By Jashan Sidhu Step 1 • I made sure I had enough wood for my piece when I originally received it because I intended to create. Step 2
• Using the plainer, I created my piece in
Paraland. I took care to wear goggles and ear protection. After inserting the wood into the plater and adjusting the wheel until it gripped the wood, I switched the machine on and forced the piece of wood through. I took care not to stare into the machine itself in case one of the parts flew out and struck me. Nor did I stick my fingers into the device. After that, it moved to the opposite side, picked up the piece, and continued turning the handle quarter turns until the piece was precisely parallel. Step 3
• Using a mitre saw, I cut my piece to the
dimensions I determined for the box's walls. I protected my hearing and eyes with goggles. To get the ideal cut, I used the stop block by using a ruler to measure out the size I needed and lined it up with the blade and stop block. After that, I climbed the stop block and carefully placed my piece up against it so that my measurement wouldn't be ruined. After flipping the lever that controls whether it moves forward or backward, I was able to firmly hold onto my piece.After that, I lowered the saw, cut the piece, and didn't raise it again until it had completely stopped. I got all my pieces cut by Ithen. Step 4
• I formed my dado lines by pressing
my parts up against a level surface. To determine where to cut, I measure the inside and draw a straight line across the middle of the piece. Step 5
• To create the indentations where the box
components will fit, I utilized the dado. I protected my hearing and eyes with safety eyewear. To make sure I cut where I needed to, I adjusted both my height and the little barrier. I then rolled up my sleeves to prevent them from catching and severing my parts. To make sure I got a nice cut, I went over it a few times. Step 6
• I use the mitre saw to cut my base.I
protected my hearing and eyes with goggles. Utilizing the stop block, I determined the size To achieve an exact cut, align the ruler with the blade and stop block. After that, I climbed the stop block and carefully placed my piece against it, being careful not to knock it too hard so as to not skew my measurement. Step 7
• Using a table saw, I cut every
component to fit the location of my base. After only cutting once or twice, I checked that my base would fit into the piece by adjusting the fence, and then I cut every piece. I put on hearing and eye protection. I used a push stick to push it through and a magnet to hold the parts in place. Step 8 • I utilized the table saw to continuously modify the quantity that gets cut after seeing that my base wasn't cut perfectly, making sure the base matched my box. Step 9 • I cut the piece I needed for my lid on a table saw. I trimmed the lid to the measurement I had and removed the rounded edges. In order to keep my hand away from the blade, I used the push stick. I pulled up my sleeves and used eye and ear protection. Step 10
• I used the mitresaw to cut my lid.I used
hearing and eye protection. Using the stop block, I calculated the size.To achieve an exact cut, align the ruler with the blade and stop block. After it had clamped the stop block, I placed my item up against it, being careful not to strike it too hard so as to skew my measurement. Step 11
• I used the tablesaw to cut the
border pieces for my lid.I put on hearing and eye protection. I pushed it through with a push stick after using a magnet to keep the parts in place. Step 12
• In order for the lid and border to
glue together effectively, I made sure that there was a squeeze out. I then secured the parts in place using clamps. To prevent glue from getting on the clamps, I placed paper towels underneath the board. Step 13 • I smoothed the lid and removed any flaws with the 60 grit palm sander. I wore eye and hearing protection. To prevent the sander from working, I took care not to round the corners and not to apply too much pressure. Step 14 • I used my fingers to apply adhesive to the wood pieces' edges. In order to prevent the glue from leaking onto the front or back of the box, I carefully taped the edges of the components. After that, I assembled the parts using my foundation and fastened the box around the edges and centre.The Box Was Glued Together Step 15
• To smooth out my box and remove any
glue residue from the glueing procedure, I utilized a belt disc sander. I had eye and hearing protection on. In addition to moving the box around to prevent burning, I took careful to watch over what I was sanding. Step 16
This was my completed box,
unaltered by laser work. Step 17
• In order to better grasp the laser and how to
utilize it, I first viewed all of the operating instructions videos. After that, I located a photo I wanted to utilize and added it to the USBVI photo book. I altered the photo to make it fit the laser after transferring it to the laptop. Because that was the height that fit on my lid, I made it eight inches. Step 18
• After tracing the image and ensuring that it
fits well on my lid, I moved it into the laser machine. then marked the middle of my lid by using a ruler and going corner to corner and made a Xin the middle on a piece of tape so I know where the centre of my pieceisand I can direct the laser to start there.After there. Afterssed the frame button, which displayed the location of the photo on the box. • This is the box's final result after the laser and all other finishing touches were applied.