Professional Documents
Culture Documents
These risks include cuts on body parts, amputation of fingers and hands, abrasions, eye injuries,
electrocution and hearing impairment.
Some machines emit fine saw dust which may also cause respiratory problems.
In order to safeguard yourself from these risks, one should be able to identify the dangerous
machine parts as well as the safety precautions that should be observed to minimize the risks.
The machine parts that cause most injuries include rotating cutters, rotating wheels, moving
parts as well as pressing parts.
There are several general safety precautions that one should observe to mitigate the risks that
may result from using woodworking machines.
In addition to the general safety precautions, there are specific parts safety rules that are
observed when using specific machines.
1. Avoid horseplay.
2. Remove all loose clothing like neck ties, wrist watches, necklaces and other jewellery that may get
caught up in the moving parts of the machine.
1. The workshop and area around the machine should be level and not slippery.
2. Remove all obstacles that may lead to tripping, from the machine. The machine should be free
of clutter from tools, off cuts, shavings and sawdust
3. Draw a 90 cm perimeter around the woodworking machines. Only the person operating the
machine should be allowed inside this demarcated area.
4. Ensure that the area around the machine has enough lighting
5. Remove any spills that may make the area around the machine slippery.
1. Know the location of the workshop emergence electrical circuit stop button. This information
may become handy where the whole electrical circuit connecting the machines has to be
switched off.
2. Be familiar with the location of start and stop buttons on the machines and their colour codes.
Start buttons are usually coloured green and stop buttons are usually coloured red
3. Ensure that the on and stop buttons are protected from accidental contact
4. Do not ask someone else to switch on or switch off the machine for you.
5. Do not stand behind the Iine of the cuts when switching on the machine. You should stand by
the side of the machine when starting the machine.
6. All wrenches and keys should be removed from the machine before switching it on
7. Make sure that the machine is properly grounded before using it.
8. Do not attempt to repair damaged cables or any electrical faults. Refer all queries to your
teacher
9. Unplug or isolate a machine from the electrical socket when making adjustments changing
cutters or cleaning the machine
10. When plugging in the cable into the electrical socket, make sure the machine has been switched
off. Also switch off the socket before inserting the plug.
11. Do not operate the machine if the conditions in the workshop are damp or wet.
1. All cutters must be covered by safety guards before using the machine.
3. Ensure that fences, tool rests and jigs are in place and in good condition before using the
machine
4. Mechanical feeding mechanisms should be used on machines that require mechanical feeding
3. Ensure that you work against the rotation of the cutters. The direction of feeding the wood
should oppose rotation of the cutters
4. Wait until the machine has reached maximum speed before feeding in your work
8. Use push sticks, push blocks or jigs when feeding in your workpiece.
11. Do not stand directly behind a work piece that is being machined.
Circular saw
A circular saw is sometimes called a table circular saw or bench circular saw.
It is identified a circular saw blade the table or saw blade that is housed in a metal box.
The table
The table is the cast iron box that houses the motor, spindle and the saw blade.
It has a flat top which has a gap through which the blade protrudes.
The gap also allows access to the inside of the metal box.
The table of small circular saws found in most school workshops is mounted on metal frames
rather than being fixed to the floor as is the case with large circular saws.
Spindle
The spindle is raised up and down by the depth adjusting wheel to adjust the depth of the blade
The blade
The blade can either have cross cut saw teeth or rip saw teeth.
Some saw teeth are made from a strong metal alloy called Tungsten carbide
These teeth are called tungsten carbide tipped teeth (TC T).
A depth adjusting wheel is a cranked wheel that is wound to raise or lower the blade in order to
adjust its depth of cut.
It is used to tilt the blade and also useful when cutting bevels or splay edges.
Riving knife
A riving knife is a piece of flat metal that is fixed behind the circular saw blade.
It curls towards the blade and fits in the saw kerf of the piece being cut.
This is done to prevent the end of the kerf from closing onto the workpiece and jamming the
saw blade.
Using a saw without a riving knife will make one to experience a lot of kickbacks.
Ripping fence
A ripping fence is used to guide the timber being cut to run parallel at a set distance from the
blade.
A mitre and cross cutting guide has a bar that slides in a groove that runs along the left side of
the table top.
The guide can also be adjusted to any angle when making angled cuts like mitres.
Finger plate
The finger plate covers the gap through which the blade protrudes.
Packing
These are leather or fabrics that are used to cover the gap between the edges of the finger plate
and the blade.
Crown guard
The crown guard covers the saw blade in order to protect you from accidentally touching the
saw blade.
Nose guard
The nose guard covers the gap between the saw blade and the material being cut
The adjustment is guided measurements on the graduated scale found above the sliding bar
Uses
1. Cross cutting.
2. Cutting rnitres.
3. Cutting housings.
4. Cutting tenons.
5. Cutting notches.
When fitted with a rip saw blade, the circular saw can be used for the following:
1. Ripping which is also called flatting. The riving knife should be fitted when ripping
3. Rebating
4. Cutting grooves.
1. Wear safety glassses and safety shoes. Do not wear gloves because they may be caught by the
saw blade as it rotates.
2. Keep the area around the saw free from saw dust and off cuts. These may Cause accidents when
you step on them.
5. Use a push stick to rip work pieces which are 150mm wide or less.
7. You should not use a saw without a riving knife to protect yourself against kickbacks
10. You should never leave the machine running while attending to other tasks
In order to safely use a circular saw for ripping follow the following steps:
1. Adjust the fence to the required distance from the blade.The distance of the fence from the
blade should be equal to the required width of the work piece. The fence should be locked in
position on the sliding bar if you are to maintain uniform width of the work piece .The fence
should be set to cover just about half the diameter of the blade. If it extends beyond the blade,
the work piece will got caught between the fence and the blade. This will result in kick backs
2. Adjust the depth of the blade by cranking the blade adjusting wheel. The blade should protrudes
the surface being cut by between 6mm and 10mm.
6. Press the work piece on the table and push the work piece slowly towards the blade. Use a
push stick when the work piece approaches the blade. If you are ripping a long piece, have
someone to stand behind the blade to receive the board
To cut bevels and chamfers use the canting hand wheel to tilt the blade to the required angle
and follow the steps followed when ripping.
Cross cutting
1. Set the cross cutting guide perpendicular the sliding bar to ensure a square cut.
2. Remove the ripping fence or move it to a distance that will prevent interference with the
workpiece.
3. Adjust the blade to enable it to protrude about 6mm above the surface of the workpiece.
6. Hold the piece firmly against the cross cutting guide and cut the workpiece
7. When cutting several pieces to the same length, attach a wooden fence to the cross cutting
guide. Pin a stop block on this wooden fence at the required distance from the blade.
Cutting mitres
To cut mitres, adjust the mitre guide to 45° and follow the steps followed when cross cutting.
Surface planer
A surface planer is sometimes called a jointer. It the first machine that is used to dress timber.
Cutter block
Cutter blocks are cylindrical blocks of metal that are slotted along the length to hold cutters.
The cutter block can hold two or more blades depending on the design. Cutter blocks are
rotated by electric motor at high speeds.
Blades
Blades are also called ciutters.
These are made from high strength chrome carbon steel.
They are held in the cutter block in slots along the cutter block
Tables
A surface planer has two tables, a front table called the infeed table and a rear table called an
outfeed table.
Infeed table
The infeed table is the front table that holds the workpiece that is to be planed.
It is raised or lowered by the infeed table adjusting wheel to set the depth of the cutters.
Outfeed table
The outfeed table receives the stock that has passed over the cutters.
For general cutting, the outfeed table should be level with the top of the cutting circle of the
blade.
This wheel is located on the front of the plane below the infeed table.
It is used to raise or lower the infeed table in order to adjust the depth of the blades.
Fence
It can be set at 900 when planning a face edge or tilted to plane chamfers and bevels.
The fence can also be moved across the table when cutting rebates.
Bridge guard
This protects one from accidentally touching the blades while planing.
Uses
1. To plane the face side. The minimum length of the stock should be 300mm. The workpiece
should be about 50 mm longer than the distance between the infeed and outfeed table
2. To plane the face edge. When planing the face edge, the fence is set at 90° to the surface of the
infeed table
3. . Rebating.
4. Planing bevels or chamfers. When planning bevels or chamfers, the fence is tilted.
7. You should adjust your plane to take off thin shavings at each pass
9. Pay maximum attention to your work. Do not talk to your friend when using the machine.
10. . Plane your workpiece in the direction of the grain. Do not plane the wood against its grain.
12. You should never plane a workpiece that has nails, screws or any metal parts.
1. Use the infeed table adjusting wheel to adjust the depth of cut. The cutters should just protrude
by about 1.5mm to 2mm for general planing. Do not adjust your cutters to take off thick
shavings. This increases the chances of injury.
2. Check the outfeed table to see whethe rit is in line with the top of the cutting circle of the
blades. If the rear table is higher than this cutting line, the piece planed will have a taper along
its length. If the rear table is lower than the top of the cutting circle, the piece will be gouged out
as it leaves the
3. Check the fence and adjust it so that it does not interfere with the piece being planed.
5. Press the piece on the infeed table and push towards the cutters. Use a push block as you
approach the cutters.
6. If the piece that you intend to plane is warped, the concave side of the board should face down
rather than up.
The face edge is planed with the face side pressed against the fence.
1. Adjust the fence at 900 to the infeed table. Use a try square to check for squareness of the
fence.
3. Press the workpiece on its edge, firmly against the fence and push the stock towards the cutters.
3. Press the workpiece firmly against the fence and push the stock towards the Cutters.
Planing rebates
1. 1.Adjust the fence by moving it to the left to leave a gap on the cutters that is equal to the width
of the rebate.
The thicknesser
It is called a panel planer because it is capable of planing wide boards called panels.
The timber to be planed is inserted into the plane through the infeed table
This timber is planed and exits the plane through the outfeed table that is located at the back of
the planer.
Parts of a thicknesser
Infeed table
The infeed table is sometimes called the rise and fall table.
It is raised and lowered by the hand wheel to set the thickness to which the workpiece is to be
planed
When setting the thickness you will be guided by a graduated scale that is provided on the right
hand side of the body.
The thicknesser uses a cylindrical cutter block similar to the one used in surface planers.
This cutter block is slotted along its full length to hold the blades.
Infeed roller
Chip breaker
It is spring loaded.
The chip breaker presses the workpiece down onto the infeed table. It also breaks the chips
from the workpiece.
Pressure bar
It is used to press the workpiece onto the outfeed table as it leaves the cutters.
Anti-friction rollers
They are used to reduce friction on the workpiece as it slides along the tables.
Hand wheels
Some thicknessers use a pneumatic mechanisnm to raise or lower the infeed table.
Locking lever
Locking lever is used to lock the infeed table in place after adjusting it to the required thickness.
Uses
The thicknesser should only be used after dressing the face side and face edge on a surface
plane to obtain a flat surface
The reason for doing this is that the thicknesser depends on the quality of the opposite surface
to produce a relatively flat surface.
6. Do not use your hands to reach into the infeed or outfeed table.
7. You should not stand directly in front of the infeed table.Stand on the side of the machine.
10. If the workpiece jams in the machine. Stop the machine and lower the infeed table to remove
it.
1. The thicknesser is safer and easier to use than a surface plane. It requires only a few
adjustments before use. In order to safely use this machine, follow the steps below.
2. Use a scale provided on the front of the planer to adjust the infeed table to the required
thickness. Do not force the planer to plane a workpiece to the required thickness at once. Only
plane off about 3mm from the workpiece in each pass. If you try to plane off a thick shaving at
once, the planer will jam. You should therefore pass your workpiece several times through the
machine to plane to the required thickness.
6. Do not pull your work piece from the outfeed table to avoid snipes. A snipe is a cut that is
slightly deeper than the surface of the workpiece that occurs at the end of the workpiece that is
planed in a thicknesser.A snipe occurs when rollers pull the workpiece up against the cutters as
it leaves the machine table resulting in deeper cuts on the end of the workpiece.
Spindle moulder
It is a multi- purpose wood working machine that can perform many tasks it performs most of
the tasks done by a portable router. The profiles cut on a spindle moulder are however larger
than those produced on a portable router.
Base
The base of a spindle moulder is similar to the base of the circular saw.
Table
It has an opening of about 180mm in the middle where the spindle protrudes.
The table supports the infeed and outfeed fence as well as the hood guard
Spindle
It is a vertical shaft of diameter 30mm which protrudes above the table from the base.
it is made from high grade tool steel. The spindle is connected on its bottom to a stepped belt
pulley drive.
Cutter blocks
It holds the various cutters that are used on a spindle moulder.it is fixed to the upper part of the
spindles by collars and spindle nut.They are many different types of cutter block that can be
attached to the spindle moulder.The most common one includes the French head cutter block,
square cutter block and the white hille circular cutter block
Cutters
The cutters are fixed to the cutter blocks by means of spindle nuts,
When the cutter block is rotated by the spindle, the cutters cut into the wood to produce
preferred profiles.
Fence
It is made up of two parts, the infeed fence and the outfeed fence.
This fence can be moved backwards and forwards across the table to adjust the depth of the
cutters.
The fence is used to guide the workpiece when making straight cuts on the spindle moulder.
False fence
It is attached to the infeed fence and outfeed fence to close the gap between the two halves of
the fence where the cutter block is exposed.
The false fence hides the cutters. It exposes only a small part of the cutters.
This prevents the workpiece from getting into the gaps between the two fences.
Ring fence
A ring fence is a circular fence that is placed below or above the cutter block when moulding
curved work.
Hood guard
A hood guard is a cover that is placed top of the cutter block to conceal it.
Shaw guards
Shaw guards are spring loaded cramps that hold the workpiece as it is pushed through the
cutters.
The upper part of the shaw guard presses the workpiece down on the table.
Hand wheel
The hand wheel uses a rise and fall mechanism to raise or lower the spindle
Motor
The electric motor is used to transmit torque to the stepped pulley drive.
Uses
The spindle moulder is a versatile machine that can be used for various operations.
It can be used to cut various types of mouldings, cut raised panels, grooves, trenches, rebates,
comb joints and the tongue and groove joint.
4. Do not use a spindle moulder without the false fence.Doing so will cause your work piece to dip
into cutter block
5. All guards should be in place before using the machine
7. Use a push stick or mechanical feeding device to feed your work onto the machines.
4. Move the fence backwards or forwards across the table to set the depth of cut.
6. Close the gap between the infeed and outfeed table by a false fence.
10. Feed the work. Remember to use a push stick or mechanical feeder, to push your work past the
cutters.
4. Remove the straight fence and replace it with a ring fence. The ring fence can be placed below
or above the cutter block.
Pillar drill
A pillar drill is a versatile machine that can be used for several purposes.
Head
The head is the casing that is located at the top of the pillar drill.
Electric motor
Cone pulley drives are connected to the electric motor and the Spindle.
They transmit rotary motion from the electric motor to the spindle.
Spindle
A spindle is a shaft that is connected to one end of the cone pulley drive.
Chuck
Feed lever
The handles are turned up to raise the spindle from the table.
Depth stop
The depth stop is hole that is to be used to limit the depth of the drilled on the workpiece
Table
The table holds the workpiece during the drilling process.
Uses
2. Make sure the drill is tightened in the chuck before switching on the machine.
3. Remove the chuck key from the chuck after tightening. If you leave it on the chuck, it will fly off
when the machine is switched on.
1. Insert a drill of the correct size in the chuck. Tighten the chuck using chuck keys. Chuck keys
should be removed immediately after locking the chuck
5. Lower the chuck towards the workpiece to check whether the drill is reaching the workpiece.
6. Raise the chuck and Switch on the machine.Lower the chuck and drill the workpiece.
An electric bench grinder is an important machine that is used for reconditioning hand tool
blades.
Electric motor
Grinding wheels
The grinding wheels used on a bench grinder are called composition abrasive wheels.
These wheels are mounted on spindles that are rotated by the electric motor
Grinding wheel guards are used to cover the greater part of the grinding wheel.
Tool rest
The tool rest is used to support the tool being ground at a constant angle of about 25 0 when
grinding.
Eye shield
Water container
The water container stores water that is used to cool the blade when grinding.
Uses
2. Use a guard to protect yourself from flying off the grinding wheel
4. You should remove the tool from the grinding wheel before switching it off
Operation of a grinder
5. Support the tool on the tool rest and press it lightly on the grinding wheel.
Accessories needed
It is possible to make your own push stick and push block in the workshop.
Safety
Before planing the workpiece, first remember to revise the safety precautions on the use of the
surface planer.
1. Check the length of your piece to ensure that it is not less than 25Omm long and less than 9mm
thick
2. Adjust the depth of the cutters. The cutters should be adjusted to remove shavings that are not
more than 1.5mm thick.
Face side
1. To plane the face side, press the workpiece flat on the infeed table using both hands and push it
towards the cutters.
2. When part of the piece has passed over the cutters, press a push block behind the back end and
push the workpiece over the cutters. Press down the part that has passed the cutters on the rear
table using the left hand. If the surface plane is too big to allow you to reach over the rear table,
do this with someone else
Face edge
1. To plane the face edge, adjust the fence to allow only a small opening over the
cutters.Remember to lock the fence.
2. Lay the workpiece on its edge with the planed face side pressed against the fence.
3. Push the workpiece slowly towards the cutters to plane the face edge.
Accessories needed
Push stick.
1. Use the required width size to set the distance of the fence from the saw blade. Lock the fence in
place.
4. Press the workpiece against the fence and slowly push it towards the blade.
5. When the workpiece is about half way through the blade, use a push stick to push the piece past the
blade. If you are ripping a long piece, ask your friend to help you receive it at the back of the machine.
Cross cutting
Accessories needed
Mitre gauge
1. Remove the fence so that it does not interfere with your work
7. Push the mitre gauge towards the blade the blade to cut the pieces