CRITICALBOOKREPORT

BAHASA INGGRIS

DosenPengampu :
NoraRonitaDewi,S.S.,M.Hum

DisusunOleh:
Nama : Tri Julia Fauzilla
Kelas :Regular B 2020

PRODIPENDIDIKANTATARIAS
FAKULTAS TEKNIK
UNIVERSITAS NEGERI MEDAN
T.A2021– 2022
 KATAPENGANTAR

The authorwouldlike toexpresshispraise andgratitude toGodAlmighty,becauseof His

blessings and mercy that the author was able to complete this English course paper
assignment entitled "Critical Book Report". The author would like to thank the lecturer
concerned, namely Mrs. Nora Ronita Dewi, S.S., M.Hum who has provided guidance.
Theauthoralsorealizesthatthisassignmentstillhasmanyshortcomings,thereforethe author
apologizes if there are errors in writing and the author also hopes for constructive criticism
and suggestions to improve this assignment.
Finally,theauthorwouldliketothankyou,hopefullyitwillbeusefuland canincrease
knowledge for readers.

Medan,September2023

Writer

2
 DAFTARISI

BABIPENDAHULUAN

1.1 LatarBelakang ...................................................................................................... 4

1.2 RumusanMasalah ................................................................................................. 4
1.3 Tujuan .................................................................................................................. 4

BABIIPEMBAHASAN

2.1 BibliographicInformation ..................................................................................... 5

2.2 Book Summary..................................................................................................... 5

2.3 Disadvantagesand Advantagesof Books............................................................... 9

BABIIIPENUTUP

3.1 Kesimpulan........................................................................................................... 22
3.2 Saran..................................................................................................................... 22

3
 BAB I

PENDAHULUAN

1.1 LatarBelakang
The skin is the outermost part ofthe bodythat covers the surface ofthe body
soithasanimportantrole,namelyasaprotectorofthebodyandtheexternalenvironmentfromvarious
kindsofstimulianddisturbancesfromtheoutside.Theskinconsistsoftheepidermis,dermis,andhypo
dermis.Theskinfunctionsasameansofexcretionduetothepresenceofsweatglands (sudoriferous
glands) which are located in the dermis layer. The skin functions to protect the body from
damage due to impact (mechanical damage), and protects the body from direct chemical
contact. Apart from that, the skin also protects the body from attacks by bacteria, fungi,
germs and sunlight. As an excretory organ, the skin functions to remove fat and sweat, both
of which contain water, salt, urea, and ions such as Na⁺.
Skin care is a skin care product whose purpose varies from soothing, restoring,
repairing, to protecting our skin. Dermatologist in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania, Erum Ilyas
said, someone who regularly uses skincare will keep their skin healthy and well cared for.
Good. The benefits of skincare for the face are: Overcoming facial skin problems, preventing
premature aging, making skin healthier, restoring skin condition, hydrating skin.

1.2 RumusanMasalah

1. Whataretheexplanationsofthe materialinthe Englishbookthatwillbecriticized?

2. WhataretheadvantagesanddisadvantagesoftheEnglishbookthatwillbecriticized?
3. Whatsuggestionscanbegivenforthe book initsnext printing?

1.3 Tujuan

1. Understandtheexplanationsofthematerialinthebook
2. Knowwhatthe book'sadvantagesanddisadvantagesare
3. Doyouknowwhatsuggestionsyoucangiveforthe nextprintingofthebook?

4
 BAB II

PEMBAHASAN

2.1 BibliographicInformation

Book Title :SkincareBeyondtheBasics

Author : Mark Lees

Edition : 4th Edition

ISBN :978-1-4354-8745-1

2.2 BookSummary

PerfomanceIngredientsandActiveIngredients

ProductsForDrySkin

Most products designedfor dyr skin contain a combination of humectants and

emollients to help boost moisture levels and improve the skin’s ability to hold the moisture.
Dryskinproductsoftencontainlipidreplacementingredients,aswehavepreviouslydiscussed, to
improve barrier function. Normally these products are water based, or oil-in-water
emulsionsmalthoughsomemaybewater-in-oilemulsionsdesignedformoreseverelyalipidic skin.

Treatmentswithlargeramountsofhumectantsandlessemollientsaredesignedforoiler and
combination skin. Hydration fluids designed for younger or oiler skin types may contain

5
just enough emollient to serve as a vehicle to spread the product on the skin. Because some
emollients often can clog oily skin or worsen acne-prone skin, special emollient ingredients
have been designed to be used in hydrating fluid for oilier skin.

IngredientsforAgingSkin

The amount of information that has beendiscovered inthe past two decades aboutthe
aging process is amazing. Researchers are constantly discovering new ingredients and
treatments that make skin look and behabe like younger skin.

These treatments include drug and cosmetic products and high-tech machine
technology such as lasers, LED Light treatments, and microcurrent technology. Often,
estheticianscombineseveraltypesoftheseperformanceingredientsinanindibidualizedhome- care
program for their aging client, alongwith specific professional clinic-based treatmentsin a
specialized program to achive better resulys in makin the skin look younger.

AboutAmpoulesandSerums

Ampoules are sealed vials of concentrated ingredients. They may be made of glass or
plastic.They are deignedtogiveultraintensive treatmenttotheskin.theyoften containlarger
concentrations of performance ingredients in a water base, although occasionally they are in
an oil base, ampoules must be applied under a night cream or fluid.

Ampoules are available for a wide variety of skin types and problems. Ampouls are
oftendesignedtobeusedinaseriesonceamonthorseveraltimesayear.Othersaredesigned to be used
nightly. Ampoules are frequently found in European skin care lines.

In the past decade, serums have replaced ampoules, at least in many American lines.
Likeampoules,serumscontainconcentratedingredients,ofteninliposomesorotheradvanced
delivery systems, but they are easier to use. Many serums are designed to be used daily and
sometimes twice a day.

6
Sensitiveskin,allergies,andirritants

Sensitiveskinisacommonconditionseenbyestheticians.Moreandmorewomenseem to
have sensitive skin. Skin sensitivities can be attributed to a variety of causes, from
hereditarilysensitibe skinto irritant andallergicreactionto skinthat has been overexposed to
peeling agents. 40 to 90 percent of women surveyed report that theu beliebe their skin is
sensitive, some of these clients actually do havesensitive or reactive ski, and some habe
“perceived sensitive skin”, meaning that simply believe their skin is sensitive.

Geneticfactorsaffectingsensitiveskin

Besides genetic skin thinness, already discussed, two other genetic factors may
contributed to skin sensitivity.

1. Neurologicalfactorsarethosethatinvolvenervesandthenervoussystem.Researchis
ongoing to establish some reasons for increased neurogical responses that apprarently
affect many people with sensitive skin. Investigators theorize that persons with
chronically sensitive reactive skin may have genetic defects ordamage that causes an
overresponse of nerve endings in the skin.
2. An overresponsive immune response, likely genetic in nature, may explain
hyperreactive of sensitive skin.

Sensitiveskinandbarrier function

Probablythemostimportantfactorinhelpingclientswithsensitiveskinistoprotector
restorethe barrierfunction ofthe skin.Sensitive skindoesnot havea natural barrierfunction that
is as effective as that of normal, nonsensitive skin.The skin of a client with impaired barrier
function has holes in the lipid barrier between the epidermal cells, resulting in a more
permeable(moreeasilypenetrated)epidermis.Irritantsaremorelikelytocauseinflammation
because it is easier for them to penetrate the skin's surface, where they come in contact with
poorly protected nerve endings and blood vessels.Impaired barrier function also results in
transepidermal water loss (TEWL), meaning that water is escaping from the layers of the
epidermis, causing severe dehydration and inflammation. If skin is inflamed due to a
diminished barrier function, it is more likely to react to skin care products and cosmetics.

7
 Transientsensitivityisusuallycausedbyaninjurytothe barrierfunction(forexample over-
exfoliation, sunburn, or windburn) These sensitivities usually resolve themselves when
thecauseisdeterminedandavoidedorremovedForexample,anacneclientoverusingdrying agents
may have strippedthe barrier function and may have redness and burning.When the famer is
restored by reducing theexposure to the drying products the redness and burning are no
longer a problem

Respectingthebarrierfunction

Insensitiveskin,avoidexposuretostrongdetergentsandsurfactantsandothersolvents that
can decrease bamer function by stripping important lipids. Heavily foaming washes
containlargeamountsofsurfactants,whicharechemicalsthatremoveoilsfromtheskin.They
aredesignedtoremoveexcessiveoilfromtheskinsurfacebutoftenalsoremovelipidswithin
theintercellularcement.Whiletheymaybehelpfulforanoily,nonsensitiveskin,theytendto
damagebarrierfunctioninfragile,sensitiveskin.Themoreacleanserfoams,themoredamag ing it
may be to the barrier function.

The best choice of cleanser for sensitive skin is a lightweight, nonfoaming or low-
foaming (doesn't produce much foam) lotion cleanser. Look for a gentle cleansing ingredient
such as decyl glucoside or disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate in these products. Body washes for
sensitiveskinoftencontainpetrolatumormineraloiltobufferthecontactwiththeskin.Make
suretheproducthasbeentestedforirritancypotentialbyanindependentlaboratoryContinuing to use
a foaming cleanser on a redness-prone, inflamed skin.

SkinCareTriggers

Some skin care products and ingredients have been associated with rosacea flares. In
general,drying,alcohol-basedproducts;products that evaporate quickly,such asmany toners
andastringents;andanystimulatingproductcon-tainingstimulatingessentialoils,peppermint,
menthol, or other ingredients that increase blood flow may cause a flare.

In general, many of the same precautions should be taken for rosacea as for sensitive
skin.Makesureanyproductsusedhavebeenthoroughlyirritancy-tested.Avoidtoners,oruse
analcohol-freetonerthathasbeentestedonsensitiveskinAvoidingexfoliants,especially

8
granularorroughscrubs,isagoodnule.Anythingthatscrapestheskincancauserednessand a
possible flare.

THEADVANTAGESANDDISADVANTAGESOFTHEBOOK

Book advantagesofthe book'scontents

• Theidentityandbasicinformationinthisbookarewrittenclearly,andthisbookalready has
an ISBN
• Therearesupportingimagesintheexplanationofthematerialinthisbooktohelp readers
visualize and understand the material in this book.
• Thisbookisavailableinebookform,soreaderscanreadthisbookontheircellphones without
having to carry the book everywhere
• Thecoverofthisbookisveryattractiveandmatchesthetitleandcontentofthe material.
• The contents of this book are explained well and use simple language so it is easy to
understand.

shortcomingsofthe book'scontents

• Thereviewerfoundnoshortcomingsinthecontentsofthisbook

Identityofbook 2

Booktitle:Miladyskincareandcosmeticingredientsdictionary Publication

Year : 2014

Writer:M.VariniaMichalunandJosephC.Dinardo Publisher:

Cengage learning

Edition : 4

Cityofissue:-

9
ISBN:-

Coverview :

BOOKSUMMARY

Theskinisthebody'slargestorgan.Ithasbeencalledthebody'sarmorbecauseitkeeps all the

organs and muscles safe from the elements outside the body that can cause harm-like
thesun'srays,bacteria,insects,andirritatingchemicals.Inaddition,theskinhelpsinregulating a
number of the body's functions, including temperature and eliminating toxic chemicals. Its
mostimportantrolebyfar,though,istokeepthebody'swaterfromevaporating.Whenweare
born,90percentofourbodyismadeupofwater;asweageitreducesto70percentandmight even drop
as low as 50 percent in our later years. Without healthy, intact skin covering our body we
would die.

Giventheskin'simportancetooursurvival,itisessentialthatwelearnhowtotakecare of it,
not only so that we look beautiful, but so we can also live long, healthy lives. From this
perspective, it is impor- tant that all skincare professionals, from estheticians to physicians,
haveagoodunderstandingofskinstructure(anatomy)andfunc-tion(physiology),skintypes and
conditions, as well as what happens when cosmetics or other products are applied to the
skin.Thesameunderstandingisalsoimportantforcosmeticconsumers,particularlygiventhe
amount of information and misinformation about cosmet- ics currently available. That is the
purpose of this book-to better in- form skincare professionals and their clients about how and
why a product impacts the skin, and the purpose and function of individualingredients in a
cosmetic formulation.

10
 Before moving into a discussion of the skin-its anatomy, physi- ology, typing and
common problems-and its interaction with cos- metic ingredients and products, it may be
helpful to concentrate a moment on the history of cosmetic ingredients and regulation. Cos-
metics and the cosmetic industry are heading in directions that will be of great benefit to skin
care professionals and cosmetic users, but in order to understand what these directions mean,
it is important to understand the links between the past and the present. Historically, people
used common or everyday substances for beautifying, healing, soothing, or creating other
effects. Cleopatra was well known for using sour milk on her skin.

In 1938, skin was commonly considered a dead tissue, and thought to be almost
completelyimpermeable.Keepingitcleanandapplyingmakeupto"altertheappearance"was more
than an adequate way to describe what a cosmetic product should do. However, in the 1980s
doctors Van Scott and Yu patented AHA tech- nology. In their patent, they illustrated
thattheseingredientscouldthinverythickskinbyexfoliation,plumpupskinbyincreasingthe water-
binding materials naturally found in skin called humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid), and
helpminimizelinesandwrinklesbystim-ulatingtheproductionofsuchmaterialsascollagen,
givingtheskinastrongerbaseorfoundation.Allofthesechangesintheskindem-onstratean
alteringofits"structureandfunction,"whichaccordingtothe1938FDAdefinition,wouldbe
considered drug claims. Yet, as mentioned earlier, AHAS have revolutionized the cosmetic
industry and are found in many skin care products.

Our under- standing about what happens in skin when an ingredient or prod- uct is
appliedtoit-biochemistry-aswell asbeingable tomeasure these changesdowntothe cellular
level-analytical chemistry-has become extremely advanced. These capacities did not exist
when the FDA developed its law. Today, one can say that almost all ingre- dients impact the
"structure or function" ofthe skin in one way or another.This beingthe case, it would appear
that the only way the FDA can enforce the 1938 Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act is by either
establishing "logical standards," which would require receiving a sig- nificant increase in
resources (funding, equipment, and personnel); or by continuing to let the cosmetic industry
regulate itself. The cost to redefine this almost two hundred billion dollar global industry is
more than most governments are willing to do. This is especially the case since the cosmetic
industry has caused very minimal problems worldwide.

Any confusion is compounded by differences in regulation between the United States

andEurope,forexample.Itisalsoapoten-tialprobleminlightofthevastnumberofnew

11
ingredients and skin care concepts available to chemists, professionals, and consumers. The
cosmeceutical revolution that began with AHAS has expanded and become even more
sophisticated and effective. Botanically based products are experiencing a renaissance and
renewed credibility as chemists and formulators become increasingly precise in their tech-
nologiesandabilitytoisolateabotanical'stherapeuticcomponents.Carotenoids,forexample, as
well as flavonoids, peptides, polyphe- nols, and phytoestrogens all fall into this category.
Animal-based ingredients are now replaced with plant-based or synthetically manu- factured
equivalents,andevenbotanicallyderivedingredientshave syntheticequivalentsthatare more
frequently used for their purity and predictability.

TheFunctionsOfThe Skin

As the body's largest organ, the skin performs a series of key functions resulting from
multiple chemical and physical reactions that take place within it. The skin is a barrier,
protectingthebodyfromexternalelements,injury,andoxidation.Ithelpsmaintainaconstant body
temperature through the regulation of moisture loss thereby helping the body adapt to
differentambienttemperaturesandatmosphericconditions.Itgatherssensoryinformationand
playsanactiveroleintheimmunesystem,protectingthebodyfromdisease.Inordertoperform all of
these Functions protective, metabolic, sensory, and immunological-the skin must maintain its
own auto-repairing capacities and functional integrity.

The skin plays an immunological role, primarily through the Langerhans cells, which
carry antigens from the skin to the lymphatic system. Excessive UV radiation either destroys
or inhibits the perfor- mance of Langerhans cells, increasing the risk of skin cancer. The skin
tendstobediscussedandtreatedasanentityuntoitself,sothiscloserelationshipbetweenthe
skinandthebodyisoftenoverlookedorfor-gotten.Althoughitprotectsthebodyinavariety of ways,
the skin and its condition are governed by a number of internal body functions. For
example,skinoilinessarisesfromoilglandhyperactivityandpigmenta-tionproblemsaredue
tothetyrosinaseenzyme;bothcanberegulatedbyhormonalfunctions.Giventhisrelationship
betweenthe skinand the body, forthe skin to lookits best,there is a needto maintain overall
health through proper nutrition, exercise, and rest. This connection also high- lights the
potential problems that ingredients penetrating deep into the dermis may cause if they are
systemically absorbed by the capillary system.

12
SkinComponentsAnd Structure

Theskinhasaveryintricatemicroanatomicalstructure.Inadditiontothousandsofskin cells,
within one square inch of skin, varying from 0.04 inches (1 mm) to 0.16 inches (4 mm) in
thickness, there are some hair follicle, and from there to the skin surface. The perspiration
from apocrine sweat glands can smell unpleasant due to a chemical reaction between the
excretion,oxygen,andtheenzymesproducedbythebac-teria(microflora)inthehairfollicle and on
the skin.

It is important to note that impurities and/or congestion seen in the pores occur in the
hair follicle. They are the result of a mix- ture produced by sebum, keratin from stratum
corneum cells (cor- neocytes), and bacteria present in the follicle. Cleansing the skin means
eliminating impurities from these pores. Perspiration is not a cleanser. It may help clean the
tiny opening of the sweat pores, but perspiration will not cleanse the hair follicle, the pore
throughwhichoilissecreted.Thisisaregularmisconceptionbythosewhofeelthatsaunasor
perspiration cleanse the skin.

LayersOf TheSkin

Theskinisahighlyspecializedandcomplexsetoftissuesdividedintothreelayers:the
epidermis,dermis,andhypodermis,alsoknownasthe subcutaneouslayer(Figure 1-1).There are
several different types of cells in the skin, the most important of which are keratinocytes,
melanocytes, fibroblasts, and a variety of immune cells (Langerhans, migrating mononuclear
Cells and mast cells)

13
 Other physiologically important functions such as hydration, temperature regulation,
and the regulation of the skin's permeabil- ity depend on specific cells and the chemical
composition of the ECM. These regulatory functions are closely linked to the interac- tion
between the cells and the chemicals in the skin through special recentors located on the
membrane of each cell. These receptors can be thought of as antennae that help cells
communicate with each other and with their environment. They are also able to bind with
various chemical components that pass between cells. Among these chemical substances are
certain ingredients commonly used in cos- metics (such as retinol) that interact withcells and
perform a variety of therapeutic functions through cellular receptors.

The epidermis is the part of the skin visible to the naked eye. It is a very thin layer
approximately 25 to 30 cell layers deep: its thick- ness varies from 0.063 inches (1.6 mm) on
thesolesofthefeetto0.002inches(0.04mm)ontheeyelids.Theepidermiscontainsavariety of cells,
including keratinocytes, which are engagedin a constant pro-cess of reproduction to replace
exfoliated cells; Langerhans cellsfor immunological protection; melanocytes for skin
color;andMerkelcellsthatareinvolvedinthefunctionoftouch.Theepidermisisthelayerof
skintowhichproductsareapplied,andtheonewithwhichanindividual(andcosmetics)comes most
in contact when cleansing, exfoliating, healing, and hydrating.

Understandingtheepidermisisextremelyimportantfordiscussingproductpenetration, the
definition of cosmetic versus pharmaceu- tical action according to FDA regulation, and
productefficacy.Theepidermisgivestheskinitsglow,youthfulness,texture,andgood looks.

14
It is responsible for the skin's health, protecting it from moisture loss and the penetration of
bacteria. UV rays, acne conditions, visible skin disease, cigarette smoke, pollution, and skin
cancer all affect this layer.

TheHypodermis

Thehypodermisorsubcutaneousfascia(fat)isthethirdandlastlayeroftheskin.Itlies just
below the dermis and the deepertissues known as fascia andmuscle.This layergives the skin
its shape and works as a thermal insulator, shock absorber, and nutritional depot where nu-
trients can be stored until needed. The layer is firmly attached to the lower surface of the
dermisbutlooselyboundtoitsunderlyingstruc-tures,givingtheskinmobilityoverthedeeper
fascia.Thefatlobulesofthetissuearesurroundedbycollagenfibers,whichsupportvascu-lar
networks,lymphvessels,andnervesfromtheunderliningtissuestothedermis.Itisnotpresent where
the skin is especially thin such as the eyelids, nipples, genitals, and shins.

Generally speaking, this layer is not normally considered when formulating cosmetic
products, except when trying to minimize cel- lulite and/or reduce the overall thickness of
various body parts, for example the thighs and belly in the case of slimming products. Addi-
tionally,recentresearchhasshownthatnutrientstakenorallymaybestoredinthistissue,such as fat
soluble anti-oxidants, that can later be transferred to the dermis and/or epidermis to
minimizedamagefromfreeradicals.Lastly,itshouldbe notedthatworkingwiththislayerof skin can
be important in other therapeutic areas like Rolfing.

Aging

Skin aging is a complex, biological process affecting various layers of the skin-most
significantly the dermis-and includes a modifi- cation of genetic material. Among the events
that occur in the aging process are deficiencies in the nutritional components within the dif-
ferent tissues, cellular destruction through excessive sun exposure, the effect of free radicals
onthecellularmembrane,deteriorationinthegeneticprogrammingoftheDNA,andadecrease in
cellular pro- liferation. The impact on skin tissue is a loss of elasticity, a reduced ability to
regulate water, and a less efficient replication or renewal process. The consequences are skin
atrophy and a general process of degeneration.

The complexion looks withered, and assumes a lackluster hue as melanin production
diminishes.Agingskincanberecognizedbyitspoorelasticity,lackofnormalfirm-ness,and sagging
dueto the breakdown of collagenand elastinin the dermis. Agingis accompanied by

15
a slowing down of cell proliferation. Skin thickness decreases with age. On average, the skin
losesabout6percentofitsthicknessevery10years.Thismeansthatsomeonewhois100years old
willhavelostapproximately 60 percent of theirinitialskin volume.Thisimpactsboth the
epidermis and dermis.

Skin aging can be grouped into two categories. The first is intrinsic or chronological
aging, which results from the passage of time, and is the slow irreversible process of tissue
degeneration. Intrinsic aging is linked to the transformation of connective tissue and the
decreaseofcellularregeneration.Thesecondcategoryisextrinsicaging.Itisoftenreferredto as
photoaging since it is primarily due to sun (UV) exposure, which damages or destroys
cellularreproductiveabilitiesanddegener-atescollagenandelastin.Itsclinicalcharacteristics
includefinelinesandwrinkles,roughness,pigmentation,couperose,actinickeratosis,andskin
cancer.

Highly effective ingredients are available for correction in many cosmeceutical

products. Among the most sophisticated ingredients currently available are idebenone and
coffee-berry, powerful anti- oxidants that reduce collagen destruction and appear to affect
intrinsic aging from oxidative damage. Various forms of vitamin A, especially retinol or
retinoicacid,glycolicandlacticacids,numerouspeptidesandaminoacidsareamongthemany
ingredients that appear to be effective when working with aging skin. Among the beneficial
botani-calingredientsforanti-agingtreatmentareapricot,foritsvitaminsA,B,C,andDand anti-
oxidantcontent;carrot,foritsvitaminAandmineralsalts;andhorseradish,foritsability
toimproveskinconnec-tivetissues,regulateskinfunctions,increasetheskin'sdefensemecha-
nisms, and prevent and/or counteract wrinkle formation.

Couperose

Couperosecanbeatemporaryorchronicrednessappearingontheface.Itshowsupas
small,dilated,winding,brightredbloodvesselsonthecheeks,aroundthenose,andsometimes
onthechin.Couperoseoccursprimarilyasaresultofpoorelasticityinthecapillarywall.When there is
a sudden rush of blood because of blushing, excessive heat, or other stimuli, the
capillariesexpand,makingroomfortheincreaseofblood.Whentheamountofbloodrecedes, the
capillaries contract to their normal size, If the capillary wall is not sufficiently elastic, it
willexpandbutnotcontractagaintoitsoriginalshapeorsize.Theresultisadistendedcapillary that
will hold blood cells within its structure, thus giving the appearance of diffuse or local
redness.Couperoseisaggravatedbyatmosphericconditionssuchashotorcoldclimates,by

16
theuseofexcessivelycoldorhotwater,nervousdisorders,digestivedisorders,saunas,exercise
thatcausesthefacetoturnveryred,drinkingalcoholandveryhotliquids,eatingspicyfoods, blushing,
and excessive sun exposure.

Dehydration

Dehydration-a lack of sufficient moisture in the cellular system and intercellular

channels-is one of the most common skin conditions. Dehydration is caused by the
compromised permeability of the lipid barrier; cracks in the skin due to a decrease in the
suppleness,soft-ness,andflexibilityofthestratumcorneum;areductioninsizeoftheflattened
corneocytes; and a lower capacity by the skin to retain mois- ture, usually resulting from
decreased glycosaminoglycan levels due to skin aging or damage. Dehydration is aggravated
byatmosphericconditionsthatin-cludetoomuchsunandwindaswellasnotusingsunscreens and/or
daytime protective moisturizers containing anti-oxidants.

Pigmentation

Melaninproductionisanormalprocessintheskin'scellularactiv-ity,andgivesriseto
skincolororpigmentation.Melaninisproducedandstoredinorganellescalledmelanosomes, which
are found in melanocyte cells, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Mela- nin is
disbursedthroughtheskinbyachemicalprocessthatallowsthemelanosomestopassintothe
keratinocytes or skin cells. Once in the keratinocyte, the melanosome loses its membrane and
releases the melanin, giving the skin its natural color.

Melanin production is a very complicated biochemical reaction that is driven by the

tyrosine protein, which is activated by the tyrosine's enzyme in an oxidative chain reaction.
ExposuretoUVlightandtheconsequentincreaseintheoxidative processthatcanoccurfrom
suchexposurecausesanin-creaseinmelaninproduction.Thisreactioncanalsobehormonally
controlled, which explains why melasma (also known as the mask of pregnancy) can result
from pregnancy as well as be associated with the use of contraceptives. Menopause and
prolonged periods of intense. stress are also believed to cause melasma in susceptible
individuals.

Hyperpigmentation results from an uneven distribution of melanin over the skin

surface, either due to pigment accumulation, as in the case of age spots or lentigo, or because
ofunevenmelaninproduction/absorptionbythemelanocytes,asinthecaseofme-lasma.The

17
rateofmelaninproductionvariesfrompersontopersonandfromracetorace,beinggreaterin darker-
skinned individu- als.

BasicorSimpleIrritation

Itisprobablethateveryonehaseitherseenorexperiencedsomeformofskinirritation.
InCaucasian,European,andHispanicskin(lighttomediumpigmentation),irritationcanrange
fromasimple,small,pale-redpatchofskintoalargeareathatisintensecrimsonredincolor. Asian skin
can react more intensely to irritation, demonstrat- ing deeper red colorations. In
contrast,womenofcolor(mediumtodarkpigmentation)maynotexhibitrednessatall.Instead
theywilloftendemonstrateadecreaseincoloratthesiteofirritation,causinganimbalancein
overallskincoloration.Skinirritationonlyappearsintheareawhereaproducthasbeenapplied
andusuallydevelopswithin6to24hoursafterproductuse.Intheeventapersondevelopsthis
typeofreactiontheyshould(1)washtheproductofftheskinassoonaspossibleand(ii)discon- tinue
product use until the reaction completely disappears, usually within 72 to 96 hours.

SubjectiveIrritationReactions:Burning/Stinging/Itching

Burning,stinging,anditchingaresubjectiveirritationreactionsthatareconsideredsub-
clinicalin nature, i.e., not visible to the eye. It is not clear why people experience this type of
reaction; however, there is a direct correlation between subjective irritation reactions and a
drop in temperature and humidity in the air. More specifically, when the climate goes from
warmtocoldandthereislesshumidityormoistureisintheair-inwinter,forexample-thereis
anincrease inthe amountofskinburning,stinging,anditchingcomplaints.Forthese typesof
reactions, minimizing the number of products used, as described for chemical folliculitis,
and/orusingasimplecleanserwithaheavymoisturizersuch asabarriercreamcanbehelpful until the
skin acclimates to the changes in the environment.

Allergireactions

Allergi reactions are often very complex and can be difficult to determine. Therefore,
it is always best to leave it up to experts-for instance allergists or dermatologists-who are
familiarwith"ContactDermatitis Patch Testing."Thereare severaltypes ofallergicreactions with
many different mechanisms of action. Three of the most com-mon forms are immediate
hypersensitivity,delayedhypersensitiv-ityorallergicreactions,andutricaria.Ingredientsthat can
most often cause such sensitivity are fragrances, preservatives, and some chemical
sunscreens.

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 Immediate hypersensitivity is exactly what its name implies: the reaction typically
occurs within30 minutes of beingexposed to a product oringredientto which oneis allergic.
These reactions can often be very severe, producing significant swelling and redness, and
potentiallycausingapersontogointoanaphylacticshockandstopbreathing.Intheeventofa severe
reaction, medical treatment should be obtained immediately at a nearby hospital emergency
room. In re- actions not involving difficulty in breathing, clients should see their physician as
soon as possible to minimize the length and severity of the reaction. Treatment
usuallyconsistsofeitherinjectableororalsteroids,astopicaltreatmentwithcreamsorgelsis too slow
and usu- ally avoided.

Post-inflammatoryHyper-orHypopigmentation(PIH)

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (too much) or hypopigmenta- tion (too little)

reactions are either irritant or allergic in nature, and can be caused by the inflammation
associated with either adverse reaction. A hyperpigmentation reaction causes an
overproduction of melanin in the skin, resulting in a darker and uneven skin tone where the
adverse reaction occurred. A hypopigmentation reaction causes the opposite to occur leaving
the area with less pigment than the surrounding skin. The latter reaction is more common in
darker skin tones. Both types of pigmentation reactions are uncommon but can occur after an
adverse event, and are very difficult and time- consuming to treat.

COSMETICINGREDIENTS

Thereare roughly 69millionindividualchemicals and/or chemical combinations used

intheworldtoday.ThisisthenumberpublishedbytheChemicalAbstractSociety(CAS)that assigns
the unique Chemical Abstract Numbers used to track each substance. Addition- ally,
approximately 15,000 new chemical substances are submitted for CAS numbers every day.
The fact that there are that many chemi- cals substances is worrisome, but more alarming is
that less than 1 percent of them have been tested for safety.

According to one of the largest trade association groups, The Personal Care Product
Council(formerlyknownastheCosmetic,ToiletriesandFragranceAssociation,CTFA),there are
approximately 17,500 different ingredients and ingredient mixtures that can be used in
cosmetic products. Part II of this book, "Product Ingredients," is a comprehensive list of
ingredients that are commonly used in prod- ucts. This is helpful when first looking at a new
product.Compar-ingtheingredientlabelingontheproductswiththeingredientsandfunctions

19
described in this book will help identify the value a product holds. There are three key issues
to be aware of with respect to cos- metic ingredients and mixtures:

1. Ingredientscan bemulti-functional.
2. Pairedingredientscanworksynergisticallysothatoneplusoneequalsmorethantwo.
3. Theorderinwhichcosmetic ingredientsarelistedona label.

Most ingredients can be multi-functional. For example, sali- cylic acid is commonly used
as an acne active in over-the-counter (OTC) products, but it is also considered an effective
preservative,apHbuffer,andananti-agingingredientbecauseitisabetahydroxyacid(BHA)
andthuscapableofreversingthesignsofprematureag-ing.Lacticacid,analphahydroxyacid
(AHA),isanexfoliatingagent,butitcanalsonormalizeepidermalstructure,andstimulatethe pro-
ductionofhyaluronicacid,collagen,andelastin.Whenevaluatingaproductitisimportant
tounderstandwhataningredientcanbeexpectedtodointheproduct,i.e.,isitservingprimarily as a
preservative, as an anti-aging ingredient, a solvent, etc.

THEADVANTAGESANDDISADVANTAGESOFTHEBOOK

BookAdvantagescomparison

1. Bookscanbe accessedvia theinternet,namelyfromGoogle

2. Thecontentsofthisbookexplainthatpeople'smisconceptionsaboutsaunasandsweat can
cleanse the skin, it turns out that sweat is not a cleanser. This may help clean the
tinyopeningsofsweatpores,butsweatwillnotcleanhairfollicles,theporeswhereoil comes
out.
3. The contentsof the bookalso explainthe layersof theskin.
4. In thecontentsof thebookthereisaveryclearexplanation of theepidermis.
5. In the contents of the book there is an explanation regarding Skin irritation only
appearing in the area where the product is used and usually develops within 6 to 24
hours after using the product. If a person experiences a reaction like this, they should
(1) wash the product off the skin as soon as possible, and (2) stop using the product
until the reaction has completely disappeared, usually within 72 to 96 hours.

lackofbooks

1. The appearance ofthe coverislessattractive.

20
2. Theidentityofthebookisincompletesopotentialreadershavealittledifficultyfinding the
book.
3. Thereisnosummaryofthe contentsofthe book.
4. Thereisnoglossriumwhichcanmakeiteasierforreaderstofindoutwordsor vocabulary that
readers have never known.

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 BAB III

PENUTUP

1.1 Kesimpulan

After comparing the two English books above, the author can conclude that both books
are good and good for increasing readers' insight into education. These two books clearly
discusstheskin,whichistheoutermostpartofthebodythatcoversthesurfaceofthebody, so it has an
important role, namely as a protector of the body and the external environment from various
kinds of external stimuli anddisturbances. The skin consists of theepidermis, dermis, and
hypodermis.

1.2 Saran

For prospective readers, especially cosmetology students, find out and read books about
skinproblemsandtheingredientscontainedinskincareandcosmeticproductsinordertobetter
understand and know how to choose cosmetic products such as makeup, skincare, body care,
etc. that are good and suitable for facial skin. . So that facial skin is not damaged and which
results in facial skin becoming unhealthy

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