The Wines of Crete

YIANNIS KARAKASIS MW
The wines of
Crete
The wines of Crete
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM

THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE
EUROPEAN UNION HELLENIC REPUBLIC

Yiannis Karakasis MW
Contents
History 7
Varieties of PGI Crete 12
Whites 13
Vidiano 13
Vilana 17
Dafni 20
Plyto 22
Thrapsathiri 24
Muscat of Spina 26
Assyrtiko 28
A snapshot of white varieties 30
4
The wines of Crete
Reds 32
Mandilari 32
Kotsifali 35
Liatiko 37
Romeiko 40
Other varieties to watch 42
Terroir 45
Wine Syles 51
Traditional (Marouvas, Malvasia) 51-52
Contemporary styles and approaches 54
Crete in Time 57
Vintages 57
Ageing potential 61
Today 63
Future 67
Cretan Gastronomy 71
Beyond Wine 79
Notes 80
About the Author 82
5
6
The wines of Crete
History
The beautiful island of Crete It is not until around 9500 BC that humans
boasts a long history that goes move from hunter-gatherers to becoming
back to the Late Pleistocene farmers in the Neolithic Age. When does wine
or Upper Palaeolithic periods appear on the island of Crete?
(129,000–11,700 years ago).
Archaeological findings suggest that vine
A recent study by Dr Thomas
growing and winemaking have a history of
Strasser of the petroglyphs (rock
about 4,000 years in Crete (Bronze Age). It is
engravings) at Asphendou
unknown how the Cretans learned how to make
Cave, located in Sphakia, in
wine, though. It is assumed that since they had
western Crete, re-assesses the
commercial relations with the Phoenicians and
dating of these petroglyphs and
the Egyptians, winemaking was introduced
palaeontological findings using
from those cultures.
digital imaging. An image of the
Cretan dwarf deer, Candiacervus Excavations in Myrtos, southern Crete,
that lived at least 21,500 years revealed two pre-palatial Minoan settlements
ago confirms that the rock (Fournou Korifi, Pyrgos) dating back to 2800–
carvings at the cave are the oldest 2150 BC, when they were probably destroyed
figural art found in Greece.1 by fire. Pyrgos was resettled around 1900 BC.
Analysis of organic residue (pressed grapes,
seeds, skins, stems) found on fragments of
amphorae confirms the existence of wine and
include indications of usage of resin from the
detected diterpene resin acids. Also, in Myrtos,
analysis of a tripod cauldron from 1900–1700
BC revealed wine with resin and oak lactones
(volatile compounds that are key to oak aroma
in wine). From about the same time, findings
from Apodoulos in the Valley of Amari have
revealed traces of wine containing terebinth tree
resin.2
7
The most popular type of press found at many sites of the

mid-2nd millennium BC is a clay bin with a spout that is often
accompanied by a clay receptacle. The relatively small size of
these presses implies that quantities were not significant. Still,
the complexity and the frequency with which they are found
in Zakros, Paleokastro and Gournia, state the economic and
cultural emphasis of viticulture in certain areas. In most of the
2nd millennium BC, a part of this production is sealed and
recorded in Minoan and Mycenaean entries.3
The Vathypetro complex, south of Archanes, was constructed

around 1580 BC at the beginning of the Late Minoan IA
period and badly damaged around 1550 BC, perhaps by an
earthquake. The south sector of the building, which includes
a wine press (one of the oldest in the world), was rebuilt
as a farmhouse and industrial centre after the 1550 BC
devastation, and was finally destroyed around 1470 BC.
Discoveries of tombs dated between 2500-2000 BC illustrate

exact images of grape presses. Many well-preserved containers
of wine have been found in the underground cellars of the
palace of King Minos in Knossos.4 Multiple findings from
settlements all around Crete, like amphorae, Minoan archives
with recorded production and trade of wines, illustrations
in the Minoan palaces, are a testament to the central role
wine played in the lives of Cretans. The name Oinops (wine-
coloured) is found in Linear B tablets at Knossos, and Homer
repeats this in his writings.
Some other findings suggest that Cretan wine was exported,

even in the very early days. Egyptian murals depict Cretan
ships and Cretans unloading their merchandise, among which
we see amphorae that probably carried wine. Many shipwrecks
confirm that wine was an essential object of trade.
In 2003, Greek archaeologist Elpida Hatjidaki received

funding from the Institute for Aegean Prehistory to search
for early ships near Crete. She had some initial evidence from
findings by Jacques Cousteau in 1976. About 100 metres
off the island of Pseira (an islet in the Gulf of Mirabello in
northeastern Crete), she discovered multiple cups, jugs and
The Phaistos Disc amphorae. Philip Betancourt, a Minoan pottery expert who
8
The wines of Crete
co-directed excavations at Pseira from 1986– testimony of the trade relations with the East,
1996, is convinced that they belong to a wreck Cyprus, Syria and Egypt.
(although no wood was found) because of the
Following the Trojan War, the Dorians invaded
extensive group of ceramic vessels that date to
Crete in 1100 BC. The first two centuries were
the same period (Middle Minoan IIB, 1800–
a dark period, for which not much is known.
1700/1675 BC).5
There was a short-lived renaissance in the 8th
The sudden disappearance of all traces of century BC, with renewed commercial and
Minoan civilization around 1600 BC is believed naval activity, colonization of Sicily, Etruria and
to be related to the explosion of the Santorini France’s coast Marseille. Unfortunately, this
volcano. impressive period was abruptly interrupted in
the 6th century BC and commerce faded. Crete
Following the disappearance of the Minoan
entered a period of decline, with wars marking
civilization, after the volcanic eruption of
the following centuries.6
Santorini, Crete was invaded by the Achaeans
from the Peloponnese, which started the Post- The Gortyn Code, an inscription dated to the
palatial or Mycenaean Era of Crete (1400–1100 first half of the 5th century BC, was a legal code
BC). Despite the recession it underwent, the of the civil law of the ancient Greek city-state of
economy of this era continued to be based on Gortyn in southern Crete. It is considered the
exports of wine, olive oil, herbs, etc. There is first coded set of laws in Europe and Greece.
9
Among others, it included a series of rules Latin poets and writers of the time praise
referring to vine cultivation. Cretan wine (Virgil praises Greek grape
varieties, and Pliny describes Greek wines).
Under Roman rule (67 BC–330 AD), the wine
Hippocrates refers to the therapeutic property
trade largely migrated to Crete and Rhodes.
of wine and Dioscurides in his book De Materia
The winemakers of Crete were constantly
Medica (1st century AD) writes: ‘Wine made
improving their winemaking techniques. At
from sun-dried grapes, or grapes desiccated
that time, they produced excellent sweet wines
on the vine and rubbed, becomes sweet and is
that were distributed through Rome to other
called Cretan, or protropos or Pramnian, and if
known places in the Empire. Amphorae from this
the pulp is cooked, it is called siraios or epsima’.8
period can be found in Lyon, Switzerland and
many villages in Italy. It is also known that the During the first Byzantine era of Crete (330–
trading of vine cuttings was of great importance, 824 AD), the viticultural tradition flourishes.
which led to the spread of Greek varieties to Christian Orthodox tradition was closely
the ancient world. Archaeologists working related to wine. It is included in religious rites,
in Pompeii accidentally discovered several which led to the same growth and spread as in
amphorae believed to be 2,000 years old. From ancient times. Crete is then taken over by Arabs
their shape, it is thought they are from Crete and (824–961 AD), Mozarabs and Moors, who had
would have contained sweet Cretan wine.7 On very loose ties with other Arabic centres and
one of these, an inscription looks like Greek. based their survival on piracy and oppression
10
The wines of Crete
of the indigenous population. The Cretans were Venetians fought the Ottoman Empire to rescue
cut off from the rest of civilization. In 961 AD, the Kingdom of Crete with help from most
Crete was reclaimed by the Byzantine Empire European rulers. In the mid-17th century, Crete
(961–1204 AD). Still, we have little information was the last bastion of the Christian East. Saving
about these times, except that Venetian traders Crete was a matter of honor for the Christian
showed interest in the island as early as the 12th world and of significant political and military
century. importance. It set the boundaries between two
contrasting worlds.
In 1204 AD, Crete is conquered by the
Venetians (1204–1669 AD). The first two Crete was defeated and seized by the Ottoman
centuries are marked by turmoil and constant Empire, which ruled the island from 1669–1898.
revolutions of the Cretans against the Venetians. During the first fifty years, the economy of
It is not until the first half of the 15th century Crete was terrible. The population had shrunk
that stability is gained; economic growth due to the wars, illnesses, poverty, executions
culminates the following century. Interest and devastating taxation. At the beginning
turns towards viticulture and the famous of the 18th century, some trade began, but
Cretan Malvasia wine. The variety Malvasia winemaking was restricted. According to the
or Monemvasia was transferred to Crete and botanist Piton de Tournefort, who arrived on
other parts of Europe from Monemvasia around Crete in April 1700 and stayed for three months,
1340 AD to increase the notorious sweet the Cretans used heavy, smooth stones to press
wine production. As J. Robinson refers to it, the grapes. This information is interesting as it
this variety, found with similar names around is known that Crete had many mobile presses
Europe, takes its name from Monemvasia’s even from the 16th century. One would have to
harbour in the Peloponnese. assume that all the wooden parts of the presses
were burned during the long Cretan War, and
It was planted in the region of the Malevizio, in
people returned to ancient methods of pressing
northwestern Heraklion, known as Candia at
grapes.10
that time (Malvasia di Candia). It was exported
to the whole of Europe and Britain. In 1512 AD, Crete was united with Greece in 1913.
Cretan wine production reached 100,000 tons. Wars and turmoil mark the years that follow,
About half was consumed locally, and the rest and viticulture survives mainly through
shipped (35,000 tons from Candia and 15,000 individual families. In 1922 the refugees from
tons from Rethymno). In 1554 AD, production Asia Minor brought viticulture of Sultanina
in Chania reached 14,000 barrels. Due to this grape (Thompson Seedless) to the island,
constant growth of viticulture in Crete, the which covered most viticulture (25,000 ha in
available area for wheat production shrank, Heraklion). It wasn’t until the 1990s, when
which led to restrictions on viticulture in a the new European Union law abolished the
‘policy of wheat sufficiency’.9 protection of Sultanina, that Cretan wine was
reinvented.
From 1645–1669 AD, Crete enters a long,
bloody period known as the Cretan War. The
11
Varieties of
PGI Crete
12
The wines of Crete
Whites
VIDIANO
THE SWEET-SCENTED CHARMER
Vidiano is the recent success Its reputation is on the rise because it combines
story of Crete. A variety fruity, textural and mineral elements in a
rediscovered in the 1980s that supremely balanced wine. Vidiano produces
is only recently showing its true wines that range from fruity and aromatic
potential. It currently covers to complex, mineral and elegant. The style
a small part of Crete’s total depends on the altitude at which the grapes are
vineyard area, approximately grown, vine age, and winemaking decisions.
200 ha. Nevertheless, it is
It is increasingly being explored in all styles
continuously expanding and is
from sparkling, unoaked, oaked, and currently
slowly gaining the position that
even orange wines.
Vilana occupied. Mainly found
in the prefectures of Heraklion, Typical aromas include peaches,
Rethymno and Chania, but lately, apricot, bergamot and herbs, with
it has also emigrated to Kavala a mineral undertone. Whether
(Pangeo) and Pieria in Northern oaked or not, it will always retain
Greece. a solid vein of acidity.
History
It is a noble indigenous variety of Crete,11
cultivated from the 13th or 14th centuries, and
is of uncertain origin. It seems there are different
versions concerning its name and origin.12
One source suggests it originated in Lassithi

and lent its name from Vidis. This old Venetian
family lived in Heraklion around the middle
13
of the 13th century and owned property in he was told that Haroula Spinthiropoulou
Lassithi. In contrast, another source suggests from the Institute of Vines had attempted
that it was cultivated in Heraklion. Its name is microvinifications of Vidiano and had concluded
derived from the village of Avdou, named after that it is a variety with superior characteristics.
the Prophet Avdiu, and was later transferred Around the same time, he met two viticulturists
to Rethymno by refugees who settled in from a neighbouring village, Agios Thomas,
‘Avdanites’, a small town in Mylopotamos. who were already growing Vidiano. They
claimed that they had found Vidiano, among
Other sources indicate that in the 1970s,
other varieties, on old terraces in Fourfouras in
there were approximately 70 ha of plantings in
Rethymno.
Melabes of Rethymno and that this is regarded
as the birthplace, or point zero, of Vidiano.13
Either way, it was not until the 1980s that it was In the vineyard
discovered and was experimentally vinified in
Vidiano is genetically close to Lagorthi and
the late 1990s.14
a minor degree to other Cretan varieties
According to Nikos Douloufakis, one of Tharpsathiri and Vilana.15 Moreover, it is
the first winemakers to focus on Vidiano in vigorous, with high but unstable productivity
2000, at a time when he was in the process of due to uneven ripening.16 It is mid-early
restructuring his vineyard in Dafnes, Heraklion, budding and ripening from mid-August to early
14
The wines of Crete
September. To control its high productivity, it is cooler regions. Planted in Heraklion, in the
planted on slopes and poor limestone soils. broader Dafnes area (50% of total plantings in
Heraklion). Rethymno and Chania boast some
Furthermore, it is drought-resistant but
old vineyards.
susceptible to powdery mildew, leafroll virus
and grape moths. It retains its acidity even at full The Ideal terroir: slopes for good
ripeness. drainage, but moisture retention is also
needed; therefore, sandy soils are not
So far, Vidiano presents little clonal diversity
suitable. Poor limestone and rocky soils
with two biotypes under research.17 The one
are favoured, and an altitude of 300–550
with the more spherical berries is considered
m (below that, the vines may be too
inferior.
productive and higher up will possibly give
Older own-rooted vineyards, mainly in the wines that are too lean), with long pruning.
Rethymno area, are head-trained and spur
In Dafnes: The vineyards are located northeast
pruned. In contrast, newer vineyards, on grafted
of Psiloritis Mountain. The topography of the
rootstock,18 are wire-trained, spur-pruned, with
broader area is shaped by rolling hills, almost
vertical shoot positioned trellis systems. There
parallel to each other, extending from the
are also patches of Vidiano trained in the pergola
northern part of the prefecture to the southern,
system in Asites village in Heraklion. This is
at 300-500 m. The vineyards are planted on the
a ‘V’ shaped system adopted, which provides
slopes of these hills, with eastern or western
the grapes with more shade, resulting in a
exposure.
more restrained and mineral expression. Bush
vines would be ideal for the variety, but there The valleys formed between the hills serve as
are considerable difficulties involved (labour natural canals that transfer the conducive chilled
intensive).19 breezes from the Cretan Sea and maintain
excellent temperature levels during the summer.
Nevertheless, some spurs produce much,
Rainfall is rare during the summer months, so
whereas others not at all. For this reason,
plants and grapes are not susceptible to fungal
producers are experimenting with long Guyot
disease (mainly when on limestone soils with
pruning, which may correct the unevenness in
good drainage).
the production. In the first few years, production
levels are higher, but this stabilizes at lower levels In Rethymno: there is a significant percentage
as the vine ages.20 Best results are shown when of old vines over 80 years old,21 whereas, in
the grapes are harvested at 12.5 to 13 Be, which Heraklion, the oldest vines are 30 to 40 years
produce wine in ‘full’ colours at 13.5% abv. old. Essentially in Rethymno, most Vidiano
vines are found in Melabes (Agios Vassilios),
covering approximately 40 ha22, and Fourfouras
Terroir (Amari). In these areas, Vidiano plantings
Vidiano is a variety that produces well on represent 80% or more of the vineyard area.
different soils. Still, it does best on calcareous, They are planted predominantly on clay-loam
clay-calcareous, granitic, poor soils, slopes and soils with schist. Old vines are more resistant
15
to disease and yield approximately 40 hl/ha.

Their production is significantly reduced, but
Wine styles
they deliver high concentration. The wine from Vidiano can vary from fresh, green and
these vines has a deep and concentrated nose. mineral (similar to a ripe Sauvignon
The fruit is focused on a honeyed character with Blanc) to ripe with intense stone fruit
intense minerality, aromas (resembling Northern Rhône
Viognier).
In Chania, Vidiano is a recent discovery; earlier
ripening compared to Dafnes.23
Classic fruity/mineral:
fermentation in tank is characterised by aromatic wines
with a bouquet of citrus and stone fruit, together with floral
aromas that will give way to a more complex and mineral
character as the wine ages
Creamy:
achieved by barrel fermentation that gives fuller wines with
ageing potential. Lees ageing is becoming increasingly
common to provide more mouthfeel and added texture.
However, it can strip the wine of its benchmark elegant
aromatics if overused
Orange:
spontaneous fermentation in amphora can be followed by
barrel maturation. This results in a rich, aromatic and zesty
expression, with a light tannic grip on the finish, depending
on the degree of skin contact before, during and after
fermentation
Sparkling:
traditional method style wines with considerable lees ageing
Blends:
with other Cretan and international varieties, such as Plyto
16
The wines of Crete
VILANA
THE CLASSIC GREEK WHITE
It has mainly been explored in an unoaked

The naturally high-yielding
style, either blended or as a single varietal. Still,
Vilana covers approximately
there have been some new efforts with barrel
300 ha. It continues to hold its
maturation or a single-vineyard approach.
position as queen of the whites,
although the rise of Vidiano is It usually expresses a medium
seriously challenging this. It is intensity aroma of orange or
considered the primary pillar lemon zest, pears, peaches, melon,
of the Cretan vineyard and is and floral notes. It can produce
produced almost throughout the some thought-provoking wines
island. It is on its best manners that can age. However, most are
when grown at elevation and on destined for early consumption,
slopes with good drainage. This as it is a variety prone to
helps retain a subtle freshness, oxidation.
which balances the relatively high
alcohol.
History
Vilana is another Cretan variety possibly
cultivated for many centuries in eastern Crete.
Professor Vassilis Logothetis mentions (1975)
that its name derives from the Latin word
villanus, which means rustic. It probably belongs
to the varieties that once participated in the
Malvasia wine blend,24 further described in the
styles chapter below.
In the vineyard
Vilana is genetically close to Vidiano and to
another variety from Achaia that is no longer
cultivated. It is both vigorous and productive,
sensitive to mildews and botrytis when humidity
increases.
17
So far, Vilana shows high clonal diversity with Heraklion, and holds a separate PDO. Vilana
five biotypes under research.25 should comprise a minimum of 85% of a blend.
Older vines are head-trained, whereas younger Peza PDO: elevation starts at 300 metres and
vines are wire-trained.26 It buds in late March, reaches up to 600 metres. The mountains in
flowers in mid-May and ripens from the third the centre of the island protect the vineyards
week of August. from the warm south winds, which can
cause problems to the vine growing cycle.
Simultaneously, the chilly north winds (absence
Terroir of mountains on the north side) help moderate
Heraklion and Sitia are its two main terroirs, the summer temperatures.
but the broader Heraklion region predominates.
The region’s climate is the typical
In Peza of Heraklion, it is vinified as a single
Mediterranean climate, with an average annual
varietal. In Sitia, it is part of a blend with
rainfall of 650 mm. The soil includes limestone.
Thrapsathiri (30%), which boosts its aromatic
intensity. Both areas are PDO designated. Favourable areas for Vilana are around
Chandakas-Candia includes a broader area of Houdetsi, Panorama and Stirona.
18
The wines of Crete
Sitia PDO: is mainly a semi-mountainous In Sitia, Vilana complements Thrapsathiri,

and mountainous area with the main spread adding tension and freshness to the Sitia PDO
of vines between 300 and 700 metres. The blend established in the late 1990s. It must be
soils show vast diversity due to their mixing 30% of the blend. It is a successful blend as it
by the pressures created by the tension of the also gives an extra grassy element to the nose.
European and Asian tectonic plates exerted Moreover, old Vilana vines behave like an
during different geological periods. They differ Assyrtiko; expressive of minerality and higher
significantly even at small distances from each acidity.
other; phyllite, a metamorphic rock created from
Chandakas-Candia PDO: a broader area of
slate, on the mountain masses, versus clay and
Heraklion, in which Vilana should comprise a
sand on the plateaux.
minimum of 85% of the blend.
The region’s climate is the Mediterranean,
with a typical mild and wet winter and snowfall
mainly limited to mountainous areas. The
Wine styles
average temperature in the summer months is Vilana can vary from classically Greek,
25.5°C, whereas the maximum temperature is lemony and crisp, to full-bodied and
recorded in July and the minimum in January. creamy, echoing a ripe Chardonnay.
The average rainfall is approximately 600 mm,
and its distribution is from October to April.
Classic fruity/mineral:
fruity and classic from the lowlands versus the more
restrained and structured from vineyards up to 600 m
elevation
Creamy:
achieved by barrel fermentation that gives fuller wines
with improved ageing potential. Increasingly a part of oak
maturation is seen, usually for some months. Large older
oak vessels are preferred, with a shorter maturation period
Blends:
with other Cretan and international varieties, especially
aromatic and semi-aromatic varieties, such as
Thrapsathiri, Malvasia or Muscat, to boost intensity
19
DAFNÍ
THE BAY LEAF SUCCESS STORY
It is planted in just a few hectares and mainly

Among the big stars of Vidiano
produced in an unoaked style by few producers
and Liatiko, Dafní has perhaps
for the time being. However, success in the
little chance to get full attention.
international markets encourages more
However, it could be a candidate
experimentation and investment.
in the Oscars’ supporting role
category with its aromatic Distinctly herbal in its aroma
distinctiveness. Very few ranges from bay leaf, sage,
varieties have such a particular rosemary, and flowers or herbs
aroma. Although fragrant, like to ripe stone fruit and ginger.
Sauvignon Blanc, its aromas have It makes wines of intense
nothing to do with gooseberry personality that are moderate in
and cat’s pee, but rather with Bay their alcohol and acidity.
Laurel (Laurus Nobilis) and dried
herbs.
History
Unfortunately, as is the case with many Cretan
varieties, there is no abundance of information
until the 11th century.27 Its name is derived from
its aromas of bay leaf (dáfni in Greek). The Dafní
variety was saved from inevitable extinction
when in the early 1990s, it was planted in the
Psarades vineyard28 at 480 m elevation by the
Lyrarakis family.
This variety may well have been used to

produce wine during the last Minoan period.
On a copper vessel of this period found in
the Eileithyia cave, in Tsoutsouras of the
Monefatsiou region, the name Dafnitis Oinos
was mentioned.
20
The wines of Crete
most diseases and suitable for sustainable

In the vineyard viticulture. So far, Dafní presents little clonal
There are now approximately 8 ha on diversity with two biotypes under research.29
the island, mainly in the centre. Still, more
producers are keen on experimenting with
the variety. It is late-ripening, ripens in mid-
Terroir
September, and is trained either as a bush vine Planted mainly in Heraklion at altitudes and
or on wires. already produced as a single vineyard by a
couple of producers.
It looks very much like a table grape (big
bunches and berries) and is well suited to
climate change. It is furthermore resistant to Wine styles
Single varietal:
wines with zesty acidity and intense aromas
Blends:
with other Cretan varieties such as Vilana, Plyto, Muscat
and Thrapsathiri
21
PLYTÓ
THE EXTREME GRAPE
It is mainly produced in an unoaked style

Plytó is another indigenous
by just a few producers for the time being.
Cretan variety, which is following
Nevertheless, success in the international
the same path to success as Dafní.
markets encourages more experimentation and
It seems to have conquered
investment.
producers’ hearts as a promising
variety that has given single A white variety saved from
varietal examples. It is still being extinction on Crete, with an aroma
explored and will probably of lemon, grapefruit, peach, and
shine as it retains acidity and herbal notes. It usually makes a
is drought-resistant, making it light-bodied, medium in alcohol,
suitable for extreme conditions. mouth-watering wine. It is often
blended with Vidiano, which adds
body.
History
Plytó was saved from extinction in the same
way as Dafní. Both varieties were planted in
the Psarades vineyard, central Crete, at 480
m elevation, in the early 1990s. It was found
among Vilana or Liatiko vines in old vineyards.
In the vineyard
Plytó is a vigorous and productive variety
with large bunches of medium-large berries
susceptible to downy mildew and botrytis bunch
rot.30 It prefers soils with good drainage and
performs better on clay-loam soils. Nowadays,
it covers approximately 12 ha31 on the island,
mainly in the centre. Still, more producers are
keen on experimenting with the variety. It
is a mid-ripening variety that ripens in early
22
The wines of Crete
September (buds in mid-March, flowers in mid-

May) and is either head-trained or wire-trained.
Terroir
Planted mainly at altitude in Heraklion and
So far, Plytó presents moderate clonal diversity
already produced as a single vineyard wine.
with three biotypes under research.32
Wine styles
Single varietal:
wines with fresh acidity (higher than that of Dafní)
Blends:
with other Cretan varieties such as Vidiano, Thrapsathiri,
Dafní and Vilana
23
THRAPSATHIRI
A CRETAN PROMISE
With controlled yields of approximately 70hl/

Thrapsathiri is the third of the
ha, it has a stunning aromatic profile that retains
rare varieties, following Dafní
its freshness and fatty texture on the palate.33
and Plytó, to which producers
A promising grape (blended traditionally with
are showing increasing interest
Vilana to boost its aromatic intensity) shows an
and can be found in varietal
excellent affinity to oak.
expressions—planted already in
100 ha and expanding. Compared to Dafni and Plytó, it
produces fuller wines, fruitier,
while retaining acidity, primarily
when grown at a higher elevation.
Aromatically not very intense, it
delivers aromas mainly of tropical
fruit.
History
It has long been thought close or identical
to Athiri, according to Krimpas (1943) and
Logothetis (1965). However, recent DNA
profiling shows it is more closely related
to Vidiano than to Athiri. It has shown a
close relationship to Begleri (which may be
considered a coloured mutation) and Dafnato,
suggesting a common origin.34
It allegedly used to make Malvasia wine, though

there is no concrete evidence of which varieties
were used (see below in Styles chapter).
Ιn the vineyard
It is cultivated mainly on Crete (Heraklion,
Sitia) and is found in the Cyclades and the
24
Dodecanese. It is a very vigorous, productive
and mid-ripening variety that ripens in late
Terroir
August and is either head-trained or wire- It prefers light calcareous soils to control its
trained. It is resistant to drought and downy naturally high vigour. It is used as the supporting
mildew but susceptible to powdery mildew and act of Vilana in Sitia PDO (30% of the blend).
botrytis bunch rot. There, it seems to be at its best as it achieves the
much-desired drainage in Sitia’s sandy soils.
Wine styles
Single varietal:
with fresh acidity, full body that sees oak treatment
Blends:
with other Cretan varieties such as Μuscat, Dafní, Vilana,
Plytó and Assyrtiko
25
MUSCAT OF SPINA
THE PERFUMED ONE
It is so fragrant that even tsikoudia (the

The Muscat family is one of the
traditional Cretan distillate) made from Spina
oldest families of Vitis vinifera
Muscat grapes retains the variety’s intense
cultivated in almost all of the
aroma and can be recognised immediately from
world’s wine regions. In Greece, it
the first sip.
is famous for Samos wines from
small-berried Muscat or Muscat Muscat of Spina gives dry and
Blanc à Petits Grains. The Cretan sweet wines, with an intense aroma,
Muscat of Spina took its name dominated by flower blossoms,
from the mountain village of hyacinth, jasmine, gardenia, citrus,
Spina, in the province of Selino, peach, apricot, and herbs like
Chania and is the most aromatic chamomile, supported by fresh
variety in the Cretan vineyard. It acidity. A variety on the rise, with
is a clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits more plantings expected over the
Grains, the high-quality clone of following years.
Muscat, planted at approximately
150 ha on Crete.
History
The general consensus is that Greece is the
homeland of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.35 The
Greeks are said to have transferred the variety to
Italy and from there to France. Crete has a long
history, primarily with dry Muscat wines.
In the vineyard
Moderately productive and vigorous, adapts
well to a plethora of soils, even poor ones.
Sensitive to powdery mildew and resistant to
downy mildew, it ripens in late August.
Its grapes are small, with small stems and thin

golden-yellow skin. They are quite sensitive and
require particular attention from the grower.
26
The wines of Crete
In Maza and Temenia, the soil is richer and

Terroir thus produce higher yields. The vines in these
It is grown around the villages of Maza and locations are extremely old, approaching
Spina in Central Crete, at 625 and 750 m 120 years of age, and are planted at 800 m
elevation, respectively. However, vineyards elevation. They could be considered of historical
are found between 500–900 m.36 These importance as they have been grown on the
areas, according to Professor Stavrakakis, island long before the arrival of phylloxera on
present similarities to the highlands of Samos, Crete in the 1970s. They are trained unusually
attributing a vein of acidity to the wines. as trunkless gobelets.37
In Spina, with the higher altitude, the soil is Apart from the broader area of Chania, Muscat
gravelly, and the vines are gobelet-trained of Spina is now planted extensively in the
bush vines. Unfortunately, only 5 ha of Muscat Heraklion vineyards.
plantings exist there.
Wine styles
Single varietal:
to express its intense primary aromas
Blends:
with other Cretan varieties to help lift the aromatic
intensity
27
ASSYRTIKO
FRUIT AND MINERALITY
Having probably originated on Santorini (it’s

Assyrtiko is the flagship
difficult to know for sure as there are no written
Greek variety that opened the
sources), Assyrtiko is now planted throughout
discussion about Greek wine and
Greece and as far afield as Cyprus, Italy,
found its way into top restaurants
Lebanon, South Africa, the USA and Australia.
worldwide. It gives intense
Recent DNA profiling has suggested a possible
wines, powerful and taut, with
parent-offspring relationship with indigenous
a magnificent combination of
varieties Platani and Gaidouria. However, its
ripeness and razor-sharp acidity,
exact ancestry remains unknown. Of the 1,200
not to mention its trademark salty
ha of vineyards on Thira, Assyrtiko accounts for
fingerprint. It is a grape blessed
1,084 ha (85%). This constitutes almost 60% of
with high levels of phenolics and
the 1,900 ha planted around Greece.
structure that take time to unfold,
revealing its layers of complexity
only after two or three years in
the bottle.
28
The wines of Crete
Terroirs and styles In Crete

Assyrtiko from the (other) islands often sits Total plantings of Assyrtiko on Crete cover
somewhere between the broader, fruitier style 60 ha, with an upward trend evident in recent
of mainland Greece and the intense salinity years. Its style is fruity but retains the high
of Santorini. The best examples exhibit natural acidity of the variety, meaning that
the tension, energy and complexity of great outstanding quality can be produced and in
terroirs, in addition to typical Assyrtiko traits higher quantities.
such as high acidity, a full-body, and a distinct
Planted all around Crete, with older vines in
mineral character. When planted on poor soils
Sitia, where it was produced decades ago, it is
(limestone, rock and other stony soils) with
often added to Thrapsathiri to boost the acidity
yields not exceeding 35 hl/ha, island Assyrtiko
of the blend. It is perfectly adapted to the area
can display Santorini-like characteristics,
and is well suited to sandy-clay soils, retaining
despite being outside its natural home. Acidity
its acidity and preserving the delicate citrus
may be lower, but the aromatic and structural
fruit aromatics. There are approximately 8 ha of
elements are preserved.
plantings in Sitia.
In Heraklion, it is at its best at elevation, where

it ripens in late August to early September.38
Wine styles
Single varietal:
usually unoaked and fresh, expressing a combination of fruit and
minerality
Blends:
with other Cretan varieties to provide structure and backbone
to the blend
29
A snapshot
of white varieties
30
The wines of Crete
Aromas Acid Body
Vidiano ▲▲ ▲▲ ▲▲
Vilana ▲ ▲ ▲
Dafni ▲▲▲ ▲ ▲
Plyto ▲▲ ▲▲1/2 ▲
▲ ▲1/2 ▲▲
Thrapsathiri
Muscat of Spina ▲▲▲ ▲▲ ▲
31
Reds
MANDILARI
THE CRETAN GRAPE
Mandilari comes from Crete but Its plantings cover approximately 500 ha,
is found all around the Eastern making it the most planted variety on the island.
Aegean. It is considered one of Despite all its dynamics and ageing ability, its
Crete’s greatest red grapes, with potential yields are critical and, if not restricted,
very high tannins and notable will result in thin and astringent wines.
acidity. However, it can be almost
deficient in alcohol unless yields Aromatically it expresses delicate
are restricted. It produces deeply aromas of cherries, plums, and
liquorice. Making single-varietal
coloured wines, rather light-
wines from a grape with such
bodied, that can age well.
contrasting characteristics can
be a challenge, which is why
Mandilari has traditionally been
blended with other varieties,
such as Kotsifali on Crete or
Mavrotragano on Santorini.
History
The grape’s origins have been traced to Crete,
but it is found in Paros and Rhodes. Confusingly,
it is known by different names in different places,
including Amorgiano on Rhodes, Mandilaria
on Paros, and Mavrokoudoura (a small-berried
clone) on Evia. It is similarly grown in other parts
of Central Greece, such as Attica and Boeotia. In
Crete, it is called Mandilari.
32
The wines of Crete
The name comes from the word mandila, which due to the very thick skins, the wines can be
is a square piece of cloth used to cover the head overly tannic and amongst the most intensely
of both men and women in Crete. A mandila was coloured reds of Greece, rich in phenolics and
used for head protection and to wrap the snack antioxidants.
of bread, tomatoes, and olives workers took with
Ιt is a vigorous and productive variety prone
them to the fields or was tied in a pouch to carry
to downy mildew, with medium to large-sized
the grapes during harvest.
bunches. Ιt ripens late, in mid-September.
Historically, Mandilari was an essential variety The biggest challenge is to adapt viticulture to
for the blend of red Vinsanto on Santorini. It is achieve better ripening and tannin maturation.
still possible to find complex, sun-dried, sweet Therefore successful clonal selection, together
red wines in addition to dry versions. Sometimes with the choice of pruning method and
a percentage of sun-dried grapes were added to green harvesting to limit yields, will provide
the fermentation process to beef up Mandilari’s groundbreaking progress in the cultivation of
intensity and alcohol levels in dry wines. this grape. Furthermore, it is advantageous
for Mandilari to be planted in cooler locations
in order to achieve full phenolic ripeness and
In the vineyard preserve the grape’s delicate aromas.
Although a late-ripening variety, Mandilari
So far, Mandilari presents modest clonal
produces light-bodied wines low in alcohol
diversity with two biotypes under research.39
(10–11% abv) that lack intense aromas, flavours,
and concentration on the mid-palate. However,
33
It should also be noted that at the southeastern

Terroir end of the zone, in Vathypetro, the oldest
The variety behaves best in areas with hot known Minoan wine press (16th century BC)
summers, low altitudes, and light and dry soils. was found, which is evidence of the ancient
It is susceptible to fungal diseases during connection of the area with vineyards and wine.
the ripening period when planted in humid
In Archanes, Mandilari is blended with
locations or rainy years, particularly botrytis
Kotsifali, thereby providing brightness, structure
bunch rot.40
and an intense purple colour. Better balanced
In Archanes PDO (a minor part of the Mandilari is produced when the maturation of
blend with Kotsifali): The vineyards of the all the grape’s elements are fully ripe.
PDO Archanes are located at altitudes from
In Peza and Candia PDO (a minor part of
300 to 450 m, planted on terraces, on gravel
the blend with Kotsifali): Τhe twin valley of
soils with a high proportion of limestone. The
Peza, which lies to the east, has many similarities
climate is typically Mediterranean, with an
to Archanes. Still, the altitude is higher (500–
average rainfall of 600 mm per year and long
600 m). Because of lighter soils, a more delicate
rainless summers. Most of the vineyards have a
style of Mandilari is produced, which is suitable
southerly exposure. They are adjacent to valleys
for rosé wines.
and forest areas at a short distance from the sea.
Candia PDO includes a broader area which co-
The centre of Archanes is dominated
ferments with Kotsifali at 30–70%.
by Youchtas, a low mountain (811 m) of
archaeological importance. Τhe vineyards of In Sitia and Dafnes (a minor part of the
the zone start a little south of Heraklion, almost blend with Kotsifali): Plays a minor role
immediately after the archaeological site of supplementing Liatiko in Sitia and Dafnes PDO.
Knossos, where many archaeological storage However, it is not mandatory (it can be up to a
vessels have been unearthed, among which are maximum of 20%.)
amphorae for storing wine.
Wine styles
Single varietal:
Wines rarely achieve more than 12.5% abv. The few single
varietal wines need ageing for the tannins to soften
Blends:
It is blended in Peza or Archanes PDO with Kotsifali or with
international varieties in other areas
34
The wines of Crete
KOTSIFALI
CRETE IN A GLASS
Κotsifali could probably be Relatively low in tannins and acidity but high
considered the alter ego of in alcohol, it often needs the support of robust
Mandilari, in the way Merlot Mandilari. However, producers increasingly
is so considered for Cabernet experiment with single varietal fruity versions as
Sauvignon in Bordeaux. It is they seem to value its noble characteristics—a
grown mainly on Crete, where promising variety.
it is one the most important red
varieties. It makes wines that are Intensely aromatic, with aromas
not very deeply coloured and tend of red berries like cherry, plum
and strawberry, sweet spices and
to turn to a brick colour relatively
Mediterranean herbs.
quickly. It is widely planted,
covering an area of 400 ha.
35
period in humid locations and rainy years,

History sometimes intense, from botrytis.42
Contrary to Mandilari, it is primarily planted
In Archanes PDO (a major part of the
on Crete. The name comes from the word kotsyfi
blend with Mandilari): Archanes is the
(blackbird) and is linked to the bird’s preference
western valley that runs up the eastern foothills
for its medium-sized berries.
of Mt Youchtas, within sight of Psilirotis.
Gravelly soils at a maximum 450 m elevation.
In the vineyard Kotsifali is well-suited to the soil and climatic
Ιt is a vigorous, productive and disease-resistant conditions of Archanes and gives high-quality
variety somewhat prone to downy mildew and wines with intensely aromatic characteristic. In
botrytis, with medium-large bunches. Ιt ripens contrast, Mandilari offers wines of high acidity
in mid to late August to early September. The with intense purple colour. No specific blending
prime challenge is balancing its high alcohol proportions exist, although a 75%–25%
and providing colour and tannins to the must, Kotsifali/Mandilari is often adopted.
all-natural traits of Mandilari, its ideal partner.
In Peza and Candia (a major part of the
However, better viticulture and lower yields
blend with Mandilari): Peza is the eastern
have led to more interesting single varietal
valley of Mt Youchtas with limestone soils at
wines that present a more structured and
500–600 m elevation. It produces red wines
balanced version of the variety.
of Kotsifali and Mandilari mainly in a ratio of
So far, Kotsifali presents high clonal diversity 75%–25%.
with five biotypes under research.41
In Candia PDO, a broader area, it is co-
fermented with Mandilari in a proportion of
Terroir 30–70%.
The variety behaves best in areas with hot

summers, low altitudes, and light and dry soils. Wine styles
There are infestations during the ripening
Single varietal:
Either in a simple fruity style or a more structured and age-
worthy style that needs time to tame the tannins.
Blends:
It is blended in Peza or Archanes PDO with Mandilari or with
international varieties in other areas
36
The wines of Crete
LIATIKO
BACK TO THE FUTURE
Although very dark-skinned, it makes

Liatiko is not just a classic
relatively pale wines that tend to turn to brick
Cretan indigenous variety. It is
orange fairly quickly. Its appearance resembles
Crete’s treasure, with 400 ha of
Nebbiolo, and this is not their only common
plantings. Its lineage goes so far
element. Its pale colour, rich natural sugars and
back in time that it is regarded
tendency for oxidation mean that it often ends
as an ancestor of the Corinthian
up as a sweet wine. But the grandest Liatiko
grape used since ancient times as
emerges as a dry version when its generous
a table grape.43 During the past
tannins have been extracted from the skins and
couple of decades, it has managed
balance its natural sweetness. It is this game of
to step out of the shadows due
sugars versus tannins that can craft memorable
to the work of quality-driven
wines. It also blends exceptionally well with
producers and is, for Crete, a
Mandilari, which is its opposite: deeply coloured
blue-chip on the rise. It produces
and much more acidic, but lacking the central
wines of silk and cashmere. Wines
palate fleshiness that Liatiko has in abundance.
that can be enjoyed in their youth
but can improve with cellaring. Its aromas are like walking into an
Asian spice shop full of cardamom
and cumin, around a core of tar
and dried cherries. Its dry wines
are full of flavour, character and
texture. It also shows the scent
of figs and raisins in the sweet
versions. Full-bodied, with soft
tannins and moderate acidity. Like
a hug.
History
The cultivation of Liatiko dates back to the
3rd or 2nd century BC, as shown by the dating
of the grape residues found in presses in the
‘Melissa’ location, within the zone of Dafnes. A
manuscript dated 1432 AD by Pietro Querini,
37
a Venetian feudal lord of Crete, is kept in the A high percentage of old vines (90%) perform
Vatican Apostolic Library of Rome and refers to better with short pruning since there is a
barrels with Liatiko from Dafnes. tendency for increased vigour at the tips.
Costacurta et al. (2006), using molecular

analysis, studied the possible existence of a Terroirs
genetic relationship or genetic similarity between
In Sitia (PDO optional blending with
Greek vine varieties and Italian vine varieties,
Mandilari): Here Liatiko is planted in a
particularly those found in the southern regions
varied landscape that changes immensely from
(Campania, Calabria, Sicily, Basilicata). This
near sea level to almost 650 m elevation. Best
study showed a genetic relationship between
results come from the hillside vineyards of
Corinto Nero grown in Italy, with the Corinthian
this semi-mountainous area. For PDO wines
raisin and Liatiko. The results of this research
Liatiko may be supplemented by a small dose of
confirm the view of Kribas (1943), according to
Mandilari, although this is not not mandatory.
which there is a variation of the variety with the
From 2012 Liatiko should be a minimum of
name Psilorogo Zibbibo, which produces grapes
80% of the PDO blend. No other wine grape is
that look like those of raisins. It may be the
so inextricably linked to Crete’s place than is
ancestor of the Corinthian raisin, which emerged
Liatiko to Sitia.
through mutation.44
In Dafnes (PDO optional blending with
Its name allegedly derives from iouliatiko,
Mandilari): A minimum of 80% of Liatiko may
which refers to July, when Liatiko is supposedly
be blended with Mandilari. The vineyards range
harvested. However, Liatiko is harvested in
from 150–600 m altitude, and the vines are
mid-late August in Dafnes and later in Sitia, in
grown on slopes.
September. So Liatiko refers to the size of the
berry resembling an olive (elia in Greek). The vineyards are located northeast of Psiloritis
Mountain. The wider area’s topography is
formed by rolling hills, almost parallel to each
In the vineyard other, extending from the northern part of the
There is great clonal diversity, with more than prefecture to the south at 300–500 m. The
ten biotypes easily identified in the vineyard.45 vineyards are planted on the slopes of these
Liatiko from Sitia, especially from old vines, hills, with eastern or western exposure.
is less productive and differs from Liatiko of
The valleys formed between the hills serve as
other areas. In the PDO Sitia zone, most of the
natural canals, conducting cooling breezes from
vineyards are usually trained as bush vines.
the Cretan Sea, thereby ameliorating slope
Moreover, a high percentage (approximately
temperatures during the summer. Rainfall is rare
90%) of old vines are found in the zone.
in the summer months. The soils are limestone
Ιt is a vigorous, productive, disease and with good drainage, so plants and grapes are not
drought-resistant variety with medium to large- susceptible to fungal diseases.
sized bunches. Susceptible to oïdium.
38
The wines of Crete
Wine styles
Stylistically the dry wines are not for the faint-hearted (sweet wines are also produced).
They are powerful, not in terms of alcohol, as this tends to be moderated by the altitude
and breezy nights, but with plenty of weight. One could compare them to a traditional
or less polished version of a Piemontese wine, full of herbal undertones and dried red
fruits, and with firm but not aggressive tannins as well as bright acidity.
39
ROMEIKO
A CRETAN RIDDLE
Romeiko has been, and remains, a

Cretan mystery; a red variety full
History
of paradoxes, full of weaknesses It is unknown whether Romeiko comes from
and strengths. Although very the Aegean islands or Crete, in which it is
productive in the vineyard, with also traditionally cultivated under the name
uneven ripening, low acidity and Tsardana.46 This variety is genetically close to
colour, it manages to produce Romeiko.47 Its name derives either from the word
wines full of floral aromas; even romios, a word used to refer to Greeks who were
the tsikoudia (Cretan distillate) free citizens of the Byzantine empire or from
made of Romeiko is perfumed. romi, which means strength in Greek, alluding to
It is planted exclusively in the the considerable vigour of the variety.
region of Chania and covers
100 ha of plantings. It is also
associated with the traditional
In the vineyard
wines of Marouvas. A unique There exists significant clonal diversity, with
style that speaks of Crete and its more than ten biotypes easily identified in the
culture. vineyard. Ιt is a vigorous, productive, disease
and drought-resistant variety, susceptible only
to oïdium and eudemida (European grapevine
moth), that prefers calcareous-clay soils. Ιt is
late-ripening, with full maturation reaching
deep into September or even October.48
As a variety, it is low in anthocyanin content,

has low-level tannins and modest acidity,
with high alcohol at full ripeness despite its
high yields. However, when yields are limited
to approximately 50 hl/ha, it can produce
interesting red wines. Its full potential is still
vastly unexplored.49
40
The wines of Crete
Terroirs Wine styles

It is grown exclusively in western Crete near These are usually associated with the
Chania, more specifically in Keramia (south traditional style of Marouvas (heady wine
of Chania), Kissamos and Kandanos Selino. that used to mature for 4–5 years in oak),
Its plantings cover 80% of the vineyard area in which mainly covered home and family
Chania.50 needs. Romeiko is now being rediscovered
as a blanc de noirs, sparkling and sweet
wine. Nevertheless, the conversation now
exists on how to reinvent Marouvas, and
as a more fun drink.
41
Other varieties to watch
ΙNDIGENOUS
Thirty-five varieties are considered

indigenous to the island of Crete.51 Some
of these could be disputed as they are also
associated with other regions. For example,
Begleri is linked to Ikaria. It can be rather
complicated to trace the exact origin of
varieties beyond any doubt, particularly for
those which are ancient and whose footprints
have been eroded by time. Albeit, despite
possible overlaps, Crete is a giant treasure chest
filled with different indigenous varieties.
The common link of Cretan varieties is that

they are mid-late ripening, adapted to the warm
climate of the island and relatively productive.
Their full potential is still unexplored, as
evidenced by the experiments with Romeiko,
the rise of Vidiano and the rediscovery of
varieties such as Melissaki or Tachtas.
Of other varieties, lookout for Melissaki,

Tachtas and Tsardana, which gives outstanding
rosé wines.
42
The wines of Crete
INTERNATIONAL
Special mention needs to be made to the

excellent adaptation of the Rhône varieties to
the island. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and
Roussanne seem to have found a hospitable
new home on the Cretan slopes and retain the
varietal typicality of their homeland.
Syrah: Performs well in this Mediterranean

climate and responds positively to unirrigated
vineyards. It is planted at elevations of up to
600 m and in a diversity of soils. In most cases,
the wines produced are quite concentrated,
even when yields are higher.52
Grenache: Perfectly adapted to Crete, almost

as if they were made for each other. It can
produce wines of good concentration with
controlled yields and is otherwise mainly
employed for rosé wines. As is the case with
Syrah, it has been planted in many different
terroirs, especially in Chania. It is exceptionally
resistant to mildew, which is the primary fungal
disease found on the island.53
Mourvèdre: Very tiny plantings on mixed

shale, that lacks calcium exist. Well adapted to
the warm climatic conditions.
Roussanne: Very tiny plantings on mixed

shale soils that lack calcium exist. Its low yields
and high sensitivity to downy mildew make its
cultivation difficult and perhaps unprofitable for
most growers.
43
44
The wines of Crete
Terroir
From West to East
Chania
Chania is the smallest wine-growing area The soils and altitudes exhibit unparalleled
situated to the west of the island. High rainfall diversity. Vineyards start from sea level and
is its dominant feature. The climate is generally reach up to 900 metres. Kissamos and Keramia
mild Mediterranean. In autumn and winter, are two viticultural areas in the prefecture. Still,
north and northwest winds prevail, whereas it isn’t easy to consider them as single terroirs.
light winds temper the heat in summer. But They encompass too large a territory, and their
the divine gift of endless sunshine allows for quality characteristics have not yet been proven.
vacations from March to late October. Chania
Trends include the return of Romeiko wines,
has the most water in Crete, which explains the
and the experimentation carried out by many
rich vegetation (indigenous flora and all sorts of
winemakers (red wines, white, sweet, sparkling,
fruit trees, including subtropical varieties). The
tank, barrel, etc.).
crystal clear seas of Chania consistently earn the
‘blue flags’ of Europe. They are accessible to all Main varieties:
age groups, all year round. Romeiko and international varieties
Chania
Rethymno
Heraklion
Lassithi
45
Melabes Archanes PDO

(Rethymno) (Heraklion)
Melabes is situated in Rethymno, regarded as The vineyards of the PDO Archanes are located
the cradle of Vidiano. The altitude ranges from at altitudes from 300 m to 450 m, planted on
585 to 900 metres. The soil is clay, stony and terraced gravel soils with a high proportion
includes a substantial percentage of slate. It is of limestone. The climate is the typical
characterised by steep slopes and cultivation on Mediterranean, with an average rainfall of
terraces. 600 mm per year. Most of the vineyards have a
southern exposure. They are adjacent to valleys
The terroir lends the wines their personality and
and forest areas at a short distance from the sea.
combines the soil (which includes much slate), the
maritime breezes from the Libyan Sea, the cold In Archanes, Mandilari blends with Kotsifali
masses descending from the mountains, and the providing brightness, structure and intense
age of the vines. More than 80% of the vineyard is purple colour.
planted with old vines (over 30 years old).
Main varieties:
Main varieties: Kotsifali and Mandilari
Vidiano
Peza PDO
Archanes & Peza (Heraklion)
(Heraklion:
Τhe twin valley of Peza, which lies to the east,
Τhe twin valleys) has many similarities to Archanes. Still, the
altitude is higher (500–600 m). This favours
Famous Greek novelist Stratis Mirivilis, in his
Vilana plantings, for which it holds the PDO
‘Taxidiotika’ collection from around Greece,
status. Because of the lighter soils, which are
describes how his friends took him to Archanes
less stony, a more delicate style of Mandilari is
to see the vines. He was so impressed that
produced, which is suitable for rosé wines.
he poetically thought that ‘this is where the
Temple of Dionysus must have been located’ in Main varieties:
sight of all this breathtaking beauty. Kotsifali, Mandilari and Vilana
Kotsifali and Mandilaria constitute the

signature blend of Archanes. It produces
Dafnes PDO
a Cretan red wine full of ripeness, (Heraklion)
Mediterranean sun, and velvety texture. Peza,
in the eastern part, has similarly styled red Dafnes takes its name from an ancient village,
wines but stands out for its mountainous probably of the 11th century. It is located south
Vilana planted at 700 m elevation. of Heraklion, at a distance of 18 km. It rises to
46
The wines of Crete
Archanes PDO Chandakas-Candia PDO

up to 300-450 m, Whites: Vilana min 85%
gravel & limestone Reds: Kotsifali 70%, Mandilari 30%
Reds: Kotsifali, Mandilari
Dafnes PDO Peza PDO

300-500 m 300-600 m
limestone sand & limestone
Reds: Liatiko min 80%, Mandilari Whites: Vilana
Whites: Vidiano (not PDO) Reds: Kotsifali, Mandilari
Sitia PDO Melabes

300-700 m up to 900 m
clay/sand/phyllite/granite clay & stony soils
Whites: Vilana 70%, Thrapsathiri 30% old vines
Reds: Liatiko min 80%, Mandilari Vidiano
Spina, Maza Houdetsi, Stironas, Panorama

500-900 m, Vidiano
old vines
Muscat
Archanes
Dafnes Peza
Sitia
Spina
Maza Tilissos
Korfes
Asites Houdetsi
Stironas
Panorama
Melabes
Agios Thomas
Chandakas-Candia
PGI Crete: The zone of PGI Crete, established in
1989, comprises the four districts of the island:
Lasithi, Heraklion, Rethymnon and Chania.
© Yiannis Karakasis MW
47
500 m elevation and is marked by gently rolling to 700 m. There is a constant sea breeze that
Tuscan-like slopes planted with vines and cools summer temperatures. There is significant
olives. According to historical documents, the rainfall (600 mm on average, though 2019
wine from Dafnes has been known since 1271 experienced 1,900 mm).
AD. Near the village, there are many excellent
There is no notion of a single terroir in Sitia.
wineries to visit, focusing on red wines from the
Soils vary even within a few centimetres, going
signature variety of the area, Liatiko.
from limestone to marl or schist and phyllite in
The climate of the Dafnes zone is the western parts. The soils are predominantly
Mediterranean, warm, with dry summers calcareous, with clay that goes deeper in certain
and mild winters. The layout of the area is parts. Crete emerged from the sea because of
amphitheatrical, with most vineyards in direct the tension between the African and European
view of the sea. The sea breeze blowing towards tectonic plates, so it is not rare to find seashells
the vineyards has a beneficial effect on the in the vineyards.
ambient temperature, thus ensuring less hot
The region was famous for Assyrtiko,
summers. These conditions contribute to the
Thrapsathiri and Liatiko. The Liatiko biotype
proper maturation of grapes, with fine acidity
of Sitia differs entirely from that of the rest of
and aromatic potential. The ample sunshine of
the island. Old vines are a prominent feature of
Dafnes promotes excellent phenolic ripening
the area, with an estimated average age between
of the grapes. The soils of the zone boast a high
60–80 years.
limestone content, and most are classified as
sandy-clay to clay, which means good nutrient Traditional vinification involved pressing in
storage. Other features include great depth, cement, leaving the must for one day and then
as well as good drainage and fertility. These racking to large format oak barrels. This resulted
characteristics make them ideal substrates for in a type of a solera wine, a process for ageing
the viticulture of Liatiko and Mandilaria. wine by fractional blending. Sweet wines were
late harvested. Ziros and Handras are thought
The soil horizons are made up of 60 cms of
to produce excellent quality wines, whereas
sandy soil, followed by marl rich in calcium
Agrilos mostly makes sweet wines.
carbonate.
Main varieties:
Main varieties:
Assyrtiko, Thrapsathiri, Vilana, Liatiko
Vidiano, Liatiko
Liatiko, Voidomatis, Thrapsathiri,
Assyrtiko, and Plyto. Mostly a red wine
Sitia PDO land with Liatiko to the fore. Vilana
arrived in the region in the mid-1970s, as
The broader area of Sitia is very different to the
did Mandilari.
rest of Crete. For one thing, the violin is played
here, instead of the lyre, as the most decisive
influence came from the Dodecanese. The
entire area is semi-mountainous, reaching up
48
The wines of Crete
Emerging Terroirs
Asites
Located in PDO Dafnes. The altitudes of the vineyards start
from 380 m and reach up to 680–700 m. Producer Zaharias
Diamantakis says four areas are located around Asites (both
villages, Kato Asites and Ano Asites). The site’s characteristic
is its connection with Mt Psiloritis, essentially situated on the
Eastern foothills of Psiloritis.
Climatically the great advantage of the area is its connection

with the mountain - the altitude and the exposure to the
Aegean. In summer, this is beneficial because the north winds
help maintain lower temperatures. Also, the Psiloritis mass
acts as a natural barrier to the southerly winds that are much
warmer. Crete receives the most significant volumes of rain
regarding rainfall compared to all of the other Mediterranean
islands. Typically Asites, will receive about 800–900 mm of rain.
Before the appearance of phylloxera, there was an assortment

of varieties. Liatiko dominated along with Tachtas, and many
vineyards were made up of field blends (Athiri, Thrapsathiri).
Following phylloxera, the area was initially replanted in the
1990s, mainly with Liatiko and some foreign varieties. From
2005 onwards, Vidiano, Mandilari, Assyrtiko have been planted
and more Liatiko in recent years. It is worth mentioning that
several areas are planted with Sultanina mainly for table use as
a dessert grape and, to a lesser degree, for sultanas.
Soil diversity: limestone in parts of Kato Asites (Korfi, Stavros,

Pachio Dasos) and clay and limestone in other parts of Kato
Asites (North, Kampos). Other soils found in Kato Asites
(Harakas and Koumi: calcareous with a significant presence
of stones and some clay). The white wines produced here
have a firm structure, very high acidities, low pH and intense
minerality.54 Ano Asites includes clay and limestone soils.
49
50
The wines of Crete
Wine Styles
Tradition
Marouvas
The variety used to make Marouvas

Marouvas is a traditional wine
is Romeiko. Romeiko is a variety that
produced in Kissamos and
accumulates sugars (so high alcohol).
Keramia of Chania, high in
It is resistant to disease and drought,
alcohol and characterised by
which helped it survive in the area of
oxidative aromas, much like
Chania. It is a variety that oxidises
Sherry or Madeira. Marouvas
quickly, even in very young wines. It is
means aged. The wine is
widely planted on Crete in Chania on
kept for many years in large
clay-stony soil.
old oak or walnut barrels
that are topped up each year
with new wine. In Cretan
tradition, sometimes a barrel
of wine was commenced upon
the birth of a child, which
would then be opened when
the child came of age or got
married. It is not sure when
this type of wine was first
made, but it is assumed that it
goes back a long way.
51
Traditionally the grapes are harvested in the

first half of September when they have reached
13 Be. The skins are kept in the press for about
24 hours. When fermentation begins, the wine
is racked-off and placed in 500–600l barrels to
ferment without the addition of sulphur dioxide.
The barrels are not emptied, which means they
have lees and wine for many years, much like a
solera. The wine is kept in the barrel until it has
acquired the desired taste characteristics (at
least 3-5 years).
Marouvas is a wine with intense taste

characteristics (nuts, honey, dried fruit and
coffee) that needs to be paired with food of the
same intensity of character, such as goat with
rice (gamopylafo) or chochlious boubouristous
(snails with rosemary).
Unfortunately, there is no legal framework for

Marouvas wine. This means that, even though
a few quality producers are experimenting with
this style, they cannot officially name it as such.
52
The wines of Crete
Malvasia
A wine made around the Monemvasia port town in the
Peloponnese from a variety of grapes. In the 14th century,
a change in the size of ships made it difficult for these to be
accommodated in Monemvasia’s harbour, leading to a decline in
the city’s commercial importance. That, together with Ottoman
rule, meant that the wine’s production had to move place. Crete
took over the production and trade of Malvasia as it was still
under Venetian control. Over the years Monemvasia wines
became known as Malvasia in Venetian dialects and, elsewhere
in Europe, as Malmsey.
Malvasia was a sweet or semi-sweet wine produced by varying methods (late-harvested

grapes that had accumulated sugars and concentrating the must, probably sun-dried
grapes and maybe even cooking of the must). A dry Malvasia is also referred to in Venetian
documents relating to Crete, named Malvasia Garba.
The wines named Malvasia were probably made of multiple semi-aromatic varieties, many
of which were indigenous to Crete (Athiri, Thrapsathiri, Vilana, Tachtas) to produce sweet
wines. According to Pliny, in an earlier age, Crete was famous for its vinum passum sweet
wines that were exported to Rome. These were renamed Malvasia during the 14th–17th
century. Malvasia was produced in Candia, Rethymno and Sitia. It seems that at the
beginning of the 19th century (with Crete under Ottoman rule by now), from the accounts of
an Austrian doctor F.W.Sieber, Malvasia was still produced for domestic use. However, it was
probably no longer exported.
53
Contemporary styles and approaches
Classic fruity and mineral

The most popular style for whites is the classic unoaked version,
blended or varietal, expressive of a lemony character and
palate-cleansing gastronomical qualities. Vilana is a standard
component in blends, providing freshness and often savoury
minerality. Vidiano and Assyrtiko can demonstrate a mineral
character. Muscat of Spina is classically tank fermented to
preserve its varietal aromatics. There is even a blanc de noirs
version made from Romeiko.
For reds, there are now quite a few notable examples of unoaked
Kotsifali, Manadilari and Liatiko, showing what the varieties
can do without oak. The result is delicious light reds that can be
enjoyed all year round.
Lees ageing
It is increasingly popular for some of the white varieties, like
Vidiano and Assyrtiko, in order to add texture and mouthfeel.
Oak
Some of the white varieties, such as Vilana, Assyrtiko and
Thrapsathiri, may be partly matured in large oak barrels. Most of
the red varieties will see oak at some point. However, the trend is
to move away from new oak to preserve varietal fruit aromas.
54
The wines of Crete
Orange wines-amphorae
Orange wines are on the rise in Greece, and Crete is also
following suit. Skin-fermented white wines are made of
Melissaki, Vidiano and Muscat. Winemakers around Greece
are increasingly experimenting with amphorae. Since the best
amphorae seem to be made in Crete, it stands to reason that
the Cretan winemakers would take advantage. Currently,
experimentation is ongoing with Muscat, Vidiano and Liatiko.
Traditional method sparkling

Very few efforts up to now, with Vidiano, and Romeiko showing
promise with traditional method sparkling winemaking.
Single vineyard wines

More and more producers are highlighting specific terroirs with
single vineyard expressions of Vidiano, Vilana, Plyto and Dafni
among other varieties.
Sweet wines
Although commercially speaking, Malvasia wines have lost
ground during the last century, there are signs of a renaissance
with two PDOs approved. In eastern Crete, the Malvasia of
Sitia blends the whites Thrapsathiri, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Muscat
of Spina and Malvasia di Candia together with red Liatiko
(vinified as blanc de noirs). According to the law, grapes are
either sun dried (liastos wine) or left under shade to dehydrate.
At the same time, in central Crete, Malvasia of Candia uses the
same varieties with the addition of Vidiano in the blend. Only
time can tell if a strong comeback is to be made.
55
56
The wines of Crete
Crete in time
Vintages
2020
A distinctive year
This year’s harvest commenced in the last week of August and was completed by the end of
September (regular harvest dates) with typical maturation for most varieties. Production was
about 10% higher than that of 2019 for most grape varieties. The cold winter with heavy rainfalls
and the ideal temperatures during ripening (24ºC average temperature in August and September)
contributed an intense and complex aromatic character. Generally all indigenous varieties
benefitted from higher acidity.
2019
One of the best vintages of the last decade
A year that gave very high-quality grapes, particularly for the reds. 2019 was typical in terms of
grape maturation. The winter was cold and experienced a significant volume of rain that saturated
the soil, resulting in even ripening. Bud break in early April was followed by a cool spring. From
then on until harvest, there was no further rainfall, and the temperature was at normal levels. In
September day time temperatures ranged around 27ºC, and night time temperatures around
15ºC. There was no rainfall during the ripening period. Overall the weather conditions during the
ripening period were ideal for phenolic and aromatic maturation.
The white varieties gave wines with rich aromas, full mouthfeel and exceptional acidity. The reds
produced wines that show excellent phenolic maturation, concentration and structure.
57
2018
A dry and interesting vintage
Peza: A good vintage for Peza with light rain at the end of July despite the overall drought, which
was harmful to shoot growth and grape maturation. An early harvest, almost three to four weeks
before average, gave rise to fully-ripened grapes but reduced yields by nearly 30%.
Heraklion: The year was characterised by few winter and spring rains. Spring was warm, which
led to early budburst. Diseases were not a problem due to low humidity levels. Indigenous varieties
(Plyto, Daphni, Vidiano, Kotsifali, Liatiko, etc.) did not show water stress problems, despite limited
water availability.
During the summer, there was rain before véraison, and this helped grape maturation. Some areas
and certain varieties were premature by up to 15 days. During maturation, there were average
temperatures with scarce rainfall, which did not influence grape quality. Production was 25% less
than in the previous year.
2017
Unexpectedly one of the best years for the reds
Heraklion: An excellent vintage. Growing conditions included winter snow, abundant winter and
spring rainfall, which were welcomed after the drought of 2016. Budburst was a month later than the
previous year, and there was good shoot growth. Also, the unusually mild average daytime summer
temperatures (due to the cool north-northwesterly winds during the summer) led to good growth
and a later harvest than the previous year.
Grape quantities were increased by 20% compared to the previous year. Grape maturation was
normal, slow, which resulted in white wines with medium and high acidity and a unique balance of
sugars/acids, with typical intense aromas of the varieties. Mandilari gave rich and velvety tannins.
Kotsifali and Liatiko in the late-ripening regions matured slowly and achieved excellent aromatic
expression.
2016
An outstanding vintage
2016 was an outstanding year for Crete, probably one of the best in the last 20 years. The indigenous
varieties responded beautifully to the hot, dry conditions. A mild winter with low rainfall led to a
budburst almost 15 days earlier than usual. In spring temperatures were relatively high, with intense
sunshine and little rain, which resulted in further precociousness in growth. Disease pressure was low.
58
The wines of Crete
During August and September, the primarily northerly winds and perfect temperatures (19ºC
average nighttime temperatures and 32ºC average daytime temperatures) helped ripening and the
normal development of sugars and aroma precursors, resulting in perfect quality grapes. It is worth
pointing out that in such a dry year, the indigenous varieties of Crete showed exceptional resistance
to the extreme drought. The quality of the grapes was barely influenced.
Quantities were lower, but the quality was excellent. The white varieties resulted in wines with
aromatic intensity and good structure. The red wines acquired high phenolics and dense aromas.
2015
A challenging vintage
Heraklion: In the area of Peza, temperatures were average, with periodic rainfalls throughout the
year. During maturation, there was intense rainfall in some regions which led to a 50% reduction
in the quantity of grapes with that of the previous year. In terms of quality, the white wines will be
more aromatic this year.
Archanes: High rainfall in the winter and early spring (637 mm) together with rain during the
summer (67 mm) meant that the vines were well-irrigated. Temperatures were favourable for
growth and ripening. Due to the summer rain and fungal diseases grape quality was negatively
impacted in some cases. Nevertheless, for the greater part of the zone, most varieties gave good
results.
The white wines had intense aromatic potential, full-body, very good acidity, whereas the red wines
had medium alcohol levels, full body and intense colour.
2014
Average to good year
Heraklion: Generally considered an average to good year. Drought during the growing period, the
unusually high spring temperatures, the continued high temperatures, and the intense sunshine
during summer (with heatwaves in June and August) influenced phenolic maturation. The very few
rainfalls in July and August aided normal evolution of sugars and aroma precursors. In August, the
three repeated heatwaves, each 3-4 days long, slowed ripening by ten days, which led to intense
shock of the vines and a slowing of the metabolism and sugar accumulation. This proved that
irrigation is necessary for some instances of great need.
Production for Vilana and Kotsifali was reduced compared to that of the previous year. There was a
decrease in the production of all varieties by at least 10% compared to that of the previous year. The
characteristics of the 2014 vintage were average alcohol and high acidity.
59
2013
A cool vintage
The year was characterised by a mild winter, with rainfall
concentrated in December and January with little rain during
spring. The critical feature of the year was the cool summer.
The summer months had no rain and relatively average
temperatures. There was early budburst and steady ripening
of the grapes compared to that of the previous year.
Production was lower for all varieties compared to the

previous year. The wines of the 2013 vintage are relatively
high in alcohol and have high acidity. The red wines have good
colour intensity and acidity, with notable aromatic intensity
and complexity. The white wines of the year have marked
aromatic complexity, with dominant citrus fruit aromas.
2012
An early-ripening vintage
Two faces for Crete both in terms of quantities and delay of
the harvest. The main area of Peza-Heraklion reported a hot
year, as did the whole of Crete, with the average heat count
increased by 12% compared to the average of the last five
years.
This led to an early harvest, in some cases 3 weeks earlier

depending on the area, and a substantial decrease in
production.
2011
A vintage of extremes
The main characteristic of the 2011 vintage was the constant
alternation of rain and heat, which resulted in downy mildew
issues. Production was reduced by about 60%. Vilana, which
produced around 1,100 tn the previous year, was down to
300 tn this year. Quality levels dropped wherever there were
infections with downy mildew and European grapevine moth.
60
The wines of Crete
structural elements with time. However, I have

Ageing Potential seen exciting mature examples that had held
very well after almost a decade of life.
Assyrtiko
Drink most Cretan Assyrtikos 2–6 years
Kotsifali
following the harvest when they best express
Kotsifali wines can be delicious when young,
the balance of acid, body and complexity. If lees
combining all the perfume and the brightness
ageing and/or oak maturation are involved the
of red fruit. Depending on the style, drink the
wines could be cellared further.
wines 2–6 years following the harvest.
Muscat of Spina and Liatiko

Malvasia di Candia
Liatiko wines can be delicious when young,
With its softer structure and floral aromas, most combining perfume and ripeness, but can also
wines from these varieties should be consumed be rewarding up to 8–10 years following the
within the first two years following the harvest. harvest.
Vidiano Mandilari
It is fascinating to witness the evolution of Mandilari wines demand patience to achieve
Vidiano with bottle ageing. Drink the simple the optimum drinking point. They can be very
tank versions in the first 3–4 years following rewarding at around 8–10 of age.
the harvest. But cellar the barrel-fermented and
lees-aged examples for longer, about 5–7 years.
Sweet wines -Malvasia

Vilana, Dafni, Trapsathiri These wines last for decades, with some
that have seen extended oak ageing being
and Plyto indestructible, even once the bottle has been
opened.
As a rule, these wines show their best during
the first 3–4 years following the harvest, gaining
more layers on the palate and integrating all
61
62
The wines of Crete
Today
From the legends of the past and the great discovering, such as Kotsifali, Mandilari,
revelations of Sir Arthur Evans at the beginning Thrapsathiri, Vilana, and Dafni. Let’s also not
of the 20th century, when he discovered an forget the Cretan version of Assyrtiko and the
ideogram for wine in Linear B (the earliest unsung Rhône-like reds.
attested form of Greek) at the archaeological
Crete’s story is a combination of contradictions.
site of Knossos, Cretan wine has come a long
To begin with, although phylloxera was
way. Despite its long history, only recently has
introduced to Europe56 in 1862, it only reached
the industry begun to produce high-quality
Crete as late as 1979. The reason for this was
wines after decades of low-quality bulk wine,
the distance from the mainland, bearing in mind
which was often oxidised from the very start.
that phylloxera was introduced to Northern
The jump in quality is impressive and is the
Greece in 1898 and started moving south in the
result of many factors: a new generation of
1950s and 1960s. As expected, many vineyards
producers that studied abroad and brought
were destroyed and needed replanting. It
home fresh, innovative ideas; a mosaic of
was planted with international varieties
fascinating indigenous varieties; the explosion
instead of autochthonous varieties (Cabernet
of the tourist industry and the intensive
Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Chardonnay).
activities of the Wines of Crete network, that
Three decades later, we see Cretan producers
have managed to bring to life the best of Cretan
returning to their local treasures and
Wine.
acknowledging their value.
There are approximately 100 producers making
One would expect the southern latitude of
23 million bottles (data for 2019-2020). Of
Crete to be restrictive for quality wines. Still,
these, whites are 69% and reds 30% respectively.
the fact that Cretan viticulture is high-altitude
Most are consumed in Crete, with the rest
(up to 900 m above sea level), together with the
shared between Athens and the international
happy adaptation of indigenous varieties and
market.55 The broader Heraklion area is the
the water-retaining soils (limestone and marl),
centre of wine production. Approximately
means that Cretan wine defies contradictions.
50 producers are based in these century-old
terroirs, covering 90% of the total production. The most impressive achievement of all is
White Vidiano and the scented and singular that Crete managed to reverse the dubious
red Liatiko are receiving more attention. Still reputation the quality of its wines held in
many more indigenous varieties are worth previous decades. Not an easy task. The
63
accomplishment of its impressive and successful It is a variety that is of interest to producers

growth is due to a number of reasons. outside Crete, but it is also winning over the
hearts of wine lovers.
The new generation of Cretan
winemakers Assyrtiko also seems to be making a dynamic
have contributed to this significantly. They appearance on the island, producing wines that
are skilled, educated, and knowledgeable, exhibit the perfect balance of minerality and
experienced, and have promoted quality while fruit. The aromatic Muscat of Spina, the equally
adhering to their rich heritage. fragrant Malvasia di Candia and the limited
editions of Dafni and Plyto complete the mosaic
The hidden potential of native
of white varieties.
varieties
has been showcased. The naturally high-yielding Moving on to darker wine varieties, which
Vilana has moved uphill, which has restricted make up the majority of the grapes grown
yields and offered fruity, complex wines with a in Cretan vineyards, the late-ripening and
more balanced structure. Some winemakers are productive Mandilaria and the equally prolific
vinifying single vineyards. Vidiano is the rising Kotsifali are dominant. They both yield wines
star because of its distinctive flavour, depth, of a somewhat more rustic character and often
freshness and subtle floral and apricot aromas. appear together in a blend, each compensating
64
The wines of Crete
for the weaknesses of the other. The more refined and paler in colour
Liatiko is an interesting case, as it produces both dry and sweet wines.
Of the international varieties, those that have adapted well and given
remarkable results are Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rhône varieties
like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Roussanne.
The relatively high altitudes of the best grape producing

vineyards
ameliorate the warm climate. They are located between 400–600 m on
the mountain slopes of Lefka Ori to the west, the Lasithiotika range
to the east, and the legendary Psiloritis in between. Up there, the mild
temperatures and the diurnal variation enhance the production of
more structured wines with detailed and complex flavour profiles.
The diversity of the soils

made up mostly of clay, marl and limestone, with the latter associated
with superior quality white wines.
Crete’s clearly different cultural identity

compared to that of the rest of Greece reflected in its inhabitants’
traditions, food, dialect, music, and temperament.
The millions of visitors that visit Crete

fall in love with it and return each year to swim in the clear waters,
discover the multitude of archaeological sites, walk the mountain trails
and gorges, and enjoy the food and wine.
The global wine experts who are speaking of the wines of

Crete with enthusiasm
and are predicting a new success story.
The establishment and activities of the Wines of Crete

network
have played an essential role in the wine industry’s rapid development.
It brought together the leading producers, highlighted the virtues of
Cretan wines, and has collectively marketed them both in Greece and
abroad. It is worth pointing out that Crete is one of the few regions in
Greece that has recognised and utilised the power of collaboration.
Cretan wine has charted its own course in the last decade with much
work and effort. The best is still to come, judging by the enthusiasm
Minoan Pithos and tenacity of its winemakers.
65
66
The wines of Crete
Future
What does the future hold for such a magic Other things to be considered:
place? Crete has a definite advantage. Its
possession of so many different and exciting STRENGTHEN THE MESSAGE
grape varieties, its substantial available volumes
As an island, Crete has the advantage of its
and, most importantly, its great value for money
clear delineation and aeons of history. What
— a high entry point in terms of quality for new
is needed is a powerful ‘Wines of Crete’
consumers into Greek wine.
story supplemented by a simple profile of
Moreover, apart from the rising quality of the the important regions (Chania, Heraklion,
wines, the producers’ abundant passion, the Rethymno, Sitia, etc.) and an outline of their
beauty of the land, and the integrated wine basic geography. This will have to be combined
tourism/marketing campaign, Crete could be with a clear focus on key varieties, like the very
the next famous wine region. But, there are still distinctive and promising Vidiano, Liatiko,
things that need to be done to achieve this, such Dafni and Muscat of Spina, amongst others.
as connecting the wines to export markets. A few
high profile brands and two easily recognisable LINK WINE AND HISTORY
grape varieties, like Vidiano and Liatiko, would (STORYTELLING)
be an excellent first rung on the ladder.
In a place that has such a wealth of archaeological
As I see it, things can only get better provided findings linked to wine, a history that stretches
the already practised teamwork expands to from the neolithic era to this day, one can weave a
more activities. What do I mean? As agronomist beautiful story about this long tradition.
Dimitris Tsoupeis says, the aim is to implement
a holistic strategy. In the vineyard, there could ESTABLISH STYLES
be shared cultivation techniques for pruning,
Cretan wine needs to establish a few
disease protection protocols, climate change
identifiable icon wine styles. Still, the producers
decisions etc. On a positive and optimistic
seem to be aware of this and are willing to
note, Crete producers have collectively put
explore possibilities. Interestingly they appear
their act together: they seem cohesive, have a
to have accepted the fact that individual success
clear purpose, a willingness to work with each
is linked to, and depends on, group success.
other, and a well-delineated image and identity.
This implies overlooking personal differences to
A wine route has been mapped out, and wine
achieve a common goal.
tourism is developing.
67
A CRETAN BLEND
Perhaps an Assyrtiko/Vidiano blend could
establish an image of a Cretan blend, or some of
the PDO blends that mix indigenous varieties
could hold this place in order to engage more
consumers.
CLIMATE CHANGE
CHALLENGE
Recent data classifies Peza in Heraklion and
Sitia as regions IV and V according to Winkler
Index (2185 and 2588 GDD, respectively).
For this reason it is necessary to continuously
explore the potential of varieties through clonal
selection and to investigate their limits when
above the recommended temperatures for their
cultivation.
On the other hand not everything is grey,

as research has shown that, in general, late-
ripening varieties such as Mandilari and
Kotsifali often experience a maturation period
that does not allow sugars to accumulate to
maximum levels. For these varieties, warming
would result in an improved sugar/acid ratio at
harvest but without, or with, a smaller shift in
harvest timing. 57
ADOPTION OF ORGANIC
VITICULTURE
Producer Nikos Douloufakis believes that in
Dafnes around 70% of the vineyard area could
be cultivated organically. On the same theme,
producer Nikos Miliarakis agrees, suggesting
that a large proportion of grape growers are
already very close to farming organically, even
though they are not certified. He argues that the
68
The wines of Crete
general climatic conditions of the island still

help in this direction with some exceptions
due to the instability of the weather
conditions in certain years; but it does not
mean that it is not manageable. Overall,
Crete is a place where integrated viticultural
management can be a flag and consequently
organic farming has a significant percentage
of advocates.
My understanding is that organics may be

a significant calling card for Crete and a
strategic advantage over some of the world’s
newly established regions. It is a matter of
educating and convincing the growers that it
is important to adapt to a new, holistic, and
more sustainable approach to viticulture.
WORK WITH INDIGENOUS

VARIETIES
Over the last decade, Cretan wine has
charted its course, emphasizing both quality
and indigenous varieties. This seems to be a
correctly chosen path, but with much more
that needs to be done. Every time I visit this
breathtaking island the air is filled with the
energy of the constant ‘fermentation’ that
is taking place. One can feel a new scene of
natural wines, the rebirth of local varieties
and, most importantly, the people’s attitude
towards authenticity and distinctiveness.
On an island that has found a balance
between freedom and beauty, a cup of local
wine symbolizes much more than the joys
of the body or the tastes of creation. It is
a knowledge of life, which Cretan people
seem to possess and demonstrate in every
aspect of their culture.
69
70
The wines of Crete
Cretan
Gastronomy
It is difficult to know where to begin when one is writing about
Cretan gastronomy because there are so many different dishes. A
food that has been carried over from ancient times, has Byzantine
and Venetian influences and has been enriched during modern
times. It possesses a fantastic wealth of recipes, ways to preserve
meat, cheese and wild greens. The Cretan diet has been used as a
model of the Mediterranean diet. What does it consist of? Well,
Cretans eat many lipids, but all in the form of olive oil. They use olive
oil even in the cookies they bake. They eat almost four times more
fruit than people in any other Mediterranean country; vegetables,
wild greens and pulses are a huge part of their diet, much wholemeal
bread and rusks made of wheat, barley or rye, little meat and fish,
and one or two glasses of wine with their meals. They’re also famous
for their mountain herbs, the most renowned of which is dittany
(hop marjoram), and these are either used to add aroma to food or
are brewed as teas.
One would also have to refer to the research from 7 different countries.58 The areas studied
that has been carried out concerning the in Greece were Crete and Corfu. The study
Cretan diet. In 1956, Ancel Keys, a Minnesota has been criticised many times for its design
researcher, managed to prove the vital role and conclusions. Still, a fact is that when the
nutrition has in disease prevention and good University of Crete followed up in 1991, 50% of
health. His seven-country study started in 1958 its initial population was still alive. In contrast,
and lasted over 50 years, involving 12,763 males in Finland, they had all passed away.
aged 40-59, who were enrolled as 16 cohorts
71
In 1985, Serge Renaud set up a secondary mountains. These are what the sheep and goats
prevention trial, the Lyon Diet Heart Study. also graze on, and this is why Cretans consider
In this study, published in the Lancet in 1994, their meat so special and aromatic.
one group of participants ate like Cretans (the
other followed the American Cardiology Society
guidelines): no butter, cream or milk, lots of
fruit and vegetables, bread and cereals and little
meat. Cardiovascular events were reduced by at
least 70%, with the protective effect occurring
within two months. Needless to say, exercise
was also part of the regimen (Cretan herdsmen
would walk an average of 13 kms a day).
CHEESE
Cheese is one of the other products that is
always put on a table. It is either a starter, used
in pies, eaten with honey, used in cookies and
there are so many different types of cheese.
Everything is made from either sheep or goat
milk. Funnily enough, milk itself is never drunk
(only by children). Milk is always cheese. It
is worth taking a look at the different types of
WILD GREENS
cheese.
Many of the wild greens are eaten raw with
Kefalotyri:
some olive oil and lemon, are used in salads,
It has been produced for many centuries in
and are boiled or cooked in food. Not a single
Crete. A hard cheese made of sheep and goat
day will go by without greens on the table.
milk that is allowed to mature for about three
Spine chicory (coast chicory), purslane, wild
months. It is salty and spicy, eaten on its own or
artichoke, bulbs, scolymus hispanicus, fennel,
used for pasta dishes.
chives, oyster plant, sow thistle, hartwort, Queen
Anne’s lace, plantago, shepherd’s needle, ground Cheese of Dikti:
ivy, verbena, bladder campion, taraxaco, capers, Difficult to find. A low-fat cheese made in Mt.
crithmum maritimum, poppies. Many years Dikti, in the highlands of the Pediada region,
ago, I remember overhearing a British lady on the Lasithi plateau, and the highlands of
talking on the phone: ‘Mum, you will not believe Merambelos. Hard, salty, very spicy. Most of the
it, but these people eat weeds.’ So true. Many butter is removed from the milk used, and once
of these are considered ‘unwanted’ growth mature and hard it can be preserved in olive oil.
among wanted crops, but all grow wild on the It can be considered a type of kefalotyri.
72
The wines of Crete
Cretan Graviera (PDO): Pichtogalo Chanion:

Made of sheep’s milk, savoury, slightly sweet, A simple cheese made in the Chania prefecture.
compact and rubbery, with many holes. One of Rather yoghurt like, slightly sour. Made of
the famous cheeses of Greece. Usually put on unpasteurised sheep or sheep/goat milk.
the market matured. Eaten as is or used in pies like the chaniotiki
bougatsa.
Malaka:
A kind of immature, soft Cretan cheese from the Xigala Sitias:
region of Chania. Made only in the area of Sitia. Soft, made of
milk without the use of rennet, very much like
Tyrozouli:
xinomyzithra and pichtogalo of Chania.
Made in the area of Mt. Psiloritis. A hard cheese
Slightly sour and rich tasting.
with a particular taste made with vinegar
instead of rennet is preserved in olive oil after it Staka:
has been dried. Made from the cream of the milk heated with
some flour to separate the butter from the
Soft Athotyros or Myzithra:
proteins of the cream. Slightly yellowish in
Produced from the leftovers of the production of
colour and thick, used for cooking eggs, in
other cheeses, to which milk is added, and then
spaghetti, rice, pitas (the butter is the famous
it is left to drain. A very soft and creamy, low-fat,
stakovoutyro).
tasty cheese. It can be a starter used to prepare
Cretan kallitsounia, or served as dessert with
honey or grape molasses.
Hard Athotyros:
A cheese made with a combination of whey,
fresh milk and some salt and made of both sheep
and goat milk. It matures, loses humidity and
becomes hard. Used for pasta dishes.
Galomyzithra (PDO):
Usually made at home from goat milk. Savoury,
soft, slightly sour. Used on rye rusks (dakos) MEAT
and for sfakianopites.
To this day, most of the meat consumed is from
Xinomyzithra (PDO): smaller animals. Traditionally beef was not
A soft and savoury cheese. Made from sheep cooked much. Usually what is eaten are the goat
milk or a combination of sheep and goat milk kid and sheep that are free-grazing, as well as
like myzithra, but the milk is left at room pork, poultry and game. Pigeons were a delicacy
temperature for 24 hours to acquire acidity and of the past. Meat is usually cooked with wild
used in pitas. greens, vegetables, and pulses, very seldom
alone. Bear in mind that livestock was not
slaughtered every day. So nothing is wasted.
73
Pork was the food of Christmas and all of the would later be used for cooking with potatoes,
following were ways of preserving and serving rice, spinach or eggs.
the meat from the same pig.
Tsigarides:
Tsiladia: One more way to preserve parts of the pork
A dish cooked even in ancient times made from as it can be kept for a while. What is left of the
the head and trotters of pork. Traditionally pork skin is fried until crunchy and medium
cooked on Boxing Day and served on New brown. This could be used as a main dinner or
Year’s Day. Nowaday, it can be found all year used in other dishes to enhance the taste (Pork
round. Boiled in salt water, cut to pieces and Scratchings or Cracklings).
then reboiled with orange juice, orange peel,
Sausages:
lemon juice, bitter orange juice, cumin and
Usually made of pork meat, vinegar, salt, pepper
nutmeg. It is allowed to cool and then preserved
and cumin.
in jars, where each will have parts of the meat
covered in the liquid that will turn into a Crete is also known for the meat pies
kind of thick jelly or aspic when cooled in the (Kreatotourta or Kreatochortopita) of
refrigerator. Usually served as a starter. the different areas. Usually made with sheep,
or goat (kid) meat, malaka or myzithra and
Apaki:
herbs, or with meat and wild greens.
Made from pork tenderloin that has been
smoked with herbs (oregano, sage, bay leaf). A trademark dish would be the famous and
Traditionally it was also made at Christmas distinctive gamopylafo. At every wedding,
and served on New Year’s Day. Before the meat christening or big celebration this will be
was smoked it was kept in vinegar for 4-5 days, served. Simple and an utter killer. Boiled goat or
then patted dry, salted and smoked. It could be mutton, from which the meat is taken out and
preserved for weeks. served separately, and rice is boiled in the juice,
together with lemon juice, stakovoutyro (the
Omathies:
butter from sheep or goat milk), salt and pepper.
Also a dish made in ancient times from the small
intestine of a pig and other internal organs. It Ofto:
has changed as initially it was created as a kind A really ancient tradition that was practised by
of black pudding. Still, nowadays the small herdsmen. A little piece of land will be cleared of
intestine is filled only with the liver, spleen, growth, and a pit is opened in the ground. Then
heart, rice, onions, spices and sometimes raisins. there are two ways of making ofto. Either the
meat of goat or sheep is placed inside the gut
Syglino:
of the animal, which is sewn, and this is buried
Another way to preserve pork meat that has
under some soil on top of which a fire is lit. This
been brought down from the Byzantine times.
forms a kind of casserole that slowly cooks the
Meat from the pork is either cooked with the
meat. Or, Antikristo: the fire is lit inside the
bones, some olive oil and onions for about 20
small pit, stones are placed around, on which
minutes or smoked with herbs for one or two
spits are steadied, with the meat placed on these
days, and this meat is then preserved in fat. This
74
The wines of Crete
spits all the way around. The meat is usually water, and then tomato, olive oil, xynomyzithra,
cut into large pieces, salted and sprinkled salt and oregano are placed on the rusk.
with oregano and sometimes bound with the
A quick reference to the homemade pasta of
diaphragm to help retain the juices of the meat
which the most well known is Makaronia
and add taste. Most famously made this way in
Skioufichta. Two little cordons of dough are
Anogeia.
weaved around each other to form pieces that
Tsigariasto: look like small ropes and are usually served with
Sheep, goat, rabbit or hare meat that is braised in staka and anthotyro.
olive oil with some onion, salt, pepper, herbs and
Kallitsounia and Myzithropites:
then allowed to very slowly cooking in its own
Particular to Crete, made with myzithra,
juices (without any water added) until tender.
sweet, unsalted or sour. They are either made
Chochlioi (snails): as food (different types of cheese pies) or sweet,
One of the oldest foods as there are accounts the most famous of which are sfakianopites
of snails eaten in the neolithic age. Also, a food (served with honey) and kallitsounia
that helped people survive in periods of great chaniotika.
poverty. Snails are a peculiarity of the food of
The last to be mentioned will be xerotigana:
Crete (not eaten that much around Greece).
strips of dough, flattened and wound around
They are cooked in many different ways,
each other in a snail-like form fried in oil and
with wild greens, spinach, broad beans, okra,
served with honey, walnuts and cinnamon.
eggplant, zucchini, depending on the season of
the year. The most famous dish is Chochlioi The Cretans also make all sorts of sweets with
Boubouristi. Cooked in a pan over a layer of different fruit in syrup, different types of dessert
salt, olive oil is added, a few spoons of vinegar made of grape must, and many, many types of
and rosemary served in soup plates with all of cookies.
the juice in the pan.
One could write pages and pages on Cretan cuisine
Any vegetable you can think of is cooked in because there are endless recipes. Above is only a
Crete in multiple ways (with meat, in vegetarian tiny taste of Crete, but the important thing is to visit
dishes, with tomato sauce, with lemon Crete, try these, and many more, up close.
sauce, with herbs). I will only quickly refer to
All the information given was taken from the
Marathopita, a small flat pie made of fennel
book ‘Cretan Traditional Cuisine’ by Maria and
leaves and spring onions fried in olive oil and
Nikos Psilakis. 2018, Karamanor Publications.
is particular to Crete. Also worth mentioning is
the fact they serve artichoke leaves raw (when
very tender) and broad beans raw (again when
tender) to pair with Cretan raki (the distillate
they make of grape skins). Also, Koukouvagia
(Dakos with tomato): A big round rusk made of
coarsely ground barley that is slightly wet with
75
A GUIDE TO PAIRING FOOD

AND WINE ON CRETE
Assyrtiko
Try it with fish-based dishes, like a fish-
fricassee with lemony avgolemono sauce.
Dafni
Try it with steamed mussels and
herbs.
Muscat of Spina and

Malvasia di Candia
The aromatic character of these two wines
pairs with various dishes flavoured with
dried Mediterranean herbs. Try it also
with pumpkin risotto.
Vidiano
Try it with crisp pork belly, apricots and
mash.
76
The wines of Crete
Classic Cretan white blends

based on Vilana
Try it with seafood or pasta with
vegetable sauces, like with zucchini
and fresh tomatoes, topped with fresh
mozzarella or Cretan graviera.
Kotsifali
Try it with charcuterie and bbq dishes.
Liatiko
Try it with any tomato-based dish or
grilled pork chops.
Mandilari
Try it with traditional Cretan lamb, called
antikrysto.
77
78
The wines of Crete
Beyond wine
The island is first mentioned as Kaptara. The name Crete appears in Homer’s Odyssey.
It is considered the oldest inhabited part of Europe.
Over 50% of Crete is located at an altitude of more than 500 metres.
The Lassithi Plateau is the largest flat area of Crete (altitude 850 metres).
Crete has a length of 260 km and a width of 60 km. 12 km is the narrowest point.
There are more than 200 gorges. The gorge of Samaria is one of the largest in Europe.
More than 5,000 recorded caves. Gourgouthaka in the White Mountains is the deepest cave
in Greece, 1208 m, 44th globally. There are only 84 caves in the world deeper than 1000 metres.
Most rivers have water only after a heavy rain.
The coastline of Crete is 1,046 km.
Seawater is so clear that you can see up to 40 metres deep.
In 365 BC a catastrophic earthquake raised the western part of Crete up to 9 metres.
There are 34 islands around Crete (larger than 100 acres).
The highest mountain is Psiloritis 2456 metres. Snow is common in the big mountains from
November to May.
Every 1,000 years Crete grows 1 cm from the Sahara dust brought by the South winds.
In southern Crete swallows do not migrate. They remain on the island all year round.
The distance of Crete from Africa is about the same as it is from Europe.
There are over 1,750 species of plants, 160 of them are endemic.
There are over 30,000,000 olive trees.
79
Notes
1
Thomas F. Strasser et all, Journal of Arcaeological Science:Reports, Vol 18, April 2018, Paleolithic Cave Art from Crete
2
Maria Fevronia Gerari, infowine.gr, 7th May 2007, Wine in Ancient Greece
3
K. Kopaka, 2003, Old Wine and People: Scenes from Everyday Life of Minoan Winemaking, International Scientific
Symposium 24-26 April 1998
4
P. Sechremeli, July 2018, Analysis of the Viticultural Field of Greece, Senior Thesis Paper
5
Eti Bonn-Muller, Archaeology Magazine Archives, Volume 63, No. 1, Jan/Feb 2010, First Minoan Shipwreck
6
Th. Dettorakis, History of Crete, 2nd publication 1990, Mystis Publications
7
Rupert Millar, “Cretan Wine Amphorae Discovered at Pompeii”, Archaeology News Network, 12/08/2017
8
Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona, Kathimerini, 16/4/2002, Some Ancient Wine Lore from Dioscurides
9
Th. Dettorakis, History of Crete, 2nd publication 1990, Mystis Publications
10
Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona, The Vine and Wine in the Ancient World, Phoenix Publications Athens 2013
11
Stavrakakis M, (The Cretan Grapes 2017), p 135
12
By Boutari winery. Interview by agronomists N. Somarakis and Y. Konstantakis, March 2021
13
Interview with producer Iliana Malichin, March 2021
14
By Boutari winery. Intereview by agronomists Somarakis and Konstantakis
Biniari, K and Stavrakakis, M N, 2007 ‘Genetic study of 46 Greek grape ciltivars by random amplified polymorphic
15
DNA markers’ Proceedings of the XXXth OIV World Congress of Vine and Wine, 10-16 June 2007, Budapest
16
Up to 180 hl/ha
17
According to Hellinifera
18
110R, 140Ru, 41B are favoured
19
Interview with producer Zaharias Diamantakis, March 2021
20
Interview with producer Nikos Douloufakis, March 2021
21
Interview with producer Iliana Malihin, March 2021
22
Interview by agronomists N. Somarakis, March 2021
23
Interview by agronomists Y. Galanis, March 2021
24
25
26
in 110R, 41B, SO 4, 1103 P rootstocks
27
28
By Lyrarakis family
29
30
Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012) Wine Grapes. London: Penguin p: 1677-1678
31
Stavrakas, E. (2010) Ampelography. Athens: Zitis p 306
80
The wines of Crete
32
33
Interview by agronomists D. Tsoupeis, March 2021
34
35
Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012) Wine Grapes. London: Penguin p: 1385
36
37
Karakasis, Y. (2017) ‘To drink this week: Crete and Peloponnese’, Karakasis.mw.
https://www.karakasis.mw/drink-week-crete-and-peloponnese
38
39
40
Stavrakas, E. (2010) Ampelography. Athens: Zitis pp: 323-32
41
42
Stavrakas, E. (2010) Ampelography. Athens: Zitis pp: 333-
43
Lambert-Gocs, L. (1990) The Wines of Greece. London: Faber & Faber pp: 67-70
44
Stavrakas, E. (2010) Ampelography. Athens: Zitis pp: 330-332
45
Interview with producer Nikos Douloufakis, March 2021
46
47
48
49
50
51
Stavrakakis M, (The Cretan Grapes 2017)
52
53
54
Interview with producer Zaharias Diamantakis, March 2021
55
Carolyn Gilby, WBI 4/15
56
In 1862 in the region of Roquemaure on the right bank of the Rhône, a wine merchant named M.Borty planted a
few vines that came from the American continent. These were sent by his friend M. Carle, who unwittingly became
responsible for the greatest viticultural disaster in the history of wine. In the two succeeding summers Borty’s Grenache
and Alicante plants began to turn yellow and gradually died out. It is estimated that by the end of the following decade
50% of the French vineyards were destroyed by an insect that was transferred by the American plants. Its name was
phylloxera
57
https://www.karakasis.mw/future-greek-varieties
58
(one cohort in the United States, two cohorts in Finland, one in the Netherlands, three in Italy, five in Yugoslavia, two
in Greece, and two in Japan)
81
About the Author
Yiannis Karakasis MW became a Master of Wine

in 2015. He is a wine writer, consultant and educator.
His blog, www.karakasis.mw, has been instrumental
in communicating Greek wine to the world.
He is the author of three books: the e-book The

Vineyards and Wines of Greece 2017 (English version),
The Natural Wines in Greece, which was published in
2018 and The Wines of Santorini published in 2021.
Yiannis consults for several businesses, including

Katikies hotels and is co-founder of the First Growth
Wine School in Cyprus. He also established the 50
Great Greek Wines awards.
82
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All rights reserved. No part of this publication my be Illustrations

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Manolis Moumalidis
or by any means, including photocopying, recording,
or other electronic or mechanical methods, without
the prior written permission of the publisher. Layout
Yiannis Milionis
thetastersclub.gr

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YIANNIS KARAKASIS MW

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM

EUROPEAN UNION HELLENIC REPUBLIC

The most popular type of press found at many sites of the

The Vathypetro complex, south of Archanes, was constructed

Discoveries of tombs dated between 2500-2000 BC illustrate

Some other findings suggest that Cretan wine was exported,

In 2003, Greek archaeologist Elpida Hatjidaki received

One source suggests it originated in Lassithi

to disease and yield approximately 40 hl/ha.

It has mainly been explored in an unoaked

Sitia PDO: is mainly a semi-mountainous In Sitia, Vilana complements Thrapsathiri,

It is planted in just a few hectares and mainly

This variety may well have been used to

most diseases and suitable for sustainable

It is mainly produced in an unoaked style

September (buds in mid-March, flowers in mid-

With controlled yields of approximately 70hl/

It allegedly used to make Malvasia wine, though

It is so fragrant that even tsikoudia (the

Its grapes are small, with small stems and thin

In Maza and Temenia, the soil is richer and

Having probably originated on Santorini (it’s

Terroirs and styles In Crete

In Heraklion, it is at its best at elevation, where

Aromas Acid Body

Muscat of Spina ▲▲▲ ▲▲ ▲

It should also be noted that at the southeastern

period in humid locations and rainy years,

The variety behaves best in areas with hot

Although very dark-skinned, it makes

Costacurta et al. (2006), using molecular

Romeiko has been, and remains, a

As a variety, it is low in anthocyanin content,

Terroirs Wine styles

Other varieties to watch

Thirty-five varieties are considered

The common link of Cretan varieties is that

Of other varieties, lookout for Melissaki,

Special mention needs to be made to the

Syrah: Performs well in this Mediterranean

Grenache: Perfectly adapted to Crete, almost

Mourvèdre: Very tiny plantings on mixed

Roussanne: Very tiny plantings on mixed

Melabes Archanes PDO

Kotsifali and Mandilaria constitute the

Archanes PDO Chandakas-Candia PDO

Dafnes PDO Peza PDO

Sitia PDO Melabes

Spina, Maza Houdetsi, Stironas, Panorama

Climatically the great advantage of the area is its connection

Before the appearance of phylloxera, there was an assortment

Soil diversity: limestone in parts of Kato Asites (Korfi, Stavros,

The variety used to make Marouvas

Traditionally the grapes are harvested in the

Marouvas is a wine with intense taste

Unfortunately, there is no legal framework for

Malvasia was a sweet or semi-sweet wine produced by varying methods (late-harvested

Contemporary styles and approaches

Classic fruity and mineral

Traditional method sparkling

Single vineyard wines

Production was lower for all varieties compared to the