CROCHET PATTERN

RASPBERRY TWIG
BROOCH

SVETLANA PELYUSHENKO DESIGN

•Please contact the author if you require any clarifications regarding the pattern.
•This pattern is for personal use only.
•You are free to sell items made with this pattern.
•The big request to those who post finished items photos, please credit the designer!

THANKS FOR UNDERSTANDING. ENJOY CROCHETING!

 ABBREVIATIONS
(US TERMS)
MR — magic (amigurumi) ring
ch — chain
t ch — turning chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
MATERIALS inc — increase
(work two stitches in one stitch)
• YARN USED х n — repeat n times
100% mercerized cotton
DMC Pearl Cotton Size 8 (10g/80m) (n) — number of stitches in a row

light green
green
red
pale light green
sewing thread: green, red, light brown

You can use any kind of yarn of the appropriate

color and thickness.
• Crochet hook 1 mm (CLOVER №6)
• Stuffing
• Needle
• Wire Ø 0,3 mm
• Polyurethane glue
• Pin for the brooch d 3,5 cm
• Scissors
• Acrylic paints: Cardinal red, Bronze

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

2
 1
4 3 2 1 BERRY
Berries are crocheted in two strands.
The main crochet technique: bobble stitch
consisting of 4 elements without fixing

BOBBLE STITCH
consisting of 4 elements without fixing
1 rnd — 8 sc into MR (8)
(pic. 1)
2 rnd — 2 t ch, 8 bobble sts,
sl st. (pic. 2-7).
Yarn over, insert your hook in the intended stitch
and pull out a long loop (3 loops on your hook)
(pic. 1).
Yarn over again, insert your hook in the same
stitch, grab yarn and pull out another long loop
2 3
(5 loops on your hook) (pic. 2).
Yarn over again, insert your hook in the same
stitch, grab yarn and pull out another long loop
(7 loops on your hook) (pic. 3).
Yarn over again, insert your hook in the same
stitch, grab yarn and pull out another long loop
(9 loops on your hook) (pic. 4).
Yarn over and pull through all the loops on your
hook (pic. 5).

4 5
1 1 2 2 1

3 4
3 2 1 4 3 2 1

6 7

5 6

3
3 rnd — 2 t ch, 12 bobble sts, sl st. 8 9 10

ROUND 3 DETAILED
We need to work 12 bobble stitches into 8
stitches of the previous round.
*work the 1st bobble into the foundation
stitch (pic. 9).
11 12 13
Divide the 2nd bobble in two parts.
Work the first 2 elements in the same
stitch, in which you worked the 1st one,
and the rest 2 elements – in the following
foundation stitch (pic. 10-12).
Work the 3rd bobble in the same second
foundation stitch (pic. 13)*. 14 15 16
It turns out that we work 3 bobbles into two
foundation stitches.
Repeat *...* 3 times (pic. 14).
Finish the round with a sl st (pic. 15).
4 -6 rnd — 2 t ch, 12 bobble sts, sl st
(pic. 16-19). 17 18 19
7 rnd — 12 sc, sl st (pic. 20)

Add stuffing (pic. 21).

Cut yarn, fasten off and hide yarn tail inside 20 21 22

the finished berry (pic. 22).

23

berry 1 berry 2 berry 3 berry 4 berry 5

Crochet 5 berries (pic. 23):

Berries 1, 2 — According to the description in two strands
DMC pearl cotton 8 (7 rnds in total).
Berry 3 — Two strands DMC pearl cotton 8, but do not crochet rnd 6
(6 rnds in total).
chain bobble stitch
of 4 elements
Berry 4 — One strand DMC pearl cotton 8 (pale light green) + sewing
single crochet thread (red) (7 rnds in total).
bobble stitch
slip stitch into two foundation stitches Berry 5 — One strand DMC pearl cotton 8 (pale light green) + sewing
thread (green). Do not crochet rnd 6 (6 rnds in total).

4
SEPAL chain
single crochet
WORK IN LIGHT GREEN (use 1 strand) slip stitch
1 rnd — 10 sc into MR, sl st (pic. 24) 10 half double crochet
double crochet
2 rnd — (1 sc into front loops only, 5 ch.
work into front loops
Now chain 5 and starting last stitch
to the 2nd st from hook work:
1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc.
24 25 26
Single crochet 1 to the front loop of the
following st of the 1st round) х 5.
Slip stitch to the last stitch of the round
(pic. 25-29).
Leave a long yarn tail.

27 28 29
wrong side
Now use LIGHT BROWN sewing thread.
Fold it 3 times.
Turn the sepal wrong side towards yourself (pic. 29).

3 rnd — work into back loops of the 1st round:

t ch, (loop stitch*, ch) х 9, loop stitch, sl st
(pic. 30-39). 30 31 32

Fasten off and cut yarn.

Cut the loops open (pic. 40-41).
Your sepal is done.
Crochet 5 pieces alike.

33 34 35

loop stitch
work into back loops
chain
36 37 38
slip stitch

*LOOP STITCH — insert your hook to the

following stitch of the round (pic. 31).
Grab the yarn strand and place it over an
39 40 41
additional bar (I use a chopstick), pull it
through the stitch (pic. 32). Finish the stitch
as a regular single crochet (pic. 33-34).
Chain 1 additionally for the round not to get
drawn together.
Repeat the sequence to the end of the round.

5
BERRIES ASSEMBLY 42

Take a piece of wire about 20 cm long, bend in half.

Insert it into the berry going through the last round stitches
(pic. 43). String the sepal on the wire, going through its first
round stitches (pic. 44). Press the wire bending place very
tightly. Thread a needle with a yarn tail leſt aſter crocheting
the sepal. Sew the sepal to the berry (pic. 45-46). Send the
thread to the center of the sepal. Remove the needle.
Add some glue on the wire to secure the thread (pic. 47).
Wind round 6-7 cm of the wire using the remaining thread
tail (pic. 48-49).

Assemble all the 5 berries this way.

43 44 45

46 47 48

49 50

6
 start

LEAVES
4 3
(in green, 1 strand) 6 5

7
8
MEDIUM SIZED LEAVES
1 9
10 2

Chain 6.
1rnd — crochet round the chain: starting to the 2nd st 11
from hook work 5 sc, picot (3 ch, 1 sl st to the 1st ch), 12
1 sc to the same st, 4 sc across the other side of chain,
13
3 sc to one st (pic. 51-54)
14
15
51 52 53 54

16
17

18

55
2 row (short row) — go on crocheting
without turning your work - 4 sc (pic. 55).

Continue working in turning rows.

3 row — 2 ch, 1 sc to the very 1st st* (рic. 56),
4 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc (pic. 57)
56 57 58
* Begin all the following rows, which start with 2 ch,
to the 1st st like in row 3.

4 row — 2 ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc

59 60 61
5 row — 2 ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
(pic. 58)
6 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
7 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 7 sc
8 row — 2 ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 7 sc
9 row — 2 ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc
62
10 row — 2 ch, 9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc
11 row — 2 ch, 9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 9 sc
(pic. 59)
12-14 row — 1 t ch, 9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 9 sc
(pic. 60-61)
15 row — 1 t ch, 9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc
16 row — 1 t ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc
17 row — 1 t ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 7 sc
18 row — 1 t ch, 7 sc, 1 sl st (pic. 62).
Leave a yarn tail.
Crochet 3 pieces alike.

7
LEAVES (in green, 1 strand) start

4 3

SMALL LEAVES
6 5
Chain 6.
12
1 rnd — crochet round the chain: 7
8
starting to the 2nd st from hook work 5 sc,
picot (3 ch, 1 sl st to the 1st ch), 1 sc to the same st, 9
10
4 sc across the other side of chain,
3 sc to one st (pic. 63) 11

12
13
2 row (short row) — go on crocheting without
turning your work - 3 sc (pic. 64).
14

Continue working in turning rows.

3 row — 2 ch, 1 sc to the very 1st st*, 3 sc,
3 sc to one st, 4 sc (pic. 65)

* Begin all the following rows,

which start with 2 ch,
to the 1st st like in row 3. 63 64

4 row — 2 ch, 5 sc, 3 sc to one st, 3 sc

5 row — 2 ch, 4 sc, 3 sc to one st, 4 sc
6 row — 2 ch, 5 sc, 3 sc to one st, 4 sc
7 row — 2 ch, 5 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc 65 66
8 row — 2 ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc
9 row — 2 ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
10 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc (pic. 66)
11-12 row — 1 t ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
13 row — 1 t ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc
14 row — 1 t ch, 5 sc, 1 sl st (pic. 67). 67

Leave a yarn tail.

Crochet 2 pieces alike.

8
LEAVES (in green, 1 strand)
start

LARGE LEAF 4 3

Chain 8. 5
6
1 rnd — crochet round the chain: 7
8
starting to the 2nd st from hook work 7 sc,
picot (3 ch, 1 sl st to the 1st ch), 1 2
9
1 sc to the same st, 6 sc across the other 10

side of chain, 3 sc to one st 12

11

(pic. 68)
13
2 row (short row) — go on crocheting without 14
turning your work - 5 sc.
(pic. 69) 16 15

Continue working in turning rows. 17

3 row — 2 ch, 1 sc to the very 1st st *, 18

5 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc

19

* Begin all the following rows, 20

which start with 2 ch,
to the 1st st like in row 3.
4 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 5 sc
5 row — 2 ch, 6 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
6 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 6 sc
7 row — 2 ch, 7 sc, 3 sc to one st, 7 sc
8 row — 2 ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 7 sc
9 row — 2 ch, 8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc
10 row — 2 ch, 9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 8 sc (pic. 70)

70

68 69

9
11 row — 3 ch, starting to the 2nd st from hook work 2 sc 71
across chain, 1 sc to the last sc of row 10 (pic. 71-73),
8 sc, 3 sc to one st, 9 sc (pic. 74)
12 row — 3 ch, starting to the 2nd st from hook work 2 sc
across chain, 1 sc to the last sc of row 11,
9 sc, 3 sc to one st, 11 sc (pic. 75)
13 row — 1 t ch, 11 sc, 3 sc to one st, 12 sc
14 row — 1 t ch, 12 sc, 3 sc to one st, 11 sc
15 row — 1 t ch, 11 sc, 3 sc to one st, 12 sc
16 row — 1 t ch, 12 sc, 3 sc to one st, 11 sc
17 row — 1 t ch, 11 sc, 3 sc to one st, 11 sc
18 row — 1 t ch, 11 sc, 3 sc to one st, 10 sc 72 73
19 row — 1 t ch, 10 sc, 3 sc to one st, 10 sc
20 row — 1 t ch, 10 sc, 1 sl st (pic. 76).

Leave a yarn tail.

74 75 76

All leaves are crocheted

3 pieces
1 piece
2 pieces

77

10
EMBROIDER VEINS

78 79 80

81 82

WORK IN LIGHT GREEN

Thread a needle.
Do not tie a knot, leave a short tail.
You don’t need extra knots, you’ll
add glue and wrap the thread
around the stalk.
Begin wrapping at the base of the leaf.
Embroider the central vein with
backstitch (pic. 78-80). 83
Once you reach the top of the leaf,
send your needle to the face side
(pic. 80).
Go along the stitches you just made
in the opposite direction (pic. 81-82).
Leave a short thread tail.
Embroider all the veins alike
(pic. 83).

11
MAKE LEAVES STALKS 84

WORK IN LIGHT GREEN

Cut a required piece of wire. You will need 24 cm

for a large leaf (you can snip off the extra wire at
the end when assembling). Bend in half.
Apply some glue (pic. 85).
Begin wrapping several millimeters away from the
middle. Once you wrap 5-7 mm, bend the folding
point very tightly (pic. 86-88). Go on winding round 85 86
both wire pieces. Wrap the wire so, that the wire
length equals the leaf length from top to bottom
(pic. 89). Add some glue on the wire and embroi-
dered vein on the wrong side. Hold and press firmly
(pic. 90-91).
Apply some glue on the rest of the wire and glue
all the leaf thread ends.
Go on winding round the wire and all yarn tails 87 88
from the base of the leaf (pic. 92).
Cut yarn.

89 90 91

92 93 94

front side wrong side

12
 95 96
Attach stalks to all the leaves this
way. Only on side (medium-sized)
leaves wrap the stalk by only 5-7 mm
below the leaf.
Do not cut yarn on the last side leaf
(pic. 95).
Add some glue on the stalks, hold
them together and wrap around all of
them (pic. 96-98).

Join the rest of the leaves the same

way - large one in the middle, small
ones on sides (pic. 99).

Join berries as well. 97 98

Wind round the stalks.
Make one twig with three berries
and one twig with two berries.
(pic.100).

99 100

13
TONING
101
Use acrylic paints to tone leaves and sepals.
I used only 2 colors:
• cardinal red
• bronze

Begin with sepals.

First you need to wet them properly with water
and straighten the tips (pic. 102-103).
Then dilute red paint on the palette with water
and carefully add paint to the tips of the sepals
with a thin brush. The paint spreads smoothly
for the pieces are wet (pic. 104-105).
You can also take undiluted paint on the tip
of the brush and tint more saturated. 102 103

Now tint the stamens a little. Take undiluted

bronze paint on the tip of a thin brush and gently
touch the threads one at a time. Small droplets
remain on the tips (pic. 106).

Let dry. Fix the pieces to dry them properly. You

can either place them in any container or stick
the stems into a sponge (pic. 107). 104 106

107

105

14
 108
Tint the leaves.
First you need to wet them properly with water, so that the
leaves soak nicely (pic. 108).
Then dilute red paint on the palette with water and carefully
add paint to the tips of the leaves with a thin brush (pic. 109).
The paint spreads smoothly for the pieces are wet. You can add
some bronze paint to the red one. You can tone along the
leaves veins with thicker paint, from the edge to the center
(pic. 110).

109 110

111

All the pieces look darker when they

are wet. They will look much lighter,
aſter they dry. You should mind that
when toning with acrylic paints.

If you are not sure that you will hit the

required shade, you can use chalk
pastel.

15
 112

ASSEMBLY
WORK IN LIGHT GREEN
Take a large leaf and two berries.
Apply a little glue on the stems and
press using pliers (pic. 113).
Mind that you will add a pin at the
back. To make it convenient to
attach, make the stem as flat as
possible.
Take the second twig with three
berries and glue it a little below
(pic. 114). Wrap the joined stems
with the thread. Begin from the top 113 114

leaf to the bottom edge of the pin

fastener (pic. 115-116). Place the
pin. Apply some glue on the stem.
Wind round both the stem and the
pin in the opposite direction
(upwards) (pic. 117). Having reached
the top of the fastener, continue to
wind it down again, adding glue if 115 116

necessary. Continue wrapping the

stem below the pin (pic. 118).
Attach the second leaf and continue
wrapping the stem (pic. 119).
Trim excess wire if necessary.

117

118

119

16
Once you reach the end, bend the
120
wrapped end back by 0.5-1cm and press
firmly (pic.120-121). Go on wrapping up
the stem, hiding all the wire.
Cut the thread, glue it (pic. 122).
At the very end, slightly tint the stem with
bronze paint (pic. 123).
Let dry.

Your brooch is finished.

121

122

123

17
 I hope you did it!
If you intend to use a Raspberry Twig made with this pattern
for commercial purposes, please leave the following link to the pattern designer:
www.instagram.com/pelyushenko_craſt/

18