1
Welcome to Comet the Unicorn’s
crochet-along! I’m so happy to have you
on board!
This booklet is a Prelude to the pattern
which will be released as a four part
series over 4 weeks starting on 21 st
November, 2018. To get the next part in
the series, simply return to the same
platform where you purchased this
booklet and refresh your pattern library
to view each new part as it is released, or
check your email for updates.
This booklet will help you prepare your
skills and supplies so that when the
crochet-along (CAL) starts, we’ll all be set
to start together!
Here you will find all the information you
need to make Comet, including yarn
quantities and all other materials, tools
and notions required, plus help with
choosing different supplies to the ones
suggested. There are also important
additional notes to prepare you for this
magical adventure so that you don’t get
lost along the way!
I highly encourage you to read everything
carefully - I promise it’ll be worth it!
Once the CAL starts, remember to refer
back to this booklet if you happen to get
stuck or need to recap.
2
Hello! I’m Jessie, the designer of Projectarian’s
menagerie of fanciful beasts, and Comet’s
mum.

I designed her in response to the popular

demand for my Nomadic Galaxy Pony design.

Comet’s pattern and the decision to release it

have been an emotional journey for me and I
was reluctant to give her up to the world for a
long time. Please take care of her, help protect
her design from copyright infringement, and
I’d be very grateful if you attribute your own
photos of Comet with Projectarian as the
designer. Growing my brand helps me bring
you more of this good stuff!

Above all, please enjoy her! I hope she brings

as much day-dreamy, whimsical magic to your
life as she has to mine. I’m so happy she has
led you to this adventure with me!

3
Written in US terminology
Size: 40cm tall
Difficulty: Intermediate
Yarn weight 1: double knit (Light Worsted/
8ply/ 11wpi)
Yarn weight 2: 4 ply (Fingering/ 14wpi)
There are clear instructions for every little part
of Comet, as well as additional tips to aid and
guide you every step of the way. Sewing and
assembly directions are provided in the last
part of this CAL. If you stuff or sew any parts
before directed, it may result in your unicorn
not being able to stand, or features not fitting
correctly.
Body Colour: 204g/425m
Hair Colour: 158g/329m
Ear Colour: 4.5g/12m
Horn Colour: 2.9g/7.5m
Eye Black: 0.97g/4m
Eye White: 0.57g/2.4m
Eye Colour, Dark: 0.14g/0.6m
Eye Colour, Medium: 0.11g/0.6m
Eye Colour, Light: 0.21g/1m
Body Colour: Miss La Motte, DK merino -
Pinstripe
Hair Colour: Miss La Motte, DK merino –
Rainbow Fade
Ear Colour: Elle Pure Gold, DK acrylic –
Blossom
Horn Colour: Kismet Lollipop, DK metallic
acrylic – 16 White
Eye Black: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic - Black
Eye White: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic - White
Eye Colour, Dark: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic -
Saxe
Eye Colour, Medium: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic
- Sky
Eye Colour, Light: Kismet Soft & Gentle
Baby, 4 ply acrylic – Pale Blue
Body Colour: Miss La Motte, DK merino -
Vanilla
Hair Colour: Miss La Motte, DK merino –
Baby Says
Ear Colour: Elle Pure Gold, DK acrylic –
Blossom
Horn Colour: Kismet Lollipop, DK metallic
acrylic – 16 White
Eye Black: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic - Black
Eye White: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic - White
Eye Colour, Dark: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic -
Saxe
Eye Colour, Medium: Mirage, 4 ply acrylic
- Sky
Eye Colour, Light: Kismet Soft & Gentle
Baby, 4 ply acrylic – Pale Blue
4
  2.5mm hook R - row/ round
 2mm hook SS - slip stitch
 Scissors SC - single crochet
 Yarn sewing needle HDC - half double crochet
 Soft Stuffing - approximately 80g DC - double crochet
 Coarse Stuffing (batting/wadding) - ch - chain
approximately 55g st - stitch
 Pins with large head incr - increase
 Stitch markers - at least 12 decr - decrease
* - section to be repeated
rem - remaining
tog - together
sk - skip
The instructions for all of these skills listed FLO - front loop only
below can be found in the Amigurumi Tips BLO - back loop only
booklet included with this pattern. WS - wrong side
RS - right side
 Working in the round (in a spiral) YO - yarn over
 Counting/marking stitches and rows MR - magic ring
 Using a stitch marker and running stitch
marker
 Basic sewing
 Invisible decrease
 Changing colours
When directed to join with a SS , simply
draw up a loop of yarn at the indicated
stitch, do not chain or use a knot unless
indicated.

SC-decr When directed to work over a loose end

Use an invisible decrease.
SC-incr
2 SC in the same space. Same principle applies
to HDC-incr and DC-incr.
after joining new yarn, work over it for
about 3 stitches. This will secure the
thread sufficiently without causing a
visible bump at the join.

HDC-decr
*YO, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop* X2
YO, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

5
 It will help you easily count which row
you’re on, and see where your row
began, which is very helpful if you make a
If you’re not using one of Comet’s yarn kits,
mistake and need to pull out rows
here are some tips on choosing your own
because you can easily tell where to start
colours:
counting from again. It’s especially vital
for accurately counting rows on long
To make a realistic eye, use realistic colours.
tubes worked in a spiral (like Comet’s
Make the pupils black and the whites of the
legs), because the starting point of each
eyes white - as eyes naturally are.
new row will spiral around the piece as it
gets longer.
For the coloured part of the eye, use 3 shades
of the exact same hue to produce believable
Cut a thread longer than you think you may
shading. For example, if you use a yellowish
need for the marker so that it can span the
green, make sure not to combine it with bluish
entire length of your current workpiece to the
greens but stick with yellowish greens.
end. If it’s too short, add a second thread so
that every row is marked in the end.
For high definition, choose body and hair
colours that contrast with one another, and an
ear colour that blends. For example, use a
pale, solid body colour with a vibrant,
This pattern requires the use of at least 12
variegated hair colour, and then pick one
stitch markers at the same time.
colour from the hair to use inside the ears.

If you don’t have markers, tie a contrasting

It is very important to use running stitch
markers on your unicorn. See the
Amigurumi Tips booklet on how to
implement a running stitch marker.
coloured thread securely with multiple tight
knots at the indicated stitch and then cut it off
carefully when directed to remove the marker.
The handling of your workpiece is likely to
loosen knots and detach markers whose
placement will be difficult to locate again.
6
10 SC X 10 rows = 5X5 cm swatch

Comet’s eyes are designed to be more realistic

Comet is designed to stand in a rigid
with the use of white highlights and a gradient
position. Using the recommended hook
of colour to produce light and shading. Pay
size and yarn weight will produce a
close attention when attaching the eyes so
rather tight mesh that will help make the
that they don’t end up upside-down or back to
legs and neck firm enough to support the
front.
body, the head and the weight of the
hair. Stuffing is also a very important
Be careful when preparing the legs so that
step to having your unicorn be able to
they don’t end up facing backwards or having
stand!
front legs swapped with back legs by the time
the body is finished.
It is important to keep your tension
uniform on each piece in this pattern to
achieve the desired proportions in the
end.

Stuffing the body correctly will mean the

TIP: Make all matching pieces in the
difference between a unicorn that can stand
same sitting to avoid tension-related
sturdy, versus one with weak ankles and a
problems such as ending up with 2
floppy neck.
different size eyes.
It is recommended to use coarse stuffing (eg.
batting/wadding) for the legs, neck and horn
When you work HDC or DC stitches in the
to make them firm, and use soft, springy
body and head, work them a little tighter
stuffing for the body to keep it lightweight.
than you normally would to minimize
holes that stuffing may show through.

If you’re not using the recommmended

tools, use a hook that is one-and-a-half Hi! I’m Comet :)
sizes smaller than recommended on I’ll be popping in
your yarn’s tag. to give you extra
tips and
reminders!

On body parts that started with a magic

ring, weave in your starting thread after
working the first few rounds to secure it.

7

When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to
the desired length and then simply pull
the loose end through your current
stitch. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid
making a knot.
On some parts you will be directed to
ch1 and tie off, where a knot is required.
Chains and slip stitches do not count as
stitches. Do not include these when
counting your stitches, and do not work
into them unless specifically indicated.
When you finish sewing a piece, don’t tie
a knot, but weave the loose end in and
out of the body and its stitches in the
area near where you finished sewing
until the end is well secured. Then cut it
close to the body so it pulls back inside.
Be careful not to distort the body when
weaving in ends.
Not all yarn is created equal. Some batches of
hand dyed merino wool can be slightly thinner
than others, from the same supplier. Similarly,
in bulk machine manufacturing, not all yarn
weights are the same either, even when they
are labeled as the same weight; one brand’s
double knit may be thicker or thinner than
another’s. The thickness may even vary
between different colours within the same
brand.
Comet’s design is slighlty sensitive to yarn
density so there is a small chance you may
need to trouble-shoot a little when it comes to
the body and hair.
If you find that your batch of yarn is on
the thinner side and your unicorn’s body
pieces aren’t coming out firm enough,
this can be fixed by using a half-a-size
smaller hook for every piece throughout
the pattern. In this case, it’s important to
scale down all the pieces using smaller
hooks so that they all come out
proportional.
If you find that your unicorn’s hair isn’t
curling enough, you might try a thicker
yarn or a half-a-size smaller hook. In this
case, there is no need to scale down the
rest of the pieces.
This pattern uses 8 ply yarn for Comet’s
body and 4 ply for her eyes. Use this as a
guide when choosing your own yarn if
you’re not using the recommended
weights.
Get ready!
I’ll see you again
in Part 1…
8
A preview of how Comet will look when
complete:

9
 Remember to refer back to the Prelude
Welcome to the booklet if you need help in any areas and
first part of your check the Amigurumi Tips booklet for
most magical extra tutorials on the skills required for
adventure! Let’s making Comet.
get started ^_^
You can share your progress with your
Projectarian tribe members on Instagram
using the #CometTheUnicorn hashtag,
and tag me @Projectarian – I’d love to
see your wonderful work!

Jessie

2
Use a 2.5mm hook 1SC in 2nd ch from hook. 1SC in each rem
Make 2 ch. (12)
Finished size: 6cm long x 6cm at the
widest point

INNER EARS

R1: Using Flesh Colour, ch13. Mark 13th ch.

R2: Ch1, turn. 5SC, SC-decr, 5SC. (11)

R3: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11)
R4: Ch1, turn. 4SC, SC-decr, 5SC. (10)
R5: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10)
R6: Ch1, turn. 4SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (9) 3
R7: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9)
R8: Ch1, turn. 3SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (8)
R9: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 4SC, SC-decr. (6)
R10: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 2SC, SC-decr. (4)
R11: Ch1, turn. *SC-decr * X2. (2)
Working into the side of the sts, and working
the loose end in as you go, 1SC in next 10 sps.
(11)

Ch1 and tie off.

SC-incr into 2 sts at tip of ear. (4)

SC AROUND THE EDGE

Go back to R1. With marker on right hand

side, join Flesh Colour yarn with a SS at
marked ch. Remove marker. Ch1, 1SC in same
sp.

Now SC down the other side of the ear: Start

by inserting your hook into the next visible SC-
decr (simply push it into the middle of the
stitch), work 1SC.

TIP: See the Pro

Tips booklet on
how to work into
the side of the
rows.

4
Working the loose end in as you go, 1SC in
next 10 sps. (11)
1SC in next ch sp. Mark this st. Working the
loose end in as you go, 1SC in next 11 ch sps.
(12)
SS in 1st SC (does not count as a st).
Total st count = (38)
Tie off.
OUTER EARS
Make another two the same, all in Body
Colour, but do not tie off before SC around the
edge. When you SC around the edge, attach
your st marker in a different position, placing
it on the very last SC (be careful not to place it
on the SS).
5
JOIN THE EAR PIECES
Lay Flesh Coloured piece on top of Body
Coloured piece, with st markers lined up (WS
of SC edges facing each other).
1SC in next 11 sts. (12)
At this point, be careful not to work into SS on
Flesh Coloured piece. Tuck the loose end
inside the ear.

Continue working through both layers: 1SC in

Working with Body Colour, ch1. rem 26 sts. (26)
Insert your hook through marked st on both SS in 1st SC.
ears (you will be working through RS of Flesh
colour and WS of Body Colour).
1SC in same st. Remove markers.

Total st count = (38)

Tie off, leaving a 30cm thread for sewing.

TIP: See the Pro

Tips booklet for
help with sewing
techniques.

6
Use a 2.5mm hook
Make 4 R3: Ch1. *1SC, SC-incr * X6. (18)

Continue working in rows

TIP: See the

R4: Ch1, turn. 9SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (19)
Prelude booklet
R5: Ch1, turn. 9SC , SC-incr, 9SC. (20)
for special stitch R6-7: Ch1, turn. 20SC. (20)
instructions. Mark the 2nd st, 11th st and 19th st on R7.

NOTE: Place the markers while hoof is still WS

facing

R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC in magic ring. SS in

1st SC. (6)
R2: Ch1. *SC-incr* X6. SS in 1st SC. (12)
7
Close up the hoof as directed in the
following intsructions, then continue to
R8.
CLOSING UP THE HOOF
Make sure hoof is inside out (MR is WS facing).
With WS of R7 facing, squash the hoof flat so
that the edges lay on top of one another.
Working through both layers of R7, insert
hook through WS of 1st SC and RS of last SC
(not the marked sts). Make a tight SS.
Working into the sides of the rows and
through both layers, tight SS in next 4 sps. (4)
TIP: Locate the next space to work into on the
side facing you, then simply push your hook
through both layers so it comes out of the
hole with the least resistance directly on the
other side.
Total SS count = (5)
8
Do not remove markers. Make 3 more the same and mark all of them.
If you don’t have 12 markers, tie a short piece
Tie off. Secure/weave in loose end of magic of yarn at the indicated stitches (refer back to
ring. the Prelude booklet for more details).

Flip hoof right side out. It is recommended to make all 4 hooves

before moving on to the legs to ensure
uniform tension on them.

Hoof is continued from R7 on the next page.

Don’t stuff the

hooves yet!

Detailed stuffing
instructions will be
provided at the
end of the legs’
section.

9
R8: Join yarn on RS with a SS at 11th st on R7.
Remove marker. Work the loose end in for a
few sts as you go. Ch1, 1SC in same st.
7SC.
1SC in each marked st, skipping the 20th and
1st sts of R7. Remove markers, 8SC. (18)
Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.
TIP: See the Pro
Tips booklet on
how to use a
running stitch
marker.
R9: In BLO: 9SC, SC-incr, 7SC, SC-decr last st +
1st st tog (still working in BLO).
When working your decrease, you will be
using up the last stitch of R8 and the first
stitch of R9. The next stitch you make will
count as the beginning of R10, so mark the
row accordingly with your running stitch
marker.
10
R10: 4HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC, HDC-decr.
(18)
R11: 4HDC, 11SC, 3HDC. (18)
R12-13: 5HDC, 11SC, 2HDC. (18)
R14: 5HDC, 13SC. (18)
R15-20: 18SC. (18)

Do not tie off. Proceed to the next sections to

make 2 front legs and 2 back legs.

11
Make 2 Do not remove running stitch marker.
Continued from R20 of the hoof
Tie off, leaving a 10cm loose end to be tucked
R21: 3SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (19) inside the body later.
R22: 19SC. (19)
R23: 4SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (20) Return to R8 of The Hooves to make the
R24: 20SC. (20) second front leg, then move on to making the
R25: 5SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (21) back legs.
R26: 21SC. (21)
R27: 6SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (22)
R28: 22SC. (22)
R29: 7SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (23)
R30: 23SC. (23)
R31: 8SC, SC-incr, 14SC. (24)

SS in next 2 sts to taper off the end of your

row. Do not count these sts.

12
Make 2 Do not remove running stitch marker.
Continued from R20 of the hoof
Tie off, leaving a 10cm loose end to be tucked
R21: 3SC, SC-decr, 7SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (18) inside the body later.
R22: 12SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (19)
R23: 2SC, SC-decr, 8SC, * SC-incr * X2, 5SC. (20) Return to R8 of The Hooves to make the
R24: 12SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (21) second back leg, then move on to stuffing the
R25: 13SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (22) legs.
R26: 14SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (23)
R27: 15SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (24)
R28: 16SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (25)
R29: 16SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (26)
R30: 4SC, SC-incr, 12SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (28)
R31: 19SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (29)
R32: 5SC, SC-incr, 14SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (31)
R33: 22SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (32)

SS in next 2 sts to taper off the end of your

row. Do not count these sts.
13
Stuffing is a very important step that will
greatly affect the outcome of your
finished piece. It is time consuming and
TIP: Use coarse
should be carried out as if sculpting the
stuffing such as
pieces like clay to produce the desired
batting/wadding
shapes. Rushed, haphazard stuffing will for the legs to
produce a visibly lumpy unicorn that help your unicorn
doesn’t stand well. stand firmly.
Make sure it’s
It is recommended to read points 1-3 before ripped apart
beginning. thoroughly before
use to avoid
1. TO AVOID LUMPS lumps.

Use small amounts of stuffing at a time. If

your stuffing is coarse, make sure it has been
thoroughly ripped apart before use.

14
2. TO SHAPE THE HOOF CORRECTLY
Position a front leg on your work surface so
that it stands up straight. The hoof will
naturally bend as pictured, so that it can stand
flat on the ground while the leg is straight. The
front of the hoof will protrude forward.
Place some stuffing in the hoof (you can use
the back of a pencil to push it down the leg).
Compact the stuffing while holding the leg in
position. Compacting the stuffing while the
hoof is planted firmly on the ground will
produce a smooth, flat hoof for your unicorn
to stand on.
The hoof is designed to be cloven (meaning
split in 2).
Compact the stuffing by tapping it down with
the back of a pencil until it feels firm. Add
more stuffing and repeat until it is well
compacted on top of the previous stuffing.
Push your finger into the cleft to accentuate
the crease when stuffing of the hoof is
complete.
3. TO PRODUCE FIRM LEGS
The entire leg’s stuffing will need to be well
compacted to support the weight of the
unicorn’s body and mass of hair. To achieve
this, hold the leg in your fist or clasped in your
fingers as you compact the stuffing with the
back of a pencil to get a firm result without
allowing the ankle to bend or the stitches to
stretch – the stuffing must not show between
the stitches.
15
TO SHAPE THE ANKLES CORRECTLY
The ankles should point up perfectly straight
from the ground.
When viewed from the front (cleft of hoof
facing you), they should be as wide as the
hoof. From the side they should be slightly
wider (so the leg is flattened slightly).
Take care not to allow the ankle to bulge at
the back (where you worked your HDC
stitches). It should be perfectly straight.
TO SHAPE THE FRONT LEG CORRECTLY
From the front and back, the leg should be the
same width as the hoof, all the way up. This in
turn will ensure that from the side, the ankle
widens slightly and then tapers outwards from
R21 onward (where you started increasing).
Leave the last few rows (about 3) empty for
easy handling when joining to the body. Check
that the 2 front legs are identically stuffed,
sized and shaped.
16
TO SHAPE THE BACK LEG CORRECTLY
Like the front legs, the back legs should be the
same width all the way up when viewed from
the front. From the side, the ankles are slightly
wider and the thigh is much wider.
Note how the knee bends backwards (the
opposite direction to a human knee) and push
stuffing into the knee-cap to shape it
accordingly. After the bend, encourage the
thigh to widen out sideways.

Leave the last few rows (about 3) empty for

To start stuffing the back leg, place it on your
work table with the ankle pointing straight up.
The leg curves forward at the knee joint and
the opening of the leg is level with the
horizon.
easy handling when joining to the body. Check
that the 2 back legs are identically stuffed,
sized and shaped.

Begin by stuffing the hoof and ankle the same

as the front leg. When you get to the knee,
preserve and accentuate the bend as much as
possible by compacting the stuffing firmly in
the areas you want it to stay, and
manipulating the leg into the desired shape.

17
 Remember to refer back to the Prelude
Welcome to Part booklet if you need help in any areas and
Two! check the Amigurumi Tips booklet for
extra tutorials on the skills required for
Are you having making Comet.
fun so far? :)
Keep those pictures coming! Share your
progress with the rest of your
Projectarian tribe members on Facebook
using the #CometTheUnicorn hashtag,
and tag me @Projectarian – I’d love to
see your wonderful work!

Jessie
2
Use a 2.5mm hook

IMPORTANT: Tie a thread around each ankle

of one back leg and one front leg to mark
them.

From now on the marked legs are the left legs.

The purpose of the thread is to distinguish
them from the right legs. MARKING STITCHES ON THE LEGS

You can distinguish a back leg from a front leg The order that you mark them in, is also going
by looking at the size of the opening; a back to be the order that they are attached.
leg has a wide thigh. 3
NOTE: Do not count the slip stitches. Count R1: Start on the back left leg. Join Body Colour
from stitch number 1 of the last round. with a SS in 4th SC (this is 1 st after the
marker).
Back left leg: Mark the 3rd st and the 24th st.
Front left leg: Mark the 8th st and the 23rd st.
Front right leg: Mark the 11th st and the 20th st.
Back right leg: Mark the 10th st and the 21st st.

Ch1, 1SC in same st. 20SC, finishing in next

marked st.

Ch7.

IMPORTANT: When working on the legs,

The next sts worked into each leg will be
ignore the 2 slip stitches on each leg, and
worked in the space from marker to marker
work over them, into the 1st and 2nd SC of the
on each leg, with a chain connecting each leg:
last R of the leg.
Starting in the 8th st of the front left leg, 16SC.

Do not remove any of the stitch markers until

directed.

When you come across loose ends, crochet

over them for about 3 sts, then tuck the ends
inside the legs.

4
Ch7. Starting in the 20th st of the front right SC in marked st on back left leg to join.
leg, 16SC.

Ch7. Starting in the 21st st of the back right

leg: 22SC. Ch7.

All the legs are now joined by chains. Lay them

out in a string and make sure none of the
chains are twisted.

5
All the legs are now joined. R2: 21SC, *1SC in each of 7 ch, 16SC* X2.

Check to make sure that your chains haven’t

twisted in the interim.

Check that all the hooves face forward, and

that the back legs are at the back and the
front legs are at the front. (The back is where
you have just joined the string of legs, with
one back leg on either side of the join).

1SC in each of 7 ch. Place a stitch marker in

the middle of the 7 ch (into the 4th ch).

Continue working in the round and use a

running stitch marker.

When you work into the chain now, work into

the back loops only.

6
22SC, 1SC in each of 7 ch, 1SC in rem st. (104)
You now have a row of SC worked into every
st and chain that joined the legs in R1.
To easily count the rows of your body going
forward, place a stitch marker on R1,
somewhere near the beginning of the row, so
that the marker goes in & out either side of
the row (top & bottom). This will clearly mark
R1 so you’ll know where to start counting from
and you won’t have to count from the bottom
of the hoof.
R3-4: 104SC. (104)
R5: 48SC, SC-incr, 55SC. (105)
R6: 3SC, SC-decr, 12SC, SC-decr, 30SC, SC-incr,
28SC, SC-decr, 11SC, SC-decr, 12SC. (102)
R7: 48SC, SC-incr, 53SC. (103)
R8: 49SC, SC-incr, 53SC. (104)
R9: 4SC, SC-decr, 9SC, SC-decr, 13SC, SC-decr,
33SC, SC-decr, 13SC, SC-decr, 9SC, SC-decr,
11SC. (98)
R10: 9SC, SC-decr, 20SC, SC-decr, 26SC, SC-
decr, 21SC, SC-decr, 10SC, SC-decr, 2SC. (93)
R11: 5SC, SC-decr, 6SC, SC-decr, 12SC, SC-decr,
30SC, SC-decr, 12SC, SC-decr, 6SC, SC-decr,
7SC, SC-decr, 1SC. (86)
R12: 8SC, SC-decr, 17SC, SC-decr, 23SC, SC-
decr, 18SC, SC-decr, 12SC. (82)
7
The body is starting to take shape, and the Tie off, leaving a 30cm thread for sewing
hips and shoulders are more defined. closed. Sewing instructions will be provided
later in the pattern. Do not sew the body
closed yet.

R13: 2SC, SC-decr, 25SC, SC-decr, 16SC, SC-

decr, 26SC, SC-decr, 5SC. (78)
R14: 7SC, SC-decr, 28SC, SC-decr, 27SC, SC-
decr, 8SC, SC-decr. (74)
R15: *SC-decr, 1SC* X4. 48SC. *SC-decr, 1SC*
X4. 2SC. (66)
R16: *SC-decr, 1SC* X3. 47SC. *SC-decr, 1SC*
X3. 1SC. (60)
R17: *SC-decr, 1SC* X2. 48SC. *SC-decr, 1SC*
X2. (56)
R18: *SC-decr* X2. 46SC. *SC-decr* X3. (51)
At this stage the
body may look
quite
frilly/pinched and
deformed but
don’t worry, when
you stuff it you’ll
see that the
shape is correct!

8
 Flip the body on its side so that the right
legs are facing (left legs are furthest away
from you).

Use a 2.5mm hook

IMPORTANT: When working on the legs,

ignore the 2 slip stitches on each leg, and
work over them, into the 1st and 2nd SC of the
last row of the leg.

Do not remove any of the stitch markers until

directed.

9
R1: Join Body Colour with a SS at the marked
ch on R1 of the body. Remove marker. Ch1,
1SC in same sp. 1SC in next 3 ch.

6SC. SC next st + marked st tog. 1SC in each of

7 ch.

Flip the right legs over so you can work into

the open stitches. As you go, remove the
markers after working into each marked stitch
as directed.

SC marked st + next st tog. 6SC. SC next st +

marked st tog. 1SC in each of 7 ch.

SC marked st + next st tog (in FLO of marked

st and next available st, make invisible
decrease).

10
SC marked st + next st tog. 8SC. SC next st + Continue working in the round and use a
marked st tog. 1SC in each of 7 ch. running stitch marker.

R2: 12SC. *SC-decr* X4. 23SC. *SC-decr* X4.

13SC. (56)
R3: 10SC. *SC-decr* X4. 19SC. *SC-decr* X4.
11SC. (48)
R4: 8SC. *SC-decr* X4. 15SC. *SC-decr* X4.
Mark the 2nd decrease (the 29th st). 9SC. (40)

SS in next 2 sts to taper off the end of your

row. You will work into these SS when sewing
the belly closed.

SC marked st + next st tog. 8SC. SC next st +

marked st tog. 1SC in each of rem 3 ch. (64)

Remove the running stitch markers from the

legs and belly, leaving the running stitch
marker (between the back legs) in place.

Tie off, leaving a loose end to be tucked inside

All the open stitches around the legs are now
the body later.
used up and there is a stitch in every chain,
making a row of SC around the bottom
opening of the body (the belly).

Read on for
detailed
directions on
sewing the belly
closed.

11
SEWING THE BELLY CLOSED
Cut a 30cm thread of Body Colour.
Flip the body right side up.
Flip the body upside down again so that RS of
belly is facing.
Draw your sewing needle out through the
marked stitch on the belly and remove
marker.

Draw your needle through the front loop of

the current stitch, and the front loop of the
next stitch on that row.

Looking at wrong side of belly (look through

the top opening of the body), locate the
invisible decreases on R4 between the back
legs (you can identify them by the loops left
un-worked).

Continue working in FLO.

Draw your needle through the opposite stitch,

and the next open one across from it.

Join your sewing thread at one of the middle

stitches, securing it with a double knot on one
of the available loops.

12
Continue in this manner, working in FLO of
the 2 SS as well when you reach them.
Sew into the SC shared by the 2nd SS as if it
were a separate stitch like the rest.
Remove all stitch markers except the running
stitch marker on the body (the one that marks
from the top of the leg to the opening of the
unicorn’s back).

Keep going until the belly is closed.

Flip the body right side up.

Draw your needle out through the current SC

(both loops), up inside the body.

Secure sewing with a tight double knot on the

loop of the closest decrease. Leave loose end
inside body.

13
TO FINISH STUFFING THE LEGS

The stuffing may have loosened up in the top

of the legs while working the body. Check that
it’s all compacted firmly, then start filling up
the remaining space in the back legs until
they’re full up to the level of the belly.
The thighs are
Compact the stuffing firmly in the same now starting to
manner as before and remember to preserve look nice and
the curve in the back legs (the knee), and round. The front
encourage the thigh to widen sideways, legs may look a
curving at the front and back. Keep the width bit pinched by the
top at this stage,
of the legs uniform when viewed from the
but we’ll fix that
front/back. Fill up the front legs in the same
later with more
manner.
stuffing!

14
SEWING THE BACK CLOSED
On the last row of the body, mark the 12th st
and the 40th st. This marks 29 sts to be used
for the neck, leaving 22 sts to sew the back
closed.
The back is sewn in the same manner as the
belly:
With the body right side up, draw your sewing
needle through FLO of current st and next st
on that row.

Working in FLO, draw your needle through the

TIP: It is important that opposite st, and the next open one across
the correct stitches are from it.
left open for working
the neck. If you
struggle to line up the
right stitches while
sewing, you can mark
each pair across from
each other starting at
Continue in this manner, working in FLO at SS
the 2 markers and
as well, until all 22 sts are used up.
working your way to
the back of the body.

15
Sew into the FLO of the last 2 stitches again, to STUFFING THE BOOTY
secure your sewing while you tie off.
Use soft, springy stuffing for the body to keep
it lightweight. Make sure the stitch markers
stay in place.

Your stitch
markers will likely
get in the way or
fall off during
stuffing. You can
replace them with
Draw your needle through the current SC
a thread tied
(both loops) to pull it inside the body. Secure
securely to each
sewing with a tight double knot on a single
stitch – tie multiple
loop of any nearby stitch (don’t let your
knots so they don’t
sewing go slack while you tie the knot). Leave
come loose – then
loose end inside body.
cut them off
carefully when
directed to remove
the markers.

Remove running stitch marker.

The body looks

even more
deformed now
Through the following directions you’ll start
but I promise
filling up the back of the body and the rest of
you’re still on the
the area at the top of the legs, stuffing it firmly
right track! ^_^
enough to smooth out any frills; it doesn’t
have to be as firm as the legs. Once again, use
the stuffing to mould the body.
16
Start by filling the entire rump area (this To fix this, squeeze the thigh from below the
includes the bum, both thighs and the part of belly, and then squeeze the body sideways
the belly between the thighs). The bum should until the legs stand straight.
be smooth and evenly rounded. When viewed
from the top, the thighs will protrude out
wider than the abdomen, but don’t stuff the
abdomen yet.

Leave the rest of the body empty for easy

handling while making the neck. The empty
part of the body may still look deformed and
pinched at this stage.

Fill the rump area enough to keep it smooth

and well-shaped but don’t over-stuff. Ensure
that the legs still point straight down – they
may stick out sideways at a slight angle if the
top part of the leg is over-stuffed.

17
Use a 2.5mm hook

Remember to
work tighter HDCs
R1: Join Body Colour with a SS at 13th st (this is
in the neck, to
1 st after the marked st). Ch1, 1SC in same st.
avoid a floppy
neck. If your
stitches are too
loose, the neck
will use a lot more
stuffing in order
to firm it up,
making it too
large for the
head.

18
Working over the loose end for 3 sts, 27SC, You now have a row of SC around the neck
ending in the marked st. Remove marker. opening, using up all 29 SC and also borrowing
2 stitches (the last 2) from the sewed up part
of the back to make up 31 stitches.

*1SC in both loops of next st (shared by the

sewing in FLO)* X2. Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.

R2: 6HDC, 7SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 7HDC, HDC-incr,

1HDC. (31)

To easily count the rows of your neck going

forward, place a stitch marker on R1,
somewhere near the beginning of the row, so
that the marker goes in & out either side of
the row (top & bottom). This will clearly mark
R1 so you’ll know where to start counting
from, and you won’t have to count from the
1SC in rem marked st. Remove marker. (31)
bottom of the hoof.

19
R3: 6HDC, 7SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 7HDC, HDC-incr, R13: 6HDC, 5SC. Leave rem sts un-worked. (11)
1HDC. (31)
R4: 6HDC, 6SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 8HDC, HDC-incr, Tie off, leaving a 40cm thread for sewing.
1HDC. (31)
R5: 6HDC, 6SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 8HDC, HDC-incr, Remove all stitch markers.
1HDC. (31)
Stuffing instructions to follow.

R6: 6HDC, 6SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 7HDC, HDC-incr,

2HDC. (31)
R7: 6HDC, 6SC, SC-decr, 7SC, 7HDC, HDC-incr,
2HDC. (31)
R8: 6HDC, 5SC, SC-decr, 8SC, 7HDC, HDC-incr,
2HDC. (31)
R9: 6HDC, 5SC, SC-decr, 8SC, 8HDC, HDC-incr,
1HDC. (31)

R10: 6HDC, 5SC, SC-decr, 6SC, 9HDC, HDC-incr,

2HDC. (31)
R11: 6HDC, 5SC, *SC-incr* X2, 7SC, 8HDC,
HDC-incr, 2HDC. (34)
R12: 6HDC, 6SC, *SC-incr* X2, 9SC, 8HDC,
HDC-incr, 2HDC. (37)
20
STUFFING THE ABDOMEN

Fill the stomach area between the front legs

and the back legs until its firmness matches
the rump. When viewed from the top, it will be
narrower than the rump.

21
BALANCING THE LEGS STUFFING THE SHOULDERS

Start by stuffing the top of the front legs some

more, making sure they blend straight into the
body and are not pinched at the point where
the body and belly begin.

Pad the shoulders so that when viewed from

the top, they are wider than the abdomen but
narrower than the rump. Check that the legs
are still the same width as the hooves when
viewed from the front/back. The chest is still
Stand your unicorn upright and make sure all hollow at this point.
the legs touch the ground, and that the body
isn’t twisted in any particular direction. Check
that the front legs are straight, that the ankles
and hooves haven’t collapsed sideways, and
that the back legs bend at the knee.

Stretch any of the legs that seem shorter until

the unicorn balances perfectly. It may happen
that the front right leg is a bit shorter due to
all the pieces being worked in a spiral, so just
give it a tug to stretch it slightly.

STUFFING THE CHEST

Fill the open space left between the shoulders

and abdomen, to the level of the back. Allow
the chest to bulge forward.
You can also bend the back right knee even
more, or slightly straighten the back right leg,
to help the front leg touch the ground.

22
Pinch the abdomen to make it clearly defined
from the thighs and shoulders.
Check that the front legs are still straight and
if they have been overstuffed and are sticking
out at an angle, pinch them below the belly,
and pinch the sides of the shoulders until they
stand straight.
Remember to use coarse stuffing for the neck.
Mould the chest and the front of the neck into
a smooth, even curve as you stuff. The front of
the neck should lean towards the rump (until
the last 2 rows of the neck where there are
added increases). The back of the neck must
be almost perfectly straight up. The opening
of the neck makes a steep angle when viewed
from the side.

Encourage the neck to be flattened sideways

as you stuff it; meaning it will be wide when
viewed from the side, and narrower from the
front/back. When viewed from the front/back,
the neck should be perfectly straight with
uniform width all the way up.

STUFFING THE NECK

Compact the
stuffing firmly as
you go. The neck
needs to be
strong to support
her large head
and heavy hair
without flopping
to the side. Take
care not to stretch
the stitches apart,
When the neck is nearly full, fill it till it
exposing the
overflows, then compact the stuffing and
stuffing.
repeat until the entire neck is firm.

23
When you reach the last 2 rows, allow this
area to curve forward (away from the rump) in
front, keeping the back of the neck perfectly
straight.

More stuffing can

be added later
while sewing the
head.

24
Use 4ply or sock weight yarn Using this method, all your threads will
Use a 2mm hook be secure when you cut them, leaving
tails of about 3 cm. You’ll only need to
There are multiple colour changes in the weave in the Black starting thread at the
eyes. Each time you attach a new colour, magic ring to secure it.
crochet over the tail of the new colour
and over the old colour thread, then
drop the tail of the old colour. Crochet See the
over the new colour’s tail again on the Amigurumi Tips
next stitch to secure it, then drop the tail. booklet on how to
change colours.
Do not crochet over all the threads as
you go – this will make the eye too bulky.
When you need to pick that colour up
again, leave some slack in the thread
under the eye so that it doesn’t pull on
the eye and distort it.
The 1st st of each round is worked into
the same space as the SS. 25
RIGHT EYE R4: Ch1. *2SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the
following colour pattern:
R1: Using Black, 6SC in magic ring. SS in 1 st SC. 5 Black, 3 White, 1 Dark, 1 Medium, 5 Light, 1
(6) Medium, 1 Dark, 7 Black.
SS in 1st SC. (24)

R2: Ch1. *SC-incr* X6, working in the following

colour pattern: R5: Ch1. *3SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the
3 Black, 1 White, 8 Black. following colour pattern:
st
SS in 1 SC. (12) 6 Black, 4 White, 1 Dark, 1 Medium, 7 Light, 1
Medium, 1 Dark, 9 Black.
SS in 1st SC. (30)

R3: Ch1. *1SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the

following colour pattern:
4 Black, 2 White, 12 Black. Tie off and cut all yarn. Loose ends may be
SS in 1st SC. (18) concealed underneath the eye during
assembly.

26
WHITE CORNERS OF RIGHT EYE White corners complete.

Work the loose ends in as you go. There should be 7 sts left un-worked on both
sides between the two parts of R6. Do not
R6: Join White with a SS at 3rd st. count the Black SS of R5.

*Work the loose end in as you go. Do not

work into same st again. Starting in the next
st, 1SC, 1HDC, 1DC, 1DC, 1HDC, 1SC, 1SS.
Tie off.*

Skip 7 sts from last White SS then join White

with a SS at 8th st. *Repeat.

27
LEFT EYE R4: Ch1. *2SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the
following colour pattern:
R1: Using Black, 6SC in magic ring. SS in 1 st SC. 7 Black, 1 Dark, 1 Medium, 5 Light, 1 Medium,
(6) 1 Dark, 3 White, 5 Black,
SS in 1st SC. (24)

R2: Ch1. *SC-incr* X6, working in the following

colour pattern: R5: Ch1. *3SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the
8 Black, 1 White, 3 Black. following colour pattern:
st
SS in 1 SC. (12) 9 Black, 1 Dark, 1 Medium, 7 Light, 1 Medium,
1 Dark, 4 White, 6 Black.
SS in 1st SC. (30)

R3: Ch1. *1SC, SC-incr* X6, working in the

following colour pattern:
12 Black, 2 White, 4 Black. Tie off and cut all yarn. Loose ends may be
st
SS in 1 SC. (18) concealed underneath the eye during
assembly.

28
WHITE CORNERS OF LEFT EYE White corners complete. There should be 7 sts
left un-worked on both sides between the two
R6: Join White with a SS at 6th st. parts of R6. Do not count the SS of R5.

*Work the loose end in as you go. Do not

work into same st again. Starting in the next
st, 1SC, 1HDC, 1DC, 1DC, 1HDC, 1SC, 1SS. IMPORTANT:
Tie off.* Place a marker
anywhere on this
eye to mark it as
the LEFT eye!

Skip 7 sts from last White SS then join White

with a SS at 8th st. *Repeat.

29
EYELIDS When you reach the White SS, do not work
Use a 2mm hook into this st, but work 1SC into the SC of R5 (the
coloured SC shared by the SS).
Continue from R6 of the right eye. Work the
loose end of the Body Colour in as you go, as
well as the White and Black loose ends.

Do the right eye first, then do the left eye the

same. This is the right eye:

*Sk SS. Starting in White SC, 1SC in next 3 sts.

Ch1, mark this ch-sp. 1SC in next 3 sts.

Sk SS, 1SC in next st on R5 (shared by SS).*

1SC in next 7 sts (do not work into Black SS).
R7: At the bottom of the eye (the coloured 1SC in next st on R5 (shared by SS).
part), join Body Colour with a SS at 4 th st of 7
un-worked sts. Ch1, 1SC in same st. 1SC in *Repeat.
next 3 sts.
1SC in rem 3 sts.
SS in 1st SC.

Total st count = (30)

Do not remove markers.

Tie off, leaving a 40cm thread for sewing.

30
Make the eyelids the same on both eyes.

Pictured below is the left eye.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the left eye is marked

to differentiate it from the right eye.

Place an extra marker on any stitch at the top

of the eye. The top of the eye is opposite the
coloured area.

This will help you

place the eyes on
the correct sides
of my head and
avoid placing
them upside
down! :)

31
 Remember to refer back to the Prelude
Welcome to Part 3 booklet if you need help in any areas and
where we’ll be check the Amigurumi Tips booklet for
making Comet’s extra tutorials on the skills required for
hair! making Comet.

Keep those pictures coming! Share your

progress with the rest of your
Projectarian tribe members on Facebook
using the #CometTheUnicorn hashtag,
and tag me @Projectarian – I’d love to
see your wonderful work!

Jessie
2
Use a 2.5mm hook R1: Using Body Colour, ch41. Starting in 2nd ch
from hook, 1SC in each ch. (40)
When directed to work into a chain, work
into the back loop only. The back loop
refers to the top loop of the V, not the
back bar of the chain.

When you get to the end of the chain and

you are directed to work down the other
side of the chain, work into both
remaining loops.

This applies to all sections.

3
Working down the other side of the ch, and
working the loose end in as you go, 1SC in
each ch. (40)

SS in 1st SC.

Tie off, leaving a 90cm thread for sewing.

Total st count = (80)

4
Use a 2.5mm hook
The hair should be loose waves, not tight
curls. Results may vary with different
yarns.
R1: Using Hair Colour, ch24, mark 24th ch. Ch
another 15, mark 15th ch. Ch another 8.
Now join the ch to the mane base, at the
opposite end to where the sewing thread
is: Insert your hook between the 2 rows
of SC, pushing the hook into the 1st
available space, and out the next space.
5
Make 1SS to secure the ch on the mane base. R2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, *1SC in next 2
This SS counts as 1 ch. ch. SC-incr in next ch.* Repeat until you reach
the next marker (8 times in total).

Remove each marker when you reach it.

Ch9, mark 9th ch. Ch15 more, mark 15th ch.

Ch25. (Total st count = 97)

The markers are

there so that you
don’t have to
count the repeats
on every lock of
hair – simply stop
when you reach
the marker!

*1HDC in next 2 ch. HDC-incr in next ch.*

Repeat until you reach the next marker (5
times in total).

To help the hair

curl, keep your
tension on the
tighter side for
row 2.

6
*1DC in next 2 ch. DC-incr in next ch.* Repeat
until you reach the SS. Work into BLO of SS, as
you did into each ch.

Loosen up your
tension for row 3.
Continue repeats in the same manner until Tight stitches here
you reach the next marker (6 times in total). will pull the hair
straight instead of
wavy.

R3: Turn. Do not ch1. 128SS (working into

each st of R2, and working through both loops
as usual).

*1HDC in next 2 ch. HDC-incr in next ch.*

Repeat until you reach the next marker (5
times in total).

*1SC in next 2 ch. SC-incr in next ch.* Repeat

until you reach the end of the chain (8 times in
total).

Total st count = (128)

Tie off.

7
Your first lock is complete. Every lock is made using the exact same
pattern as the first one, the only difference will
To help shape it into a smooth wave, grip it
be which chain to attach them to on the mane
near the mane base, hold it tight and slide
base.
your hand down (pulling on one half of the
lock). Repeat on the other half.

WHERE TO PLACE THE LOCKS

For easy reference, mark the position of each

lock before you begin, as directed below.

Now to attach more locks to the mane base.

To see the spaces you’re going to be working
in next, pull the stitches on either side of the
chain to expose the holes between them. You
will be working into some of these spaces.

Locks 2-6: Skip 1 ch and attach at the next ch.

Locks 7-9: Skip 2 ch and attach at the next ch.
Lock 10-11: Skip 3 ch and attach at the next ch.
Lock 12: Skip 4 ch and attach at the next ch.
Lock 13: Skip 5 ch and attach at the next ch.

Weave in the ends.

Going forward you will attach each lock by
inserting your hook in one chain space and
out the other, thus connecting the lock to the
chain as you did the first one.

8
Use a 2.5mm hook R2: Ch1. *SC-incr* X5. SS in 1st SC. (10)
R3: Ch1. 10SC. SS in 1st SC. (10)
The 1st st of each row is worked into the
same space as the SS. Tie off and weave in loose end.

R1: Using Body Colour, make a magic ring, Make sure RS is facing, and sewing thread is
leaving a 25cm thread for sewing. 5SC in on the outside of the tail stub.
magic ring. Lay the loose end over RS of R1 so
that it will be left outside of the tail stub for
sewing. SS in 1st SC. (5)

9
Use a 2.5mm hook

Now join the ch to the tail stub by

The tail hair uses
working 1SS into any SC on the tail stub.
the exact same
pattern as the
mane hair.

R1: Using Hair Colour, ch24, mark 24th ch. Ch

another 15, mark 15th ch. Ch another 8.

10
Ch9, mark 9th ch. Ch15 more, mark 15th ch. R3: Turn. Do not Ch1. 128SS (working into
Ch25. (Total st count = 97) each st of R2 and working through both loops
as usual).

Tie off.

To help it into a smooth wave as you did the

mane hair, grip it near the tail stub, hold it
tight and slide your hand down (pulling on one
half of the lock). Repeat on the other half.

R2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook and work in

BLO. *1SC in next 2 ch. SC-incr in next ch.*
Repeat until you reach the next marker (8
times in total).

Remove each marker when you reach it.

*1HDC in next 2 ch. HDC-incr in next ch.*

Repeat until you reach the next marker (5
times in total). Place one lock into every SC around the tail
stub (10 locks in total).
*1DC in next 2 ch. DC-incr in next ch.* Repeat
until you reach the SS. Again, work into BLO of
SS, as you did into each ch.

Continue repeats in the same manner until

you reach the next marker (6 times in total).

*1HDC in next 2 ch. HDC-incr in next ch.*

Repeat until you reach the next marker (5
times in total).

*1SC in next 2 ch. SC-incr in next ch.* Repeat

until you reach the end of the chain (8 times in Weave in the ends.
total).

Total st count = (128)

11
 Remember to refer back to the Prelude
Welcome to Part booklet if you need help in any areas and
4! This is the last check the Amigurumi Tips booklet for
part of the extra tutorials on the skills required for
pattern :D making Comet.

Keep those pictures coming! Share your

progress with the rest of your
Projectarian tribe members on Facebook
using the #CometTheUnicorn hashtag,
and tag me @Projectarian – I’d love to
see your wonderful work!

Jessie
3
Use a 2.5mm hook
Finished dimensions after stuffing:
13cm long x 10cm tall x 7cm wide. R4: *2SC, SC-incr* X3. 9SC in BLO. (21)

Use soft stuffing for the head.

R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC in magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round and use a

running stitch marker.

R2: *SC-incr* X6. (12)

R3: *1SC, SC-incr* X6. (18)

4
R5: *SC-incr, 3SC* X3. 9SC. (24) R28: 9SC, SC-decr, 21SC, SC-decr, 11SC. (43)
R6: *4SC, SC-incr* X3. 9SC. (27)
R7: 27SC. (27)
R8: 18SC, 3HDC. *HDC-incr in FLO* X3. 3HDC.
(30)

The muzzle is starting to take shape. The SCs

worked in BLO make a sharp bend at the nose
and the HDCs worked in FLO make a sharp
bend in the opposite direction to start forming
the forehead.

Start stuffing the head. To understand the

shape to aim for, see the image below for the
correct orientation. The head currently has a
muzzle, a large forehead, and the back of the
head is open (it might look lumpy/frilly right
now and that’s okay). The HDCs cover the
R9: 19SC, 2HDC. *HDC-incr, 1HDC* X4. 1HDC.
forehead and the stitches worked in BLO are
(34)
at the top of the muzzle (right on the nose).
R10: 22SC. *1HDC, HDC-incr* X5. 1HDC, 1SC.
(39)
R11: 23SC, 3HDC. *HDC-incr, 2HDC* X3. 1HDC,
3SC. (42)
R12: 25SC, 3HDC. *HDC-incr, 2HDC* X3. 1HDC,
4SC. (45)
R13: 27SC, 3HDC. *HDC-incr, 2HDC* X3. 1HDC,
5SC. (48)
R14: 30SC, 3HDC. *HDC-incr, 2HDC* X3. 1HDC,
5SC. (51)
R15: 31SC, 3HDC. * HDC-incr, 2HDC* X3.
1HDC, 7SC. (54)
R16-21: 54SC. (54) Begin by stuffing the muzzle. Encourage the
R22: 12SC, SC-decr, 25SC, SC-decr, 13SC. (52) BLO stitches at the nose to make a sharp bend
R23: 11SC, SC-decr, 39SC. (51) in the muzzle. The front of the muzzle should
R24: 11SC, SC-decr, 23SC, SC-decr, 13SC. (49) be flat, and the chin should be a smooth
R25: 11SC, SC-decr, 36SC. (48) curve.
R26: 10SC, SC-decr, 21SC, SC-decr, 13SC. (46)
R27: 10SC, SC-decr, 34SC. (45)

5
To keep the muzzle blunt and flat at the front,
rest it on your hand or work surface as you
compact the stuffing inside. Compact the
stuffing very firmly in the muzzle.
Begin stuffing the front of the face. The
forehead should be very steep, at a sharp
angle from the muzzle. Push on the HDCs as
you stuff, encouraging the forehead to bulge
forward towards the muzzle.

The head will start to get wider than the

muzzle to give her cheeks, but it shouldn’t be a
round ball. When viewed from the front it
should be narrow, and from the side, wide.

Stuffing continued after R30.

When you stuff the

rest of the head
later, compact it only
enough for the head
to keep its shape
nicely but do not
over-fill so much that
the head expands or
ends up any heavier
than necessary.

R29: SC-decr, 4SC, SC-decr. *5SC, SC-decr* X5.

(36)
R30: *4SC, SC-decr* X6. (30)
6
The jaw line will be flat at first (parallel to the
top of the muzzle), and then start curving up
towards the back of the head.

Keep stuffing as you crochet the next rows,

filling the head entirely to the end. The last
few rows will still add more length to the head
so that it does not end bluntly but is drawn
into a smooth curve.

R31: *3SC, SC-decr* X6. (24)

R32: *2SC, SC-decr* X6. (18)
R33: *1SC, SC-decr* X6. (12)
R34: *SC-decr* X6. (6)

Tie off and sew closed.

Weave in loose end and remove running stitch

marker.

7
Use a 2.5mm hook
Finished size: 60mm R1: Using Horn Colour, 5SC in magic ring. (5)
Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.
The horn pictured in R2: *1SC, SC-incr* X2. 1SC. (7)
the following R3: 7SS. (7)
directions is made
with flesh colour for
illustration
purposes only. Do
not use flesh colour!
Use horn colour to
make your horn.

8
Make sure the horn is RS facing. R10: Work this round in FLO. *3SC, SC-incr*
X3. (15)
R4: Work this round in FLO (front loops of SS). R11: 15SC. (15)
*2SC, SC-incr* X2. 1SC. (9) R12: 15SS. (15)
R13: Work this round in FLO. 15SC. (15)
R14-15: Repeat R11-12. (15)
R16: Work this round in FLO. 15SC. (15)
R17: 15SC. (15)

SS in next 2 sts to taper off the end of your

row.

The first ridge is starting to form on

the horn; each row worked into FLO
will form a new ridge.

R5: 9SC. (9)

Tie off, leaving a 25cm thread for sewing.

Remove running stitch marker.

Stuffing
directions are
provided later
on, in the
R6: 9SS. (9) Assembly
R7: Work this round in FLO. * SC-incr, 2SC* X3. section of the
(12) pattern!
R8: 12SC. (12)
R9: 12SS. (12)

9

It’s time to sew
your magical
unicorn together
at last! :D
Assembly is your most artistic part of this
project. Until now, you have followed
instructions and now it’s time to let your
own creativity flow! The position you
choose for each piece will determine
your unicorn’s final personality.
If you have used the tools and materials
suggested for this pattern, and kept your
tension uniform, your pieces will be most
similar to those pictured, and so
assembly can be carried out as directed.
If your pieces came out different, pin
everything in place first and then nudge
the pieces around until they look
pleasing.
It is highly recommended in either case to
pin everything in place to get an idea of
how it should all fit to be sure before
making permanent attachments.
After all your hard work, it’s worth the
little extra effort to make sure she comes
out perfect! 10
PREPARATION

The neck should not be wider than the head,

they should be the same width when viewed
from the back. Squeeze the neck gently to
push out some excess stuffing if the neck has
been stretched too wide. Make sure the back
of the neck is straight up.
Counting from the back of the head, place a
pin between R6 and R7 (towards the bottom,
center of head).

11
POSITION
Center the head on the neck, then at the back
of the head, pin the last row of the neck at the
marked spot.
When the unicorn is standing, her jawline
should be level with the ground; head
pointing straight forward.
This position requires the back of the neck to
be stretched up the back of the head a bit.
This stretching will help the neck blend into
the head, making a seamless join. Tuck the
head backwards a little and then pin the
throat of the neck underneath the chin
(between R12 and R13 of the head). Adjust the
position if needed. The head should not bulge
at the back, nor should the nose be elevated
as if the unicorn were looking up.
Pin the neck on either side, then place more
pins in the gaps. Check that the back of the
neck blends into the head as these parts
naturally would on a horse, with no bulging or
pinching of the shapes. Stretch the back more
if needed.
When you reach the chin, the increases at the
front of the neck will help it blend into the
chin.
SEWING
All of Comets’ pieces are sewn with a whip
stitch. Use small, closely spaced stitches –
typically 1 whip stitch per crochet stitch.
Pull each stitch firmly to join the pieces
before making the next stitch. Do not pull
the stitches so tight that they deform your
workpiece.
TIP: See the Pro
Tips booklet on
how to sew a
whip stitch.
12
 Once the head is attached, do not finish
with a knot but weave the loose end back
and forth inside the neck until it’s secure,
then trim the leftover loose end close to
the neck so that it pulls back inside the
neck.

When sewing the neck, work your way around

the back of the neck first, then the front. Add
more stuffing to any areas as needed before
closing up the neck completely, paying special
attention when filling the back of the neck
enough to blend the two pieces without
bulging.

The neck should be well-filled; any hollows will

cause the head to flop under the weight of the
hair. Do not overfill, but stuff it firmly as
indicated in the neck stuffing section, holding
it in shape (in your fist) to prevent stretching.

13
PREPARATION POSITION

Weave your sewing thread to the bottom Counting from the last row, up the back of the
center of the ear. head, skip 6 rows (or, counting from the MR,
skip 28 rows) then place a pin between R6 and
R7, and another pin between R4 and R5.

Fold the ear in half and starting in the 2 center

stitches, sew it closed, using up 10 stitches
(work 5 sewing stitches).

14
Follow the line of the rows from pin 1. Draw a Pin both ears before sewing. Since the head is
horizontal line from pin 2 (level with the made in a spiral, you may need to nudge one
horizon). Where these lines intersect, place ear slightly to match the other. Use lots of pins
pin 3. and check them from all angles before sewing.

Place a 4th pin in same position as pin 3, on

the opposite side.

Pin the bottom center of the ear at pin 3.

At this point it’s a good idea to pin the eyes

and mane roughly in place. If the ears are too
far down, the forehead and top of the head
will look big and bald. Pinning the other
features will help you spot that and reposition
the ears.

Rotate the ears: When looking at the head

from the side, the bottom of the ears should
be level with the line of sewing on the neck.
Adjust the position if necessary. The goal is for
the ears to be positioned quite far back, high
up on the head, and pointing forward, not
straight up.

SEWING

NOTE: When the ears are positioned

correctly, there should be just enough
space between them to fit the mane base
after sewing.

15
Begin on the right ear, at the opening. The
folded ear is now 2 layers thick, with one layer
on the head and one layer facing you. Sew
only the layer that is closest to the head, to
attach it, for a span of 2 stitches.
Now sew the back of that layer to the head.
Weave your needle in and out of the ear and
the head, working into the body coloured
part of the ear only - don’t push your needle
through to the flesh coloured part.
The line sewn will be a curve as you follow the
path where the ear and the head touch.
Looking at the back of the ear, count 3 rows
from the bottom of the ear. Work your way
towards that point, then start sewing the back
of the ear.
The back of the ear is quite thick, so squeeze it
onto the head as you sew, connecting the
center-line of the ear to the head so that it
blends and becomes part of the head instead
of a loose part stuck on.
This will also mean the ear uses up more
space on the back of the head than when it
was pinned, leaving a gap of about 2 sts
between the ears after sewing; just enough to
fit the mane base.
Finish off by sewing the bottom of the ear.
Work into the lowest loops along the sewn-
together part of the ear for a flat, seamless
join.
16
Sew the left ear so that it’s perfectly
symmetrical to the right ear.

17
 Rotate the eyes so that the coloured part is at
the bottom, and the white highlights are closer
Check the
to the back of the head. Remember, the eye
orientation of
with the extra marker is the left eye and it
the eyes very
goes on the left side of the head.
carefully!

PREPARATION

Check, double-check and check again that

the eyes don’t get sewn on upside down!
Check that the left eye gets sewn on the
left side of the head, and the right eye on Ball up all the loose ends behind the eye.
the right side!
18
POSITION The highest corner of the eye is level with the
bottom of the ear.
Start with the left eye.
Pin both eyes then check the head from all
angles to makes sure the eyes are
symmetrically placed and symmetrically
rotated.

Place the center of the eye in the center of the

open space on the side of the head.

TIP: Your eyes

might be a slightly
different size to
those pictured. Use
this position as a
Rotate the eye so that the coloured part (blue) rough guide but
is level with the center of the head. To find the ultimately, place
center, draw an imaginary line from the MR to the eyes in an
where the last row is sewn closed. This line is aesthetically
also level with the top of the muzzle. pleasing position,
which will be
roughly in the
center of the area
left over after
placing the ears.

19
SEWING

Sew all around the edge of the eye, working

whip stitches into the area directly beneath
the eye in order to avoid long, visible stitches.
If you sew your whip stitches into the area
next to the edge of the eye, instead of
directly beneath the edge of the eye, your
sewing stitches will be longer and clearly
visible.

20
PREPARATION

Stuff the horn firmly. Coarse stuffing is

recommended to help the horn keeps its
shape through handling. Notice the bumps on
the horn and preserve their shape as you
stuff, by stuffing one section at a time and
squeezing the indents. Make sure the stuffing
is well-compacted.

21
POSITION

Locate the rows near the front of the head

that have HDCs. Leaving the last row of HDCs
open, place the horn so that it spans about 3
rows of HDCs.

Check from all angles to make sure it’s

centered. Pin all around the base of the horn.

SEWING

Sew around the horn, working into FLO of the

horn’s stitches.

22
PREPARATION
At one end of the mane, the locks of hair have
bigger gaps between them. At the other end,
there is only 1 stitch open between each lock –
this is the end that must go closest to the
horn.
POSITION
Place the mane base so that it runs from the
head, down the center of the neck. Start by
pinning it directly behind the horn (lying flat in
the center of the head).
23
Pull it down the center of the neck, then pin
the other end (it should end just below the
middle of the neck).
Center it between the ears and pin.
Pin the rest of the mane base in place, along
both sides of the mane.
SEWING
Sew all around the edge of the mane base,
working into the stitches directly beneath the
edge of the mane base (as you did on the eye)
to avoid long, unsightly stitches.
24
If you decide not to sew each lock of hair in
place on the body as detailed in this
chapter, you’ll need to sew the tail stub in
a different manner.

OPTIONAL METHOD FOR ATTACHING THE In the end, the stub should be sewn half way
TAIL: around as illustrated:

Position it as directed in the following

instructions, then sew around the front tip of
it, pressing it into the body as you sew to
blend it. When you’re finished sewing, do not
tie visible knots as directed in the following
instructions, but rather weave the loose end
back and forth until secure, as you did with
the previous attachments.

25
PREFERRED METHOD FOR ATTACHING THE
TAIL:
PREPARATION
Keep the mane hair out of the way with a few
elastic bands on the head.
Arrange all the locks so each one is folded
neatly in half.
POSITION
Leaving 5 rows open from the sewing seam on
the unicorn’s back, use a single pin to hold the
tail stub with its magic ring between the R5
and R6.
Check it from all angles to make sure it’s
centered.
SEWING
Attach the tail with a few stitches to secure
only the tip of the tail stub to the body so it
can still move freely.
Tie a couple of knots to secure your sewing,
then push the needle through the magic ring
so that it comes out the tube of the tail stub.
Don’t cut the yarn.
Cut a 30cm length of hair colour for sewing.
To attach the hair colour for sewing, insert
your needle some distance away from the tail
stub, and bring it out near the tail stub, leaving
a short end visible.
Bring it out at the bottom of the tail, i.e.
where the hair would hang over it when
the unicorn is standing up.
26
Secure the hair colour with a couple of knots,
then cut the short, loose end close to the body
so that it pulls inside the body.
Make sure the sewing thread hangs under the
tail so that it’s accessible to start sewing the
bottom locks of hair first.
PINNING THE LOCKS OF HAIR
Lift the tail so that it’s at a 90-degree angle to
the body (each lock will be the same distance
from the body).
Holding a lock by its fold, bring it straight
down onto the body and pin it to the body at
the fold.
Keep the hair snug up next to the tail stub
when you do this. It is important not to pull
the locks away from the tail stub any
further than necessary, to keep the hair
from taking up a larger portion of the
rump.
Pin each lock in the same manner, all around
the tail stub.
Check that the locks are evenly distributed
around the tail stub, and that they are close to
the stub, not taking more room than
necessary.
27
SEWING THE LOCKS OF HAIR

Starting on the bottom ones, secure each lock

of hair by sewing 2 small stitches into the
edge of it at the center fold where it’s pinned.

Sew your stitches in the same manner as the

eyes and mane base, sewing into the area
directly beneath the edge of the hair-lock to
avoid long, visible stitches.

Since the tail has a lot of movement, it’s a

good idea to secure your sewing with a knot at
Push your needle into the body and bring it
the end.
out at the second lock to sew it in place in the
same manner.
When all the locks are attached, you can pull
the sewing thread into the tube of the tail stub
to sew a couple of knots and secure the
thread, then weave it back inside the body to
hide it. The tail stub will be closed up in the
next step, so the knots will be hidden.

Keep enough tension on your thread for the

stitches to stay secure so the locks don’t Tail attachment is complete.
loosen as you sew, but don’t pull tight enough
to deform the body.

Sew every lock in the same manner.

28

You’re on the
very last step of
the pattern!! :D
CLOSING THE TAIL STUB
Using the body colour you pulled through the
tail stub earlier, sew the tube closed by
weaving the needle into 1 loop of every body-
coloured stitch around the perimeter of the
tube to pull the circle closed like a drawstring.
It may be necessary to go around a second
time to close up the hole completely.
Secure the thread with a knot concealed
between the locks of hair then weave the end
into the body to hide it.
Your magical, most majestic unicorn is
complete! Congratulations!!
What a journey it’s been! Thank you for
joining me on this amazing adventure and I
hope to see you again in the next one!
Scroll on for pictures of Comet, and more
fantastical beasts from my menagerie.
Jessie
29
Read the story
behind Comet’s
pattern design at
Projectarian.com!

30