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INDEX
IPagel (Itemi
Features and Parts lPal
3 Straight and Zigzag Sewing
WHITE Winding the Bobbin 19
6 Sewing on Buttons
Upper Threading 20
7 Straight Stretch Stitch
Placing Bobbin Case 21
S Multiple Zigzag Stitch
SEWING MACHINE Adjusting the Tensions 22
9 Blind Stitch Hem
Adjusting Pressure and Feeding of
Fabric 23
10 Manual Operation
Record in space provided below Preparing to Sew 24
the Serial No. and 11 The Adjustable Cording and Zipper
Model No. of this appliance. Applications of the Smocking Stitch Foot 25
12 Quilting Guide
The Scerial No. is located ott Bed Twin Needles Upper Threading
arid Stwing 26
Plate. 13 Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide
The Model No. is located on Bed Samples of Creative Embroidery 26
Plate. 14 Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle
Serial
No. Creative Embroidery 27
16 Care and Maintenance of Your Machi
Model No. 2 1 9 Embroidering With a Hoop ne 28
1 6 Accessories
Making Buttonholes 30
Retain these numbers for future 1 7 Trouble Chart
reference. To Regulate the Length of Stitch 31
19 For Portabile
Sewing in Reverse 34
19 Installing sewing Head
35
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3
FEATURES AND PARTS (Front View)
1. Take up Lever
10. Drop Feed Control
2. Pressure Release (Darning)
11. Model/Seriaj No. Plate
3. Arm Thread Guides
12. Needle Clamp Screw
4. Pattern Selector Dial
13. Presser Foot
5. Zigzag Stitch Width Control
14. Needle Plate
6. Bobbin Winder
15. Cover Plate
7. Hand Wheel
16. Attachment and Foot Thumb
8. Stitch Length Control Screw
Fig. 17. Tension Control
9. Reverse Stitch Button
18. Thread Guide
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4
5
20 STITCHING GUIDE
Fabric
Im11
8
F
1 5 12
Fig. 9
Fig. to
Fig. 13
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10
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
AND FEEDING OF FAB
RIC
General Sewing. Usua
lly for normal sewing PREPARING TO SEW
darner release, (B, Fig. the pressure bar cap or
14) is at its lowest positio Have take-up lever at hig
knob is turned to n and the drop feed pulling the material as this hest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help
“position, (Fig. 15). may deflect the needle and the feeding by
NEVER run machine wit cause it to break.
hout material under the pre
Sewing Thin or Light
Weight Fabrics. When Place material and thre sser foot.
lighter pressure is ads in position under the
required to sew satisfac Turn the hand wheel tow presser foot and lower the
torily on thin silk ard you until the needle presser foot.
pressure cap should be or flimsy material, the to begin sewing. is at its highest point. You
are now ready
By having the needle at its highes poi
about halfway down. wheel to start the machin t nt, it is not necessary to tou
pressing the snap lock, (A, Release all the way by
Fig. 14 e. You merely press the con ch the hand
Fig. 14) and then press by increasing or decreasing trol. The speed of the mac
to halfway spot. cap (B) down again the amount of pressure exe hine is regulated
rted on the control.
REMOVING THE WORK
Darning and Mending.
In order to move the Be sure to stop the mac
direction for darning and fabric freely in any hine when the thread take
mending, release the pre position. Now raise the .up lever and needle bar are
at the highest
completely by pressing ssure cap (B, Fig. 14) presser foot and draw the
and pass the threads over fabric back and to the left
down on the snap lock
, (A. Fig. 14) the thread cutter. Pull dow , Fig. 16-A and B,
Turn drop feed control as not to bend the needle. n slightly, holding thread in
(Fig. 15) to Leave the ends of thread both hands, so
“
will drop the feed well position. This under the presser foot.
below the needle plat
normal position, turn kno e. To return feed to
b to” “position.
Fig. 15
Fig. 16-A
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Fig. 16-8
12
APPLICATIONS OF THE SMOC
KING STITCH
Pattenu 151
Length: 5 SEAMS TWIN NEEDLES UPPER THRE
ADING AND SEWING
Width: 5 This stitch gives a finished
Feed Dog: step. For kints, it gives stren ¼ inch seam in one 1. Be sure zigzag needle plate and
Pressure: Nrmai gth presser foot are in place.
seams and prevents the curling and elasticity to the 2. Follow threading instructions
Foot: Zigzag Foot for single needle with these exception
often occurs with 5/8 inch open of the fabric that
ed seams. It is most a. Place two spools of thread, matc s:
applicable to soft, thin knits hing or contrasting in color, one on
such as nylon or acetate b. Lead both threads through arm each spool pin.
knits, but may be used on
other fabrics as well. thread guides.
Always make test seams with c. Bring threads down and arou
this stitch. nd tension discs with one thread
For woven fsbric, the smock passing between the back discs
ing stitch gives and the other between the front
strength and prevents raveling.
woven goods to replace flat It can be used on discs.
felled or French seams. Now treat both threads as one
For patterns with ¼ inch seams: until you reach the needle eye.
the raw edge of the fabric unde (Fig A ) Place d. Pass one thread through each
r needle eye (Gid. 18).
that as the needle swings to the the presser foot so 3. The maximum zigzag stitch width
right, it comes dosvn that can be sewn when using
at the raw edge. This will result
in an enclosed seam twin needle is at the number setting
3
allowance. of the zigzag width control.
For patterns with 5/8 inch seams: Any position above the number
3 position will break the twin
seam allowances may be trim (Fig, H ) The needle.
med
before or after sewing. If trimnli to ¼ inch either 4, Straight stitching and deco
ng before sewing, rative stitch designs can be prod
proceed as above. Otherwise,
sew the seam with the in the same manner as for single uced
raw edge of the fabric on the needle sewing except for the
etched guide line “14”. maximum zigzag width.
(Any time you use the full
stitch, you should readjust the
width of a particular Fig. 18
raw edge of the fabric
1/8 inch to the left.) Afterwar
d, trim the excess
fabric near the stitching. This
method is actually
easier than the overedge method
for fabrics that curl.
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14
SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
m
18
Fig. 23
I
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____
_________
_____
20
SEWING ON BtJTONS
21
1. Remove presser foot and repla
ce with special purpose button sewi STRAIGHT STRETCH STIT
2. Turn drop feed knob to “ ng foot (Fig. 24) CH
“ position
(Fig. 15), pattern selector (C, Fig.
position and zigzag width cont 17) to “1” Fattern:
rol (D, Fig. 17) to “0” position. 151 This stitch may be used
3. Place the button so that it com Length: 5 on knits and wovens in areas
es directly under the presser foot stress as a reinforcement of
and the needle enters the left Width: 0 stitch. It is excellent for
hand hole of the button. curved
-
4. Set the zigzag width control Feed Dog: seams such as armholes and
crotch seams. For active wear
to produce a zigzag stitch until
needle enters the right hand the Pressure: Normal such as ski pants and girdl
hole of the button. Turn e fabrics which endure
balance wheel slowly by hand the Foot: Zigzag foot stress in bending and stret a lot of
to be sure the needle clears both ching, this stitch may be
used
holes in the button. Correct for seamitig throughout the
gsrmnt.
Fig. 27
Step 1. (Fig. 27). If hem
with folded edge is used
make first fold 3/8” deep
Step 2. Turn hem to the
depth desired and baste .
Step 3. Fold hem back 1/4” from upper edge.
toward right tide of garm Press in place.
Step 4. Place material ent leaving 1/4” extended.
under presser foot, sew
and make a side wise stitc with stitch length set to
h about every 3/4” of suit material being sewn
an incn of sewing.
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23A
MANUAL OPERATION 24
SCALLOP STITCH
Be sure standard zigzag presser foot
and zigzag needle plate are
Pattern: 161
) The scallop stitch particularly works oui nice stitche in place and machine is set for manual
s to operation. Use for:
Length: 0.5—1.5
decorate sable cloth, sleeve fringe, stole and the like. Overcasting Worn Edges
Width: 5 Arid,
Zigzag stitch along the worn edges,
Feed Ego: when sewing on the edge, it is easy to have a neat trimmi
ng
catching the fabric as
the needle swings to the left, and
P,essure: No,wal allowing the needle to just
with removal ol redundant material just close
to those pass over the edge of the fabric on the
right (Fig. 29).
Foot: Zigzag Foot
stitches. Patching Fig. 28
Machine bastes patch into place
by placing fabric under hole
or worn area which has been cut
away. Then zigzag stitch
the patch into place by overca
sting around edge of hole.
Applique
Fig, 28Baste design to fabric and
zigzag stitch following the
shape of the design outlining
it entirely and remove excess
material on the outer edge by trimmi
ng it away after stitching.
Fig. 30.Baste design to fabric and
overcast a zigcag stitch
around the design outlining it entirel
y.
Hundred of other uses will become
apparent as you continue
to use the machine. Try the mulitp
le zigzag stitch for these
operations. Also, for best result
set speed control slower
when sewing around contours
and faster for straight lines.
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25
m
27
nally to keep it I\
operating smoothly, how often ‘‘L-1 .-e
depends on tlte amount I\
of sewing you do.
Before oiling the upper part of
the sewing unit at points
indicated by arrows in Fig.
39 turn hand wheel
L_E:y
toward you until the take.up lever
is at its lowest point.
Fg 39
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
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30
To oil mechanism under bed of machin
e, tip the head back on its hinges and ACCESSORIES
indicated by arrows Figures 40 and 41 oil all moving parts
and red spots on machine.
IIII
IE51I
VI (I(
4H
Fig. 41
32
TROUBLE CHART
2- Turn clamps outward and remove race cover. Thneven Pulling or holding
stitches [ material -
Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.
3— Remove hook.
4— Clean thread and lint from all parts, including race. Not enough tension
Increase tension.
5— Run a drop of oil along rim of hook. on upper thread
6— Replace shuttle, then race cover.
Poor quality thread Try different thread.
Snap clamps into place.
7— Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and replace, Needle too fine for
fitting tongue into notch of race cover. See needle and thread chart, gage 5.
thread being used
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33
34
Trouble Probable Cause FOR PORTABLE INSTALLATION
Correction
Upper Please read these important instruc
thread Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page 8 and tions With machine in sewing position attach
rethread machine. which were written to aid you
breaking In placing your plastic clamp “0” to top of partitio
n with
Too much tension iosen new sewing machine on its portable base.
screw provided so that it may be turned acros
First, remove the nail which holds the
thread tension knob to lower number. foot the bed of the machine, to hold it down.
Starting with take up control inside the base to avoid damag
Always start sewing with take up lever in highes e in (On some bases the clamp may be positio
in incorrect position t shipping. If a small plastic clamp is ned
position. fastened in the proper spot).
to the back and not to the top of the
Improper setting of partition To make the electrical connection draw
at one end of the base, remove it, too.
needle Refer to needle setting instructions, see page 10. the two wires through the slot in the partitio
After unpacking the sewing machine n
Bent or eye of needle unit, of the base. Plug the cord labeled “Moto
being certain to take out the instruction r”
to sharp Try a new needle. book, into the receptacle marked “Motor” on
guarantee and accessory box lay the
unit face the
block attached to the outer section of the hase.
Bent or blunt needle Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace with down on a table. You will see two
clamping Then insert the other cord into the “Light
new. screws “A” entering head hinge holes ”
Material “B” on receptacle.
Tensions too tight the underside of the back.
puckering See tensions adjustment, page 14. On the base you will find two head hinges
Place the foot control on the floor, insert
plug into a wall outlet (110—115 volts)
Dull needle Change needle. “C” which will fit into holes “B”. Lower and
the you are ready to sew. But first read the
base Onto the sewing machine fitting
Stitch length too long hinges inStruction book to become familiar with
Reduce stitch length. “C” into holes B. Tighten screws “A” the
securely threading of the machine, tension adjustments
with a screw driver.
and all the other features designed to make
sewing a pleasure.
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35
36
all
INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN CABINET
I.
-g Loosen both head hinge set screws until
head hinge hole is clear.
2 Tilt head hinge fingers up and back as far
as they will go.
3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges—
making sure fingers are inserted as far as
they can go into head hinge holes.
4.
uid
Allow the head to rest in its tiltedback
position.
5. Tighten both set screws securely with screw
driver.
6. Plug electrical leads into sockets located
inside cabinet Cord attached “motor’
es
tag must be plugged into socket marked
‘motor”. Untagged cord goes to “light”
socket.
.co
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MEMO
Back Waist
Length Head Measurement
Bust Measurement
Waist Measurement
Hip Measurement
56