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Stohr, Anthony
On our return home, we bent our course a little to the northward that we
might visit the falls of the Ikopa. These falls are not only very striking in
themselves, but the barrier reef over which the river leaps occupies a most
important position in the economy of the province. The sedimentary clay of
Madagascar yields so readily to the action of water, and is so speedily
scored into gullies and ravines, that if it had nothing to stay its course,
broad plains would be impossible; only long and narrow rice cultivation
would be practicable. The truth of this we have seen again and again in the
scored and riven districts of Menabe and Ankay, where it is difficult to find
level ground. On the western side of Imerina, at the point to which the line
of its drainage by the Ikopa tends, there is in God’s good providence a
remarkable reef of hard gneiss rocks. This reef retains the waters of the
river at a certain fixed height. Age has passed after age, generation after
generation: but the waters remain. The clay hills of Imerina have been
melting away; but the silt at their feet, and the rich soil that has been
formed, have only found a more perfect level. They cannot be wasted and
washed away, over the stern barrier which retains the waters: and so the
plain of Imerina, twelve hundred square miles in size, has only grown
richer, as its swamps were cleared of reeds, and has become more fit to feed
the multitudes of people that cluster in the hundreds of villages which stud
its fertile bosom. A similar reef of rocks at Sinjoarivo retains the waters of
the Onibe in the Ankisitra plain: and yet another, the winding stream of the
Mánantánana, which waters though imperfectly the broad basin of
Ambohimandroso. It is due entirely to these rocky barriers that this rich silt
and the fertilising streams, which support a million lives have found a
secure resting-place, four thousand feet above the sea.
The Fárahántsana, or reef of the Ikopa, lies at a point, a few miles north-
west of Ambohimanoa and immediately south of Vonizongo. We struck the
river a little above the reef, where it bends round to the north; and we
clambered over the rocks beyond, until we stood on a projection of the
bank, opposite to the falls. The reef is two hundred yards in length; and the
rocks are piled on one another in a solid mass, while hundreds more lie
struggling in the waters in the bed below. The Fárahántsana is the second
fall; there being a smaller fall with numerous rapids half a mile above. In
the chief fall there are two passages for the water, and the height of the fall
is fifty feet. Once over they boil and foam and hurry onward, taking a
second leap a little below, and foaming over great boulders rush down the
rocky ravine toward the sea. The scene is in many ways one of great beauty.
I was glad to secure two photographs of it, the one facing the fall, the other
looking down the ravine.
After examining and enjoying the scene, we went to tiffin in what
appeared to be a pretty looking cottage, on one of the islands, and
embowered in trees. It proved to be a Malagasy house of the usual order,
dirty, disorderly, with a clean mat or two vainly endeavouring to hide what
was beneath. Of course while we rested the inevitable chickens would come
between our feet, and carry away everything that their hungry little beaks
could grasp. The next day we returned to the Capital: having made large
additions to our knowledge of the details of Imerina geography, during this
little journey of four days.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SIHANAKA PROVINCE AND PEOPLE.
Special reason for a visit to this Province—Crossing the Granite Moors—Basin of the Mananára—
Anjozorobe and its People—Spend Sunday with them—“The Gate of Rock”—The Wilderness
of Ankay—Capital of the Sihanaka, its Governor and People—Christian work and the Native
Pastor—Tour round the District—Ambohidehilahy—Ambodinónoka—Petulance of our
Bearers—The great Swamp and its Reeds—Ambohitromby—Reception at Ambohipeno—
Amparafaravola and its kind Governor—A Volcanic Hill—Ambohijanahary—Ambohitsara—
Enquiries about the Gun—The Alaotra Lake and the Scenery around it—Marosalázana and its
bright Scholars—Memorials of the Dead—Whence came the Sihanaka People—How they
became Christians—What the Gospel is doing for them—Form, Extent and Population of the
District.
CHAPTER VIII.