s ec on d fou r th r eads Th is i s .

fi r st th r ea d a l oom a s d esc1 1 bed i n th e wea vi n g o f p l ai n r epea ted fou r tim es I n th e condensed form a t th e righ t
’ “

.
,

th i s par t b f th e d raf t i s exp r essed by u sin g a brace wi th

‘

do ubl e cl oth
‘

.
1 80 F O O T P O W E R L O OM WEA VIN G
—

th e fi g u r es tell i ng th e n u mber of ti mes th is o rder of th rea ds t a i n portion of th e d raft i s repea ted T he vertica l spa c ing .

i s to be repea ted . dep ends upo n th e n u mber of woof th reads .

B WB W Th e draf t a t th e righ t tel ls i n a very simpl e way t h e

wh ol e s tory of th e pa ttern a t h a nd Th e heddl e sti cks a re .

n u mbered a t th e l ef t of th e th read in g dr a f t Th e treadl es .

a re n umbered a t t h e top J11 st b el o w i s th e t rea dli ng for

.

the f ro n t bo rd er . Th e fi r s t t readl e i s p ressed do wn a n d

a wh ite th rea d i s pa ssed th rou gh th e sh ed Th e sec ond .

t rea dl e i s p res sed do wn a nd a bl ac k th rea d is pa ssed

th rou gh th e sh ed Th e 3 r d, 4 th , 5 th , 6 th 7 th a n d 8 th a re
.
,

taken i n th ei r regul a r order Thi s o rder of t rea dl ing i s r e

Gr o upll
.

pea ted f0 u 1 tim es Th e rem ai nder of th e t rea dl ing d ra f t

'

1
.

i s sh o wn to th e l eft .

T ie- U p

Th e t ie u p pa rt of th e d raft sho ws th a t h eddles 8 7 , G

-
,

a n d 3 a re ti ed to th e fi r s t t readl e , h ed dl es 8 4 3 a n d 1 t o
t h e secon d t readl e etc
,
.

Th e bl a ck sq u a res sim pl y tel l th e bl ac k heddl es a n d

th e c ross th e wh ite h ed dles tied to a c er tai n tre a dle A t .

tention i s c al led to th e fa c t tha t al l the wh i te th rea ds a re

Fi g . 4 4 8 T ie Up
-
on h ed dl e s ticks 1 3 5 a nd 7 wh i le a l l th e bl ac k threads
, , ,

~Obse1 ve th e th rea di n for the l on g n a rro w s trip of a re fou nd o n hed dl e stick s 2 4 (3 a nd 8 , ,

.

g
1

bl a ck O nly h ed dles 8 , 7 , 6 , a n d 5 a re u sed T he wh i te

. .
Ex pl a n a t i o n of T ie U p
-

s trip a bove i s ca red fo r by u sin g o nly h edd les 4 , 3 , 2 , a n d 1

. I n order to wo rk in tel l igently th e one opera tin g the
N ote th e way th e c h anges an d th e repea ts a re ex p ressed 10 0 111 sh ou l d nnd e r s ta nd th e rea son s for tyi ng certai n h ed
in th e c on densed way of wri ti ng th e draf t . dl es t o cer ta i n t rea dles F or convenienc e the treadles m ay
.

The weaver m u st rem emb er th a t th e h ori z o n ta l spac ing be group ed as sh o wn i n F ig 4 4 8 an d m a rk ed I a n d I I

. .

i n a ny d es i g n i s c o n t rol l ed by th e n u mber of tim es a c er

,
The h a rnesses may al s o b e g r ou bed an d m a rk ed I a n d I I .
182 F O O T P O WE R LO OM WEA VIN G
-

"
bl ac k th rea d pa sses th rough th e shed , ha l f of th e bl a ck th rea d of th e wh i te sq ua re benea th th e bl ac k i s wh ite a nd
th reads a re u p an d th e other h al f do wn Whe n a wh ite . i s wove n i n by ra isi ng a l l th e bl a c k th reads i n th e group ,
th rea d pa sse s th rou gh th e sh ed h a l t of th e wh i te th reads ‘

t rea dl e 5 a n d hal f th e wh i te a s i ndi ca te d Con sider a t

,
.

th rough ou t th e p a tter n a re u p a n d th e o th er h a l f d ow p resen t o nly th a t pa r t of th e t i e u p wi th i n th e dot ted l i nes

'

n .
-

Ca re m u s t b e ex erci sed i n no t dra wi ng u p th e sa in e th reads

'

a nd m a rked G rou p I I
‘ ‘

i n t wo s u cc essive whi te W oo f th rea ds o r t wo bl ac k

.
'

I n order to fi nd the wh ite th rea ds to b e rai sed i t i s

w
.

Th e th i rd fi l l er th rea d i s a wh i te a nd i s oven i n b e nec es sa ry to refer to treadl e N o 3 I t i s fou nd tha t th e

. .
.

l ow th e bl ac k sq ua re . Al l th e bl ac k m u s t b e d r a 11 11 up o u t l o wes t wh ite th read F igu re 4 4 8 wa s l a s t ra ise d T read l e .

, ,

of th e way, as i s i ndica ted 1 11 G 1 0 11 1) I t l11 1 d treadl e Ha l f

'

5 m u s t l eave th is wh i te th rea d do wn “ hen a l l th e bl a cks

’
, .
.

o f th e whi te m u s t be d i a wn u I t i s h ere th a t ca re m u s t o r wh it e s i n a c erta i n grou p a re u sed a l l th e o th ers a re

p .

be taken no t to tak e th e sa m e 11 l1 i te a s wa s ta ken wh en l ef t do wn .

11 ea v in
g i n th e l a s t wh i te th 1 ea d Th esecon d 11 h i te tl1 1 ea d T rea dl e N o 6 ca rries a bla c k th rea d Al l th e wh i te
. .

i s th er efor e d 1 a 1vn u p a n d every o th er 11 l11 te th l ea d th read s in G ro up I I a re l ef t do wn a l l th e oth ers outside ,

th rou gh ou t th e pa ttern Th e rem a i ni ng bl ac k th 1 ead s a re

.
th e grou p a re ra i sed E very oth er bl a c k th rea d wi th i n the
.

l eft ( 10 11 1 1 a s i ndi ca ted on th e th i1 d t rea dl e The fou rth .

gro up a n d al so th ose o ut sid e th e group a re raised a s i ndi
th i ea d i s bl a ck ; th er ef0 1 e al l th e wh i te th read s i n G 1 0 11 1)
1

ca te a on tr eadl e 6 .

I a re l ef t do wn Al l th e 0 th e1 wh it e t hr ea ds a i e br ough t
1 1

Treadl e 7 ca rries a wh i te th read

.

H al f of th e bl a c k a re u p Th e fi r st b la ck a t top t read l e
'

up . .

4 i s l eft do wn be ca u se i t was b r ou gh t u p on trea dl e 2

Al l th e bla ck s wi thi n t h e gr ou p a re ra ised All bl acks
Th e .
.

s eco nd b l a
'

ck
'

is b r Ou gh t up a n d every
-
'

o utsid e th e grou p a re l eft do wn Ha l f th e wh i tes withi n

.

o ther b l a c k th rea d th rough ou t is b rou gh t 11 11 as i s i nd ica ted

‘ an d ou tsi de t h e grou p a re rai sed .

o n t readl e4 G rou p I
,
Th e trea dl e si n G roup I wh en u sed
.
,
T rea dl e N o 8 ca rries a bl a ck th rea d ; th erefore al l th e
“

i n thei r regul a r o rder , p rod uc e th e l a rge squ a re Th e o r . wh ites i n G roup I I mu s t be do wn Al l th e oth er wh i tes .

( ler m u st be repea ted u n ti l th e desi red sq ua re i s woven . mu st b e ra i sed Ev ery o th er bla ck bo th withi n an d o 1l t
.
,

side th e group m u s t b e rai sed .

Gro u p II
I t i s now eviden t tha t th e t rea dl es i n G ro u p I I when
I I , F ig 4 4 8 wh ic h i s i nd ic ated by th e dotted
G rou p ,
repea ted over a nd over wil l p rodu ce th e secon d cha nge i n
l i nes takes ca re of th e sm al l er bl a ck sq u a re
,
Th e fi r s t . th e pa t tern .
 D O UBL E WEAVI N G 1 83

Th e Lo o m

The 10 0 111 u sed fo r d oubl e weav i n g sh ou l d b e eq uipp ed

with t h e d oubl e se t of l amb s a nd th e overh ead fi x tu r es, a s
sh o wn i n F igs 2 58 2 5 4 a n d 2 55
.
,
.

B y th i s a rra ngem en t n o p a rt o f th e h a rnes s rem a i n s

sta tiona ry , b u t i s p u l led e ither 11 11 0 1 do wn , th u s p rod u ci n g
1

a goo d sh ed O ne grea t d ifficu l ty i n h avi ng b u t on e set o f

.

l a mbs i s tha t th e h ed dl es do no t retu rn to th ei r ori gina l

posi tio n a fter bei ng p ul l ed d o wn .

Thi s i s speci al ly t ru e wh en th e h a rness c on sists of

eigh t 0 1 m ore h eddl es
1
.

O t h er Ma t e ri al s
I n m os t of th e ol d t im e do ubl e woven cou n terpa nes th e
-

( 0 10 1 9 11 wa rp i s o f woo l wh i l e t h e wh i te i s cot to n I t h as
1 1
.

be en fou nd p ra c tica l to ma k e th e en ti re wa rp o f c o tton ,

using th e desi red c ol o rs Th e c ol o red woof m ay b e of wool

. .

I f both wool a nd c ot to n a re u sed th ere sh ou l d be two

d is ti nc t wa rps , th e one o f woo l bei ng pl a ced o n on e wa rp
be a m an d th e on e of c ot to n pl a ced 0 11 a noth er bea m Th e .

beam s m ay be pla c ed a s sh o wn i n F i g 4 4 9 An ex tra pa i r . .

of wa rp bea m b rackets i s pla ced bel o w th e pa i r a l rea dy on

F ig 4 50
the 10 0 111 P egs a re u sed j us t a bo ve th e e n ds of th e l o we r
.

bea m to preven t i t f rom bei n g d ra wn u p wa rd a s th e wa rp

i s ti gh tened S ee A F ig 4 4 9
.
,
. .
wool bea m to m ee t th e ten sio n th e wh i te
of

Th e t wo be a m s a re a bs ol u tely n ec es sa ry u nl es s th e Wh en t wo bea ms a re u se d i t is bes t to pl a ce th e

wool u sed h a s a very ha rd t wi st th u s p reven t in g i t from
,
of woo l 0 11 th e u pper bea m S epa rate l ea se rods a re u sed
.

stretch in g .
a n d end s of th e wh i t e 11 11 1 11 a re ca rri ed righ t over th e bl ue
1 1

Th e sepa ra te bea m s ma ke i t p o ssi bl e to tigh ten th e wa rp bea m .

1 84 FO O T -
P O WE R L O OM WEAVI N G

Th i s th rea d m ay be h a d ei ther bl ea c hed or u nbl each ed .

F i gu r e 4 50 sh o ws a ve r y simpl e eigh t h eddl e p a ttern .

Th e th read ing d r aft is wri tte n above th e p at tern an d th e

‘

treadl i ng draf t iswri tte n a t the l ef t T h e t ie u p i s sho wn

.
-

e pe a t
f m
r o Ar r
'
o
to th e l ef t of th e th rea di ng d raft Th e bl ac k squ ares an d
.

Fig . 4 52

c rosses sho w t h e n u mber of bl a ck a n d th e n u mber of wh ite

heddles tied to eac h t rea dl e
'

F i g ure 4 51 sho ws a nother i nteresting eigh t hedd le do u

bl e weave Th e enti re th rea din g an d al so th e trea dl ing
.

dr afts a re wri t te n i n th e c ondensed form .

Whe n th readi ng , a th rea d i s fi r st take n from th e bl u e I t wi l l be ob served th a t th e fi r st pa r t of eac h t rea dl ing

a n d t h en f rom th e wh ite bea m A very s up er io r th rea d
.
d raft tak es c are of th e f ron t border .

for doubl e weavin g, kno wn a s S wiss Ti dy c ot ton n u mber

,
I f a p il lo w top i s desi re d th e border m us t b e rep ea ted
1 2 or 1 5 , m ay b e p u rch a sed of th e Western Th rea d C om a rou n d th e en ti re c en ter.

p a ny , El gin , I l l in ois .
Th e b orders a t th e si des m u s t be ca red fo r i n th e
 F O O T P O W E R L O OM l l EAVI N G
'
’
186 -

T h e fi r st t rea dl e to t he righ t i n group I i s pressed D o u bl e Wea in g wi t h Mo re T h a n T w o Ch an g es

v

d O‘Vn a n d a ‘Vh ite th rea d p asses th rou gh th e Sh ed The .

F igu r e 4 55 sh cnvs a doubl e “ O ven p a ttern i nvol ving
'

sec o n d t r eadl e i s p r es sed dmv n a n d a bl ue wool th rea d i s

'

fou r cha n ges .

p a ssed th rou gh t h e shed The th i rd trea dl e i s p ressed a nd

.

a wh ite th rea d p asses t h rou gh An al ys Pa t t ern

'

T h e fou rth t rea dl e i s is of

' ‘ “

pr essed a nd a bl u e th re ad p asses th r on
'

gh Th e n ex t t rea dl e
’

pressed do wn i s th e fi r st .
Th e p rocess of a na ly z i ng a doubl e woven p iec e of
c loth i s m ore simp l e th a n tha t of th e ord ina ry fou r h a rness -

pa t tern s ,

Th e ch anges a re ve r y d efi nite l y ma rked a n d th e d raf t

'

more e asi ly written T he fac t th a t i t req u i res doubl e the .

n u mber of h a r n esses m akes th e we avi ng a l i ttl e m ore d if

fi cu l t .

Un ti l th e wea ver becomes fa m il ia r with th e v ariou s

steps i n a nal ysis it i s wel l t o d ra w o u t th e pa ttern to be
‘

"

a n a ly z e d on pap e 1 a s s h o wn i n F ig 4 55 D ra w th e ver
’
1 -
. .
,

tica l l i n es t ha t m a rk eac h c h a nge a s sh o wn bel o w th e pa t

tern S in ce th er e a r e fou r ch an ges d ra w h ori z onta l l ines
'

.
,

wh ich c ross th e vertica l l ines a t righ t a ngles Wi th in th e .

spa ces th u s form ed wri te th e nu mber of th rea ds i n ea ch

c h an ge I t n1 11 s t b e rememb ered th a t th ere a re al way s
.
_

d oubl e th e nu mb r of th reads th a n a ppea r on ei th er th e

e

iipper o r u nd er su rfa ce F or exam pl e th e fi r s t sq u are i s

'

Fig 4 54
. .
—

re co rded a s havin g th ree th read s t h is m e a ns th a t th ere a re ,

Th e fron t bo rder i s m ade by repea ti ng th e fi r s t t wo
t h ree th r ads of a n oth er c ol o r i n th e sam e squ a re of th e
c han ges i n the treadl in g d raft .

u nder su rfa ce
T h e weaver m us t u se h i s o wn j udgmen t i n the n u mber
.

of wool th reads t o use .

I t h as al r ea dy been sta te d a nd th e wea ver sh oul d have ,

F igu re 4 54 sho ws th e D a ni sh way for wri ti n g a n

'
experien ced th e fa c t by th is tim e tha t fou r h eddles o r ,

eigh t h eddle draf t fo r do ubl e weavi ng Th e th r ead in g r e

.
r h a rnesses a re re q u i red for ea ch ch a nge t wo fo r th e wh i te ,

sembl es th a t of th e D am a sk weave . a nd two fo r th e bl u e As a ma tter of convenien ce divid e .

D O UBLE W EA VI N G

F ig . 4 55
1 88 FO O T -
P OWER L O OM WEA VIN G

P i-g . 4 56 —
C om pl et ed D raft . A P att e r n A nal y s i s

th e c hec ked p ap er o n wh ic h th e d raf t i s wri tten i nto sec th e border sh oul d be th rea d ed a t th e begin ni ng a s wel l a s
t ion s an d m ark on e two, th ree a n d fou r a s i ndi ca ted i n
, , th e end th us m aki ng a borde r a rou n d th e en ti re weavi ng
, .

F ig 4 5 6
F igu re 4 56 i s the c ompl eted six teen h a rness d ra ft
. .
-
.

I f e a c h ch ange i n th e p a ttern i s l e ttered th e n u mber

,
Th e N o 1 4 S wi ss Tidy C otton ( f urnish ed by th e
.
,
of th reads rec o rded , a n d th e ch ec ked pa per m a rk ed 0 11 i n to
Western Th read El gin I l l ) m akes a very good wa rp
.

sec ti ons , th ere wi l l be n o di ffic ul ty i n wri t ing th e d ra f t

, .

I t h as been sugges te d th a t th e en ti re wa rp i n b oth wh i te

,
fo r a ny pa rtic ul a r sq u a re
an d bl u e b e m a de of c otton Th e col ored fi ll er 0 1 woof
.
1
.
'

Th a t p a r t of th e d ra f t bet ween th e a rro ws sh o ws th e

,

may be of wool a n d th e wh i te fi l l er of cotton I f wool i s .

u ni t th a t i s to b e repea ted The pl ace of begi nn in g i s

.
u sed i n th e wa rp i t shoul d h ave a ve r y h a rd t wi s t t o avoid
m a rk ed i n F ig 4 55
. .
stretch in g so m u ch as p ossibl e .

After th e p atter n o r u ni t h a s been repe a ted th e d e

T he Re ed
sir ed n u mber of times th e bo rder wh i c h fol l o ws i s th rea d
, A n u mber 2 0 ree d i s used th reads one whi te
. Two ,

ed Thi s pl ac es the bo rder a l ong th e l ef t edge only , a n d a n d on e bl u e a re dra wn th rough ea ch ( l en t ( R ee ds m ay

.
.
,

i s woven with th e u n ders ta n ding th a t two strip s a re to be b e p u rch ased of R R S t reet , 54 3 W Wash i ngto n B l vd
. . . .
,

sewed togeth er . I f th e woven pi ec e i s to be a p il l ow top , Chica go ) .

 PO WER L O OM lVEAVl N G
'

1 90 FO O T
'

F ig . 4 58 —
Th r ead i ng D raft for H a r nesses

The Trea dl es A dv a n t a g e of T wo H ar n e sse s

B rack ets be c u t a nd sc re wed to th e fl oo r to h ol d F ig . sh o ws th e th read ing dra f t wh en t wo b ar
4 58
“

th e l en gt h en ed t read les . nesses are u sed fo r th e p a ttern sho wn i n F ig 4 5 5 . .

I t wi l l b e observed tha t fo r each ch a n ge i n th e p attern

Warp B eam
ther e a re bu t two hedd les in stead of fou r , th u s redu cing
Lengthened b r acliets m ay a l so b e pl a c ed a t th e bac k to th e n um b er t o on e h a lf th e n umber of heddl es
-
.

h ol d th e wa rp b eam th u s givin g a grea ter di sta nc e bet ween

,

th e wa rp bea m a n d th e h a rn ess .
Pa t t er n H ar n ess
Th e pa ttern h a rness for F ig 4 5 5 c on sists of e igh t
W in g wit h T wo
.

D o u bl e e av H ar n esse s
h eddl es t wo for ea ch ch ange i n th e pa ttern These h ed
,
.

A grea t a dva nce wa s m ade i n the weav ing p a ttern s of

dles sh oul d b e a t l ea s t t welve i nch es l ong having sma l l ,

whe n th e i dea o cc u rred of p assi ng th e wa rp th rea d s eyes th rou gh wh ich th e pattern th read s a re d r a wn
th ro ugh two sets of h eddles ea ch set h avi ng i ts own sep ~
.

, Th e en ti re pa ttern i s th read ed fol lo wing th e th rea ding

a ra te func ti on t o perform suc h a s m a k ing th e gro und ,
d raft F ig 4 5 8 . .
,
form i ng the p a t tern o r b i nd ing a portio n of th e design
,
Th e T a b b y H ar n ess
s e p arately a s i s som etim es necessa ry
,

A good ex am pl e of th e a c tion of two sepa ra te h ar Th e t abby h a rn ess , c on si sti n g of fou r h eddl es , i s h un g

n e sses worki ng together i s a ffo rded by the do ubl e c lo th i n f ro n t of th e pa t tern ha rness Th e ta bb y h ed dles a re o f
.

pa ttern F ig 4 55 Th e ma ki ng of pl a i n double c l o th ha s
,
. .
th e sa m e l ength a s th e pa ttern b u t th e eyes a re a bou t
.

bee n f ul l y desc ribe d a t the begi n ni ng of th is ch apter .

fou r a nd o11 e l1 al f i nch es i n l engt h
-
.
 D O UBLE WEAVE 1 91
2 3 d a 3 2 1

Hed d l e:

Fi g . 4 5 9— Tr eadl i n g Draft fo r F ig .
1 92 FOOT
-
P OWER L O OM WEAVI N G 1

Fig . 4 6 0— Do ubl e P att e r n

1 94 FO O T -
PO WER LO OM WEAVI N G

L ov e r s C h ai n
’

4 62 D raft P att e r n
’
F ig .
—
. of

1
la ch p a t tern th rea d n o w pa ss es th r ong h a n ey e o f I f only the fi g u r e h a rness were u sed th e design woul d
'

th e tabby h a rness Th e th rea d i n g i s ( lone t h r o u gh th e

.
he formed b l i t th e th reads of both wa rp a n d weft wo u l d
,

t abby h a rn ess th e sa m e a s fo r dou bl e cl oth .

o n l y i n terl a c e wh ere th e bl a ck takes th e pla c e o f th e wh i te
0 1 th e wh ite t ha t O f th e bl ack
'

Th e l on g eyes o f th e tabb e s s a l l o w th e pa ttern

.

Th e pl a n ti e l ip an d t read li ng of th e double h a rn ess

' '

th rea ds to work u p a n d do wn
-
,

m eth od fo r th e p at ter n sh o wn i n F ig 4 55 i s given on p a ge .

Th e _
Wo rk o f th e F e H a r n e ss 1 9 1 , F ig . 4 59 .

Th e provi nc e of th e fi g u r e m ess i s t o fo rm the de Ex pl an a t i o n of T ie U p

-

si gn i n l a rge wi th o u t re g a rd
.
e b ind i ng 0 1
1
weaving of Th e tabby trea dl es a re i n th e m iddl e t he t read les ,

i t togeth er.
ca r r y i ng th e wh i te a re a t t he l eft a n d the bl a ck a t the righ t .

F ig . 4 63 —
L o e r s C h ai n
v
’
 PA TTEI i Y S FO R D O F RL/J HEA VI N G
’ '

19

a oq

0 0 .

Fig . 4 G4 —
Tr ead li ng D raft fo r th e L o r s C h ai n
ve
’

Fig . 4 65
—
L over s Ch ai n
’
196 FO O T -
P O WE R L O OM WEA VIN G

F ig . 4 6 6— D raft for Love r s Kno t P att er n

’

Th e tie up eon1 p1ete, the th i1 d bl ac k ti ea d le i s p l esse d

-
th i rd wh i te p a ttern to th e se cond b l a c k tabby A bl a c k
.

d o wn an d a t th e sam e tim e th e fi st wh ite tl ea d le i n th e th rea d i s pa ssed th ro ugh th e sh ed .

Th e thi rd sh ed i s made by p ressin g d o wn th e th ird

“

t abby .
1Th is i s i ndic at ed by th e doubl e l i ne ( h a wn f1 om
bl a c k pa ttern treadl e a nd the s ec ond wh i te t abby a nd
th e th i rd bl a ck p at ter n t o th e fi xst wh i te tabby A wh i te - ,

a wh i te th read pa ss ed th rough th e shed

.

th rea d is passed th rou gh th e sh ed th u s f0 1 m ed Th e sec

B y ca reful ly fol l o wing th e trea dl ing d ra ft th e weaver
o n d shed 1 s f0 1 med by p ressi ng do wn th e th i rd wh ite trea ca n not go ast ra y .

dl e a n d th e secend bl a c k of th e t abby a t t h e sam e tim e a nd A11 sol i d bl a ck l i n es i ndic at e col ored th reads wh ile th e
i s in di ca ted b 1? th e si n gl e con ti n u ou s l i ne ( 11 a wn fl om th e
’

dou bl e l ines i nd ic a te whi te Al l l ines wi th in b ra ckets i ndi

.

ramBcginnlné

Fig . 4 67 —
t
Th r ea 11ng
'
D raft of th e Love r s
’
Kno t —
T wo H ar ness
1598 FO O T P O -
WER L O OM W E A VI N G

Fig . 4 70 —
Th r eadi ng D raf t M os ai c P att e r n S i n gl e H ar ness
,
—

( a te th e n u mb er of times a series Oi threa ds i s to be r e

f
th rea di n g d ra f t a n d tie u p wit h ou t th e tabby d raft The
-
.

p ea t oa .
pa ttern i s th rea ded from t he begin ning to th e a rro w a s
I t 1 s wel l t o a l f ange th e sh u ttl es so tha t wh en th e 1 i h t 'r
m any ti mes a s desi red Th e pa rt of th e d raf t foll o win g th e
.

11 h i te tabby t i ea d l e i s pressed do wn th e wh i te sh u ttl e i s

a rro w i s th e border a nd i s th readed only on ce Th e th rea d
.

th ro wn f1 om th e l igh t an d whe n th e 1 igh t bl a c k t abb 1 i ng draf t b e com es th e tread li ng d raft i n th e doubl e weav
t 1 e e dl e i s p le ssed do wn th e sh u ttl e ca n y1 11 th e b l a c k 0 1 0
'

ing j ust a s i t does i n th e fou r h a rness weavi ng

bl u e th rea d i s th 1 own th rough th e sh ed .

Wh en weaving th e t rea dles i n group I a re p ressed

.

Wh en th el ef t wh ite t abby i s 111 essed dowll th e sh u t ,

tl e c a m y i n g th e 11 h i te 1 s th 1 o11 l1 from th e l ef t B y fol l o w .

do wn fi r st G rou ps I I I I I a n d I V f ol lo w i n thei r regul a r
.
,

in g th e above orde r it gr ea tl y s impl ifi es th e h a ndl in g o f

'
order T h e trea dlin g th en goes ba ck to grou ps I a n d I I
.

a n d th en do wn to gro up I V
th e sh u ttl es .

R epea t a ny pa rt ic ul a r group a s m a n y ti mes a s i s in

T he tre a dl ing d ra ft , F ig 4 5 9 i s a key to a l l t h e o ther
“

( l iea ted by th e bra c ket a n d fi g u r e

drafts .
"
.

F i gu re 4 63 sho ws th e th rea di ng dra ft for Lover s

“
‘

F igu re 4 6 0 sh 0 11 s a m os t a ttra c tive do ubl e pa t tern

'

, .

Ch a i n wh en th e doubl e h a rness i s u sed

‘

The t1 ead li11 g draf t i s sho wn i n F ig 4 6 1 a n d i s fol lo wed

“
.
.
,

F igu re 4 6 4 sho ws th e trea dl ing d ra f t fo r Lover s Ch ai n

’
th e sa m e a s i n F ig 4 5 9
. .

<
l ig 11 1 e 4 6 5 sh 0 11 s 1 1 h a t i s 11 11 0 11 11 a s Love i s Ch ai n
’
.
wh en th e do u bl e h a rn ess i s u sed .

Upon in spec tio n i t i s fo un d to c on tai n bu t fou 1 ch anges . An oth er wel l kn o wn doubl e wea v e is sho wn i n F ig .

Th e d raf t i s wri tten i n t wo way s

,
,
F i g 4 6 2 sho ws the
,
.

F ig . 47 1 —
T h r ea d i1 ng D raft fo r D o ubl e H ar nes s M os ai c P att er n
,
 MO S H70 PATTERN D RAFT 1 99

Fig . 47 2 —
T r e adl i ng D raft th e M sai c P att r n
o e

F ig . 47 3 — M ai c P att r n
os e
2 00 FO O T P O
-
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

Re pea t fr o m Ar r o w

F ig . 475
—
Tr e adl i ng D raft for C o unt erpa n e P att er n

Fig . 474 —
0 0 11 nter pa n e P att e r n
 F O O T P O W E R L O OM ll EA V IN G
’

2 02 -

Re pea l fr o m Be ginn ing

Pa i l;

F ig . 47 8 —
T r e adli ng D raft fo r P att e r n S h o w n in F ig . 479

F ig . 479
 D O UBL E WO VEN CO UN T E R PA N E S 2 03

F ig . 480 —
Th r ead i ng D raft fo r C ount e rpa n e ( S ee F ig . 482 )

prac tica l th rou gh i ts u s e m o s t compl i c a ted pa ttern s n ess i t woul d requ i re t wen ty h edd les {y u sing th e d o ubl e
.

m ay b e rep rod uced .

h a rness i t req u i res te n h eddl es fo r th e pa ttern a nd fou r
I t m u s t b e remembered t ha t th e d o u bl e ha rness th read fo r th e tabby .

in g i s th e sa m e a s th rea d in g th e en tire pa t tern t wic e F i rs t . F i gu re 4 7 6 gives th e th rea di n g fo r the pa tt ern wh i le ,

th e p attern i s th read ed a nd then th e tab by ha rn ess i s F ig 4 7 5 gives th e orde r of trea dl in g

. S inc e th i s i s th e
.

th rea d ed by d ra wi ng th ese sa m e th read s th rou gh th e l ong sa m e a s fo r th e fou r ( h a ng e pa ttern s wh i ch 11:1 1 a l rea dy

- r n

eyes of th e t abby h a rness Th e o r d er i n th is th rea d in g is been desc ribed it wil l n o t be n e cessa ry t o gi ve f u rth er
'

.
,

sim ply 4 , 3 2 1 every o th e r th rea d bei ng c ol ored

, , , . d eta il .

Figu re 4 7 4 sho ws a n i n teres tin g cou n terpa n e pa tter n , F igu re 4 7 9 is a pa t tern i nvol vi ng fi ve ch a nges F ig . .

i nvol vi ng five c h anges .

4 7 7 i s th e th rea d i ng d a f t fo r th e pa t tern a nd F ig 4 7 8
'
.

I f th e th rea ding d ra f t wa s written fo r th e s in gl e h a r gi ves th e treadl i n g d raft .

2 04 FO O T P O
—
WER L O OM WEA V IN G

Re pe a t f m Ar r o w 5
‘
ro
‘

x
-

F i g 48 1 Tr eadl i ng D raft
.
—
for C o unt er pane ( S ee Fig . 48 2 )
06 F O O T P O W E R L O OM WE A VI N G
-
'

Fi g : 4 8 4 —
'

Th r e a d iné D raft [or C o u nt erpa ne ( F ig . 483 )

'

I t m u st b e rememb ered tha t the th rea d ing o t the tabby

h ar n es s i s a l way s th e sa m e rega rdl ess of th e n u mb er of
c h an ges i n a pa ttern .

F igu re 4 8 2 sh o ws a do ubl e wo ven cou nterpa ne th a t

c am e origi nal ly f rom th e S t a te of New York The n ame .

i s u nk nown to th e a u thor .

Th e pa ttern th rea di n g d raft F ig 4 8 0 sh o ws fi ve

, ,

c h a nges Attenti on i s a ga i n ca l l ed to th e th rea ding of

.

th e pa ttern whi ch is th read ed from th e pl ac e m a rked

'

th e a rro w .

Th e par t of th e d ra ft wh i c h f o l lo ws th e a rro w i s the

border .

To th e n u mber of threa ds n ecessa ry fo r a ny par

fi nd
ticu l a r d r a ft, cou n t th e th reads in a repe a t a nd th en in u l
'

t ipl y by th e nu mber of tim es th e pa ttern i s to be repeated .

Th e border i s th rea ded b u t on ce F o rt y th rea ds a re u sual l y

.

u sed to th e i nc h t wenty bl u e a nd t wenty wh it e A n u mber

,
.

t wen ty reed i s u sed a bl u e a nd a wh ite th rea d dra wn

,

e pe a t r om
f A r r o w through ea ch ( l en t Eac h p attern is wri tten so t ha t two
.

Fig . 485— Tr e adl i ng D raft fo r C ou n t erpa ne I ll us trate d in F ig . 4 83

 D O UB LI]
'
W0 VEN ( ZO UN I ERPANES
' ' ‘

'

07
1 2 31 5 2 2 1 1 54 3 2 !

F ig . 4 87— Tr eadl i ng D raft

F ig . 4 8 6— A P att e r n in Th ree C o l o rs
0
7
h
C F O O T P O W E R LO OM WEAVI N G
-
'

F ig . 488 —
Th r ead i n g D raft for C o un t e rp ane I l l us trat e d in F ig . 48 6

F ig . 4 8 2) — P att e r n a nd A nal y s i s of C ou nt e rpa ne I ll us trat ed in F ig . 492

 FO O T - PO WER LO OM W EA VIN G
'

10

F ig 492 —
C ou n t e rpa ne in B l ue a nd Wh i t e
F ig Tr eadl i n g F ig 49 2 )
.

D r a tt for ( S ee
’

. 4 91 — .
 P/ l NES
D O UBL E l l’ O VEN CO UN TEI R 11

F ig . 4 93 —
P att e r n and A nal y i
s s or C o un t e rpa ne S h o w n in F ig . 496
2 12 FO O T -
P O W ER L O OM WEAVIN G

Fi g . 4 9 4— Th 1 ea d ing
'
D raft for F ig . 496

Th e p at tem th 1 ead ingd 1 af t fo r F ig 4 8 3 i s gi ven i n

. F igu re 4 8 5 gi ves a det a il ed trea d li ng d raf t fo r the
L1 g 4 8 4 .
N o d 1 aft is gi ven f0 1 th e t abby bec a u s e of the d ra ft F ig . 4 84 .

fac t th a t it i s a l way s th e sa m e f0 1 a ll p a tterns T h e th 1 ee d

. F ig 4 8 6
.gives a noth er fi ve ch an ge pa ttern i n whic h a
i ng i s th e sam e a s fo r th e pl a in doubl e weave n am ely ; , thi rd col or i s i n troduc e d I n th i s ca se th e sma l l sq u a res
.

4, 3, 2 , 1 .
a re of a m a dd er red I f th e red sq u a res a re to appea r on
.
214 F O O T P Oll’ ER
-
L O OM WEAVI N G
a wh i te ba ckgro un d th e red i s wa rped wi th th e wh ite .In Th e th readin g p attern fu l ly wri tten o u t i s sho wn i n
thi s p artic u la r p attern th e red sq u a res appea r 0 11 a bl u e F ig . 490 .

ba c kgrou nd s o th e red i s wa rped wi th th e bl u e

,
. I f th e si ngle h a rness pl a n of weav ing were u sed i n thi s
I n th e th rea din g a n d tread ling d ra fts a sli gh t va ri a pa rti cu l a r pa tter n it wou l d requ ire a h a rness of 2 4 h e ddl es .

tion ha s been m a de f rom th e pa ttern given i n F ig 4 8 6 . .

B y usi ng th e do uble h a rne ss a s given i n F igs 4 9 0 an d 4 9 1
.

I n stea d of givi n g th e border a s sh o wn i n 4 8 6 a pin e tree only si x teen h a rn esses a re req ui red t wel ve fo r t h e pa ttern
,

b order h a s been s ub stitu ted .

a nd fou r fo r th e tabby .

F igu re 4 9 2 sh o ws t h e com pl eted cou nterpa n e i n t wo

I f th e weaver wil l ca reful ly f o l lo w th e th rea din g
col o rs bl u e a n d wh ite
sho wn i n F ig 4 88 a n d th e t rea dl i n g d raft sh o wn i n F ig
.
,
. .

F i gu r e 4 9 3 sh o ws a n i nterestin g pa ttern ih wh ic h
4 8 7 the pa ttern sho wn i n 4 8 6 wi l l b e p rod uced wit h a pin e
,

eigh t c ha nges a ppea r Th e enti re a naly si s i s given to a id

.

t ree border Al l th e pa t tern s i n th is ch ap ter a re fo r c o u n

i n u ndersta ndin g th e wri ti ng of th e pa ttern d ra ft
.

ter pa nes a nd a re wri tten i n su c h a way t ha t th e two s tri p s

To weave th i s pa ttern u sin g th e si ngl e h a rn ess wo ul d
, ,
ne cessa ry fo r a c oun terpa n e may b e se wed togeth er .

req u i re a h a rness of 3 2 h eddl es B y u sin g th e do ubl e h a r

.

F igu re 4 8 9 sh o ws a p a ttern i n wh i c h si x ch a nges a p n ess o nly 2 0 h eddl es a re ne cessa r v 1 6 for th e pa ttern a nd

,

pea r Th e detai l ed a na lysi s i s given by dra win g th e ver ti ~

.
4 fo r th e tabb y .

c al an d h ori z on ta l l i nes in dic a ti ng th e c h anges Th e n mn F i gu re 4 9 4 sh o ws th e pa ttern th rea din g d raf t F ig

'

. . .

ber of th reads i n ea ch c h ange i s p la ced i n i ts p roper p l a ce , 4 9 5 giv es th e t rea dl i ng dra ft a nd Fig 4 9 6 sh o ws th e com
.

di rec tly b el ow t h e spots i n th e pa t tern .

p l ete pa ttern a nd bo rder i n a cou n terpa ne .
 CH A P T ER X .

T ex til es an d W oo d
Ap pli ca t i o n s t o Fu r n i t u r e A fter th e s too l i s c onstru c ted , uph ol ster i t with a p i ec e
Heretofore ve ry l ittl e h a s been do n e i n t h e c ombi n a of ha n d woven m a terial
-
. Thi s m ay be ei th er woven by
t io n of h a n d wove n tex til es a n d wood , y et there i s n o c om
'
the boy h im sel f o r by th e gi rl s i n th e weavi ng cl a ss of th e
b inatio n of m a terial s th a t gives suc h a l a rge va riety of
'

sch ool Here a ga i n a re m ore possibil i ties for m ak ing ea ch

.

a rtistic effec ts a s th i s o ne Th e d i fferen t ways i n wh ich

. piece m ore i ndivi d ua l , si n ce ea c h p iec e of m a teria l m ay be
th i s m a teria l may be u sed , i n comb i n a tio n wi th wood , a re of a di fferen t pa ttern , yet al l m ay b e woven from th e sam e
too n umerou s to m e n tion ; therefore , we sh al l ta ke o n ly th rea d ing 0 11 th e sam e loom .

th ose simpl e p robl em s wh i c h a re wi th i n th e ca pabil i ti es of Th i s m a terial m i gh t be u sed wh erever u ph ol stering i s

even a six th seven th , o r ei gh t h grade boy
,
-
. possibl e on a grea t va riety of h ou seh ol d fu rn i tu re wi th
,

m ost pl ea si n g a n d bea u ti ful resu l ts A l i ttl e tou ch of

.

Foo t S t oo l h a n d woven m ateria l gives to a ny a rti cl e u po n wh ich i t

-

Th e fi r st p robl em tha t we sugges t i s th a t of a smal l i s u sed a m ost sub tl e a ppea ra n ce .

foot stool , u ph ol stered i n ha n d wove n m a teri al F ig 4 9 7

-
. .
F igu re 49 8 sh o ws th e com pl e ted stool m a de from th e
sho ws th e worki n g d ra wi n g of th i s u ni q ue , b u t simpl e , l i t work in g d ra win g sh o wn i n F ig 4 9 7 Th e desi gn u sed fo r
. .

t l e foo t stool sh o wing th e wid e possibil i ties fo r i nd ivid ua l weavi ng th e ma teria l u sed i n u ph ol steri ng th is stool is
desi g n H ere i s a p robl em th a t a wh ol e c l a ss may con
.
one of th e m a n y p o ssibl e ones o f th e R ose P a th pa ttern .

struc t , a n d n o two m ad e al ike We h ave give n a fe w sug

W
.

gestio n s a s to h ow th e d esi gn of th e l egs o f th e stool m ay as e t B a s k et

be a l tered OP enl a rged u pon Th e si z e o f th e stool i tsel f
. F i gu re 5 00 sho ws th e wo rki ng d ra wi n g of a very sim
m ay be c h a nged wi th plea sing resu l ts by m ak i n g i t l onger ,
pl e wa ste ba sket tha t a ny si x th grade boy cou l d b u il d wi th
-

l o we r , o r n a rro wer, so th a t th ere a re a ny n umber of way s ou t m uch d ifficu l ty Th e on l y d if ficu l ty i s i n bori ng th e

.

of ch a ngi ng th e desi gn of th i s stool wi th ou t l os i n g any of h ol es a t th e p roper angl e .

i ts a rti sti c q u al i ties I t i s a m ost fl ex ib l e p robl em

. . T wo pi e ces o f cl oth a re wo v en th e l en gth o f t wo sides
2 16 FO O T -
PO WER LO OM WEAVIN G

Fi g Worki ng D ra w i n g U ph ol s t e r e d F oo t S t oo l
’

. 4 97 —
of
218 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA VIN G

Fi g . 50 0 —
W o rk i n g D ra w i n g of W a st e B a s k et
 TEX TI LES AND WO O D 219

T ha t th is c ombi na tio n m akes a b ea u tiful a s wel l a s

u sefu l p iec e of fu r n i ture may be see n from th e p hotograph
sho wn in F ig 503 Th e c l oth i s wove n from th e O ra n ge
. .

P eel p atter n , a border b ei n g woven a t t h e t op a n d bottom

to b rea k u p th e spac e .

T h o ugh th e constr uc tio n of th i s sc reen i s simpl e, it

sho u l d b e m a de a s a group p robl em r a ther th a n a n i ndi
vidu a l o ne ; t h e boy s to m ak e th e f ram e, a n d t h e gi rl s t o
we a v e th e c l oth .

F i gu re 504 sho ws th e work i n g dra win g of a n other very

a ttrac tive scree n of diff ere n t c onstruc tio n f rom th e fi r st
o n e m en tioned I n th is sc ree n b u il d th e in sid e f ram es a s
.

sho wn , of a n y l umber, th e n c over both f ron t a nd bac k wi th

th e cl oth , ta ck in g i t al on g th e o u tside edges of th e f rames .

M ak e th e gr oove d strip s a s sh o wn , an d t a c k them o n th e

o u tside ed ges o f th e fram e , c overin g u p th e edges u pon
wh ic h th e c l oth h a s b ee n t acked . Th i s gives a very nea t
a n d eff ec tive fi nish to th e sc reen , si n c e a l l o f th e f ra me
tha t sh o ws is th e l it tl e grooved m o ul d in g o n th e o u tside
edges .

F igure 5 0 5 sh o ws h ow a t trac t ive th is ki n d o f a scree n

c a n be m ade to l ook by j us t u sing strips of h a n d woven -

c l oth , emb roidered wi th rop e sil k . Obse r ve h ow be a u ti

ful l y th e pa nel s a re b roken by skil fu l des ign ing .

50 1 — F i ni sh e d S ew i ng B a s k e t
22 0 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM
'
WEA VIN G

F ig . 50 2 —
W rk i n g D ra w i ng
o of S cr e e n
22 2 FO O T
-
PO WER LO OM W EA V I NG
'

W or ki ng D ra w i n g of S cr een
TEX TI LES A ND WO O D 0
1
 CH A P T ER X I
T h e D esign a nd Co nstr u ctio n of L oo m s
D a ni s h Lo o m

Th e fol l o wi ng c u ts sho w th e worki ng d ra wi ngs for

bo th th e D a n i sh a n d S wedi sh l oo ms I f l i gh t work only .

i s des ir ed th en th e D a ni sh l oom sh o wn i n F i g 50 6 i s th e
'

l oom to con st ruc t F i g 507 sho ws th e fro n t workin g dr a w

. .

i ng F i g 5 0 8 sh o ws th e side a n d F ig 50 9 sh o ws t he deta i l
. . .

d r a wi n gs of th e va ri ou s pa rts .

Sw e di s h Lo o m

F igu re 5 1 0 sho ws th e c omp l eted S wedish l oom If .

sp a c e i s ava il abl e thi s is th e l oom to h ave On th is l oom .

m ay b e wove n ve r y fi n e a rticl es a s wel l a s th e Col on ia l

rugs O u th e D a ni sh l oom only th e l igh ter work c a n b e
.

s ucc essful ly woven F ig 5 1 1 sh o ws th e workin g d ra win g

. .

for th e fro n t of S wed ish l oom F i g 5 1 2 sh ows th e side ,

. .

a n d F ig 5 1 3 sh o ws th e detai l d r awin gs of th e bea ter, wa rp

.

b eam , heddl e sticks a n d o ther m ov a bl e p a rts .

Fly Sh u t tl e
Th e de ta il e d dr awin g, F i g 5 1 4 , i s th a t of a fiy sh u ttle
.
-

'

l oom The ba tten or bea te r of a ny l oom m ay be m a de i n to

.

t h a t of a fl y s h u ttl e-
.

Th e fl y sh u ttl e a rra n gem e n t i s especia l ly p r ac tica l i n

-

th e we av ing of m a teri a l s th a t req u i re b u t on e sh u ttl e Th e .

n ec es s ar y m a teri a l s may b e p u rch a s ed of R B S tree t 5 4 3 . .

,

Wes t “ a sh i n gt on street, Ch ic ago

'

i
F g . 50 6 —
S ke
 PO WER L O OM WEA VIN G
l

2 6
'
FO O T
'
-
 C ON S TR UC TI O N OF L O OM S

F ig . 509 — W rki ng D ra w i ng
o of L oom D etai l s
—
FO O T PO-
WER L O OM WEA VIN G

F ig . 5 1 0— F i n i sh e d L oom Sw ed i sh
—
2 30 FO O T —
P OWER L O OM WEAVI N G

F ig . 51 2 —
W o rk i ng D ra w i ng of Sw e di s h Loo m
 CO N S TRUC TI ON OF L O OM S

F ig . 5 1 3— W o rki ng D ra w i ng of Sw ed i sh L oom D e tail s

—
 P OWER L O O M WE A V IN G
“

' '
2 32 FO O T
-

! EC T ! O N T H E U A R -

SECT ION

FLY S HUT T LE BEAT EE

OECT ooN THPU D B

-

Fig . 51 4 —
Fl y S h u ttl e
2 34 F O O T-PO WER L O OM WA E VI N G

Mor d an t 2 . Gr eenish Y ello w

A l l m a teri a l i s m orda n ted befo re dyeing . S om etimes Ya rn 2 50 g r .

t he m o r d ant i s p la ced i n th e dy e i tsel f b u t m ore ofte n F res h wil d pa rsley 1 kg .

A l u m ( m o rdan t ) 3 5 gr
'

th e m a teri a l i tself i s m orda n ted befo re pl ac i n g in th e dye .

.

Al u m i s a u sefu l m orda n t fo r m ost vegetabl e dyes When B oi l th e p a rsl ey on e h o u r d ra i n a dd th e al um sti r

m
.
, , ,

a l u m i s u s ed i t m u s t b e boi led i n order to b ec om e thor wel l u n ti l a l u m h a s dissol ved B oi l a teri al i n sol u tion .

ou gh ly di ssol ved Al l goods m u s t b e wet befor e en teri ng

. f rom to 1 h r .

th e m orda n t .

I f vi triol s a re u sed in mo rd a n tin g th ey m u s t be pl aced 3 . Gr eenis h Y ell o w

i n l uk ewa rm wa ter o n ly Morda n t m a teri a l s f rom on e to

.
- Ya rn o o o 2 50 gr
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o .

two ho u rs .
A l um ( morda nt ) 3 2 gr .

Wh en mo r cl a nting the m a teri a l sh oul d b e wel l cov

F resh a l der 1 kg .

er ed wi th wa ter .
Mordan t th e m ateria l fi r st B oil the l eaves . 1
d ra i n a d d mo rda n t e d m a teria l an d boi l
,
to 1 hr .

Fo r m u l ae for D y ei n g
4 . S tr o ng Gr eenish Y cNow
Th e fol lo wi ng reci pes h ave been s uccessful ly tried o u t
Ya rn 2 50 g r
a n d a re o ffered to th ose wh o a re i n teres ted e nou gh to no t
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o .

A l u m ( mordan t ) 4 0 gr .

only u se wh a t i s h ere s uggeste d b u t to m a k e f u rth er i1i

B ayberry l ea ves 5 00 gr .

vest ig a tion i n th e b roa d fi el d of vegetabl e dy es

Mo rdan t t he m a teria l fi r st B oi l th e f resh
.

1m d rai n a nd a dd m orda n ted ya m boi l f rom 1 ,

Y e ll o w s
,

a cc o r di n g to d ar kn ess of c ol or desi red

‘

1 . Wa c
o Y el l o w
Y a rn 2 50 gr . Gr eenis h Y ellow
( Al u m ( mo rda n t ) 3 2 gr .
Ya rn 2 5 0 gr .

F resh bayberry gr .
D r y bi r ch l eaves 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 0 g r .

M orda n t befo re dy ei ng boi l th e l eaves on e A l u m( morda n t ) 3 2 gr .

a dd m aterial a nd bo il on e h ou r .
S oak th e leaves th e day before u sing .
 YELL O W D Y E S 235

B oi l th e soa ked l eaves fo r on e h o u r a n d s trai n . Add M orda n t th e ya r n i n th e us ua l way C h op th e a l der .

th e a l u m t o th is sol u tion a nd bo i l y a rn i n it from to ba rk fi ne, a n d soa k th e day before u sin g B oi l from 2 to .

1 hr . 3 h r , d rai n a n d boi l th e y a r n i n th e l iq u id l h r o r l onger

. .

I f t he y a rn i s d ried wi th o u t ri n si n g a n d th en pl a c ed i n a c c o rdi n g to th e d ep th of col o r desi red .

a Wea k bi rc h a sh lye th e c ol o r b ec omes a red di sh y el l o w .

6 . Yello w
R ed dis h Re d s

Ya rn 2 5 0 gr .
9 . D a r k R ed
A l u m ( m orda n t ) 4 0 gr . Ya r n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 50 gr .

D r y appl e ba rk . 2 5 0 gr
. . C rea m of ta rta r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 6 gr .

M orda n t
Th e m a teri a l i s fi r s t m orda nted i n th e a l u m wa ter . Al u m 6 5 gr .

C u t th e ba rk i nto sm al l p ieces a n d soa k th e d ay b e M adder 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 50 g r .

fo re u si ng I t i s th en bo iled t wo h o u rs an d strai n ed
M orda n t th e ya rn fo r t wo h ou rs a nd l et i t rem a i n in
. .

B oi l th e m o rda n ted y a r n i n th e ba rk l i q u id f rom

th e l iq u i d til l cool , th en rin se i n l uke wa rm wa ter .

to 1 h r
Th e ya rn m ay be all o wed to d ry af te r removi ng from
.

B y u s ing mo re ba rk a nd bo il ing l onger a da rke r y el l o w

the m o rda n t ; th en i t i s rin sed i n wa rm wa te r before i t i s
i s ob ta i ned .

p u t in th e m a dder l iq u id .

Th is c ol o r fad es a l i ttle if i t i s no t very da rk .

Th e m a d der i s p u t to soa k th e day before i t i s to be

7 . eY el lo w y u sed i n enou gh c ol d wa ter to m ak e a very th i n s ol u tio n .

Ya rn I f there a re h a rd l um ps they m us t b e r ubbed a pa rt

Al u m ( mo rda n t ) 4 0 gr .
i n o rder to th o roughly soa k ‘Vh en ready to dye th e s oaked .

K i n niki nn i c 1 kg .
m adder m ass i s p u t i n cl ea n c ol d wa ter a nd wh en l uke
Chop th e ki n ni kin n ic tin e a n d bo i l fo r 3 h r D ra in .
wa rm th e m orda n ted y a r n i s add ed .

a n d boi l th e m orda n ted m a teria l i n th e l iq ui d f rom V to )

Th is i s h ea ted sl o wly to 6 0 d egrees or 7 0 degrees Cen ti
1 hr .
grad e o r h o t en ou gh to b u rn on e s fi nge r s S ti r th e y a rn ’
.

8 . B r o wnis h Y e l lo w c on stan tly a nd k eep th e sol u tion a t th e sa me tem pera tu re

Ya rn 2 5 0 gr . a s l on g a s th e ya rn i s i n it I t m us t n o t bo il I f th e y a rn
. .

Al u m ( m orda n t ) 3 2 gr . i s n o t s ti rred i t b ec om es spotted a s th a t pa rt of th e m ad

Al ba rk 2 kg d e r l iq u i d th a t h ea ts th e q u ic kest gives a st ron ger col o r
de r
.

'
2 36 FOO T -
P OWER L O OM WEA VIN G
12 . Lig h t Y ell o wish R ed
th a n th e other Th e red c ol ori ng m a tt er i n th e m a d der
.

Ya rn 2 50 g r
dissolves wi thou t boi l i ng , b u t wi th boi li n g th e o th er in
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O .

A l u m ( m o rda nt ) 4 0 gr
g r edients i n the m a dder a re al so dissolved a n d these c a u se
.

M adder 7 5 gr
th e r ed co lo r to l ose i ts b righ tn ess a nd ch a nge i t to bro wn
.

M orda n t as i n N o 1 1 bu t k eep the ya r n

.

Wh en th e ya rn h a s been i n t h e m adder l i q ui d fo r th e r e l iq u id o n l y 1A
.

; hr
q u ired ti m e i t i s al l o wed to rem a i n i n th e sol u tion u n ti l
.

c ool K ee p s ti rri ng u n ti l cool

. .
13 . P a le R ed
I t i s th en ri n sed a n d wa she d i n severa l wa ters t o r e Ya rn O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

m ove th e l oose m a dder Al um ( m orda n t )

Wh en th e y a rn i s a l l o wed t o d ry after bei ng morda nted M adder 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

th e r ed c ol o r becom es a l i ttl e dar ker Al l da rk m adder. .

T rea t a s i n N o 1 2
. .

c ol ors are absol u tely fas t Th e l igh ter o n es fa de a l i ttl e

.

a s th e y ears go by . 14 . R o se R ed
Ya rn 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 50 gr .

A l u m ( mo rda n t ) 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 gr .

M ediu m M a dd er R ed M a dder 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 gr .

Ya rn M orda n t th e y a rn a s u su al ; wh e n c ool wrap th e wet

C rea m of tarta r m a ter i a l i n a c l oth so i t does no t dry o u t Al l o w i t t o l ie
M o rda n t .
.

Al u m i n t h is way from 6 to 8 day s I t i s th en treated with m a d .

M a dder der a s above m en tio n ed .

Tre a t th e sa me a s N o . 9 . Th e y a r n sh oul d be sq u ee z ed in a l i ttl e lu ke wa rm wa

ter before p u tti ng i t i n th e col o r l i q u id .

11 . Lig h t Ma dd er Ter r a
Ya rn 2 5 0 gr .
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

A l u m ( m o rdan t ) 4 0 gr .

M a dder 1 2 5 gr .
M orda n t

Morda n t th e yar n o n e h ou r and keep i t wa rm 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

c ol or l iq ui d f rom 1A
? to 1 h r . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2 38 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM W
EA VIN G

B oi l fo r 1 0 m i n u tes , k ee p ing th e sc u m skim med from th e Mo rdan t the y a rn a s u s u al .

su rfac e Of th e be i l1 a g ‘ B oi l th e ya r n fo r h r i n th e sol u tion l ef t f rom 1 6 or

.

Ad d th e yel l owl sh t m SOI U UOD a s 1 11 NO 1 7 a n d Pll t th e 17 .Th e c ol o r b ec om es l ighter a fter th e u se of N o 1 7 than .

d r y y a rn 1 nto the boi l ing m i x tu re tu r n i t q u ickly a rou nd

, after N o 1 6. .

a nd l a ter t u rn a l i ttl e m ore sl o wly B oi l 1 h r

. .

Lig h t Ca r mine
F la g Co l o r
Ya rn
Ya rn
A l um
Ti n
C rea m of ta rta r M OI
‘
d zl l l t
N i tric a c id
S ta rc h
Water o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Coch i nea l
C rea m of ta rta r
C rea m of ta rta r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

C oc h i nea l
Mord a n t th e ya r n 1 h r
T hea t the sam e a s i n N o
.

18
Th e sta rc h m u st be m i x ed wi th a l i ttl e col d wa ter b e
. .

'

fore i t i s a dded to th e m orda n t .

20 . D a r k Ca r mine B oi l th e soa ked c och inea l a nd c ream of tarta r i n fres h

Ya rn wa te r for 1 5 m in u tes .

C rea m of ta rta r .

M orda n t The m o rda n ted y a rn i s boi l ed i n thi s from

C och i n ea l 1 6 gr .

M ordan t th e ya rn for 2 h rs a n d cool I n fresh wa ter

. .
D u ll Ca r m in e
p ut th e po wdered soaked coch i nea l an d boi l fo r 1 5 m in u tes .

Ya rn
Th e ya r n i s ad ded a n d boil ed fo r 2 h r s , wh en i t i s Al u m
t a ken ou t a n d d ried .
Cr ea m of ta rt ar
C och i nea l 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Ma dder
C ar mine
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

21 .

S ta r ch
2 50 gr :
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Y a rn
Al u m ( morda n t ) 4 0 gr .
Mo rda n t a s usua l .
 RED D Y ES 2 39

S oa k th e coc h i nea l a nd th e m adder togeth er a nd boi l m ai n 1 Th e B ra z i l wood wh ic h h a s been soa k ed is

for 10 m in u tes
. pl a ced i n a bag a nd thi s i s bo il ed i n c l ea n wa te r hr
D i ssolve th e s ta rc h i n c ol d wa ter a nd p u t i t i n before Th e bag i s now rem oved a n d th e m a dder c ol ored y a r n is
th e y a rn i s add e d to th e c old sol u tion boi l f ro m to 1 hr .
n o w b oi l ed i n th is sol u tio n from to 1 h r Let i t l i e in
.

th i s sol u t ion til l c oo l ed a l it tl e Th en i t i s tak e n ou t a n d

.

24 . Ro se Red th e p otash wh i c h h a s been wel l dissol ved , i s a dd ed t o th e

,

Y am sol u ti on a n d th e ya rn i s r e e n tered a n d l ef t fo r 1 0 0 1 1 5
- - '

Al u m ( m orda n t ) m i n u tes Al lo w th e y a r n to rema i n i n th e sol u ti o n til l coo l

.

B oi l h r i n mo rda n t
. .
a n d th en wa sh i n s tron g soa p sud s Thi s i s a n i nex pen sive
.

r e d bl u e col o r bu t i t i s no t so p ret ty as th e S a l m o n Red

B oi l h r i n sol u tio n l ef t i n 1 7
. I f th e col o r i s to be
.
.

of a l igh t sh ade doubl e th e a m ou n t of y a rn o r th ro w a way 0

7 R ed
h al f th e col o r sol ution a n d a d d cl ea r wa te r
.

2
Ya rn 50 g r .

25 . S a l mo n Red Al u m 4 0 gr .

M ord a n t
Y a rn 2 5 0 gr .
Crea m of t a rta r 1 6 gr .

Th e d ry u nm orda n te d y a rn i s boil ed f rom 14 to hr .

B ed st ra w roots 2 50 g r .

i n th e sol u tio n l ef t i n N o 1 8 o r N o 1 9 I f m ore y a rn i s

. . .
Mord an t th e y a rn from 1 to 2 h rs .

taken th e c ol o r becom es l igh ter ; i t i s al so l i gh ter wh en Th e d r y roots a re gro un d o r ch opped fi n e and p ut to

us in g N o 1 8 th a n wh en u si n g N o 1 9
. . .

soak .

th e dy ei n g th e ya rn i s trea ted th e sam e a s was

D u ri ng
26 fr o m B r az il l Vood
R ed
d esc ri bed i n N o 9 , fo r m adde r c ol o r i ng , bu t i n th i s ca se th e
.

Ya r n 2 50 gr
ya r n i s boi l ed a l it tl e to wa rd th e end
.

Al u m 4 0 gr l
.

M o u l a nt
C r ea m of ta rta r 1 6 gr
Dar k Red
.

M a dder 4 0 gr .

B r az i l wood 40 g r .
Ya r n 2 5 0 gr .

P o ta sh 7 gr .
G rou nd p in e ( m orda n t ) . 2 5 0 gr .

M o rdan t a s u sual a fter wh i ch th e ya rn i s pl a ced i n Madd er o r be d st ra w . . 2 50 gr .

m a dd er sol u tion a s desc r ibed i n N o 9 a nd al lo wed to r e

.
M o rd an t th e ya rn i n gro un d pi ne i n th e fol lo wi ng way
240 FO O T -
P OWER LO OM WEA VIN G

Th e groun d pi n e is c h opped fi ne a n d soaked i n as m uch Wh en

u sing weigh o r m ea su re th e Ol iu m i n a d r y
,

wa ter a s i s n eeded for th e dy eing Th i s mi x tu re i s h ea ted

. gl ass a n d pou r ca reful ly in t o col d wa ter before pl aci ng i n
every day an d m us t rem a i n i n a wa rm pl ac e wh ere i t ca n th e dy e Nev er pou r water i n to th e Ol iu m , a s i t eti er vesces
.

be kep t l uke wa rm After 3 o r 4 days i t ac q u i res a sou r

. a n d m ay i n j u re th e ey es Wh en th e Oliu m i s kep t i n a n
.

smel l B oi l wel l a n d stra i n As i t boil s a dd a l i ttl e wa ter

. . . a i r tigh t bo ttl e i t m ay be kep t for a l ong tim e
, .

I n th i s s trai ned sol u ti o n p u t t he wet y a rn a n d h ea t every Al l th e rec ipes fo r b l u e wh ic h fol lo w, a re based on

‘

d ay fo r th ree o r fo u r days a n d l e t i t sta nd i n a warm pl ace .

Oliu m m ea su red i n a grad ua ted gl a ss I f weigh ed tak e .

,
Th e l a st d ay bo i l wel l .
doubl e a s m any gram s I f th e sul ph u ri c ac id i s p oo r , th e
.

Th e y ar n wi l l th en h ave a l igh t y el lo wish , green gra y i ndigo wil l not diss ol ve, a n d th e c ol o r wil l run To p rove .

col or an d a sou r sm el l .
th a t th e i ndigo i s wel l dissol ved t ake a few d rop s of th e
Th e y a rn i s nowrinsed a n d a ll o wed to d ry before i t i s
,

Oliu m , m i x wi th wa ter a n d stra i n th rou gh a fi lter ing pa

,

col ored red .

p er I f th e fil ter ed dy e i s s til l bl u e th en th e i n di go ha s
.
,

Th e m a dder i s p repa red a s d es c ribed i n N o 9 B efore . .

been p roperl y di ssol ved , b u t if n ot , th e dy e wil l b e wh ite
’

th e y a r n i s pu t i n to th e red dy e i t m u s t be wel l sq u ee z ed i n ln l igh t bl ue

!
.

wa rm wa te r .

Wh en Ol ium i s to be u sed i n dyein g i t sh ou l d be m ea s ,

Th e P re pa ra t i o n of O l iu m u r ed or weighed i n a d r y gl ass , a s before desc ribed , a n d

d ropped or pou red sl o wl y in to th e l uke wa rm wa ter a nd
Th e N or wegian s suc ceed i n getti ng m os t bea u tiful wel l sti rr ed .

sh a des of bl ue th rough th e u se of wh a t th ey c al l Ol iu m ,
th e c ol or i s too l igh t m ore O l iu m m ay b e a dded
If
wh ic h i s m ad e i n the fol l o wi n g way : , ,

b u t some of th e boil i ng dy e l iq u i d m u s t be t h ro wn a way ,

I n digo i s dissol ved wi th s ul ph u ric a c i d by m ix ing 1 5
a n d th e rem ai n der m ix ed wi th c ol d wa ter before th e O l iu m
_

g r po w dered i ndigo w i th 1 2 5 g r of sm ok in g sul ph u ric ac id

.
.

i s a dded I f the l iq ui d i s too wa rm , wh en the goo ds i s p u t

.

P u t abou t 1 0 gr of sul ph u ric ac i d an d a l i ttl e ind igo sa y

.
fl

ih , it becom es streaked o r c l ou ded even th ough i t h a s been

in a gl a ss j ar or bottl e wi th a wel l fi tting stopper
,
2 gr — .

dyed p reviou sly As soo n a s th e y a r n h as bee n bo il ed i n

'
.

S tir th i s ti l l i t is smooth Use a gl ass rod o r if n ec es sary .

.
,
th e dy e i t wil l be seen wh eth e r i t i s too l igh t as by th a t
a h a r d woo d s ti ck : Meta l m u s t n o t be u sed Af ter th i s ,
.
,

tim e a l l dy e wi l l h ave been d ra wn i nto th e goods I f i n

p u t a l i ttl e of eac h i n to the j a r a nd sti r , and so cont inu e
.

th e h e a ting i t i s ge ttin g too da rk a pa r t of th e l iq u id i s

u ntil al l h a s been u sed P u t stopper fi r ml y i n bo ttl e and
.
, ,

a ll ow th em i x tu re to s ta n d a t l ea s t 2 4 h ou rs before u s in g .
thro wn ou t an d th e rem ain der l igh tened wi th wa ter before
242 FO O T -
P OWER L O OM WEAV{N G
ere d by th e dy e u n ti l cool , u n l es s they a re consta n tly 5: Wa ter B lu e
sti rred i n th e dye Th i s l iq u i d form s a c ru s t o n th e s u r
.
Ya r n
fac e i n th e c ool i n g wh ich spots the good s o r y a r n n ea r th e A l u m ( mo r da n t )
su rfac e . Oliu m
D ul l M ed iu m B lu c
H a n dle as above
32
.

Al u m Th e l igh ter col ors wi th O l iu m a re n o t absol u te ly f as t

( m orda n t ) 40 gr
.
.

Ol iu m 8 gr
. .
Th ey becom e sl igh tly greeni sh after bein g u sed a n d c a n not
M a dder 1 5 gr .
be washed i n sod a wat er .

Th e y a rn i s m orda n ted a s us ua l S om e of th e morda n t

.

6 . D ar k B lu e wi th Gr o und P 44 1 6
wa ter i s th ro wn awa y a nd enough col d wa tei i s a dded to '

m a ke th e l iq ui d l uke wa rm A dd th e Oliu m
'
Ya rn 2 5 0 gr
sti r well , p u t
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

.
,
G rou n d p ine 2 5 0 gr
in th e ya rn a nd h ea t sl o wly , stir ri n g c on s ta n tly
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

Log wood
.

1 00 gr
B o il Ad d en ough c ol d wa te r to
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

h r an d tak e o u t
. .

th e l iq u i d to ma ke i t l uke wa rm a n d add th e dissolve d m a d

The grou nd p in e i s c h opped fine a n d soak ed i n a s
d er a n d sti r wel l
'

Add th e y a rn a n d h ea t slo wly , sti rri ng

.
m uch wa ter a s is n eeded fo r th e dyei n g Th e wh ol e i s
'

c o n s ta n tly a n d evenly B oi l 11 12 , th en c ool , rin se and

h ea ted da i ly a nd i s pl aced wh ere i t c a n b e kep t l uke wa rm .

Wh en af ter th ree or fou r day s i t h a s ac q u i red a sou ri sh

.

wa sh .

odor, i t sh ou l d be wel l bo il ed a n d strained Th ewa te r wil l .

33 . B r ig h t Mediu m Bl d imi ni sh i n th e boil i ng th erefore su ffi cient wa te r m u s t be

,

Y am 2 5 0 gr .
ad ded so th a t there is enou gh for dy ei ng Wh e n th e grou nd .

A l um ( mo rda n t ) 4 0 gr : p i n e h a s been strai ned , th e wet y a rn i s pl ac ed i n th e l i qu i d

Oliu m 5 g rj .
a n d h ea ted every day for th ree o r fo u r d ay s and kep t i n a
Th e y a rn i s morda n ted and dy ed a s a bove .
warm p l ac e Th e l as t day i t is b oi led ; th e y arn sh oul d
.

i s t h rough b oil in g i n th e dye l iq u id th e y a r n th en h ave a l igh t , y el lo wi sh , green g r ay col or a nd a sou r

ri n s ed a n d wash ed .
odor .

3! Lig h t B flwe T he l ogwo od , wh ic h was p u t t o soak th e day be fore ,

Y ar n i s pl aced i n a b ag an d bo il ed in cl ea r wa ter 1 h r and then .

Al um ( m orda n t ) removed Th e y a r n i s now~

. wr u ng ou t of th e grou n d pin e
H a ndl e th e sam e a s above .
l i q ui d a n d b oi l ed i n th e l ogwood l i q u id hr t o 1 h r It . .
 G REE N D Y E S 243

i s th en ta ken ou t a nd d ried Wh en d r y p la ce i t for sev

.
,
o r i ro n su l pha t e, th e green wil l becom e da rke r bu t i t i s a n
era l h ou rs i n a wea k bi r c h a sh ly e a nd wa sh The l v e i s . oth er to ne gray o r b r o wni sh
,
.

'

ma d e by pu ttin g the a sh es i n wa rm wa ter .

Cer tai n pl a n ts give a green ( ly e wi tho u t u si n g b l u e .

Wi th m o re l o gwood a da rker col o r i s ob ta ined

,
.
Th e y el l o w dy e i n th ese pl a n ts wi ll by th e a dd i tion o f a n
,

Th is c ol o r is fa s t for coverin g bu t shou l d n ot be u sed i ro n o r c opp er sal t becom e green bu t th e y a rn wi l l h a ve

, ,

fo r h ue r covers 0 1 ru gs I n tim e it bec om es sl igh tly gra v 1 sh ade of gray or b ro wn

'
.
.

i sh i n col o r .

Gr een wi t h B irch Le av e s
37 . D a r k B l ue with C hickweed
,

F o r th ese dy es , both fresh a n d d ried l eaves m ay be

u sed Th ree kg fresh l eav es m ak e 1 kg d ried l e av es
. . . .

F res h c h i ck weed l pa i l We m us t th erefore c ou n t on u sin g th ree times a s m uc h

Al u m ( m orda n t ) 3 2 gi n fresh leaves a s drie d i n th e dyei n g Th e recipes a re m ade
.

Log wood 50 g r .
o n th e ba si s of d ried l eaves The l eaves a re soak ed th e
.

Th e ch ick weed i s boil ed 1 h r a nd d ra i ned Th e a l um. . day before a nd a re boi led i n enough wa ter t o ma k e th e
i s added to th e l iq uid a nd wel l sti rred Th e wet u nm o v
, _
. nec essa ry dy e l iq u i d a n d a re th en s tra i ned The boi li ng .

da nt ed y a rn i s taken , a n d ad ded to th e l iq u id a nd boil e d i s don e so tha t al l dy e m a teria l i n th e l eaves m ay b e h ad .

1 h r a n d ta ken ou t
. A sm al l ba g fi l led wi th th e soa k e d
. Afte r stra ini ng , th e l eaves a re r in sed wi th a l ittl e cl ea r wa
l og wood is boil ed i n th e l iq u i d hr . ter , an d th is i s a dd ed to th e l iq u id wh ic h i s coo l ed wh il e
Add th e ya m a n d l e t i t boi l 1 h r wi th th e l og wood ba g on e i s dy ei n g th e ya rn bl ue
'

. . .

Th e y a rn l ies i n th e l iq u id u nti l c old . Th e ya rn i s m orda n ted wi th th e am o u n t o f al u m cal led

I t a da rker dye is wa n ted u se m o r e l og wood ,
. fo r i n th e recipe .

Wh en dy ein g b l ue th ro w o u t h a l f th e ino r da nt wa ter

,

Gr ee n D yes a nd ad d c lea r c ol d wa ter a nd th e pl 0 p0 1 a mo un t of O l ium

' '
.

Th e p u re gree n c ol o rs a re a l way s com posed of a ye l O l iu m i s m ea su red i n a grad ua ted gl ass o r i s d ropped

l o w a nd bl u e dye s tu ff These a re mos tly ma de by fi rs t
.
( c o u n tin g th e d rops ) c a refully i n to th e wa te r wh ic h ha s
dy ein g th e good s blu e , a nd th e n boi l ing i t in a y el lo w dye b en h ea ted to a bo u t 2 0 C, a nd is wel l s ti rred Th e wet,
e
°
.

T o ob ta i n a d a rk g ree n th e bl u e fo un da t io n m u s t b e m ad e wel l wrun g ya rn , a l ready m o rd a n ted , i s pla ced imm e di

da rk enou gh th e fi r s t tim e No a m ou n t of boi l i ng i n th e
. a tely i n th e l uke wa rm bl ue l iq u id I t is s ti rred a nd tu rned
.

yel l o w dy e wil l m ak e th e good s da rker B y a d d i ng m add er . q u ickly a r o u n d wi th a sti ck Th is i s kep t u p c o nsta n tly
.
2 44 F O O T-PO WER L O OM WEAVI N G
a n d wh i l e th e l iq u i d is s l owl y b oi l in g B y th a t tim e, a l l . F or th e l igh t after cl yes a dd to th e cool ed dy e 1 t o 5
-
,

th e dye st ufl wil l h ave bee n ab sorbed by th e y a r n and i t

-
"
d rops Oliu m if o nly l igh t c ol ors h ave been bo il ed i n i t an d
,

may b e l eft to boi l sl o wly hr . i t c on t a in s no bl u e .

Un less on e i s exce ed i ngl ycar ef ul i n th e b l ue dyei ng ,

Whenever da rk dyed b l u e h as been bo iled i n the b i rch '

the y a rn b ec om es c lou d ed an d th i s ca n no t be c orrec ted l a l eaf , som e of th e bl u e rem ai n s .

ter bu t b ecom es m o re n oticeabl e wh en dyed green

, . Ya rn a n d cl oth a re h a ndled i n the sa m e way , wi th th e
Wh en th e ya rn h as been dy ed i t i s c ool ed i n th e l iq u id ,
e x c ep tion th a t wool i s to b e bo il ed sl o wly wh il e c l oth i s ,

before i t i s tak en o u t I t i s th en wel l wru n g p u t a gai n 0 11

.
,
boi led q u ic kly a nd kep t i n con stan t m oti on .

th e stick a n d pl ac ed i n th e m i l k wa rm ( a bo u t 3 0 C )
°
-
, ,
V ari a tions of th e bi rc h l eaf dy ei ng a re endl es s among -

bi rc h l e a f l i q u i d I t i s consta ntly t u r n ed a n d kep t i n sl o w

-
. the fol lo win g rec ipes
m otio n u nt i l th rough boi l in g T he l onger i t i s kep t i n th e
D ar k B l u e Gr een NO
.

38 . . 1
bi rc h l eaf l i q ui d t he s tronger th e green c ol or I t sh oul d
-
.
,
Ya r n 2 50 g r .

no t bo i l m ore tha n 1 h r I f th e y ar n i s n ot da rk enough

.
,
A l um ( mo rdan t ) 4 0 gr .
'

due to p oo r l eaves it m us t b e boil ed for h al f a n h ou r i n

, , Oliu m ( bl ue dy e ) 5 gr .

n ew bi rc h l eaf dy e a fter h av ing been d ried I t m us t b e B i rc h l eaves 1 kg

'

-
. .

thorou gh ly wet i n wa rm water before bein g pl aced i n th e B oi l i n b irc h l eaf l iq ui d

-
to 1 hr . ac cording as a m ore
n ew dy e Th e good s i s al lo we d to l ie i n th e dy e u n til col d
. o r l ess bl u e green c ol or i s desi red
-
.

u n l ess th e col or i s b ec om i n g too st ron g I n th a t c ase i t ,

D ar k B l ue No 2
.

39 . Gr een .

i s taken up a t on c e a n d c ool ed Th e col or i s intensified by . .

Ya r n O O O O O O O

h a vin g th e ma teria l l i e i n th e wa rm dy e u n ti l i t i s col d

O O O O O O O O O O
'

Al u mmorda n t )
.

I f there a re to be severa l dyes i n green , th es e can wel l Ol iu m ( bl u e dy e ) o o o o o o

be boi l ed i n th e sam e bi rc h l eaf dy e I t i s n ec essa ry to ca]

-
. B i rc h l eaves 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

c ul a t e i n a dvan c e the p roper a mou n t of l eav es an d t o m ak e B oil i n b i rc h l eaf l iqu i d 1 h r

-
.

u p sepa ra tely th e bl u e dyes

M edi um B lu e Gr een
.

40 .

I f th e bi rch l ea f dye i s t o be u sed for af ter dyeing it

- -
,
.

Ya rn O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

m u s t be c ool ed b efore ne w y arn c a n be pl a c ed i n it .

A l u m ( m ord a n t ) 0 0 0 0 0 0

Th e d u l l b l ue green dy es m ay al so b e boi l ed i n th e Oliu m ( bl u e dye ) 0 0 0 0 0 0

sam e bi r ch l eaf dy e tha t th e l igh t f resh gr een col ors were

-
B i r ch l eaves 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

boi l ed .
B oi l in bi reh l ea f dye 1 h r
-
.
24 6 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA VIN G

B oi l i n b irc h l ea f 1 h r a n d then take o u t 0 0 0 1 th e

-
. . 51 . Gr a y Gr een with B a yber r y
l iq u i d a n d a dd th e 2 5 g r soa ked m a dder P l ac e th e y a rn
. .
Ya rn 2 50 gr .

i n th e c oo l ed l iq u i d a n d l et i t boi l 14 h r , t ak e i t o u t, add
.
A l u m ( m ordan t ) 4 0 gr .

th e i ro n sul ph a te, cool , p u t i n th e y a r n , a nd boi l hr .

D ried bayberry l eaves 500 gr .

H a nd le a s a bove
I ron s ulph a te 1 0 to 2 0 gr
.

0 0 0 0 0 0 .

S o a k th e bay berry l eaves a n d boi l 2 h rs Th e mor

48 P a l e B lu e Gr ee n .

da n ted y a rn i s boiled i n th e st rai ned l iq ui d for 1 h r a n d .

i s th en take n ou t A dd th e i ron sul ph a te a n d wh e n th i s i s

Al u m ( mo rda n t )
.

3 0 gr
di ssolved a dd a l i ttle col d water P la ce the yel l ow dy ed
.

T he m or da n te d y a r n i s p l ac ed i n th e co ol ed a fter dye
.

-
,
y a rn i n th e cool ed liq u id , h ea t sl o wly s ti rri ng cons ta ntly
of No 50 , an d slo wly h ea ted to th e boil i ng poi n t B oi l ,
‘

.
.

a n d l et i t boi l 5 t o 1 0 m i n u tes Tak e i t ou t a nd c ool . .

to 1 h r .

Pa l e Y el low Gr een M yr tle

Ya rn 2 5 0 gr .
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Al u m ( m orda n t ) 3 0 gr
Mor dan t
. .

B oi l i n th e sa m e m a n ner a s sugges ted i n

43 .
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

50 . Olive Gr ee n with H ea th er Th e po ta ss iu m ch rom ate a nd th e c re a m of ta rta r a re

Ya r n 2 50 g r .
d issol ved i n b oi l ing water a n d enough col d wa ter a dded
,

A l um ( m o rda n t ) 4 0 gr .
to m a ke th e li q u id l uke wa rm P l ac e th e wet ya rn i n th i s .

F res h h eath er tops . . 1 to 2 kg .

a n d h ea t slo wly , sti r , bo i l one h o u r a n d l et i t l i e i n thi s
Chop t h e h eath er and soak a n d then bo i l 4 h rs i n a . m ordan t u n til col d R i nse i n cl ea r water be fore pl aci ng
.

pol ish ed i ron kettl e Wh en th e l iq ui d is p u t b a ck , th e

’

. i n th e dy e Th e m ulb er ry an d l ogwoo d are p u t t o soak th e

.

y a rn i s boil e d sl o wly 1 to 2 h rs ac cordi ng to th e d a rk nes s

. ( l ay p reviou s They a re p u t i n a bag a nd boi l ed i n c lea r
.

of col o r desi r ed Let i t l ie i n th e dy e ti l l c ool , bu t i t m u st

. wa ter 2 h rs Tak e o ut the bag a n d boi l th e wet m ord a n ted
.

be sti rred oc c asional ly I f th e l iq u i d i s al lo wed to form a

'

. y a rn i n th is dy e 2 h rs I f there i s roo m i n th e kettl e tim e

. .

c rust th is wil l spo t th e ya rn

,
. ma y be saved by boi l ing th e ya rn wi th th e bag th e l a s t h ou r .
 VI O LET D Y ES 247
°
40 C, a nd th e soa ked m a dder i s added P u t th e y a r n i n
I f m o re l o gw oo d i s u s ed , th e c olo r wi l l be da rker
.

—
l ess l og
a gai n a n d sl o wly h ea t to boil i n g B oi l hr
wood m ak es i t l igh ter
. .

D i ssol ve th e i ro n sul ph a te a n d a dd i t t o th e c ool ed

53 . D ar k Gr ass Gr ee n . l iq u id , af ter ta k ing ou t th e y a rn S ti r wel l P u t y a r n bac k
. .
.

Ya r n 2 50 g r a nd boi l for to hr T a k e o u t i mm ed ia te ly a n d cool

'

. . .

Mulberry 8 0 gr . Wi th m o re m add er th e c ol or bec om es b ro wn er wi th

, ,

Al u m 4 0 gr . l ess , m o re gree n Mo re i ro n sul ph a te m akes i t d ul l er I f

. .

O l ium 1 0 gr . th e m adder i s om i tted , th e c ol or becomes a p u re green .

The m ul be r ry w ood i s pu t to soa k th e day before , These col ors a r e n o t d u rabl e I n tim e th ey becom e
.

bo il ed 1 h r a n d s tra in ed I n th e st rai n ed l i q u id , d issol ve b ro wn o r gray i sh

w
. .
.

th e a l u m a n d whe n th e l iq ui d i s m il k a rm a dd th e Ol iu m ,
.

I t is a l l wel l sti rr ed Th e we t m o rda n t ed y a r n i s p u t i n

. Vi o l et D yes
an d s ti rred c on sta ntly Hea t sl o wly a n d bo il 1 h r
. The .
V i ol et dyes com pou nded of bl u e a n d red As a
ar e .

ya rn i s l eft i n th e dy e u n til col d .

rul e i nd igo , coch in ea l a n d m adder a re u sed Th e col o r s .
,

54 . Oli ve Gr een m ad e by t h es e dy e s tufi s a re fa s t wh en th ey a re no t too

Ya rn l igh t i n col or .

Al u m ( m orda n t ) 4 0 gr .
Wi t h coch i nea l , th e c ol or becomes a p u re v iol et , wi th
Ol iu m ( bl u e dye ) 5 gr .
m ore o r less red acc ord ing to th e p rop ortio n of bl u e a nd
M ul berry 6 2 gr .
red dy e Wi th m adde r a n d c oc h inea l th e col or i s m ore
.
,

Tam er ic Ac id 4 0 gr .
b ro wn i sh o r p l u m c ol or Th e dep th of th e c ol o r i s m uc h
.

M adder 1 3 gr .
a ffec t ed by th e q u al i ty of th e woo l ac co rd ing a s i t is coa rse

I ro n s ul ph a te 3 gr .
o r fi ne Th e l a tter b ec omes th e d a rker
. .

Th e y a rn i s m orda n ted a nd dy ed bl u e j u s t a s i s d one Li gh t v iol et dy es b ecom e d u l l an d n o t sa ti sfac to r y i n

,

i n bi rch l ea f dyeing Th e m u l ber ry h avin g been soak ed

-
.
coa rse o r h a rd cl o th Th e fi ner dy e sh ad es req u i re soft
.

i s p u t i n a ba g a n d boi l ed i n c lea r wa ter l h r ‘

.
wo ol
Tak e ou t th e ba g a n d ad d th e ta mer ic B oi l before .
B y us in g d iff eren t ki nd s of m ord an t , vi ol et sh ades
p uttin g i n th e bl u e dy ed y a rn wh ic h m u s t n o t be cool ed
-
,
may be ob ta in ed f rom th e bl ue dy e i n l og wood .

too m uch Wh en i t h a s boil ed 1 h r i n th e y el l o wish l iq uid

‘

. .
,
Th ese c ol ors a re n ot a s p retty o r fa s t a s th e oth e rs
i t i s take nou t The dye i s co ol ed with c old wa ter to a bo u t
. i b o ve m en ti on ed .
a4 s FO O T -
P OWER L O OM W
EAVI N G

D ar k B lu e Vio l et
V i o l e t wi t h C o chin eal
Ya rn
v iol et, th e y a rn m u s t fi r s t b e dyed bl ue , then red
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

F or
A l u m ( m o rda n t )
.

Th e y a r n i s done i n th e sa me m a n ner a s for green

O l iu m ( bl ue dy e )
.

When th e y ar n h as been b oiled i n th e b l ue dye i t i s dried

0 0 0 0 0
'

,
Coc h i nea l
wi th ou t ri nsing .

H a ndl e a s N o 55
. .

Coch i nea l is po wdered fi ne a n d p u t to soa k the day

before doi ng th e red dyei ng I t i s t hen p u t i n c lea r wa ter
.
, Med i um B l ue T
’
w l et
boi led for ten m i n u tes a n d wel l sk im med Lay th e d ry . Ya r n
bl u e dy ed y a rn in th e boi l in g dy e , tu rn i t a roun d q u ic kly
-
A l u m ( morda n t )
so th a t i t gets wet, a nd bo il s ti rri ng cons ta ntly fo r the r e
, O liu m ( bl u e dye )
q ui red t ime ; th en tak e i t o u t a n d cool before wash i ng . Coch i nea l
I f t h e c ol o r does n o t seem to be red enough , th e ya rn H andl e a s abov e b u t boi l to 1 hr .

m ay be lef t i n th e dy e u nti l c ol d Thi s wi l l h elp wi th col o rs

.

B lu e V io let
wh ic h h a ve a ve r y da r k bl u e grou n d I n th a t case add a
.
,

28
Ya rn 9 7

l i ttl e m o re s oaked c och i n ea l a n d l et the y a rn boi l l onger

A l u m ( m ord a n t )
.

or

I f th e c ol or i s redder th a n desired boi l th e y a rn a

,
Oliu m ( bl u e dye ) 50 21120 ”
sho rter tim e i n th e red dy e , b u t no t l ess th a n h a l f a n h ou r .
C oc h i ne a l
I f th e fo u n da tio n bl u e c olo r i s too l igh t thi s c a nno t
,
'

H an dl e a s above .

be rem edied aft er th e y arn h a s been i n th e c o ch i nea l dy e .

Am ong th e fol l o wi ng recipes a re m any possib il i ti es by Lig h t B lu e Vio l et

th e rel a ti on bet ween O liu m a nd c och i neal Ya r n 2 5 0 gr .

V .

O a ry i ng ( A l u m ( mo rdan t ) 3 2 gr .

D ar k B la ck Vio let Wh en th e y a rn ha s been m ordan ted boi l for ,

Ya r n 2 50 gr .
af ter c ol or of N o 56 . .

Al u m ( morda nt ) 50 g r
D ar k R ed
.

60 . Vio let
Ol iu m ( bl ue dy e ) 1 0 gr .

Ya rn
Coc h i nea l 50 gr
A l u m ( mo rda n t )
.

M o rd a n t the y arn as u sua l a n d dy e bl ue . Wh en Ol iu m ( bl u e dye )

1 h r i n c oc h i neal dy e
.
C oc h in eal
2 50 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEAVI N G
dyed a cc ordi ng a s th e l iq uid is d a rk or ligh t , m ore o r l ess m u s t b e wel l di ssol ved an d th e dy e m u s t b e c ool e d before
.
w
red or bl ue A l i ttl e of th e bl u e dy e wil l a l ay s be l ef t in th e goods i s p u t ba ck i n th e l iq uid .

th e red dye I n al l dy e to wh ic h i ron o r copper vi triol i s ad ded the

'

.
,

Th e ya r n for th ese a fter dyes i s m orda n t ed a s u su al go ods m ust no t l ie stil l a f te r i t i s th rough b oi l i n g I t i s

’

-
.

a n d i s boil ed i n the c ool ed red l iq u i d I t m ay a l so be dy ed

. bes t to take i t ou t i m medi at ely , cool q u ickl y an d ri ns e i n
l i gh t bl ue s o th a t th e red becom es th e ch i ef c ol o r . c l ea n wa ter u n ti l i t i s washed .

A da rk sc u m wi l l a l way s form on th e dy e wh en it cool s .

B lu e Vio let with Gr o u nd P in e a n d t hi s wi ll sp ot th e good s Th e sam e eff ec t wil l b e h a d

.

Ya r n al so if th e dye stufli i s a l l o wed to ru n d o wn a p art of th e

-

G ro u n d pi n e
.
g oo ds a fter bei n g h u n g u p .

Log woo d
M orda n t a n d dy e a s N o 3 6
. .
69 . Y ello w B r o wn with B ayber r y Lea ves
Ya r n 2 50 g r
B iu e Vio l et with Ch ickweed
.

A l u m ( mo rdan t ) 4 0 gr .

Ya rn
B ayb erry l eav es ( dried ) 7 50 g r . .

C h ic k weed
Th e ya r n i s mo rda n ted a n d dyed a s fo r yel lo w see N o
Logwoo d
.

4 ) a nd i s ta ken ou t a n d 1 5 to 3 0 gr c opper sul ph a te i s

Al u m ( m ord a n t )
.

a dded B oil th e ya rn 14 to 1 h r
. .

M orda n t a n d dy e a s N o 3 7
' “

I f a very da rk col or is desi red , l et it boil aga in i n th e

. .
“

sam e or a new dy e Th e y a rn m u s t b e d ri ed be t ween eac h

.

B r own D yes dy ei ng j u s t a s i n th e h ea th er dy ein g Th is i s a very fas t

.

B ro wn i s obta in ed by m ix ing y el lo w, red an d bl ack c olor .

dyestu ff s .

S ever a l b ro wn dy estu ff s a re fou nd comp lete i n certa in 70 . Y ell o w B r o wn with A ld er B ar k

ba rk s a n d roots a nd in a n umber of l ich ens F rom h erbs . Y a rn 2 50 gr .

a n d l eaves , b ro wn i s sel dom ob tai ned .

To b r in g o u t the b ro wn col ors a copper o r i ro n sal t

,
Al der ba rk ( d r y ) 5 kg .

m u s t oft en be add ed to th e yel lo w o r red dy es tu ff When . Th e y a r n i s m orda nted an d dy e d l ik e th e y el lo w with

th ese sal ts , s u ch as i ro n o r c opp er v i triol , a re ad ded , th ey a l d er ba rk ( see N o B u t i t is bo i l ed i n th e l i q u id 1 to
.
 BR O W N D YE S 2 51

2 h rs a n d l ef t u n til col d
. . I t wa n ted sti l l d a rker i t m ay Th e m ord a n ts a re d issolved i n boi li ng wa ter a nd
be d ri ed a n d b oil ed a ga i n in n ew a lder ba rk dy e Th i s . s ti rred P u t i n th e ya rn a n d boi l one h ou r a n d l eave u n til
.

c ol or da rkens i n tim e . col d

Th e d ry , ri pe berri es a re b roken , p u t to soa k a n d bo il ed
71 . B r o nz e B r o wn wi t h B u cktho r n B u r l;
o ne h ou r i n c lea r wa ter P u t i n th e m o rda n ted ya rn a nd
.

l et i t boi l wi th th e be rri es 1 to 2 h rs a n d th e n ta ke ou t . .

Dry ba rk . 5 00 gr .
S tra i n th e l iq u i d a n d a dd the copper a ceta te B oi l th e .

A l um 3 5 gr .
ya rn agai n 14 to hr .

C hop th e ba rk fi ne , soa k a nd boi l 3 hr s To th e strai ned

Lig h t R ed B r o wn with Gr ay S to ne Lich cns
.

74 -

l i q u id , ad d th e a l u m a n d wh en i t i s dissol ved , th e d ry u n
.

Ya rn 2 5 0 gr
in or d a n ted y a rn i s l a i d i n th e boil ing dy e B oi l i n th i s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

Dry l ich ens 1 kg

1 to 2 h r s , a n d let i t rem a in u n ti l col d .

C rush fi ne th e lic h en s a n d soak ove r n igh t , a n d then

72 . B r o nz e B r o wn wit h Wa l n ut Leav es boi l i n a c opp er ke ttle i n a rea son abl e a m ou n t of wa ter .

Ya r n 2 50 gr .
B oi l th e u n mo rda n ted y a rn i n th i s to 2 h rs As thi s .

A l um ( morda n t ) 4 0 gr .
d y e bec omes very th ick , th e ya rn m u s t be s ti rr ed c on s ta n tly .

F res h wal n u t l eaves . 1 kg .

Th e h a nks m u st be h u n g fa r apa r t a nd be wel l shak en .

Th i s c ol o r bec omes cl ou ded ea sily u nl ess thi s i s don e .

Bo i l l eaves 1 h r a nd stra i n
.

A fa st b ro wn c ol o r i s th e res ul t
.

Th e m ordan ted v a rn boi l s i n th e dye 1 to

is l eft til l c ol d. 75 . D ar k R eddis h B r o wn with S to ne Dickens
Y ar n 0 0 0 0 2 5 0 gr
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

B r o wn with Ju nipe r B er r ies

.
Li ch en s 0 1 to 1 % kg
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

Ya rn C ru sh fi ne th e ston e l ic he n s a n d stre w wel l bet ween

Al u m th e y a rn wh ich i s l ai d i n l ay ers with th e l i ch en s i n a n iron
C rea m of ta rta r kettl e Th e ya rn m u s t be wel l c overed a nd som e la rge
Mo rda n t
.

p ieces of l ich en s pl ac ed bet wee n ea c h l ayer of ya r n Th e

'

Copper sul ph a te .

Amm on i a c hl o rid e . y a rn m u s t b e wet wh en l a id d o wn P ou r o n col d wa ter .

Ju n iper berries 1 Let i t soa k a few h ou rs befo re boi l ing B oi l sl o wly a n d .

Copp er ac eta te . evenl y 2 t o 6 h r s .

2 52 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA VIN G

I f th e y a r n i s t o b e very dar k i t m u s t b e t rea ted aga in

,
H a n dl e after ward s l ik e th e o th er l ich en colors If .

with new l ic h en s a nd i n t h e sam e m a nner I f on e ha s

. o n e h as n o t en ou gh l ic hen s , th e col or m ay be da rk ened by
som e u sed m a dder dy e th i s m ay be u sed i nstead of wa ter
, . a ddi ng i ron s ulph a te to th e dy e B u t th e ya rn m us t fi r St .

Wool may be dy ed i n th e Sam e m a nn er Thi s i s m ore . be t aken ou t Thi s brown col or wi l l be a l i ttl e m ore gray
.
-

ea sily dyed bu t th e y a rn i s ap t t o b e c l ou ded u n less on e i s i sh if l ich en s on l y are u sed Al l th ese dy es a re absol u tely .

v er y c a refu l I t mu s t h ave p lenty of room

. . f as t .

76 . D ar k Gr eenis h B r o wn with Tr ee Lich ens or M0 8 3 79 . S an d a l B r o wn ( Gr ay B r o wn )

Y a rn 2 50 gr .
Ya rn 0 0 0 2 50 g r
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

Li ch en s 1 to kg .
S a n tal ic a c id 5 0 gr 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

Thi s c olor i s h an dled as above .

M a dder 50 gr
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O .

M ulberry 50 g r
77 . Lig h t B r own with I ce la n d Mo ss .

Oa k gal l 1 5 gr
Ya rn 2 5 0 gr
.

. .

I ro n s ulpha te 1 0 to 1 5 gr
M oss 2 5 0 gr
.

C lean , ri nse a n d c h op th e m oss fi n e Th i s i s pl aced

.
M a dder sa ntal ic a c i d , m ulberry a n d oa k gal l a re
,

bet ween the l ay ers of ya rn i n a kettl e Th e y a rn m u st b e

.
pou nded fi n e, p u t i n a b ag a n d boil ed 334 h r Th e y a rn i s .

wel l covered wi th m oss .P ou r ou wa ter a n d bo i l 1 to 2

“

.
p u t dry i n to th e l iq u i d a n d bo il ed wi th th e bag hr an d .

h r s , o r lon ger Th e y a rn m ay al so b e h u n g o n sticks a n d

.
t hen both a re taken ou t Ad d th e i ron sul ph ate a nd cool .
,

b oil ed wi th th e moss l ike th e ligh t y el l o w bro wn with ston e a nd t hen boi l the y a rn 5 to 1 0 m in u tes .

l i ch ens .
I f wa nted da rker u se m ore i ron s ulph at e
,
.

78 . D ar k B r o wn with I cela n d M 0 8 8 80 . D a r k R ed B r o wn
-
with M a dder
Ya rn 2 5 0 gr .

M oss 5 0 0 to 7 5 0 gr A l um 4 5 gr
Mor dan t
O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O O O .
.

Cooki n g sal t 50 g r .
C rea m of ta rta r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 6 gr .

The m o ss i s h an dled as abov e a nd l ai d i n l ayers wi th Madder 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 5 gr .

O ak ga l l 1 2 gr
th e y ar n i n a n i ro n kettl e .
O O O O O O O O O O O O O .

I ron sul ph a te 1 0 gr
Stre w th e sal t bet ween , a n d p ou r o n wa ter a n d keep
.

wa rm a n d bo i l fo r 4 8 h rs I t m ay s ta n d i n a n oven or o n
.
. M o rd a nt th e y a r n as u su al 1 h r P u t th e soaked m a d .

a h ea tin g stove der i n cl ea r wa ter Wh en th e l i q u id i s m il k warm , a dd th e

.
2 54 FO O T -
PO WER L O OM WEA V IN G

85 . Gr een Gr ay with La dy’s Man tl e boil ed t o 1 h r .I ron su lp h a te as u su al i s add ed ( see No .

Y arn 2 50 gr . 5 4 ) an d th e y arn is agai n wel l b oil ed .

Al u m 260 gr I / ig h t Gr a/y
.

C rea m of ta rta r 16 gr .
Morda n t Ya rn 2 50 g r .
’
F resh l ady s m a n tle 1/2 to 1 . kg .

O ak
gal l O O O O O O O O O O O O O 3 gr .

I ro n sul ph ate 5 to 3 0 gr M u l ber r y wood

.

gr .

Th e y a rn is m ordan t ed a s u sual .

Madder
’
B oi l th e l a dy s m a ntl e 1 h r an d strai n Bo il th e . .

I ron sul ph a te 3 gr 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

m ord anted y a rn i n th i s l iqu i d 1 h r R emove th i s Ad d . .

The oa k ga ll mu lberry wood , a n d m adder i s boil ed

,
th e i ro n su l ph a te B oi l th e y a rn i n th e l iq u id u nti l th e
.
Th e d ry u mnor da n ted y a rn i s p u t i n th e boil ing dy e
,
col o r i s da rk enou gh .

a n d b oi l ed hr Th e y ar n i s tak en o u t a n d th e i ro n
.

s ulph a t e add ed Th e ya rn is agai n p u t bac k an d boil ed

. .

86 . Gr ee n Gr a y with S o r r e l hr .

Ya rn 2 50 g r . .
By tak ing m ore o r l ess of th e d ifi eren t dyestu ffs th e ,

Wh en i n th e sorrel dy e y arn h a s been dyed bl a ck ( see

, col o r wil l h ave a y el l o wi sh reddi sh o r v iol et tone M ore ,
.

N o 8 9 ) from th e af ter dy e on e ca n get a gray gree n after

.
-
iro n s ulph a te d a rken s it .

c ol or Th e wet u nmo rd a nted ya r ni s b oil ed

. t o 1 h r or .
‘

Bl ack D y es
l onger i n th i s l iq u i d Th e l iq ui d m ay easily sta nd 1 to
.
2

d ay s i n a n i ro n k ettl e .
B l ack dyes c a n li k e th e gray b e ma de wi th th e a id of
, ,

i ron sal ts f rom th e pl an ts con tai n ing ta n nic ac i d B ut they .

can al so be obta i n ed f rom the bl u e dye st u ff i n l ogwood

-

87 Gr ay with S u m a c
.
i
.

Y a rn 2 50 g r .
Th i s l atter is n ow m os t general ly u sed Al th ou gh the dye .

M u lb erry wood 1 0 gr . .
stu ff i n l og woo d i s bl ue , bl ack m ay b e obtai ned f rom i t by
S um ac 2 5 gr .
u si ng d ifferen t sorts of m ordants I n order th a t th e bl ack .

Oak g a l l 1 0 gr .
s h a l l n ot be too bl ui sh a l i ttl e yel lo w dy e s h oul d be added
,

I ron sulph a te 1 0 gr .
to th e l og woo d .

Th e m u lberry wood , wh i ch h a s been so a ked i s bo iled F or bl ack dyes a n i ron kettl e i s best
,
Un tin ned c op .

h r , a nd th en th e su mac a nd o a k gal l a re a d ded an d

.
per m ay be u sed b u t n o t tin ned copper ke ttles
,
.

Log wo od i s al ways p u t i n a bag to be boi led and to

_

b oil ed Th e y a rn i s pl ac ed dry i n th e bo il ing dye a nd

. ' ,
,
 BLACK D Y ES —
AF TER D Y E S 2 55

save ti m e , th e good s m ay be boi led a t th e sa m e ti m e a s th e used aga in to dy e wool ens a n d c otto n goods good s th a t —

ba g B u t i t m u s t h ave p l en ty oi room i n th e kettl e

.
“

. do no t req ui re a d ec i ded c ol or These after dyes a re m ore

.
-

G oods dy ed bl ac k m us t be d ri ed im media tely a fter dy e o r l ess fast , b u t a re ve ry y r etty Th e m os t a re f a s t a s r e

.

i ng a n d th en wa shed wel l i n stron g soap wa ter an d r insed ga rds wa sh i ng a n d ca n be u sed for a r tic les th a t a re n o t
in c lea n wa ter u n ti l i t i s absol u tely c l ea r Wh en th e b l ac k .
m uc h ex posed to s unsh i ne .

dyes a re wel l boi l ed a nd p roperl y h a nd led they d o no t , Th e good s is mo rda n ted a nd i s h a nd led th e s am e a s
c ro ck , bu t a re absol u tely fa s t .
p revi ou sly desc r ibed I f on e i s dy eing rags a n d su c h c om
.

m on th i ngs , th e m ord a n t i f i t be al u m o r c rea m of ta rta r

89 . B l a ck with S o r icl ‘ , ,

m ay b e p u t i n th e a fter dy e d i rec t
-
.

Ya rn 2 50 gr !

F res h sorrel 1 to kg
.

Y ell o w Afte r Dyes

.
-

Log wood 1 7 5 gr .

D iff eren t y el lo w a fter dy es m ay be m ix ed togeth er a nd

-

B irc h ash es 2 50 g r
th e a l u m a dd ed a t onc e Wi th a f te r dy e of h ea ther cotton
.

-
.
,
Boi l th e so rrel 1 to 2 h rs i n a c l ea n sc rubbed i ron ket
.

a n d l inen m ay bo th be dy ed y el lo w Th i s i s a pretty col o r

.

tl e S tr a i n s co u r th e k ettle before p u t ting th e dye ba ck .

for th e wa rp i n sim pl e ru gs a nd ca rpets

.
,

I n th i s t he we t u n morda n te d ya rn i s bo iled 2 h rs and

.

I n th e a f ter dy e o f grou n d p in e , woo l a n d c otton m ay

-

l ies i n th e l iq u i d u nti l cold Th e y a rn sh oul d be a da rk

.

b e dy ed I f th ey be r e boi led i n u sed l og wood dye a good

'

- -

gra y green P u t to soa k th e l o g wood th e d ay before d v e ,

.

.
,
bl u e gray colo r i s ob ta i ned bo th i n woo l a nd c otton It
'

i n g a n d bo i l i n cl ea r wa te r 2 h rs and ta ke th e ba g ou t
.

. .
.

m ay b e u sed fo r wa rp a nd ca rpe t rags

Th e m o rd an ted y a rn wh ic h h a s bee n sq ueez ed ou t o f
.

th e so rrel dy e a nd ri nsed i n l uke wa rm wa ter i s pu t i n th e

R e d Af t er- D y es
l o g wood l iq u i d a n d boil ed 2 h rs Wh en th e l ogwo o d d ye
M a dder dy e may be u sed to th e l a s t d rop Wool , rags
.

i s nea rly c ol d i t i s m ixed wi th 1 to 2 l iter of ly e wh ic h i s

.

,
a n d co tton y a rn m ay b e dy ed i n it I t m us t boil a nd th e
m ad e by pou ri ng boil i ng wa ter on th e bi r ch a sh es , s ti rred
.

good s wil l bec om e a li gh t b ro wni sh red Co tton a n d l i n en .

a n d l et sta nd til l cold a n d cl ea r Let th e ya rn l i e in th i s

dy e ve ry li gh t a n d f a d e in th e su n , b u t th e c ol o r i s v ery
.

h e fo r 1 2 h r s a n d th en d r y Wa sh l a te r
pret ty a nd m ay be u sed for wa rp wh ere wh i te i s no t wa n te d
. . .

Liq uid s
Fu r t h e r U se of U se d D y e Th e a fte r dy e m ay a l so be u sed as th e fou nda tion colo r for
-

When y el lo w o r r ed dy es h av e bee n m ad e the af ter ,

da rker red a nd b ro wn sh a d es A l ittl e dy e s tu ff ma y be
.
-

l iq u id wil l a l wa ys c on ta i n enough dye so th a t th ey may be

,
sa ved fo r ~th is .
2 56 10 0 2
1 13
0 WEB LOOM WEAVI N G

Coch i nea l
_
dy e may be u sed u n ti l th ere i s o n l y the c lea r D ye in g of O l d Go o d s
wa ter l eft Th e l i gh t red al mos t c olo rl ess dy e ma kes p retty
.
I f one wi shes to dye o ld f a ded goods this m us t fi rs t
, ,

ligh t tin ts fo r ol d p u re wool , wh i te d resses a nd bl ou ses a nd , be wel l wa sh ed a n d th en boil ed 14 h r i n sod a wa ter ( wh i ch .

a l a rge am ou n t of wool en s weater ya rn m ay b e dy ed l i gh t m u st not b e s tron g enough to inj u re the goods ) s o t ha t a s

'

red i n su c h l iq u id .
m u ch of th e o ri gi na l dy e i s removed a s p oss ibl e Then .

I f sa l mo n colo r i s desi red a ti n sol u tion i s a dded a n d

, , ri n se i t wel l A fter th a t h an dle a s th e wh i te
.
.

th e c lea n dry goods is a l l o wed to boi l i n th e l iq u i d to 1/Q When ol d goods i s to be dy ed a da rker col or th a n th e ,
hr Th e a m ou n t of ti n sol u tion i s regul a ted by th e wei gh t
.

ori gi na l m u st be ch osen F or su c cess a grea t dea l depends

.

of th e good s F o r 2 50 gr goods u se 5 0 to 1 0 0 g r p repa red

on t h e fo u nda tion c ol o r , a s th e ne w m u s t be da rk en o ugh
. . .

cl ea r y el l ow ti n sol u tion .

to cover th e old
I f a m ore bl u i sh red i s wa nted ,m orda n t th e goods fi r s t
.

O nly pal e y el lo w o r pi n k may be d y ed yello w

i n a l u m a n d then b oi l witho u t th e tin .
.

Ma dd er a nd co ch i nea l dyes m ay be m ixed .

P a l e yell ow, pa l e violet , l igh t gray l igh t b ro wn ,
,
, v ery
p a l e green a n d red m ay be dy ed red .

Bl u e Aft e r -
D y es
P al e y el lo w, p ale green , vi ol et b l u e gray a nd l igh t ,
I ndi go gi ves n o after dyes a s th e good s a l way s d ra ws
-
, b ro wn m ay be dy ed bl ue With grou n d p i n e a n d ch ic k weed
.

a l l th e colo r into i ts el f I n l og woo d dye ho wever , l igh t

'

.
, dy es p retty bl u es may be obta i ned
, .

g ray bl ue after dye i s fo un d

-
.

Blue and r ed m ay be dyed violet .

V i o l e t Af t er D yes -
A ll o ther l igh t c olors m ay b e
dyed br o wn .

Th e sam e i s t ru e of th ese dyes a s fo r th e red a f ter , Al l c ol ors , l i gh t or da rk m ay be dyed bl ack .

.

dyes wh ere ma dder o r coch i nea l h as been u sed

,
.

I t m us t be u n derstood th a t wi t h r e dyeing th e new -

Gr e en Af t e r D yes
- co l o r u n l es s i t i s very l igh t
, ‘
wi l l a l way s h ave a ton e of
,

a fter dy es a re no t worth wh i le u sing They on ly th e ol d grou n d colo r

G reen
.
- .

give a di rty , u nd ec ide d c ol o r Un less one kno ws wh a t dy es were u sed origin al ly it ,

B rown gray a n d blac k a t te r dyes wi l l give l igh te r -

is bes t to dye a sa mp l e espec ially if the goo ds b e of va l ue ,

sh ad es Th e gray a fter dyes m ay b e q u i te da i n ty a n d

.
- a s th e resul t m ay p rove to b e a diff eren t c ol or th a n th e one
'

p ret ty .
pl a nn ed for Th e ol d c olor is dissolved so to s ay by th e
.
, ,

F rom bl a c k l o gwood after dyes gray bl u e i s ob ta i ned

-
,
. ne w an d form s an en ti rely n ew compoun d
,
.
 I ND EX

A bbr v iati e o ns : (w . w o rk i ng d ra w i n g ; ( p a t ) p attern ; d raft , .

A dap ta ti n f b rd e r in p att e rn w eav i ng 4 8 ;

o s, o o s, , D og Tra ck s p att e r n 9 2 ; 92 , E igh t h e ddl e p atterns d o ub l e weav ing -
, , 1 84 ;
o f d u bl w o n p att er n 1 8 6 ;
o e 1 87 ve Do o rs a nd W i n d o w s p att er n 8 3 ; 83 1 83 1 84
A n al y i f w n patt r ns 1 0 1
, , ,

s s o ov e e , D ou bl e B o w K no t patt e r n 9 1 ; 90
‘

Do u bl e C h ari o t W h eel s 8 4 ; Exp re ss ing D a ni s h p a ttern s 1 1 5

,

84
B a m i ng 1 9
e ,
Do u bl e S no w bal l adap tat i o ns 6 0 ; ( d in) 60 ; F a n cy Wo r k b ag 4 8 ;
,

49
,

B t y R to w l 1 1 0 ;
e s oss e ,
61 Fe der a l Knot p attern 7 6 ; ( d n ) 7 5 ;
, , ,

76
B i g D i a m n d patt e rn 55 ; ( d r 56 ;
o 57 D o u bl e S no w bal l p att e r n 60 ; 59 ; Fi g u re H a rness fox d o ub l e weav ing 1 9 4 ‘
, ,

B l a h i ng w l en g d 2 57
, .

Fine th reads use of 52

, , ,
e c oo oo s.
60
B l k i ng ut a patt r n from a d raf t 1 05
oc o e
D o ubl e w e av i ng 1 7 7 Fi v e an d six h ar nesé D a ni s h p attern 1 1 9
, ,

B l ock W rk patt r n 6 2 ;
, - - .
, ,
o nd 62 e a
D o ubl e w ea v i ng cou nt erpa nes Fl y sh u ttl e 2 2 4 ; ( w 2 32
2 06 2 09
B l o m i ng F l w e r p att r n 7 3 ;
,
, . , , , .

a nd
o o e ,
2 14 ; 2 00 2 0 1 2 0 2 2 0 3 2 0 4 2 0 6 F oot s t oo l t ex til e and wood 2 1 5 ; ( w
, , , , , , ,
, , . 2 16 ;
74 2 0 7 , 2 0 8 , 2 0 9, 2 1 0, 2 1 2, 213 ; 217
2 00.
B l d yes 2 4 1 ; att e r d y 2 5 6
ue ,
-
es .
2 02 , 2 05, 2 0 7 , 2 1 0 , 2 1 3 F r n
ou h ar es s D s pa a ni h ttern 115
B bbi n w i nd r 3 5
-

rin ci pl e s
,
o e
D o ubl e w e av i ng arra ng em en t fo r 1 8 3 F r
o u h e d d l e weav ng i o f, 1 01
B na p art s M ar ch p att r n 7 1 ;
,
p
-
,

D o ubl e w e a v i ng L ove r s C h ai n 1 9 8 ; F r W l
’ , ,
o e 7 2 ; ( il l e , . . ’
1 94, ou h ee s, 9 1 ; 91
, ,
72 1 95 ; 1 95 F ox T rail p a e , 8 3 ; tt rn 83
B o rd er adaptati on in p att rn w ea i ng 4 8
s, s e v
D o ubl e w e a v i ng L ov e r s '
K no t 198 ; 1 9 6,
B rd e r c m bi nati ns 5 2 ;
,

G oose Ey e D a ni s h p atte rn
, ,
o o 51 o
1 97 ; 1 97
-
118
B ord r in pattern w a i ng 4 6
,
,
e s e v
D o u bl e w at r ( il l ) Go v ern o r s G a rd e n p a tt ern 70 ; 69 ;
’
,
oven p te n, 178 ; an d
B radd k s D ef at p at te rn 8 7 ;
oc
’
87 e ,
179
.

69
,

C h ari t W h l ad aptati n 6 5 ;
o ee 65 66 o s, D raft D an i s h 1 1 5 G reen y es d , 2 43 ; a fterdy es, 2 56 p

G uess Me p attern
, ,

C h ari t W h el patt rn 6 4 ;
,

o e a nd 64 e D raft for d ou bl e w ov en patt e r n a nal ys i s , 1 86 ; , 93 ; ( d n ) , 9 3

C h k d pap r 4 8
,

ec e e 1 88 k

H and ba g s 9 9 1 00 ;
,

C l oth b ea m 3 2 D raft N o r w egia n 1 64 ; S w ed i s h 1 22 1 23, 1 2 4, 99, 100

H a n d m ea s u res 2 57
, , , , , ,
,

C l o th co n tr cti n of 8 s u o 1 25 ,

H a rn ss 3 1
,

C l on i al patt e rn 55
,

o s, D raft r e ad i ng a Sw ed i sh 1 2 1 e

H eddl e f ram e 2 4 ; ( w
, , ,

C l r i n tr od u i n g f 4 0
o o c o D ye i n g f o r mu la e for 2 3 4 . 25
H edd l e b oo k 2 7 ; ( W
, , ,
, ,

C ou n t r bane 6 5 7 9 8 1
e D yei ng old g ood s 2 56 . 28
H ed dl e h orses 3 1 ; ( w
, ,
, , ,

C nt rp a n patt e rns 2 03 2 0 6 2 09 2 1 4 ;
ou e e D y e l i q u i d s u s e o f 2 55 '

, . 31
H eddl e sti ck s 2 5
, . ,
, , , ,

2 00 , 2 0 1 . 2 02 , 2 0 3 , 2 04 , 2 0 6 , 2 0 7 , 2 0 8 , 2 0 9 , D y es a nd D yei ng 2 3 3
H eddl es knott ing o f 2 4
, ,

D y es y ell o w 2 3 4 ; r ed 2 35 ; bl ue green
'

2 1 2, 2 1 3 ; 2 0 0 . 2 0 2 , 2 05 , 2 0 7 ,
H ed dl es t h re a d ing o f 2 6
, , , , , , ,

2 1 0. 2 1 3 2 4 3 ; v i o l e t 2 4 7 ; v i o l e t w ith co ch i ne al
H edd l es wire 2 4
, .
, , ,

Cr os sp att re n, 8 9 ; 89 2 4 8 ; b r o w n 2 50 ; g r a y 2 53 ; bl a ck 2 54
Ho ney Co mb wea v e 1 2 4
, , , , ,

Cr i g w arp i g
osses , s ec ur n of, in n , 11
E ight h ar ness D am as k w ea e 1 6 9 ;
,

C r ai
u t ns , 4 8 ; 4 9 , 5 0 , 53 , 6 6 , 8 0
-
1 67 v H o ney S uck l e 99 ; 99
E ig h t h arn ess D a m a s k d iag o nal w ea v 1 7 0
, ,

C rtai w a D a i h
u n e ve , n s ,-119
-
e,
E igh t h ar ness D am a s k w av e S w e d i s h d raft
-
e ,. 1 nd ia na a m e R o se , 8 6 ;
Fr 86
ri h ha in
.
,

D a m a s k d o u b l e w e ave 1 6 4
-
1 66 I s C p a e r n. 7 7 ; tt 78 ; 78
rreg a r e i s h p atterns
,

D a n i s h and N or w egi an w ea v i ng 1 1 5 E igh t h ar nes s l oom 1 3 0 1 3 7 ; ( s k et ch ) 1 3 2

-
I ul th r ead i ng in S w d 1 23
E i gh t har ness S w ed i sh patt e r n 1 2 9 1 3 7
, , , , ,

D a n i sh d raft fo r eigh t h ed dl e d o ubl e w e av e -

, 1 86 -
, , I rr eg ul a r t r e a d l ing . 59
2 60 IN D EX —
C ontinu e d

K ing
'
sFl owe a e n, 8 8 ; r p tt r 88 P a tter n h arne ss for d o u b l e wea v i ng 1 9 0
, Vi rgi n i a n S n owb al l , 92 ; 92
Wh eel
,

K n itti g n B ag , 4 8 ; 49 P a ttern r ep eat in wea v i ng 1 0 2 , of F ortu n e , 76; 77 ;

Kn o tti g n th e h e d d l es, 2 4 P a ttern wea v i ng el ements 4 1 77
Wh i g R ose 9 4 ;
,

Pa tte rn weav i ng in tex til es 4 8 96 ; 95

La m b s t ie—u p for
, a t e n wea in , 5 3 ; ( w p t r v g .
P a tterns C ol oni al 55
,
,

Wh ite H o u se 8 5 ;
,

85
P atterns C ol oni al 9 7 ;
, ,
52 98 ; 98 Wi nd F l ower 8 1 ; 94 ; 95
La i g
, , ,

y n ti k
in s c s , 2 3
P attern s C ol oni al B i g Di am on d 55 ; 56 ; Wi nd o w S ash 8 6 ; 86
L eas e, 9
,

( i ll ) 57
, ,

P i ll o w T op s 6 3 6 4 6 5 6 8
,

70, 7 1
L r
e as e od s , 2 4
.

B l ock Work 6 2 ; a nd Pine K n ot p attern 7 4

, , , , ,

75; 75
L p r
'

in p tt r
eo a d S k a e n, 8 2 ; 82
B l oom i n g Fl owe r 7 3 ;
62 ,

Pl a ci n g 3 R eed 2 8
,

L il V l y a nd 74
Pl ai d s Wea v i n g of 4 0
, ,

B ona p art e s M arch 7 1 ;

,
y o f th e al e , 9 7 ; 98 ; 98 '
72 ;
Li
.

, ,

r ft
nen d a , 1 08
72
,

P l atf o r m p attern 9 3 ; 93
Li t l
n en owe s , 1 0 8 ; 1 0 9 , 1 1 0 , 1 1 1 , 1 1 2 , 1 1 3 , 1 1 4
B rad d ock s D ef eat ’
87 ; Prep ari n g a l o ng warp 9
,

Li
,

v
nen wea es, 1 0 8
C h ario t Wh e l 6 4 ;
,

a nd 64
L D i
o om , an sh , 224 ; ( W
“

2 2 5, 2 2 6 , 2 2 7 ; .

C ros s 8 9 ; 89
e ,

Q u ee n s D eli g h t ’
, 88 ; 88
k t
s e ch , 2 2 4
,

D og T ac s , 9 2 ; r k 92
L oom , pa rt
s for p a e n m a n , 53 ; ( W 52 tt r ki g D oor
s an d Wi nd ows , 8 3 ; 83 R a ddl e 1 9 ; ( W
'

21
L
.

R a g R u g s 40
.
,

oo m , p t
a r s o f, 9 ; 20
D o ub l e B o w K tno , 9 1 ; 90
L R ea din g a dra f t 5 5
,

o om , p q we r , 7 ; s m l e h a n d , 9 i p D o ub l e C h ari t W h ee l , 8 4 ; 84
L o ,

S
oom , i wed sh , 2 2 4 ; ( w 2 2 9 , 2 30 , 2 3 1 ; .

Do u b l e nowb a , 6 0 ;
S ll 59 ; 60 R e d d y es 2 35 ; a f ter d y es 2 5 5 -

R eed th e 2 8 ; th rea di ng o f 2 8
, ,

k t s e ch , 2 2 8
F ed e al r K tno , 7 6 ; 76
44
L
,

R eel 1 6 ; war p in g 1 4 ; ( w
, , ,

t r i g
oom , t i g
h ea d n o f, 2 7 ; y n of, 3 0
F rW l
h ee s , 9 1 ; 91 13
L ou
R eel s 3 7 ;
.
, ,

g tr t
o om s , d e si n an d con s u c ion , 2 2 4
r il
F ox T a , 8 3 ; 83 37 3 9 ; ( w 38
L v r R em ov i n g warp fr om r eel 1 6
.
, ,

p tt rn
o e s Ch a in
’
a e , 198 ; 1 94, 1 95 ; G v r r G r
o e no s
’
a d en , 7 0 ; an d
R ing s a n d C h a i ns p attern 7 9 ;
,

1 95 78 ;
69
L v r
,

o e s
’
no a e K, 1 98 ; t p tt rn 1 9 6, 1 97 ;
G u ess Me 9 3 ; 93 78
1 97
H oney S uckl e 9 9 ;
,

99 R ing s a nd C h ai n s a da p tations 79 ; 79 80
Ros e P ath b d er 5 0 53 ;
, ,

I nd i ana Fram e R ose

,
50
M ak i n g d ft f m a w v n p tt rn
a ra ro o e a e 1 01
I ri s h C h a i n 7 7 ;
, 86 ; 86
R ose P ath S wed i sh p attern
or , ,

125
M a r th a W a s h ingt n t w l 1 0 8 ;
_ ,

1 08 78 ; 78 ,

K ing s Fl ower 8 8 ;
o o e
vi g
,
, ’
88 R u g wea n 173
M s n d o p tt rn 1 1 4 ;
’ ’ ° ,
114
.

a s a e
L eo p ard s S k i n 8 2 ;
,

R u g , woo , 1 7 2 , 1 7 3 ; l 173
M lli Pit h r t wel 1 1 0 ;
, ’

111 ; o 11] 82
Old I ri sh Q u i l t 8 9 ;
o e c e ,

M nk B lt p tt rn 4 1 ;
,
89
S carl e t B all s p att ern
’
o s e 43 a e ,
84 84 ;
M rd nt 2 34
,
Ol d Quil t 8 0 ; 81 ; 82 ,
o a
O ra ng e Peel 6 7 ;
,
S creens tex ti l e an d wo od , 2 1 7 , 2 1 9 ; (w
M i p tt rn 2 0 1 ;
,

an d 67
.
,
1 98 1 99 ; 1 99
'

os a c
P ar s on s B ea u t y 8 7 ;
a e ,
, ,
2 2 0, 222 ; 221, 223
87
’

N o r weg ia n p atterns 1 1 9 1 6 6 Pi n e Con e B l oom 9 6 ; 98 ;

,

98 S ea S l p tt r he l a e n 174 ; 1 74 ;
,
1 75
‘
, ,

Pi n e K not 7 4 ; and 75
,
S ea S ta r p tt rn a e 85 ; 85
Ol d I ri s h Q u i l t p a ttern 8 9 ;
,
,
89 S el ecti ng th e h eddl e comb inat ions p attern
Ol d Q u il t p a tt ern 80 ; 81 ; 82
,
P l at f orm 9 3 ; 93 ,
in
,
Q u een s D eli g h t 8 8 ;
’
88 wea v in g 1 0 1
Ol iu m p rep arati o n o f 2 4 0
,

R ing s a nd C h a i n s 7 9 ;
,
,

Ora n g e P eel p att er n 6 7 ;

,
78 ; 78 S ewi n g B ask et tex t il e a nd wood 217 ;
S carl et B al l s 8 4 ;
,
a nd 67 , ,
,
84 , 219
P add l e constru cti o n o f war p i ng 1 7 ; ( w 17 S ea St ar 8 5 ; 85 -
Sh ed 33
S n ail s Trail an d C at s Pa w 7 2 ;
,

w
, , . ,

Paddl e u se o f 1 7
’ ’
, S hu ttl
e, 3 4 ; ( 35 .

P arson s B eau t y 8 7 ;
, ,
’
87 73 ; 73 S hu ttl
e s c , 34 ; ( w ti k . 34
P a ttern alternate a n al y s i s o f 1 0 5 ; afi arys is ot
,

,
‘

, S un , Moo n a nd Stars , 96 ; 97 ; r
S ix —h a n ess l oom , 1 3 3 ; part s o i, (w . 1 30
d o ub l e we av in g 2 0 8 2 1 1 ; a n al y s i s o f 1 0 4 , , . 97 Si x h a ness
-
r
wed sh a S i p ttern , 1 33
 1 4 D AY U SE
RETURN TO D ESK FRO M WHI CH BO RRO WED
ENVI RO NMENTAL DESI G N
I I BRAKY
.

This bo o k is d
ue o n th last d te Stamped bel ow or
e a ,

o n th d te t
e a wh i h r en wed
o c e
Renewed bo k a
.

o s u b ject t o im m di te eca ll
re s e a r .

DEC 2 196 9