Murphy Moose

Design by
Alison North
KornflakeStew
Amigurumi Pattern
Written in English using American crochet terms
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Please note this pattern is for PERSONAL use only. You may make as many items as
you wish for yourself or as gifts. You may sell any items you produce from this pattern
but please link back or give credit to me as the designer. Please do NOT share,
reproduce or sell this pattern in part or as a whole. Please do not use any pictures.
Please respect my rights as a designer.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me by email

alison693@msn.com Or send me a message at my Etsy shop, Thank you :)

Murphy Moose will be approx. 18 inches tall from head to toe when using the
recommended yarn and hook. Feel free to experiment with different yarns and hook
sizes but please be aware this will change His size.

Skill Level ***

***PLEASE READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN***
Stitches and techniques used.

Slip stitch
Insert hook in next st, yo and draw through all loops.

Single crochet
Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, draw through both loops
on hook.

Half Double crochet

Yarn over, insert your hook under the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch ( 3
loops on your hook) yarn over again and pull through all 3 loops.

Single crochet Invisible decrease [ sc- dec] Please note that when making the invisible
decrease you will be working in the front loops only of your two stitches.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over and pull up yarn as
you would in a traditional decrease. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch.
You will need to turn the tip of your crochet hook downward to do this. Then swing your
crochet hook up, and under the front loop of the 2nd stitch. You now have 3 loops on your
hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on your crochet hook, leaving 2
loops on your hook. Then yarn over again and pull yarn through the last 2 loops
on your crochet hook.

Magic adjustable ring (magic circle)

First make a loop with your yarn leaving 3" long tail. Insert hook in centre of loop made, yo
and draw up loop. YO, pull through to make your first chain. (Do not count this as your first sc)
Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc
for your first round. For example, if the pattern calls for 6 scs, then sc 6 times into
the ring. (Insert hook into the center of the ring and draw up loop, YO and draw through
both loops.) When you're finished, pull the tail to close the ring.

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YOU WILL NEED ABBREVIATIONS

3mm crochet hook Sc – single crochet

5mm crochet hook hdc- half double crochet

2 balls of Scheepjes soft fun in Inc – increase

cream: 2622 (main colour)
Sc-inc – single crochet increase
1 ball Drops alpaca silk in blue for
Sc-dec – single crochet invisible
the dungarees. ( you can use any
decrease
D.K weight yarn)
St – stitch
Tiny amount of light pink yarn
(cheeks) Ch – chain
9mm safety eyes Rep – repeat
Toy stuffing Sl st – slip stitch
Stitch marker (scrap of yarn) Yo – yarn over

Always move your stitch marker up at the end of each row as you will be working in
continuous rounds.

Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of each row.

Use your 3mm crochet hook throughout, you will only need the 5mm hook to make the
dungarees.

HEAD (using main colour)

You will be starting at the mouth, working around the foundation chain.

Round 1. Ch 15, sc-inc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in

each of the next 12 ch, sc x 4 in the last ch, turning to
work up the other side of the ch. Sc in the next 12 ch, sc-
inc in the last ch. Place marker (32)

Round 2. Sc-inc in the first st, sc x 14, sc-inc x 2, sc x 14,

sc-inc in the last st (36)

Round 3. [ sc x 5, inc ] rep (42)

Rounds 4-9. Sc in each st around (42)

Round 10. [ sc x 12, sc-dec ] rep (39)

Rounds 11-12. Sc in each st around (39)

Round 13. [ sc x 11, sc-dec ] rep (36)

Rounds 14-15. Sc in each st around (36)

Round 16. [ sc x 10, sc-dec ] rep (33)

Rounds 17-18. Sc in each st around (33)

Round 19. [ sc x 9, sc-dec ] rep (30)

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Rounds 20-21. Sc in each st around (30)

Round 22. [ sc x 8, sc-dec ] rep (27)

Rounds 23-24. Sc in each st around (27)

Place safety eyes now between rows 10-11, approx. 11 stitches apart. Making sure that when
the head is flattened the eyes will be in the right place (see picture below)

Begin to stuff, keep adding stuffing as you continue to decrease to close the head.

Round 25. [ sc x 7, sc-dec ] rep (24)

Round 26. [ sc x 2, sc-dec ] rep (18)

Round 27. [ sc x 1,sc-dec ] rep (12)

Round 28. [ sc-dec ] rep (6)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave an extra long tail. Weave
through the front loops of the last 6 st and pull tight to close the hole.

Keeping the tail threaded on your needle take it through the head to
a stitch close to the outer edge of an eye. Put it back in just above
the eye to make the eye lids. Put 3 stitches across the top
of each eye and then take the tail back through the head
to the back and make a double knot to secure. Hide the
tail inside the head and cut the remainder of the yarn.

EARS X2

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and

place marker. (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep (12)

Rounds 3-9. Sc in each st around (12)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave a long tail. Pinch the
bottom of the ear together and sew through to the other
side to keep them pinched together. (see picture below)

Sew the ears in place.

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ANTLERS X2

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6)

Round 2. [ sc x 1, sc-inc ] rep (9)

Rounds 3-6. Sc in each st around (9)

Remove marker

Round 7. Ch 8, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each of the next 6 ch and putting a sc
into the same st the ch started. Sc around the next 9 st and back along the foundation ch,
place marker (24)

Round 8. Sc-inc in the first st, sc around x 22, sc-inc in the last st (26)

Round 9. Sc in each st around (26)

Round 10. Sc in each of next 5 st, join to the 4th st back from your marker with a sc, sc in each of the
next 4 st. Remove marker

Round 11. Sc around the next 9 st, leave an extra long tail. Flatten the end and sew together. (see
next picture) Stuff the antler then sew along the flat under part to close. Use your needle to take the
tail back through the antler and keep it attached as this is what you will use to sew the antler to the
head. (see the 3rd picture below)

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2ND ANTLER BUMP

Round 1. 8sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop (8)

Rounds 2-5. Sc in each st around (8)

Flatten and sc through both sets of stitches to close putting 2 sc into the last set. Leave a long
tail and sew the ‘bump’ to the top of the main antler.

Sew the antlers to the top of the head at an angle.

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ROSY CHEEKS X2 (using light pink yarn and darker pink for sewing)

10 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and leave a long tail. Place the cheek where you’d like it to
be then using your tapestry needle, take the tail of yarn through the head and leave it hanging out of
the back. This should keep the cheek in place while you sew around it with a darker pink to secure it
to the face. Take the darker pink thread in from the back of the head and bring it out just next to the
cheek, leave a tail hanging out at the back of the head, sew obvious decorative stitches around the
cheek then take the tail back through to the same position that the tail is coming from, make a
double knot to secure. When both cheeks are sewn in place knot the ends together at the back of
the head and hide the tails inside the head to finish off.

LEGS X2

You will need to make 2 legs but don’t fasten off on the second leg as you will be joining them and
continuing on to make the body.

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep (12)

Round 3. [ sc x 1, sc-inc ] rep (18)

Rounds 4-30. Sc in each st around (18)

Finish off on the first leg and leave a long tail.

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Round 31. At the end of the 2nd leg ch 6, sc into the last st of 1st leg to join. Sc around the 1st leg and
into each of the ch 6, continue on and sc into each st of the 2nd leg and up the other side of the ch 6,
place marker (48)

Round 32-42. Sc in each st around (48)

Begin to stuff now, start by stuffing the legs and a little of the body and continue adding stuffing as
you decrease the body.

Round 43. [ sc x 14 sc-dec ] rep (45)

Rounds 44-45. Sc in each st around (45)

Round 46. [ sc x 13, sc-dec ] rep (42)

Rounds 47-48. Sc in each st around (42)

Round 49. Sc x 12, sc-dec ] rep (39)

Rounds 50-51. Sc in each st around (39)

Round 52. [ sc x 11, sc-dec ] rep (36)

Rounds 53-54. Sc in each st around (36)

Round 55. [ sc x 10, sc-dec ] rep (33)

Rounds 56-57. Sc in each st around (33)

Round 58. [ sc x 9, sc-dec] rep (30)

Round 59-60. Sc in each st around (30)

Round 61. [ sc x 8, sc-dec ] rep (27)

Rounds 62-63. Sc in each st around (27)

Round 64. [ sc x 7, sc-dec ] rep (24)

Rounds 65-66. Sc in each st around (24)

Round 67. [ sc x 6, sc-dec ] rep (21)

Rounds 68-69. Sc in each st around (21)

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Round 70. [ sc x 5 sc-dec ] rep (18)

Rounds 71-72. Sc in each st around (18)

Round 73. [ sc x 4, sc-dec ] rep (15)

Rounds 74-75. Sc in each st around (15)

Sc into the next 3 st (or however many to get you to the edge of the neck when flattened) Flatten
and sc through both sets of stitches to close up the neck. Sew the neck to the head between rounds
18-19 of the head.

ARMS X2

Round 1. 10 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop (10)

Rounds 2-33. Sc in each st around (10)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave a long tail

and sew the arms to the sides of the body.

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DUNGAREES (using alpaca or any d.k/light worsted yarn)

Using your 5mm hook

Round 1. Ch 30, join to the 1st ch with a sl st to

form a ring, ch 1

Round 2. Hdc into the same st as the ch 1, and in

each ch around (30)

Join to the 1st hdc with a sl st, ch 1 ***do this at

the end of every round from now on***

**Always hdc into the same st as the ch 1 at the

beginning of each round**

Round 3. Hdc in each st around (30)

Round 4. [ hdc x 9, hdc-inc ] rep (33)

Round 5. hdc in each st around (33)

Round 6. [ hdc x 10, hdc-inc ] rep (36)

Round 7. Hdc in each st around (36)

Round 8. [ Hdc x 11, hdc-inc ] rep (39)

Round 9. Hdc in each st around (39)

Round 10. [ hdc x 12, hdc-inc ] rep (42)

Round 11. Hdc in each st around (42)

Round 12. [ hdc x 13, hdc-inc ] rep (45)

Round 13. Hdc in each st around (45)

Round 14. [ hdc x 14, hdc-inc ] rep (48)

Rounds 15-16. Hdc in each st around (48)

We will now make the legs

Round 17. Hdc in each of the next 24 st, join to the

1st st with a sl st (24)

Rounds 18-19. Hdc in each st around

Finish off.

2nd leg.

Leave a long beginning tail.

Join in yarn at the 1st unworked st from round 16

(would have been the 25th st) ch 1, hdc into the
same st and in each of the next 23 st, join to the 1st st of the round with a sl st (24)

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Rounds 2-3. Hdc in each st around.

Use the tail you left at the beginning of the round to sew the gap between the legs closed. Weave in
all ends.

STRAPS X2

Leave a beginning tail of a few inches before you make your slip knot.

Row 1. Ch 11, hdc into the 2nd ch and in each ch along, ch 1 turn (10)

Row 2. Hdc in each st along (10)

Finish off and leave a long tail.

Put the dungarees onto the moose, Thread the tail of the strap onto the needle and sew the strap to
the front of the dungarees. Use the other tail, thread it onto your needle and sew the other end of
the strap to the back of the dungarees. Secure and weave in the yarn tails. You will now be able to
take the dungarees on and off.

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I hope you enjoyed making Murphy moose!

Follow me on Instagram for my latest updates and sneak peeks into new
patterns @kornflake_stew
Please note this pattern is for PERSONAL use only. You may make as many items as you wish
for yourself or as gifts. You may sell any items you produce from this pattern (on a small scale)
but please link back or give credit to me as the designer. Please do NOT share, reproduce or
sell this pattern in part or as a whole. Please respect my rights as a designer.

2018 ©