The Douro River

The Douro, called Duero in Spain, is one of the mightiest rivers in Europe and has been historically significant
for centuries.
Wine from grapes grown in the Douro Valley has been shipped downriver to Porto since the 13 th century, and in
1756, the Douro Valley became the world’s first legally defined wine-growing region. Today, that region is a
UNESCO World Heritage site, as is the historic center of Porto itself where the river ends at the Atlantic Ocean.
It is an impressive spectacle of nature to discover these majestic and humbling vineyards on their overpowering
terraces and to enjoy the peace and quiet of the region that has virtually been left untouched by tourism for
many decades. The river valley reveals its greatest splendor when you travel by boat. It is also a true adventure
to take an upriver train from Porto and to appreciate the achievements of railroad pioneers: In 1845, the
journey from Porto to Barca d'Alva took approximately 2 weeks. Today, the train ride is some 5h and takes you
mostly along the river banks.
Douro Valley Map
The Douro River begins in Spain, in the mountains, and flows 557 miles (897 km) through the Iberian Peninsula.
For 112 km it represents the border between Spain and Portugal. The river continues another 120 km to Porto,
where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean.
The wine-growing region extends 62 miles (100 km), where vineyards appear along the river banks.
A total of 40,000 hectares of vineyards are planted along the steep banks of the Douro and its tributary rivers
between Barca d'Alva and Régua, where the influence of the Atlantic Ocean changes the climate and makes it
inhospitable for vineyards.
The Soil
Most of northern Portugal is unsuitable for agriculture because of underlying granite and thin topsoil.
But from Barca d’Alva to Régua, the Douro River cuts through mountains of schist, a mineral rich, slate-like
rock, splitting it into pieces and allowing moisture and plant roots in.
Thus these soil conditions form the natural borders of viticulture in the Douro region: vines thrive as far as the
slate reaches. Slate is hard but brittle and breaks down into ubiquitous yellowish-brown dust in the Douro
region and becomes a souvenir on the shoes and car of every visitor to the winegrowing region.
The total area of schist soil in the region is 965 square miles (250.000 hectares), of which 154 square miles
(40.000 hectares) are now used for viticulture. Approximately half of these cultivation sites are located on
slopes with inclines of more than 30%. Those steep and stony slopes are difficult and costly to work.
Climate
More than 20 mountains ranges protect the winegrowing hills from cool and moist weather:
In the summertime one frequently leaves the city of Porto in overcast, foggy and moist weather only to
encounter the wonderful vista of the peaceful valley in glowing sunshine after coming past the many curves of
the Serra do Marão. The heat in the Douro region is often insufferable and can reach temperatures between
40-50ºC in the daytime, which is usually 15-25ºC above the temperature of the relatively cool Porto. The
highest temperatures are reached in the vicinity of the river and in the adjoining valleys on the right-hand bank.
In contrast, winter temperatures in the Douro region can be quite low (around 0ºC) and in some exceptional
years there will even be snowfall.
Romans
Romans brought viticulture to the entire Iberian Peninsula, when they came in 218 BC. For the next 600 years
of Roman occupation, the land was farmed for olive oil and wine, as well as other crops.
The mosaic shows people celebrating and drinking.
Cistercian
In Medieval times from the mid-12th century, Cistercian monks had an important influence on winemaking in
the region, retaining and preserving this knowledge in their monasteries (Salzedas, São João de Tarouca and
São Pedro das Águias).
The English Trade
Wine from vineyards along the Douro River in the north of Portugal has been produced for thousands of years.
In the 13th century, Douro wine was shipped down the Douro River to the coastal town of Porto and exported
to many European countries.
In 1660, The English discovered Douro wine when political problems arose between France and England.
Bordeaux wine, the wine of choice of the well-bred Englishman, became virtually impossible to obtain during
this period. English merchants living in Portugal saw this opportunity and successfully offered up the rich wines
from the Douro as a substitute.
To protect the wine during the long sea voyage, the Portuguese began fortifying some of their wine with a
distilled liquor: Aguardente (literally, “burning water”). The wine was fortified prior to shipment with the
addition of this brandy (alcohol content: 77%), which increased its strength (boosted the alcoholic content) and
prevented it from spoiling. [70% Douro Wine + 30% Aguardente = Port Wine]
By the 17th century over a million cases reached Porto each year. In 1670, Samuel Johnston claimed that
“Claret is for boys, Port is for men.”
In 1689, Porto became the favorite wine of the Whig party, and was used to toast William and Mary at their
coronation.
World’s First Wine Appellation
On the 10th September 1756, The Douro Wine Company (Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto
Douro) was founded by Royal Charter of the King D. José I, under the auspices of his Prime Minister, Marquês
de Pombal. Recognizing the need to protect Portuguese wine growers from British domination, it was a
government oversight organization established to regulate the trade and production of Port Wine. Douro
Valley became the world’s first regional wine appellation.
Official duties of the company:

 Delineation of the boundaries of the Douro wine region

 Regulate all exports of Port
 Set production quantities limits
 Fix maximum and minimum prices for grapes
 Serve as sole arbitrator in any disputes between vine growers and Port shippers
In 1761, the company was further granted a monopoly on the sale of Aguardente which was used in the
fortification process of Port winemaking.
Nowadays (since 2003), the Port and Douro Wines Institute (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto - IVDP) is
the official regulating body of Port wine and Douro table wine production.
IVDP mission is to promote the control of the quality of Port Wines, regulating the production process, as well
as, the protection and defense of the Douro and Porto DO (denominations of origin) and Duriense IG
(geographical indication).
Cachão De Valeira - Natural Impediment to Navigation
By the end of the 18th century, viticulture did not extend further upriver than the Cachấo de Valeira. This large
rock obstructed riparian navigation and thus the relatively quick transport of casks of wine. It took 12 years of
construction work to make this section of the river navigable for the 1 st time. As a consequence, viticulture
became economically feasible in the early 19 th century in the region of the Upper Douro Valley (Douro
Superior).
First Map of The Douro River
In 1840, Joseph James Forrester, who worked for an English wine-shipping firm, created the first detailed map
of the Douro (Map of the Wine District of the Alto-Douro), surveying the river from a Rabelo boat.
He also completed a second map (Douro Português e País Adjacente), plus articles on vine disease (Memória
sobre o Curativo da Moléstia nas Videiras), olive oil manufacturing and an anonymous criticism of Portuguese
export restrictions, which he claimed depressed the wine industry (controversial views expressed in " Uma
Palavra de Verdade sobre o Vinho do Porto").
For his contribution to the navigability of the river, he received numerous awards. He was made a baron by the
king of Portugal D. Fernando, and was dubbed “Protector of the Douro”.
Ironically he met an untimely end on that very same river when his boat capsized in the Cachão da Valeira, in
1861.
Phylloxera Devastates Douro
In the second half of the 19th century, viticulture in the Douro region was affected by large natural disasters.
Phylloxera, a sap-sucking insect, infested vineyards across Europe. This infestation, combined with mildew and
fungi attacks, destroyed nearly 65% of Douro vineyards, resulting in many winegrowers selling their lands
cheaply.
As a result, there was a consolidation of Quintas, and many of them were acquired by Dona Antónia Ferreira,
one of the most prominent figures in the history of viticulture in the Douro region.
She apparently had a very good sense of later developments, was a skilled businesswoman and purchased
many vineyards, some even in completely inaccessible areas (Quinta do Vale Meấo in Douro Superior).
When she died in 1890, she had amassed over 30 Quintas, which she left to her family Os Ferreira.
Shippers vs Growers
Until 1870, there had been many so-called "Quinta wines," i.e. wines that were produced and marketed by
individual winegrowers.
Winegrowers along the Douro suffered further economically when shippers in Porto started to develop their
own brands, blending various wines, fermenting them in their own cellars, and marketing them worldwide.
Shippers, who had established themselves in Porto and primarily exported Quinta wines, increasingly replaced
these vintners, in order to offer their customers Port Wine of consistent quality and to become independent of
the unpredictability of nature and winegrowers.
This separation of production (vineyards in the Douro region) and maturing / marketing (trade companies in
Vila Nova de Gaia) finally went so far that even a law was passed stipulating that Port Wine exports could only
be carried out from Vila Nova de Gaia (across from Porto). This monopoly remained until 1986, when Portugal
joined the European Union and its abolishment led to a true revolution in wine growing in the Douro region.

EU Law Aids Growers

Law of May 8, 1986: decreed that wine producers in the Douro region were entitled to export their products
independently, as long as they met specific production volumes and inventory.
The producers who previously only delivered grapes are now producing wine on their own and are gathering
more experience with the vinification and cultivation. They increasingly understand how to make the best of
the soil and the typical characteristics of their farms and are gaining more self-esteem. One essential advantage
is that the producers work together cooperatively and have become aware of the necessity to market their
excellent wines jointly in order to position the Douro region appropriately in the market. The fact that the
original grape varieties continue to be grown in the Douro region and have not been replaced by international
vines is an invaluable advantage. Together with the outstanding geological and climatic conditions this warrants
the independent and unmistakable character of the Douro wines.
However, some limiting conditions continue to exist. Vineyards must have at least 150,000 bottles and sales
inventory for three years in store. In addition, the sales may only involve bottles and not casks. The new
ordinance initially only benefited the shippers who already owned Quintas in the Douro region and now were
able to market independent brands of Single-Quinta wines.
Nevertheless, quite a number of producers in the Douro region have since become independent. The
production of red table wine has increased immensely! In fact, new and interesting wines are introduced every
year, making the Douro Valley one of the most interesting winegrowing regions in Europe.

THREE DOURO WINE REGIONS

The Douro wine-growing region today contains three sub regions (250.000 hectares):
Baixo Corgo - the smallest and farthest west, is where Douro winegrowing began. This area is the historic origin
of viticulture. Grapes here are used mainly for inexpensive ruby and tawny ports.
Cima Corgo - is the heartland of (port) winegrowing. Boasts the best-known names and brands, with many of
the most beautiful Quintas. This zone’s grapes are higher quality, and used for vintage and Late Bottled Vintage
Ports.
Douro Superior - near the Spanish border. It is flat and is the warmest, driest region. Only a small portion (8,000
of 110,000 hectares) is used to viticulture.
There are a total of 33,000 winegrowers in the Douro region. 80% own less than 0.5 hectares.
Quinta Classification (Vineyard Estates)
Quintas today in the Douro Valley are classified according to vineyard’s physical characteristics. It is the land
itself that receives ratings based on:

 Age and density of the vines

 Direction the slope faces
 Soil content (granite and schist content of the soil)
 Grape varieties planted
 Location of the vineyard
 Altitude, microclimate
 Vine productivity and vineyard maintenance
Vineyards that have favorable attributes in a particular category (such as being planted with an optimal low
density of vines) are award points while negative attribute (such as having too high of a vine density) receive
point deduction.
The classification system is run by the Port and Douro Wines Institute (IVDP), and ensures appropriate land
values are applied to the Quintas and establishes how intensely the land can be farmed.
Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC)
The DOC is a classification system for the best-quality wines in Portugal. It covers 14 different regions in
Portugal and provides rules for the types of grape grown, methods of production, and yield within each area.
The regulations aim to maintain wine quality levels from particular regions, and producers submit wine samples
to ensure compliance to DOC standards.
Indicação de Proveniencia Regulamentada (IPRs) - Areas in the process of becoming DOCs
Grape Varietals
More than 100 grape varieties are approved for port production but only 5 are widely used. Touriga Nacional is
considered the most desirable, but it is difficult to grow with small yields. Touriga Franca is the most widely
planted.
Types of Port
Although port-style wines are made across the globe, only fortified wine from the Douro Valley can legally be
called Port Wine (Vinho do Porto). This sweet and strong wine (alcohol content: 18 – 22%) is served as a dessert
wine and as a starter (for aperitifs before meal). It can also be used to make cocktails (Porto Tónico, Sangria).