Plugged In 1st Edition Joel English Test

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TEST BANK: CHAPTER 6 – Critical Thinking

TRUE/FALSE

1. Critical thinking skills begin with simple memorization.

ANS: T PTS: 1

2. Critical thinking involves memorizing, understanding, and applying information.

ANS: T PTS: 1

3. Online classes are void of diversity.

ANS: F PTS: 1

4. Understanding diversity has no connection to becoming a critical thinker.

ANS: F PTS: 1

5. Collaboration in an online class is just as important as in a face-to-face classroom.

ANS: T PTS: 1

6. Synergy is new knowledge and ideas that are created through discussion and exchange.

ANS: T PTS: 1

7. There is no place for empathy in an online course.

ANS: F PTS: 1

8. College courses require students to analyze subjects.

ANS: T PTS: 1

9. The team perspective is more powerful than an individual perspective.

ANS: T PTS: 1

10. The communication triangle incorporates the author, the message, and the speaker.

ANS: F PTS: 1

MULTIPLE CHOICE

1. Critical thinking involves all of the following except

a. Assessing and analyzing issues.
b. In-depth thought about history, emotions, and motivations.
c. Identifying complex issues.
d. Investigating narrow questions.
 ANS: D PTS: 1

2. An important step to critical thinking is

a. Stepping outside of your perspective to understand additional layers of reality.
b. Understanding the audience.
c. Working with others.
d. All of the above
ANS: A PTS: 1

3. Which of the following is part of critical note taking?

a. The message.
b. Underlining
c. Margins.
d. The author.
ANS: B PTS: 1

4. Critical thinking skills begin with:

a. Analyzing.
b. Collaboration.
c. Memorization.
d. Application.
ANS: C PTS: 1

5. The Communication Hexagon takes the Communication Triangle and adds

a. The author.
b. The speaker.
c. The context.
d. The audience.
ANS: C PTS: 1

6. Critical research begins with:

a. Exploration.
b. Informed creativity
c. Passion.
d. Reading.
ANS: A PTS: 1

7. Evaluating research sources is a critical process because

a. it is important to investigate the author.
b. it is critical to becoming an expert.
c. it will make your voice work in your research paper.
d. the argument will be more sound
ANS: A PTS: 1

8. Assessing the source of a document allows you to

a. accurately state your opinion.
b. be creative in your writing.
c. highlight the currency.
d. assign value to the materials.
 ANS: D PTS: 1

9. College writing requires critical thinking, where instructors expect students to

a. motivate dissatisfaction.
b. move from understanding to application.
c. restate the voice of research performed online .
d. observe diversity.
ANS: B PTS: 1

10. Which of the following questions best highlights Attitude?

a. What is the motivation behind the author’s writing?
b. What is the important elements that lead to this writing?
c. What tone is being used in the author’s writing?
d. What context is being used in the author’s writing?
ANS: C PTS: 1

11. Which level of Bloom’s Taxonomy is the most basic critical thinking?
a. Creating
b. Analyzing
c. Applying
d. Remembering
ANS: D PTS: 1

12. Through collaboration and synergy

a. negotiation group interactions is more complicated.
b. embracing diversity can lead to new ideas.
c. lone rangers can become stronger critical thinkers.
d. decisions are made by the leader.
ANS: B PTS: 1

13. Empathy is best defined as

a. understanding who is speaking or writing.
b. underlining key information for critical textbook reading.
c. synthesized energy that is creating new ideas.
d. respected emotions through professionalism.
ANS: D PTS: 1

14. Placing context around a text allows the audience to

a. consider how the author shaped the writing.
b. synthesize new ideas.
c. identify the style the authors chooses.
d. analyze the purpose of the text.
ANS: A PTS: 1

15. At the end of critical research, a student can

a. show empathy for the reader.
b. place context around the text.
c. identify the author.
d. create a new argument as an expert.
ANS: D PTS: 1
Another random document with
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 Any boy can easily convert a toy rubber balloon into a real flier by
constructing the simple device shown in the illustration for filling it
with hydrogen. Procure a clay pipe and break off the stem near the
bowl. Bore a hole in a cork, or preferably a rubber stopper, selected
to fit some bottle and insert the smaller end of the pipestem in the
hole. As the stem tapers, if the hole has been made for the smaller
end, a tight fit is assured by simply pressing the stem well into the
cork. Tie the open end of the stem on the balloon tightly over the
larger end of the pipestem, and have ready a thread to tie the stem
of the balloon when it is filled.
Procure from a local drug store 1 oz. of hydrochloric acid. Place
some nails, or better still, a few strips of zinc, in the bottle and cover
them with a little water, then pour a small quantity of the hydrochloric
acid into the bottle and assemble as shown in the illustration. In a
few minutes hydrogen gas will be given off, and if the joints are tight,
the balloon will begin to fill. After it has expanded as much as it will
stand without breaking, tie the end with the thread, and cut off any
parts of the mouthpiece that may weigh it down. If sufficient gas has
been passed into the balloon it will rise to the ceiling. Balloons filled
in this manner have risen to a height of several hundred feet.
Caution: Do not allow the hydrochloric acid to come in contact with
the skin or clothing, as it may cause frightful burns. Do not under any
circumstance fill the balloon near a flame or allow fire to come near
the bottle.—Contributed by Ralph C. Jenkins, Manchester, Vt.
 How to Polish Instrument Bases
There seems to be a feeling among mechanical and electrical
experimenters that there is something mysterious about the process
of wood finishing, and often one may see a really fine piece of
apparatus spoiled by mounting it on a shellacked baseboard. I have
found that it is a very simple matter to produce almost a piano finish
on all woods, even those as soft as poplar, in the following manner.
Quick-drying wood dyes should be avoided. Simply rub down a piece
of ordinary water-color cake into some plain water and apply freely
with a rag, rubbing it in well. Any color may be obtained in this way,
but if this is not convenient, use an oil stain made quite thin with
turpentine. Next apply a thin coat of shellac, which should be
sandpapered when it is dry. A coat of ordinary varnish is then
applied, and when this is thoroughly dried, rub lightly with fine steel
wool. One coat of varnish may be sufficient, although several coats
will produce a richer finish. Rub the last coats down well with an oily
rag dipped in some abrasive material, such as tooth powder or metal
polish, and finish with a simple oil rub. A beautiful, soft, transparent
effect may be obtained in this way on very ordinary woods. Any
open-grained woods, such as oak, must be filled with a paste filler
after staining.—Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
 Locating Droplight in the Dark

The Cord Fastened to the Door Casing is Easily Located and Followed to the
Lamp

A simple device for locating a droplight can be had by putting a

nail or screw eye into the side of the door casing, high enough to
clear persons passing under it, but within easy reach of an uplifted
hand, and running a cord from it to the light. It is not difficult to locate
the cord attached to the casing and to follow it to the light.—
Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minnesota.

¶If kerosene oil is used when drilling, reaming, or turning malleable

iron, it will make the work much smoother.
 How to Make an Experimental Lead Screw

A Copper Wire Wrapped around and Soldered to a Straight Rod for a Lead
Screw

Often in experimental work a long, narrow, parallel screw is

desired for regulating, or moving, some part of the apparatus in a
straight line. A simple way of making such a screw is to tin
thoroughly a small straight rod of the required length and diameter.
After wiping off all the surplus solder while it is yet hot, wrap it with a
sufficient length of bright copper wire and fasten the ends. This wire
is then securely soldered in place by running the solder on while
holding the screw over a blue gas flame. To make the solder run
freely, brush frequently during the heating with a small mucilage
brush dipped into the soldering acid. An even pitch can be secured
by winding on two wires side by side at the same time, the second
one being unwound before soldering.
 Self-Setting Rat Trap

The Paper Stretched over the Barrel Top was Cut after Feeding the Rats on It
for Some Time

A suburbanite successfully trapped a bunch of rats by stretching a

piece of stout elastic paper on the top of an open barrel. Spreading
food on this paper he allowed it to remain until the suspicions of the
rats were allayed, then he cut two right-angled slashes in the paper
with a razor. Next morning he found seven of the pests in the barrel.
 Smoker’s Cabinet or Cellarette

The Smoker’s Cabinet Makes an Attractive Addition to the Furniture of a

Den, and should be Made Up and Finished to Match Other Pieces of the
Room

This design, when completed, takes up a wall space 20 in. wide by

31 in. high, and extends out 14 in. The material necessary for it is as
follows:
2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 31 in.
1 back, ³⁄₄ by 14 by 28¹⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 20 in.
1 top, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 18³⁄₄ in.
1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 14 in.
Door:
2 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 14¹⁄₂ in.
2 rails, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 10 in. (not including tenons, if such are desired).
1
 panel, ³⁄₈ by 10³⁄₄ by 11¹⁄₄ in.
Upper drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 9⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 9⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
Lower drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 5 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 5 by 12⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 12⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
1 piece for keys, ³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄ in.
1 pair hinges.
2 drawer pulls.
Screws and nails.

In constructing the cabinet, the outer frame should first be made.

The sides can be laid out and cut to the desired design. The top and
bottom crosspieces should then be squared up, and the tenons cut
as shown, the bottom tenons extending farther, to balance the
design. The top is set in ³⁄₄ in. from the back edge. Holes should be
marked and cut for the ³⁄₄-in. keys, after which the four parts may be
assembled, and suitable keys driven in place. The back for the
cabinet is made from ³⁄₄-in. material, squared up to fit between the
sides, and be flush with their top edges while resting on the bottom
crosspiece. It can be fastened in place with nails. The top and
bottom pieces of the cabinet proper can then be made, and secured
in place with round-head screws, after which the door may be made
and fitted. The stiles and rails of the door should be rabbeted for a
³⁄₈-in. square groove, to hold the panel in place. The frame can be
made sufficiently strong, if properly glued and held together with
dowel pins passing through the stiles into the rails. If it is desired to
fasten the frame with tenons, an extra amount must be added to the
length of the rails given in the stock list. The panel should not be
glued in place, as the shrinkage of the wood will cause it to crack.
 In making the drawers, the front should be rabbeted for a groove
to fit the drawer bottom, and sidepieces can be fitted and nailed in
place. These should be rabbeted for grooves, into which the bottom
and end pieces fit.
If the cabinet is finished in mission style, or fumed oak, hammered
copper or brass hinges and drawer pulls will go well with the general
appearance of the design.
 Skis and Ski-running
Running, Jumping and Climbing
By Stillman Taylor

Part II

Before the beginner makes the attempt to ski, he should see that his
complete outfit is perfectly suited to his purpose. The shoes
should be nicely adjusted to fit snugly between the metal toe plates
of the binding, and new holes should be punched in the straps
wherever needed to adjust the harness snugly and comfortably to
the feet. Many of the positions required in executing the various
turns and swings may be practiced at home, that the novice may get
some idea of the correct position of the feet and body assumed by
expert skiers. For the initial practice outside, it is a good plan to
select a frosty day when the snow is old and settled by the wind.
This will introduce the novice to the sport under favorable conditions,
while if the first trials are made shortly after a heavy snowfall, or
upon a mild day when the snow is thawing, only discouragement will
be experienced. Begin with one stick—or two if timid—and pick out
an easy-sloping hill with a gradual run to the level ground. A few
scattered trees and rocks will do no harm, for it is a good plan to
learn how to avoid them from the beginning.

How to Turn on Skis

This and the correct manner of standing on skis are easily

mastered if the beginner will but remember that the weight of the
body should rest largely upon the advanced foot without bending the
body at the ankle too much, or raising the heel from the ski. This is
the correct position to assume when standing for a rest and for
sliding, and this as well as turning should be practiced on the level.
To make the kick turn, simply raise the point of the ski until the heel
rests on the snow, as shown in Fig. 1. Swing the ski around by
turning the point out and back until the two skis are point to heel, as
shown in Fig. 2. When this, the most difficult position of the three, is
assumed, raise the point of the other ski as high as convenient to
avoid tripping, keep the heel down and swing the ski around over the
heel of the other until both are facing in the same direction, as shown
in Fig. 3. A little practice will make it possible for the novice to turn
quickly, and if all turns are made with the advanced foot, when
practicing on the level, no trouble will be experienced later on in
attempting to turn on a steep slope. The stick is really indispensable
for this practice, and while two may be used, the single stick will be
found assistance enough for any active person.
When skiing on level ground the correct movement is rather more
of a slide than the motion used in walking or skating. The body is
thrown forward on one ski and the slide is made with both feet, most
of the body weight being thrown on the advanced ski, while the rear
foot is slid forward without stopping the forward travel, as shown in
Fig. 4. The expert skier moves forward in long gliding steps without
raising the ski, but bending the knees slightly to slide the ski ahead.
The feet should be kept as close together as possible to make a
narrow track and the stick used to lengthen the slide. At the
beginning it is a good plan to endeavor to make a long slide with
each advancement of the foot, rather than strive to take long steps.
The speed of level running depends, of course, upon the condition of
the snow. On hard, well-packed snow, sliding is easiest and greater
speed obtained, while in deep and soft snow less speed is the rule.
When skiing on the hard snow of a road, four miles an hour is the
average speed, and for average level running, the skier will cover
about the same distance as when walking along a good path.
 Fig. 9
Fig. 1 The Skier
Raise the Runs
Point of the Straight
Ski until the Downhill on
Heel Rests One Ski and
on the Uses the
Snow Other as a
Brake
Fig. 2 Fig. 8
Swing the On Hard
Ski Around Snow the
by Turning Edges of
the Point the Skis
Out and may be
Back Used to
 Check the
Speed
Fig. 7
Fig. 3
When
Raise the
Running
Point of the
Downhill
Other Ski as
One Ski
High as
should Be in
Convenient
Advance of
to Avoid
the Other a
Tripping
Few Inches
Fig. 4
The Body is
Thrown
Forward on
One Ski and Fig. 6
the Slide is The
Made with Herringbone
Both Feet is Much
Fig. 5 Used When
The Skier the Skier
Naturally Wishes to
Places His Travel up a
Skis at Short and
Right Steep
Angles Incline
Rather than
Permit the
Slipping
Backward

When traveling uphill, the regular sliding gait will suffice if the
slope is gradual, but when a steep grade is encountered and the ski
slips backward, the skier stands quite erect, raises the point of his
ski about 3 in., and slaps it down smartly, without pulling it backward
or making any attempt to push his body forward with the stick. This
slap of the ski makes the smooth surface of the runner adhere better
than when the runner is slid forward in the usual manner. If the hill is
very steep, the skier will naturally place his skis at right angles rather
than permit the slipping backward. This is known as “side-stepping,”
and is shown in Fig. 5. In doing this, the heel of the ski must be
raised clear of the snow and the upper foot lifted uphill, then the
lower foot brought up to the last step of the upper foot, hence it is
extremely tiring for other than a short distance.
A variation of this movement, which is known to skiers as the “half
side step.” and which is made by advancing the foot with the legs
somewhat wider apart, and the skis placed at not quite so acute an
angle with the hill, is more useful when climbing the ordinary steep
grade and is far less laborious. If the skier knows how to handle his
implements, side-stepping may be done backward when necessary.
The “herringbone” is another step which is much used when the
skier wishes to travel up a short and steep incline. This step is made
by stretching the legs rather wide apart and pointing the toes out, as
shown in Fig. 6, at a decided angle, so that the knees are bent
inward and the inside edges of the skis cut into the snow. A variation
of this is the “half herringbone,” the skis being turned out at a less
acute angle. These special steps for special purposes are all useful
now and then in mountain climbing, but when a long distance is to be
covered, the skier will conserve his energy by mounting the hill in a
zigzag fashion rather than attempting to climb straight up. The track
of the skier will then resemble the course of a boat tacking through a
narrow inlet against a head of wind, and while more ground is
covered than when going straight up the steepest part of the hill,
progress is faster and much hard work is avoided.
When running straight downhill, one ski should be in advance of
the other a few inches, and the skis must be held quite close
together so that they touch, or nearly so, as shown in Fig. 7. To
make a narrow track, most expert skiers hold the knees together with
the back knee slightly bent. However, the body should be perfectly
and easily balanced. This is done, more or less, intuitively, by
beginning the run with the body thrown on the advanced foot, and
when full speed is attained the weight automatically shifts to the rear
foot. The novice will find it difficult at first to keep the skis together,
there being an almost uncontrollable desire to separate them to gain
a better balance. A good track will come with a little practice, but if
the skis are too short, or made without a groove, even an expert
would be compelled to keep his feet a trifle apart and make a double
track in order to keep from falling.
 Fig. 10
The Christiania Swing is Accomplished by Pressing with Both Heels at the
Same Time While the Stick Digs Well into the Snow Above

When making the start preparatory for coasting downhill, the

novice may, if the slope is moderately steep, face in the desired
direction and assume the proper position by supporting himself with
the stick. On most very steep slopes, where the best coasting is to
be had, this is quite out of the question, and the skier must step
around quickly by moving the lower ski first. This will be somewhat
difficult to do until the novice gains more confidence, which will
quickly come after a little practice, and it is a good plan to practice
starting from the slope without the aid of the stick to anchor the body.
Owing to the fact that the skis do not reach much speed at the start
of the coast, even the slow novice will have plenty of time to make
the turn and face in the right direction before much speed is attained.
A comparatively crouching position, secured by bending the knees
and the body at the waist, will much lessen the liability of a fall
forward. This position enables the skier to control the balance of his
body with more certainty, and especially when coasting on a hill
where patches of ice, or crusted snow, and soft spots of unpacked
snow are encountered, a condition usually found wherever skiing is
enjoyed. When coasting, the stick, or sticks, should be firmly
grasped at the upper end with the looped thong, or strap, over the
wrist, and the end dragging behind. Balancing is done entirely at the
waist, and for straightaway running, the weight of the body will rest
largely upon the rear ski. The long running surface of the ski will
carry the skier over many bumps and hollows without disturbing the
balance of the body or causing a fall, providing the novice does not
lose his nerve. It is necessary to practice on rough and uneven
ground if the skier desires ever to attain much expertness, and
plenty of falls must be expected, but not dreaded by the beginner. A
fall on skis is by no means fraught with danger, and one may fall with
impunity providing all muscles are relaxed. Many beginners find
falling the easiest manner of stopping, but this should not be
necessary, providing the hints given are well understood and
practiced. However, the novice should have no fear of falling if he
wants to become proficient on skis, and to offset any timidity, which
so very often causes the novice to lean backward and fall in this
direction, it is a good plan to lean well forward to check this natural
tendency. Getting up after a fall is easily enough managed if the
head is pointing up the slope, but when the position is reversed
much floundering is necessitated. It would seem that this would be
obvious to all, yet the majority of beginners often forget it altogether.
Braking with the stick is only effective when the body is properly
balanced, and the stick is kept well forward and as nearly vertical as
possible. Straddling the stick, sitting upon it, or leaning backward on
it held at an angle, are slovenly methods which every novice should
avoid.
The “snowplow” is most largely used by all good skiers for braking,
stopping, and turning. This is accomplished by stretching the legs
wide apart and at the same time turning the toes in as much as
possible, thus presenting the side of the ski to the snow and
retarding the speed. Aside from straddling the legs wide apart, the
novice will have no trouble in learning this useful knack. For the first
practice, pick out a fairly steep hill road, or a hillside where the snow
is old and not soft. Begin the run as for coasting, and when good
speed has been attained, spread the legs wide apart, turn the toes in
and endeavor to control the speed with the skis rather than depend
upon the stick. On hard snow the edges of the ski may be used to
check the speed, but on ordinary soft and well-packed snow, the
runner may be kept quite flat. This is well shown in Fig. 8.
The knack of “stemming” is a variation of the snowplow, inasmuch
as the skier runs straight downhill on one ski, and turns the heel of
the other ski outward and downward and uses it as a brake, as in
Fig. 9. This is a very useful movement, and is largely used when
coasting down steep slopes, and when one has learned the knack of
it, stemming will serve for braking and steering, and is useful for
stopping by turning the skiing course uphill. To earn it, select a steep
hillside, coast down at an angle, with the feet a trifle part, and
endeavor to retard the speed with the stick and turn the heel of the
lower ski outward. This makes the turn and the skier faces uphill and
comes to a stop. By turning the heel of the lower ski outward and the
heel of the upper ski inward, the skis will travel downhill with a sort of
snowplow movement. When practicing these movements, the
beginner should endeavor to use the stick as little as possible and
learn to depend upon the skis for controlling the speed.
The “side slip” is useful on steep slopes, and is done by turning
the skis so that the runners are at a decided angle to the course
traveled. This affords the maximum braking by the skis alone, and is
especially effective when combined with the braking done with the
stick. Side-slipping may, of course, be done while the skier is
traveling forward, by keeping the skis close together so that the
edges almost touch. While this movement checks the speed in much
the same manner as stemming, side-slipping is less tiresome, since
the weight of the body gives the required braking effect, while, in
stemming, the muscles are called upon to keep the heel pressing
outward.