(eBook PDF) Essentials of

Oceanography 11th Edition by Alan P.

Trujillo
Visit to download the full and correct content document:
https://ebooksecure.com/download/ebook-pdf-essentials-of-oceanography-11th-editio
n-by-alan-p-trujillo/
Brief Contents
Preface xii

Introduction xxvii

1 Introduction to Planet “Earth” 3

2 Plate Tectonics and the Ocean Floor 35

3 Marine Provinces 75

4 Marine Sediments 97

5 Water and Seawater 129

6 Air–Sea Interaction 163

7 Ocean Circulation 197

8 Waves and Water Dynamics 235

9 Tides 267

10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes 291

11 The Coastal Ocean 319

12 Marine Life and the Marine Environment 359

13 Biological Productivity and Energy Transfer 387

14 Animals of the Pelagic Environment 425

15 Animals of the Benthic Environment 457

16 The Oceans and Climate Change 491

Afterword 526

Appendix I Metric and English Units Compared 530

Appendix II Geographic Locations 534
Appendix III Latitude and Longitude on Earth 536
Appendix IV A Chemical Background: Why Water Has 2 H’s and 1 O 539
Appendix V Careers in Oceanography 543

Glossary 547

Credits and Acknowledgements 565

Index 569

v
Contents
Preface xii
To the Student xii
To the Instructor xii
What’s New in This Edition? xiii
For the Student xiv
For the Instructor xv
Acknowledgments xv

Introduction xxvii

I.1 What Is Oceanography? xxvii

I.2 How Are Earth’s Oceans Unique? xxviii
I.3 What Is Rational Use Of Technology? xxix

1 Introduction to Planet
“Earth” 3
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 3

1.1 How Many Oceans Exist on Earth? 4

The Four Principal Oceans, Plus One 4 • Oceans versus Seas:
What Are the Seven Seas? 5
1.2 How Was Early Exploration Of the Oceans Achieved? 7
Early History 7
Diving Deeper 1.1 Historical Feature How Do Sailors Know Where
They Are At Sea?: From Stick Charts to Satellites 8
The Middle Ages 10 • The Age Of Discovery in Europe 11 • The
Beginning Of Voyaging for Science 12 • History Of Oceanography . . .
To Be Continued 13
1.3 What Is the Nature Of Scientific Inquiry? 13
Observations 14 • Hypothesis 14 • Testing 14 • Theory 15 •
Theories and the Truth 15
1.4 How Were Earth and the Solar System Formed? 16
The Nebular Hypothesis 16 • Protoearth 17 • Density and Density
Stratification 18 • Earth’s Internal Structure 19
1.5 How Were Earth’s Atmosphere and Oceans
Formed? 22
Origin Of Earth’s Atmosphere 22 • Origin Of Earth’s Oceans 22
1.6 Did Life Begin in the Oceans? 23
The Importance Of Oxygen to Life 23 • Stanley Miller’s
Experiment 24 • Evolution and Natural Selection 25 •
Plants and Animals Evolve 25
Diving Deeper 1.2 Historical Feature The Voyage Of
HMS Beagle: How It Shaped Charles Darwin’s Thinking About the
Theory Of Evolution 28
1.7 How Old Is Earth? 29
Radiometric Age Dating 29 • The Geologic Time Scale 29
Essential Concepts Review 31
2 Plate Tectonics and the Ocean
Floor 35
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 35
2.1 What Evidence Supports Continental Drift? 36
Fit Of the Continents 36 • Matching Sequences Of Rocks and Mountain
Chains 36 • Glacial Ages and Other Climate Evidence 37 • Distribution
of Organisms 37 • Objections to the Continental Drift Model 39
2.2 What Evidence Supports Plate Tectonics? 40
Earth’s Magnetic Field and Paleomagnetism 40
Diving Deeper 2.1 Research Methods in Oceanography Do Sea
Turtles (and Other Animals) Use Earth’s Magnetic Field for Navigation? 43
Sea Floor Spreading and Features Of the Ocean Basins 44 • Other
Evidence from the Ocean Basins 46 • The Acceptance Of a Theory 48
2.3 What Features Occur at Plate Boundaries? 50
Divergent Boundary Features 51 • Convergent Boundary
Features 55 • Transform Boundary Features 59
2.4 Testing the Model: What Are Some Applications Of Plate
Tectonics? 60
Hotspots and Mantle Plumes 60 • Seamounts and Tablemounts 63
• Coral Reef Development 63 • Detecting Plate Motion with
Satellites 65
2.5 How Has Earth Changed in the Past, and How Will it Look in
the Future? 66
The Past: Paleogeography 66 • The Future: Some Bold Predictions 67
2.6 How Can Plate Tectonics Be Used As A Working Model? 68
Diving Deeper 2.2 Historical Feature Ophiolites: A Gift From the
Sea Floor to the Bronze Age 70
Essential Concepts Review 72

vi

3 Marine Provinces
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 75
75
3.1 What Techniques Are Used to Determine Ocean
Bathymetry? 75
Soundings 75 • Echo Soundings 76 • Using Satellites to Map
Ocean Properties from Space 78 • Seismic Reflection Profiles 79
3.2 What Features Exist on Continental Margins? 80
Passive versus Active Continental Margins 80 • Continental
Shelf 81 • Continental Slope 82 • Submarine Canyons and
Turbidity Currents 82 • Continental Rise 84
3.3 What Features Exist in the Deep-Ocean Basins? 85
Abyssal Plains 85 • Volcanic Peaks Of the Abyssal Plains 86 •
Ocean Trenches and Volcanic Arcs 86
3.4 What Features Exist Along the Mid-Ocean Ridge? 88
Volcanic Features 88
Diving Deeper 3.1 Research Methods in Oceanography Earth’s
Hypsographic Curve: Nearly Everything You Need to Know About Earth’s
Oceans and Landmasses in One Graph 89
Hydrothermal Vents 90 • Fracture Zones and Transform Faults 91
Diving Deeper 3.2 Research Methods in Oceanography Now
You See it, Now You Don’t: Recovering Oceanographic Equipment Stuck
in Lava 93
Oceanic Islands 94
Essential Concepts Review 94
Contents vii
4 Marine Sediments
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 97
97
4.1 How Are Marine Sediments Collected, and What Historical
Events Do they Reveal? 98
Collecting Marine Sediments 99 • Environmental Conditions
Revealed by Marine Sediments 100 • Paleoceanography 100
4.2 What Are the Characteristics Of Lithogenous Sediment? 101
Origin Of Lithogenous Sediment 101 • Composition Of
Lithogenous Sediment 103 • Sediment Texture 103 • Distribution
Of Lithogenous Sediment 104
4.3 What Are the Characteristics Of Biogenous Sediment? 106
Origin Of Biogenous Sediment 106 • Composition Of Biogenous
Sediment 107
Diving Deeper 4.1 Oceans and People Diatoms: The Most Important
Things You Have (Probably) Never Heard Of 108
Distribution Of Biogenous Sediment 110
4.4 What Are the Characteristics Of Hydrogenous Sediment? 114
Origin Of Hydrogenous Sediment 114 • Composition and
Distribution Of Hydrogenous Sediment 115
4.5 What Are the Characteristics Of Cosmogenous Sediment? 117
Origin, Composition, and Distribution Of Cosmogenous
Sediment 117
4.6 How Are Pelagic and Neritic Deposits Distributed? 118
Mixtures Of Marine Sediment 118 • Neritic Deposits 119 • Pelagic
Deposits 119 • How Sea Floor Sediments Represent Surface
Conditions 120 • Worldwide Thickness Of Marine Sediments 121
4.7 What Resources Do Marine Sediments Provide? 122
Energy Resources 122 • Other Resources 123
Essential Concepts Review 126
5 Water and Seawater
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 129
129
5.1 Why Does Water Have Such Unusual Chemical Properties? 129
Atomic Structure 129 • The Water Molecule 130
5.2 What Other Important Properties Does Water Possess? 132
Water’s Thermal Properties 132 • Water Density 137
5.3 How Salty Is Seawater? 139
Salinity 139 • Determining Salinity 140
Diving Deeper 5.1 Oceans and People How to Avoid Goiters 141
Comparing Pure Water and Seawater 142
5.4 Why Does Seawater Salinity Vary? 143
Salinity Variations 143 • Processes Affecting Seawater Salinity 144
• Dissolved Components Added to and Removed from
Seawater 146
5.5 Is Seawater Acidic or Basic? 148
The pH Scale 148 • The Carbonate Buffering System 149
5.6 How Does Seawater Salinity Vary at the Surface and With
Depth? 151
Surface Salinity Variation 151 • Salinity Variation with Depth 152
• Halocline 153
 6.6 How Do Sea Ice and Icebergs Form? 189
Formation Of Sea Ice 189 • Formation Of Icebergs 190
6.7 Can Power from Wind Be Harnessed as a Source Of Energy? 192
Essential Concepts Review 193

7 Ocean Circulation
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 197
197

7.1 How Are Ocean Currents Measured? 197

Diving Deeper 7.1 Oceans and People Running Shoes as Drift
Meters: Just Do It 199
5.7 How Does Seawater Density Vary With Depth? 153
Factors Affecting Seawater Density 153 • Temperature and Density
Variation with Depth 154 • Thermocline and Pycnocline 155
5.8 What Methods Are Used to Desalinate Seawater? 156
Distillation 157 • Membrane Processes 157 • Other Methods Of
Desalination 158
Essential Concepts Review 159
Diving Deeper 7.2 Historical Feature  Benjamin Franklin: The
World’s Most Famous Physical Oceanographer 216
6 Air–Sea Interaction
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 163
163
6.1 What Causes Variations in Solar Radiation on Earth? 164
What Causes Earth’s Seasons? 164 • How Latitude Affects the
Distribution Of Solar Radiation 165 • Oceanic Heat Flow 166
6.2 What Physical Properties Does the Atmosphere
Possess? 167
Composition Of the Atmosphere 167 • Temperature Variation in
the Atmosphere 167 • Density Variation in the Atmosphere 168
• Atmospheric Water Vapor Content 168 • Atmospheric
Pressure 168 • Movement Of the Atmosphere 169 • An Example:
A Nonspinning Earth 169
6.3 How Does the Coriolis Effect Influence Moving
Objects? 170
Example 1: Perspectives and Frames Of Reference on a Merry-Go-
Round 170 • Example 2: A Tale Of Two Missiles 171 • Changes in
the Coriolis Effect with Latitude 172
6.4 What Global Atmospheric Circulation Patterns Exist? 173
Circulation Cells 173 • Pressure 173 • Wind Belts 174 •
Boundaries 175 • Circulation Cells: Idealized or Real? 176
6.5 What Weather and Climate Patterns Occur in the Oceans? 177
Weather versus Climate 177 • Winds 177
Diving Deeper 6.1 Historical Feature Why Christopher Columbus
Never Set Foot on North America 178
Storms and Fronts 179 • Tropical Cyclones (Hurricanes) 179 • The
Ocean’s Climate Patterns 187
Surface Current Measurement 198
Deep Current Measurement 200
7.2 How Are Ocean Surface Currents Organized? 201
Origin Of Surface Currents 201 • Main Components Of Ocean
Surface Circulation 202 • Other Factors Affecting Ocean Surface
Circulation 204 • Ocean Currents and Climate 208
7.3 What Causes Upwelling and Downwelling? 210
Diverging Surface Water 210 • Converging Surface Water 210
• Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling 210 • Other Causes Of
Upwelling 211
7.4 What Are The Main Surface Circulation Patterns in Each Ocean
Basin? 212
Antarctic Circulation 212 • Atlantic Ocean Circulation 213
Indian Ocean Circulation 217 • Pacific Ocean Circulation 219
7.5 What Deep-Ocean Currents Exist? 226
Origin Of Thermohaline Circulation 226 • Sources Of Deep
Water 226 • Worldwide Deep-Water Circulation 227
7.6 Can Power from Currents Be Harnessed as A Source Of Energy? 229
Essential Concepts Review 230
8 Waves and Water Dynamics
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 235
235
8.1 How Are Waves Generated, and How Do They
Move? 235
Disturbances Generate Ocean Waves 235 • Wave Movement 236
8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Possess? 238
Wave Terminology 238 • Circular Orbital Motion 238 • Deep-
Water Waves 240 • Shallow-Water Waves 241 • Transitional
Waves 241
8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop? 242
Wave Development 242 • Interference Patterns 246 • Rogue
Waves 247
8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone? 248
Physical Changes as Waves Approach Shore 248 • Breakers and
Surfing 249 • Wave Refraction 250 • Wave Reflection 252
8.5 How Are Tsunami Created? 253
Coastal Effects 255 • Some Examples Of Historic and Recent
Tsunami 255
 Contents ix

9.6 Can Tidal Power Be Harnessed as a Source Of Energy? 285

Tidal Power Plants 286
Essential Concepts Review 288

10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline

Processes 291
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 291

10.1 How Are Coastal Regions Defined? 291

Beach Terminology 291 • Beach Composition 292
10.2 How Does Sand Move on the Beach? 293
Movement Perpendicular to the Shoreline 293 • Movement Parallel
to the Shoreline 293
10.3 What Features Exist Along Erosional and Depositional Shores? 295
Features Of Erosional Shores 295
Diving Deeper 10.1 Oceans and People Warning: Rip Currents . . . Do
You Know What to Do? 297
Features Of Depositional Shores 297
10.4 How Do Changes in Sea Level Produce Emerging and
Submerging Shorelines? 304
Features Of Emerging Shorelines 304 • Features Of Submerging
Shorelines 304 • Changes in Sea Level 304
10.5 What Characteristics Do U.S. Coasts Exhibit? 307
The Atlantic Coast 307 • The Gulf Coast 309 • The Pacific Coast 309
Diving Deeper 8.1 Oceans and People Waves Of Destruction: The
2011 Japanese Tsunami 259 10.6 How Does Hard Stabilization Affect Coastlines? 310
Groins and Groin Fields 310 • Jetties 312 • Breakwaters 312 •
Tsunami Warning System 260
Seawalls 313 • Alternatives to Hard Stabilization 314
8.6 Can Power from Waves Be Harnessed as a Source Of Energy? 261
Essential Concepts Review 316
Wave Power Plants and Wave Farms 261 • Global Coastal Wave
Energy Resources 263
Essential Concepts Review 264
11 The Coastal Ocean
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 319
319

9 Tides 267 11.1 What Laws Govern Ocean Ownership? 320

E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 267
9.1 What Causes Ocean Tides? 267
Tide-Generating Forces 267 • Tidal Bulges: The Moon’s
Effect 270 • Tidal Bulges: The Sun’s Effect 271 • Earth’s Rotation
and the Tides 272
9.2 How Do Tides Vary During a Monthly Tidal Cycle? 273
The Monthly Tidal Cycle 273 • Complicating Factors 274 •
Idealized Tide Prediction 276
9.3 What Do Tides Look Like in the Ocean? 277
Amphidromic Points and Cotidal Lines 277 • Effect Of the
Continents 277 • Other Considerations 278
9.4 What Types Of Tidal Patterns Exist? 279
Diurnal Tidal Pattern 279 • Semidiurnal Tidal Pattern 280 • Mixed
Tidal Pattern 280
9.5 What Tidal Phenomena Occur in Coastal Regions? 280
Diving Deeper 9.1 Oceans and People Tidal Bores: Boring Waves
These Are Not! 281
An Example of Tidal Extremes: The Bay of Fundy 282 • Coastal
Tidal Currents 282 • Whirlpools: Fact or Fiction? 283 • Grunion:
Doing What Comes Naturally on the Beach 283
Mare Liberum and the Territorial Sea 324 • Law Of the Sea 320
11.2 What Characteristics Do Coastal Waters Exhibit? 322
Salinity 323 • Temperature 323 • Coastal Geostrophic
Currents 324
11.3 What Types Of Coastal Waters Exist? 325
Estuaries 325 • Lagoons 329 • Marginal Seas 330
11.4 What Issues Face Coastal Wetlands? 332
Types Of Coastal Wetlands 332 • Characteristics Of Coastal
Wetlands 334 • Serious Loss Of Valuable Wetlands 334
11.5 What Is Pollution? 335
Marine Pollution: A Definition 335 • Environmental Bioassay 336
• The Issue Of Waste Disposal in the Ocean 336
11.6 What Are the Main Types Of Marine Pollution? 337
Petroleum 337
Diving Deeper 11.1 Focus on the Environment The 2010 Gulf Of
Mexico Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill 340
Sewage Sludge 344 • DDT and PCBs 345 • Mercury and Minamata
Disease 346 • Nonpoint Source Pollution and Trash 349 •
Biological Pollution: Non-Native Species 353
Essential Concepts Review 354
x Contents
12
Marine Life and the Marine
Environment 359
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 359
12.1 What Are Living Things, and How Are They Classified? 359
A Working Definition Of Life 359 • The Three Domains Of
Life 360 • The Five Kingdoms Of Organisms 361 • Linnaeus and
Taxonomic Classification 362
12.2 How Are Marine Organisms Classified? 363
Plankton (Drifters) 364 • Nekton (Swimmers) 365 • Benthos
(Bottom Dwellers) 366
12.3 How Many Marine Species Exist? 367
Why Are There So Few Marine Species? 368 • Species in Pelagic
and Benthic Environments 368
12.4 How Are Marine Organisms Adapted for the Physical
Conditions Of the Ocean? 369
Need for Physical Support 369 • Water’s Viscosity 370 •
Temperature 371 • Salinity 373 • Dissolved Gases 375 • Water’s
High Transparency 376 • Pressure 378
Diving Deeper 12.1 Historical Feature Diving into the Marine
Environment 379
12.5 What Are the Main Divisions Of the Marine Environment? 379
Pelagic (Open Sea) Environment 380 • Benthic (Sea Bottom)
Environment 382
Essential Concepts Review 384
13
Biological Productivity and
Energy Transfer 387
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 387
13.1 What Is Primary Productivity? 387
Measurement Of Primary Productivity 388 • Factors Affecting
Primary Productivity 388 • Light Transmission in Ocean Water 390
• Why Are the Margins Of the Oceans So Rich in Life? 392
13.2 What Kinds Of Photosynthetic Marine Organisms Exist? 395
Seed-Bearing Plants (Anthophyta) 395 • Macroscopic
(Large) Algae 395 • Microscopic (Small) Algae 397 • Ocean
Eutrophication and Dead Zones 400 • Photosynthetic Bacteria 401
13.3 How Does Regional Primary Productivity Vary? 403
Productivity in Polar (High Latitude) Oceans 404 • Productivity in
Tropical (Low-Latitude) Oceans 405 • Productivity in Middle Latitude
(Temperate) Oceans 405 • Comparing Regional Productivity 407
13.4 How Are Energy and Nutrients Passed Along in Marine
Ecosystems? 407
Flow Of Energy in Marine Ecosystems 408 • Flow Of Nutrients in
Marine Ecosystems 408 • Oceanic Feeding Relationships 409
13.5 What Issues Affect Marine Fisheries? 413
Marine Ecosystems and Fisheries 413 • Overfishing 413
Diving Deeper 13.1 Focus on the Environment Fishing Down the
Food Web: Seeing Is Believing 415
Incidental Catch 416 • Fisheries Management 417 • Seafood
Choices 420
Essential Concepts Review 421
14
Animals of the Pelagic
Environment 425
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 425
14.1 How Are Marine Organisms Able to Stay Above the Ocean
Floor? 425
Use Of Gas Containers 425 • Ability to Float 426 • Ability to
Swim 427 • The Diversity Of Planktonic Animals 427
14.2 What Adaptations Do Pelagic Organisms Possess for Seeking
Prey? 432
Mobility: Lungers versus Cruisers 432 • Swimming Speed 432
Diving Deeper 14.1 Oceans and People Some Myths (and Facts)
About Sharks 433
Cold-Blooded versus Warm-Blooded Organisms 434 • Adaptations
Of Deep-Water Nekton 434
14.3 What Adaptations Do Pelagic Organisms Possess to Avoid
Being Prey? 436
Schooling 436 • Symbiosis 437 • Other Adaptations 437
14.4 What Characteristics Do Marine Mammals Possess? 438
Mammalian Characteristics 439 • Order Carnivora 440 • Order
Sirenia 441 • Order Cetacea 444
14.5 An Example Of Migration: Why Do Gray Whales Migrate? 451
Migration Route 451 • Reasons for Migration 451 • Timing Of
Migration 452 • Are Gray Whales an Endangered Species? 452 •
Whaling and the International Whaling Commission 453
Essential Concepts Review 454

15
Animals Of the Benthic
Environment 457
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 457
15.1 What Communities Exist along Rocky Shores? 457
Intertidal Zonation 458 • The Spray (Supratidal) Zone: Organisms
and Their Adaptations 459 • The High Tide Zone: Organisms and
Their Adaptations 462 • The Middle Tide Zone: Organisms and
Their Adaptations 462 • The Low Tide Zone: Organisms and Their
Adaptations 464
15.2 What Communities Exist along Sediment-Covered Shores? 465
Physical Environment Of the Sediment 465 • Intertidal Zonation 465
• Sandy Beaches: Organisms and Their Adaptations 466 • Mud Flats:
Organisms and Their Adaptations 468
15.3 What Communities Exist on the Shallow Offshore Ocean
Floor? 468
Rocky Bottoms (Subtidal): Organisms and Their Adaptations 468 •
Coral Reefs: Organisms and Their Adaptations 471
15.4 What Communities Exist on the Deep-Ocean Floor? 477
The Physical Environment 478 • Food Sources and Species
Diversity 478
Diving Deeper 15.1 Research Methods in Oceanography How
Long Would Your Remains Remain on the Sea Floor? 479
Deep-Sea Hydrothermal Vent Biocommunities: Organisms and
Their Adaptations 479 • Low-Temperature Seep Biocommunities:
Organisms and Their Adaptations 484 • The Deep Biosphere: A
New Frontier 486
Essential Concepts Review 487
Contents xi
16 The Oceans and Climate Change
E sse n t i a l C o n cepts 491
491
16.1 What Comprises Earth’s Climate System? 491
16.2 Earth’s Recent Climate Change: Is It Natural or Caused by
Human Influence? 493
Determining Earth’s Past Climate: Proxy Data and
Paleoclimatology 494 • Natural Causes Of Climate
Change 494 • The IPCC: Documenting Human-Caused Climate
Change 498
16.3 What Causes the Atmosphere’s Greenhouse
Effect? 500
Earth’s Heat Budget and Changes in Wavelength 501 • Which
Gases Contribute to the Greenhouse Effect? 501 • What
Documented Changes Are Occurring Because Of Global
Warming? 505
16.4 What Changes Are Occurring in the Oceans as a Result Of
Global Warming? 507
Increasing Ocean Temperatures 507
Diving Deeper 16.1 Focus on the Environment The Atoc
Experiment: SOFAR So Good? 508
Increasing Hurricane Activity 509 • Changes in Deep-Water
Circulation 509 • Melting Of Polar Ice 510 • Recent Increase in
Ocean Acidity 512 • Rising Sea Level 515 • Other Predicted and
Observed Changes 516
16.5 What Should Be Done to Reduce Greenhouse
Gases? 518
The Ocean’s Role in Reducing Global Warming 518 • Possibilities
for Reducing Greenhouse Gases 520 • The Kyoto Protocol:
Limiting Greenhouse Gas Emissions 521
Essential Concepts Review 523
Afterword 526
What Are Marine Protected Areas? 527
What Can I Do? 528
Diving Deeper AFT.1 Focus on the Environment Ten Simple
Things You Can Do to Help Prevent Marine Pollution 529
Appendix I Metric and English Units Compared 530
Appendix II Geographic Locations 534
Appendix III Latitude and Longitude on Earth 536
Appendix IV A Chemical Background: Why Water Has 2 H’s
and 1 O  539
Appendix V Careers in Oceanography 543
Diving Deeper A5.1 Oceans and People  Report from a
Student/Oceanographer 545
Glossary 547
Credits and Acknowledgements 565
Index 569
Preface
“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of
wonder forever.”
—Jacques-Yves Cousteau,
oceanographer, underwater videographer,
and explorer (circa 1963)
To the Student
Welcome! You’re about to embark on a journey that is far from ordi-
nary. Over the course of this term, you will discover the central role
the oceans play in the vast global system of which you are a part.
This book’s content was carefully developed to provide a founda-
tion in science by examining the vast body of oceanic knowledge. This
knowledge includes information from a variety of scientific disci-
plines—geology, chemistry, physics, and biology—as they relate to the
oceans. However, no formal background in any of these disciplines is
required to successfully master the subject matter contained within
this book. Our desire is to have you take away from your oceanogra-
phy course much more than just a collection of facts. Instead, we want
you to develop a fundamental understanding of how the oceans work
and why the oceans behave the way that they do.
This book is intended to help you in your quest to know more
about the oceans. Taken as a whole, the components of the ocean—
its sea floor, chemical constituents, physical components, and life-
forms—comprise one of Earth’s largest interacting, interrelated, and
interdependent systems. Because human activities impact Earth sys-
tems, it is important to understand not only how the oceans operate
but also how the oceans interact with Earth’s other systems (such as
its atmosphere, biosphere, and hydrosphere) as part of a larger pic-
ture. Thus, this book uses a systems approach to highlight the inter-
disciplinary relationships among oceanographic phenomena and how
those phenomena affect other Earth systems.
To that end—and to help you make the most of your study time—
we focused the presentation in this book by organizing the material
around three essential components:
1. Concepts: General ideas derived or inferred from specific in-
stances or occurrences (for instance, the concept of density can be
used to explain why the oceans are layered)
2. Processes: Actions or occurrences that bring about a result (for
instance, the process of waves breaking at an angle to the shore re-
sults in the movement of sediment along the shoreline)
3. Principles: Rules or laws concerning the functioning of natural
phenomena or mechanical processes (for instance, the principle of
sea floor spreading suggests that the geographic positions of the
continents have changed through time)
Interwoven within these concepts, processes, and principles are
hundreds of photographs, illustrations, real-world examples, and ap-
plications that make the material relevant and accessible (and maybe
sometimes even entertaining) by bringing science to life.
xii
Ultimately, it is our hope that by understanding how the
oceans work, you will develop a new awareness and appreciation
of all aspects of the marine environment and its role in Earth sys-
tems. To this end, the book has been written for you, the student of
the oceans. So enjoy and immerse yourself! You’re in for an excit-
ing ride.
Al Trujillo
Harold Thurman
To the Instructor
This eleventh edition of Essentials of Oceanography is designed
to accompany an introductory college-level course in ocean-
ography taught to students who have no formal background in
mathematics or science. As in previous editions, the goal of this
edition of the textbook is to clearly present the relationships of
scientific principles to ocean phenomena in an engaging and
meaningful way.
This edition has greatly benefited from being thoroughly re-
viewed by hundreds of students who made numerous suggestions
for improvement. Comments by former students about the book
include, “I have really enjoyed the oceanography book we’ve used
this semester. It had just the right mix of graphics, text, and user-
friendliness that really held my interest.” and “What I really liked
about the book is that it’s a welcoming textbook—open and airy. You
could almost read it at bedtime like a story because of all the inter-
esting pictures.”
This edition has been reviewed in detail by a host of instructors
from leading institutions across the country. One reviewer of the tenth
edition described the text as follows: “Use this text. It is engaging and
thoughtful. It is current and useful. It challenges the students to reach,
yet it is thorough and clear in the execution of the text. The pictures tell
the story and the diagrams are understandable. It is student-friendly
and it is instructor-friendly. This text does fit the bill for teaching and
learning oceanography.”
In 2012, the tenth edition of Essentials of Oceanography received
a Textbook Excellence Award called a “Texty” from the Text and
Academic Authors Association (TAA). The Texty award recognizes
written works for their excellence in the areas of content, presentation,
appeal, and teachability. The publisher, Pearson Education, nomi-
nated the book for the award, and the textbook was critically reviewed
by a panel of expert judges.
The 16-chapter format of this textbook is designed for easy cover-
age of the material in a 15- or 16-week semester. For courses taught on
a 10-week quarter system, instructors may need to select those chap-
ters that cover the topics and concepts of primary relevance to their
course. Chapters are self-contained and can thus be covered in any
order. Following the introductory chapter (Chapter 1, which covers
the general geography of the oceans; a historical perspective of ocean-
ography; the reasoning behind the scientific method; and a discussion
of the origin of Earth, the atmosphere, the oceans, and life itself), the
 Preface xiii

Diving Deeper Preface

A USER’S GUIDE FOR STUDENTS: How to Read a Science Textbook

H ave you known someone who could scan
a reading assignment or sleep with it
under their pillow and somehow absorb all the
information? Studies have shown that those
people haven’t really committed anything to
long-term memory. For most of us, it takes a
focused, concentrated effort to gain knowledge
through reading. Interestingly, if you have the
proper motivation and reading techniques, you
can develop excellent reading comprehension.
What is the best way to read a science textbook
such as this one that contains many new and
unfamiliar terms?
One common mistake is to approach read-
ing a science textbook as one would read a
newspaper, magazine, or novel. Instead, many
reading instructors suggest using the SQ4R
reading technique, which is based on research
about how the brain learns. The SQ4R technique
includes these steps:
1. Survey: Read the title, introduction, major
headings, first sentences, concept state-
ments, review questions, summary, and
study aids to become familiar with the
content in advance.
2. Question: Have questions in mind when
you read. If you can’t think of any good
questions, use the chapter questions as
a guide.
3. Read: Read flexibly through the chapter,
using short time periods to accomplish the
task one section at a time (not all in one
sitting).
4. Recite: Answer the chapter questions. Take
notes after each section and review your
notes before you move on.
5. (w)Rite: Write summaries and/or reflections
on what you’ve read. Write answers to the
questions in Step 2.
6. Review: Review the text using the strategy
in the survey step. Take the time to review
your end-of-section notes as well as your
summaries.
To help you study most effectively, this
textbook includes many study aids that are de-
signed to be used with the SQ4R technique. For
example, each chapter includes a word cloud
of key terms, a list of learning objectives that
are tied to the Essential Concepts throughout
the chapter, review Concept Check questions
embedded at the end of each section, and an
Essential Concepts Review that includes a chap-
ter summary, study resources, and critical think-
ing questions.
Here are some additional reading tips that
may seem like common sense but are often
overlooked:
• Don’t attempt to do your reading when you
are tired, distracted, or agitated.
• Break up your reading into manageable
sections. Don’t save it all until the last
minute.
• Take a short break if your concentration
begins to fade. Listen to music, call a friend,
have a snack, or drink some water. Then
return to your reading.
Remember that being a successful student
is hard work; it is not something one does in his/
her spare time. With a little effort in applying the
SQ4R reading technique, you will begin to see
a difference in what you remember from your
reading.

four major academic disciplines of oceanography are represented in

the following chapters:
• Geological oceanography (Chapters 2–4 and parts of Chapters 10
and 11)
• Chemical oceanography (Chapter 5 and part of Chapter 11)
• Physical oceanography (Chapters 6–9 and parts of Chapters 10
and 11)
• Biological oceanography (Chapters 12–15)
One of the most significant additions to the book in the previous
edition was a new interdisciplinary chapter, “The Oceans and Climate
Change” (Chapter 16), which focuses on the important environmental
issue of human-caused global climate change and its impact on the
ocean. This chapter has been updated in this edition with new infor-
mation and enhanced graphics.
We strongly believe that oceanography is at its best when it
links together several scientific disciplines and shows how they are
interrelated in the oceans. Therefore, this interdisciplinary approach
is a key element of every chapter.
What’s New in This Edition?
Changes in this edition are designed to increase the readability, rel-
evance, and appeal of this book. Major changes include the following:
• A word cloud has been added at the beginning of each chapter. Each
word cloud uses different font sizes to show the most important vo-
cabulary terms within the chapter and directs students to the glos-
sary to discover the meaning of any terms they don’t already know.
• An enhanced learning objectives section, titled Essential Concepts,
has been added at the beginning of each chapter. It highlights the
most important points of each chapter and establishes a discrete
learning path.
• A new active learning pedagogy divides chapter material into easily
digestible chunks, which makes studying easier and assists student
learning. (Cognitive science research shows that the ability to “chunk”
information is essential to enhancing learning and memory.)
• Review Questions now close each major section of the book; these
Concept Checks allow and encourage students to pause and test
their knowledge as they proceed through the chapter.
xiv Preface
• Key Concepts are now reorganized as Essential Concepts that rein-
force the learning path and tie into each section’s Concept Checks.
• A new section titled Essential Concepts Review has been included
at the end of each chapter. This section is tied to each chapter-
opening Essential Concept; it includes a summary and new Study
Resources and Critical Thinking Question sections.
• Information has been updated throughout the text to include some
of the most recent developments in oceanography, such as the 2010
Gulf of Mexico oil spill, the 2011 Japanese earthquake and resulting
tsunami, the hurricane called Superstorm Sandy in 2012, and up-
dated material in Chapter 16, “The Oceans and Climate Change.”
• The improved illustration package of new photos, satellite images,
and figures makes oceanographic topics more accessible and
interesting.
• A host of new artwork has been created by marine biologist and
Digital Graphic Artist Justin Hofman.
• The labeling of all figures has been standardized to make them
more appealing and consistent throughout.
• A total of 60 Web Animations have been included from Pearson’s
Geoscience Animations Library, featuring state-of-the-art computer
animations created by Al Trujillo and a panel of geoscience educators.
• A total of 10 new Geoscience Animations have been added to help
students visualize some of the most challenging oceanographic
concepts, including 10 new animations that have been specifically
designed for this edition.
• Web links have been included to more than 50 hand-picked Web
videos that show important oceanographic processes in action.
• New QR codes have been embedded in the text to allow students to
use their mobile devices to link directly to selected Web videos.
• Encounter Earth call-outs have been added that illustrate interest-
ing oceanographic features with interactive online maps.
• This edition places greater emphasis on the ocean’s role in Earth
systems.
• The information in 12 Diving Deeper features (boxed material)
has been moved to the text to indicate their importance as topics
within oceanography.
• Other accessory Diving Deeper features have been migrated online
to MasteringOceanography as Bonus Web Content.
• The remaining Diving Deeper features are organized around the
following four themes:
• Historical Features, which focus on historical develop-
ments in oceanography that tie into chapter topics
• Research Methods in Oceanography, which high-
light how oceanographic knowledge is obtained
• Oceans and People, which illustrate the interaction of
humans and the ocean environment
• Focus on the Environment, which emphasize envi-
ronmental issues that are an increasingly important compo-
nent of the book
• All text in the chapters has been thoroughly reviewed and edited
in a continued effort to refine the style and clarity of the writing.
• A detailed list of specific chapter-by-chapter changes is available at
www2.palomar.edu/users/atrujillo.
In addition, this edition continues to offer some of the previous
edition’s most popular features, including the following:
• Scientific accuracy and thorough coverage of oceanography
topics
• “Students Sometimes Ask …” questions, which present actual stu-
dent questions along with the authors’ answers
• Use of the international metric system (Système International [SI]
units), with comparable English system units in parentheses
• Explanation of word etymons (etumon = sense of a word) as new
terms are introduced, in an effort to demystify scientific terms by
showing what the terms actually mean
• Use of bold print on key terms, which are defined when they are
introduced and are described in the glossary
• A reorganized “Essential Concepts Review” summary at the end of
each chapter
• All the resources from mygeoscienceplace.com, are now available
within MasteringOceanography, which features chapter-specific
Essential Concepts, eText, Bonus Web Content, Geoscience
Animations, Web Videos, Web Destinations, and three Test
Yourself quiz modules
For the Student
• MasteringOceanography™ delivers engaging, dynamic
learning opportunities—focused on course objectives and re-
sponsive to each student’s progress—that are proven to help stu-
dents absorb course material and understand difficult concepts.
MasteringOceanography includes:
• Study Area, which is designed to be a one-stop resource
for students to acquire study help and serve as a launching
pad for further exploration. Content for the site was written
by author Al Trujillo and is tied, chapter-by-chapter, to the
text. The Study Area is organized around a four-step learning
pathway:
1. Review, which contains Essential Concepts as learning
objectives.
2. Read, which contains the eText and Bonus Web
Content.
3. Visualize, which contains Geoscience Animations, Web
Videos, and Web Destinations. Geoscience Animations
were created by a team of geoscience educators and include
a suite of 60 visualizations that help students understand
complex oceanographic concepts and processes by allowing
the user to control the action. For example, students can
fully examine how an animation develops by replaying it,
controlling its pace, and stopping and starting the anima-
tion anywhere in its sequence. In order to facilitate effective
study, Al Trujillo has written an accompanying narration
and assessment quiz questions including hints and specific
wrong-answer feedback for each animation. Web Videos
include more than 50 hand-selected short video clips of
oceanographic processes in action. Web Destinations
include links to some of the best oceanography sites on
the Web.

4. Test Yourself, which contains three Test Yourself modules,
including multiple-choice and true/false, multiple-answer,
and image-labeling exercises. Answers, once submitted, are
automatically graded for instant feedback.
• RSS Feeds, which allow students to subscribe and stay up-to-
date on oceanographic discoveries.
• Word Study Tools such as flashcards and a searchable on-
line glossary to help make the most of students study time.
• The Pearson eText gives students complete access to a digital
version of the text whenever and wherever you have access to the
Internet. eText pages look exactly like the printed text, offering
powerful new portability and functionality.
• Instructor Manual and TESTGEN are also available on the
Instructor Resource Center (IRC) on DVD
For the Instructor
• MasteringOceanography help instructors maximize class
time with easy-to-assign, customizable, and automatically graded
assessments that motivate students to learn outside of class and ar-
rive prepared for lecture or lab.
• MasteringOceanography provides a rich and flexible set of course
materials to get instructors started quickly, including pre-built assign-
ments that instructors can use as is or customize to fit their needs.
• MasteringOceanography provides quick and easy access to in-
formation on student performance against learning outcomes.
Instructors can quickly add their own learning outcomes, or use
publisher-provided ones, to track student performance.
• The MasteringOceanography gradebook and diagnostic tools
capture the step-by-step work of every student, providing unique
insight into class performance.
• Assignable items in MasteringOceanography include:
• Encounter Oceans Activities, which provide interactive
explorations of oceanography concepts using Google Earth™.
Students work through the activities in Google Earth and then
test their knowledge by answering the assessment questions,
which include hints and specific wrong-answer feedback.
• Geoscience Animation Activities illuminate the most diffi-
cult-to-understand topics in oceanography. The animation ac-
tivities include audio narration, a text transcript, and assignable
multiple-choice questions with specific wrong-answer feedback.
• Coaching Activities, which consist of sophisticated, high-
impact visuals that ask students to demonstrate their knowl-
edge by synthesizing and analyzing core concepts using
higher-order thinking skills.
• Reading Questions, which can be assigned to ensure that
students read the textbook before coming to class. These
questions help your students stay on track, become more
engaged in lecture, and allows them to check their under-
standing of the content.
• Instructor Manual (download only) contains learning
objectives, chapter outlines, answers to embedded end-of-section
questions, and suggested short demonstrations to spice up your
Preface xv
lectures. The Instructor Manual is available in both Microsoft
Word® and Adobe PDF formats.
• TestGen® Computerized Test Bank (download only) is a
computerized test generator that lets instructors view and edit Test
Bank questions, transfer questions to tests, and print the test in a
variety of customized formats. The Test Bank includes nearly 1200
multiple-choice, fill-in-the-blank, and short-answer/essay questions.
All questions are tied to the chapter’s learning outcomes, rated based
on Bloom’s taxonomy of learning domains, and include the section
in which each question’s answer can be found. The Test Bank is also
available in Microsoft Word® and is uploadable into Blackboard
course management system. Test Bank questions are available in
both Microsoft Word® and Adobe PDF formats.
• Instructor Resource Center (IRC) on DVD puts all your lecture
resources in one easy-to-reach place:
• Geoscience Animations: An extensive collection of
60 animations from the Pearson Geoscience Animation
Library can be shown in class to help students understand
some of the most difficult-to-visualize topics of oceanography.
• PowerPoint® presentations: The IRC on DVD includes three
PowerPoint® files for each chapter so that you can cut down on
your preparation time, no matter what your lecture needs:
1. Exclusively art: This file provides all the photos, art,
and tables from the text, in order, loaded into PowerPoint®
slides.
2. Lecture outline: This file averages 35 slides per chapter
and includes customizable lecture outlines with supporting
art.
3. Classroom Response System (CRS) questions:
Authored for use in conjunction with classroom response
systems, this PowerPoint® allows you to electronically poll
your class for responses to questions, pop quizzes, atten-
dance, and more.
• Transparency acetates: Provided electronically, every
table and most of the illustrations in this edition are
available to be printed out as full-color, projection-enhanced
transparencies.
Acknowledgments
We are indebted to many individuals for their helpful comments and
suggestions during the revision of this book. Al Trujillo is indebted to
his colleagues at Palomar Community College for their keen interest
in the project, for allowing him to use some of their creative ideas in
the book, and for continuing to provide valuable feedback. A particu-
larly big thank you goes to Patty Deen for her continuing support and
for recognizing the contribution the book makes to the Oceanography
Program at Palomar College. In addition, Cari Gomes reviewed parts
of the book during the last stages of the production process and pro-
vided valuable corrections when I was unavailable.
Adam Petrusek of Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic,
deserves special recognition for his many suggestions for improv-
ing the text. Adam translated a previous edition of the textbook into
Czech, and in the process, he thoroughly reviewed every part of it.
xvi Preface
Many people were instrumental in helping the text evolve from its
manuscript stage. My chief liaison at Pearson Education, Geoscience
Editor Andrew Dunaway, suggested many of the new ideas in the book
to make it more student-friendly and expertly guided the project. Copy
Editor Kitty Wilson did a superb job of editing the manuscript, catch-
ing many English and other grammar errors, including obscure errors
that had persisted throughout several previous editions. Geosciences
Senior Project Editor Crissy Dudonis kept the book on track by making
sure deadlines were met along the way and facilitated the distribu-
tion of various versions of the manuscripts. Media Producers Lee Ann
Doctor and Tod Regan helped create the electronic supplements that
accompany this book, including MasteringOceanography and all of
its outstanding features. The animations studio Bridge360 crafted the
new animations and added additional ideas, which led to great im-
provements. The Pearson art studios did a beautiful job of moderniz-
ing and updating all maps and many of the figures to make them more
consistent throughout. Art Development Editor Jay McElroy reviewed
every single piece of art throughout the text and suggested many im-
provements to make the figures more clear. Marine biologist and tal-
ented Digital Graphic Artist Justin Hofman supplied a host of new
figures featuring realistic marine organisms that greatly improved the
art program. The artful design elements of the text, including its color
scheme, text wrapping, and end-of-chapter features, was developed
by Layout Designer Gary Hespenheide, in conjunction with Pearson’s
design department. New photos were researched and secured by
Research and Permissions Manager Carly Bergey of PreMediaGlobal.
Last but not least, Senior Production Manager Lindsay Bethoney of
PreMediaGlobal deserves special recognition for her persistence and
encouragement during the many long hours of turning the manu-
script into the book you see today.
Al Trujillo thanks his former student Rich Yonts for reviewing the
entire manuscript in page proofs and catching many typos and other
errors. Al Trujillo would also like to thank his students, whose ques-
tions provided the material for the “Students Sometimes Ask … ” sec-
tions and whose continued input has proved invaluable for improving
the text. Because scientists (and all good teachers) are always experi-
menting, thanks also for allowing yourselves to be a captive audience
with which to conduct my experiments.
Al Trujillo also thanks his patient and understanding family for
putting up with his absence during the long hours of preparing “The
Book.” Finally, appreciation is extended to the chocolate manufactur-
ers Hershey, See’s, and Ghirardelli, for providing inspiration. A heart-
felt thanks to all of you!
Many other individuals (including several anonymous reviewers)
have provided valuable technical reviews for this and previous works.
The following reviewers are gratefully acknowledged:
Patty Anderson, Scripps Institution of Oceanography
William Balsam, University of Texas at Arlington
Tsing Bardin, City College of San Francisco
Steven Benham, Pacific Lutheran University
Lori Bettison-Varga, College of Wooster
Thomas Bianchi, Tulane University
David Black, University of Akron
Mark Boryta, Consumnes River College
Laurie Brown, University of Massachusetts
Kathleen Browne, Rider University
Nancy Bushell, Kauai Community College
Chatham Callan, Hawaii Pacific University
Mark Chiappone, Miami-Dade College-Homestead Campus
Chris Cirmo, State University of New York, Cortland
G. Kent Colbath, Cerritos Community College
Thomas Cramer, Brookdale Community College
Richard Crooker, Kutztown University
Cynthia Cudaback, North Carolina State University
Warren Currie, Ohio University
Hans Dam, University of Connecticut
Dan Deocampo, California State University, Sacramento
Richard Dixon, Texas State University
Holly Dodson, Sierra College
Joachim Dorsch, St. Louis Community College
Wallace Drexler, Shippensburg University
Walter Dudley, University of Hawaii
Iver Duedall, Florida Institute of Technology
Jessica Dutton, Adelphi University
Charles Ebert, State University of New York, Buffalo
Jiasong Fang, Hawaii Pacific University
Kenneth Finger, Irvine Valley College
Benjamin Giese, Texas A&M University
Cari Gomes, MiraCosta College
Dave Gosse, University of Virginia
Carla Grandy, City College of San Francisco
John Griffin, University of Nebraska, Lincoln
Gary Griggs, University of California, Santa Cruz
Joseph Holliday, El Camino Community College
Mary Anne Holmes, University of Nebraska, Lincoln
Timothy Horner, California State University, Sacramento
Alan Jacobs, Youngstown State University
Ron Johnson, Old Dominion University
Uwe Richard Kackstaetter, Metropolitan State University of Denver
Eryn Klosko, State University of New York, Westchester Community College
M. John Kocurko, Midwestern State University
Lawrence Krissek, Ohio State University
Paul LaRock, Louisiana State University
Gary Lash, State University of New York, Fredonia
Richard Laws, University of North Carolina
Richard Little, Greenfield Community College
Stephen Macko, University of Virginia, Charlottesville
Chris Marone, Pennsylvania State University
Matthew McMackin, San Jose State University
James McWhorter, Miami-Dade Community College
Gregory Mead, University of Florida
Keith Meldahl, MiraCosta College
Nancy Mesner, Utah State University
Chris Metzler, MiraCosta College
Johnnie Moore, University of Montana
P. Graham Mortyn, California State University, Fresno
Andrew Muller, Millersville University
Andrew Muller, Utah State University
Jay Muza, Florida Atlantic University
Jennifer Nelson, Indiana University–Purdue University at Indianapolis
Jim Noyes, El Camino Community College
Sarah O’Malley, Maine Maritime Academy
B. L. Oostdam, Millersville University
William Orr, University of Oregon
Donald Palmer, Kent State University
Nancy Penncavage, Suffolk County Community College
Curt Peterson, Portland State University
Edward Ponto, Onondaga Community College
Donald Reed, San Jose State University
 Preface xvii

Randal Reed, Shasta College authors. If you find errors or have comments about the text, please
M. Hassan Rezaie Boroon, California State University, Los Angeles contact us.
Cathryn Rhodes, University of California, Davis
James Rine, University of South Carolina Al Trujillo
Felix Rizk, Manatee Community College Department of Earth, Space, and Aviation Sciences
Angel Rodriguez, Broward Community College Palomar College
Beth Simmons, Metropolitan State College of Denver 1140 W. Mission Rd.
Jill Singer, State University of New York, Buffalo San Marcos, CA 92069
Arthur Snoke, Virginia Polytechnic Institute atrujillo@palomar.edu
Pamela Stephens, Midwestern State University Web: www2.palomar.edu/users/atrujillo
Dean Stockwell, University of Alaska, Fairbanks Oceanography blog for students: www2.palomar.edu/pages/
Scott Stone, Fairfax High School, Virginia deepdeepocean4students/
Lenore Tedesco, Indiana University–Purdue University at Indianapolis
Oceanography blog for instructors: www2.palomar.edu/pages/
Shelly Thompson, West High School
Craig Tobias, University of North Carolina, Wilmington
deepdeepocean4instructors/
M. Craig VanBoskirk, Florida Community College at Jacksonville Hal Thurman
Bess Ward, Princeton University 17580 SE 88th Covington Circle
Jackie Watkins, Midwestern State University The Villages, FL 32162
Arthur Wegweiser, Edinboro University of Pennsylvania ilhvt@embarqmail.com
Diana Wenzel, Seminole State College of Florida
John White, Louisiana State University “If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.”
Katryn Wiese, City College of San Francisco —Loren Eiseley, American educator
John Wormuth, Texas A&M University
and natural science writer (1907–1977)
Memorie Yasuda, Scripps Institution of Oceanography

Although this book has benefited from careful review by

many individuals, the accuracy of the information rests with the

About Our Sustainability Initiatives

Pearson recognizes the environmental challenges facing this planet, as well as acknowledges our
responsibility in making a difference. This book is carefully crafted to minimize environmental
impact. The binding, cover, and paper come from facilities that minimize waste, energy
consumption, and the use of harmful chemicals. Pearson closes the loop by recycling every out-
of-date text returned to our warehouse.
Along with developing and exploring digital solutions to our market’s needs, Pearson has a
strong commitment to achieving carbon-neutrality. As of 2009, Pearson became the first carbon-
and climate-neutral publishing company. Since then, Pearson remains strongly committed to
measuring, reducing, and offsetting our carbon footprint.
The future holds great promise for reducing our impact on Earth’s environment, and Pearson
is proud to be leading the way. We strive to publish the best books with the most up-to-date and
accurate content, and to do so in ways that minimize our impact on Earth. To learn more about
our initiatives, please visit www.pearson.com/responsibility.
 Essential elements
2
Each chapter is organized into sections that start with
learning goals and end with assessment questions tied
Before you begin reading this chapter, use the glossary
to those learning
at the end of this goals. The end-of-chapter
book to discover the meanings of material

form a path to
any of these words you don’t already know:
is also organized by the chapter’s sections, helping
students remain focused on the essential concepts

successful learning
throughout the chapter.
60 ChapTer 2 Plate Tectonics and the Ocean Floor

Plate tectonics and eARthquAkes AssociAted With tRAnsFoRM boundARies The movement of
one plate past another—a process called transform faulting—produces shallow

the ocean Floor

EssEntial ConCEpt 2.3 but often strong earthquakes in the lithosphere. Magnitudes of Mw = 7.0 have been
The three main types of plate boundaries are divergent recorded along some oceanic transform faults. One of the best-studied faults in the
(plates moving apart, such as at the mid-ocean ridge), world is California’s San Andreas Fault, a continental transform fault that runs
convergent (plates moving together, such as at an ocean from the Gulf of California past San Francisco and beyond into northern California.
trench), and transform (plates sliding past each other, such Because the San Andreas Fault cuts through continental crust, which is much
as at a transform fault). thicker than oceanic crust, earthquakes are considerably larger than those produced
by oceanic transform faults, sometimes up to Mw = 8.5.

▶ Each
e
ach year at various
chapter locations
opens around
with a the globe, several thousand earthquakes
EssEntial ConCEpts ConCEpt ChECk 2.3
and dozens of volcanic eruptions occur, both of which indicate how remark-
At the end of this chapter, you should be able to:
listablyofdynamic
learning objectives
our planet is. These events have occurred throughout
❶ Most lithospheric history,
plates contain
on the type of crust contained on
constantly changing the surface of our planet, yet onlyboth a few decades
oceanic- and ago, most
continental-
2.1 Describe the evidence that supports continental called Essential Concepts ,
scientists believed the continents were stationary over type geologic
crust. time. Since
Use plate that to
boundaries
the two colliding plates. Compare
and contrast the different types of
drift
which
time, a boldprovides a roadmap
new theory has explainsurface
been advanced that helps explain why thisfeatures
is true. and
❷ Describe the differences between
convergent boundaries that result
2.2 Describe the evidence that supports plate tectonics phenomena on Earth, including: from these collisions.
to the chapter. Each chapter oceanic ridges and oceanic rises.
❹ Describe the differences in earth-
2.3 Discuss the ocean and land features that occur at • The worldwide locations of volcanoes, faults, earthquakes, and
Include mountain
in your answer why these
plate boundaries section
building focuses on one differences exist.
quake magnitudes that occur
between the three types of plate
2.4 summarize some of the applications of plate • main Essential
Why mountains Concept,
on Earth haven’t been eroded away❸ Convergent boundaries can be boundaries and explain why these
tectonics divided into three types, based differences occur.
• and
The origin of most landforms
many sections include and ocean floor features
2.5 Demonstrate an understanding of how Earth has • How the continents and ocean floor formed and why they are different
changed in the past and how it will look in the • sub Essential Concepts. Each chapter section ends with a Concept Check,

▶
The continuing development of Earth’s surface
future
2.6 Discuss how plate tectonics is used as a working
• The distribution of past and present life on Earth 2.4which
testing
asks the Model:
students What
to stop are some
and check their
model to help explain features and processes on
Earth
EUROPE Greenland
This revolutionary new theory is called plate tectonics (plate = plates of the
lithosphere; tekton = to build), or “the new global geology.” According to the theory
understanding of the Essential Concept before applications of plate tectonics?
NORTH of plate tectonics, the outermost portion of Earth One
is moving
of
composed the strengthsof aon oftoplate
patchwork thetectonic
ofnexttheory section. is how it unifies so many seemingly
AMERICA

thin, rigid plates1 that move horizontally with respect separate

to oneevents another, intolike a single
icebergs consistent model. Let’s look at a few examples that
illustrate how plate tectonic processes can be used to explain
72 ChapTer 2 Plate Tectonics and the Ocean Floor floating on water. As a result, theHotspot continents volcano are mobile and move about on Earth’s
the origin of features that, up until the acceptance of plate
surface, controlled by forces deep within Earth.
EssentialAMERICA Concepts Review
AFRICA
tectonics, were difficult to explain. essential Concepts Review 73
SOUTH
The interaction of these plates as they move builds features of Earth’s crust
2.1 What evidence supports continental drift? (such as mountain belts,(c)volcanoes,2.4and testingocean basins).
the model: What are For
some example,
applications the of platetallest
tectonics?

mountain
the outermost range on Earth
is composedis of athe Himalaya Mountains that extend through
▸ Tests of the plate tectonic model indicate that many features and hotspots India,
phenomena and
provide support Mantle plumes
for shift-
Ho

▸ According to the theory of plate tectonics, portion of Earth

Direction of
plate motion

ing plates. These include mantle plumes and their associated hotspots that record the motion of
Nepal,
patchwork of thin, rigid lithospheric plates and Bhutan.
that move horizontally with respect toThis mountain plates
one another. range contains
(d)origin of rocks
flat-topped that were deposited
tsp

“It is just as if we were to refit theThe torn pieces

idea began of called continental
as a hypothesis drift proposed by Alfred Wegener at the start
past them, the tablemounts, Although
stages the theory
of coral reef development, and of
de- plate tectonics helped explain the ori-
Midway
Islands
Kauai
3.8–5.6 Molokai
ot

1.3–1.8 Maui
MTS.
millions of ago,
years ago inwereacom-shallow sea, providing testimony of the gin power and features near plate boundaries, it did not seem to
tection of plate motion by accurate positioning of locations on Earth using satellites. less than 1.0

of the 20th century. He suggested that about 200 million years all the continents
of many
AN Hawaii
NI
a newspaper by matching their edges bined intoand then
Oahu
tra

0.7 to present
DO
2.2–3.3

one large continent (Pangaea) surrounded by a single large ocean (Panthalassa). study Resources
persistence of plate tectonic activity. Online Study Guide Quizzes, Web Animations
LE

Hotspot
ck

explain the origin of intraplate (intra = within, plate = plate of

CA

Oceanic crust
BRITISH

check whether the linesEUROPE of print ▸run smoothly

NORTH ISLES
Many lines of evidence were used to support the idea of continental drift, including the simi-
In this chapter, we’ll
chains,examine thecritical
early ideas about the movement ofthe plates, the
AMERICA
lithosphere) features that are far from any plate boundary.
Oceanic

N
MT
S.
lar shape of nearby continents, matching sequences of rocks and mountain glacial thinking question Detroit
Aleutian Trench lithosphere

IA

across. If they do, there is nothingages left but to

and other climate evidence, and the distribution of fossil and present-day organisms. 81 my
CH

Although this evidence suggested that evidence for those ideas, and how they led to theintheory oftheplate
Aleutiantectonics. ThenIslands.
Emperor
LA
IslandsFor instance, how can plate tectonics explain volcanic islands
Suiko

PA
continents Describe the differences origin between and the Hawaiian Provide Seamont chain

(b)have drifted, other incorrect assumptions

65 my
Hawaiian chain
AP

Mantle
evidence to support your explanation.
conclude that the piecesAFRICA were in fact joined in
about the mechanism involved caused many geologists and geophysicists to discount this hy-
pothesis throughout the first half of the we’ll explore features of plate boundaries and some applications of platenear tectonics,
plume

the middle of a plate? Areas of intense volcanic activ-

Midway
Islands Hawaii
27 my
20th century. Ages given in

this way.” including what our planet may look like in the future. ity that remain in more or less the same location over long
millions of years

study Resources
Online Study Guide Quizzes, Web Animations
periods of geologic time and are unrelated to plate boundar-
SOUTH
AMERICA —Alfred Wegener, critical The
thinkingOrigins
question of (a)
ies are called hotspots.9 For example, the continuing volca-
2.5 how has earth changed in the past, and how will it 2.6 how can plate tectonics be used as a working model?
Continents and Oceans (1915)
If you could travel back in time with three illustrations from this chapter to help Alfred
Wegener convince the scientists of his day that continental drift does indeed exist, what would look in the future? nism in Yellowstone National Park and Hawaii are caused by
▸ Working models of plate tectonics include the Wilson cycle, which
they be, and why? hotspots. describes the life cycle of ocean basins during their formation, growth,
Figure1These Origin
2.24 thin, and
rigid development
plates are pieces of ofthemantle ▸ The positions
plumes
lithosphere and
that of various sea
comprise floor andoutermost
Earth's continental features have changed
portion
Whyand is
in the past, continue to change today, there
will look so and
very differentmuch contain and destruction over millions of years.
in the volcanic activity at hotspots? The plate tectonic
hotspots. oceanic and/or continental
According to the plume crust, as described
hypothesis, (a)inafuture.
Chapter
plume 1.of
2.2 What evidence supports plate tectonics?
hot buoyant material detaches from the deep mantle or the
model infers that hotspot volcanism is caused
study Resources
Online Study by Web
Guide Quizzes, presence of mantle plumes
theAnimation
study Resources
core–mantle boundary; (b) the plume rises moreOnline
▸ More convincing evidence for drifting continents was introduced in the 1960s, when paleomagne- rapidly
NORTH
Studyin (pluma
Guide Quizzes, = a soft feather), which
Web Animation
1.6
35are columnar areas of hot molten rock that arise
critical thinking question
tism—the study of Earth’s ancient magnetic field—was developed and the significance of features from deep within the mantle (Figure 2.24). cycleMantle plumes canthebe identified by
AMERICAN EURASIAN
P L AT E

its conduit than the plume head can push throughcritical viscous
P L AT E

Using the Wilson as a predictive model, describe sequence

EURASIAN
PLATE 2.8

of the ocean floor became better known. The paleomagnetism of the ocean floor is permanently
JUAN DE
FUCA PLATE
San Andreas
Fault thinking question
that you travel at researchers who measurecontinent—at how fast seismic waves from earthquakes travel below
of events that will happen in the future to the East Africa Rift Valleys.
CARIBBEAN 2.5
PLATE 2.0

recorded in oceanic crust and reveals stripes of normal and reverse magnetic polarity mantle,
in a sym- which inflates the head and elevates Earth’s
PHILIPPINE
PLATE PA C I F I C
Assume surface; the same rate as a fast-moving ARABIAN
PLATE INDIAN

Also, do the same for the Atlantic Ocean.

10.0 PLATE
3.0

a rate of 10 centimeters (2.5 inches) per year. Calculate how long it

COCOS PLATE 6.0 4.0

metric pattern relative to the mid-ocean ridge.

East

ground; the underlying principle is that seismic waves move more slowly through
Africa
Rift

(c) decompression near the surface partially meltswould thetakeplume

P L AT E 12.0 SOUTH Valleys
AFRICAN

you to travel from your present location to a nearby large

AMERICAN P L AT E
NAZCA
P L AT E

▸ Harry Hess advanced the idea of sea floor spreading. New sea floor is created at the crest of the mid-
P L AT E
AUSTRALIAN 16.5
3.5

head, city. Also, calculate how long it would take you to travel across the
intowhich comes to the surface and creates a hotspot
PLATE 2.0
7.0

ocean ridge and moves apart in opposite directions and is eventually destroyed by subduction
0.5
SCOTIA PLATE
Stage, showing cross-sectional view Motion Physiography Example

United States from the East Coast to the West Coast. EMBRYONIC
6.0 Convergent boundaries Direction of plate movement

an ocean trench. This helps explain the pattern of magnetic stripes on the sea floor and why sea and (d) the volcano is carried away by plate motion
volcano;
Divergent boundaries 0.5 Spreading rate (cm/yr)

A N T A R C T I C P L A T E
Transform fault boundaries Diffuse plate boundary
Uplift Complex system of East Africa
linear rift valleys rift valleys

floor rocks increase linearly in age in either direction from the axis of the mid-ocean ridge. Other
(b) Plate boundaries define the major tectonic plates (shaded), with arrows indicating the direction of motion
and numbers representing the rate of motion in centimeters per year. on continent

M02_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C02.indd 35
supporting evidence for plate tectonics includes oceanic heat flow measurements and the aspattern
the plume tailearthquakes.
of worldwide continues Theto feed subsequent
combination of evi- volcanoes, 9Note that a hotspot is different from 10/11/12
either a12:31 PM arc or a mid-ocean ridge (both of which are related
volcanic JUVENILE

dence convinced geologists of Earth’s dynamic nature and helped advance the idea of continental drift into the more encompassing plate tectonic theory.
Divergence Narrow seas with Red Sea

creating a hotspot track (nematath). Diagram not to scale. to plate boundaries), even though all are marked by a high degree of volcanic activity. Equator
(spreading) matching coasts

study Resources MATURE

Online Study Guide Quizzes, Web Table 2.1, Web Animations Divergence
(spreading)
Ocean basin with
continental margins
Atlantic and
Arctic Oceans
540 million years ago

DECLINING
critical thinking question + ++
470 million years ago +++++
++++
++
Convergence Island arcs and Pacific Ocean

Why was the pattern of alternating reversals of Earth’s magnetic field, as recorded in sea floor rocks, such an important piece of evidence for advancing
(subduction) trenches around
basin edge

the theory of plate tectonics? 430 million years ago TERMINAL

Convergence Narrow, irregular Mediterranean
+++++
+++++++++ ++++
++++ ++
(collision) seas with young Sea
370 million years ago ++++++ and uplift mountains

2.3 What features occur at plate boundaries? 300 million years ago
SUTURING

Convergence Young to mature Himalaya

and uplift mountain belts Mountains

▸ As new crust is added to the lithosphere at the mid-ocean ridge (divergent boundaries where plates move
M02_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C02.indd 60 240 million years ago 10/11/12 12:33 PM
apart), the opposite ends of the plates are subducted into the mantle at ocean trenches or beneath continen-
tal mountain ranges such as the Himalayas (convergent boundaries where plates come together). In addi-
Plate Plate
170 million years ago

tion, oceanic ridges and rises are offset, and plates slide past one another along transform faults (transform
Mastering Oceanography
Asthenosphere

(a) Divergent, where plates move away from each other.

boundaries where plates slowly grind past one another). 120 million years ago

study Resources Plate Plate

65 million years ago www.masteringoceanography.com
Online Study Guide Quizzes, Web Diving Deeper 2.1, Web Animations
Asthenosphere

(b) Convergent, where plates approach each other.

Looking for additional review and test prep materials? Visit the Study
critical thinking question Plate
Area in MasteringOceanography to enhance your understanding of
Plate

this chapter’s content by accessing a variety of resources, including

Asthenosphere

List and describe the three types of plate boundaries. Include in your discussion any sea floor features that Present

are related to these plate boundaries and include a real-world example of each. Construct a map view and
(c) Transform, where plates slide past each other.
Self-Study Quizzes, Geoscience Animations, GEODe Tutorials, RSS
cross section showing each of the three types of plate boundaries, including the direction of plate movement and associated features. feeds, flashcards, Web links, and an optional Pearson eText.

Each chapter ends with the Essential Concepts Review, which simplifies the study process.
▶

M02_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C02.indd 72 10/11/12 12:34 PM

Also organized by section, this review provides a visual summary of the chapter’s key concepts M02_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C02.indd 73 10/11/12 12:34 PM

and figures, and also includes study resources and Critical Thinking Questions.
 Dynamic visuals and
Highly visual and interactive tools demystify
oceanography by enabling students to see
oceanographic processes in action.

integrated media bring

146 146 5 Chapter
Chapter Water and
5 Water
Seawater
and Seawater

the hydrologic
Figure 5.18Figure 5.18 the hydrologic

oceanography to life
cycle. All water
cycle.is All
in con-
water is in con-
tinual motiontinual
between
motion the
between the
various components
various components
(res- (res- 380,000 km3380,000 km3 =evaporated
= total water total water evaporate
ervoirs) of the
ervoirs)
hydrologic
of the hydrologic
cycle. Volumes
cycle.
areVolumes
Earth’s are Earth’s
average yearly
average
amountsyearly amounts
in cubic kilometers;
in cubic kilometers;
table table PrecipitationPrecipitation
(land) (land)
Evaporation Evaporation
shows averageshowsyearly
average
flux yearly flux 96,000 km3 96,000 km3 and transpiration
and transpiration
between reservoirs;
betweenice reservoirs;
not ice not 60,000 km3 60,000 km3
shown. shown.
Runoff Runoff
A wide
36,000 kmvariety of video
clips that show
3 36,000 km3

various oceanographic processes in action Evapo

Infiltration Infiltration 320,0
are referenced throughout the book. These PrecipitationPrecipitation
clips can be accessed via students’ mobile (ocean) (ocean)
284,000 km3284,000 km3
devices using Quick Response (QR) codes
found within the textbook’s pages.
Annual fluxes
Annual
between
fluxes
reservoirs
between reservoirs
Volume Volume
(cubic kilometers
(cubic kilometers
368 Chapter 12 Marine Life and the Marine Environment
Pathway Pathway per year) per year)

Ocean
Although nekton move freely, many to atmosphere
are unable Ocean
to move to atmosphere
throughout 320,000
the breadth 320,000
of the ocean. Gradual changes in temperature, salinity, viscosity, and availability of
Atmosphere
nutrients effectively limit their lateral Atmosphere
toofocean
range. The deaths large numbersto of ocean
284,000
fish, 284,000
for example, can be caused by temporary horizontal shifts
Atmosphere of water masses
Atmosphere
to continent toincontinent
the
96,000 96,000
ocean. Changes in water pressure normally limit the vertical range of nekton.
Continent
Fish may appear to exist everywhere toContinent
in the oceans, atmosphere toabundant
but they are most atmosphere
60,000 60,000
near continents and islands and in colder waters. Some fish, such as salmon, ascend
freshwater rivers to spawn. Many Continent
eels do just the to Continent
ocean
reverse, growing toto ocean
maturity 36,000
in 36,000
freshwater and then descending the streams to breed in the great depths of the ocean.

Geoscience Animation icons Benthos (Bottom Dwellers)

Web Animation
Web Animation
The term benthos (benthos = bottom) describes organisms living on or in the ocean
link the narrative to state-of- bottom. Epifauna (epi = upon, fauna = animal) live on the surface of the sea floor,
Earth’s Water
Earth’s
andWater
the and the
either attached to rocks or moving along the bottom. Infauna (in = inside, fauna =
the-art animations and help HydrologicHydrologic
Cycle In addition,
Cycle InFigure
addition,
animal) live buried in the sand, shells, or mud. Some benthos, called nektobenthos 5.18Figure
shows5.18
the shows
averagethe
yearly
average
amounts
yearlyofamounts
transfer,o
students visualize challenging (nektos = swimming, benthos = bottom), live on the bottom yet also have the ability
to swim or crawl through the water above the ocean floor (such as flat-fish, octo- of water between
of watervarious
betweenreservoirs.
various reservoirs.
oceanographic concepts. puses, crabs, and sea urchins). Examples of benthos are shown in Figure 12.7.

StUDentS
StUDentS
SometimeS
SometimeS
ASk . . ASk
. ... Dissolved
Dissolved
Components
Components
Added Added
to and to
removed
and rem
from Seawater
from Seawater
You mentioned
when seawater
You mentioned
that
when seawater
E that
E
arly Arctic explorers
arly Arctic
found

tion by necessity.
explorers found
out the answer out to
tion bySome
theyour answer
6

necessity.
ques-
of these
to your Seawater
ques- salinity
Seawater
Interestingly,
Some of these
is asalinity
Interestingly,
function
dissolved substances
is aoffunction
the amount
dissolved substances
of the
do not remain
ofamount
dissolved
do notin the
remain
of components
ocean
dissolved compo
in forever.
the ocean
in se
Inste
for
freezes, it freezes, producesit produces
3 explorers who explorers
traveled
5 whoby shiptraveled by shipare cycled are
intocycled
and out intoofandseawater
out ofby seawater
the processes
by the shown
processes in Figure
shown 5.19in F
ice with about ice with 10%about 10%
processes include
processes stream
include runoff,
stream in runoff,
which streams
in whichdissolve
streamsions dissolve
from ions
con
7
1
in high-latitude 4 in high-latitude
regions became regions became
salinity. Once salinity.
that Once that
2 inadvertentlyinadvertently or purposelyor purposely rocks and rocks carry andthemcarry to the them
sea, to andthevolcanic
sea, anderuptions,
volcanic eruptions,
both on the both
land o
ice melts, can ice melts,
a per- can a per-11
entrapped by entrapped
sea ice (see, by sea the sea floor.
for 12ice (see, for the Other
sea floor.sourcesOther include
sources theinclude
atmosphere
the atmosphere
(which contributes
(which cont gas
son drink itson with drink
no it with no
example, Web diving
example, Webdeeper diving deeper biological interactions.
biological
The new edition includes over 50
interactions.
ill effects? ill effects? 8 FPO
7.1,
10
7.1, which
which describes the describes
remark- the remark- newStream
fi guresrunoff
, Stream
designedis therunoff
to primary
make is themethod
primary bymethod
which dissolved
by which substances
dissolved sub ar
9
able voyageable of the Fram).ofLacking
voyage the Fram). other Lacking
water othersources, water they tooceanographic
sources, they the oceans.
to the Table
oceans.
topics 5.4 compares
Table
even more5.4 the compares
major components
the major components
dissolved in dissolve
stream
13 used meltedused sea ice. meltedAlthoughsea ice.newly Althoughformed newly
sea formed
ice16contains with
sea ice contains thosewith
accessible in
andseawater.
those in
easier toItvisualize.
seawater.
shows that It shows
streams that
have
streams
far lowerhavesalinity
far lowerandsalinit
a va
little salt, it does little salt,
trap ita doessignificant
trap aamountsignificant of brine
amount (dropsof brine
of (drops ferent
of composition
ferent composition
of dissolved of substances
dissolved substances
than seawater. thanFor seawater.
example,Forbica
exa
salty water).salty Depending water). on Depending
the 15rate of onfreezing,
the rate of newly freezing,
formed ion (HCO3ion
newly formed -) is(HCO
the most -) isabundant
the most dissolved
abundant constituent
dissolved constituent
in stream water
in stream
yet i
3
ice14
may have ice a may
total have
salinity a total
from salinity
4 to 15%.
from The
4 to more
15%. rapidly
The more in only
rapidly trace
in only
amounts trace in
amounts
seawater. in Conversely,
seawater. Conversely,
the most abundant
the most dissolved
abundant
it forms, theitmore forms, brine
the itmorecaptures brineand it captures
the higher andthe thesalinity. nent in seawater
higher the salinity. nent inisseawater
the chloride is theion (Cl-), which
chloride -), which
ion (Clexists in veryexists
small
in very
concentra
smal
Melted sea ice Melted withsea salinityice with
this highsalinitydoesn’t
this high tastedoesn’t
very good, streams. streams.
taste very good,
Figure 12.7 Benthos (bottom dwellers): representative intertidal and shallow subtidal forms. Schematic drawing of various benthos organisms.
anddollars,
Organisms include (1) sponges, (2) sand it still causes
and
(3) crinoid, (4) seaitanemones
dehydration,
still causes dehydration,
but(5)not
(open and closed), as (6)quickly
barnacles, but not
mussels, (7)as quickly as drinking If stream water
asdrinking
sea urchin, If stream is thewatermain is source
the main of dissolved
source of substances
dissolved substances
in seawat
(8) sea cucumber, (9) sea hare, (10) shore crab, (11) sea star, (12) abalone, (13) ghost crab, (14) lug worm, (15) annelid worm, and (16) clam.
35‰ seawater 35‰ does.seawater
Over time, does.however,
Over time, thehowever,
brine willthe trickle do the components
brine will trickle do the components
of the twoof not thematch
two not
eachmatch
othereachmoreotherclosely?
moreOne
closel
of
down through down thethrough
coarse structure
the coarse of structure
the sea ice, of sotheitssea ice, so its sons is thatsons some is that
dissolved some substances
dissolved substances
stay in thestayocean in and
the ocean
accumulate
and accu ov
salinity decreases. salinityBy decreases.
the time By it isthe
a year
timeold, it issea
a year ice normally
old, sea ice normally Residence Residence
time is thetime average
is thelength
average of time
lengththatof atime
substance
that a substance
resides in theres
becomes relatively becomes pure.
relatively
Drinking pure.melted
Drinking sea icemelted enabled sea ice enabledLong residence Long times
residence lead times
to higher
leadconcentrations
to higher concentrations
of the dissolvedof the substan
dissolv
M12_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C12.indd 368 30/10/12 9:05 PM

these early explorers these early toexplorers

survive. to survive. (Na+) for
sodium ionsodium (Na+) forhas
ion instance, instance,
a residence
has a time
residence
of 260timemillion
of 260years,
millioa
result, hasresult,
a highhas
concentration
a high concentration
in the ocean.
in the
Other
ocean.
elements
Othersuch
elements
as alus
A focus on the environment and climate change
throughout the book addresses these important
issues in a variety of ways.
Smokestacks spew
human-caused emissions into
the atmosphere. Emissions from
the combustion of fossil fuels by
power plants, cars, and factories
are released into the atmosphere.
These human-caused emissions
are affecting all parts of the
environment and especially the
oceans.
M16_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C16.indd 492
The new edition includes a chapter entirely
dedicated to the topic of climate change.
Chapter 16 includes detailed coverage of
greenhouse gases and the unintended and
severe changes in the ocean, such as ocean
warming, more intense hurricanes, increasing
ocean acidity, changes in deep-water circulation,
melting of polar ice, and rising sea level.
Diving deeper: Focus on
the Environment discuss
interesting and current
environmental issues,
emphasizing their relevance
to the world’s oceans.
Timely and topical:
The environment
and climate change
Before you begin reading this chapter, use the glossary
at the end of this book to discover the meanings of
any of these words you don’t already know:
ESSEntial ConCEptS
At the end of this chapter, you should be able to:
16.1 Describe the components of Earth’s climate system
16.2 Discuss whether Earth’s recent climate change is
natural or caused by human influence
16.3 Demonstrate an understanding of how the
atmosphere’s greenhouse effect works
16.4 Describe the changes that are occurring in the
oceans as a result of global warming
16.5 Discuss what should be done to reduce greenhouse
gases
“Human-induced climate change is a reality, not
only in remote polar regions and in small tropi-
cal islands, but everyplace around the country, in
our own backyards. It’s happening. It’s happening
now. It’s not just a problem for the future. We are
beginning to see its impacts in our daily lives. More
than that, humans are responsible for the changes
that we are seeing, and our actions now will deter-
mine the extent of future change and the severity
of the impacts.”
—Jane Lubchenco, marine
ecologist and NOAA chief
administrator (2009)
344 Chapter 11 The Coastal Ocean
11/7/12 1:02 AMM16_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C16.indd 493
Diving Deeper 11.1 Focus on the Environment
The 2010 Gulf Of MexicO Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill
O n April 20, 2010, the Deepwater Horizon,
an offshore drilling platform operating in
the Gulf of Mexico by British Petroleum (BP),
was completing the final stages of drilling a
deep oil well. The floating platform was located toxic to some organism) or chemically dispersed.
about 80 kilometers (50 miles) off the coast
of Louisiana and in 1500 meters (5000 feet)
of water beyond the edge of the continental
shelf. Unexpectedly, it received a “kick” from a
large bubble of natural gas that was under high lated as tar balls on the sea floor. Studies indicate
pressure at the bottom of the well 4 kilometers
(2.5 miles) beneath the sea floor. The blowout
preventer on the sea floor failed, and the natu­
ral gas bubble rushed to the drilling platform,
which exploded and caught fire (see the
chapter­opening photo), killing 11 crew mem­
bers. Two days after the explosion, the Deepwater oxygen, sunlight, and the Gulf's abundant oil­
Horizon sank, leaving the well gushing crude
oil at the seabed at a rate of about 9 million
liters (2.4 million gallons) per day (Figure 11A).
Three months later, an underwater robotic ve­
hicle was finally able to cap
the well, but the amount of oil
released became the world's
MISSISSIPPI
second­largest oil spill (the
world's largest accidental spill
into the ocean) and by far the LOUISIANA Biloxi
largest oil spill in U.S. waters. New Orleans
In all, 780 million liters
(206 million gallons) of oil
were released from the well.
A deluge of chemical disper­
sants—detergent­like solvents
designed to break up the oil Extent of
oil spill
but considered more toxic
to marine life than the oil
itself—were applied both at
90°W
the surface and in deep water.
Scientists estimate that BP re­
moved about a quarter of the
oil, most of it recovered directly
from the well, burned at sea, Figure 11A the 2010 Gulf of Mexico oil spill.
M11_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C11.indd 344
16
The Oceans and
climaTe change
c
limate change and global warming are topics that have received much media at-
tention recently. These topics are often in public opinion polls and in newspaper
headlines; as such, they have spurred intense debate on whether climate change
is natural or human caused and what climate changes are likely to occur in the future.
These topics have also become the subject of numerous international conferences and
have spurred complicated discussions among journalists and scientists. Human-caused
climate change continues to be one of the most studied aspects of climate science.
Throughout its long history, Earth has experienced both warmer and cooler
global climates as compared to today’s climate. In fact, evidence from fossils, sea
floor sediments, and rocks on land suggest that many places on Earth have expe-
rienced dramatic swings in climate over geologic time. For example, some regions
are known to have remained at cooler high latitudes (after taking into account the
movement of tectonic plates over time), yet they exhibit fossils such as corals and
coal deposits that are indicative of warmer temperatures. Alternatively, there are
other regions that are known to have been located at low latitudes, yet they exhibit
sediments likely to have been produced by glaciation.
Numerous climate science studies suggest that human activities—not natural
variability—are the cause of the recent documented changes in Earth’s climate.
Unlike past climate changes, modern climate change is dominated by human influ-
ences so large and occurring so rapidly that they exceed the bounds of any natural
factors that influence Earth’s climate. Moreover, these changes are likely to con-
tinue for at least the next 1000 years. Climate changes can be very disruptive not
only to humans but to many other life-forms as well, especially if they occur as
rapidly as some scientists predict.
In this chapter, we will examine Earth’s climate system, the science that indi-
cates Earth’s recent and dramatic climate change, how the greenhouse effect works,
what effects are being felt in the oceans today, and what can be done about this
urgent problem.
16.1 What Comprises Earth’s
Climate System?
Climate is defined as the conditions of Earth’s atmosphere—including tempera-
ture, precipitation, and wind—that characteristically prevail in a particular region
over extended time spans.
493
11/7/12 1:02 AM
or skimmed by boats. Another quarter of the oil
evaporated or dissolved into scattered molecules.
And a third quarter was either naturally dispersed
bottom and became entrained in low­oxygen
sediments like those on the sea floor—or a
marsh—can hang around for decades, degrading
in the water as small droplets (which might still be
But the last quarter—around five times the
the environment. The cost of the cleanup, which
will be funded by BP and its partners over the
next 20 years, is estimated to exceed $40 billion.
amount released by the Exxon Valdez—formed
slicks or sheens on the water (Figure 11A), washed
Birds, sea turtles, marine mammals, fish,
and shellfish were some of the most affected
marine organisms. Local fisheries were shut
onto local beaches and marshes, and accumu­
that some oil never made it to the surface; in­
down after the spill but have been reopened
since. It is unknown how this vast release of oil
stead, the oil formed diffuse plumes more than and chemical dispersants will affect marine or­
1000 meters (3300 feet) below the surface, the ganisms and the Gulf ecosystem, especially over
effects of which are still not clear. time. Long­term studies are under way that will
Fortunately, most of the oil remained
offshore, where wave energy combined with
reveal how much damage the spill has done to
the Gulf's marine life.
eating bacteria were able to naturally biodegrade
it. Some of the oil, however, washed onto local
beaches and salt marshes, fouling the shore and
killing marine animals. The oil that sank to the
ALABAMA GEORGIA
ATLANTIC
Mobile
OCEAN 30°N
Pensacola
FLORIDA
Patches of dead coral were
covered in a brown substance
Gulf of Mexico 25°N
85°W
80°W
of crude oil into the Gulf of Mexico, and some of the oil washed up along the coast
of Texas (Figure 11.17).
HOw DAmAging is Oil POllutAnt in tHE OcEAn? Oil is a mixture of various
hydrocarbons, which means it is composed of the elements hydrogen and carbon.
Hydrocarbons are organic substances, so they can be broken down, or biodegraded,
9/24/12 7:44 PM
M04_TRUJ405
 Everyday topics in a real world context help students
relate oceanography to their lives while engaging Turning 4.4 What are the Characteristics of Hydrogenous Sediment? 115

interest into
them in how oceanography is studied.
active fluids. To make rock candy, for instance,
a pan of water is heated and sugar is added. When
the water is hot and the sugar dissolved, the pan is
removed from the heat, and the sugar water is al-
lowed to cool. The change in temperature causes the
sugar to become oversaturated, which causes it to
precipitate. As the water cools, the sugar precipitates
engagement
on anything that is put in the pan, such as pieces of
string or kitchen utensils.

Composition and Distribution of (a) 8.5 How are tsunami Created? 259 (b)
Hydrogenous sediment
Although hydrogenous sediments represent a rela-
diving deeper 8.1 Oceans and People The new edition includes a variety of
tively WavEs
small Of portion
DEsTRuCTiOn:of the overall THE 2011sediment in the
JapanEsE TsunaMi features, including Historical Features,
ocean, they have many different
and sent out compositions and Research Methods in Oceanography,
Oseismologists in
n March 11,

are distributed
2011, the nation of Japan
around the world received a
diverse
tsunami
warnings across the
environments of deposition. and Oceans and People. These features
138°E 142°E 144°E

terrible surprise: A huge earthquake, significantly Pacific and accurately

stronger than people had anticipated or pre- predicted its arrival, al-
pared for in the region, struck off the northeast- lowing coastal commu- Mw= 9.0 Earthquake foster multi-dimensional understanding
MANGANeSe NODuleS Manganese nodules are
Tohoku Epicenter
ern shore of Japan. The great 2011 Mw = 9.0 nities to prepare. The
with captivating examples and stories.
40°N Earthquake
Tohoku Earthquake—named for the region it tsunami struck Hawaii

rounded, hard lumps of manganese, iron, and other

struck—occurred along the Japan Trench where seven hours after the TOHOKU
H
E N C

the Pacific Plate is being subducted underneath earthquake—and the REGION

metals typically 5 centimeters (2 inches) in diameter

Japan (Figure 8A). It shifted the coast of Japan
up to 8 meters (26 feet) eastward and also up-
coast of California three
hours later still—with
Sendai 38°N
T R

up to a maximum of about 20 centimeters (8 inches).

lifted the sea floor by as much as 5 meters (16.4
feet) over an area comparable in size to the state
a surge up to 2 meters
(7 feet) that damaged
Fukushima
PA C I F I C
When cut in half, they often reveal a layered struc-
of Connecticut; this sudden vertical movement
of the sea floor imparted energy into the Pacific
harbors, marinas, and
coastal resorts. Minor
J A PA N OCEAN

ture formed by precipitation around a central nucle-

N

36°N
Ocean and generated one of the largest and damage occurred in
A

Tokyo
best-studied tsunami in history. Peru and Chile when
P

ation object (Figure 4.17a). The nucleation object

J A

Although Japan prides itself in disaster pre- the wave struck their

may be a piece of lithogenous sediment, coral, volca-

paredness, many residents did not get accurate coastlines 20 to 22 0 50 100 Miles

tsunami warnings, and many chose to say in hours after the event. 0 50 100 Kilometers
34°N

nic rock, a fish bone, or a shark’s tooth. Manganese

34°N
dangerous locations in part because they misun- The Philippines,
derstood the risks. Based on the initial estimates Indonesia, and New 140°E 142°E 144°E

nodules are found on the deep-ocean floor at con-

of the earthquake, the Japan Meteorological
Agency (JMA) issued a tsunami warning within
Guinea were also af-
fected by the tsunami.
Figure 8A the great 2011 tohoku earthquake. Map location of the
Mw = 9.0 Tohoku Earthquake, which was the most powerful earthquake
centrations of about 100 nodules per square meter
three minutes from the start of the shaking. The
agency’s warning predicted a tsunami surge of
In Japan, shaking
from the earthquake
ever to have hit Japan. It occurred along the Japan Trench and uplifted the
sea floor, thereby creating a large, devastating tsunami.
(square yard). In some areas, they occur in even
only 3 to 6 meters (10 to 20 feet), and unfortu-
nately, many people did not take immediate ac-
caused few fatalities
and did minimal damage due largely to Japan’s debris. The tsunami debris is being monitored as
greater abundance (Figure 4.17b), resembling a scat-
tion out of a belief that Japan’s extensive network
(c)
of tsunami walls would protect them. Within the
strict building codes, thorough earthquake prep- it slowly spreads out and moves across the Pacific
aration, and advance warning systems. However, Ocean, transported by currents in the North
tered field of baseball-sized nodules. The formation
next few minutes, JMA reissued its warning for a the tsunami destroyed many small towns and Pacific Subtropical Gyre. Although some of the
10-meter (33-foot) tsunami, but many people did villages, killed 19,508 people, and initially dis-
of manganese nodules requires extremely low rates of lithogenous or biogenous
not receive the updated warning because of the placed nearly half a million people; nearly two
debris will sink, disperse, or biodegrade with time,
the wreckage may impact Hawaiian coral reefs.
Figure 4.17 Manganese nodules. (a) Manganese nodules,
input so that the nodules are not buried.
destruction of the regional power supply system. years later, thousands were still living in tempo- Along the U.S. West Coast, a derelict Japanese including some that are cut in half. (b) Close-up of a sliced
About 20 minutes after the earthquake rary shelters such as high school gymnasiums. fishing vessel and other tsunami debris has al-
manganese nodule, revealing its central nucleation object and
The major components of these nodules are manganese dioxide (around 30%
began, the tsunami swept onto the coastline of The tsunami also disrupted the power supply ready arrived, and more is expected during 2013.
northeastern Japan, where most fishing villages needed to maintain water circulation for
layered internal structure. (c) An abundance of manganese
by weight) and iron oxide (around 20%). The element manganese is important for
and towns were built at the ends of long, nar-
row bays because these bays offer protection
cooling the reactors at the Fukushima
Daiichi nuclear power plant. Three reac-
nodules on a portion of the deep South Pacific Ocean floor
making high-strength steel alloys. Other accessory metals present in manganese
from wind waves. However, these long narrow
bays amplified the height of the tsunami. The
tors exploded, releasing radioactivity
that continues to plague central Japan. about 4 meters“Students
The popular Sometimes
(13 feet) across.
nodules include copper (used in electrical wiring, in pipes, and to make brass and
initial surge of the tsunami reached heights of
about 15 meters (49 feet) and easily overtopped
Radioactivity was also released into the
ocean, and studies are now under way to Ask” feature answers often-entertaining
bronze), nickel (used to make stainless steel), and cobalt (used as an alloy with iron
harbor-protecting tsunami walls and coastal mar-
gins (Figure 8B), penetrating as far as 10 kilome-
determine its effect on marine life.
The destructive power of the tsunami questions posed by real students.
to make strong magnets and steel tools). Although the concentration of these acces-
ters (6 miles) inland. In one location, the tsunami
reached a record height of 40 meters (131 feet)
also generated a huge amount of float-
ing debris, including boats, cars, building
sory metals is usually less than 1%, they can exceed 2% by weight, which may make
because of amplification by offshore topography. parts, household items, and even entire
The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center, with houses. Japanese authorities estimate that
them attractive exploration targets in the future.
StudEntS SoMEtiMES ASk . . .
its network of buoys that had been greatly ex- the tsunami released 1.4 million metric Figure 8B the 2011 tsunami surges over a protective

The origin of manganese nodules has puzzled oceanographers since manga-

panded since the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, tons (1.5 million short tons) of floating seawall in Miyako, northeastern Japan.

nese nodules were first discovered in 1872 during the voyage of HMS Challenger.9 If
manganese nodules are truly hydrogenous and precipitate from seawater, then how
can they have such high concentrations of manganese (which occurs in seawater at
I’ve been to Hawaii
and seen a black
N o. Many active volcanoes in
the world have black sand
beaches that are created when
sand beach, which
concentrations often too small to measure accurately)? Furthermore, why are the
M08_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C08.indd 259 23/08/12 10:49 AM
waves break apart dark-colored
forms when lava
nodules on top of ocean floor sediment and not buried by the constant rain of sedi- flows into the ocean
volcanic rock. The material
mentary particles? and is broken up by
that produces the black sand is
Unfortunately, nobody has definitive answers to these questions. Perhaps waves. Is the black
derived from a continent or an
manganese nodules are created by one of the slowest chemical reactions sand hydrogenous
island, so it is considered lithog-
known—on average, they grow at a rate of about 5 millimeters (0.2 inch) per sediment?
enous sediment. Even though
million years. Recent research suggests that the formation of manganese nodules molten lava sometimes flows
into the ocean, the resulting black sand could never be con-
sidered hydrogenous sediment because the lava was never
dissolved in water.
9For more information about the accomplishments of the Challenger expedition, see Web Diving Deeper 5.2.

M04_TRUJ4050_11_SE_C04.indd 115 8/9/12 3:09 AM

The MasteringOceanography™ platform delivers engaging, dynamic learning opportunities—focused on course
objectives and responsive to each student’s progress—that are proven to help students absorb course material
and understand difficult concepts. With a easy-to-use interface, MasteringOceanography provides a wide variety
of activities and assessments, an interactive gradebook, powerful diagnostics, and complete customization
capabilities, as well as instructor and student resources.

Help students visualize oceanographic processes

Geoscience Animations illuminate the
most difficult-to-visualize topics from
across the physical geosciences, including
the field of oceanography, and more. the
animation activities include audio narration,
a text transcript, and assignable assessment
questions and specific wrong-answer feedback.

Encounter Activities provide rich, interactive

explorations of oceanography concepts using the
dynamic features of Google Earth™ to visualize
and explore Earth and its oceans. All explorations
include corresponding Google Earth KMZ media
files, and questions include hints and specific
wrong-answer feedback to help coach students
towards mastery of the concepts.
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
mun jalkani halusta vapisi
taas astua Saksan pintaa.

Yöt unetta huokailin; mieli mun

oli vanha rouva se vielä
Dammthorin varrelta tavata,
sisar Lottekin lähell' on siellä.

Jalo vanha herra se myös, jok' on

mua torunut aina ja mulle
tuki aimo ain' ollut, hän myöskin syy
oli monelle huokailulle.

Halas korvani "tyhmän junkkarin"

taas kuulla ärähtäväisen
hänen suustaan — soittona kauneinna
mun rintaani kaiku jäi sen.

Sai mieleeni sauhut siniset

savupiipuista Saksan kyökkein,
Ali-Saksin sai satakielet, sai
polut varjomat vanhain pyökkein.

Halu haikeat piinapaikatkin

tuli nähdä, miss' ensimäisen
ma kannoin kärsimysristini,
okakruununi repiväisen.

Halu itkeä, miss' olin itkenyt

surun kyynelet katkerimman —
isänmaan-rakkaudeksi ne kai
tuon sanovat hassun vimman.
 Hevin siit' en haasta ma; pohjaltaan
se on tauti vaan, ja ma vieron
eess' yleisön näytellä haavojain
kuin mikä kulkija mieron,

kuin nuo kovan onnen koturit, jotka kiitosta kilvan kosii,

isänmaalliset markkinasaksat nuo, jotka vannoo ja huutaa ja
hosii.

Kapikerjurit julkeat, almuja

he juoksevat — penni nakkaa
populariteettia Menzelin
ja Menzelin svaabien vakkaani

Oi Jumalatar, minun tänään näät

näin heltyvän herkimmälleen;
olen hieman sairas, mut terveeksi
pian itseni hoidan jälleen.

Niin, sairas olen, ja sieluain hyvin virvoittais, jos laittaa

teevettä kupposen viitsisit — seass' ei tee rommi haittaa!"
XXV LUKU.

Mulle teetä joudutti Jumalatar, kaas sekaan rommia tilkan,

mut itse ilman teetä joi hän suuhunsa rommin silkan.

Mun nojasi vasten poveain

hänen päänsä — mun olkapääni
vähän rutisti linnakruunua —
hän haasteli hellänä ääni:

"Peloll' usein aattelin, siell' että sä

Pariisissa siveettömässä
kerä rivojen ranskalaisten niin
omin päin olet elämässä.

Menet minne vaan, eikä rinnallas

edes uskollista siellä
ole saksalaista kustantajaa,
joka kaitsis ja ohjais tiellä.

Ja siell' on niin kova kiusaus,

sylfiidejä paljon kärkkyy
epätervehiä — ei tiedäkään,
kun mielen rauha jo järkkyy.
 Jätä matkas ja tänne jää, tääll' on
toki siveys ja tapa hyvä;
on täällä meilläkin tarjona
moni riemu hiljainen, syvä.

Jää tänne, tääll' entistä paremmin

nyt käydä asias alkaa;
me edistymme — sen itsekin
olet huomannut — täyttä jalkaa.

Jo sensuurikin on lievennyt,
jo Hoffmann vanheten lauhtuu,
sun matkakuvias kohtaan jo
häitä nuoruudenraivo rauhtuu.

Sun itseskin ikä lauhduttaa,

mukaannut moneen jo kohtaan,
ja entisyyskin silmissäs
kai kauniimmalta jo hohtaa.

Tila vanha niin kurjaksi kuvatakin,

se on liikaa; orjuuden paulan,
kuin muinen Roomassa, kirvoittaa
voi aina leikkuulla kaulan.

Oli kansalla ajatusvapaus,

sen suurilla joukoilla, vainoon
ne harvan harvat joutui vaan,
jotk' antoi kirjoja painoon.

Meill' oikeutta koskaan polkenut

ei laiton mielivalta,
ei tuomiott' otettu virkaa pois
demagogilta pahimmalta.

Niin kurjasti koskaan ollut ei

ajan kaikissa ahdingoissa —
sano, nälkään kuollut konsanaan
kuka Saksan on vankiloissa?

Moni kukoisti- uskon ja alttiuden

esimerkki ihana muinen;
nyt epäily, nyt kieltäminen
vain vallall' on alituinen.

Nyt käytännöllinen vapaus tää

tuo ihanteelle hukan,
joka poveemme piili, — niin puhtaana, ah,
kuin unelma liljankukan!

Alas kauniin runoutemmekin

käy tähti jo tästä puoleen;
kera muitten murjaani-kuningas
myös Freiligrathin kuolee.

Pojanpoikamme kyllin ne syö ja juo,

mut ei hiljaista hengen rauhaa
ole sulattaa — menoss' idylli on,
melukappale palkeille pauhaa.

Jospa vaieta voisit, niin kohtalon

sulle kirjan ma auki loisin,
lumokuvastimessani nähdä sun
ajan vastaisen vaiheet soisin.
 Sulle näyttäisin, mitä nähnyt ei
ole inehmo kuolevainen:
isänmaas tulevaisuuden — mut ah,
vait olla et voi sa vainen!"

Ma innolla huusin: "Oi Jumalatar,

kovin hauska ois katsoa tuota,
suo nähdä mun tuleva Saksanmaa —
olen mies, vait'olooni luota!

Valan sulle vannon, min tahdot vaan,

joka takeen mult' olet saava
vait'oloni ehdottomuudesta —
miten vannon? vain sano kaava!"

Hän mulle vastasi: "Vala tee

se, jonk' isä Abraham vaatei
Eleasarilta, kun matkaa tää
Haranin maalle laatei.

Ylös vaatteeni nosta ja kätesi

mun kupeeni alle paina,
puheessa ja kirjoituksessa vait
sa vanno ollasi aina!"

Pyhä tuokio! Oli kuin henki ois

ajan menneen juhlaisin kammoin
liki liikkunut, kun valan vannoin ma,
niinkuin esivanhemmat ammoin.

Ylös vaatteen nostin, ja käteni

Jumalattaren kupeen alla, —
puheessa ja kirjoituksessa
ma vannoin vaiti olla.
XXVI LUKU.

Jumalattaren posket ne punoitti niin ma luulen, tukkahan tuli

vähän hälle rommi — niin äänensä surumieliseksi se suli:

"Käyn vanhaksi. Syntynyt päivänä

olen Hampurin perustannan.
Oli emoni turskakuningatar
tääll' äärellä Elben rannan.

Isä valtias mahtava, nimeltään

Karolus Magnus, ja viisas,
itse Preussin Fredrik Suurellekin
hän mielevyydessä piisas.

On Aacheniss' istuin, jolla hän

oli kruunauspäivänä; — toinen,
joss' yöllä hän istui, se perintö
oli emoni erikoinen.

Emo mulle jätti sen — huomaamaton,

vähännäyttävä huonekalu!
Mut kaikkiin Rothschildin kultiin ei
sitä myödä mull' olis halu.
 Nojatuolin nurkassa tuolla näät
ikivanhan jo, isoin lovin
selysnahka nauraa, on toppaus
koinreikiin tullut kovin.

Mut mennös ja siirtäös sivuhun

vaan tyynynen tuolilta tuolta,
näet pyöreän aukon ja kattilan
sen aukon alapuolta.

Se on taikakattila, jossa käy

salaperäiset voimat ja väet,
ja pääs jos aukkohon pistät vaan,
niin vastaisuuden sa näet.

Siell' etees Saksan vastaisuus

kuin pilvihaamuina piirtyy;
älä säiky vaan, jos sieramiis
miasmeja siivosta siirtyy!"

Omituinen nauru ol' äänessään, mut säikähtänyt ma tuost'

en, ma tuolin aukkohon ankaraan heti joudutin päätäni
juosten.

Mitä silmäni näki, sit' ilmaise en, mua vannottu valani estää,
lupa tuskin on sanoa, mitä sai, oi taivas! nenäni kestää! —- —
— Mua vieläkin inhojen, kirottuin esihajujen etova viima se
viiltää, oli kuin lemunnut ois mätä kaali ja juhti ja liima.

Voi taivas, katkua kauheaa,

mi sieltä nousi; ol' ihan
kuin kuoppia kuudenneljättä
ois luotu lantapihan. — —

Hyvän yhteisen valiokunnass' on

Saint-Just tosin sanonut joskus:
Ei suuren tautimme lääkkeeksi
sovi ruusuöljy ja moskus —

vaan vastaisuutemme tuoksu tuo

meni kaikesta etunenään,
mit' on nenäni ikinä aavistanut —
sit' en sietää voinut ma enään — —

ma tainnuin, ja silmät kun avasin taas,

yhä viel' olin vierustalla
Jumalattaren, hänen povellaan
lepäs pääni mun avaralla.

Hänen säihkyi silmänsä, hehkui suu,

väris sieramet, laulajan kauloi
bakkanttisesti hän parmailleen
ja vimmaista virttä lauloi:

"On kuningas Thulessa, jolla on

pikar' ihana, ilman vertaa,
kun siitä hän juo, niin silmänsä
käy sumeiksi samalla kertaa.

Ajatuksia päähänsä pälkähtää,

joit' ei olis arvannutkaan,
mies silloin ois hän tuomitsemaan
sinut, lapsi parka, putkaan.
 Varo tuota Thulen valitsijaa;
sitä santarmi-, poliisi-Spartaa,
koko historiallisen koulun saat
sa kumppanuutta karttaa.

Jää tänne luokseni Hampuriin,

sua lemmin, me herkutelemme
nykyhetken viinein ja osterein,
tulevaisuutt' aattele emme.

Kansi umpeen! Riemumme sekahan

haju ilkeä ei saa haista —
sua lemmin, kuin lempinyt nainen lie
runoniekkaa saksalaista!

Sua suutelen ma ja tunnen kuin

minut henkesi haltioittaa;
mun sielussani juopumus
iki-ihana vallan voittaa.

On kuin sois kadulta korvaani

yövahtien laulut loitot —
oi suloinen kumppali, kuuletko,
hymeneat soi, hääsoitot!

Häähuovit hulmuvin soihtuineen

jo saapuvat orhein reiluin,
ja soihtutanssinsa taidokkaan
he tanssivat hyppien, heiluin.

Jo korkeanviisas senaatti,
ylivanhimmat vakaat jo tiell' on!
Pormestari tuolla yskähtelee,
puhe hänellä pitää miel' on.

Lähivaltain nimessä esittämään

tuoll' loistavin juhlavaattein
jo onnittelunsa ehdolliset
jono joutuu diplomaattein.

Rabbiinien, pappien hengelliset

myös saapuu lähetystöt —
vaan ah, tuoll' astuu Hoffmannkin,
näen sensorisakset pystöt!

Ne kalisee hänen kädessään — tuo villitty, miesi vimman,

käy päin sua — viiltää lihaas — ah, vei paikan parahimman!"
XXVII LUKU.

Mitä vielä muuta tapahtui sinä ihmeyönä, sen toiste ma teille

kerron, kun kerkeää kesäpäiväin lämmin loiste.

Suku vanha teeskelyn katoo tuo

maan päältä jo, kiitos taivaan!
Sen hauta perii, se vaipuu jo
oman valheruttonsa vaivaan.

Uus polvi nousee, mi maalit pois

luo poskilta, povista saastan,
halut orjan pois, ilot orjan pois —
sen kuulla kaikki ma haastan.

Jo nuoriso nousee, jok' ymmärtää

mi on laulajan ylpeys jalo,
syke sydämen laaja ja lämpöinen,
hänen mielensä päivänpalo.

Kuin tuli, kuin valkeus väkevä

mun lempi rinnassa elää;
sulotarten kirkkainten suortuvat
mun soittoni kielinä helää —
 saman soiton, millä mun isäni,
jalo muistossa, soitteli muinen,
Aristophanes, tuo suosikki
runotarten rohkeasuinen;

mill' ikuistettu Peisthétairos on tuo, joka Basileian sai

omakseen, hänen kanssansa lens ilmoihin, tietä leijan.

Luvun edellisen olen sepittänyt

ma hieman samaan malliin
kuin "Lintujen" loppu, se draama kai
paras lienee taattoni kalliin.

Hyvät myös on "Sammakot." Berliinin

nyt palkeill' on parhaillansa
sama näytelmä saksaksi huvina
kuninkaallisen katsojansa.

Sitä kuningas suosii. Hyvää se

antiikkista aistia tietää;
edesmennehest' oli hauskempaa
uusaikainen kurnutus sietää.

Sitä kuningas suosii. Mut tekijää,

jos ei ois ehtinyt kuolla,
oman itsensä neuvoisin pitämään
ma Preussin ulkopuolla.

Tuon oikean Aristophaneen

peris siellä huutava hukka;
santarmikuorojen saatossa
pian käydä sais miesrukka.
 Pian sijasta liehinän pilkata
sais rahvaan rakit ja piskat;
pian pistäis tyrmähän jalon tuon
poliisit pölkkyniskat.

Oi kuningas, sen hyvän neuvon suon

ma sulle: sa kunnioita
runoniekkoja kuolleita, kuolleiksi kun
vaan eläviä et koita!

Runoniekkaa äl' ärsytä elävää —

on heillä liekit ja miekat,
julmemmat kuin tuli Juppiterin,
jonka senkin loi runoniekat.

Joka jumala loukkaa sa, vanha ja uus,

koko Olympo herjalla holvaa,
ja Jehova korkein kukkuran pääks —
runoniekkaa vain älä solvaa!

Kovin kyllä jumalat kostavat

pahat työt tosin ihmiselle,
ja helvetin tulessa paistujan
on kyllä hiki ja helle —

mut on pyhiä, joidenka rukous tulipätsistä syntisen päästää;

rovot kirkolle, sielumessut, ne myös meriitin melkoisen
säästää.

Ja viimeisnä päivänä Kristus saa

ja helvetin portit suistaa;
 tosin tuomari tuima hän lie, vaan kai
moni lurjuskin läpi luistaa.

Mut on hornia, joitten poltosta pois

ei tuomitun toivoa lainkaan;
ei auta rukous, armahdus
ei maailman-vapahtajainkaan.

Sa Danten helvetin tunnetko,

nuo hirveät kolmisoinnut?
Ei päästä luoja, jos laulaja
kenen sinne on kammitsoinut —

ei päästä luoja, ei lunastaja tuon liekin laulavan alta! Varo,

sinne ettei tuomitse sua laulun kostajavalta!

Selityksiä.

Oltuaan kolmattatoista vuotta puolipakollisessa maanpaossaan

Pariisissa, kävi Heinrich Heine lopulla vuotta 1843 ensikerran jälleen
kotimaassaan; matka tapahtui Brüsselin, Amsterdamin ja Bremenin
kautta Hampuriin, missä hän viipyi 30 p:stä lokak. 7 p:ään joulukuuta
1843; palausmatka Pariisiin kävi Hannoverin, Bückeburgin, Kölnin ja
Aachenin kautta. Talvisessa tarinassa kuvataan runoilijan matka
Hampuriin tapahtuvaksi päinvastaisesti viimemainittujen kaupunkien
kautta. Niistä runsaista vaikutelmista, joita tämä kotimaassa-käynti
jätti hänen mieleensä, syntyi edellä oleva runoelma. Sen
sepittämiseen Heine ryhtyi heti Pariisiin palattuaan, tammikuussa
1844. Jo 20 p. helmikuuta hän ilmoittaa kustantajalle runoelmansa
olevan valmiin. Viimeinen loppu puuttui vain, ja ankara silmäkipu esti
runoilijaa viikkomääriä sitä sepittämästä. 17 p. huhtikuuta hän lähetti
kustantajalle valmiin käsikirjoituksen. Sen painattaminen kohtasi
kuitenkin, kuten ymmärrettävää, vastuksia sensuuriviranomaisten
taholta, ja huolestuneena runoelman kohtalosta Heine matkusti
lopulla heinäkuuta 1844 toistamiseen Hampuriin, jossa hän sitten
itse valvoi "Uusien runoelmainsa" painatusta, joihin Talvinen tarina
liittyi loppuosana, ja syyskuussa nämä runoelmat vihdoin tulivat
julkisuuteen. Yhtaikaa ilmestyvä Talvisen tarinan erikoispainos oli
vielä jätettävä valvovain asianomaisten erikoisen huolenpidon
alaiseksi, ja uusia toisintoja ja karsintoja oli tuloksena tästä
korkeammasta kritiikistä.

I LUKU.

Viittaus tuttuun tarinaan Herakleen painista Antaios jättiläisen

kanssa, joka langetessaan aina sai uusia voimia äidiltänsä, maalta.

II LUKU.

Aug. Friedr. Hoffmann (tunnettu nimellä Hoffmann von

Fallersleben, 1798—1874) runoilija sekä kielen- ja
kirjallisuudentutkija, oli syksyllä 1841 julkaissut runokokoelmansa,
'Unpolitische Lieder' (Epävaltiollisia lauluja); runojen vapaa- ja
edistysmielinen suunta aiheutti Hoffmannin erottamisen
professorinvirasta Breslaun yliopistossa ja hänen karkoittamisensa
useista kaupungeista.

Preussin alotteesta perustettu Saksan tulliliitto kehittyi varsinkin

30-luvulla ja 40-luvun alkuvuosina v. vuosisadalla.

III LUKU.
 Karl Hartmann Mayer (1786-1870), unohduksiin jäänyt
svaabilaisen koulun runoilija, joka osotti jonkunmoista kykyä pienissä
luonnonmaalauksissa.

Karl Theodor Körner (1791-1813). Hänen tulinen, isänmaallinen

lyriikkansa, kokoelma 'Leier und Schwert' (Kannel ja miekka), ja
sankarikuolemansa isänmaan vapautustaistelussa on taannut
hänelle kansansa ihailevan muiston. Tässä tarkoitettu kohta on eräs
säe laulusta "Lied der Schwarzen Jäger".

V. 1840 otettiin kypäri käytäntöön Preussin sotaväessä.

Aug. v. Kotzebuen näytelmä "Johanna von Montfaucon",

romantillinen kuvaus 14:nneltä vuosisadalta 5 näytöksessä,
Leipzigissä 1800.

Friedrich de Ia Motte-Fouqué (17771843), aikoinaan saksalaisen

yleisön muotirunoilija, varsinkin lemmenmaireiden ritariromaaniensa
vuoksi; hänen tuotteistaan on säilynyt vielä luettuna satu 'Undine'.

Ludwig Uhland (1787-1862), huomattavin svaabilaisista

runoilijoista; hänen raikas ja koruton perisaksalainen lyriikkansa
kuuluu vieläkin hänen kansansa lempilukemistoon.

Johann Ludwig Tieck (1773—1853), romantikko samoin kuin

edellisetkin, saksalaisen novellin luoja.

Preussin kuningas Fredrik Vilhelm IV oli tunnettu erinomaisena

sukkeluuksien laskijana.

IV LUKU.
 Jakob von Hoogstraaten, Kölnin dominikaanien priori, kirjoitti 1576
kiivaan häväistyskirjoituksen nimeltä "Handspiegel" (Käsipeili)
kuuluisaa humanistia Reuchlinia (1455—1522) vastaan, kun tämä oli
häneltä pyydetyssä lausunnossa puoltanut juutalaisten uskonnollisia
kirjoja, joita Kölnin dominikaanit, eräs kastettu juutalainen,
Pfefferkorn, etupäässä, vaativat poltettaviksi, syyttäen häntä lahjain
otosta, väärentämisestä ja tietämättömyydestä. Reuchlin torjui
syytökset "Silmäpeili" nimisessä etevässä puolustuskirjoituksessa.
Nyt seurasi pitkällinen kiivas käräjöiminen, jonka paavi vihdoin
ratkaisi määräämällä asian jätettäväksi sikseen ja kölniläiset
maksamaan riitakulungit. — Reuchlinin ympärille kokoontuneiden
miesten piirissä syntyivät nuo n.s. "hämäräin miesten kirjeet"
(epistolae virorum obscurorum), joiden pääsepittäjä oli humanisti
Crotus Rubianus; osa teosta on Ulrik von Huttenin (1488—1523)
kirjoittama. Teos oli loistava satiiri kerjäläismunkeista, joissa heidän
tietämättömyyttään ja paheitaan oli niin taitavasti ivattu, että
dominikaanit itse alussa kirjaa levittivät.

Wolfgang Menzel (1798—1873), tunnettu etupäässä teoksestaan

'Die deutsche Litteratur' (1827), jossa hän hyökkäsi tuimasti Goethen
kimppuun. Muutamia vuosia myöhemmin hän nousi n.s. nuorta
Saksaa vastaan, ja hänen syytöskirjoituksiensa johdosta julisti
Saksan liittoneuvosto 1835 Heinen, Gutzkowin y.m. nuorsaksalaisten
teokset kielletyksi kirjallisuudeksi.

Kölnin tuomiokirkon, goottilaisen rakennustyylin jaloimman

muistomerkin, rakentaminen alotettiin 1248 ja saatettiin päätökseen
1880.

Franz Liszt (1811 -1886), kuuluisa unkarilainen soittotaiteilija ja

säveltäjä. — "Lahjakas kuningas" tarkoittaa Baijerin kuningasta
Ludvig II:sta, joka oli suuri taiteiden ja tieteiden suojelija ja itsekin
runoili. Hän tuli loppuiällään mielisairaaksi ja hukuttautui 1886
Starnbergin järveen.

Münsterissä olevan Lambertin kirkon tornin eteläkupeella on

kolme rautahäkkiä, joihin v. 1536 tulisilla pihdeillä kuoliaaksi
kidutettujen uudestikastajapäällikköjen Joh. von Leydenin,
Knipperdollingin ja Krechtingin ruumiit oli ripustettu.

V LUKU.

Satamavalli, Hafenschanze, kävelypaikka Reinin varrella Kölnissä.

Biberich eli Bibrich, kaupunki Reinin varrella vastapäätä Mainzia.

Hessen-Darmstadtin hallituksen toimesta upotti yöllä vasten 1 p.
maalisk. 1841 103 kivillä lastattua Neckarilaisalusta lastinsa
Biberichin puolelle jokea varjellakseen Mainzin kauppakilpailusta.

Nikolaus Becker (1809-1885) sepitti 1840 kuuluisan Rein-laulun

"Sie sollen ihn nicht haben, den freien deutschen Rhein", kun
ranskalainen sotapuolue uhitteli valloittaa Reinin vasemman rannan.

Alfred de Musset (1810-1857), etevä ranskalainen runoilija ja

kirjailija, vastasi Beckerin lauluun runoelmalla, joka alkaa sanoilla:
"Nous l'avons eu votre Rhin allemand".

Ernst Wilhelm Hengstenberg (1802-1869), ankarasti oikeaoppinen

luterilainen teologi, Berlinin professori, jolla oli suuri vaikutus
Preussin kirkolliseen elämään.

Niccolò Paganini (1782-1840), maailmankuulu italialainen

viulutaiteilija, jonka ihmeellisestä taidosta on monenmoisia tarinoita.