TRIMS DEFECTS

Assignment 2:
Understanding Apparel Quality

Submission to: Ms Riju Jhakar

Submission by: Anushka Sinha
Ankesh Raj
Divya Vardayini
Pooja Mahajan
Tanushka Arora
Introduction

Material components except for the main fabric of the garment can
be understood as trims. Trims are used in an ornamental capacity to
enhance either the looks or functionality of the garment.

Most trims are used to increase the garment’s hanger appeal, for
product differentiation or to align with a fashion trend or theme of
the collection. Trims are often applied prior to garment assembly for
easy handling and application, but their placement and stage of
application depends on the design needs of the garment. They can
be superficially or structurally incorporated in the garment.

Types of Trims

1. Sewing Thread: Polyester threads are rapidly replacing

rayon threads. These threads are the first choice for embroidery
and stitching. Polyester yarn is known for high sheen and
standing up to wash and bleach. Polyester has a natural UV
resistance which makes it the first choice for most tailoring
requirements. These threads look, feel, sew and perform like
nylon. These dye-able polyester threads could be used in woven
garments, hosiery, leather garments, and jeans and also for
ready made garments.

2.Label and Motif: Labels mean a component used in the

garment where some essential information is written, such as,
 the size of the garment, the types of fibre, caring instructions,
the country of origin, the company of the make, trade mark etc.
For increasing the beauty of the garments, the special
components which are attached to the outer side of the
garments are called motifs. Generally motifs remain on the
outer side of the garment and labels remain inside. In making
some motifs, a few thermoplastic threads are used and those
motifs are attached in garments by ultrasonic welding. Motifs
can be attached in garments and sewed also.

3.Zipper: In making trousers, jacket and skirt chain or zipper is

an essential component of trimmings in garments. Zippers are

used for opening and closing of some specific parts of
garments. It is a functional component of a garment and
sometimes it is used for increasing the beauty of a garment.
Metal or plastic toothed or spiralled rows and similar two rows
placed on narrow tapes and joining with a slider is used to close
the open parts of a garment. The narrow two tapes are
attached to two edges of the garment by sewing properly.
The zipper tapes are made of cotton, polyester, nylon or of their
mixed fabrics and the zipper teeth are generally made of brass
but sometimes aluminium and plastic teeth are also used. A
slider is used for closing and opening of teeth and three is a
small pin in the slider by which the unwanted movement of the
slider is kept stopped. But for joining a zipper, a very skilled
operator is required because if not so, that means, if the zipper
is not joined properly, the garment may be bad looking.

4.Buttons: It is used in garments as a functional component or

 a decorative component, or for both the purpose at a time.
Buttons are made from natural material, such as bone, wood,
pearl etc. The buttons made from synthetic materials, such as
polyester, nylon, acrylic, metal etc are comparatively cheap and
easily available. Buttons may be of various types, such as 2
holes, 4 holes or without holes, that is shank buttons. The
sewing machines used for attaching the button to the
garments by sewing, are one needle chain stitch machine or
one needle hand stitch machine or two thread lockstitch
machine.

5. Lining and Interlining: In the inside of some of the

garments, separate from the main fabrics, different types of
fabrics are joined by sewing in order to increase the shape,
hang and comfort of garments, lining is used. The lining fabrics
are made from polyester, nylon, viscose, cotton, wool or their
blended fibres. It is widely used in the making of jackets, coats,
overcoat, rain coat, pocket, pocket flap, kids garments, ladies
garments etc. Generally, the lining fabric is used at a cheaper
price than the main fabric of the garment.
For strengthening some of the parts of a garment or for giving
a desired shape and holding of this shape, an additional one or
more layer of material, used between two or more layers of
fabrics, is called interlining. Generally, interlinings are used in
the collar, cuff, facing, the front part of jacket and coat, waist
band etc. Fusible interlining is widely used in garment making.

6.Others: Other important trims are such as rivets, hooks and

fasteners, interfacing, snap fastener, shoulder paddings, lace
 and elastics, wadding, cords, and bias tapes etc.

Various Defects for Trims

1. Loosely Attached Button: The holes should be

symmetrical with respect to its centre

2.Mismatched Button: The button-hole should be aligned

with respect to the attached button.

3.Rivet Corrosion: Brass zipper, buttons, rivets leaving

stains on the product due to oxidation

4.Broken Button: Button missing or damaged buttons get

overlooked while inspection and provide a sub par apparel
experience.

5. Wavy Zipper:A misaligned zipper leads to a wavy look that

is undesirable.

6.Defective Zipper: Tape shortage in zippers gives a

misaligned look and prevents the garment from being closed
completely.

7. Excess Back Fabric: In sewn on embroidery trims,

excessive back fabric can be seen sometimes that ruins the
aesthetic appeal. It can be avoided by cutting the back fabric
with more precision.

8.Missing Button: One of many button defects is missing

buttons, which can be caused by either complete failure in
 attaching a button or a button breaking off after getting
attached.

9.Bleeding Trims: The colours of trims may bleed into the

fabric if it has not undergone proper finishing procedure, and
may ruin the appearance of the garment.

10. Mismatched Trims: Sometimes the trims attached in

one part of the garment may not match the other part due to
printing, dyeing or choosing errors.

11. Bleeding Labels: Labels must be colour- fast and have

a sound construction. Bleeding labels do not give a good
appearance and ruin fabric.

12. drawstrings/Cords: Cords once knotted should not

open up. They might fall off the garment and get misplaced.

13. Zipper Slider Free: The zip slider must be free from
obstruction when functioning and not catch base fabric in its
movement. It may cause the fabric to tear or pucker.

14. Zipper Length: It is important to make sure that the

zipper is securely inserted into the garment (Zippers in trousers
should come upto the waistband, in dresses should come upto
the fabric)

15. Embroidery Application: Embroidery must be

correctly positioned and aligned. Embroidery threads must be
securely tied off and clipped. Embroidery must appear flat
without pucker or distortion

16. Lining Fabric Choice: Lining fabric, if used for the

pocket bag, is durable, appropriate, and has the same care
 requirements as the fabric (dyeing, shrinkage and fabric
structure)

17. Slashed Pocket Lining: Fashion fabric if applied to

the pocket lining should be directly beneath the pocket
opening when buttonholes or narrow single welts are used, to
prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is being
used.

18. Biassed Cut Pocket: Pockets were cut on grain and

any fabric designs were matched. If a biassed cut was used,
pockets were not stretched and have been properly stabilised
with a lining

19. Matching Embroidery Thread: Embroidery

threads must match the base fabric and remain colour fast. If
the colours mismatch, the embroidery will show up loudly.

20. Washers with Fasteners: Compatible washers

should be supplied along with the rivets and studs, otherwise
their function of fastening will become redundant.

21. Fusing Defect: Fusible which causes a strike

back(penetration of adhesive to other surfaces in the
interlining) and strike through (penetration of adhesive to the
outer fabric surface) will be rejected.

22. Loop Labels: Whenever loop labels are used the label
should be inserted appropriately with the allowance on the
label pushed fully into the seam and not showing outside

23. Appropriate Drawstrings: End toggles should not

open up, should be colour fast, lead and toxic free and should
 not distort on laundering.

24. Sharp Edges: Buttons should not have sharp edges. This
may happen due to chipping, broken buttons, and are a body
hazard.

25. Zip Top Stop: The top of the zip should have a top stop
where necessary as the slider can come off. The zipper top
should be selected at the sourcing stage.

26. Zipper Margin: Zipper should be attached neatly with

the correct stitch margin taken and without puckering. Large
amounts of margin will lead to an open seam and too little will
obstruct the teeth.

27. Some other defects:

○ Wrong labels
○ Improper size of the labels
○ Printing mistake of labels
○ Interlining colour mismatch
○ Wrong hanger
○ Lining colour mismatch
○ Detached belt loop
○ Misplaced embroidery/embellishments
○ Non-uniformly placed belt loops
○ Distorted embroidery
References
● https://textilelearner.net/different-types-of-trims-used-in-garme
nts/
● https://medium.com/@stitchdiary/importance-of-decorative-tri
ms-in-the-garment-industry-3b306e4b59ef
● https://www.textileblog.com/functions-and-importance-of-diffe
rent-trimmings-in-garments/
● https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2019/04/148-garment-def
ects-found-in-readymade.html
● https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/10/list-of-defects-fou
nd-in-garments.html
● https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.on
lineclothingstudy.com%2F2019%2F04%2F148-garment-defects-
found-in-readymade.html&psig=AOvVaw1j0UR3yrOE1dAK-u1CF
8JA&ust=1651269689216000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA0
QjhxqFwoTCJDa6Yvht_cCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD
● https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/5-garment-accessory-tes
ts-to-include-in-a-garment-inspection-checklist
● https://www.goldnfiber.com/2018/12/quality-defect-check-list-in-
apparel-industry.html
● https://medium.com/@stitchdiary/garment-defects-e1d7f880b2
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