BGMEA University

of
Fashion &Technology

Lecture On
Styles of Printing

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Apparel Manufacture and Technology (AMT)
 PRINTING

Whole printing process are done

by two ways
1.Style of printing
2.Method of Printing
 DEFINITION OF STYLE OF PRINTING
Style of printing are those process where we
are not use machinery .Printed effect is
produced by using only chemicals.

DEFINITION OF METHOD OF PRINTING

Method of printing are those process where we are use
machinery and chemical to create printing effect.
Styles For Textile Printing

1. Direct style 7. Foil printing

2. Resist style 8. Flock style printing

3. Discharge style 9. Glitter printing

4. Rubber print style 10. Emboss printing

11. High density printing
5. Plastisol printing
12. Crack printing
6. Process printing
 Direct Style
• It is the most common approach to apply a colour pattern
on fabric.
• It can be done on white or a coloured fabric.
• If done on coloured fabric, it is known as overprinting.
• The desired pattern is produced by imprinting dye on the
fabric in a paste form.
• To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to
a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it.
• Earlier corn starch was preferred as a thickening agent for
cotton printing.
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• Nowadays gums or alginates

derived from seaweed are
preferred because they are
easier to wash out, do not
themselves absorb any colour
and allow better penetration
of colour.
• Most pigment printing is done
without thickeners as the
mixing up of resins, solvents
and water itself produces
thickening.
RESIST PRINTING

• In this technique, a resist paste is imprinted on the fabric and

then it is dyed.
• The dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the
resist paste.
• After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on
a dark background.
DISCHARGE PRINTING

• In this approach, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is

printed with a chemical that destroys the colour in the
designed areas.
• Sometimes, the base colour is removed and another colour is
printed in its place.
• The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed.
• This approach is on decline these days.
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ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES OF DISCHARGE PRINTING

Advantages
1. It enables light, brighter colors to be
obtained on a dark ground.
2. Very sharp features like fine outlines,
dots, raster etc., can be produced with
total clarity.
3. Printing of white pattern on colored
ground (In case of direct style) is avoided
by discharge printing.
4. The effect, clarity, distinction, richness
and aesthetic appeal obtained add value
for discharge printing
Disadvantages
1. It is an expensive process. Two stage
application involved in dyeing or padding
and discharge printing.
2. Limited choice of ground and motif
colors.
3. Requires rigid process care that any
default will lead to damages.
RUBBER PRINTING
A very common and versatile material that is used to print to garment
due to its ability to adhere well to fabric. It can apply to most fabric
materials in light or dark colours. The texture feels thick and tensile. A
special rubber formulation has to be made in order to apply this print to
elastic material.
RUBBER PRINTING PROCESS

Table preparation
↓
Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Rubber printing paste apply with the
help of screen
↓
Curing at 450ºc (Belt speed 5 m/min)
↓
Delivery
PLASTISOL PRINTING
Plastisol is commonly used as a textile ink
PLASTISOL PRINTING
for screen-printing and as a coating.
PROCESS
Plastisol inks are recommended for printing
Printing paste preparation
on colored fabric and can retain a bright
↓
image. Most plastisols need about 450
Table preparation
degrees Celsius for full curing.
↓
Fabric plaited on the table
↓
High-density paste apply by
screen
↓
Curing at 160ºc (belt speed
3m/min)
↓
Delivery
PROCESS PRINTING
Process color printing, is known at four-color PROCESS PRINTING
process printing, is a method that FLOW
reproduces finished full-color artwork and Paste preparation
photographs. The three primary colors used ↓
are cyan (process blue), magenta (process Table preparation
red), and yellow. These inks are translucent ↓
and are used to simulate different colors. Fabric plaited on the
The "K" in CMYK is black. Black ink is used table
to create fine detail and strong shadows. ↓
Printing paste is applied
through 4 different
screens on the fabric
↓
Curing at 450ºc (belt
speed 5m/min)
↓
Delivery
FOIL PRINTING
Foil printing is a sublimation transfer Foil printing flow chart
printing process. Foil printing is done by Fabric plaited on the table
the help of paper. Foil paper is solid color ↓
which is made by buyer requirement. Foil gun / Foil paste (Gum)apply
by screen
Printing is done in high temperature and
↓
pressure. By this printing process Dry slightly in air temp / Hand
man-made and natural both fabric types dryer
can be print. ↓
Apply foil paper on the fabric
↓
Heat apply by heat press m/c
150 ºc for 5 sec)
↓
Cooling for 4 sec
↓
Foil paper removed by hand
↓
Delivery
FLOCK PRINTING
Flock printing flow chart
Flock printing is done by depositing various Fabric plaited on the table
flocks on the surface of the fabric. Flocks ↓
means small finely cut natural or synthetic Apply flock paste with the help
fibers. This flocks are applied on an adhesive of screen
coated surface for impart a decorative or ↓
functional characteristics to the surface of the Flock powder apply with the
fabric. help of flock gun
↓
Manually dry by hanging for
30min
↓
Curing at 180ºc (belt speed 3
m/min)
↓
Delivery
↓
Brushing
↓
Delivery
GLITTER PRINTING
Glitter paste preparation
Glitter is a transfer printing process. After
↓
pre-treatment of the fabric, printing
Table preparation
operation is done on the table. Printing
↓
glitter paste is applied on the fabric by the
Fabric plaited on the table
screen printing process. After printing,
↓
curing is done at high temperature. Curing
Glitter paste apply by
should be done slowly otherwise it may
screen
affect the printing performance.
↓
Hanging for 15min f or
dry
Curing at 160º c (belt
speed 3m/min)
↓
Delivery
EMBOSS PRINTING
Process flow of puff printing
Emboss printing is not as available as
pigment printing, foil printing, flock
Paste preparation with puff
printing or any others dyes printing. It is chemical
specially done for logo making or others ↓
decorative purpose. In this printing Table preparation
process, printing is done by embossing ↓
the printing paste on the textile materials. Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Apply printing paste by screen
(3times)
↓
Hanging f or 15min
↓
Curing at 450 ºc (belt speed
3m/min)
↓
Delivery
CRACK PRINTING
Crack printing is a printing method to Print paste preparation
produce attractive design on the fabric with cracking chemical
surface. Here rubber is used as the printing ↓
paste. It is near similar as rubber printing Crack paste/clear apply
process but additional crack paste is used with the help of screen
before applying rubber printing paste by the ↓
screen printer on the cotton fabric. Dry in air temp or hand
dryer m/c (slight)
↓
Printing paste apply with
the help of screen
↓
Curing at 450ºc (belt
speed 2 m/min)
↓
Delivery
HIGH DENSITY PRINTING
High density printing is done by more High density printing flow
number of stroke to make the printed area Paste preparation
thicker during printing. High density printing ↓
may be two types: Rubber base high Table preparation
density & Plastisol base high density. ↓
Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Printing paste is applied
through screen on the
fabric & stroke repeatedly
till the design is produced
↓
Curing at 450ºc (belt speed
5m/min)
↓
Delivery