C H ER RY H EA RT

B erti e’s Ju mpe r

S A N D R A PAU L
 WWW.CHERRYHEART.CO.UK

BERTIE’S JUMPER
Notes on a dog jumper… I’ve always wanted to make up a crocheted jumper for Bertie to wear and I finally
got around to it. Once I had something that fit him well and that he was happy to wear, I knew I wanted to
make more!

Skill Level Size

Intermediate Bertie’s Size! He’s a Miniature Dachshund
Intermediate and foundation stitches used.
Note form only - not suitable for beginners Gauge
17 sts x 10 rows - 10cm (4”) in treble crochet (US dc)
Materials
YARN THE YARN I USED…

Approx: 200 m / 219 yds of your choice of dk yarn. Stylecraft Bambino

Around 170 m / 196 yds in the main colour, plus 100% Premium Acrylic / 100g, 268m (293 yds)
smaller amounts in various colours for granny stripes 1 x Clotted Cream (7112)
and edging. 1 x Denim Dungarees (3943)
1 x Sage (7117)
1 x Soft Pink (7113)
HOOK

4mm (G), or size needed to match gauge Sirdar Snuggly Cashmere Merino Silk
75% Wool, 20% Silk, 5% Cashmere / 50g, 116m,
NOTIONS (127 yds)
Yarn needle 1 x Beanstalk (308)

Pattern Notes
When using this pattern, please be aware that there is no choice of sizes, no tutorials or any of the usual extras
and help that I would provide in one of my full patterns. Instead, these are just the basic, rough and untested
notes that I made for my own use and I’m just sharing them now as some of you requested them. :D

I also have no idea if this pattern will work for any other dog, I just made it to fit my Bertie! Maybe if you also
have a miniature dachshund of a similar size then it will work out right, but I’m sure it’s much more likely that
you’ll need to adapt this to suit your needs. Hopefully this will provide a starting point for your own
experiments if you are looking to keep your own dog cozy and warm.

WRITTEN DIRECTIONS

Please note that I haven’t specified a lot of information I that usually would in a normal pattern. For example,
it assumes you know to begin each treble (US dc) row with a 3 chain and that the 3ch counts as the first stitch.
Also, that you know how to crochet in granny stripes and how to make an increase and decrease and so on.

I worked the jumper from a row of foundation trebles, but you could just work from a chain if that’s easier. I
have included some information on how I made my foundation trebles and shell increases though, and also
included a few tutorial links which may be useful.

US TERMS
The pattern instructions and stitch definitions have been translated to US crochet terms.

© 2023 SANDRA PAUL 2 OF 7 BERTIE’S JUMPER

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G L O S S A RY
Terms
This pattern is written using UK crochet terms. (Translation into US terms given on page XX.)

Abbreviations
ch - chain RS - right side
beg - beginning sl st - slip stitch
CC - contrast colour sp - space
dc - double crochet (US sc - single) st(s) - stitch(es)
dec - decrease tog - together
dtr - double treble crochet (US tr - treble) tr - treble crochet (US dc - double)
FPtr - front post treble (US FPdc - FP double) tr2tog - treble crochet (US dc - double)
htr - half treble crochet (US hdc - half double) tr3tog - treble crochet (US dc - double)
inc - increase WS - wrong side
MC - main colour yo - wrap yarn over the hook

Special Stitches
shell
UK - 3tr worked in same st/sp | US - 3dc worked in same st/sp
Note: When working into a round of tr sts, skip 2 sts and work a shell into the every 3rd stitch. When working
into a round of shells, skip each shell and work in spaces between shells only.

inc shell - increase shell

UK - (2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp | US - (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp

FDtr - foundation treble | US - FDdc - foundation double

3ch [counts as 1tr], yo, insert hook into 1st ch, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull
through 2 loops) twice [makes 1FDtr], *yo and insert hook in 2 loops at base of previous FDtr, yo and pull
through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) twice [makes 1FDtr]. 3 sts made. Repeat from * as needed for
number of stitches required. Also see tutorial link.

FPtr - front post treble | US - FPdc - front post double

A rebel stitch made around the post of the stitch in the row below. See tutorial link.

Photo Tutorials
Foundation Treble - https://www.cherryheartcrochet.co.uk/2014/09/foundation-treble-crochet-ftc.html
Front Post Treble - https://www.cherryheartcrochet.co.uk/2014/03/front-post-crochet-fp.html
Crochet Stitch Tutorials - www.cherryheartcrochet.co.uk/p/stitch-directory.html
More help - www.cherryheartcrochet.co.uk

COPYRIGHT © 2023 SANDRA PAUL. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

This pattern is your individual copy and should not be shared. For personal and non-commercial use only.
To loan, copy, reproduce, redistribute, exchange or re-sell this pattern, in whole or in part, in any format, for any other
reason will constitute an infringement of copyright. You may sell items made using this pattern, see link below.
By downloading this pattern, you agree to the full terms of use: www.cherryheart.co.uk/p/copyright

© 2023 SANDRA PAUL 3 OF 7 BERTIE’S JUMPER

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PATTERN - UK TERMS
Body
Worked in the round from foundation treble stitch start.

With MC yarn and 4.0mm hook.

Round 1: FDtr 46, sl st in starting st to form a loop. 46 sts

Round 2: work tr stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 50 sts
Round 3: work tr stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 54 sts
Break yarn and join CC1.
Round 4: work a round of shells, two inc shells, spaced evenly. 20 shells
Break yarn and join CC2.
Round 5: work a round of shells, two inc shells, spaced evenly. 22 shells
Break yarn and join CC3.
Round 6: work round of shells. 22 shells
Break yarn.
Now divide for leg holes, by making a back section and belly strap separately.

BACK / SHOULDERS

Worked across one half, in rows from FS only. Rejoin yarn to right side for each row.

With seam at center back, join to space CC4 to right hand side.

Row 7: 10 shells, 1tr in next sp. 11 spaces worked, 11 spaces unworked.

Break yarn and join CC3 to first tr of 1st shell.
Row 8: 3ch, skip 2 tr, 10 shells.
Break yarn and join CC2 to first sp.
Row 9: 10 shells, 1tr in last st of last shell.
Break yarn and join CC1 to first tr of 1st shell.
Row 10: As Row 8.
Break yarn and join MC to first tr of 1st shell.
Row 11: 1tr in each st. 31 sts
Break yarn.

BELLY STRAP

Worked over a small section of the underside, in rows from FS only. Rejoin yarn to right side for each row.

Turn over so WS of back section is facing, skip 4 shells (3 spaces) and join CC4 yarn to 4th space.

Row 7: 4 shells, 1tr in next sp. 5 spaces worked, 3 spaces unworked

Break yarn and join CC3 to first tr of 1st shell.
Row 8: 3ch, skip 2 tr, 4 shells.
Break yarn and join CC2 to first sp.
Row 9: 4 shells, 1tr in last st of last shell.
Break yarn and join CC1 to first tr of 1st shell.
Row 10: As Row 8.

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Break yarn and join MC to first tr of 1st shell.

Row 11: 1tr in each st. 13 sts
Do NOT break yarn.
Now re-join with back to complete the leg holes and work the middle section.

MIDDLE

With MC yarn still attached to belly strap, begin working in the round again.

Round 12: 11ch, [counts as 1tr, 8ch], skip to back section, 1tr in each st across back, 8ch, skip to belly strap ,
1tr in st across belly strap, sl st into top of beg 3ch. 60 sts
Round 13: 1tr in each st around. 60 sts
Round 14: work tr stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 64 sts
Rounds 15 - 18: Work 4 rounds of straight tr. 64 sts
Do NOT break yarn.
Now start shaping back section and adding length.

BACK / LENGTH
The back section will now begin to curve away from the underside of the belly as length is added. To begin, a
small section of stitches on the underbelly will be left unworked. The unworked stitches should line up with the
belly strap as closely as possible. Make slip stitches if needed to get the yarn to the right place (roughly in line
with left side of belly strap). Or if necessary, break and re-join yarn.
Continuing in MC yarn, working back and forth in rows.

Row 19: 2ch, 1tr [tr2tog], 1tr in next 50 sts, tr2tog. 52 sts. 54 worked, leaves 10 stitches unworked.
Row 20: 2ch, 1tr [tr2tog], tr to last 2 sts, tr2tog. 50 sts.
Rows 21 - 27: Work 7 rows as Row 20. 36 sts.
Row 28 - 29: Work 2 rows of straight tr. 36 sts.
Row 30: 2ch, tr2tog [tr3tog], tr to last 3 sts, tr3tog. 32 sts.
Rows 31 - 33: Work 3 rows as Row 30. 18 sts.
Break yarn.

Edging
Worked in the round. To finish neck opening and around back edge, legs edges left unworked.

NECK EDGING

With neck (base of Round 1) facing up, join CC4 to bottom of a FDtr st.

Round 1: 1tr in each stitch around.

Round 2: (1htr, 1FPtr) around.
Break yarn.

BODY EDGING

With underside of belly facing up, join CC4 to any unworked stitch from Row 18.

Round 1: 1tr in each stitch around, making increases or decreases as needed to following shaping of body.
Round 2: (1htr, 1FPtr) around, making increases or decreased as needed with htr stitches only.
Break yarn.

© 2023 SANDRA PAUL 5 OF 7 BERTIE’S JUMPER

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PATTERN - US TERMS
Body
Worked in the round from foundation double stitch start.

With MC yarn and 4.0mm hook.

Round 1: FDdc 46, sl st in starting st to form a loop. 46 sts

Round 2: work dc stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 50 sts
Round 3: work dc stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 54 sts
Break yarn and join CC1.
Round 4: work a round of shells, two inc shells, spaced evenly. 20 shells
Break yarn and join CC2.
Round 5: work a round of shells, two inc shells, spaced evenly. 22 shells
Break yarn and join CC3.
Round 6: work round of shells. 22 shells
Break yarn.
Now divide for leg holes, by making a back section and belly strap separately.

BACK / SHOULDERS

Worked across one half, in rows from FS only. Rejoin yarn to right side for each row.

With seam at center back, join to space CC4 to right hand side.

Row 7: 10 shells, 1dc in next sp. 11 spaces worked, 11 spaces unworked.

Break yarn and join CC3 to first dc of 1st shell.
Row 8: 3ch, skip 2 dc, 10 shells.
Break yarn and join CC2 to first sp.
Row 9: 10 shells, 1dc in last st of last shell.
Break yarn and join CC1 to first dc of 1st shell.
Row 10: As Row 8.
Break yarn and join MC to first dc of 1st shell.
Row 11: 1dc in each st. 31 sts
Break yarn.

BELLY STRAP

Worked over a small section of the underside, in rows from FS only. Rejoin yarn to right side for each row.

Turn over so WS of back section is facing, skip 4 shells (3 spaces) and join CC4 yarn to 4th space.

Row 7: 4 shells, 1dc in next sp. 5 spaces worked, 3 spaces unworked

Break yarn and join CC3 to first dc of 1st shell.
Row 8: 3ch, skip 2 dc, 4 shells.
Break yarn and join CC2 to first sp.
Row 9: 4 shells, 1dc in last st of last shell.
Break yarn and join CC1 to first dc of 1st shell.
Row 10: As Row 8.

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Break yarn and join MC to first dc of 1st shell.

Row 11: 1dc in each st. 13 sts
Do NOT break yarn.
Now re-join with back to complete the leg holes and work the middle section.

MIDDLE

With MC yarn still attached to belly strap, begin working in the round again.

Round 12: 11ch, [counts as 1dc, 8ch], skip to back section, 1dc in each st across back, 8ch, skip to belly
stcap , 1dc in st across belly strap, sl st into top of beg 3ch. 60 sts
Round 13: 1dc in each st around. 60 sts
Round 14: work dc stitches around, inc by 4 evenly. 64 sts
Rounds 15 - 18: Work 4 rounds of straight dc. 64 sts
Do NOT break yarn.
Now start shaping back section and adding length.

BACK / LENGTH
The back section will now begin to curve away from the underside of the belly as length is added. To begin, a
small section of stitches on the underbelly will be left unworked. The unworked stitches should line up with the
belly strap as closely as possible. Make slip stitches if needed to get the yarn to the right place (roughly in line
with left side of belly strap). Or if necessary, break and re-join yarn.
Continuing in MC yarn, working back and forth in rows.

Row 19: 2ch, 1dc [dc2tog], 1dc in next 50 sts, dc2tog. 52 sts. 54 worked, leaves 10 stitches unworked.
Row 20: 2ch, 1dc [dc2tog], dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog. 50 sts.
Rows 21 - 27: Work 7 rows as Row 20. 36 sts.
Row 28 - 29: Work 2 rows of straight dc. 36 sts.
Row 30: 2ch, dc2tog [dc3tog], dc to last 3 sts, dc3tog. 32 sts.
Rows 31 - 33: Work 3 rows as Row 30. 18 sts.
Break yarn.

Edging
Worked in the round. To finish neck opening and around back edge, legs edges left unworked.

NECK EDGING

With neck (base of Round 1) facing up, join CC4 to bottom of a FDdc st.

Round 1: 1dc in each stitch around.

Round 2: (1hdc, 1FPdc) around.
Break yarn.

BODY EDGING

With underside of belly facing up, join CC4 to any unworked stitch from Row 18.

Round 1: 1dc in each stitch around, making increases or decreases as needed to following shaping of body.
Round 2: (1hdc, 1FPdc) around, making increases or decreased as needed with hdc stitches only.
Break yarn.

© 2023 SANDRA PAUL 7 OF 7 BERTIE’S JUMPER