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FOOTNOTES:
[31] This is the parole that the Druzes take of their prisoners, to
ensure their not fighting again.
[32] Hasbéyah and Rashéyah are two districts, situate midway
between Tyr and Damascus, and comprehended in 30° 15′ and
33° 39′ N. lat. on the western flank of Gebel es Shaykh, the vast
hump of Antilebanon: they are a part of the Cœle-syria of the
Greeks and Romans. In Hasbéyah is the source of the Jordan.
The castle, I believe, is one of the many yet remaining from the
days of the Crusaders.
[33] The loss of the battle of Nasib somewhat altered the nature
of these calculations. Had the Turks won that battle, all Syria
would have united to expel Ibrahim Pasha; as it was, future
conjunctures alone could enable them yet to display their hostile
feelings against an innovator, who had few or no partisans in a
country too primitive in its manners to rejoice in the introduction of
a demi-civilization. This was written in July, 1839. The exploits of
the English armaments, sent to expel Ibrahim Pasha from Syria,
have since confirmed these details, which are left as they were
first penned, although now necessarily devoid of all interest.
chapter ix.
Vessel hired for Dr. M.’s departure—Lady Hester’s intention of writing her
Memoirs—Letter from Lady Hester to Sir Francis Burdett—From Lady Hester to
Count Wilsensheim—Events of the Druze insurrection—Inexpediency of M. Guys’s
removal from Beyrout—Letter from Dr. M. to Count Wilsensheim—Letter from Lady
Hester Stanhope to the Baron de Busech—Lady Hester immured—Principal
reason of Dr. M.’s return to Europe—His adieux—Passage to Cyprus—Reception
by Signor Baldassare Mattei—Provisions in Cyprus—Mademoiselle Longchamps
—Letter from Lady Hester to Dr. M.—Commissions—Second Letter from Lady
Hester to Dr. M.—Third Letter from Lady Hester to Dr. M.—Advice—Obligations—
Violence of temper—Mr. U.—General Loustaunau—Logmagi and the muleteer—
Fourth Letter from Lady Hester to Dr. M.—Correspondence of the first Lord
Chatham—Lady Hester’s death—Conclusion.
Lady Hester wished me also to write to the count, to let him know
how it happened that Prince Pückler Muskau had been entrusted
with the correspondence between herself, Lord Palmerston, his
grace the Duke of Wellington, &c., &c.,: and also, as much had been
said of the prince’s way of travelling at the expense of Mahomet Ali
Pasha, to assure him, the count, that the prince showed no signs of
stinginess when at Jôon. The next day, being Wednesday, when I
could not see Lady Hester, I executed her wish.
Sunday, July 29.—The last letter which Lady Hester wrote before I
left her was the following, to Charles Baron de Busech:—
Jôon, July 29, 1838.
Sir Baron,
Mortified as I was that circumstances prevented me from
felicitating you in person on the re-establishment of your
health, I am nevertheless rejoiced that you all hastened to quit
Syria, seeing that the warfare between Ibrahim Pasha and the
Druzes has become exceeding rancorous, and would have
made travelling through the country far from agreeable. The
scene of action has lately been at Rashéyah, where the
Druzes have performed miracles. The Emir Beshýr’s son
marched with a reinforcement to assist Ibrahim Pasha, and of
this the Druzes killed just enough in the twinkling of an eye to
convince the whole body that, if they, the Druzes, had not
chosen to recollect they were fighting with neighbours, they
could have exterminated them. The Emir’s son had his horse
killed under him, and that prince took refuge very quickly in
the mountain.
When the Druzes found out that the Pasha’s artillery in the
valleys cut them up dreadfully, and that personal courage was
of no value, they retreated to the Horàn, where the inequality
of the ground was more favourable to them. At this moment,
Ibrahim Pasha is in pursuit of them, and has given orders to
his Bedouin robbers, whom he brought from Egypt (a tribe
which is called the Hanâdy), to run down the greatest hero the
Druzes have got, and to bring him alive; being so struck with
the courage of the man, that he would willingly employ him in
his own service. Poor Pasha! I fancy he has made a bad
calculation, in thinking that one of the family of Arriàn, men
accustomed like their ancestors to rule with sovereign
authority in their castle at Gendal, would ever become a vile
slave to save his wife. Shibly el Arriàn is not only a hero in
battle but a Demosthenes in council: he makes even the great
tremble by the language he holds.[37]
An order has just been issued by the Emir Beshýr to
search the dwellings of the Druzes afresh for concealed arms,
and to take from them their horses: this is, at best, a great
piece of imprudence, because, seeing that many of the
cavaliers would sooner fly than give up their horses, he will
thus increase the number of insurgents in the Horàn. Ibrahim
Pasha with the wreck of his army, of which he has lost full
thirty thousand without counting the wounded, cannot, if he
does not soon make peace and come to some composition,
do much more with the Druzes.
This is the state of affairs at this present moment; but it is
difficult to get at the truth. Even your friend L., if he knows
anything, dares not avow it: but what such sort of people
know is so little—their information is so confined—they are all
so ignorant of the true character, of the projects, and of the
resources of the different races that inhabit Syria—that the
reasonings they make are about as false as a fairy tale.
I have the honour to be, Sir Baron,
With all esteem and consideration,
Yours,
H. L. Stanhope.
Monday, July 30.—The mason had been sent for from Sayda, and
stones and materials had been collected for walling-up the gateway.
Lady Hester drew out on paper the exact manner in which she
wished it to be done. It was a screen, which completely masked the
gateway, and left a side opening just large enough for a cow or an
ass laden with water to enter. I superintended this work of self-
inhumation, the like of which never entered woman’s mind before. It
was an affair of two days, Monday and Tuesday.
Tuesday, July 31.—To-day, I spoke to Lady Hester medically for
the last time. Her pulse had recovered much of its wonted strength,
and although there were periods when she coughed violently, still the
struggles of a naturally good constitution and powerful lungs had
enabled her to hold out against the most formidable attack of
pulmonary catarrh that I had ever seen a human being withstand.
Thursday, August 2.—As no letters came from Prince Pückler
Muskau, and as it was evident some reason had prevented him from
fulfilling his promise of publishing Lady Hester’s correspondence,
she now gave me her final instructions on that head. I am disposed
to believe it was the strong desire that possessed her to ensure the
publication of her letters in the newspapers, which, amidst much
hesitation and wavering, made her decide on my departure; for she
knew she could rely on me, and the publicity of her grievances now
seemed to be the paramount object in her thoughts. Her anxiety on
this point was so great that, lest any accident might happen to the
MS. by shipwreck or otherwise, she had a second copy made of the
whole correspondence, which was to be left with her, whilst I
retained the originals.
Her own conviction was that her constitution was invulnerable—
she thought she should yet live to see her enemies confounded, the
Sultan triumphant, her debts paid, and an ample income at her
disposal. She dwelt with the same apparent confidence as ever on
the approaching advent of the Mehedi, and still looked on her mare,
Leila, as destined to bear him, with herself on Lûlû by his side. “I
shall not die in my bed,” she would say, “and I had rather not; my
brother did not, and I have always had a feeling that my end would
be in blood: that does not frighten me in the least.”
From August the 1st until the 6th, I was too much employed to
take notes. On the fourth, the fifteen days agreed on with the captain
were at an end, and he became importunate for our departure. But,
now that the moment of separation had arrived, Lady Hester had
some misgivings, and seemed to wish to defer it: I accordingly paid a
first day’s forfeit, then a second, then a third. At last, however, on
Monday, August the 6th, 1838, I took an affectionate leave of her,
and never saw her more.
On quitting her I said—“It is better that I should not see you to-
morrow, even though I should not set off early.”—“You do right,” she
replied: “let this be our parting.”—“But you have no money,” I
observed: “how will you do for your current expenses?”—“It’s true,”
she answered; “I must thank you to lend me 2000 piasters before
you go, and I’ll repay you as soon as I can: send them in by Ibrahim
—he’s an honest lad, and, even if he knew it was money, would not
touch it. But, however, you had better put two or three things of no
value in a little basket, and a cup and saucer, or something that
weighs, as if you sent them for my use, and then the gold will lie
underneath unsuspected.” This was done, and I would have sent
more (for I had twice as much more by me), but when I proposed to
do so her ladyship objected—remarking, “You may be blown out of
your course, and be obliged to remain days and days at some port
where you may want it for the necessaries of life. Two thousand will
do, and, if I want more, Logmagi, I am sure, will raise me as much.”
August 7.—It was eleven in the day before we could get
everything ready. As we quitted the terrace, where we had passed
nearly fifteen months, my wife and daughter shed tears. The black
girl, Zezefôon, was seen looking after us from the garden-wall,
where she, or the other maids, had kept watch from the dawn. Our
servants walked by our side to Sayda, and the secretary
accompanied us.
When we were about two miles on the road, a servant was
descried running after us. My heart beat—I knew not what might
have happened: but his business was merely to deliver a bag he had
on his shoulders, in which was a small Turkey carpet for spreading
on the cabin-floor in the vessel: this Lady Hester had sent, with a
message that perhaps we might find it serviceable in the passage.
Even to the last moment did her kind consideration for our comforts
manifest itself.
We embarked under the escort of Logmagi, amidst a crowd of
persons who had collected on the strand. On board we found the
entire hold neatly partitioned off by mats, which had been done by
Logmagi’s care, and mats spread on the ballast; so that we had
spacious and convenient berths for all the party. The schooner was
fir-built, and quite new: whether this was the reason that she
abounded in cockroaches I know not, or whether it was the extreme
heat or her cargo that had introduced them; but there were
thousands and thousands crawling in every direction, and this
annoyance, added to the burning sun, made the passage far from
pleasant. Our captain was named Kyriaco Candevíti, and the vessel
the Thrasybulus. On Friday at sunset we anchored in Cyprus roads,
and on Saturday morning were received on the seashore by our
excellent and generous friend, Signor Baldassare Mattei, at the door
of his marine villa, into which he ushered us, and, in the true spirit of
Eastern hospitality, made himself our guest, and insisted on it that
we were from that moment in our own mansion. It was the same
house we had inhabited in 1832.
We remained in Cyprus three weeks, delighted with the kindness
of the Europeans and natives, and revelling in the abundance for
which that happy island is so famous. We were luxuriously supplied
with sweet and water melons, grapes, figs, pomegranates, and other
fruits, of a flavour and size passing belief. Partridges were at 2½d.
each, hares at 6d., a loaf of bread of the size of a quart basin at
1½d., mutton at 2d. a pound, a fine hen for 5d., and so in proportion
of other things, with the exception of fish, which was rather dear.
Finding here the same vessel that had carried us to Europe in
1832 and still commanded by the same master, we took our passage
by her for 1000 frs. board included, and on the 30th of August set
sail. Our voyage was prosperous, and, reaching the port of
Marseilles on the 7th of October, we disembarked on the 8th in the
afternoon, and entered the lazaretto, where we performed
quarantine for fifteen days. Then, resting ourselves for a week in a
hotel at Marseilles, during which time I transmitted a copy of the
correspondence to England to be inserted in the newspapers, and,
leaving Miss Longchamps with her friends, we betook ourselves to