HAND FEEL OF THE FABRIC

SUBMITTED BY: NISHA

NAINSHI
PREKSHA JAIN
JAYANT
 OBJECTIVE
The project aims to compare the hand feel of natural indigo
dye, synthetic indigo dye, natural red dye (derived from
dhawadi flowers), natural black dye (made from iron rust
water), and yellow dye (created from harada seeds) on cotton
fabric. The objective is to assess and understand the tactile
differences among these dye types to provide valuable insights
for consumers in making informed choices based on their
preferences.
 WHAT IS HAND FEEL OF THE FABRIC

The fabric hand is examined mainly by the sense of touch and the sensory signals sent to the brain
are formulated and clustered as subjective perception of sensations. A fabric handle is a complex
parameter related to several fabric properties such as flexibility, compressibility, elasticity, resilience,
density, roughness, smoothness, surface friction and thermal characteristics.

Fabric hand is examined mainly by the sense of touch and the sensory signals sent to the brain are
formulated and clustered as subjective perceptions of sensations as follows:

Tactile sensations: prickly, tickling, rough, smooth, craggy, scratchy, itchy, picky, sticky.
Moisture sensations: clammy, damp, wet, sticky, sultry, non-absorbent.
Pressure (body fit) sensations: snug, loose, lightweight, heavy, soft, stiff.
Thermal sensations: cold, chill, cool, warm, hot.
FACTORS INFLUENCING THE FABRIC HAND FEEL

Fiber characteristics: Material type, morphological structure, fineness, length, friction

property, resilience, compressibility etc.

Yarn characteristics: Yarn type (staple fiber, continuous filament, textured), linear density,
twist etc.

Fabric characteristics: Production method (woven, knitted, non-woven), fabric

construction, weight, thickness, surface roughness, structure, yarn density.

Method and type of dyeing and finishing processes (heat treatment, brushing, calendaring,
softening, etc
 METHODS TO EVALUATE HAND
FEEL OF THE FABRIC

Subjective Method Objective Method

Direct Method Comparative Method

SUBJECTIVE METHOD TO EVALUATE HAND FEEL

Subjective assessment treats fabric hand as a psychological reaction obtained from the sense of touch.
The fabric hand feel is examined mainly by the sense of touch and the sensory signals sent to the
brain are formulated and clustered as subjective perception of sensations. A fabric handle is a
complex parameter related to several fabric properties such as flexibility, compressibility, elasticity,
resilience, density, roughness, smoothness, surface friction and thermal characteristics.

Fabric hand feel is examined mainly by the sense of touch and the sensory signals sent to the brain
are formulated and clustered as subjective perceptions of sensations as follows:

Tactile sensations: prickly, tickling, rough, smooth, craggy, scratchy, itchy, picky, sticky.
Moisture sensations: clammy, damp, wet, sticky, sultry, non-absorbent, clingy.
Pressure (body fit) sensations: snug, loose, lightweight, heavy, soft, stiff.
Thermal sensations: cold, chill, cool, warm, hot.
HANDLE TECHNIQUES TO EVALUATE HAND FEEL
RANKING SCALE TO MEASURE THE HAND FEEL
OF THE FABRIC

The direct method is based on the

principle of sorting individual
textiles to define subjective grades on
an ordinal scale,
(e.g., 0 - very poor, 1 - sufficient, 5 -
very good, 6 -excellent).
 Ranking(Natural
FEEL Remark(Natural) Ranking(Synthetic) Remark(Synthetic)
OBSERVATION )

1: Cotton fabric If high quality synthetic indigo

Cotton dyed with
dyed with Natural natural indigo tends to
will be applied properly to cotton
indigo dye SOFTNESS 5
maintain the natural
6 fabric then there will be similar
results as of natural indigo but,
softness of cotton fabric
bad impact on environment.

Natural indigo dye Can feel slightly stiffer or

contributes to the harsher if not applied properly or
smoothness of cotton with low-quality dyes. However,
SMOOTHNESS 4 3
fabric through its high-quality synthetic indigo can
unique characteristics achieve a smoothness comparable
and the dyeing process. to natural indigo.

Natural indigo
contributes to the
overall texture and
Some synthetic indigo
appearance of cotton,
formulations might contain
its impact on the
SLIPPERINESS 8 7 lubricants or softeners that could
slipperiness of the
slightly increase the fabric's
fabric is secondary to
slipperiness.
other factors involved in
the production and
finishing of the textile.
 Ranking
Ranking(Sy
FEEL (Natural Remark(Natural) Remark(Synthetic)
nthetic)
)

Observation 2:
Cotton fabric Some natural red
dyes, like madder and
dyed with red
Harsh than Natural dyed
cochineal, are known
SOFTNESS 5 7 fabric if not dyed properly or
for producing softer
dye: results compared to
with low-quality dye.

certain synthetic reds.

natural dyes might

have a slight edge due Smoother than natural ones if
SMOOTHNESS 5 3
to their organic used properly.
nature.

Enhance slipperiness
due to their organic Uneven dye distribution,
nature and potential clumping, or stiffness, making
SLIPPERINESS 7 8
for micro-crystal the fabric feel rougher and less
deposits that create a smooth.
subtle sheen.
Observation 3. FEEL
RANKING(
REMARK(Natural)
Ranking(Syn
Remark(Synthetic)
Natural ) thetic)
Cotton fabric
dyed in green cotton dyed with
Softness is not
color SOFTNESS 3 natural dye has a 5
affected.
slightly soft texture.

Cotton fabric is
SMOOTHNE dyed with natural Smoothness is not
4 5
SS dyes having a soft affected by dyes.
texture.

Cotton fabric dyed

with natural dyes
Slipperiness of the
SLIPPERINE affect the texture of
7 6 fabric is slightly
SS fabric and
increase.
slipperiness depends
on fabric finishing.
 Ranking Remark Ranking
FEEL Remark(Synthetic)
(Natural) (Natural) (Synthetic)

Observation 4. The cotton fabric dyed with

natural iron black dye
Cotton fabric reduce softness because
This can lead to stiffness,
SOFTNESS 6 7 harshness, and reduced drape,
dyed with iron particles stick to the
impacting softness.
fabric and impact it’s
black dye softness.

Natural iron dyes can

deposit micro-crystals,
SMOOTHNESS 6 creating a subtle sheen or
texture that can enhance
smoothness.
Black dye, particularly older
formulations, might use harsh
5
chemicals that can damage
fibres, impacting smoothness.

Natural black dyes

SLIPPERINESS 6 generally don't significantly 7 The effect will be more subtle.
affect slipperiness.
 Ranking(
Ranking(Natur
FEEL Remark(Natural) Synthetic Remark(Synthetic)
al)
)

OBSERVATION 5: Canvas dyed with High-quality synthetic

Canvas fabric dyed natural indigo is stiff indigo and proper dyeing
with Natural indigo SOFTNESS 10 and rigid. It is tougher techniques should have
7
dye than cotton and silk minimal impact on
fabric. canvas softness.

Synthetic indigo may

Canvas fabric dyed
slightly fill in gaps
with natural indigo is
SMOOTHNESS 10 7 between canvas fibres,
rough,uneven and
creating a smoother
coarser.
surface.

Impact on the
slipperiness of the
Synthetic indigo itself
fabric is secondary to
SLIPPERINESS 10 10 doesn't significantly
other factors involved
affect slipperiness.
in the production and
finishing of the textile.
CONCLUSION
This project's findings offer valuable insights for customers in selecting
textiles based on their preferred tactile experiences. Understanding the
impact of natural indigo, synthetic indigo, red, black, and yellow dyes on
different fabrics enables consumers to make informed choices tailored to
their comfort preferences. This knowledge empowers customers to make
more satisfying and personalised decisions when purchasing clothing or
other textile products.
REFERENCES

BOOK: Fabric Sensory and Mechanical Properties, The Textile Institute, Textile Progress, UK,
Volume 6
Research paper: Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Fabric Handle Characteristics, The University
of Leeds, Department of Textile Industries, Master of Science
Measurements in Explaining Human Comfort Response to Textiles, International
Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 14
Handbook of Weaving, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, Chapter 13:
Fabric Structure, Properties and Testing, By Sulzer Textil Limited Switzerland
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/4294797
SUBJECTIVE AND OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF FABRIC HANDLE CHARACTERISTICS
by Bachik Abu Bakar
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. AATCC evaluation procedure 5-2011,
AATCC technical manual. Research Triangle Park, North Carolina: American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists, 2014
THANK YOU