LECTURE 8

Colour Cosmetics
1-COLOURED
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PRODUCTS
 COLOUR COSMETICS
• The primary reason of pigmented product
purchase is for the colour it is imparting.
• When speaking about coloured cosmetics, it
is fashion first and science second.
 A- Lip sticks
• Lipsticks, as the name, are moulded in the form of a crayon.
• Lipsticks are mixture of waxes, low oil and high pigment
formulation generally results in a long wearing product
that gives a varying degree of gloss and textures.
• Varying the ratio of these ingredients determines the final
product characteristics.
• A high wax, low pigment, low oil formulation results in
long wearing products with fixed gloss and texture.
• A lower wax, high oil base is more smoothly, feels more
creamy, has great shine but will not wear as long.
The basic requirements of a good lipstick are as
below
1. Shiny and smooth appearance
2. Non-drying
3. Non-gritty
4. Easily applicable
5. Good odor and flavor
6. Free from sweating
7. Suitable firmness
Among ingredients of lipsticks products
Waxes: e.g. canedelilla wax, multiwax ML455
(microcrystalline wax)
Oils: Castor oil is the backbone of most lipstick preparations.
It is an excellent pigments dispersing aid and imparts super
creamy, moisturizing feel on the lips.
Pigments: In lipsticks, colour concentrations ranging
between 2 and 10%. Bismuth oxychloride and titanium
dioxide are used to impart a pleasant look .
Fragrance: Fragrance / flavour is often added , usually at less
than 1%, to improve the taste of the product on the lips.
 Manufacture:
Lipsticks are generally manufactured in four
stages
1-Pigment milling: Milling is required to break up
pigment agglomeration rather than to reduce
particle size by three-roll mill.
2-Combination of the pigment phase into the base.
3-Molding
4-Flaming
 Raw materials:

The main raw materials required in the manufacture

of lipsticks are :
1. Color (Dyes and Pigments)
2. Bases (Oils and Waxes).
3. Perfumes
 1- Colour
• Color is the most important ingredient of a
lipstick. It may contain dyes and/or pigments
Bromo-acid and related dyes are mostly used
in the formulation of lipstick.
• To brighten the top of the lipstick Titanium
dioxide is the most effective material available
 2. Bases
Oils
Various types of oils may be used in the formulation of lipsticks
but the basic requirements of oil are:
i) Greater solvent power for staining dye.
ii) Lower viscosity
iii) Less odor
iv) Greater stability
Vegetable oils and mineral oils
Lanolin is very useful in assisting dispersion of the colors.
Waxes
Their function is to strengthen the stick and to raise the
melting point.
Beeswax .
Carnauba wax .
Candillila wax.
hydrocarbon waxes (m.p 60 to 80°C).
 3. Perfumes
Perfumes of the fruit flavor type have been advocated as
desirable since they are to be used on the lips. The perfume
is used up to 1% and should be non-toxic.
4-Additives and Preservatives
Propyl-P-hydroxybenzoate (l% of the formulation) can
be used as preservative
To prevent rancidity developing on storage, 0.1% of the
following antioxidant mixture should be incorporated.
• Propyl Gallate 6 part
• Citric Acid 4 part
• Butylated Hydroxy Anisole 20 part
• Propylene Glycol 70 part
 Liquid Lipstick
• These are solutions of ethyl- cellulose and a
plasticizer in ethyl alcohol and isopropyl
alcohol to which colors are added.
 B- Lip glosses
Lip gloss also consists of a mixture of waxes,
pigments and oils.
The major difference is that gloss and
transparent coverage of the lips are the key
properties required and, consequently the oil to
wax ratio is higher and the pigment level is
lower.
Lip glosses can be marketed in stick form but
the majority of the products in this category are
semisolid and dispensed from tubes with a
sponge applicator.
 C- Lipliners
As with the other lip products, lipliners are
mixture of waxes, oils and pigments. Emolliency is
not the necessity as with lipsticks and lip glosses
but pigment cover is essential. For this reason, the
wax/pigment level is elevated and the oil level is
lowered .
The majority of liners are sold in pencil form. Total
sales in the US and Europe are estimated to be
around 1.5 billion dollars per year.