ELECTRONICS WORKSHOP

Experiment No. 5

Study of solder alloys, flux and rosin

Aim- Study of solder alloys, flux and rosin
Equipment-
Computer, solder alloys, flux, rosin
Thoery-

Solder Alloy
A solder's melting point, toxicity, and uses are almost solely determined by its alloy metals.
All solders formerly contained lead, but recent concerns about toxicity and lead poisoning have
encouraged more widespread use of lead-free solders.
Alloys are specified as a chemical "formula" of sorts, with the percentage of each element
represented as a subscript. For example, a tin/lead solder containing 63% tin and 37% lead is
referred to as Sn63Pb37.
Lead Solders
Tin/lead (or Sn/Pb) alloys are very common, versatile solders with a wide range of uses. Like
most solders, Sn/Pb is manufactured with different elemental concentrations dependent on the
intended application. A few common concentrations, melting points, and uses are listed in the
table below.
Concentration (% of Melting point
Application
Sn/Pb) (°C/°F)

63/37 183/361.4 Electrical / electronic components

60/40 188/370 Electrical components

50/50 212/413.6 Pipes / plumbing
Due to increasing restrictions on products containing lead, the use of tin/lead solders and lead
solders in general is steadily decreasing. Sn/Pb solders have generally disappeared from
plumbing applications in favor of silver alloys, but remain in use in electrical and electronics
manufacturing, gas lines, and brass soldering.
Lead/zinc (Pb/Zn) solders are less expensive than traditional Sn/Pb solders due to the
relatively higher cost of tin. Some lead/zinc alloys, such as Sn30Pb50Zn20, are widely used for
economical joining of metals, including aluminium and cast iron. This composition has also
been used for repairing galvanized surfaces. In general, zinc is added to solder alloys to lower
the melting point and reduce costs.

Lead-free Solders
Lead-free solders have become much more common due to new legislation and tax benefits
regarding lead-free products. The Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE) and
Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) directives — both passed by the European Union
(EU) in 2006 — have effectively prohibited intentional use of lead solders in European-made
consumer electronics. Lead-free solders typically use some combination of indium (In), tin
(Sn), or aluminium (Al). Interestingly, cadmium-zinc (Cd-Zn) solder, while considered a lead-
free alloy, is not RoHS compliant due to the directive's ban on cadmium as well as lead. Other
than Cd-Zn, most lead-free solders are not considered toxic.

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The graph below provides a helpful visual comparison of the melting points of various tin-
based lead-free solders, many of which are discussed in detail below.

Pure indium solder is commonly used in electronics manufacturing. Indium alloys are very
useful for soldering surface mount (SMT) components and parts with gold, ceramic, quartz,
or glass base materials. It features a low melting point of around 157° C (314.6° F). Indium
solders are most suitable for low temperature applications and can maintain seals in cryogenic
environments.
Tin/antimony (Sn/Sb) is a high-strength alloy extensively used in the plumbing industry. It
is also used in electronics applications for pin soldering and die attachment. Tin/antimony
solders create strong bonds with good thermal fatigue strength even in high temperature
environments. Sn/Sb alloys melt at around 235° C (455° F) and are also used in air
conditioning, refrigeration, stained glass, and radiator applications.
Tin/Silver (Sn/Ag) solders represent a common group of alloys often used for wave and
reflow soldering. Generally speaking, silver is added to alloys to improve mechanical strength,
although it is usually restricted to less than 3% of the total alloy composition to reduce the
risk of poor ductility and cracking. Common compositions include Sn95.8Ag3.5Cu0.7 and
Sn96.5Ag3.5, which have relatively high melting points of 217° C and 221° C, respectively.
Zinc/Aluminium (Zn/Al) solder has a very high melting point of 382° C (719.6° F) and is
particularly useful for soldering aluminium. Zinc/aluminium has a composition favourable for
good wetting.
Cadmium/Zinc (Cd/Zn) alloys are medium-temperature solders used to join most metals,
especially aluminium and copper. Cadmium/zinc solders form strong, corrosion-resistant
joints and are suitable for high-vibration and high stress applications. While Cd/Zn alloys are
available in several different compositions, most have a melting point of around 265° C (509°
F).

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Form Factor

Solder is available as a number of form factors, including paste, powder, wire, and preformed.
Selecting between these solder types requires an analysis of the application and general
needs. Preform solder is the most specific (and limiting) type and consists of a pre-made
shape designed for a specialized application. Preform solders are often stamped and may
include integral flux.
Solder paste consists of solder powder mixed with a thick flux material and is "printed" onto
a PCB using a stencil. The flux serves as a temporary adhesive to hold components onto the
board until the paste is heated; after heating, a stronger physical bond is formed. Pastes are
typically made of tin/lead alloys.
Solder wire is available in a range of thicknesses and configurations. Wire may or may not
contain flux.

Flux is a chemical cleaning agent used before and during the soldering process of electronic
components onto circuit boards. Flux is used in both manual hand soldering as well as the
different automated processes used by PCB contract manufacturers. The main purpose of the
flux is to prepare the metal surfaces for soldering by cleaning and removing any oxides and
impurities. Oxides are formed when metal is exposed to air and may prevent the formation of
good solder joints. The flux also protects the metal surfaces from re-oxidation during soldering
and helps the soldering process by altering the surface tension of the molten solder.
Flux is made up of a base material and an activator which is the chemical that promotes better
wetting of the solder by removing oxides from the metal. It also contains other solvents and
additives to help with the soldering process as well as inhibiting corrosion. Flux may be solid,
pasty, or liquid in form depending on how and where it will be used. For hand soldering, flux
can be applied by a flux pen or is usually in the core of the solder wire that most technicians
use. For the automated soldering processes used by CMs during printed circuit board
manufacturing, there are a couple of different ways that the flux will be applied.

Flux
The Application of Different Types of Flux
There are three different categories of fluxes used for soldering electronics according toIPC
J-STD-004B. These categories are; Rosin and Rosin Substitutes, Water soluble, and No-
Clean. Within these categories are different types and chemical compositions of the fluxes

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depending on the needs of the components and boards to be soldered. Depending on the
automated soldering process being used by your contract manufacturer, the flux will be
applied in these methods:
 Wave Soldering: The flux used for wave soldering is usually made up of more solvents than
flux used for other applications, and will be sprayed on the board prior to it going through the
solder wave. Once in place, the flux will clean the components that are to be soldered to
remove any oxide layers that have formed. If the board is using a less corrosive type of flux,
then the board will have to go through a pre-cleaning before the flux is applied.
 Solder Reflow: For boards that are going through the solder reflow process, a paste composed
of a sticky flux and small spheres of metal solder is used. This solder paste holds the parts in
place until the heat of the oven causes the solder particles to reflow. Not only are the metal
surfaces cleaned by the flux, but the pasty nature of the flux seals out the air preventing further
oxidation. The solder paste flux also contains additives to improve the flow characteristics of
the solder as it melts.
 Selective Soldering: The flux used for selective soldering processes is applied either by
spraying it, or by using a more precise drop jet process.
The method that the flux is applied to each of these solder processes is carefully controlled to
ensure that the flux is able to do its job without compromising the integrity of the soldering
process. For instance, if a solder paste is being used that has a greater concentration of solvents
in it than other types of paste, there can be a problem if the flux is heated too fast. The heated
solvents may outgas forming a void in the solder joint, and splatter molten solder onto areas
of the board that shouldn’t be soldered. For this reason, the solder reflow process is carefully
controlled with preheat, temperature soaking, and reflow stages.
Cleaning Flux from Electronics
Another aspect of flux is the need to clean it off the circuit board after it has done its job. Some
fluxes are corrosive, and their residue may continue their activity and harm the circuit board
long after it has been manufactured. The three categories of flux mentioned above each have
their own cleaning needs:
 Rosin Based: This flux will need to be cleaned with specific chemical solvents that typically
involve fluorocarbons.
 Water Soluble: There are many cleaning agents that can be used for water-soluble fluxes,
such as deionized water and detergents.
 No-Clean: According to the name, these fluxes require little or no cleaning. Usually, any
cleaning is more of a matter of cosmetic appeal than actual contamination. However, residual
no-clean flux can reduce the adhesion effectively of conformal coatings, so some sort of
cleaning is still recommended.
For those fluxes that are more corrosive, cleaning is essential. Some processes of circuit board
manufacturing, such as shielded areas of the PCB that go through wave soldering, can
potentially hide flux residue. This residual flux can cause serious problems for the circuit
board as time goes by if it isn’t cleaned. In addition to the corrosive problems of the more
active fluxes, however, even the residue of no-clean fluxes can interfere with PCB testing,
optical inspection equipment, and some sensitive electronic components. In general, it is best
to clean flux residue whenever possible.
Rosin Flux for Soldering
Rosin and acid core solders are manufactured with the solder wire as a tube and the center of
the tube contains the flux. Rosin core solder contains a mild flux and is designed to solder
parts where flux residue cannot be removed. An example would be electric circuit boards, or
electrical connections. In these applications there is often no practical way to clean flux

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residue after soldering. Rosin flux residue is non-corrosive which eliminates the need for
post solder cleaning. The mild nature of rosin core limits its use to copper and brass.
The name acid core tells us the flux is an aggressive type designed to solder steel as well as
other metals. Flux residue from acid core solder must be removed after soldering to avoid
potential part corrosion. Heat sources for cored solders can be air/fuel torches or soldering
irons and guns.
If additional flux is needed during soldering it’s important to confirm the core flux type.
Externally applied flux must be compatible with the flux cored composition you’re using.
Rosin and Acid Core Solders

What Common Types of Rosin Flux are Used In Electronics Soldering?

Rosin, No Clean, Rosin Mildy Activated, Rosin Activated, Water Soluble
What Does Flux Solder Do?
Flux removes surface oxides, grit, and grime from metal surfaces, thus improving the quality
of intermetallic bonds. Flux is a component coupled with solder bar or solder wire which
cleanses and primes a metal surface before soldering.
What is ROL0?
RO stands for rosin, the L is for low activity and the number 0 is for no detectable halides. a
halide-free, rosin-based solder paste with low activity is categorized as ROL0
What’s the Advantage of Solder Flux?
Flux lowers surface tension which allows uniform solder flow.
Rosin Solder Flux
Rosin (R) flux is a combination of rosin and solvent best suited for clean and easy-to-solder
surfaces. Rosin is hard, not conductive, and general corrosion-resistant. Rosin flux residuals
may be left on the assembly or removed with a compatible solvent.
1. Large wires
2. Only clean and easy-to-solder surfaces
No Clean Solder Flux
No Clean (NC) flux combines rosin, solvent, and a chemical activator. NC flux is best suited
for easily soldered surfaces. Activity is low-to-moderate and compatible with many assembly
types. The clear, hard residue is not conductive or corrosive. Residue removal is achievable
with a compatible solvent but more difficult than RMA fluxes.
 Most PCB work
 Designed to be left on many assemblies
 More difficult to remove than RMA fluxes
Rosin Mildly Activated Solder Flux (RMA)
Rosin mildly activated (RMA) flux consists of rosin, solvent and a small amount of activator.
RMA flux is often low-activity and best matched with easily solderable surfaces. The clear,
soft material is often non-corrosive and nonconductive. Cleaning depends on the flux activity
and the product in question for the selection of the appropriate solvent.
Rosin Activated Solder Flux (RA)
Rosin activated (RA) flux combines rosin, solvent, and aggressive activators. Activity is
higher than RMA for use on oxidized surfaces. RA flux is corrosive so sensitive assemblies

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must be cleaned as soon as possible with a compatible solvent or risk damage to electrically
conductive performance.
 Best for oxidized surfaces
 Clean as soon as possible after assembly
Water soluble (WS) flux combines organic acids, thixotrope, and solvent. WS flux activity
levels vary, from no activity to very high activity. Ideal for soldering difficult surfaces
including stainless steel. Reference the product specification for corrosion and electrical
conductivity hazards. WS soldering classifications include L, M, and H activity levels and
with a halide content of either 0 or 1. Remove residue with water.
 Soldering difficult surfaces, such as stainless steel
 Must consider corrosion and electrical conductivity hazards.
Flux Types and Activity Levels
Flux type:
• RO: Rosin
• OR: Water soluble
Activity level:
• Low: L
• Medium: M
• High: H
Halides detectable
 No: 0
 Yes: 1

ROL0 – “RO stands for rosin, the L is for low activity and the number 0 is for no detectable
halides. a halide-free, rosin-based solder paste with low activity is categorized as ROL0”

Conclusion:-
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________

Assessment of the Experiment / Assignment:

Timely Submission Presentation Understanding Total Signature of Teacher
(07) (06) (12) (25) with date

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Experiment No. 6
Solder basic electronic components like resistors, capacitors, IC bases
Aim- Solder basic electronic components like resistors, capacitors, IC bases (through hole) on
general purpose PCB.
Equipment-
Computer, resistors, capacitors, IC
Thoery-
Electronic Components and Their Function

1. Capacitors: Function of this Basic Electronic Components is to store electrical charge in an

electrical field.
2. Diodes: Components that conduct electricity in only one direction.
3. Integrated Circuits or ICs: A microelectronic computer electronic circuit incorporated into
a chip or semiconductor; a whole system rather than a single component.
4. Magnetic or Inductive Components: These are Electrical components that use magnetism.
5. Network Components: Components that use more than 1 type of Passive Component.
6. Piezoelectric devices, crystals, resonators: Passive components that use piezoelectric. effect.
7. Resistors: Components used to resist current.
8. Semiconductors: Electronic control components with no moving parts.
9. Switches: Components that may be made to either conduct (closed) or not (open).
10. Terminals and Connectors: Components to make electrical connection.
11. Transistors: A semiconductor device capable of amplification.

Prepare the components for soldering. Select the correct component by checking its type
and value carefully. With resistors, check their color code. Bend leads correctly, if necessary,
being careful not to exceed the stress specs (eg, by too sharp a bend), and clinch leads to fit
the board.

Precautions to be taken:-
Be extremely careful and solder only in an appropriate environment.
Always solder in a well-ventilated area, using breathing and eye protection.
Make sure to safely place the iron (using a fireproof stand or holder) when it is on but not in
use.
Leave 7–12 inches (18–30 cm) of space between the electronic components and your face, or
solder bits or hot flux may reach your eyes.
Safety spectacles are a very sensible precaution. Molten solder may splatter, and is essentially
unpredictable.

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Steps to follow during soldering:-

1. "Tin" the soldering iron tip. Melt a small blob of solder on end of the soldering iron. This
process is called tinning and it helps to improve heat flow from the iron to the lead and pad,
keeping the board safe from prolonged heat.
2. Careful cleaning of surfaces prior to soldering is needed.
3. Carefully place the tip (with the blob) onto the interface of the lead and pad. The tip or blob
must touch both the lead and the pad.
4. The tip of the soldering iron should not be touching the nonmetallic area of the PCB, whether
fibreglass (very common) or some other material. This area can be damaged by excessive heat.

5. Feed the solder wire onto the interface between the pad and lead.
6. The component lead and the pad should be heated enough for the solder to melt into the
connection point. The molten solder should "cling" to the pad and lead together via surface
tension. This is commonly referred to as wetting.
7. If the solder does not melt onto the area, the most likely cause is insufficient heat has been
transferred to it, or the surface needs to be cleaned of grease or dirt. The activity of the flux
was not sufficient, and external flux may be necessary.
8. Stop feeding new solder when all the surfaces have been wetted. When the gaps are filled and
the surfaces are wet, you should stop adding more solder. No more than a drop or two of solder
should be necessary for most joints, though it will vary slightly for different components.
The correct amount of solder is determined by:
 On plated-PCBs, you should stop feeding when a solid concave fillet can be seen around the
joint.
 On non-plated PCBs, you want to stop feeding when the solder forms a flat fillet.
 Too much solder will form a bulbous joint with a convex shape (ie, blob-like), while too little
solder will form an irregular concave joint. Both are visual indications that the solder joint is
defective.

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Steps for soldering paste

1. Using silver solder paste

2. One of the best things about using silver solder paste is the fact that it comes in a syringe. This
makes the application of solder paste incredibly precise, excellent. Simply remove the cap
from your syringe and secure the needle that comes with it in place.
3. Remember: Don’t throw away any of the plastic caps that come with your solder paste
syringes.
4. Check that the metal you are soldering is clean and free from any debris or greasy fingerprints.
This can interfere with the soldering process making it much more difficult for your solder
flux paste to flow nicely through the joint.
5. Make sure that the joint you’re soldering is completely flush. File until you can no longer see
any light seeping through the join. This will make sure that your solder joint is as strong as
possible and it will help the solder paste flow nicely.
6. Apply a small amount of solder paste to the joint or area of metal that is going to be soldered.
7. Apply a little pressure to the syringe plunger – you’ll soon get used to the pressure required
to apply the tiny amount of soldering paste you need to use on findings.
8. Reminder: Always apply a little more solder paste, as the solder paste is not pure solder. The
flux mixed with the solder will eventually burn off and leave the solder behind.
 Wipe away any excess solder paste from the syringe and replace the cap. Get into the habit of
doing this immediately after each use to maintain the consistency of your silver solder paste
for longer.
 Not 100% happy with the solder join? Simply re-clean your piece, add some more solder paste
to the join and reheat using the steps above.
 Once you’re happy with your solder joint, quench and pickle it to remove any oxidisation. If
you find any burrs or bits of excess solder, simply file them away for a neat, professional
finish.

Conclusion: -
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________

Assessment of the Experiment / Assignment:

Timely Submission Presentation Understanding Total Signature of Teacher

(07) (06) (12) (25) with date

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Experiment No. 7
Use de-solder pump/wick for de-soldering components
Aim- Use de-solder pump/wick for de-soldering components
Equipment-
Computer, de-solder pump/wick.
Theory-
Desoldering is the process of melting the solder and removing the joints made between two
materials.
In electronics, it refers to the removal of electrical components from PCB for troubleshooting,
repairing, replacing, and salvaging. Desoldering is most commonly used for this purpose.
To put it in simple terms, desoldering is the exact opposite of soldering. Student undo
everything that student did in the soldering process. Like soldering, desoldering is also an
intricate process and requires some level of proficiency. Student have to follow similar steps
and adhere to strict safety measures as in the case of soldering.
Desoldering
There are two ways to remove the solder:
1. With a desoldering pump
A desoldering pump is essentially a small, high pressure vacuum. After heating up the solder,
you can use the desoldering pump to suck the solder up and out of the way. It is also known
as a 'solder sucker'.
Here are the basic steps for desoldering using desoldering pump:
1. Set the pump by pushing the spring-loaded plunger down until it locks.
2. Heat up the solder you want to remove with a soldering iron (some desoldering pumps also
come with attached irons).
3. Once the solder is molten, place the tip of the desoldering pump against the solder that you
want to remove.
4. Then press the button on the pump to release the plunger and suck the molten solder into the
tool.
5. Remove free component.
6. Repeat steps 1-4 to remove any excess solder.
7. Dispose of the solder inside the pump by repeatedly pressing down and releasing the plunger.

How to Use a Desoldering Pump

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Point to remember: If you are trying to remove excess bits of solder, you may want to add
more solder to the joint, because the solder will stay liquid for longer when in larger "blobs",
and thus be easier to remove.
Pros: Desoldering pumps come in a wide range of styles, from handheld pumps to electronic,
heated guns that require no iron to use. They are great for reworking small parts and getting
solder out of pin holes. Removed components can be reused.
Cons: Although the pumps can have small tips, they are large in general and may be hard to
get into very tight spaces.

2. With solder remover braid

As soon as the solder starts to liquefy, count to two and then remove the soldering iron and
lift away the braid by gripping its container (and not the exposed metal braid). You should
see, on the braid, a shiny solder blob. If all went well, the blob of solder on the circuit board
is now gone and you can see the freed pin that you have successfully desoldered.
If all of the solder has not been removed and the pin is still attached to the circuit board, simply
repeat the process until the pin is free from the solder.
It comes in a coil of braided together strands of wire. Because copper conducts heat well, and
solder is attracted to heat, by heating up the braid you can draw the solder off your part and
into the braid. Some desolering braid comes with flux within it, which makes it much easier
and cleaner to remove a part. If your soldering braid does not contain flux, then you can apply
it by dipping the section of the braid you will use into the flux. Here's how to use it.
The copper braid acts as a wick for the molten solder which readily flows onto the braid,
away from the joint.
Steps for desoldering Wick
1. Unwind a few inches of braid from the coil.
2. If your solder wick does not have flux on it, then add flux to the section you are going to
use to make for a clean removal.
3. Place the braid over the joint you want to rework.
4. Place a hot soldering iron against the braid and desired pin.
5. Wait a few seconds. The solder will flow off the pin and onto the braid.
6. Remove the braid. The braid will be very hot at this point, so make sure not to touch the
braid itself, only the spool.
7. Remove the component.
Point to remember: Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to position and hold down the braid
without getting burned.
Pros: It's cheap and easy to use, and comes in various sizes depending on the magnitude of
the solder you want to remove. Desoldering braid is great for removing solder from flat
surfaces. Removed components can be reused.

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Cons: Desoldering braid isn't reusable because it gets so hot, it can be tough to reposition. It's
also pretty hard to get solder out of pin holes.

3. With Soldering Iron to desolder

If all you have is a soldering iron, then your only option is to heat up the solder and fiddle
with it until you can get the components out. Here's what you can do:
1. Heat up the solder with the iron.
2. Slide the iron up the pins to bring the majority of the solder away from the joint.
2. Using pliers, gently pull at the components to remove their pins from the pin holes while
they are still hot. It's a good idea to pull by their leads as opposed to on the components
themselves to maintain the quality of the component.
Point to remember: If you need to get excess solder out of holes, try sticking something like
a safety pin or needle through to clear out the through-holes. Using the tip of the soldering
iron will remove the copper plating from the PCB.
Pros: You need nothing but a soldering iron, and the components can be reused.
Cons: You may damage the board if you leave the soldering iron on it for too long.

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4. With Heat Gun.

Using a heat gun is another way to remove solder without the use of a soldering iron. Basically,
it heats up the solder enough to be able to remove the components. It is a slightly more
professional and expensive way of doing this as it is basically a heat gun specifically meant
for desoldering.
How you can use a heat gun to desolder components:
1. Turn on the heat gun.
2. Use pliers to hold the circuit board above the air stream.
3. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the component out of the board.
Tip: You only need to heat gun the board for a few seconds, or else you will melt the copper
plating on the PCB and damage the board, as shown in the picture.
Pros: Simple and quick way to get a component out of a PCB without a soldering iron. The
components may be reused, depending on the damage done.
Cons: It can get very, very hot. The board itself heats up pretty quickly, and you can damage
it or your fingers pretty badly if you aren't careful. The components and/or the board may not
be salvageable.

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5. With Compressed Air to Desolder (Method 1)

If you don't have access to any of the tools, then remove components using a compressed air.
You can use it to remove solder from your component by simply blasting molten solder away.
Here's how:
WARNING: If you are going to do this, you must wear safety glasses. This method sends
chunks of molten solder flying everywhere.
1. Heat up the solder with a soldering iron.
2. Once the solder is molten, get the nose of the compressed air can or gun close to the joint.
3. Blast it with air, with the nozzle pointing away from you.
Tip: Because the air can is pretty powerful, you can heat up solder stuck in pin holes and blast
it out
Pros: It's fun, messy, quick, and who doesn't love playing with compressed air? Also, the
removed components can be reused.
Cons: It's messy, so solder may get all over your workspace and circuit board if you aren't
careful with your aim. This is why you need safety glasses.
With Compressed Air to Desolder (Method 2)

Don't have access to a soldering iron? That's ok! You can use a compressed air in another neat
(but more aggressive) way to remove soldered components. When you turn a compressed air
can upside-down, it sprays out a freezing cold liquid solvent. This super-cools the solder,
making it extremely brittle. Here's what you can do:
1. Turn the compressed air car upside-down.
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2. Spray it against the joints. Parts of the board (top and bottom) will turn while, but after a
few seconds it will return to normal.
3. Wrench the components off with pliers.
Tip: If you don't have pliers, you can knock the components off using the edge of a table.
Pros: You don't need a soldering iron, and you get to see what happens when you turn an air
can upside-down! This process is also the only one that isn't very hot.
Cons: Components cannot always be salvaged.

Conclusion:-
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________

Assessment of the Experiment / Assignment:

Timely Submission Presentation Understanding Total Signature of Teacher

(07) (06) (12) (25) with date

E&TC Department BVDUCOE Page 40