You are on page 1of 54

Inspired by

Zelda Breath of the Wild

Crochet pattern by ElizettaCrafts


1. Instruments and materials
• 1.4 mm hook (recommended for the yarn below)
• Sewing needle, scissors, safety pins, sewing pins, colored marker pins
• Stuffing material
• Yarn - I am using the below types of yarn, 100% Cotton “Sport - 5ply | Fine”, but you can
use whichever brand/type you like. Keep in mind that you need to adapt the crochet hook
size to the yarn type you are using. I recommend the mercerized cotton for amigurumis.
o For Hestu’s body:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0404 - “sand” (lighter yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0402 - “reseda” (darker yarn)
o For the mask (leaf):
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0205 - “apfel” (green)
o For the crown:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0412 - “moos” (green)
o For the bag:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0162 - “kaffee” (brown)
o For the Maracas:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0424 - “kirsche” (red)
o For Hestu’s gift:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0249 - “gold” (gold)
• White, black, and dark red yarn for the Maracas embroidery

This toy is inspired by Hestu – character of Zelda Breath of the Wild video game, published by
Nintendo.
I am using 100% Cotton “Sport - 5ply | Fine” yarn, a 1.4 mm hook and following US crochet
terminology. For stuffing you can use polyester wadding or wool.
This pattern is for personal use only. Sharing information from this pattern is prohibited. If you
publish photos of the toys that are crocheted following this pattern, please mention the author
of the pattern or use hashtag #ElizettaCrafts. It would really make me happy to see your
creations.
If you get stuck or need more details, just contact me on Etsy, Instagram, or send me a direct e-
mail. I will be more than happy to help you with all the questions you may have.

2
2. Abbreviations – US Crochet terminology

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Sc in each Sc around single crochet in each of the stitches in a row
INC increase (2Sc into the same stitch)
DINC double increase (3Sc into the same stitch)
INVDEC invisible decrease (you insert the hook in the front loops only of the two stitches
you want to decrease, yarn over, pull through the 2 front loops you decrease, yarn
over and pull through the loops on the hook)
Sl St slip stitch
FLO Sl St DEC you insert the hook in the front loops only of the two stitches you want to
decrease, yarn over, pull through the 2 front loops you decrease and pull through
the loop on the hook
FLO front loops only
BLO back loops only
HDC half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through,
you have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through all three loops on the
hook)
DC double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, you
have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the hook,
you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through both loops
on the hook)
TR treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through,
you have four loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the
hook, you are left with three loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through first
two loops on the hook, you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again,
pull through both loops remaining on the hook)
Short bobble stitch instructions for this on the “Crown” section (video also available)

Tips
There is a chance that you will lose the beginning/end of the row; to avoid this, use a marker. It
can be a safety pin, clip, or thread of contrasting color.

3
3. Body
3.1 Legs
For Hestu’s body you will use 2 colors of yarn, a darker color, and a lighter color of your choosing.
The color codes I used can be found on page 2.

Start with the lighter yarn

First leg
1 row 6Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row BLO 12Sc around (12)
4 row [Sc, INC] x 6 (18)
5 - 6 rows Sc in each Sc around (18)
7 row 3Sc (mark the front loops only of these 3 stitches with a colored pen/marker,
marked in red in my Image 2), then continue crocheting 15Sc (18)
Fasten off, cut the yarn.

Image 1 Image 2 Image 3

Second leg
1 row 6Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row BLO 12Sc around (12)
4 row [Sc, INC] x 6 (18)

4
5 row Sc in each Sc around (18)
6 row 3Sc, Sc (mark this stitch with a marker, yellow in
my Image 4), 14Sc (18)
Now you will crochet the middle section that will connect the two
legs. Continue crocheting on the second leg:

• 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3) Image 4

• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)


• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain, Turn (3)
• Skip chain, 3Sc, Chain (mark the loop of this chain using a marker, orange in my Image 6),
Turn (3)

Image 5 Image 6

Take the first leg and connect it with the second leg by crocheting 3Sc. When crocheting these 3
stitches, Skip the chain, take the back loops only from the second leg (colored in blue in my Image
7) and the front loops only on the first leg (the ones you marked with a colored pen, red in my
case). Once you have connected the two legs continue crocheting on the body.

5
Image 7 Image 8 Image 9

3.2 Body
Continue crocheting in spiral (continuous rounds), with lighter yarn

1 row FLO Sc on the first leg (mark this stitch with a marker, green in my Image 10), 6Sc,
INC, 7Sc (you have now finished the stitches on the first leg), Sc on the marked
chain in the last row of the middle part (marked in orange in my Image 11, you
can now remove the marker), continue crocheting 12Sc in the transverse loops
from the middle part (I marked them with red dots in Image 12), Sc on the marked
stitch on the second leg (you can now remove the marker, yellow in my Image 13),
continue crocheting on the second leg 6Sc, INC, 7Sc, continue crocheting 12Sc on
the middle part in transverse loops (I marked them with blue dots in Image 14)
(57) Consider this the end of the first row.

Image 10 Image 11

6
Image 12 Image 13

Image 14 Image 15

Image 16

You will now start alternating the yarn colors.


But before this, if you do not know how to change colors seamlessly, here is a short video showing
how to change colors:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nQka5l6bRXUkD463EapNpYmgI4wXMxXG/view?usp=sharing
In the last single crochet before the color change, insert the hook in the indicated stitch, pull up
a loop (Images 17 & 18). In other words, make a single crochet but do not finish it! Grab the new
color with your crochet hook and finish that single crochet (Images 19 to 22). You have a nice
finished single crochet in previous color and a new color loop on your hook (Image 22). The next
single crochet will be done in the new colored yarn. Hold your new color yarn as you usually do
and crochet as you would normally do. The only difference is that you place the other yarn, the
old color, on the back of the stitches of the previous row (see Images 23 to 32 on how to crochet
the next 2 stitches in the new colored yarn). This will hold the yarn hidden and carry it along with
you. I prefer this method instead of cutting the yarn after each color change.
In the photos below I am showing a different project, so do not worry if your Hestu body is not
looking as in the following photos, these are just for reference on how to change colors
seamlessly.

7
Image 17 Image 18 Image 19

Image 20 Image 22
Image 21

Image 23 Image 24 Image 25

Image 26 Image 27 Image 28

Image 29 Image 30 Image 31

8
Image 32

Starting with the next row, crochet with darker colored yarn when you read “d” and with
lighter colored yarn when you read “l”. The legs were crocheted in lighter colored yarn.
2 row “l”Sc in the marked stitch (you can remove the marker, green in my case), “d”6Sc,
“d”INC, “d”9Sc, “l”19Sc, “l”INC, “d”20Sc (59)
3 row “d”7Sc, “d”INC, “d”12Sc, “l”17Sc, “l”INC, “d”21Sc (61)
4 row “d”Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”4Sc, “d”INC, “d”14Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”12Sc, “d”INC, “d”21Sc (63)
Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the
color in the last single crochet for this row.
5 row “l”2Sc, “l”INC, “l”Sc, “d”Sc, “d”INC, “d”[2Sc, INC] x 18, “d”2Sc, “l”INC (84)
6 row “l”7Sc, “d”47Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”23Sc, “l”4Sc (84)
7 row “l”10Sc, “l”INC, “l”2Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”26Sc, “d”INC, “l”4Sc, “d”19Sc, “l”7Sc (86)
8 row “l”15Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”13Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”4Sc, “d”INC, “d”9Sc,
“l”INC, “l”8Sc, “l”INC (89)
9 row “l”11Sc, “l”INC, “l”4Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”12Sc, “l”8Sc, “d”4Sc, “d”INC, “d”2Sc,
“l”5Sc, “d”13Sc, “l”15Sc (91)
10 row “l”31Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”7Sc, “d”INC, “d”2Sc, “l”7Sc, “l”INC,
“l”9Sc, “l”INC (94)
11 row “l”32Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”23Sc (94)
12 row “l”33Sc, “d”6Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”26Sc (94)
13 row “l”22Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”24Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”29Sc (94)
14 row “l”10Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”20Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”8Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”13Sc, “d”11Sc,
“l”5Sc (94)
15 row “l”8Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”17Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”8Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”14Sc,
“l”4Sc (94)

9
16 row “l”6Sc, “d”24Sc, “l”13Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”8Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”18Sc, “l”2Sc (94)
17 row “l”4Sc, “d”28Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”22Sc (94) Attention,
next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in
the last single crochet for this row.
18 row “l”2Sc, “d”47Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”8Sc (94)
19 row “d”47Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”19Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”6Sc (94)
20 row “d”23Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”17Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”18Sc, “l”14Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”2Sc (94)
21 row “l”8Sc, “d”13Sc, “l”13Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”17Sc, “l”16Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”2Sc (94)
22 row “l”10Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”15Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”16Sc, “l”18Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”Sc (94)
23 row “l”33Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”15Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”2Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”7Sc,
“d”INVDEC (92)
24 row “d”2Sc, “l”30Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”13Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”18Sc (92)
25 row “d”16Sc, “l”10Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”2Sc, “d”6Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”4Sc, “l”4Sc,
“l”INVDEC, “l”5Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”23Sc (89)
26 row “d”INVDEC, “d”11Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”3Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”15Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”4Sc,
“d”INVDEC, “d”2Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”7Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”16Sc (85)
Stuff the body. Continue crocheting.

Image 33 Image 34 Image 35

Image 36 Image 37 Image 38

10
Image 39 Image 40
Image 41

Image 42 Image 43 Image 44 Image 45

27 row “d”42Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”14Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”5Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”3Sc
(83)
28 row “d”12Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”29Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”Sc, “l”Sc, “d”5Sc,
“l”12Sc, “d”9Sc (81) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so
remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.
29 row “l”24Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”9Sc, “d”3Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”5Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”17Sc,
“d”6Sc, “l”Sc (79)
30 row “l”11Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”25Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”5Sc, “l”INVDEC, “d”2Sc, “l”20Sc, “d”3Sc,
“l”2Sc (77)
31 row “l”5Sc, “d”6Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”3Sc, “l”22Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”3Sc, “l”INVDEC, “d”3Sc,
“l”4Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”16Sc (75)
32 row “l”3Sc, “d”15Sc, “l”5Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”10Sc, “l”INVDEC, “d”10Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”10Sc,
“l”15Sc (73)
33 row “l”2Sc, “d”8Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”9Sc, “l”13Sc, “d”11Sc, “l”2Sc, “l”INVDEC, “d”16Sc,
“l”INVDEC, “l”6Sc (70)
34 row “l”Sc, “d”22Sc, “l”5Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”2Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”17Sc, “l”6Sc (69)
Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the
color in the last single crochet for this row.
35 row “d”9Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”26Sc, “l”7Sc, “l”INVDEC, “d”12Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”7Sc,
“d”INVDEC (65)

11
36 row “d”17Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”15Sc, “l”2Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”5Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”2Sc, “d”5Sc,
“l”4Sc, “d”8Sc (63)
37 row “d”9Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”19Sc, “l”10Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”INVDEC”, “l”3Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”7Sc,
“l”INVDEC, “l”Sc, “d”3Sc (60)
38 row “d”25Sc, “d”INVDEC, “l”11Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”20Sc (59) Attention, next row starts with
a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet
for this row.
39 row “d”9Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”12Sc, “l”13Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”8Sc, “l”INVDEC,
“l”6Sc, “l”INVDEC (55)
40 row “l”16Sc, “d”21Sc, “l”18Sc (55)
41 row “l”18Sc, “d”37Sc (55)
42 row “d”15Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”34Sc (55)
43 row “d”18Sc, “l”31Sc, “d”6Sc (55)
44 row “d”19Sc, “l”34Sc, “d”2Sc (55)
45 row “d”42Sc, “l”13Sc (55)
46 row “l”4Sc, “d”41Sc, “l”10Sc (55)
47 row “l”9Sc, “d”2Sc, “d”INC, “d”27Sc, “d”INC, “d”9Sc, “l”6Sc (57)
48 row “l”11Sc, “d”INC, “d”16Sc, “d”Sc (mark this with a marker, red in my Image 50),
“d”11Sc, “d”INC, “d”14Sc, “l”2Sc (59) Mark the last stitch in this row with a marker,
orange in my Image 51
Stuff the body.
From now on you will only crochet with the lighter yarn. You can cut the darker yarn and hide it
inside the body.

Image 46 Image 47 Image 48

12
Image 50
Image 49 Image 51

Image 52 Image 53 Image 54

Image 56

Image 55

3.3 Left “branch” (this will split into two small


twigs)
0 row 2Sc (mark the second single crochet with a marker, blue in my Image 57) (2)
1 row 9Sc, INC, 11Sc, Chain 2, connect to the marked stitch (blue in my Image 59) by
making 1Sc (25 stitches including chains)

13
2 row 9Sc, INC, 12Sc, BLO 3Sc (26)
3 row INVDEC, 7Sc, INC, 11Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC (24)
4 row 2Sc, INVDEC, 2Sc (mark the second single crochet with a marker, green in my
Image 61), 3Sc, INC, 5Sc, INVDEC, Sc (mark this with a marker, pink in my Image
62), Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC (21)

Image 57 Image 58 Image 59

Image 60 Image 61 Image 62

First small twig


1 row 4Sc, Chain 1, Connect to the second marked pin from row 4 above (marked with
pink in my Image 64) by making 1Sc, then continue to the left with 4Sc (10 stitches
including the chain)
2 row 4Sc, BLO Sc, 5Sc (10)
3 row 3Sc, 4Sl St, 3Sc (10)
4 row 4Sc, 2Sl St, 4Sc (10)
5 row 5Sc, 2Sl St, 3Sc (10)
6 row 5INVDEC (5)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, and use a needle to hide the tail inside the body.

14
Image 63 Image 64 Image 65

Image 66 Image 67 Image 68

Second small twig


1 row In the first marked stitch on row 4 of the left branch (green in my Image 69, before
the branch split) connect yarn (do not remove the marker). Make 1Sc in the next
stitch (mark this with a marker, yellow in my Image 70), continue with 10Sc, Sl St
at the base of the first small branch (red dot in my Image 71), Sl St in the stitch
where you connected yarn (marked with green marker in my case) (13)
2 row Sc in the marked stitch (yellow in my Image 72), 8Sc, 2INVDEC (11)
3 row INVDEC, 7Sc, INVDEC (9)
4 row 4INVDEC (4)
Add stuffing to the left “branch” through the open body.

Image 69 Image 70 Image 71

15
Image 72 Image 73 Image 74

Image 75

3.4 Right “branch” (this will be composed of 3


twigs)
With lighter yarn
0 row Connect lighter yarn in the marked stitch on row 48 of the body (marked with red
marker in my Image 76, you can remove the marker), Sc in the next stitch (mark
this with a marker, yellow in my Image 77) (1)
1 row 9Sc, DINC (double increase = 3 Sc in the same stitch), 12Sc, Chain 2, Connect to
the marked stitch (yellow in my Image 79) by making 1Sc (27 stitches including
chains)
2 row 12Sc, DINC, 11Sc, BLO 2Sc, Sc (29)
3 row 2INVDEC, 8Sc, DINC, 10Sc, 3INVDEC (26)
4 row 2INVDEC, 9Sc, DINC, 6Sc, 3INVDEC (23)
5 row 11Sc, DINC, 11Sc (25)
6 row 12Sc, DINC, 10Sc, INVDEC (Mark this stitch with a marker, blue in my Image 83. Do
not remove this marker, you will use it later) (26)

16
7 row 10Sc (mark this stitch with a marker, red in my Image 84) (10) You will now make
the twigs split. Continue crocheting the first piece below.

Image 76 Image 77 Image 78

Image 79 Image 80 Image 81

Image 82 Image 83 Image 84

First twig
1 row 2Sc, DINC, 5Sc, Chain 1, connect to the red marked stitch from the row 7 of the
right branch (Image 86) by making 1Sc (12 stitches including the chain)
2 row 10Sc, BLO Sc, Sc (12)
3 row Sc in each Sc around (12)
4 row 4Sc, INVDEC, 6Sc (11)
5 row 9Sc, INVDEC (10)
6 row Sc in each Sc around (10)
Add a little stuffing to this twig.

17
7 row 5INVDEC (5)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside using a needle.

Image 85 Image 86 Image 87

Image 88 Image 89 Image 90

Back to the main right “branch”


1 row On the marked stitch from row 6 of the right branch (before splitting into pieces,
blue in my Image 91) connect yarn (do not remove the blue marker). Sc in the next
stitch, 3Sc, Chain 4, skip the next 2 stitches at the base, Sc in the third stitch (the
hole that will form here will be used later), 2Sc, Sc at the base of the “first piece
(split)” (marked with a red dot in my Image 95), Sc on the other side, Sc, Chain 4,
skip the next 2 stitches at the base, Sc in the third stitch, 2Sc, Sc in the stitch where
you connected yarn (marked in blue in my case) (22 stitches including chains)
2 row 2INVDEC, BLO 4Sc in the chains from the previous row, 3INVDEC, BLO 4Sc in the
chains from the previous row, 2Sc, INVDEC (16)
Add a little stuffing to this twig
3 row 8INVDEC (8)
4 row 2INVDEC, Sl St (3)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, hide the tail inside using a needle.

18
Image 91 Image 92 Image 93

Image 95
Image 94 Image 96

Image 97 Image 98 Image 99

Crocheting the last 2 twigs


First twig
Flip Hestu’s body to get to the back side. Go to the first skipped stitch in row 1 from the “back to
the main branch” section (see my Images 100 & 101 from the hole that was formed before).
Connect yarn in the first skipped stitch from this hole.
1 row INC in the next stitch to the left, then 4Sc in the loops remaining from the chains
that we’ve made in the row 1 from the “back to the main branch” section, then
INC in the stitch where we connected yarn above (8)
2 row INC, 2Sc, 3 Sl St, Sc, INC (10)
3 row 4Sc, 4 Sl St, 2Sc (10)

19
4 row 4Sc, 4 Sl St, 2Sc (10)
5 row 5Sc, 4 Sl St, Sc (10)
6 row 6Sc, 4 Sl St (10)
7 row 6Sc, 3 Sl St, Sc (10)
8 row 7Sc, 3 Sl St (10)
9 row 7Sc, 3 Sl St (10)
10 row Sl St, 6Sc, 3 Sl St (10)
Add a little stuffing to this twig
11 row 4INVDEC, Sl St (5)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, hide the tail inside using a needle.

Image 100 Image 101 Image 102

Image 103 Image 104


Image 105

Image 106 Image 107 Image 108

20
Image 109 Image 111
Image 110

Image 112

Second twig
Flip Hestu’s body to get to the front side. Go to the second hole formed in row 1 from the “back
to the main branch” section (see my Image 114 from the hole that was formed before). Connect
yarn in the first skipped stitch from this hole.
1 row INC in the next stitch to the left, then 4Sc in the loops remaining from the chains
that we’ve made in the row 1 from the “back to the main branch” section, then
INC in the stitch where we connected yarn above (8)
2 row INC, Sc, 5 Sl St, INC (10)
3 row 4Sc, 5 Sl St, Sc (10)
4 row 5Sc, 4 Sl St, Sc (10)
5 row 6Sc, 4 Sl St (10)
6 row 6Sc, 4 Sl St (10)
7 row Sl St, 5Sc, 4 Sl St (10)
8 row Sl St, 6Sc, 3Sl St (10)
9 row Sl St, 6Sc, 3 Sl St (10)

21
10 row Sl St, 7Sc, 2 Sl St (10)
11 row Sl St, 7Sc, 2 Sl St (10)
Add a little stuffing to this twig
12 row 4INVDEC, Sl St (5)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, hide the tail inside using a needle.

Image 113 Image 114 Image 115

Image 116 Image 117 Image 118

Image 119 Image 120 Image 121

Image 122 Image 123

22
3.5 Body
You will now go back to finishing the body. Go to the marked stitch on row 48 of the body (marked
with orange marker in my Image 124) and connect lighter yarn
1 row Sc in the next stitch to the left, Sc in the corner of the left branch base (blue dot in
my Image 125), 2Sc in the loops remaining from the chains we made at the base
of the left branch (red dots in my Image 125), another Sc on the other corner (pink
dot in my Image 125), 6Sc, Sc in the corner of the right branches base (green dot
in my Image 126), 2Sc in the loops remaining from the chain loops we made at the
base of the right branches (purple dots in my Image 126), Sc on the other corner
(yellow dot in my Image 126), 5Sc, Sc in the stitch where we connected yarn (21)
Add the stuffing to the body, and branches.
2 row 9INVDEC, Sl St (10)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long tail for sewing.
Use a needle and sew to close the body. When you sew the two sides together, take the front
loops only from the side facing you and the back loops only from the back side.

Image 126
Image 124 Image 125

Image 127 Image 128 Image 129

23
Image 131 Image 132
Image 130

Image 133
Image 134 Image 135

Front view Back view Side view Side view

Image 136 Image 137 Image 138 Image 139

4. Tail
With lighter yarn

First piece
1 row 6 Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row [Sc, INC] x 6 (18)
4 row 3Sc, 2INC, 9Sc (mark this stitch with a marker, pink in my Image 140), 4Sc (20)

24
Fasten off, cut the yarn. Fold the piece in half with the marked stitch to the side.

Image 140 Image 141 Image 142

Image 143

Second piece
1 row 6 Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row [Sc, INC] x 6 (18)
4 row 3Sc, 2INC, 9Sc (mark this stitch with a marker, blue in my Image 144), 4Sc (20)
5 row 4Sc, DINC, 10Sc, make 1Sc to connect the two marked stitches on the two pieces
(take the front loop of the stitch from the second piece, blue in my Image 147 and
the front stitch from the first piece, pink in my Image 148), then continue with
9Sc, DINC, 9Sc, continue to crochet on the other piece 4Sc (43)
6 row 6Sc, 2DINC, 9Sc, INVDEC, 8Sc, 2DINC, 14Sc (50)
7 row 8Sc, 2DINC, 22Sc, 2DINC, 16Sc (58)
8 row 10Sc, DINC, 27Sc, DINC, Sc, Sl St (45)
Fasten off, cut the yarn leaving a long end for sewing. You will sew the tail to the body in the
assembly section.

25
Image 144 Image 145 Image 146

Image 147 Image 148

Image 149 Image 150

Image 151 Image 152

Image 153 Image 154

26
5. Arms
With lighter yarn
1 row 6 Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row [INC, 2Sc] x 2 (8)
3 row [INC, 3Sc] x 2 (10)
4 row [INC, 4Sc] x 2 (12)
5 row [INC, 5Sc] x 2 (14)
6 row [INC, 6Sc] x 2 (16)
7 row [INC, 7Sc] x 2 (18)
8 - 11 rows Sc in each Sc around (18)
12 row INVDEC, 16Sc (17)
13 row INVDEC, 15Sc (16)
14 row INVDEC, 14Sc (15)
15 row INVDEC, 13Sc (14)
16 row INVDEC, 12Sc (13)
17 row INVDEC, 9Sc, Chain 1, turn (10)
18 row Skip chain, skip first Sc, Sl St, 5Sc, Sl St (7)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.
Add stuffing to the arm.
Make another piece following the same instructions.

Image 155 Image 156 Image 157 Image 158

27
Image 159 Image 160 Image 161

6. Crown
With green yarn
Before starting, please note that the chains and slip stitches in the following instructions for the
crown do not count as stitches!
You will crochet crowns in 3 sizes (two large ones = Crown #1, one middle size = Crown #2 and a
small one = Crown #3)

Crown #1 – (large size) - Make 2 pieces following the below instructions


I’ve made a video for this that you can watch following the link below
https://youtu.be/MLIILEUbNcA
Make a magic circle
1 row 5 short bobble stitches in the magic circle (5) Below I will explain you how to make
the short bobble stitches for this row. You might be familiar with the bobble
stitches, but these are a little different, they are one loop shorter, that is why they
are called short.
For each short bobble stitch, you will always start with Chain 2 then continue with Yarn over,
insert hook in the magic circle, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on the
hook, yarn over again, insert hook in magic circle, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first 2
loops on the hook, yarn over again, insert hook in the magic circle, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull
through the first 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again, insert hook in the magic circle, pull up a
loop, yarn over, pull through first 2 loops on the hook. We now have 5 loops on the hook. Yarn
over again and pull through all the 5 loops on the hook. Mark this short bobble stitch with a
marker. After each short bobble stitch, you will make 1 Sl St inside the magic circle.
Then for each of the next 3 short bobble stitches you will follow the above instructions (do not
forget to add a marker to the finished bobble stitch). For the 5th short bobble stitch, repeat the

28
same instructions (also add a marker) but for the last Sl St, instead of making it in the magic circle
(like the other ones) you will make the Sl St in the very first short bobble stitch you made in this
row (the first one marked with a marker).
Pull the magic circle tight and continue with the second row
2 row 2 short bobble stitches in each of the 5 marked stitches from the first row (10).
Do not crochet in the slip stitches or chains from previous row, only crochet in the
marked short bobble stitches.
For each short bobble stitch, you will always start with Chain 2, then yarn over, insert hook in
the stitch (the one that was marked), pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops
on the hook, yarn over again, insert hook in the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first
2 loops on the hook, yarn over again, insert hook in the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull
through the first 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again, insert hook in the stitch, pull up a loop,
yarn over, pull through first 2 loops on the hook. We now have 5 loops on the hook. Yarn over
again and pull through all the 5 loops on the hook. Mark this short bobble stitch with a marker.
For this first short bobble stitch finish with a Sl St in the same stitch where you made the bobble.
This row calls for 2 short bobble stitches in the same stitch, so you need to make another short
bobble stitch in the same stitch with the first one. Start with Chain 2, follow the same instructions
as before, mark the new short bobble stitch with a marker pin. The only difference is that you
will now make the Sl St in the next marked stitch.
Continue with the same instructions until you have finished this row.
3 row 1 short bobble stitch in the first stitch then 2 short bobble stitches into the next
one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (15)
Follow the same instructions, only this time you will increase (2 short bobble stitches into the
same stitch) every other stitch.
4 row 1 short bobble stitch in each of the first two stitches then 2 short bobble stitches
into the third one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (20)
Follow the same instructions for the short bobble stitches, only this time you will increase every
other 2 stitches.
5 row 1 short bobble stitch in each of the first three stitches then 2 short bobble
stitches into the fourth one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (25)
Follow the same instructions for the short bobble stitches, only this time you will increase every
other 3 stitches.
6 row Sc in each of the 25 stitches of the short bobble stitches. Crochet as loosely as
possible! Make sure you do not crochet in the chains or slip stitches, but only in
the bobble stitches marked. (25) You can see how the piece tightens and folds by

29
itself. It should fold towards you. If it folds the other way (this should not happen)
you need to manually turn it around as the bobble stitches need to pop on the
exterior.
7 - 9 rows Sc in each Sc around (25)
10 row (3Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (20)
11 row (2Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (15)
12 row (Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (10)
Add the stuffing material.
13 row 3INVDEC, Sl St (4)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.
Make another crown following the same instructions above.

Crown #2 – (middle size) - Make 1 piece with the below instructions


Make a magic circle
1 row 5 short bobble stitches in the magic circle (5)
Pull the magic circle tight and continue with the second row
2 row 2 short bobble stitches in each of the 5 marked stitches from the first row (10)
3 row 1 short bobble stitch in the first stitch then 2 short bobble stitches into the next
one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (15)
4 row 1 short bobble stitch in each of the first two stitches then 2 short bobble stitches
into the third one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (20)
5 row Sc in each of the 20 stitches of the short bobble stitches. Crochet as loosely as
possible! Make sure you do not crochet in the chains, but only in the bobble
stitches marked. (20) You can see how the piece tightens and folds by itself. It
should fold towards you. If it folds the other way (this should not happen) you
need to manually turn it around as the bobble stitches need to pop on the exterior.
6 - 8 rows Sc in each Sc around (20)
9 row (2Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (15)
10 row (Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (10)
Add the stuffing material.

30
11 row 3INVDEC, Sl St (4)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.

Crown #3 – (small size) - Make 1 piece with the below instructions


Make a magic circle
1 row 5 short bobble stitches in the magic circle (5)
Pull the magic circle tight and continue with the second row
2 row 2 short bobble stitches in each of the 5 marked stitches from the first row (10)
3 row 1 short bobble stitch in the first stitch then 2 short bobble stitches into the next
one (you increase). Repeat this 5 times (15)
4 row Sc in each of the 15 stitches of the short bobble stitches. Crochet as loosely as
possible! Make sure you do not crochet in the chains or in the slip stitches, but
only in the bobble stitches marked. (15) You can see how the piece tightens and
folds by itself. It should fold towards you. If it folds the other way (this should not
happen) you need to manually turn it around as the bobble stitches need to pop
on the exterior.
5 - 6 rows Sc in each Sc around (15)
7 row (Sc, INVDEC) x 5 (10)
Add the stuffing material.
8 row 3INVDEC, Sl St (4)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.

Image 162 Image 163 Image 164

31
Image 165 Image 166 Image 167

Image 168
Image 169 Image 170

Image 171 Image 172 Image 173

Image 174 Image 175


Image 176

Image 177 Image 178 Image 179

32
Image 180 Image 182
Image 181

Image 183 Image 184 Image 185

Image 186

7. Hestu’s Gift
With yellow/golden yarn
1 row 6 Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row [Sc, INC] x 6 (18)
4 row [2Sc, INC] x 6 (24)
5 row [3Sc, INC] x 6 (30)
6 row Sc in each Sc around (30)
7 row [3Sc, INVDEC] x 6 (24)
8 row [2 Sl St, FLO Sl St DEC (find instructions on how to do this stitch on page 3)] x 6 (18)

33
9 row [FLO 2Sc, FLO INC] x 6 (24)
10 row Sc in each Sc around (24)
11 row [2Sc, INVDEC] x 6 (18)
12 row [Sl St, FLO Sl St DEC (find instructions on how to do this stitch on page 3)] x 6 (12)
13 row [FLO Sc, FLO INC] x 6 (18)
14 row [Sc, INVDEC] x 6 (12)
Fill with stuffing material.
15 row 6INVDEC (6)
16 row 3INVDEC (3)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn and hide the tail inside.

Image 187 Image 188 Image 189

Image 190 Image 191 Image 192

Image 193 Image 194 Image 195

34
Image 196 Image 197 Image 198

Image 199

8. Maracas
With red yarn
1 row 5 Sc in magic circle (5)
2 row Sc in each Sc around (5)
3 row 5INC (10)
4 row [Sc, INC] x 5 (15)
5 row [2Sc, INC] x 5 (20)
6 row [3Sc, INC] x 5 (25)
7 row [4Sc, INC] x 5 (30)
8 - 10 rows Sc in each Sc around (30)
11 row [4Sc, INVDEC] x 5 (25)
12 row [3Sc, INVDEC] x 5 (20)
13 row [2Sc, INVDEC] x 5 (15)
Fill with stuffing material.

35
14 row [Sc, INVDEC] x 5 (10)
15 - 16 rows Sc in each Sc around (10)
17 row 5INVDEC (5)
18 - 20 rows Sc in each Sc around (5)
21 row 5INC (10)
22 - 23 rows Sc in each Sc around (10)
24 row 5INVDEC (5)
25 row INVDEC (1)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside. Make two Maracas.

Image 200 Image 201 Image 202

Image 203 Image 204 Image 205

Image 206 Image 207 Image 208

36
Image 209

Image 210

Embroider the Maracas. I forgot to do this at this stage, and I have done it once everything was
assembled (which was very difficult) so my advice is to add the embroidery now. You should
embroider 4 circles on each of the Maracas along their circumference. Use white, black and a
darker shade of red yarn to embroider the details as seen in the photos below.

Image 211 Image 212 Image 213

9. Bag
With brown yarn
Chains do not count as a stitch
Chain 9 (mark the last chain with a marker, red in my Image 215), turn (9)
1 row Skip first chain (the marked one, do not remove the marker), INC, 6Sc, 5Sc into the
last chain stitch, move to the left to the backside of your chain, 6Sc, INC, Sl St in
the last chain loop (the one marked with a pin, red in my Image 217), Chain 1

37
(mark the loop of this chain with a marker, green in my Image 219), turn (22
stitches excluding the chain)
2 row Skip marked chain, skip the slip stitch, DINC, 8Sc, DINC, Sc, DINC, 8Sc, DINC, Sl St
in the marked chain loop from previous row (marked with green marker in my
Image 221), Chain 1 (mark the loop of this chain with a marker, pink in my Image
223), turn (30 stitches excluding the chain)
3 row Skip marked chain, skip the slip stitch, Sc, DINC, 10Sc, DINC, 3Sc, DINC, 10Sc, DINC,
Sc, Sl St in the marked chain loop from previous row (marked in pink in my Image
224) (38) Mark this stitch as the end of the row.
4 row BLO Sc in each Sc around (38)
5 - 11 rows Sc in each Sc around (38)
12 row 19Sc, Chain 1, turn (19 stitches excluding the chain)
13 - 21 rows Skip chain, FLO 19Sc, Chain 1, turn (19 stitches excluding the chain)
22 row Skip chain, FLO 19Sc (19)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside.

Image 214 Image 215 Image 216

Image 217

Image 218 Image 219

38
Image 220 Image 221
Image 222

Image 223 Image 224 Image 225

Image 228

Image 226 Image 227

Image 229 Image 230 Image 231

Image 232 Image 233 Image 234

39
Image 235 Image 236 Image 237

Image 239
Image 238 Image 240

Image 241

Bag strap
With brown yarn
1 row Chain 81, turn (81)
2 row Skip the first chain, 30 Sl St, 20Sc, 30 Sl St (80)
Fasten off, cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing. Sew the two ends of the strap to the bag.
Optional: Sew the bag on the sides to close it.

40
Image 244
Image 242 Image 243

Image 245 Image 246


Image 247

Image 248

10. Leaf
With green yarn
Chain 16 (mark the last chain using a marker, pink in my Image 249), turn (16)
1 row Skip marked chain, BLO 3 Sl St (keep in mind that now you crocheted in back loops only,
so the front loops remained and you will use them in the next row, where you’ll read FLO),
Chain 4, Skip the next 3 stitches at the base, BLO Sl St in the 4th stitch (the hole remaining
here will be used to insert the “nose”), BLO 8 Sl St, Chain 1 (17 stitches including chains)
Continue crocheting to the left, like you would crochet in spiral.

41
2 row FLO 2 Sl St, FLO Sc, FLO 3HDC, FLO 5DC, FLO 3HDC, FLO Sc, Sl St in the marked chain (Image
255, do not remove the pink marker), Chain 1, Sl St in the same stitch with the marker I
told you not to remove (pink in my case, you can now remove the marker), BLO Sc, BLO
3HDC, BLO 5DC, BLO 3HDC, BLO Sc, BLO 4 Sl St (Mark the last stitch with a marker, red in
my Image 257) (35 stitches including the chain)
3 row 3Sc, 3HDC, 3DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2DC, HDC, Sc, 6 Sl St, Sc, HDC, 2DC, 2DC in same stitch,
3DC, 3HDC, 3Sc, Sc in the marked stitch (red in my Image 260, do not remove the marker),
Chain 2, turn, skip first chain, Sl St, Sc in same stitch marked (red in my Image 261, you
can now remove the marker) (39 stitches, excluding the skipped chain)
4 row Sc, DC + Sl St in the same stitch, Chain 1, DC, DC + Sc in the same stitch, Chain 2, 2TR, Sc,
Chain 2, TR, 2DC in the same stitch, Sc, Chain 2, TR + DC in the same stitch, 2HDC, Sc, 4 Sl
St, Chain 9, turn, skip first 2 chains, BLO DC + Sl St in the same stitch, BLO 6 Sl St, Skip the
next stitch at base, 4 Sl St, Sc, 2HDC, DC + TR in same stitch, Sl St, Chain 1, 2DC in same
stitch, Chain 1, TR, Sl St, Chain 2, 2TR, Sl St, 2DC, 2 Sl St. (69 stitches including chains, but
excluding the skipped chains) Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail on the back side using
a needle.

Image 249 Image 251


Image 250

Image 252 Image 253 Image 254

Image 255 Image 256 Image 257

42
Image 258 Image 259 Image 260

Image 261 Image 262 Image 263

Image 264
Image 265 Image 266

Image 267 Image 268 Image 269

Image 270
Image 271 Image 272

43
Image 273 Image 274 Image 275

Image 276

11. Eyes
With the lighter yarn you used for the body
Chains do not count as a stitch
1 row 4 Sc in magic circle (do not tighten the circle, you want the 4 stitches to look like a
semicircle), Chain 1, turn (4)
2 row Skip chain, 4Sc, Chain 1, turn (4)
3 row Skip chain, FLO Sc, FLO 2INC, FLO Sc, Chain 1, turn (6)
4 row Skip chain, FLO 2Sc, FLO INC, FLO 3Sc, Chain 1, turn (7)
5 row Skip chain, FLO 3Sc, FLO INC, FLO 3Sc, Chain 1, turn (8)
6 row Skip chain, FLO 6Sc, FLO 2INC, Chain 2, turn (10)
7 row Skip the 2 chains, FLO 4DC, FLO 2HDC, FLO 4Sc, Chain 1, turn (10)
8 row Skip chain, FLO 2Sc, FLO 4HDC, FLO 2DC in same stitch, FLO DC, FLO 2DC in the
same stitch, FLO DC, Chain 3, turn (12)
9 row Skip the 3 chains, FLO TR, FLO DC + Sl St in same stitch, FLO Sl St, Chain 2, FLO 2DC
in the same stitch, FLO 2 Sl St, Chain 2, FLO DC + HDC in the same stitch, FLO Sl St,
Chain 2, FLO DC, FLO HDC, FLO 2 Sl St (15)

44
Continue crocheting to the left to create a margin for this piece (Images 293 to 297)
Margin Sl St, Sc, 2HDC, 2Sc, 3 Sl St, 3Sc, 10 Sl St
Make 4 eyes. On two of the eye pieces leave a long yarn tail for sewing.
Place 2 pieces one on top of the other (it doesn’t matter which side is up, they are both the same)
and sew the 2 margins together, using the back loops from the top piece and the front loops on
the bottom piece. Fill the piece with stuffing material before closing it. Fasten off and leave a
long yarn tail for sewing. Repeat this for the second eye.

Image 277 Image 278 Image 279

Image 280 Image 281 Image 282

Image 283 Image 284 Image 285

Image 286 Image 287 Image 288

45
Image 291
Image 289 Image 290

Image 293 Image 294


Image 292

Image 295 Image 296 Image 297

Image 298 Image 299 Image 300

46
Image 301 Image 302 Image 303

Image 304 Image 305


Image 306

Image 308 Image 309


Image 307

Image 311 Image 312


Image 310

Image 314
Image 313

47
12. Nose
With lighter colored yarn you used for the body
1 row 5 Sc in magic circle (5)
2 row INC, 4Sc (6)
3 row INC, 5Sc (7)
4 row INC, 6Sc (8)
5 row INC, 7Sc (9)
6 row INC, 8Sc (10) Image 315

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing.


Fill the nose with stuffing material.

13. Assembly
Sew the arms to the body with the curved side on the interior. Use sewing pins to fix them to the
body before sewing.

Image 318 Image 319


Image 316 Image 317

48
Image 320 Image 321

Image 322 Image 323 Image 324

Attach the eyes to the body using sewing pins then sew them leaving a small space in between.

Image 325 Image 326

49
Sew the tail to the back of Hestu. Add a little bit of stuffing to the tail before sewing.

Image 327
Image 328 Image 329

Image 330 Image 331


Image 332

Image 333 Image 334 Image 335

Image 338
Image 336 Image 337

50
Take the leaf (mask) and the nose. Insert the nose in the hole we formed while crocheting. Sew
the nose to the back of the mask making sure that the stitches are not visible to the front. Then
sew the leaf and nose to the body.

Image 339 Image 340 Image 341 Image 342

Image 343
Image 344 Image 345

Image 346 Image 347

Equip the bag.

Image 348 Image 349

51
Sew the Maracas to the arms. Please note I forgot to embroider the Maracas before assembly,
so my embroidery is not visible in the below photos. You can see the embroidery on the Maracas
instructions or in the last photos of the pattern after the assembly is done.

Image 350 Image 351

Take one of the 2 crown #1 (the largest ones) and sew it on top of the branches on the left.

Image 352 Image 353 Image 354

Image 355 Image 356

Take the 3 remaining crown pieces (you should have one crown #1 + one crown #2 + one crown
#3). Join them using sewing pins as you can see in my Image 357. Sew them together to form one
large piece.

52
Image 357 Image 358

Place the new formed crown on top of the right three twigs. Sew each of the three crowns to the
three twigs.

Image 359 Image 360 Image 361

Image 363

Image 364
Image 362

Image 365 Image 366 Image 367

53
Congratulations, your Hestu is now complete!

Image 368 Image 369 Image 370 Image 371

Thank you very much for purchasing this pattern, I hope you enjoyed it! Please leave a review on
Etsy and subscribe for more! I would love to see your Hestu, so please share your version on
Instagram or Facebook using #ElizettaCrafts hashtag.

Other patterns in my collection


Koroks (Zelda BotW) Makar (Zelda Wind
Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry Waker)
Get this pattern on Etsy or
Ravelry

Hollow Knight Grub


Bundle Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry
Get this bundle
on Etsy

Hollow Knight Hornet


Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry

Zote Six and Nome


Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry
Get this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry

/ ElizettaCrafts

54

You might also like