My Little Pony

Amigurumi
 Materials Stitches used (US terms)
Yarn • ch: ch
chain
ain stitch
Schachenmayr Catania cotton in the colors of your choice • sl st: slip stitch
• Approximatel
Approximatelyy 1 skein (125m/137yds) for the full body • sc: single crochet

• Approximatel
Approximatelyy ¼ - ½ skein for mane and tail, depending on style • hdc: half-double crochet
• Scraps of a color slightly darker than the body for embroidering the • dc: double crochet
snout • inc: single crochet increase
• dec: invisible decrease
Other • o: front loop only
• 2.5 mm hook • blo: back loop only
• Polyll • magic ring
• Yarn needle

• Iron-on fabric or fe
felt
lt
• Acrylic paint or colored m
markers
arkers (for eyes
eyes and cutie mark) Instructions
• Scizzors
• Fabric glue • Rounds are worked in spirals without joining. Place a marker at the
start of every round to indicate the beginning of the round.

Gauge
These instructions are written with Catania cotton in mind, which is a
sports weight yarn. With this yarn and a 2.5mm hook, the pony will be
about 20 cm tall.
As always with amigurumi, gauge isn’t really important and you can
easily replace the yarn with the brand of your choice as long as you use
the appropriate hook to get a nice tight fabric. If you use a thicker yarn
(DK, worsted), yardage needed may be dierent than what’s listed and
the pony will turn out a lot bigger.
• If the pattern calls for “make x extra stitches, move marker” re-
move the marker and make the amount of sc stiches indicated (1 sc
in each stitch). The last extra sc you made is now the new end of the
round. Start with the instructions for the next round and re-place the
marker in the rst stitch.
• All stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise indici-
ated.
• Instruct
Instructions
ions between ** are to be repeated until the end of the
round. Instructions between [] are to be repeated as many times as
noted after the closing bracket. Numbers between () indicate the total
amount of stitches in that round.
 Head
r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: [1sc, inc]x3, [inc, 1sc]x3 (18)

r4: [2sc, inc]x3, [inc, 2sc]x3 (24)

r5: [3sc, inc]x3, [inc, 3sc]x3 (30)
r6: [4sc, inc]x3, [inc, 4sc]x3 (36)
r7: sc around
r8: [5sc, inc]x3, [inc, 5sc]x3 (42)
r9-14: sc around (42)
r15: 22sc, 3x inc o, 17sc (45)
r16: 23sc, 4x inc, 18sc (49)

r17: sc around (49)

Make 4 extra sc1, move marker
r18: dec, 21sc, dec, 22sc, dec (46)
r19: 19sc, 4x dec, 19sc (42)
r20: sc around (42)
r21: dec, 13sc, 6x dec, 13sc, dec (34)
r22: sc around (34)
Make 1 extra sc, move marker
r23: dec, 9sc, 6x dec, 9sc, dec (26) Front legs (make 2)
r24: sc around (26)
r25: 7sc, 6x dec, 7sc (20) r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r26: 7sc, 7hdc, 6sc (20) r2: *inc* (12)
r27: 7sc, 7hdc, 6sc (20) r3: *1sc, inc* (18)
r28: 8sc, 7hdc, 5sc (20) r4: *2sc, inc* (24)
r29: 8sc, 7hdc, 5sc (20) r5: sc around blo (24)
r30: 9sc, 7hdc, 4sc (20) r6: 10sc, 2x dec, 10sc (22)
Join with a sl st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing. r7: sc around (22)
r8: 9sc, 2x dec, 9sc (20)
1
See instructions on page 2 r9: sc around (20)
r10: 8sc, 2x dec, 8sc (18) Ears (make 2)
Start stung; keep stung as you go.
r11-12: sc around (18) r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r13: *7sc, dec* (16) r2: *1sc, inc* (9)
r14-16: sc around (16) r3: sc around (9)

r17: *6sc, dec* (14) r4: *2sc, inc* (12)

r18-30: sc around (14) r5: sc around (12)
r31: *5sc, dec* (12) r6: *3sc, inc* (15)
r32: *2sc, dec* (9) r7: sc around (15)
Join with a sl st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing. r8-9: 3sc, 3hdc, 3dc, 3hdc, 3sc (15)
Fold the ear at and sc both sides of the opening together. Join with a sl
st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing.

Torso
r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: *1sc, inc* (18)
r4: *2sc, inc* (24)
r5: *3sc, inc* (30)
r6-13: sc around (30) Start stung; keep stung as you go.
r14: *3sc, dec* (24) r11-12: sc around (18)
r15: sc around (24) r13: *7sc, dec* (16)
r16: *3sc, inc* (30) r14-15: sc around (16)
r17: sc around (30) r16: *6sc, dec* (14)

Join with a sl st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing.
r17-19: sc around (14)
r20: 2sc, 2x dec blo, 4sc, inc, 3sc (13)
r21: 2sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 3sc (13)
r22: 2sc, inc o, 5sc, dec, 3sc (13)
r23: 2sc, 2x inc, 4sc, dec, 3sc (14)
r24: 4sc, 2x inc, 5sc, 2x inc, 1sc (18)
r25: 4sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 1sc (22)
r26: 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 1sc (26)

r27-28: sc around (26)

Join with a sl st and bind o.

Hind legs (make 2)

r1: 6sc in magic ring
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: *1sc, inc* (18)
r4: *2sc, inc* (24)
r5: sc around blo (24)
r6: 10sc, 2x dec, 10sc (22)
r7: sc around (22)
r8: 9sc, 2x dec, 9sc (20)
r9: sc around (20)
r10: 8sc, 2x dec, 8sc (18)
Line up the two hind legs next to eachother with the toes pointing the r29: sc around (42)
same way. I usually stick a needle through both legs to keep them to- r30: *5sc, dec* (36)
gether while I work the join. Join a new yarn and sc the 5 middle stitch- r31: *4sc, dec* (30)
es where the legs touch eachother together, starting at the front of the Continue to stu the upper legs and hindquarters as you go. Make sure
legs and ending at the back. to stu the knees rmly so the shaping pops out nicely.

Start the rst row for the hindquarters using the 21 unworked stitches r32: *3sc, dec* (24)
of each leg, making one round of 42 sc together. Ignore the 5 middle r33: *2sc, dec* (18)
stitches from now on and treat the two legs joined together as one r34: *1sc, dec* (12)
round. r35: *dec* (6)
Join with a sl st and bind o. Sew the remaining hole closed and weave
the thread through the piece to hide it.

Sample join done in contrasting color for clarity’s sake; on the real
amigurumi you should do this in the same color as the rest of the pony.
 Optional Parts Unicorn horn
r1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
Pegasus folded wings (make 2) r2: *1sc, inc* (6)
r3-5: sc around (6)

r1: 6sc in magic ring (6) r6: *2sc, inc* (8)

r2: *1sc, inc* (9) r7-9: sc around (8)
r3: sc around (9) r10: *3sc, inc* (10)
r4: *2sc, inc* (12) r11-13: sc around (10)
r5: sc around (12) Join with a sl st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing. Stu the horn.
r6: *3sc, inc* (15)
r7-9: sc around (15)
r10: *3sc, dec* (12)

r11: sc around (12)

r12: *1sc, dec* (8)
Fold the wing at and sc both sides of the opening together. Join with a
sl st and bind o. Leave a tail for sewing.
 Assembly
1) Stu the torso and sew it onto the hind legs.
2) Sew the front legs to the torso. Place them to the sides of the torso,
not under it. Pin them down before sewing to check the exact position;
your pony should be able to stand on all four legs with minimal wob-
bling.
3) Sew the head onto the torso. When you’ve got about ¾ of the neck
sewn down, squeeze in some more stung so the neck will stay rm
and upright. The lowest point of the neck should align roughly with the
second round of the torso.
4) Grab a piece of leftover yarn in the same color as your pony and
thread it onto a needle. Insert it above the snout, in the rightmost
front loop inc you did in round 15 of the head (identiable by a small
bar behind the stitch), and pull the needle through to the back of the
neck. Thread the needle on the other end of the yarn and pull that one
through the leftmost frontloop inc stitch all the way to the back, coming
out one stitch apart from the previous thread.
Now push the crease where the snout forms inward with your nger so
it gets more sharply dened. With your nger still keeping the snout in
position, rmly pull the two threads at the back and knot them together
to secure this shaping.
5) Sew the ears onto the head. Mind the placing, they’re a lot further to

the back than you’d think.

6) If required for your pony, sew the wings onto the back just behind
the neck or unicorn horn onto the forehead.
 Finishing
So, now that all the crocheting and sewing is done and you have your
base pony, it’s time to give it some personality. It’s pretty undoable to
make a step-by-step guide for this part since every pony has a dierent
hairstyle, cutie mark and eyes, so instead I’ll give an overview on how
to apply some common amigurumi embelishment techniques to your
pony.
Eyes and cutie mark
My preferred method for very stylized eyes like those of the ponies is to
paint them onto this stu:
It’s commonly referred to as ‘iron-on fabric’, the stu that you use to
x holes in clothing. It should be available in any store that sells sewing
supplies, maybe even some local craft stores.
The surface has a nice structure to draw or paint on, and the hot-glue
layer on the back keeps the fabric together so you can cut out tiny
pieces without any fear of fraying.
Paint the eyes and cutie mark (some creativity required here, but
there’s plenty of big vector images on the internet you can use as
examples) and cut them out when done.
Tack them into place with some glue rst before ironing, so you’re sure
you have them in the right place.
If you’re planning to secure them further by ironing them, make a test
piece frst. Dierent kinds of paint can interact dierently with heat;
you don’t want your paint to crack or smudge onto the crocheted fab-
ric. Paint a little test piece and iron it onto a crocheted swatch to see if
you’re okay. You may have to put a piece of cotton like a handkerchief
or tea towel over the painted parts so the hot iron doesnt come directly
into contact with them.
After this, embroider the nostrils and mouth with a color slightly darker
than the pony’s base color and your face is done.
For manes, I recommend the latch hook method
method.. Cut some yarn into
same-length pieces and attach them one by one with your crochet hook.
This one is useful for small stretches of hair like bangs, or multicolored
manes like the Rainbow Dash I’m making here:

This is the method I use, but if you have another one yourself, go
ahead! Some people prefer to make eyes with felt, or print out the eyes
on printable fabric (which
(which sadly I can’t nd so I can’t try it out), or use
fabric markers instead of paint. So go ahead and experiment, the sky’s
the limit!

Mane and tail

For the tail, cut the yarn into a large amount of small strings of the
same size (each string twice the length of the tail), tie them together in
the middle with a tight knot and sew this bundle onto the hindquarters
of the pony.
If you’re unsure about the length, always overestimate! It’s easier to cut
o a bit than to make it longer once it’s cut.
A last method I use for ponies with incredibly curly hair, like Pinkie Pie
for example, is to make a bunch of little curly ‘tentacles’ instead of us-
ing single yarn strands. You make these by crocheting a chain of 60-70
ch stitches (you can experiment with length, since it’s dependant on
yarn weight) and crochet back along the chain, making 3 sc in each ch
st. Make a bunch of these chains and sew them onto the head for curly
manes.

And that’s all I know about ponies. I wish you good luck and lots of fun
with making your own!

Design, text and photos © Leyla Stormrage / Critical Knits.

Do not reprint, repost or sell this pattern.