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E U R O P E A N

HERITAGE TIMES ED IT IO N 2022

every household. The Kauppila Farm Behind the surface


Museum is composed of the main house of archaeological excavations
and a few annexes spread over approxi- When visiting a heritage site, muse-
mately two hectares of land. The main um, or exhibition, one usually does
house is four-winged, so it also has an not reflect that what one sees is the
interior courtyard. Two wings were de- result of countless specialists working
signed for storage – milk shed, granary in various fields. They are at work a
and meat storage –, and the other two long time before a site can be presen-
to accommodate the farmers. A hallway ted to the public – at the site itself,
separated this living space into two. On but also at other sites, in archives and
the right hand side lay the heart of the laboratories. Excavations provide es-
house – the large family room – tupa sential knowledge about heritage sites
that must have housed every meal to- as well as about our history in gene-
gether, a large oven, sleeping spaces, ral. But what does the daily life of an
long tables and benches to accommo- archaeologist look like?
date every member of the household. Read more on page 3
A small bedroom with finer furniture
and embroidered textiles was accessible Exploring heritage
from this large living room. In the attic during the pandemic
above there is additional lodging space, With the onset of the Covid-19 pan-
perhaps intended for the farm’s staff. To demic in 2020, museums, galleries,
complete this picturesque setting, each and heritage sites across the world had
floorboard, ceiling beam, wooden uten- to close their doors for the safety of all.
sil, and clay bowl tells a very intimate Yet art and culture were still available
and warm story. Up to twenty souls online, and sometimes presented in

Today’s mood: Volunteering for heritage could have lived here at once.
Since the predominant material here
is wood, we moved to working on the
surprising ways. Accessing heritage
digitally led to earnest reflections
about our relationship with material

I travelled to Finland for the first time


in the summer of 2019. I flew over this
very intricate puzzle of deep blue sea and
The Kauppila Farm Museum was our
work site for two weeks. Supervised by
three work instructors, we were divided
bread. But most of all, right at the end
of the programme, I realised that the
Finnish community enjoys sticking and
shingle-roof of a shed in the open-air
museum. A few steps were necessary
to carry out this task successfully. We
heritage in the modern age. Can we
still feel close to heritage when sepa-
rated from it by a computer screen?
lush green islands to reach the region of into two groups to complete a shingle- working together for a greater good. removed the old shingles and any nails Read more on page 5
Proper Finland and be part of a very ex- roof replacement, revive sections of tra- This is how I found out what talkoo is. stuck on the underlaying beams. We
citing volunteering project. “Traditional ditional spruce-wood fences and restore In the following paragraphs I would used shovels and hammers. Then we
wooden techniques at a farm museum” the dark red colour on the façade of the like to gradually let you into the talkoo learnt how to overlap fir shingles to
was organised by the Regional Museum Kauppila Farm Museum. mood, by describing the rich heritage avoid water penetration and maximise
of Finland Proper – the name Finland Besides this work, I got acquainted context and its transgenerational the life expectancy of this replacement
was in medieval times applied only to with some aspects of Finnish culture. worth: the host museum and the tech- up to another twenty years. Every other
the south-west part of Finland – and I managed to understand the Finns’ niques we, the volunteers, learned. shingle is nailed in at a precise point.
the City of Laitila, in partnership with high esteem for forests and tranquil- So, the working site was accessible by When shingles are placed correctly, one
European Heritage Volunteers. Twelve lity, a cultural aspect which will soon a refreshing four to five kilometres bike cannot see any nails from the ground.
volunteers from all around the world turn into intangible heritage. I loved the ride. We first saw the windmill, the well
participated in the project. sauna close to the lake, and the flat rye and the sauna, which was a “must” for Continues on page 3

The ghost of the Thurmhof Schacht


E ven though silence seemed so nor-
mal in the mining town of Freiberg,
on one wintry night in 1950, it was espe-
to the grit and perseverance of its resi-
dents to preserve their heritage, driven
by the local phrase „Everything comes
made in the 2010s to repair and clean
the wheel to make it accessible to the pu-
blic. Saxonia Freiberg Foundation then
tors in Germany, who replaced the axis
of the wheel.
Of the original members involved
Iconoclasm: Now and then
In June 2020, protestors in Bristol
cially deathly quiet. The residents of the from the mine.“ Since the wheel is the took up the charge by providing funds in the shaft’s conservation process six toppled a statue of merchant Edward
two-story house in Thurmhof Schacht last surviving, functional and accessible of 15,000 Euros and maintaining the site elderly gentlemen still volunteer to show Colston in the city and dumped it into
could hear every sound from their sur- water wheel in the Freiberg mining area, following the conservation. However, the tourists around on occasion. In the harbour. The protestors felt the
roundings. Then, late at night, sudden it could be said that the discovery of the it was established that the visitations to spite of all the difficulties faced to save statue should fall, as Edward Colston
noises started coming from the ground. wheel was of extreme importance to the the Thurmhof Schacht will be restricted this small but irreplaceable part of heri- was involved in the slave trade and
The basement had been sealed by the pre- community. to 300 people per year due to the fragile tage, the mysterious ghost of the Thurm- should not be recognised in such a
vious owners and never then reopened. Home to the oldest university of mi- condition of the shaft. The task of con- hof Schacht has endured. public and adulatory manner. Others
The area had previously been a working ning and metallurgy in the world – the servation of the wheel was carried out by deplored the act as vandalism and an
mining site and thus the residents refrai- Freiberg University of Mining and Tech- oldest family-run mill-wheel construc- n Vibhuti Yadav & Zeinab Zahran erasure of history. Yet iconoclasm its-
ned from exploring it further. However, nology – the town has been inclined to- elf is a historical act that can be traced
this sound continued throughout the wards the protection and preservation of back to the Romans. Popular opinion
winters. After months of speculation and its mining heritage. The mining associa- and political motivations have always
ghost stories, the entrance to the base- tion Saxonia Freiberg Foundation, whose shaped our public monuments.
ment was unsealed, and there it was! A aim is to “research, maintain and preser- Read more on page 7
water wheel! ve the mining and metallurgical customs
Not only a water wheel, but a “func- and the mining and metallurgical tradi- Special focus: Ore Mountains
tioning” water wheel from the water sys- tion of piety in the Freiberg region”, was In 2019, the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří
tem of the Freiberg mining area, from a established in 1993. Since its inception Mining Region was inscribed in the
former shift called Thurmhof Schacht. the association has been a means to keep UNESCO World Heritage List. The re-
The news spread and various authorities the miners’ traditions alive. The basic gion is an outstanding cultural land-
came about to determine the condition working of the association is based on scape covering an area of almost se-
of the wheel. Given the consciousness community self-engagement. venty square kilometres in Germany
among the residents of their mining he- After the discovery of Thurmhof and Czechia. The region has a history
ritage, this find was extremely precious. Schacht water wheel in the 1950s, the of over 800 years of mining, contains
The mining history of Freiberg goes work to repair and clean the wheel star- countless heritage sites, and has been
back to the Middle Ages. Mining opera- ted in 1985 and a new set of stairs were a key influence in the development of
tions, which had begun in 1168, ceased constructed to make it easily accessible. mining technology all over Europe
in 1968 after 800 years. During those Thereafter, the structure remained aban- and beyond. Despite the termination
years, the town had perished and been doned until the year 2009 when it was of mining practices, its rich intangible
reborn despite the two great fires that only accessed for educational purposes. heritage is alive till today.
destroyed it. It now stands as a witness A new set of management plans were Read more on pages 9 to 11
2 seen with fresh eyes
Stone Age 101
L ife in the Stone Age is a mystery. But
luckily, there is a place where we can
learn and experience this period of hu-
living experience about the oldest times of
human history.
ce of wood, and cook the rabbit over the
fire – as well as build a small hut and live
over the summer alone in the woods – the
man history both in a scientific and in a *** children are very astonished!
fun way.
On the outskirts of the sleepy village Volker Heesch, ***
of Albersdorf, in northern Germany, an Head of the working group
open-air museum is located which aims Erika Drews, Chairwoman of the
to reconstruct life from the Stone Age Are the clothes made out of animal Stone Age Park Friends’ Association
period. It consists of true-to-scale out- skins comfortable for daily use?
door reconstructions of huts, gardens, Stone Age clothes look great! The visi- What was your main motivation to
and open fire places. There is even a tors are very thrilled when you wear Stone engage with the community at the
pond with water plants. Half of the mu- Age clothing, especially if you allow them Stone Age Park?
seum is a grassy field, for play and work; to wear a piece of it. However, leather- I like to do pottery, spinning, and wea-
the other half is a forest, for hunting and clothes are much different from clothes ving, and it was possible to practise these
gathering. There are alleys and wooden made out of cotton or wool fabric. They in the Stone Age Park. For the past four
pathways that connect different loca- are heavier, but stronger. Wet leather years, I have been the chairwoman of the
tions, creating an exciting walk for the heritage. The members of a local asso- Age Park give a living experience of the needs a lot of time to dry and during the Stone Age Park Friend’s Association, a
visitors. Once you enter the museum you ciation, vigorous in spirit and warm at circumstances of life in prehistoric times. drying process it becomes hard and you local group of 730 members. Every year,
are allowed to stay as long as you’d like. heart, regularly dress in Stone Age out- have to walk in it to keep it soft. But you we have a community of 40 to 50 parti-
You can even sleep there, which some fits and act out daily life of our prehisto- What are the challenges and advan- don’t need to wash it, and you can wear cipants living in the Hunter and Gathe-
people indeed do. ric ancestors. tages of maintaining such a specific it for many years without getting worn. rer Age part of the Stone Age Park doing
Despite the playfulness as described In this article we compiled three inter- museum? experimental archaeology.
above, everything is based on sound views that will give you a 101 lesson about One challenge is the development and How do children react to Stone Age
archaeological sources and has genui- the Stone Age. You will soon agree that realisation of educational programmes activities? What can we apply from the Stone
ne scientific value! The open-air muse- this is a secondary world meant for your which are both interesting for schools Most children are very surprised Age to live more sustainable today?
um is actually a field for experimental alter-ego to dwell there and be happy. and tourists while maintaining scientific about education in the Stone Age. They People in the Stone Age had very good
archaeology. Every year, new elements accuracy. But it is a privilege to develop know that there was no school and the knowledge about nature, for example
are added making it worth revisiting. *** such an interesting institution, in such a Stone Age children didn’t study reading about edible plants. Also, there was no
And these experiments don’t end with beautiful landscape. It is also a privilege or writing. But when we tell them that a need to transport fruits or vegetables
architecture or landscape design, they Dr. Rüdiger Kelm, Managing Director for our staff, especially for our educators, ten-year-old child could shoot and skin a around the world. They used nearly every
also stretch into the realm of intangible of the Open-Air Museum to get such direct and emotional reactions rabbit by himself, make a fire with a pie- part of an animal, not only the meat, but
to our programs and to our Stone Age also the bones, furs, skins, horns. So there
What is an open-air museum? Park as a whole. was very little waste.
Open-air museum means it’s prima-
rily outdoor-based, rather than a “clas- What will the Stone Age Park ***
sic” indoor museum with collections look like in ten years?
and exhibitions, such as the Museum of In ten years, we will have built the so- The Stone Age Park is a great place for
Archaeology and Ecology of the Coun- called “Stone Age House” which will be all of us to wonder if we could have lived
ty of Dithmarschen in Albersdorf. Both a new museum building at the entrance like our ancestors did 3,000 years ago. If
institutions, which are under the same of the Stone Age Park. In our Park area, you are living a zero-waste lifestyle, you
management, interact educationally and we will develop more infrastructure for will rediscover old environmentally-
provide visitors the chance to see the ori- the Palaeolithic, Mesolithic and Neolithic friendly tricks. If you are a lover of mu-
ginal findings and other scientific infor- surroundings. We will also install per- seums and being outdoors, this is the
mation upon which the reconstructions manent museum educators for the diffe- perfect mixture of history and fresh air.
in the Stone Age Park are based. The rent time periods. The whole Stone Age
reconstructions and models in the Stone Park will be better structured to offer a n Mariana Martinho & Petar Petrov

City explorers
S undays in Sofia, the Bulgarian ca-
pital, are ordinarily calm, if not a
bit sleepy. But suddenly the melan-
of unique textures, sounds, and co-
lors. They often ponder what it would
be like to live in a village versus the
rent kind of workshop. It is an outdoor
weekend adventure. Commonly held
in Sofia and Plovdiv, it can be arran-
jects – not only history and the arts,
but also math, music, geography, and
even gymnastics.
cause there is an extra mystery task.
They have to find some particular
architectural details and put them in
choly mood was disturbed! Sofia was city, or if they lived in the future. In ged in any other town. All you need “Can you play the notes of this the correct order. Suddenly an ama-
rocked by a tribe of raucous children one lesson, after watching Star Wars, is an array of interesting buildings, a building for me?” Rajeva asked the zing world emerges: eagles, lions, and
shouting, jumping, and pointing ex- they tried to build a fantastical city map, and mom and dad as navigators. children. “For each window clap your exotic plants appear on the walls of
citedly at the historic buildings. Each inspired by the movie out of bright With these tours, Rajeva promotes hands, and for each column stomp historic buildings.
child wielded a sharp yellow pencil plastic plaques and transparent glue. the idea that the city is like an open your feet”. The first attempts are al- One of the tasks that Rajeva spends
and a big map. Small groups of kids “It all started with the simple desire book and architecture can be an edu- ways clumsy, but quickly the children a lot of energy on is the illustration of
stood immersed in discussion while to spend more time with our children, cational tool. The historic buildings in get the idea, perfect the rhythm, and the city’s changes. She compares ar-
others tried to orient the map impa- to be together even when we work. particular are among the best for this soon they are making a lot of noise. chival photos with the current streets-
tiently. Their parents were also there They inspired us with this format and purpose – they can yield a wealth of “Historic buildings often follow rules cape. The children immediately spot a
– either restoring order or gazing up showed us the path,” said Rajeva. knowledge. She argues that the child- of symmetry and repetition,” she ex- missing sculpture or a window filled
at the buildings themselves. The “City Explorer” tour is a diffe- ren can practice all their school sub- plained. “They form an order. We are with bricks. But Rajeva insists on na-
This happens every time when ar- searching for it from left to right and ming all the additional elements from
chitect Magdalina Rajeva organises back from right to left.” our time that are attached to the histo-
the “City Explorer” tour. It is an extra- After this short music lesson it is ric facades and which often block their
ordinary event that encourages child- time for architectural gymnastics. unique character. Some that make the
ren and their families to learn about If you stand straight and hold your list are hanging cables, air-conditio-
Bulgaria’s rich architectural heritage hands to the body you are a column. ning machines, or flushing adds.
with fresh eyes. If you lift them up to 90 degrees – you At the end of the tour, Rajeva con-
Rajeva is one of the founders of the are a cantilever. Two children can form cedes that her goal is not to prepare
non-profit association “Architectural an arch easily by holding hands. This future architects. Instead, she wants
Workshops for Children”. She and is just the warm-up. The real exercise to encourage teamwork, discovery,
her colleagues, as well as architecture is to “build” with these elements the critical thinking, and above all, for
students, develop practical classes for nearby heritage site. Some of the kids the children to think of new, creative
primary school-aged kids. A series of play the role of the arched entrance solutions. But one thing is for sure.
lessons introduce basic architectural while the others knock on an imagina- From the next day on, heritage will
concepts in a fun way. The children tive door and ask if they can come in. never look boring.
usually cut cardboard, build models During the tour, the little explorers
with sticks and clay, or collect samples have to look around very carefully be- n Petar Petrov
immersions 3
Digging the history: The daily life of an archaeological excavation
dinates and heights are taken. Labels are In the fieldwork, you go deep into ar- Next time you visit an archaeological
created for the bags of artefacts collected. chaeology, but also into heritage and his- site, or you walk into a museum, think
Depending on the research, some soil tory. You get to discover the past – one of of all those archaeologists that dig up in
samples are taken for further investigati- the best feelings an archaeologist feels. weird positions, ending up covered in
on. The pictures, coordinates and heights We do a lot of different tasks while on dust and exhausted after the whole day
are combined to create photogrammetric fieldwork and all of them are important. under the sun or in a cave, but who enjoy
models of the site to have as much infor- All of those tasks bring history back to their work as much as they can.
mation available at the time of the inter- life and allows everyone to enjoy those
pretation. heritage sites. n By Aida Loy Madrid
“Every time I am in a site working I feel
I get the Nirvana: everything is happiness,
well-being, calm and peace.” Daniel Pérez
Legido, Spanish freelance archaeologist
Living together means that free time
is also shared. Most teams use their free
day to go investigating their surround-
ings. This usually involves visiting other
archaeological areas!
“You feel like you’re in a bubble, it’s like
you’re isolated from the world.” Jose María
Pout Lezaun, Spanish archaeologist
Restorers are working side by side with
the archaeologists. Their specific tasks
vary depending on the excavation’s orga-
nisation but mainly they are in charge of
extracting delicate artefacts and reconst-
ructing fallen walls.
“My favourite would be probably loo-
king after individual small features myself
or processing the finds.” Graham Nevin,
Irish archaeologist in a commercial com-
pany
Some excavations complete their field

W hen visiting a museum or an ar-


chaeological site, people usually
don’t think about who brought the ar-
the world.” Judyta Olszewski, Polish-
Canadian PhD candidate
The first day at the excavation de-
work with talks for the team and the peo-
ple of the surrounding locations. Mostly,
these talks are related to the work that
tefacts to those rooms. Archaeologists mands an explanation of the site itself is being done in the site and as a way to
aren’t usually well-known figures, but as well as of the forthcoming work by bring the local population closer to the
their work is really important to bring the person in charge. In many cases, the archaeological work, and raise awareness
heritage back to life and uncover history. first days also imply some gardening, for the need to take care of their heritage.
Then, why is their daily life on the field so weeding or hard digging of the first soil Visits are also common, from local peo-
unknown, even for those people who en- layers, using pickaxes and shovels. ple, schools and journalists that want to
joy the sites, the artefacts and the history? “Fieldwork is the way I feel more con- get a glimpse of what the archaeologists
Archaeological excavations usually nected with the past population and it is are doing. Often, the team will appear –
imply that the people working on the a liberating feeling.” Uxue Pérez-Arzak, covered in dirt – in the local newspaper,
field live together for the time the dig- Spanish PhD candidate radio or TV station while the director ex-
ging takes place. This means that for the Once that modern topsoil layer has plains what they are doing and what is the
first few days on a site, you are sharing been removed, the full archaeological goal for the campaign.
your time and space with strangers. work can start, with careful digging. The “Fieldwork is both going on an adven-
“The first couple of days are always a spaces that are being excavated, the dif- ture and arriving home.” Mar Vergara
bit like moving to a new school, you don’t ferent structures that are found and even Martín, Spanish archaeologist
know anyone and the work is new, diffe- the different soil layers are all carefully The last day is always bittersweet, it me-
rent, exciting.” Eoin Byrne, Irish archa- registered. Every excavation site has its ans finishing all the open tasks, leaving
eologist own map of the different soil layers or everything ready for visits or to cover the
The housing is, in many cases, not in stratigraphic units that have been exca- site to avoid damage to the remains. But
houses per se. Schools, youth hostels and vated. it also means to party and celebrate with
campsites are some of the most common “I am moved to think that I am fol- the team, those strangers who have be-
places that archaeologists take over du- lowing the clues of the lives of other peop- come your family for some weeks.
ring their campaigns. This means that le who were in that same place a long time “An excavation is an accumulation of
there is usually one space for relaxing ago.” María Camps Graupera, Spanish feelings all together. It is a really hard,
and eating, which may also double as la- archaeologist physical work, but it gives you a lot of
boratory space for the daily tasks. Registering means that every artefact, emotion and expectation.” Sonia Sequera
“Fieldwork concept is a whole different structure or soil layer has to be written Pineda, Spanish archaeologist in a com-
lifestyle. It’s a unique way to experience up, photographed or drawn and its coor- mercial company

Continued from page 1

The shingle placement was respectful materials – the small spruces. Large façade of the main house. The recipe twenty years while letting it breathe na- the work on the farm museum. Perhaps
of the natural fir fibre which can avo- spruces acted as the main supporting required water, rye flour, linseed oil, turally. We had almost enough to finish Arne and Martta Kauppila wanted to
id unnecessary water leaks inside the poles. They needed approximately fif- iron sulphate and iron oxide, in precise painting the façade. build a sense of community when they
shed. ty centimetres of sharpening at one proportions. Water and rye flour were During our farewell gathering, we donated their property to Laitila Mu-
This farm needed separate space for end to stick in the soil and burning on the first to boil. The oil is added for praised each other while admiring the nicipality in 1971, in order to become a
living and working. A wooden fence the same amount to avoid water dama- elasticity and the sulphate for durabili- long-lasting results of the team’s work. farm museum.
is used for this since the 13 th century. ge. Almost perpendicularly, we placed ty. The oxide granted the vibrant dark Members of the community joined this This reminded us of the values of lo-
Maybe even the Vikings had something slimmer spruce beams. All these were red colour which was very fashionab- gathering and seemed impressed with cal heritage and investment towards its
similar. The fence was made completely supported by braided long “ribbons” of le during the 17th century. Then ochre the immediately visible improvements future maintenance. Besides the friends
out of wood. First, juniper was used, but split spruce bark. I admit that this last climbed to the top of the trendy colour after only two weeks’ work. I think set- and pretty landscape which we will
in order to protect this rare substance, part was the hardest and most time- palette charts. The cooking process re- ting an example can be “extra”-commu- always remember, traditional woo-
spruce became preferable. In terms of consuming. The result is satisfying to quired constant stirring and approxi- nitarian when it comes to heritage. den architecture techniques have been
elasticity and durability, the two wood watch and extremely durable – up to mately five hours of boiling in a large Members of the local community passed to us to keep and employ when
types are comparable. This traditional thirty years. iron container covered on the exterior taught us talkoo – a local way of wor- needed.
fence is called riukuaita. We travelled Finally, the two teams reunited to for equal heat distribution. This natu- king together, voluntarily, for a set aim
to the nearby forest to gather the raw cook the natural paint needed for the ral dye protects the wood for fifteen to and provided an incentive to continue n Sorina Neacșu
4 through the digital lens
Norwegian folklore and the art of bringing legends to life
T he Norwegian landscape is filled
with stories of mythical creatures
and fairy tales. The stories have served
beautiful princesses or eat humans when
they smell “a Christian man’s blood”.
The main obstacle for trolls is that they
noise the trolls would become angry and
cook them for dinner.
Another myth deeply connected to
an important function in giving people are not very smart and they freeze to the landscape and natural phenomena
an explanation for natural phenomena stone when the sun rises. In terms of the that has a similar disciplinary aspect is
and how the wild and enchanting, but myths connection to the landscape this the story of the Northern Lights. It was
also dangerous, Norwegian landscape is where the trolls are most visible. Nor- believed that the magical light on the
was created. Exploring the natural world way is a country known for its fjords and winter sky could capture you if you were
and Norwegian intangible cultural he- mountains, and the people believed that outside in the dark. These stories were
ritage is therefore closely linked and many of these mountains were fossilised told to children so they would not ven-
should be enjoyed as a journey through trolls who were captured for eternity as ture outside in the cold and dark night.
the landscape. This is now possible with they tried to hide from the sun. The streams and waterfalls of the Nor-
the new storytelling app Hidden which The trolls also served a purpose in ex- wegian landscape were believed to be
seeks to bring the myths to life through plaining many large rocks, “trollstones”, inhabited by the Neck, a shape-shifting
augmented reality technology. situated on strange places that could not creature luring in the waters. There are
possibly have been moved by humans. It many different stories about the Neck,
Myths and nature was believed that the trolls had thrown including one where he turns into a hor-
In Norwegian folklore the landscape these stones when they were fighting se and tricks young children to sit on his life, people no longer continue to tell the The most innovative aspect of the pro-
is filled with “hidden people”, such as el- each other. In addition to shaping the back and kidnap them. In Norway he myths and local stories from one genera- ject is to bring the creatures from the
ves and Haugafolk who were invisible to landscape the trolls also played a role in is famous for being the master of play- tion to the next. Therefore, many stories, myths and legends to life with the use
most humans. Also known as people of disciplining people, making them stay ing the violin and if someone wanted especially the more local ones connected of augmented reality technology (AR).
the underground, they interacted with inside during the night and not working to learn the art, they had to befriend to a specific farm or village, and the rich This technology makes it possible to see
humans and animals alike and could be- on holidays – if humans made too much him. Like many of the other creatures intangible heritage are in danger of dis- and experience the mythical creatures as
come visible only if they wanted to show in Norwegian folklore he can be very appearing. a part of the reality through the smart-
themselves to humans or if a person was dangerous and dark, but he can also be The founders of the new Hidden app phone. Professional artists, program-
in possession of a special hat. The stories helpful to those who know how to ap- wanted to do something about this by mers and graphic designers worked for
of these mythical figures are often local proach him. His duality might be linked engaging young people with their cultu- months to bring to life these mythical
and connected to unexplanatory altera- to the equal dual nature of the element ral heritage by telling the stories in a new creatures from Norwegian folklore so
tions in the landscape around the farm and landscape with which he is linked. way through mobile technology. In the that humans finely may see them as they
or the animals’ behaviour. People could The many streams and violent waterfalls app there are hundreds of stories availa- shape and interact with the landscape
locate where these invisible helpers or of the Norwegian landscape are both en- ble for the user – but they have to walk to around them. Through visualising sto-
tormentors resided because they were chantingly beautiful, like his music, and the actual location of the selected story rytelling the app seeks to capture the at-
believed to live in mounds, often very vi- very dangerous if you act carelessly. to get full access. A map shows the user tention of younger users as well as high-
sible in the flat farming landscape. where to go and gives basic information lighting the importance of experiencing
The most famous and characteristic The legends come to life on whether it is a story about a troll, or the stories in the landscape they are a
creature from Norwegian folklore is the The trolls and other mythical creatu- a hulder – a beautiful mythical woman part of. The same technology is also used
Troll, a monstrous ugly being with a lar- res are still popular stories, but their im- like creature with a cow –, or informati- to visually “reconstruct” historical buil-
ge nose, messy hair and sometimes three portance has been declining with the co- on about a historical site. By linking the dings, sites, and ruins so the users may
heads. Living in caves in the mountains, ming of the modern era. With scientific stories to the place of origin it seeks to explore it in an accessible way.
the trolls are not friendly to humans, explanations and other entertainment preserve the heritage in the environment
and in several stories they seek to kidnap occupying more of people’s everyday in which it was created. n Wanda Marcussen

Assassin’s Creed and cultural learning: Separating fact from fiction


M y favourite thing about playing
Assassin’s Creed: Origins wasn’t
the ability to leap off of rooftops or de-
Assassin’s Creed is an open-world,
action-adventure video game released
by Ubisoft studios in 2007. Set within
rich and varied culture that included an
established Greek presence.
other elements were kept as close to fact
as possible. Historically, mummification
was perceived as a sacred and private
ted in ruins. One is able to explore com-
munity, trade and other parts of ancient
Egypt in-depth and up close provides
fending my avatar against packs of ra- different historical epochs it revolves Fact versus fiction practice by Egyptians, so when the game an interesting and relatively educational
venous wolves. Thrilling, but what I around the eternal struggle between the One of the first things Maxime Du- designers wanted to portray a mummi- journey if one chooses to delve deeper
valued most were the details. A feature Assassins, representers of peace and free rand, historian and lead World Designer fication ritual carried out in a temple in behind the fiction. As some fans of the
that drew me to Assassin’s Creed was will, and the Templars, a sect represen- of Assasins’s Creed, addressed during front of a crowd, Ferron stepped in to game familiar with hieroglyphs pointed
the bonus Discovery Tour, which allows ting order and control, drawing inspi- a conference was the issue of represen- offer advice against it. Separating fact out, the hieroglyphs that adorn most of
players to break away from gameplay ration from Ubisoft’s Prince of Persia: ting distances in ancient Egypt. Geogra- from fiction is challenging but manage- the temple walls in the gameplay and
and freely explore educational, factu- The Sands of Time and Alamut, a novel phical distances in the game map have able, there are elements that are lost in Discovery Tour are in fact close to ac-
al content as their avatars enabling an by Vladimir Bartol (1938). Assassin’s been condensed, allowing the player to translation or compromised for the sake curate. An archaeologist and fan of the
immersive, virtually first-hand cultural Creed’s gameplay is addictive; its open- move from region to region with speed. of more immersive storytelling but they games went so far as to try and decipher
education. I couldn’t help but wonder world format allows endless exploration Elements like manipulated topography may indeed stimulate an interest in the them, posting her progress on Twitter
to what level were elements portrayed of landscapes in hi-res detail. Assassin’s have been selected from factual history culture itself. and gathering a lot of interest. A re-
in Assassin’s Creed: Origins factually Creed: Origins introduces lead character and adapted for the game. We should search-centred programme that sparked
based on research. How accurately were Layla Hassan, researcher for the fictional take this these changes at face value: it Follow me to Ancient Egypt from Assassin’s Creed: Origins was the
these historical elements depicted? How Abstergo Industriess who embarks on a is a game, not a history lesson, but that The devil is in the detail and the game Hieroglyphics Initiative, developed by
much cultural and history education journey as assassin Bayek. The journey doesn’t mean that some learning can’t was filled with those. From plants to Ubisoft, Google Arts & Culture and the
took place during the game, specifically begins at the end of the Ptolemaic peri- take place during play. Indeed the game wandering animals, burial treasures British Museum in 2017. The project uses
while playing in the Discovery Tour od (49–43 BC) in a civilisation that had has been researched and developed by found in pyramids, each minor detail Artificial Intelligence machine learning
mode? already existed for years, supporting a a large group of historians and experts, has been developed with obvious care. to assign a specific line of code to each
a level of expertise that is evident whe- While some elements have been develo- known hieroglyph, allowing researchers
ther you embark on campaigns or ex- ped in tandem with experts, most events to rapidly decipher the hieroglyphs in
plore temples. Jonathan Ore interviewed in the main gameplay are distorted facts the game and also allowing for a rapid
in 2017 one of the experts behind the fictionalised for the game. It’s still ex- exchange of data between researchers
game design, Evelyne Ferron, on the citing to explore, but should be taken and developers. The project was develo-
challenges of building a virtual ancient with a grain of salt. Doing away with ped after the game was released, and the
Egypt. Ferron expressed some challen- the bloodthirsty violence, neck-stabbing end result was the Fabricus project, an
ges faced during research on ancient and looting, the Discovery Tour ena- open-source data-sharing initiative that
Egypt. Ferron’s extensive research was bles exploration of different cities and brought deciphering processes to the
translated into gameplay – farming, ani- histories of the Egyptian civilisation public. As I imagine the implications of
mals, trade routes, costume such as the with the same visual imagery and mo- gaming and cultural learning, it is back
clothes worn by a priest, even climate vements as gameplay; a virtual museum to the Animus for me now, onward to
were sewn together to create a sprawling encouraging the player to access ancient more adventures, with another burning
reflection of ancient Egypt. While fictio- Egyptian in a way perhaps previously question in mind – where can I go next?
nal elements were extracted from histo- unseen – first person virtual discovery
rical facts to weave immersive gameplay, of a huge civilisation that today is reflec- n Lianne Oonwalla
contemporary challenges 5
Virtual heritage: looking at your friends’ cat pictures on
Instagram. Without the frame of the
museum, a cultural consumer loses the
Questioning traditions
Responding to Covid-19 psychological parameters which help
them to appreciate the artefacts on dis-
play.

J ust after breakfast at the start of a


beautiful spring day, I’m gazing at
the ancient walls of the Colosseum. It’s
jump in a stilted fashion from gallery to
gallery, while looking at pictures of the
artefacts they could have found in any
For most of us, interacting with heri-
tage is a physical experience. Often, heri-
tage is tied to travel; it’s part of a process
crowded of course, but I’m not bothered. Google search. As with the Colosseum, of cultural immersion that amounts to
In fact, I’m relaxing on my couch, still the quality of these digital reproductions a temporary change in our daily lives,
in my pyjamas. It’s April 2020, and the is often incredible — if one “visits” the extending not only to what we see, but
closest anyone is getting to Rome’s most Louvre online, one can get a far closer what we eat, where we go, and what we
iconic building is through a virtual tour. look at the finer details of the Mona Lisa do. Without this element, we are not
The Covid-19 pandemic forced many than ever possible in life. Not to mention only taking heritage out of its setting
lives to a standstill, and heritage sites, the luxury of examining at your leisure, but taking ourselves out of the setting in
museums and landmarks along with it. which could never be managed in Paris, which we are most disposed to apprecia-
Like many businesses, the heritage sec- where the painting is perpetually swar- te it.
tor promptly adapted by going online — med by a crowd of frantic tourists snap- But there are positives to online heri-
at least, as much as possible. ping photos. tage as well. In addition to the advanta-
The virtual Colosseum tour features Despite their high resolution, these ges of closer and more careful examina-
stunning 360-degree panoramic photos paintings fail to evoke the same fee- tion, digitisation is undoubtedly a step
and even offers birds-eye perspectives
that a normal visitor would never see.
But it can’t capture the heat of a Roman
ling of awe. Perhaps this is because of
the modern scepticism of the digital
image, and how we’ve become desensi-
towards more egalitarian cultural heri-
tage. Sites that are potentially cost prohi-
bitive or inaccessible to less able-bodied
T raditions are the building blocks of
culture and heritage. When most
people attempt to explain their cultural
Europe. These traditions are fun and have
cultural meaning, but can we continue to
celebrate this excessive waste of food and
afternoon, the feeling of dust caught in tised to online images, no matter how persons are now only a click away. Ul- heritage, they often talk about the vari- water in good conscience when these are
your throat, the sensation of awe when high their quality. Photos and videos timately, online heritage opens up doors ous traditions that are practised in their precious, scarce resources?
standing among ancient bricks. Of can be edited and enhanced to an in- rather than closing them. After all, th- country or their family. But where do Though these localised practises can
course, reducing a three-dimensional credible degree — how can we tell if the reats to heritage sites are mounting, ma- these traditions come from? Who decides be problematic, widespread customs pose
structure to two dimensions, no matter northern lights are really so vibrant, or king virtual adaptation not just an ex- when a certain practise becomes an un- a larger threat to maintaining a sustai-
the resolution, can never quite compare. van Eyck’s detail so fine? Besides, wi- periment but an imperative in heritage questionable tradition? Why does society nable future. One such tradition is the
But what about paintings? Surely, clas- thout the comparison to our physical management. With sites under siege due accept most traditions without question? Christmas tree. Though its initial usage
sical museums can make the transition selves, everything becomes standar- to global warming, urbanisation, overc- Perhaps we should be questioning our dates back to pre-Christian Europe, it
online with more ease? dised, limited to the dimensions of our rowding, as well as the simple passage of traditions more. Some customs today are did not become widespread in the mo-
Yet it’s not always the case. The qua- laptop screens. time, a suitable means for preservation is modern incarnations of ancient practises, dern era until Queen Victoria of Great
lity of virtual museums varies widely There’s also a sense of psychologi- needed now more than ever. yet others are much more recent. Either Britain began using one in her home in
from site to site. The most unimpressive cal dissociation. Looking at the Mona Of all the online heritage options that way, the people who developed them, did 1840, as Alison Barnes of History To-
are those that simply allow a “visitor” to Lisa online puts it on the same plane as emerged during lockdown, interactive not live in today’s contemporary world. day states. Now, it just would not feel
ones were the best. The Dutch Instagram Our world faces many challenges that our like Christmas without a Christmas tree
account Tussen Kunst en Quarantine ancestors could not have dreamt of. An for the billions of people who celebrate
created a platform in which people stuck exponentially growing population is pla- the holiday in 160 countries around the
social distancing at home could recrea- cing considerable strains on our natural world. There are a few different options
te their favourite paintings with objects resources, which will only worsen as time available of acquiring these trees. Many
found around the house. The idea went progresses. This issue is further exacerba- people prefer to get a real tree for that
viral, with photos pouring in from all ted by the effects of climate change. We authentic Christmas feeling. Every year
over the world, and was quickly adopted depend heavily on what the earth has to millions of trees are chopped down to de-
by the social media accounts of several offer, yet some of our traditions require corate homes for only a few weeks before
museums, including the Rijksmeusm in us to be quite wasteful of these precious being tossed in the rubbish pile. Many of
Amsterdam and Los Angeles’ Getty Mu- resources. these trees come from tree farms where
seum. Sometimes these unsustainable tradi- the owners not only grow them for this
Sorina Neacșu, a cultural manager tions take the form of massive festivals exact purpose, but also replant more trees
from Romania, also took part in the that are centred around the mass-usage to replace the ones lost. This sounds like
challenge. She recreated Pablo Picasso’s of a particular resource. At the Carnival it could be sustainable, until you take
1937 portrait of Marie-Therese Walter, of Ivrea in Italy, revellers participate in into account the water used to grow the
which hangs in the Musee Picasso Paris. the Battle of the Oranges. According to trees and the emissions generated from
Neacșu said it was a good idea to keep Lara Statham of Turin Italy Guide, this transporting them from the farms to the
the audience engaged, as well as to dis- tradition that began in 1808 wastes over stores where they are sold. The other po-
tract herself from the stressful situation 700 tonnes of oranges each year. Spain’s pular choice is to purchase a plastic tree.
going on around her. She describes her annual food fight festival, La Tomatina, Plastic is not great for the environment,
process: “Firstly, I thought and looked began as an accident in 1945 according but at least it can last for many years if
for one resembling me a little bit. Se- to La Tomatina Tours. Over the years, cared for properly. Another less common
condly, I wanted that artwork to be part this fluke has evolved into a full-blown option is for a family to reuse the same
of a museum collection closed during the tradition where attendees pelt each other living tree for many years by replanting it
pandemic. This second criterion was im- with 120 tonnes of tomatoes. The ancient during the year. Not everyone has access
portant because I wanted to have a small celebration of Holi in India is celebrated to this more sustainable option though.
contribution towards promoting muse- across the country and across the world However, as sustainability becomes more
ums.” Ultimately, she felt that taking a in countries with Indian migrant com- mainstream, perhaps local governments
detailed look at the painting reminded munities, including several European can make public land available for this
her how important it is to see the origi- countries, with multiple large festivals purpose.
nal piece. This highlights an important where participants spray each other with Traditions are important, and they
aspect of this means of online heritage water and coloured powders. While ori- have the power to help us define oursel-
— not only does it foster interaction and ginally made from more sustainable ves. However, it is vital that we begin to
inspire creativity but encourages people materials for a smaller population, these scrutinise these practises instead of ac-
to visit the real-life galleries when it is powders are currently mass-produced cepting them without question in perpe-
safe to do so. from 95 % cornstarch. It is also estimated tuity. Allowing these traditions to evolve
Such projects are a reminder that we that 30 litres of water per person is used into more sustainable versions can help
are not just observers in the cultural he- at these festivals. Even if you only count us achieve a more viable future. After
ritage process, but active contributors the 2.2 million Indians living in Europe all, heritage is dynamic and constantly
to it. If anything, this crisis has proved according to the Non Resident Indians evolving because the people who practi-
that it’s in our nature to adapt creatively Online database, that is still at least 66 se it are always developing and living in
and find inspiration even in the darkest million litres of water wasted on this tra- a changing world. It is time to pay more
of times. Though our bodies might be on dition annually what does not even take attention to the realities of the world in
lock down, our need for cultural expres- into account the fact that all those people which we live and to apply them to our
sion cannot. also have to take a shower after the festi- beloved heritage traditions.
vities or that this festival is also celebra-
n Lindsay Taylor ted by many other non-Indians living in n Lisa Brown
6 symbols
Physical and symbolic mobility
The Boboli Obelisk
Modern setting Roman adventures ted it in his Roman villa’s garden complex
and Ancient Egyptian origin In the late 1st century AD under the on the Pincian Hill. In this context, the
People move, commodities move, ideas Roman emperor Domitian, the obelisk obelisk served yet another function: the
move, and – maybe more surprisingly – was removed to Rome where it decora- solar symbolism of the gilded orb on top
monuments move too. Architecture – in ted the temple complex of the Egyptian of the monolith as well as the four bron-
its broadest sense – is mostly regarded as goddess Isis on the Campus Martius, the ze tortoises fitted into the Medici family’s
earthed and place bound. But if we take a so-called Iseum Campense. Though legal astrological and political representation.
closer look, the notion of the immobility acquisition did sometimes occur, the Moreover, the fact that the obelisk was
of architecture gains fissures. violent removal of works of art to Rome found on the Campus Martius, which –
One of the first monuments to catch was already a well-established practice in according to legend – had once been in
the eye of a modern visitor to the histo- the Late Republican period (133–27 BC), possession of Rome’s last Etruscan king
rical Boboli Gardens in Florence is a 6.23 when Roman generals extracted sculptu- Tarquinius Superbus, was used to propa- the obelisk was set up in the amphitheat- raordinary mobile biography: ancient
metres high obelisk made of rose granite res and other valuable objects from sanc- gate the Medici’s ambitions to establish re of the Boboli Gardens, taking the place Egyptian Heliopolis – Imperial Rome –
which is situated just behind the elon- tuaries all over Greece. In the case of the a Tuscan kingship in the region referred it still occupies today. Renaissance Villa Medici – 18th century
gated Palazzo Pitti on a central axis. The Heliopolitan obelisk, the monument was to as Etruria in antiquity. Soon, the mo- Fifty years later, the larger one of two Florence. The ancient Egyptian obelisk
obelisk, together with a large granite ba- removed from its original context and nument was turned into a fountain, fol- ancient granite basins, which had also was torn out its initial setting and re-
sin, marks the centre of the amphitheatre, experienced a change of function in its lowing the fate of other obelisks in Rome. been set up in the Villa Medici’s garden peatedly inserted in different spatial and
which opens on the palace’s back façade. new setting, although it was fittingly in- complex in Rome, was transported to cultural contexts which ascribed new
Unlike its bichrome base designed by tegrated into a sanctuary of an Egyptian Adorning Florence Florence and positioned immediately meanings to the monument. Meanwhile,
the Florentine architect Gaspare Paoletti goddess. Meanwhile, it can be assumed and symbolic transformations north of the obelisk forming a monu- the acting persons show a common fas-
(1727–1813) the obelisk itself is obviously that most Romans could not read its hi- Finally, the Grand Duke of Tuscany mental ensemble. The Florentine ar- cination with ancient Egyptian culture;
not a product of a modern workshop. The eroglyphic inscription – which, however, Leopold (1747–1792) decided to trans- chitect Pasquale Poccianti (1774–1858) a phenomenon lasting over many centu-
monolith granite block originated from did not really matter because it was the locate the obelisk to Florence in the late planned to elevate both monuments on ries. The movement of the Boboli Obelisk
Aswan in southern Egypt and was carved obelisk’s materiality and specific other- 18th century. The monument left Rome a stepped, oval foundation assembling through space and time, not least, illustra-
during the reign of Pharaoh Ramesses II ness, in this case “Egyptian” appearance, in June 1788 and was probably shipped them, together with two female bronze tes that architecture and architectural mo-
(reigned 1279–1213 BC). The hierogly- which attracted the Romans. Not least, from Rome to Livorno where it conti- figures, into a splendid fountain complex numents can also be mobile, resulting in
phic inscription adorning all four sides of the monument in the Iseum Campense nued its journey by land. One can easi- oriented towards the palace’s back faça- new spatial constellations and the creative
the obelisk mentions the Egyptian deity was only one of several ancient Egyptian ly imagine the troubles surrounding the de. However, the project was never com- engagement – by fascination with the ali-
Atum who was the chief god of the anci- obelisks in Rome. transportation of the heavy monolith pleted and modern visitors to the Boboli en other and/or via absorption into alrea-
ent city of Heliopolis. Therefore, it seems In the 16th century, the cardinal Ferdi- – which only bears witness to the high Gardens are greeted by the provisional dy existing symbol systems – with other
likely that the monument was initially nando I de Medici (1549–1609), an off- amount of symbolic importance, or, in- arrangement dating back to the middle cultures.
erected in this city, although the original spring of the famous Renaissance banking deed, cultural prestige, ascribed to the of the 19th century.
spatial setting remains unknown. family, acquired the obelisk and re-erec- Heliopolitan obelisk. Eventually in 1790, The Boboli Obelisk exhibits an ext- n Samuel de Oer Almeida

Culture rooted in nature gain knowledge of the runes, the alpha- also that the name druid means, “kno- The Goddess and the Olive Tree
Trees as cultural heritage bet and sacred symbols used for divina- wing [or finding] the oak tree” in Celtic. Further south in Europe, another tree
tion in the north. This is also connected In Pliny the Elder’s descriptions of the is widely celebrated and considered sac-
with the ash tree’s association with wis- druids, he describes the Ritual of Oak red since ancient times: the olive tree.
dom, knowledge divination in folk belief, and Mistletoe. In the ritual the druids Crucial for cultural and economic deve-
which made the ash a sacred tree for the are said to be climbing a sacred oak and lopment all around the Mediterranean,
Vikings, sometimes referred to as Aesc- collecting mistletoe berries, which they the tree also possesses a sacred and my-
ling meaning “Men of Ash”. used for medicinal purposes and pos- thical dimension. This is possibly most
In addition, the trees’ significance was sibly to access spiritual roams. The oak visible in Greece. Athens, the centre of
visible in the everyday life of people and might have been one of the widest celeb- the ancient Greek world, was the city of
in traditional Norse sacrifice rituals. It rated trees in Europe in ancient and pre- the goddess Athena and mythology tells
would have been normal for every farm Christian times and considered sacred us that it was the olive tree that made the
to have a tuntre, a farmtree, which was amongst many different cultures across Athenians choose the goddess of war,
important to uphold order on the farm the continent. For example the Greeks fertility and wisdom as their protector.
and protect people and animals from considered the oak to be of special im- Athena competed with Poseidon over the
danger. The tuntre was a local represen- portance, where they consulted with the favour of the people of the new rising city
tation of the Yggdrasil tree and people oracle Dodona, second only to Delphi, and they each presented the people with a
sacrificed to the tree so that it would hold which was located in a sacred oak grove. gift. Poseidon created a spring of saltwa-
control over the “cosmos” of the farm in Also in Gaul and among the Germanic ter at the Acropolis, while Athena created
the same way the Yggdrasil upheld order tribes some of the most well-known sac- the olive tree and gifted it to the people.
in the entire universe. In addition to sac- red trees, often known as Irminsul, were The people chose the olive tree, which
red trees belonging to every farm and the oak trees, including the Donar’s Oak, de- thereafter became a fundamental ingre-
private sphere, there were also some more dicated to Thor. An Irminsul is believed dient in their culture and civilisation,
important trees of public religious value. to have been cut down by Carl the Great both in terms of cooking, construction
In Scandinavia the most famous was the during his crusade against the Saxons in and celebration of kings and athletes, and
Sacred Tree of Uppsala, which is believed the 8 th century AD. the city celebrated the goddess by taking
to have stood next to the temple of Upp- her name. Today a moria, an especially
sala. important and sacred olive tree, stands
on top of the Acropolis. A descendant of
The Sacred Oak the original tree gifted by Athena, the tree
Sacred oaks are associated with the symbolises the city’s close relationship

T rees are part of the non-human natu-


ral world, but looking at the cultural
heritage from all over the European con-
a classical image in many religions and
philosophies from around the world,
which often depicts the tree as a centre
mysterious druids, who today are associ-
ated with the ancient people of the British
Isles. The ancient Romans described the
with the goddess and the importance of
the tree in Greek culture through time.
On Crete, it is also possible to visit some
tinent and beyond it is obvious that the pillar that connects the underworld, the druids as powerful and wise priests of the extraordinary olive trees and learn about
celebration and mythical importance of known world and the heavens. In Norse Celts, but their exact identity and func- another myth connected to sacred trees.
trees, as well as the trees’ functions for religion and mythical tradition this tree tion is hard to pinpoint, as the source ma- One of the oldest olive trees in the world
construction and food production, are is known as Yggdrasil and played a cru- terial is inconsistent. However, their link is believed to be located at the island, the
also a crucial part of our cultural foun- cial part in the cosmology of ancient peo- to sacred oaks and groves in general has Olive Tree of Vouves. The exact age of the
dation. ple in most northern parts of Europe. It is fascinated researchers and new religious tree is not determined, but it is believed to
widely accepted that the cosmic tree was communities for centuries. It is believed be several thousand years old – yet it still
The World Tree believed to be an ash tree. An important that the oak tree played an especially im- produces new olives every year.
The World Tree, also referred to as story containing Yggdrasil is the myth of portant part in the religious practice of
the Tree of Knowledge or Tree of Life, is when Odin hanged himself in order to druids and a widely accepted theory is n Wanda Marcussen
symbols 7
Damnatio memoriae
T he last few years have brought in-
creased debates around the cultural
significance of toppling monuments. It
use an old statue’s base to post signs for
venting their frustrations about politics
and public life in general. These “talking
is enough to remember the heated dis- statues” became a voice for the ordinary
course around the fate of the statue of people of the city, almost like an early
slave trader Edward Colston, which was bulletin board.
torn down from its pedestal during the Throughout the centuries, cases of
2020 Black Lifes Matter protests in Bris- “vandalism” continued whenever collec-
tol. tive values needed readjustment. History
However, iconoclasm is nothing new. is most often decided in the public eye.
Though to some it seems like a radical re- It’s natural for a society’s perspective to
action, it’s actually a longstanding tradi- change, and the cultural landscape will
tion that stretches back to ancient Rome, reflect this. But the question remains on
where defacement of statues was a way how to dispose of unwanted memorials.
to express public disapproval. In respon- An act of destruction can become a
se to extreme misdeeds, Romans would memorial of its own. Whether memo-
erase all traces of someone’s image and rialised through photography, video, or
name, a practice called “damnatio me- another art form, a toppling statue ser-
moriae.” To be excised from the collecti- ves as iconic imagery. No less powerful
ve memory of the city was a punishment is an empty pedestal, which makes the But that doesn’t mean that these mo- difficult past is commemorated through street they originally stood. This allows
worse than death in a city where public removed object all the more conspicuous numents lack historical value. To his- the monuments, without them staying visitors to imagine the original inter-
image and legacy were paramount. In for its absence. torians, statues can provide crucial in Budapest’s public spaces. The park action with monuments, which lacked
the 16 th century, Roman citizens would Removing a statue from its plinth does evidence, not necessarily about the time- works almost like a massive “idolised” “context” combined with the physical
not mean it should be destroyed forever. period of the person they represent, but Soviet square, with the many monu- sensation of the tall, powerful monu-
Statues still serve a purpose as historical about the time-period in which they ments placed in symmetrical orientation ments towering over the visitors.
artefacts. Much debate has surrounded were erected. If not destined for a long- with the flower bed shaped as a red star Iconoclasm and the re-contextualisa-
the educational value of statues. Many term storage space, these statues should in the middle. The site embodies that tion of existing monuments and other
who argue that statues should remain have a new life in a museum, where the importance of context. By playing all heritage have been an important way of
claim that they have the power to teach context of their dark history can be fully the monuments in the same space, their questioning dominant historical narra-
about history, while those who want appreciated by the public at leisure. In narratives are re-contextualised from tives. But what do we have to consider
their removal dismiss this as a naive in- this way, statues can continue to “talk” official, unquestionable “storytellers” to when creating our present “monuments”
terpretation of how the public interacts to us, sharing with us not the idealisati- “fossils” of history. This is further heigh- and narratives? What can we do in the
with art. There are better ways to learn on of an individual, but insight into the tened by the small exhibition space ope- present to create and represent Euro-
complex history than through a public growing values of a society. ned outside the park, which outlines the pean heritage and institutions that in-
monument, and the fact remains that a An example of this is the Memento history of the country’s communist dic- clude more diverse voices and that are
statue is an inherent glorification of its Park in Budapest. The park was set up tatorship. On the other hand, the pieces able to cast a critical eye on the past?
subject — simply adding an explanatory as a way to store the city’s Soviet statu- themselves do not have any descriptions
plaque does little to change this. es, creating a space where the country’s apart from the name of the square or n Karen Kiss & Lindsay Taylor

The mystery of the beheaded


sculpture of the Queen of Pannonia
H ave you ever dreamed about fin-
ding a piece of historical sculpture
and winning a prize? If so, there is still
In the second half of the 19th century,
General Ištvan Tir, a naturalised Briton
of Hungarian descent and builder of the
Canal. The sculptor of the monument is
not known. It was believed that the sta-
tue represented Empress Maria Theresa,
a chance for you! In case you go to the Corinth Canal in Greece, accepted the but today we know that it represents the
small village Mali Stapar in Serbia, you proposal from the Habsburg monarchy “Queen of Pannonia”.
will see an imposing sculpture called the to extend the canal adding a branch lea- The “Queen of Pannonia” is not only a
“Queen of Pannonia”. More broadly, if ding to Novi Sad. Tir convinced English symbol of a remarkable event in the his-
you are seeking to find the missing part of investors to invest one million pounds to tory of the Great Bačka Canal, but also
this sculpture and get a reward, you may build the extension of the canal. This new a driver of the preservation of damaged
find inspiration in this article. branch of the Great Bačka Canal, which monuments in Serbia.
Proudly shining at the Great Bačka starts at Mali Stapar and leads to the Da- Legend says that in 1915 – in difference
Canal, the statue was a symbol of the new nube near Novi Sad, is 69 kilometres long to Hungarian sources which claim that
branch of the canal. and intended for irrigating large areas of it happened in 1919 –, local Serbs tied
The original canal, built between 1793 state land. the statue with ropes and tried to tear it
and 1802 by brothers Jožef and Gabriel The excavation of the new canal began down because of their displeasure and
Kiš, connects the Danube to the Tisza. in 1872. General Ištvan Tir managed to defiance towards the Austro-Hungarian
The construction of the canal was initia- ensure the presence of the Austrian Em- government. However, they only mana-
ted by the Austrian Emperor Franz I and peror and Hungarian King Franz Joseph ged to take off her head and throw it into
was an important event in the history of I at the ceremony on this occasion. Franz the canal. Moreover, the authorities pro-
Bačka region because the canal was vital Joseph, accompanied by a steamship, was mised a reward to the person who found
for regulating water levels in the urban warmly welcomed by the residents when the lost statue‘s head. Unfortunately, the-
area, especially in arable land, pastures he travelled through the Great Bačka Ca- re was never any trace of the head, and it
and meadows. nal to Mali Stapar where the extension remains unidentified to this day.
The excavation of the original canal works would begin to lay the cornerstone. Interestingly, folklore has been wea- in her right hand, the statue was situa- creases the attractiveness of its natural
was carried out by around 4,000 wor- With a copy of the Law on Canals and one ving a story about a golden chariot with ted on a giant pedestal, proudly looking surroundings, especially when viewed
kers, including prisoners from the Aust- silver copper and Hungarian gold coin, treasure hidden beneath the monument – at the horizon of the canal. Originally, a from a small hill or the opposite side of
rian wars with France. In the first deca- he laid the foundation for the future me- but this chariot, too, remains a mystery. beautifully wrought iron fence was also the canal. It also demonstrates the urgent
des after its excavation, between 70,000 morial statue, the “Queen of Pannonia”. An inscription about the event is carved surrounding the monument. Nowadays, need to monitor and better understand
and 80,000 tons of goods per year were Then, with a silver spoon, he poured a below the Hungarian crown of St. Stefan the pedestal is sprayed with graffiti and measures that need to be taken to in-
transported through the canal, including little plaster into the monument‘s found- on the monument‘s front side. In additi- covered with numerous inappropriate in- crease the resilience of cultural heritage.
cereals, salt, wine, tobacco, wood, coal, ation, which marked the end of the cere- on, this inscription is also damaged, and scriptions. Additionally, extreme weather I understand that this statue should not
sand, construction materials, metals, and mony and beginnings of the excavations. the words are difficult to read. On the events such as storms, rain and the high only be well preserved but also be lived,
more. Basically, the canal represented the Over seven metres high, the monument south side, under a stone garland of laurel temperature have impacted and perma- promoted and shared by heritage practi-
most economical route to transport large was made of stone and built-in classical leaves, it is written that engineer Ištvan nently degraded the sculpture. tioners and interpretive planners.
quantities of agricultural products and Roman style and offers paths to a deeper Tir erected the monument. Yet, representing a masterpiece of hu-
construction materials. meaning of the values of the Great Bačka With a helmet on her head and a sword man creative genius, the statue still in- n Rea Terzin
8 living routes
Parenzana: A narrow gauge railway history in Istria
lower rail taxes for this type in the mon- until 2014. In this period, the bicycle and
archy. Along the trail many objects were walking path was arranged, safety fences
built, like 9 tunnels, 6 viaducts, 11 bridges, on viaducts and bridges were installed,
numerous stops and railway stations, the the Museum of Parenzana in Livade was
biggest ones in Trieste, Buje and Poreč. Di- established, an original locomotive model
vided freight, luggage and passenger wa- set on the trail, milestones replicas, infor-
gons were driven by a steam locomotive. mation and signalling boards and resting
The Parenzana employed many resi- stops were placed along the trail, and even
dents and encouraged the development a former school building in Buje was re-
of railroad villages and towns through the novated as a hostel. Also, training grounds
export of goods from Istria to Trieste like have been arranged in cities Piran, Izola,
olive oil, vine, wood, hay, fruits, vegetab- Motovun and Poreč, with many Bike &
les, salt. Station buildings were inhabited Bed offers, bike renting stops and services.
by railway employees coming from abroad Along Parenzana, small towns offer a
with their whole families. variety of culture, like a film festival in
After the fall of the monarchy, Parenza- Motovun and truffle festivals in Livade,
na was ruled by the Italian State Railways Oprtalj or Motovun. Today, it is a route of
until 1935. It was then, after 33 years of the importance of Istria, according to the
operation, that the wagons stopped trans- county spatial plan.
porting passengers, tobacco and olives So, years before the European Year of
because road forms of transport became the Rail, in Croatian Istria, Slovenia and
more cost-effective. Through the fol- a small part of Italy, innovation and susta-
lowing years the railway assets, including inability were justified through revitalisa-
rails, were sold to other companies. tion of the railway route. Once a flagship

T he year 2021 was declared as the


European Year of Rail, and the cele-
bration emphasised the attributes of sus-
cal population and are even revitalised
through railway routes and buildings.
This is the case of Parenzana, a former
bought fashion pieces from Italy, and boys
without tickets hopping on the slow train
by the way.
There was a story, although its authen-
ticity has never been confirmed, that Itali-
an authorities dismantled the railway and
of development of northwest Istria, it is
today one of the most visited biking and
hiking paths of the region. Even with only
tainability, safety, and innovation for this narrow-gauge railway that once connec- sent the building material to Africa, then its route preserved, reusing the railway
important mode of transport, which was ted Trieste, Italy via Koper, Slovenia with History of the railway and its end Italian Ethiopia. But it never arrived there, route from the past once again filled the
often the flagship of continental develop- Poreč in Istria, Croatia. Today it‘s a hiking Parenzana spans a 123 kilometres long as the ship with allsteel and wood from path with life, connecting past and future,
ment throughout history. and cycling route, which winds through stretch, starting in Trieste‘s San Andrea Parenzana sank in the Mediterranean Sea. people, goods and towns.
These keywords promoting the bene- the green hills, over the stone bridges and Station in Italy, moving through today‘s Some old Istrians refer to Parenzana as the
fits of rail in the European future encou- tunnels, connecting picturesque villages Slovenia, ending in Poreč (Parenzo) in Istrian Titanic due to this story. n Mina Plančić
rage our reflection on the importance of and small towns like Buje, Grožnjan, Moto- Croatia. It was built during the Austro- After 1935, Parenzana – with its nu-
the railway, and make us think of how vun, Oprtalj, Završje, Vižinada, and other Hungarian Empire between 1900 and merous bridges, viaducts, tunnels, railway
the spatial heritage of the railway perma- places in northwest Croatian peninsula, 1920. On the initiative of Istrian munici- stations and facilities – was abandoned.
nently shaped the landscape. Istria, which is rich in natural and cultural palities, it was in operation from 1902 to
Heritage railways nowadays refer heritage and gastronomic specialties. 1935. Parenzana was built to connect nor- New life to the old route
mostly to narrow-gauge railway lines Although neither the train nor the thwest parts of Istria, all 33 small towns Parenzana route remained largely pre-
with buildings along the route. Many of rails have been preserved, while wal- and villages from Poreč to Buje in Croatia, served with its bridges, tunnels and stops,
those European railways are still ope- king along the Parenzana one can almost with Trieste in Italy as an important tra- except from parts intersected by new high-
rating and maintaining railway scenes hear the whistling of a locomotive or see ding centre. way. The biggest part of it has been conver-
from the past. Unfortunately, some are the merchants and peasants with wicker The railway had a slight slope, with its ted into a bike and walking route through
no longer in use and some are not even baskets rushing to the wagons with their highest peak at only 311 metres above sea revitalisation projects funded by the Euro-
fully preserved, but they can be repurpo- products to sell them at the markets in level. The average speed was only 25 ki- pean Union as a joint project of Croatian
sed to recreational, education, ecological Trieste or Poreč. It is not hard to imagine lometres per hour, since it was built as a and Slovenian municipalities. In the name
routes. This way, historical railway scenes wagons full of satisfied customers coming narrow-gauge steam engine railway with of health and friendship, it started on the
remain present in the memory of the lo- back home, chatting and showing newly- only 760 millimetres track width, due to 100th anniversary of the railway and lasted

Traversing Transylvania: Romania’s new pilgrimage route


“Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” (Ralph Waldo Emerson)

T his quote has served as inspirati-


on for countless individuals since
Emerson penned it in the mid-19th cen-
plete the trail in its entirety could take up
to several weeks, but Tasuleasa Social As-
sociation encourages hikers to adjust the
sing the unspoiled Romanian lands-
cape. But Tasuleasa Social Association
recognised that the decision couldn’t
tury, but for the Tasuleasa Social Asso- length of their trip to their needs. be theirs alone, so they involved local
ciation in Romania, it also served as a When asked what makes Via Transil- communities and governing bodies and
blueprint. The organisation has set an vanica special, executive director Ana accounted for their ideas and wishes
ambitious goal for themselves: to show- Szekely remarked on how the associati- while constructing the path. “We always
case the natural beauty of their country, on made the concept of the pilgrimage looked for people who were eager to help
from one end to the other. For their trail, route their own. To add a special twist, us with choosing the right trail, because
Via Transilvanica, the association drew Tasuleasa Social Association commis- locals know their land better than anyo-
inspiration from the Camino de Santia- sioned a stone marker to measure each ne else,” Ana Szekely explains. As a re-
go, a beloved pilgrimage route that leads kilometer on the trail. The stones, which sult, their trail includes a rich tapestry of
to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Ha- weigh around 230 kilograms each, have various cultural, ethnic, historical, and
ving already arranged an annual foot been marked with an iconic orange “T”. geographical landmarks, each showca-
race that runs through a mountain trail They are also decorated with reliefs re- sing the individualities of the region. Of
called Via Maria Theresia, it seemed only flective of the identity and character of course, not everyone could be included,
natural to transpose this idea to a larger the region, carved by students from a and some communities felt excluded if
scale and create a route that bisects all of local arts university. Thanks to these the trail passed them by. But Ana sees
Romania. unique carvings, Ana Szekely remarks this as a positive sign. The enthusiasm ation predicted it would take ten years nished part of the trail for hikers in the
The trail begins in northeastern Ro- that “we are not only looking at road si- and interest from the locals suggest that to complete the project when they be- coming months and years. Though the
mania in the town of Putna, the final gnaling, but possibly at something that perhaps the trail can be expanded some- gan. Yet, just two years in, they’ve al- route is yet unfinished, Ana Szekely in-
resting place of 15th century ruler Ste- might become the longest outdoor art day and encourage those already invol- ready completed 800 kilometers of the vites everyone to come enjoy the brea-
phen the Great. It then crosses through exhibition.” ved to take an active role in their section path. Despite this unprecedented speed, thtaking beauty of Romania. She leaves
Transylvania, eventually concluding at The decision regarding which land- of the trail. “A project like this belongs to there’s still miles to go before they sleep. you with a definitive promise: “We gu-
the country’s southwestern border. When marks to include on the route involved everyone,” Ana Szekely says, “this is one Beyond the physical completion of the arantee that a day into your trip, you’ll
complete, the project will encompass multiple actors. From the outset, it was way in which this road could unite us.” trail, Tasuleasa Social Association will want more and more.”
1,200 kilometers and include hundreds of clear that the focus would be on natural With such an ambitious undertaking need to market the trail as a potential
landmarks and cultural sights. To com- rather than cultural heritage, showca- before them, Tasuleasa Social Associ- destination, as well as maintain the fi- n Lindsay Taylor
ore mountains - places, people, traditions 9
Landscape and houses: The storytellers
W hen a stranger arrives in the region
of Schneeberg, they will observe
the picturesque surrounding and see some
torical depositions of mining material, and
they hide thousands of meters of mining
tunnels beneath the surface. They also pin-
factories, processing plants, mining shafts
constructions, or stamp mills in the mea-
dows.
fined by its own ostentatious monuments
such as the uranium factory and the mi-
ners’ hospital in Erlabrunn.
unexpected things in the landscape. What point the locations of former minefields, Understanding the evolution of the mi-
seems to be a natural part of the scenery with shafts, tunnels, and safe exit doors at ning cultural landscape is difficult without Unique houses decorations
is not always the case! One can see tran- the end of the hill. Most of the woods in knowing the long rich history of mining, Mining has not shaped only the land-
quil small lakes, substantial mounds, and the area were cultivated with fast-growing dating from the 12th century until the scape, but also influenced art, architec-
hills with nicely formed forest areas on trees, and used in the past for constructing 1990s, which defined the landmarks and ture, and culture. Black stone slabs roofs
top of them. All these supposedly natural the mine tunnels. There are plenty of artifi- influenced today’s characteristics of the are characteristic of both old and new
features of Schneeberg’s countryside are in cial lakes, formed to retain the main valua- townhouses. ´ houses of Schneeberg, and that perfectly
fact shaped by specific human activity over ble source of energy for processing mining evokes the view of the city from the chur-
the past 800 years. materials in various locations. Those were Imposing landmarks ch tower. Slate slabs – long-lasting, easy
parts of the cultivated water management If we time-travel through the past, we ´ formable for steep and rounded roofs the miners and incense burning figurines
Everything came system with channels, today only used by will see how landmarks bear witness to the and even façade decorations – were one on houses are very common, too. They
from the mining locals for fishing and relaxing. Also, the change of focus in human activity in the of the products of the region, a local ma- are also an integral part of the Christmas
The lasting impact of the mining acti- view of mild natural forms is sometimes area. As the most visible thing in the land- terial significantly exported in history. mountain models or of the pyramids,
vity in the region is visible nowadays both interrupted by unexpected phenomena in scape, landmarks provide a unique look to Locals have a special way to tell the the front garden models and decorations
nearby and inside towns and villages. Re- natural vistas that rise abruptly from the the area of Schneeberg. The construction story of mining history with special fea- in the stylised form of the mining hill
markable steep mounds appear to be his- greenery in its sizes, such as chimneys, of the highest church tower of St. Wolfgang tures they embed on the façades of their showing the story of the mining process.
church in Schneeberg has been a focal houses and in gardens. Some symbols, Also, little black wagons in the backyards
point for the community ever since it was some urban ornament or furniture, or decorated with flowers marked with the
constructed in the 16th century and still models of children‘s toys, made of metal well-known mining greeting “Glück auf ”
dominates the modern townscape. With or more often wood, because handicrafts – Good luck – are an addition to the sto-
the industrialisation of the region came were additional incomes in the region, rytelling of the mining.
the shift in perspective. New landmarks arose as a result of working with wooden The connection with the ancestral
emerged because of the post-mining pro- remains from mining. miners is still alive! All these living tes-
duction activities. The “Schindlers Werk” Hammer and chisel, basic tools for the timonies of mining heritage visible in
blue dye factory emerged because of the most common method of mining, when the landscape and on homes convey the
extraction of cobalt ores and the produc- laid across each other make an internati- strong relationship with the past and
tion of blue dyes, and it is still active to- onal symbol of mining, and can be seen build an unbreakable bond within the
day. Among the manor and storehouses is on almost every house or building. So- local community in and around Schnee-
a high rising chimney that symbolises the called Schwibbögen – carved light hol- berg.
strive for production. The extraction of ders as a reminder of the value of the light
uranium during the 20th century was de- in mining – as well as wooden figures of n Joanna Markova & Mina Plančić

The secret behind the blue colour


T he fascinating history of the blue
pigment in the Ore Mountains is
quite mysterious. We all remember how
produce the blue pigment. However, the
milestone was accrued in the first half of
the 18th century when the former miners
Processing of the cobalt-blue and
transition to the ultramarine-blue
The production process of the cobalt-
we felt when we first saw the flashing took advantage of the cobalt mineral. blue had three steps: The first phase was
blue colour hidden in the blue factory’s The word “cobalt” was most probably de- to distinguish the elements and mine-
storage! We loved the moment we ope- rived from the German word “Kobold” rals from the raw material to proceed.
ned the box, and the blue colour was the which means gnome or unscrupulous For example, arsenic – a very poisonous
very thing to which our desire clung. rascal. The cobalt mineral has a silvery substance – was one of them! Then, the
We discovered how the cobalt-blue appearance but when it interacts with workers had to combine cobalt ore with
was extracted from the mineral through the weather, it shows purple colour. It is other raw materials, and finally to heat
traditional process. And who would a mysterious thing that men could have it up, melt it, and pour it into the water.
have imagined that this shiny and bril- known how to produce blue pigments The oldest of the blue dye factories
liant blue pigment derived from the from this silvery and later purplish ma- was the “Schindlers Werk” smalt works
purple raw material becomes blue after terial back in history. which Erasmus Schindler founded in
being fired in a certain way? Yet this Schneeberg and its surroundings be- Zschorlau in 1650. The manor house
prestigious cobalt-blue pigment has been came an important industrial place for and the warehouse which do exist till
exported in many countries causing the cobalt-blue pigments through five active today are two of Saxony’s oldest and
creation of various artistic traditions all blue colour factories, and the production most characteristic blue dye factory
over the world. process has been constantly developed buildings. This factory is still opera- to calculate when and how to lower the during their Christmas celebrations,
So, dive into the world of blue! so that the cobalt-blue produced in the ting and had been producing blue dye temperature! the miners with blue pants were superi-
19th century was significantly improved till recent times even though cobalt- The ultramarine colour was used or to the others hierarchically. Yet, they
From purplish to the blue pigment from the one previously used. blue production stopped in 1860. In the mainly for internal and exterior wall wanted to incorporate white colour
The mining town of Schneeberg was same year, the cobalt-blue production paints. However, ultramarine produc- into their costumes to demonstrate the
founded in response to silver ore mi- was replaced by the production of ul- tion stopped in 1996 because of environ- ”whitest appearance” possible because
ning, but the Baroque aesthetic which tramarine-blue since ultramarine was mental regulations. the blue pigment was tough to remove
the town has today is the result of co- less expensive to produce and provided from clothes. Their goal was to convey a
balt ore mining. The Schneeberg mining better results for colouring paper and Blue colour as representation clear message that the blue pigment was
landscape played an essential role in laundry. Additionally, the ultramarine- of richness and wealth processed flawlessly by the workers.
cobalt mining and blue dye production blue required less amount of colour Who would have imagined that this For people living in the region, blue
from the 17th to the 19th century and was than cobalt-blue, which took up a great famous cobalt-blue would become a was something more, a sense of pride
the leading producer of blue pigments deal of raw materials. representation of the wealth, richness, and rich history; for us too – the cobalt-
in Europe. Colours of cobalt-blue were There is something special about and pride of the Ore Mountains regi- blue is not just a colour. It is a witnessing
most often used on porcelain, tiles, and the ultramarine process: The workers on? Interestingly, did you know that the story of the technological mining ad-
even laundry – to turn yellowish laundry had to be trained for up to ten years blue pigments produced in Schneeberg vancement, living and working envi-
white again. Essentially, cobalt-blue pig- to produce a quality ultramarine-blue were used to colour Venetian glasses, ronment, as well as the culture and tra-
ment was shipped from Saxony world- colour. All the mixed materials nee- Portuguese tiles, Meissen and Chinese ditions of the Ore Mountains. In short,
wide. ded to be heated up for three days to porcelains and ceramics, and Holland’s the blue dye production in Schneeberg
The story started with this silvery ap- 900 degrees. Workers controlled the wares as well as applied by artists from is a symbol of remarkable events in the
pearing mixture, containing cobalt. The temperature with a metal tool, but also many countries? mining history, and perhaps, in us, so-
blue pigment was known at least since with their eyes as optical measurement Blue exists in every piece in Schnee- meone very old still hears the mechani-
the Middle Ages, during the smelting tools for this heating process. In other berg, and it represents the symbol of cal sound of the process of heating the
process of the silver and called the ‘”sil- words, workers had to go through ten richness, wealth and being superior as living pigment of the blue.
ver robber’”. It was discovered in the Ore years of training to control the process well as pride. For example, when you
Mountains that cobalt could be used to by using their eyes as an optical device check the traditional miners’ costumes n Rea Terzin & Gözde Yildiz
10 ore mountains - places, people, traditions
Shining a light on the past of the Ore Mountains
A journey through the meanings and
symbolic values of light in the Ore
Mountains opens a window to the close
Wolfgangsmassen Mine – and had the
opportunity to interview the members of
the related mining association. Together
had would be the only light they saw in
their world of mining. It guarded and en-
sured a happy exit. Imagine going down
relationship of lighting tools and mining with Karsten Georgi we went deeper in a cold and dark mine when the lamp
tradition in the region, a history that into the history starting from candle that is hanging around your neck is the
has lasted more than 700 years. Mining use to electricity. Karsten Georgi led us only way to bring vision in an otherwise
impacted the development of connected to a room where many old objects were hostile environment. Without the lamp
traditions, handcrafts and the life of the stored and it seemed that time would a miner would have to use the memory
local residents. have stopped there. and tactile senses to find the way back or
Arriving to the Ore Mountains in an From Karsten Georgi we heard that the would be lost in labyrinths of tunnels.
early spring, our eyes are full of diffe- miners used a variety of different light Therefore, lighting became a symbolic
rent shades of green. It was the last day sources: the wood resin at first, then ani- representation of life in mines and was
of April, and the locals welcomed us with mal fat for the hand lamp. The oil lamp, used as a way to celebrate and support
a bonfire ceremony. As taught by the lo- known as “Schneeberger Blende”, was the horrific efforts that workers were put-
cals, the burning of bonfires comes from wooden miniatures of the arched lighting used by miners underground. We noticed popular from the 17th century until 1927. ting into it. The miner figurines holding
an ancient tradition when inhabitants that we have been seeing all around can that the number of candles varies from After that, the carbide lamp was used, a lamp mostly carved from wood were
gathered around the bonfire to celebrate also be found there. seven to ten or twelve. Based on a tour and then the electric lamp. The story told placed on the windows to guide the ex-
the onset of spring. A lady from the Centre explained us guide, the number seven could represent by the locals added so much fun to our hausted workers back home. After the
The variety of items related to light eve- that the arch is a representation of an seven days of creation in the Bible. Howe- journey of finding the hidden stories of 1850s, the motif changed to the afore-
rywhere has caught our attention. When entrance to a mine, and the figures de- ver, through multiple conversations with lighting. Karsten Georgi, like all the other mentioned arched lighting.
cruising through the streets of the villa- picted inside are the region’s main ac- residents later we realised that the num- people we met here, is really enthusiastic
ges and small towns one cannot overlook tivities such as mining, wood carving ber of candles might not hold a specific about the tradition and fully satisfied our Heritage is lighting our future
the lamps and candles that are often ac- and lace-making. The two figures in the common meaning. curiosity. Although all the mining activities
companied by figures of miners, on the middle holding the arch on their heads have stopped in the Ore Mountains since
houses’ façades, in the craft shops, on the are the miners, showing that the mining From candles to electricity The shining light from the past some time, the interconnected stories
signage at road junctions. The surround- industry played a crucial role in the de- But miners did not just use candles un- Light has not only a functional purpose and legends continue to be vibrant in
ings give us hints about the importance velopment of the region. On the left and derground. What kind of lamps were in for the miners, but carries a symbolic me- local life. Every year near Christmas, the
of lights in daily life and traditions of the right side the traditional handcrafts are use? To find out about the development aning. The life of a miner was not blessed light festival called “Lichtelfest” which
Ore Mountains. represented. A wood carver is working of lamp technology we visited the Fund- with sunlight as most of the day was links mining traditions and modern cus-
The most commonly seen arched ligh- on a new figure and a woman creating grube Wolfgangsmassen – the former spent underground digging the ore for toms attracts many tourists.
ting in the region has a specific motif, a twisted lace pattern using a bobbin the processing. The winter months were The stories of the miners are still alive
generally composed by four figures and technique developed in the region in the especially difficult as the work started be- in the mountains, in the lighting deco-
lamps or candles above the arch. What do beginning of the 16 th century. Both han- fore the sunrise and ended after sunset. rations, and in the memories of the peo-
those figures represent? Why did they be- dicrafts have a connection to mining. Miners were under a tight schedule. They ple. The light that shone on the miners
come symbols? How is the craft connec- The excessive amount of trees that were hardly saw the sun, and the lamp they represents a hope for them, as well as the
ted to the mining history of the region? cut during the mining activities impac- mining industry was a hope for the lo-
And how the light was brought into the ted the development of wood carving cal development. As the arched lighting
deep underground tunnels? tradition. Selling the wooden works of indicates, the mining activities became
art became an additional way to earn a a driven engine for the prosperity of the
The symbolism living for miners. The bobby lacing was Ore Mountains. The legend will continue
of the arched lighting a way for women to entertain themsel- to shine on the people, since the abun-
The local residents know the stories ves, while husbands were gone most of dant intangible and tangible heritage is
quite well and were more than happy to the time. In the middle lower part, the bringing beautiful memories and values
explain the tradition and the symbolism crossed hammer and chisel are the main to every one arriving at the Ore Moun-
of lighting. In the “Centre for Folk Art mining tools that workers used. tains.
of the Ore Mountains” in Schneeberg a In addition, the candles on the top part
variety of local crafts are displayed. The represent the torches and lamps that were n Anna Grigoreva & Jiayao Jiang

Dressing up for the last shift Miners’ parades in the Ore Mountains

the so-called Bergparaden – the miners’ ners workday before Christmas, which daily work. Marching with tools was and
parades – or the Mettenschicht – the last was historically celebrated by the miners still is nowadays a matter of pride and a
shift before Christmas –, events that hap- with a meal, songs and a sermon. The ear- way to value each profession involved in
pen annually in most towns of the region. liest mention of the Berghabit – the mi- the mining process. Wise and old people
Once you visit the Ore Mountains, you ners’ uniforms – and the miners’ parades also had their own place in the parades:
will notice the relevance of these textile was registered in the 17th century, while right at the back you would find the reti-
fragments of the past for the local com- first regulations on the miners’ uniforms red miners wearing black uniforms with
munities due to the constant visual refe- were stated in the beginning of the 18th lace collars and buttons decorated with
rences to these uniforms in various muse- century. The uniform consisted of black the traditional figures of a hammer and
ums, associations, and events. jackets, white trousers, and knee pads; a pick, symbolically “ending” the event.
If you are lucky enough to visit the lo- however, throughout the years the Berg- Nowadays the uniforms are worn in spe-
cality in the weeks that precede Christ- habit changed due to regulations around cific events and especially in the annual
mas – the period when the whole region the region, and it was abolished in 1869 parades – usually held in December –,
turns into a magical place –, you will with the change of the mining law. promoting the intangible symbols of the
probably be able to experience one of the As in many cultures around the world, miner’s life.
parades that happen in different towns symbolism is present in celebrations and But do not worry if you are not able to
of the Ore Mountains. The famous festivals, and the miners’ parades in the visit the region during Christmas time!
events gather thousands of people who Ore Mountain aren’t an exception. Vel- In Schneeberg, for example, you can also

I t is nothing new that the tangible lega-


cy of mining is visibly present even in
the remotest parts of the Ore Mountains.
are interested in preserving the local he-
ritage, the legacy of the mining system,
and honoring the shared past of the regi-
vet, buttons, colors, specific clothes, the
kind of hat, detailed decoration – in the
miners’ parades in the Ore Mountains
come across a big miners’ parade during
summer! How amazing is it to witness a
historical tradition while having an ice
However, this UNESCO World Heritage on and its connections. everything has a meaning or a reason. cream? If the idea sounds good to you,
site also draws heavily on the intangibili- However, historically speaking, the For example, workers in the cobalt blue start planning your visit to the lovely
ty of the traditions and commemorations miners’ parades have changed over the factory used to wear blue trousers in re- town for the 22nd of July, the annual ce-
associated with the physical spaces and centuries and, back in the day the purpo- ference to the pigment produced within lebrative date for the local miners of the
the memory of the mining boom peri- se was a bit different than in these days. their business, while laborers employed region – and be prepared to immerse in
od. And when it comes to the inherent In the past, this type of collective cerem- in functions revolving around the mi- the over 700 years old mining tradition
connection between tangible and intan- ony was linked to the visit of important ning system wear yellow trousers. But do of the Ore Mountains!
gible heritage, objects can be a very use- people to the mining region – such as the not forget: not only the colors and sym-
ful source. This is the case of the famous King or other powerful authorities. Also, bols were important in these events, but n Blanca Calvo Alonso
uniforms worn by miners’ associations in the Mettenschicht represents the final mi- also the presence of the tools used in the & Angelica Vedana
ore mountains - places, people, traditions 11
Life seen through magnificent mining folk art
E very living person on this planet at
some point of their life feels the need
to tell and retell stories, especially when
the rhythm of the Knappen anvils, as
the miners are called. As a result, the
folk art in this area reflects the lives of
carved from wood due to the lucrative
wood manufactory at the time, but there
are examples made from the other afore-
those stories are personal ones. Some the miners and the lives of their fami- mentioned materials. Artistically spea-
prefer to tell the tales of other people. lies. In fact, the miners themselves are king, the wooden figures and the ivory
Some people write, paint, photograph, the creators of this type of art through works make the most representative ex-
sing and the common man creates folk their handiworks, be it woodwork, metal amples of this “mining” activity. Each
art. Through his creations he expresses or ivory, in the form of small decorative piece is so rich in details that one can
himself, his thoughts, feelings, actions, figurines, ornaments, religious motifs, physically feel the love and the devotion
his way of living and captures the times to everyday items. of its creator. Beautifully done, they give
in which he lived. Often one can see all At first glance the artworks may seem the observer the impression that they
of the above on a single folk art creation. to have been a pastime. These finely will come to life at any moment, as in a
Traditional art is a man’s way of leaving made creations are far from that: the mi- scene from a Disney movie.
his mark on this world. ners made them in order to resell them The museum of mining folk art in
In the Ore Mountains, since the High as another source of income in times the little town of Schneeberg has exhi-
Middle Ages everything revolves around of financial crisis or unemployment. bited a large number of samples of this men are portrayed as miners in a typical housewives, farmers and craftsmen. The
mining. The Ore Mountains pulsate in The small handicrafts in most cases are applied traditional art. Made by high- setting of the region. Even the cave is not people who lived their whole lives in the
ly skilled hands, one notices that they a typical cave that comes to mind when shadows of the miners and their calling
speak volumes about their creators and thinking of the nativity scene, rather a but who apparently deserved to be repre-
their surroundings. Various elements traditional house from the area. sented on their creations.
from mining life are depicted, such as Though mining themes dominate, This stunning mining folk art, these
the natural landscape, settlements, un- looking deeper one can also detect that handcrafted creations are the true story-
derground mines, church and home in- these handiworks tell stories not only tellers of a miner’s life and of the world he
teriors, celebrations, festivities, religious of the miners, but also the “forgotten” has lived in, a time long since passed. They
values, funerals, families and familial people of the Ore Mountains. The people are a tangible witness of his thoughts, fee-
relations, community relations, working in the background who are not histori- lings, desires, devotion, and aspirations.
atmosphere, holiday and everyday clo- cally “on the map” when speaking about At the end one can only conclude that
thes, work attire, as well as minor daily this region, for as we know everything indeed everything in the Ore Mountains
activities. The miners as a central motif comes down to miners – the ones who revolved around the miners, but not eve-
and the “center” of the Ore Mountains were the support system of the miners rything of value lay in the mines.
can be seen even in the carved nativity and also accompanied the mining acti-
scenes where Joseph and the three wise vities with their “small” contributions as n Efrosinija Parevska

Digging deeper: The women of the Ore Mountains


A ll that glitters isn’t gold. It could be
silver, copper, tin, zinc or any other
metals found in the Ore Mountains. The
in the society of that time. Men look no-
ble and courageous – their images tend
to be more diverse, whereas the females
sloping streets and misty corners of An- appear more con-generic and indiscreet.
naberg paint a medieval picture of mi- The ages of the women are whimsi-
ners on their way to work. For centuries cally compared to birds and are defined
mining was a male-dominated industry; through relationships to the men, home
but what about the women of the Ore or children, whereas the men’s ages
Mountains? What was their legacy and are linked to rising ranks, bravery and
how did they contribute to society? wealth, and are represented as proud
In 2019, the transboundary German- animals.
Czech Mining Cultural Landscape Erz-
gebirge/Krušnohoří was inscribed on The business that boomed
UNESCO’s World Heritage List, attrac- Not all the women of the Ore Moun-
ting international attention and local tains kept quiet in a society where
pride. Banners hung in all corners of the their voices were minimised to those of
Saxon mining towns, proclaiming “Wir “housewives”. The Ore Mountain lace making cul- ment finally passed a law allowing wo-
sind Welterbe!” (We are World Herita- One woman took matters into her ture is still a very important part of the men to enter the mines for work, study
ge!). Mining has stimulated economic a painting on its rear by artist Hans Hes- own hands. Barbara Uthmann (1514– region‘s heritage, and classes are offered and research. Eleven years later the first
and cultural growth in the region since se. Illustrating the daily life of the regi- 1575) was the wife of a rich businessman to children and adults interested in lear- woman was deployed into the mines by
1168, when the first silver was found on, the painting shows men doing hard in Annaberg, who took on responsibility ning the craft. In the village of Frohnau, Bergakademie Freiberg, marking one of
near Freiberg. labour: separating ore and extracting for his business after he passed. Barbara one can simultaneously explore the mi- the biggest changes in the mining histo-
In this celebrated heritage, women minerals, transporting heavy carriages Uthmann is known for establishing the ning and lace making heritage. Here, an ry of Saxony.
seem almost invisible at first sight, with and building houses. However, there is bobbin lace making industry in the re- 18th century manor house once inhabited An exploration of Annaberg clearly
their contributions to both cultural and only one woman depicted in the altar gion. A true entrepreneur, she provided by the owners of the Frohnauer Ham- reveals the position held by women in
economic development not as widely painting, standing in front of a wooden steady income for women in the region, mer, a hammer mill across the street, old mining societies. Bound to tem-
discussed as their male counterparts. barrel, cleaning ore. which was crucial for them in order to has been converted into a museum. porary “above-ground” jobs, they
The town of Annaberg is a good place for Another element of the church are the provide for their families and for the Tours are available and guides demons- worked equally hard, polishing stones,
an introduction to the women of the mi- balustrades on either side of the arch economic development of the town. trate traditional lace making techniques counting freshly minted coins, or in
ning region, and digging deeper, we fit displaying gender normative iconogra- Barbara Uthmann met resistance from passed down through almost 500 years. the case of entrepreneurs like Barbara
together an interesting history. phy. The ten phases of life from birth authorities and other powerful busi- The ensemble interestingly highlights Uthmann, quietly contributing to the
to death are represented through the nessmen who were uncomfortable with the divided domains of men and women; town‘s economic and cultural growth.
A picture speaks a thousand words ages of men and women. Depicted with a woman taking this role in society, but on one side of the street is a museum, However, the output of the mines slow-
The uphill climb through Annaberg corresponding animal allegories, they her legacy is deeply intertwined with the where women’s lace making is demons- ly declined in the 1600 s and the mining
is refreshing, with a lovely reward at clearly define the gender roles expected region’s heritage. trated by professionals, and on the other society became an even more exclusive
the top – the alluring St. Annen Chur- side you can visit the beautifully preser- “elite brotherhood” of miners. Women
ch, dedicated to St. Anne, the patron of ved mill, where men smelted extracted were pushed towards “safer” jobs like
mining. The foundation stone for the metals in the old days. tanning and textiles. Despite the gradual
church was laid in 1499 under the gover- exclusion from mining jobs, women
nance of the first parish priest to serve Times are changing like Barbara Uthmann created their
the town, and its long late Gothic halls Eventually, after a prosperous history, own paths, improving the situation for
are home to many artistic treasures of the mines closed down permanently in themselves and the women that came
both religious and historic importance. 1968, though some are now used for re- after them.
Walking across the threshold, our eyes search purposes. In 2008, approximately
immediately fall on the three altars. To 800 years after the first mines were ope- n Iren Bagdasarian,
the left lies the miner’s altar, famous for ned in the region, the German govern- Wanda Marcussen & Lianne Oonwalla
12 off the beaten path
A stroll in Brittany’s hidden gem
ted its reconstruction. All the spaces re- banks, where a crown of trees partially
lating to the monastery’s life were arran- hides the sight from the river. It is not a
ged around the cloister and underwent a surprise that the monks settled here in
heavy refurbishment in the 17th century, this place where recollection and peace
from which only the refectory remains take all their meaning.
nowadays in its original medieval ap- Today, Lèhon has been able to com-
pearance. bine its ancient architecture with mo-
It was the monks and their patrons dernity. The spaces of the abbey, inclu-
who shaped the development of the vil- ding its cloister, host every year many
lage that remained for a long time as a exhibitions of painters and photogra-
commercial base in that part of the re- phers. The same atmosphere pervades
gion. St. Magloire Abbey is nowadays the cloister, with its stone walls and a se-
abandoned by the monks but all its quence of open arcs on each side, it is the
spaces, the cloister, the refectory and the beating heart of this wonderful corner of
small church are open to visitors. The paradise on Earth.
gardens on the two sides of the building
extend the abbey’s ground to the river- n Silvia Frattini

V isiting the beautiful region of Brit-


tany, in the furthest west corner
of northern France, most tourists limit
The village of Lèhon is a small entan-
glement of stone houses with their doors
and shutters colourfully painted in red,
visitors to rediscover the feudal castle.
The visiting tour brings you up the
hill through walkways and stairs to the
themselves to the better-known sights, blue and green, with flower pots at each open courtyard of the castle and the re-
such as Rennes, St. Malo and Dinan. window. If you happen to get to Lèhon on mains of the watchtowers, from which
But leaving these crowded cities behind, a sleepy autumn afternoon, the quietness on a clear day you can enjoy the sight of
you may be surprised by the smaller but of the place that pervades the place will Dinan’s castle.
beautiful places you will come across in accompany you in its discovery. The stone streets will lead you to a
the Breton countryside. The village was once protected by a flowery square where is situated St.
Just outside Dinan, in the north-east fortress built in the 12th century on a ro- Magloire Abbey with its small church.
of the region, a short walk on the green cky hilltop with a strategic view on the Founded in the middle of the 9th centu-
banks of the river Rance will lead you Rance’s valley, and its ruins are restored ry, this former Benedictine monastery
to the little village of Lèhon. The water and open to the public. Abandoned in was established as a high´ spiritual place,
stream will take you beyond a wide bight, the 15th century and converted in a stone and site of pilgrimage on the banks of
after which the stone roofs of mediaeval quarry, the conservation works started the Rance. Returning from Paris at the
buildings will appear in between the in 2004 focused on the preservation of beginning of the 12th century, after they
trees. Crossing the little stone bridge that the ruins in their contemporary configu- had fled the Scandinavian invasion two
connects the banks of the Rance you’ll ration, freeing them from the outgrown centuries earlier, the monks regained
believe you’ve fallen into a painting. vegetation and permitting citizens and possession of the abbey’s ruins and star-

The Ottoman tower-house of Rhodes


H ome to the Colossus, one of the se-
ven wonders of the ancient world,
the island of Rhodes is also famous for
came after the Knights is less known.
Do you happen to know who succeeded
them as overlord of this small Mediter-
Ottomans dotted Rhodes with beautiful
mosques and hamams that one can still
see while taking a stroll in the old town
The metallic rings on the interior
walls perplexed the architect in char-
ge of the restoration work taking place
lian state. The idea was to demolish it and
build houses for the Italian public ser-
vants who would serve on the island. The
having been the headquarters of the ranean island? In 1522, the Ottoman today. This article will take us outside at the Toptsubasi Manor. “Were these war put the plans on hold and when, af-
Medieval Knights of Saint John. Their Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent defea- the city walls in an adjacent area that used to keep the windows in place once ter peace was finally concluded, Rhodes
surviving fortifications encircling the ted the Knights and led his forces into once upon a time was full of gardens open?,” he asked Ms. Melike, the last te- was united with Greece, the Toptsubasi
old town are nowadays on the UNESCO the town of Rhodes. There started a new and orchards and a few Ottoman tower- nant of the Ottoman tower-house com- Complex passed over to the Greek state.
World Heritage List. Yet the period that era that was to last nearly 400 years. The houses. plex and descendant of the family that Years of disuse and neglect led the com-
once upon a time owned the land and its plex to a dilapidated state. Then in the
edifices. “No, Mr. Paris,” she responded. mid-1980s, the Municipality of Rhodes
“They were used to hang the hammock took the matter into its hands. For about
of the baby in a place where the breeze seven years, architects, engineers and
would keep the baby cool in the warm masons spent their days taking care of a
summer days.” little-known gem from Ottoman times.
You can still find these rings in one Nowadays the restored tower-house is
of the rooms of the second floor of the home to public and municipal services.
main building, the tall building that Thanks to this, anyone interested in the
towers over the orchard. An Austro- building may enter. Visitors will be mes-
Hungarian coin from 1816 was found merised by the high arch of the ground
built into the tower-house and Ms. Me- floor that smoothes out the austere li-
like who informed the architect that her nes of the ceiling. Unfortunately, after a
grandfather had been born in that house good period of serving as a coffee shop,
helped Mr. Paris date it to between 1816 the second-biggest building remains in-
and 1870. That is the closest we can get to accessible. But you cannot miss the pool
the construction year of the main tower in front of it where in the hot summer
while the smaller buildings of the com- days Ms. Melike would bathe with her
plex seem to antedate it. childhood friends.
Given that no other tower-houses sur- That was a long time ago… Would you
vive on Rhodes, we are lucky that the dive that deep in history and visit the
Toptsubasi Manor has made it to the Ottoman tower-house of Rhodes?
present. During the Second World War,
the complex was expropriated by the Ita- n Artemis Papandreou
overlooked 13
From just granaries to heritage: The hórreos
G ranaries are a common storage
space for communities since the
development of agriculture. These
they show us the way of life in the
Asturian countryside, they are part
of its landscape. These buildings are
restoration of the buildings is also
disappearing. This leaves these woo-
den buildings more vulnerable to the
buildings are necessary to keep the now present even out of the count- elements.
grain dry and away from animals du- ryside as decorations, sold in minia- But, several specialists, like Fern-
ring the whole year. But in the regi- ture in the souvenir shops. But this is ando Mora Rodríguez, and associa-
on of Asturias, in the north of Spain, not new, the hórreo has been a sym- tions like the “Asociación de Amigos
there is a special kind of granary that bol already for a couple of centuries. del Hórreo Asturiano” he belongs
outlines the landscape and repre- The hórreo represents not only to, in cooperation with the regional
sents more than storage space for the an important heritage construction government are creating a series of
communities. To know more about and part of the landscape but also measures and plans to avoid the fal-
them and what is happening with saves important immaterial herita- ling of all these buildings. These new
them in the region, we talked with ge related to it like its construction measures are based on three main
Fernando Mora Rodríguez, archaeo- techniques. These techniques and ideas: to select specimens, give pres-
logist and specialist in hórreos. the work related to them have been tige again and change their use.
These granaries, called hórreo (hor- identified and dated back to the 18th There is not a total number of hór-
ru in Asturian) and panera are raised century and for that time it is possi- reos and paneras in Asturias but the
granaries supported by four pillars ble to join the building with the con- estimation is around 25,000. With
made in stone or wood. The grana- structor. this amount, it is obvious that not all
ry itself is made from local wood, The situation with this heritage of them can be saved. For this rea-
mostly chestnut or oak, by carpent- is controversial right now. On one son, the specialists work on a docu-
ry, without any metal joints. To ac- hand, the use of the hórreos as gra- ment to try and save as many as they
cess them they have a stone stair. The naries is decaying as the Asturian can based on their importance, his-
hórreo has a square floor plan with a countryside is getting depopulated. tory, decorations, and construction
top decoration on its roof, while the With this situation, the caring and techniques.
panera has a rectangular floor plan Giving prestige again means to
and two top decorations on the roof. make people realise how important
The oldest documented hórreos are these buildings are for the regional
dated to the 16th century but seemed landscape and heritage, and ulti-
to be the last representation of an mately making sure that hórreos and
even older tradition as these const- paneras are included in the heritage
ructions are documented in books list and the heritage regulations.
from the 13th century. Changing the uses the specialists
These buildings are not only pre- are trying to find new uses for these
sent in Asturias, but it is in this regi- granaries, out of the farming ones,
on where they became an important that are respectful with their structu- and paneras are the pride of the regi- scape and how important it is to not
part of the landscape and the sym- res but that makes people interested on and its inhabitants. Now, they are let history slide through our fingers
bols of the region. Fernando Mora in them and their conservation. trying to get the fame and respect just because it is set in a small, rural
Rodríguez points out that these buil- From granaries standing next to they deserve in Spanish national he- village.
dings have become a symbol of the farms to pieces that can teach us ritage. They are landmarks that teach
region as they are not only granaries, about heritage. The Asturian hórreos us the importance of the rural land- n Aida Loy Madrid

The former summer camps


Forgotten monuments of Italian Rationalism
W hilst traveling along the Itali-
an coast, it is possible to find big
abandoned buildings shaped in bizarre
rounded by nature, far from unhealthy
cities. Over the decades, the colonies de-
veloped both from the point of view of
It was in the period between the two
World Wars, under the fascist dictator-
ship, that the summer camps and the
ways: the edifices of the former summer their social role and of their architectural whole Italian Rationalism movement
camps. Few know that some of these shapes as places dedicated to children’s found their maximum of expression. In
buildings could be considered one of the education and health in Italy. At the be- 1938, in Italy there were more than 4,800
highest expressions of Italian rationalism ginning of the 20th century, according to colonies, all aiming to draw children
in the panorama of the European ar- regional construction traditions, these to the Fascist doctrine. They were like
chitectural experimentation of the twen- places were organised in large pavilions, small barracks in which the architecture
ties and thirties. which progressively developed into mas- played the key role of translating the ide-
From the end of the 19th century the cli- terpieces of Rationalist architecture du- als of the regime into spaces and indelible
matic colonies phenomenon arose along ring the Fascist regime. They gradually forms in children’s memory. In this res-
the coasts – but also in the mountains. It became anonymous buildings without pect the spatiality of buildings assumed a ten jewels of pure Rationalism. Worthy ly waned due to the progressive disap-
was founded in order to host young boys any architectural quality and, by the six- major position in which different shapes of particular note among these, are the pearance of the premises they had been
and girls in a wholesome context where ties, they were completely overwhelmed must correspond to different functions. so-called “Talking Architectures”: big built for. The health emergency could be
they could sunbathe and enjoy sports sur- by the advent of mass tourism. A monumental entrance represents the monobloc buildings whose planimetry controlled by medicines, the education of
physical act of entering a community and recalls the mobility, machines as images the new generations had passed into the
the large ramps, facing the sea, show the of modernity with a strong and symbo- hands of families and schools and, above
little soldiers’ parades. It was the young lic value in the Futurist panorama. Some all, and the advent of mass-tourism led
architects who took advantage of the “Talking Architectures” represent planes millions of Italian families to spend their
opportunity to work on buildings that or ships and others a seaplane nestled on holidays at the seaside. Now, along the
have not been strongly typed, with a new the beach. coasts stand the skeletons of the buildings
freedom of expression and experimenta- The colonies’ buildings were designed that used to host the colonies, abandoned
tion, trying to insert Italian architecture to be seen from above, from an airplane, memories of a different era. The historical
into the Rationalist movement that was to reaffirm their relationship with Mo- and architectural value of these buildings
imposing itself in the rest of Europe. The dernism and the Fascist will to enhance has been recognised as expressions of the
intention was to purify the architecture the grandeur of architecture, symbolic uniqueness of Italian Rationalism and
of the aesthetic components, freeing the and expressive of the regime, compa- have become part of the safeguarded Ita-
forms from the decorative apparatus, red to the smallness of individual men. lian cultural heritage.
but this research would not reach a uni- Children lived in huge spaces which However, we are still far from under-
tary architectural style and their desire were shaped in excessive and metaphy- standing what role they could play in
for a new monumentality, the autarchic sical forms and where even daily activi- contemporary society. What will their
dream of a renewed Roman civilisa- ties took on emphatic rhythms. Starting future be?
tion, would not be realised. However, from the post-Second World War period
this experimentation left almost forgot- the phenomenon of summer camps slow- n Silvia Demetri
14 multilayered places
Berat: The city of one thousand and one windows
oasis of Byzantine culture. Buildings community in the city in the 16 th centu- siting the city for the first time, one can
from Roman times, and medieval chur- ry, then with no doubt we can consider instantly notice its panorama of “never
ches decorated with outstanding murals, Berat a small jewel on the great mosaic ending windows”. And this breathtaking
frescos and Byzantine iconography are of cultures and civilisations. landscape has remained so for centuries,
numerous. The most well-known sites of Many wonder how the nickname “the to bear witness for its history and heri-
Byzantine art inside the castle walls are city of one thousand and one windows” tage.
the Church of St. Mary of Vlachernae came to be. No other city can represent Albania
that lies in a perfect harmony with the What is certain is that no one has better than Berat, it has become now one
hill, the Church of the Holy Trinity with claimed to have counted all the win- of the important cultural centers of the
its imposing great architectural style dows. However, in Albanian language country. Throughout many historical
and the Iconographic Museum Onufri, this epithet is almost identical with transitions the city has strongly preser-
named after a famous medieval Albani- the other phrase: “one above another ved its values, thus becoming an examp-
an painter. windows”; it looks more like a game of le for many other cities in preserving
Although later in time, the Ottoman words. The reason behind the nickname their cultural heritage, and yet, at the
Empire has left visible traces throughout is probably due to the skyline landscape same time following the trend of moder-
the architecture of the town, in typical formed by the white houses of Berat and nisation and development.
houses and public buildings. The Man- their windows, which look like they are
galem quarter has perfectly preserved “climbing” on the city’s hills. When vi- n Ledio Karaj
this treasure, and is visible to this day.

T here are many places that often


come to our mind, because they
have left us great impressions or beauti-
area contains many Byzantine churches,
mainly from the 13th century, as well as
several mosques built under the Otto-
Near the street running down from the
fortress the mosque is located, built in
1827 in Ottoman style. It has a handso-
ful memories. The reasons for this can be man era from 15th to 19th century. Since me portico and an interesting external
many, but there is always a uniqueness 2005, the old town has been recognised decoration of flowers, plants and houses
which we keep as a vivid memory for a by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. painted on the surface. The panoramic
long time. Two wonderful elements of Albanian Ottoman architecture is in perfect har-
As for me – if I had to choose some cultural heritage are preserved in Barat: mony with the older part of the city.
of the most beautiful places in Albania, Ottoman architecture and Byzantine “It is a landmark, a shining white cliff
undoubtedly one of them would be the art. like a vault of heaven, upon which are si-
city of Berat. And for this choice “the The neighborhoods of the old town are tuated numerous towers, churches, bel-
city of one thousand and one windows” Mangalemi and Gorica, which are sepa- vederes and pavilions. A city surrounded
has many reasons to give… rated by the river Osum, and Kala – the by vineyards, and houses with beautiful
Located in central Albania, Berat re- castle – on the hill. Berat has been listed rose gardens.” (Evliya Çelebi – Ottoman
mains today the most iconic historic as one of the most beautiful towns in Eu- chronicler from 17 th century)
town in the country and the most visited rope, widely known as a great example of The special and unique architecture
by tourists. This city is a living testimony a well-preserved Ottoman town. It is one of this city experienced major influences
of the coexistence of various cultural and of the world’s oldest continuously inha- from several civilisations that amazin-
religious communities down the centu- bited cities, and a beautiful combination gly, have managed to coexist together for
ries. It features a castle, locally known as between Eastern and Western cultures, centuries.
Kala, most of which was built in the 13th between Christian and Islamic heritage. This is what makes Berat so unique
century, although its origins date back to Walking through the ancient stone among other historic towns. If we add
antiquity the 4 th century BC. The citadel alleys of the citadel we will see a real here the establishment of a small Jewish

Jewish heritage of Halberstadt: A story of memory and identity


new facilities for a Jewish school and an Walking through these unkempt cemete- the Jewish Enlightenment. The Acade-
old people’s home. The most important ries makes one wonder about the tragedy my preserves the Jewish heritage in the
activity was the purchasing of a large that the families of these people buried town and imparts this knowledge to the
patch of ground for a third cemetery “for in these locations had to endure. With visitors by organising city tours, semi-
eternity”. the help of Moses Mendelssohn Acade- nars and educational trips. One of its
But, with the Nazi’s power on the rise, my, the European Heritage Volunteers most interesting projects to visit is the
the situation changed dramatically. On has documented this heritage of memory Berend Lehmann Museum. The street
April, 12th, and November, 22nd, 1942, over the past three years. view doesn’t disclose that behind a house
around 400 Jews of Halberstadt were de- “The most important reason to preserve looking as a simple residential building
ported and murdered. them is to maintain the memory of Hal- the former synagogue was located. Some
berstadt as a multi-religious and multi- walls of the synagogue are preserved,
Jewish cemeteries cultural city and also the heritage of such and the building houses an exhibition on
Cemeteries come across as a heritage an important Jewish community in Eu- the history of Jews in Halberstadt and Ju-
of memory and can sometimes also be rope. To preserve the cemeteries helps to daism in Germany as well as an original
uncomfortable, pertaining to their con- maintain the memories of the Holocaust mikveh, a Jewish ritual bath. With traces
dition and history. The Jews in Halber- and illustrates how the European Jewish of what used to be, the structure has been
stadt were welcomed by the town and communities disappeared and how anti- adapted to the needs of today, yet giving

S ituated at the foot of the Harz Moun-


tains in the state of Saxony-Anhalt in
Germany, Halberstadt is a town full of
of Brandenburg-Prussia and the Elector
then allowed Jews to enter trade, “but-
cher according to their ways” and have
its people to an extent where leaving the
town wasn’t a question even with the rise
of the Nazi power. The three cemeteries
Semitic attitudes developed in Europe.”
Paula O‘Donohoe Villota, Coordinator
at European Heritage Volunteers
the visitor a peek into history.

Conclusion
religious architecture and timber const- a synagogue. Later, the community de- tell this story of hope and faith. The town of Halberstadt, its connec-
ruction. A medieval town with impres- veloped into the most important Jewish “As Pierre Nora said, cemeteries are Synagogue, tion to Jewish heritage and traces of built
sive structures, Halberstadt has much to settlement in Central Germany. Halber- great lieux de memoire, they are places mikveh and adaptive re-use heritage, leaves behind many questions.
offer to anyone who visits it. However, stadt also functioned as the seat of the of memory and it doesn‘t matter if they The Moses Mendelssohn Academy This town’s history is incomplete without
one of the lesser known aspects of the chief rabbinate overseeing the area up are Jewish, Christian or non-religious we is an important advocate of history of mentioning the town’s Jewish populati-
town is its Jewish heritage. to Minden and Hameln. In conjunction should care about them because at the end on. The subject though remains uncom-
with the ideas of the Jewish Enlighten- they are the most explicit example of the fortable. With respect to preservation
Jewish history in Halberstadt ment a process of Jewish acculturation evolution of the cities.” Paula O‘Donohoe and identity, one of the central questions
The first presence of Jews in Halber- into the non-Jewish society took place, Villota, Coordinator at European Herita- is “Should a heritage such as a cemetery,
stadt dates back to 1261. The bishops and Halberstadt became a place linking ge Volunteers which is unused and not maintained and
protected the Jews and they could live tradition and modernity. Each of the three cemeteries in Hal- which invokes uncomfortable feelings,
in the town after paying an annual fee. At the end of the 19th century, Halber- berstadt has its own feature which distin- be preserved?” Some may say yes, while
The Jewish quarter was located next to stadt was home to a Jewish population guishes it from the others. With elements others might deny but a visit to Halber-
the bishop’s residence and the Christians which seemed as if it would remain inde- from the then prevalent architecture, the stadt may give a clearer picture.
and Jews lived together. After the Thir- finitely. The Jewish community showed gravestones clearly depict the overtime
ty Years’ War, Halberstadt became part their attachment to the town by building change in ornamentation and material. n Meetali Gupta
at a second glance 15
Shop signs: Overseen traces of the past
D o you know what happens every
time when a foreign friend comes
to visit me in Barcelona? Instead of vi-
free, modern concepts. One of the ma-
jor representatives of the movement was
Antoni Gaudí who created the Sagrada
where rapid changes happen due to the
neighbourhood’s high level of multicul-
turalism.
destruction of countless shop signs; nu-
merous others are in poor condition.
But there are also projects to recover
hood are true examples of the impact of
the traditional skills and the artistic ex-
pressions of the past, they are part of the
siting the Sagrada Familia, we go to visit Familia, Casa Batlló and other buildings If you walk through this neighbour- these elements and to preserve them as urban landscape and of the identity of
the Raval neighbourhood. It is one of the iconic for Barcelona. However, we should hood, you will see many current premi- part of the historical memory of the city the community that lives there. This ur-
most multicultural neighbourhoods in not only think about the big monuments, ses with commercial signs more than and of the people they belong to. Since mo- ban landscape is part of our daily life, and
Europe and hides a lot of heritage within but also about the urban landscape in hundred years old. For example, in Car- dernism recovered crafts, some of these we embrace it along with our memories
itself. general or the smaller artistic elements men Street we can find signs of “Far- commercial signs are protected since and experiences.
One of the most important artistic mo- which are characteristic for the architec- macia Carmen” or “Bar Muy Buenas”. they stand out due to their artistic quality In Barcelona, the shop signs are
vements which left their traces in Barce- ture of that period. To the most eye-cat- They are of different materials, styles, showing Catalan and natural symbols. overshadowed by more iconic heritage
lona was modernism, also known as Art ching of these elements belong the com- and shapes – for example the pharma- Throughout the neighbourhood one can sites of the city, such as Sagrada Familia,
Noveau. It was developed at the end of mercial signs of the stores. cy uses mosaics and the bar glass and find various artistic techniques applied at Park Güell or La Pedrera. I encourage
the 19th century and the beginning of the Shop signs in Raval neighbourhood are wood. The shop signs give to the urban commercial signs. For example, the sign everyone to observe the small architecto-
20th century and played an important role testimonies of history and development landscape a unique significance related of “Bar muy buenas” was destroyed by nic details that are part of our daily life.
in all artistic disciplines – in architecture, during the 20th century. These elements to how they belong to the community the old owner, but the new owner deci- We should be aware that without these
literature, and music. Modernism wanted are an intrinsic part of the businesses to that lives there. ded to restore it. elements urban landscapes would not be
to recover traditional and artisanal tech- which they did belong. However, when Currently there are regulations to We live in a society of constant change unique nor represent the community that
niques linked to glass, ceramics, mosaic businesses close or change ownership protect this special heritage, but they and adaptation, but we can learn from lives there.
and other materials without renouncing there come up conflicts. This problem are not sufficient enough what is why the errors of the past and the present. The
industrial advances and apply them to heightens in the Raval neighbourhood changes of the businesses have caused commercial signs in Raval neighbour- n Raquel Castillo Sagredo

Giaveno: A chromatic transformation


C olour is one the important fragments
of the perception which helps to de-
fine a place by decoding it within our me-
Polytechnic University of Turin in 1978,
who also prepared environmental colour
plans for various other Italian and French
façades are hued in these three main
colours. Giaveno, located at the Salgone
Valley on the western border of the Met-
of Naples as a “porous city” that was later
over-used for capturing the contempor-
aneity of Italian cities for understanding
historic building façades. Although the
city’s overall image is changed via diffe-
rent colours, the city’s character as being
mory. It is an important way to create the cities. The Turin Colour Plan from 1978 ropolitan City of Turin, was one of those the contemporaneity. Another to use is in a state of “transience” is strengthened,
image or sense of “this” place or “that” was the first operative regulation in Ita- villages in Piemonte designated by Prof. Orhan Pamuk’s description of Istanbul as as if someone has come back to home
place through the colour-scape that is ly in which the yellow, red and blue were Giovanni Brino in 1987 in the means of hüzün – a melancholy that was based on for a while and has removed the covered
one of the stratifications of memory’s prescribed as emblematic colours to be colour uniformity based on his previous- memories regarding the city. sheets from some objects and furniture
landscape. applied on the façades that define the ly described approach. If one can analyse the city of Giaveno to live temporarily. There are some ang-
Colour planning is an urban design fundamental streets and squares of the The dominance of the yellowish hues through defining within a capsule term, les within the city which seem like livelier
tool which had its executive origin in the city. How these colours have become used in the city feels like looking at so- it might be the “transient” city which parts due to a different colour compositi-
historical trajectory of the city of Turin, symbolic for Turin is a long historical mething through a yellow filter, remin- perfectly shows the city’s temporariness on of the façades, on the other hand, the-
dating back to the 1850s. Yellowish and process that caused the emergence of ding of a resort. For example, a holiday characteristic. It is not a static city, but re are also streets that are still defined by
reddish hues had been dominantly used Turin’s yellow or Piemonte’s yellow. home that is mainly used for seasonal rather, it represents a conduit city that is this yellowish colour due to the building‘s
at the building façades within the historic It would be interesting to know the purposes, in which whole furniture or ob- generally used as an alternative location historical character, which gives impres-
centre of the Turin and its surrounding story behind Piemonte’s yellow and how jects are usually covered by white sheets in summertime or vocational periods by sions of those covered, non-used objects.
area, and these emblematic colours had it became the primary colour to memo- to prevent them from becoming dusty. the local people of Turin. This character Accordingly, the city represents one of
become the important characteristics rialise many cities in Piemonte, as well When someone comes to spend a certain of the city, being in a state of “transience”, the significant examples of chromatic
to describe the city’s overall image and as other cities in Italy and France. It was period, some of those white sheets are re- is seen from the yellowish filter of the transformation, exemplified through the
charisma. In fact, the yellow perceived in most probably derived from the land- moved from the objects which brings a façades which are reminiscent of the co- use of colour as a tool for place-making
Turin and its suburbs, known as Turin’s mark building of Turin that is Casa An- place to life for those periods. vered furniture in holiday homes to pro- and image-creation in the present, or as
yellow, later became fashionable for other tonelli designed by architect Antonelli in The concept of “transience” might be tect them from the dust. sense-defining to provide continuity bet-
places in Italy, including surrounding vil- the 1850s and its original façade’s colour interesting to describe these places; they Recently completed research, conduc- ween the past and contemporaneity.
lages in Piemonte region. using in a polychromatic manner yellow, are not stable, but rather they are places ted by Polytechnic University of Turin
The colour planning invented in Tu- reddish and blue hues. In Piemonte, we in transience as their users are in motion. and coordinated by Prof. Silvia Gron, n Gözde Yildiz
rin in the 19th century was subsequently might see many cities and villages in the- It is interesting to define a city or a place proposes new polychromatic alternatives
elaborated by Prof. Giovanni Brino from se colours because the historic building by using Benjamin Walter’s description in various colours and tones for those
16 european heritage times
E uropean Heritage Times is a di-
gital newspaper containing sto-
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Special focus is given to overlooked
and endangered heritage sites, as well
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In 2015, it started as a joint initia- All in all, European Heritage Times
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Heritage Times, and since 2019, it is heritage.
continued by European Heritage Vo- The authors contribute to Euro-
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plores cultural landscapes, industrial 2022 printed edition of European
heritage, and intangible heritage too. Heritage Times!

R OPEA
N ew authors join European Heri-
tage Times in an annual rhythm.
provides a space where the future authors
can exchange their backgrounds and
– in 2016 and 2017 – were held at the
Wieland Estate in Oßmannstedt near
EU
The topics addressed on each course
or project reflect the needs of the par-

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Applicants should have passion for motivation, get to know each other, and Weimar. This Baroque manor house, ticular heritage site and the local part-


writing and heritage-related topics and establish personal and professional rela- which is surrounded by a sprawling es- ners as well as the diversity of cultural
H E R I TA

E RS
shall commit to actively contributing tionships which enable them to actively tate, was home to Christoph Martin expressions in European heritage. They
to European Heritage Times for at least spread the message about European cul- Wieland, one of the leading figures of may focus on urgent interventions, the
one year. In result, each year a group of tural heritage upon returning home. the Enlightenment and an early advoca- revitalisation of abandoned heritage si-

TE
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E•
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Heritage Times. thors deeper insight to a particular regi- For the third cycle in 2018, the semi- place in historic parks or in the context
The selected applicants are invited to a on and its cultural heritage. As part of nar started at Wieland Estate before the of cultural landscapes are integrating
week-long Introduction and Training Se-
minar. There, knowledge about different
aspects of heritage, journalistic issues,
the training process, the future authors
create teams of two to three and write
articles about the heritage-related as-
authors joined the European Cultural
Heritage Summit, which was held in
Berlin for the occasion of the European
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and European Heritage Times itself is pects of the particular region. Year of Cultural Heritage 2018. heritage for over 25 years. Its main objec- these topics of current urgency. Besi-
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the city of Freiberg as it coincided reaches out to heritage sites which are in there are plenty of others – research,
with the inscription of the Erzgebir- need of support or visibility, while at the documentation, interpretation, archival
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