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TO m en I! ADDRD A! A PPEND IX 03 PRE PARING

AR T I FI C I A L FR U I T E S S E N C E S
-

, E TC .

G . W . SE P TIM CS FIES SE ,

AM OR OP “ cann on , NATURAL. AND PHYSICAL MAGIC,"

r un LABORA TORY OP

PH ILAD ELPHIA
LINDSAY B L A KI ST O N .

1 8 6 7 .
KE 8 4 5 Z)
-

Gqé
x

san u u ax a cc . , r am u s s .
C O N T E N T S .

PAC !
C ON T E NT S .

PAOI
 PRE FA E TO T HE T HIRD E DI T ION
C .

BY univ ersal cons ent the physical faculti es of m an

hav e b ee n divid ed into fi v e se ns es — s eeing h earing,
, ,

touching tasting and s m ell ing It is o f m atte r p er

, , .

tain i ng to th e last m ention ed faculty that this book

-

m ainly tr e ats. O f th e fi ve s ens es that of sm ellin g is

,

th e l east valu ed and as a cons e qu en c e is th e l east

, , ,

tuto r e d ; but from this , our own act w e m ust not ,

conclude that it is of insignificant i m portanc e to our

w elfar e and happin ess .

By n egl ecting to tutor th e s ense of s m elling w e ,

are constantly l ed to b r e ath e i m pur e air and thus ,

poison th e body by n egl ecting th e wa r ning give n at

th e gat e of th e lungs P er sons who u se p erfum es
.

ar e m or e s e nsitiv e to th e pr es e nc e of a vitiat e d at

m o sph er e th an thos e wh o consid er th e faculty o f

s m elling as an al m ost us el ess gift .

In th e ea rly ages of th e wor ld p erfu m es w e re con

stan tl us d and th y had th high sanction of Sc ip
y e ,
e e r

tu r al authority .
 P R E FA C E TO THE T H I RD E D I T I ON .

T h e pat r ons o f p e rfu m er y have always b ee n con

sid er ed th e m ost civili z e d and r efin e d p eopl e in th e

world If r efin em e nt consists in knowi ng how to

.

e nj oy the fac ul ti es which w e poss e ss th e n m ust w e

,

l ea r n not on l y how to appreciate th e ha rm ony o f

color and fo rm in o r d er to pl e as e the sight ; th e
,

m elody of sw ee t sounds to d el ight th e e ar th e

, ; co m

fort o f approp r iate fabrics to cov e r the body , and to

,

pl eas e th e to uch ; but th e s m elling faculty m ust be

shown how to gr atify its elf with th e odo r ifer ous pro
ducts of th e gar d e n and th e forest .

Pathological ly consid er ed , th e u se of p erfu m es is

in th e high est d eg ree prophylactic ; th e r efr eshing
feeling i m pa r t ed by th e citr in e odo rs to an invalid is
w ell known T h e occasiona l s ac r i fic e of inc ens e in
.

th e fev er cham b er will p r ev e nt infection T h e odors .

of plants ar e all antis eptic .

T h e co m m er cial val u e of flow ers is o f no m ean i m

portanc e to th e w ealth of nations But vast as is .
,

th e consu m pti on of p erfu m es by th e p eopl e und e r

th e r ul e of th e B r i tish E m pi r e littl e has b ee n don e

,

in England eith er at ho m e o r in h er t r opical col

,

onic e towar ds th e establish m ent o f flo w er farm s or

,
-

th e production of th e raw odorous substanc es in d e

m an d by th e m anu facturing p e rfu m e r s of Britain ;

cons equ ently n early the wh ol e ar e th e p r oduce of

,

fo r eign countri es .

The clim ate o f so m e of the Britis h coloni es e sp e

 P RE FA C E TO TH E T HI RD E D I T I ON .

-
c i ally fits th em for the production o f odo r s fr o m
flowe rs that r equire el evate d t em p erature to b r in g
th em to p erfection .

But for th e l am ente d d e ath of M r C harl es P i esse

.
*
,

C olonial S e cretary for W este r n A ustralia fl o wer ,

farm s would doubtl ess hav e b ee n estab lish e d in that

colony long er e th e publication o f this wo r k Though .

thus p e rsonally fr ustr ated in adapting a n ew and u se

ful d escriptio n of labo r to B r i tish e nte rpris e I am ,

no l ess sanguin e of th e fin al results in oth e r b an d s .

Horticulturists b eing ge n er ally unac quai n ted with

th e m ethods of econo m iz ing the sc e nts fr o m th e

flow e rs th ey cultivate enti r ely los e what would oth e r

,

wis e be a p r ofitabl e sou r c e of incom e For m any .

ages th e C orn ish m in er s whil e working the ti n

,
°

st ream s , th r ew the copp er o r e ov er th e cliffs into the

sea ; h o w m uch w e al th w as thus cast away by i n o r
g
ance w e know not but th e re is a p erfect pa rall e l
,

b etw ee n th e old m in er s and th e m od er n gard e n e rs .

For m ore than a c e ntu ry prior to the V i cto rian er a ,

p e rfu m e s we r e out of favo r in E n gland ; th e p eopl e

w e r e of the id ea of Soc r ates , w ho obj ected to th e u se
of p e rfu m e ry altogeth er In th es e m od e r n days
.
,

how ev er civili z ation has r eviv ed , and th er e is resto r ed

,

with it o n e of its conco m itants It is m ention ed i n

.

”
C ham b er s s C yclop aedia , publish ed in 1 740 that
’
,

B r oth er of th e uthor
a .
 P R E FA C E TO THE T H I RD E D I T I ON .

p erfu m es w er e di sus ed h ere (in England) but w ere ,

.

6 la m ode in Italy and Spain .

In 1 8 22 th e first book d evot ed to this subj ect ap

p e a r ed i n our languag e ; it was th e work o f Ch arl es

L illy , edit ed by C ol v in M ack en z i e M r L illy is d e . .

“
scrib ed as that c el ebrate d p er fu m er at th e corn er of
”
B eaufort Buildings , i n th e Str and , and who was
spok en of i n th e Sp ec tator Taller and G uardian Now ,
, , .

j udging thi s wor k to r epr es ent th e knowl edge of th e

art of p erfum ery in this coun try at that p e riod it ,

m ust b e ad m itt e d that it was v ery i m p erfe ct : a c en

tury of n egl ect had don e its work, and th e ar t had

b een lost .

Fiv e and twenty y ears elaps ed , an d th e whol e c om

- -

m erc e o f England b egan to show consid e rabl e vitality ,

-
th e foundin g of th e A ustral ian coloni es , th e dis

c o v ery of gold in C aliforn ia and i n A ustralia , th e i n

tr o d u cti o n of railways th e application of ste am

, to
shippin g , and oth er c aus es has produced a great i n ,

cr eas e i n our com m erc e! Am ongst oth er thin gs th e

export of p erfu m e ry has incr eas e d .

In Italy , S ar dinia Sicily and So uth ern Franc e som e

, , ,

half do z n
-
e fl o w e r s—jas m in e, ros e, acacia orange b er , ,

e e e —
gam ot, tub ros , and viol t ar e ex tensively grown
for p er fum ery , and ar e now easily i m ported for m an
u factu r e into England Tr opical produc e tog eth e r
.
,

with m usk , am b ergris caste r an d oth er r aw m ate rials

‘

, ,

fo r th e perfu m er s laborato r y com es to th e British

’
,
 PRE FA C E TO TH E T H I RD ED ITION . XV

m ar k et b efore it reach es C ontin ental citi es Th ere .

is th erefo r e no natural r eason why th e p e rfu m ery

, ,

trad e should not tak e th e high est position in this

country ; eve n if it do es not ex ceed that of Ge rm an y
and Franc e, it m ight at l east e qual it .

Transpare nt soap was th e inv e nti on o f an E n glish

m an , y et h e is still pr ev e nte d fr om reaping th e b en efit
of his valuabl e inv e ntion by th e excis e duty on the
spirit whi ch is n ecessary for its m anufacture th e
cons equ enc e i s that G erm an and Am erican tr an sp ar
en t soap is i m po rte d into Engl and to the d etr i m e nt

of ou r trad e I do not vi ew th es e excis e duti es on

.

tr ad e pro ducts as affecting th e i ndividual m an u fac

tu r er , b ecaus e it is ad m itted that the individual m ust
s uffe r for th e m ultitud e ; but in cons equ ence of th ese
e xcis e duti es th e sourc e of r ev e n u e (co m m erc e
) is .

with e re d in th e germ “
It is tru e that u nd er c ertain
.

”
regul ations p erfu m ers can export sc ented spir it
free fro m duty b ut th e exp ens es inc urr ed to do so
,

ar e so gr eat that th ey all but equal th e b en efit d e riv ed .

Still th e English p erfum ery trad e is rapidly adve n e

ing an d finding favor fro m B ra z il to N ew Y ork
, ,

fro m A ustralia to India an d Russia I think I am .

j usti fi e d in sayi ng this favo r is not ill b estowed , fo r

England now produc es th e fin est p erfum ery in th e
i

world .

If this wor k has contr ibu ted i n any m easure to

rais e th e m an ufactu re of p e rfum ery in Englan d to i ts
xvi PRE FA C E TO TH E T H IRD E D IT I ON .

p res ent m ercantil e i m portan c e m y labors hav e not

b een in vain ; and I am happy in thus ad di ng to th e
i ndustrial r esou r c es o f m y country .

Th e exportation o f p e rfum e ry has exactly doubl ed

in val u e sinc e th e date of the first e dition of this wo r k ,
and this , too in spite of th e al m ost p r ohibitory tari fl
'

l evi ed by our Indian G overn m ent, an d th e c essation

of trade with th e two A m e ri c as .

To m y G er m an translator an d to m y Am erican
,

r eprint e rs , I co m m end th e p r e s ent e dition .

G . W S E PT I M U S
. P I ES S E .
 THE ART OF PERFUMERY .

I NTRODUCTI ON AND HI STORY .

SEC TIO N I .

By N atu r e s swift and secr et wor k i ng hand

’

T h e ga r den glows and fills th e liber al ai r

,

Th er e l et m e dr aw
E th er eal soul th er e dri nk re vivi ng gal es
, ,

P r ofuse ly br eathing fr o m the spicy gr ov es

A n d val es of fragr ance . T H O MS O N .

A M ON G th e nu m rous gr ati fi c ati o n s d er ive d fro m

e

th e cultivation of flow ers that of r ea r ing th e m for

,

th e sak e of th eir p e rfu m es stands p r e e m in ent It is

-
.

p r ove d fro m th e old est r eco r ds that p erfu m es hav e

,

b een in u se fro m th e earli est p eriods Th e O rigin of .

this lik e that o f m any oth er ar ts is lost in the d e pth

, ,

of its antiquity ; though it h ad its ris e no d oubt in , ,

r eligious O bs erv anc es Am ong th e nations of n u

.

ti qu i ty an o ffe ring of p e rfu m es w as r egard ed as a

,

tok en of th e m ost p rofound r esp ect and hom age In .

2
14 r un ART or P s ar um s ar.

c e ns e o r Frankinc ense w hich exud es by incision

, ,

and dri es as a gum fr o m A r bor thum fer a, w as for m er ly

,

bu r n ed in th e t em pl es of all religions i n hono r o f ,

th e diviniti es that w ere th er e ador ed M any of th e .

pri m itive C h r istians w e re put to d eath b ecaus e th ey

w ould not offer inc e nse to idols :
The or igin O f per fu m er y P liny traces to th e E ast ; an d his Opinion
13 fully bor n e out by th e inspi r ed w r iter s wh o s e fr equ ent allusions ,

to per fu m es and ar o m atics p r ov e th e v er y ea r ly and e xtensiv e em

ploym ent o f th e luxu r y by nations in whose l and flou r ish th e aloe ,

cinnam on sandal wood cam pho r nutm eg and clov es ; the inc ens e
,
-
, , ,

tr ee which it was the sac r ed pr ivil ege o f th e S absei to gath er th e ,

bal sa m t r ees th e sor r owful n y c tcn thes which pour s for th its ri ch
,

Od o r s in th e twilight th e N i l ica in whose blossom s th e bees ar e said

,

to h um th em s elv es to sl eep an d th e sweet E l caya ; th es e an d a

, ,

forest of o th er s ar e the p ro per ty o f th e E ast and for ages w er e d is

, ,

r ega r ded by th e rest of th e wo r ld H o m er but twice allud es to an y

.

thing O f the sor t being in use am ong th e G r ee ks ; and centu ri es after

the J ews had bee n co m m anded to m ak e ince nse th e A th enians ,

w er e for bidden by S olon to use p er fu m er y A m ong th e L aced w .

m on i an e th e luxu r y was always discountenan ced

,
and perfu m ers ,

w er e expelled th e city as wasters O f O i l u pon th e sam e p r incipl e ,

that th ey dism issed al l who dyed wool because th ey d est r oyed its
white n ess In A th ens th e case was di fferent : i n spite o f Solon s
.
'

pro hibition a taste fo r per fu m er y gr ew s pace and its indulge nce ,

was br ought to a hi gh er pitch of r efin em ent than it has ev er eu

joyed befor e or since T hough the E ast suppli ed th e A th enians
.

with the m ost valu ed gu m s and O intm en ts th ey ad ded la r g ely to the ,

stock of fr agr ant plants alr eadyin use A pollon ius of H er Ophi l a.
, ,

w r ote a treat ise o n per fu m e : The i r is h e says is best at E l i e

”
, , ,

and at C y zic us ; pe r fu m e fr om r oses is m ost excellent at P hase lis ,

N apl es an d C apua ; that m ad e fr om c r ocuses is in high est per fection

,

at S ol i in C ilicia and at Rhodes ; the esse nce o f spik en a rd is best at

, ,

T an i us ; th e extr act of vi n e l eav es at C ypr us and at A d r am yt tiu m ;

-
,

th e best per fu m e fr om m arj o r a m and fr o m appl es co m es fr o m C os ;

E gypt bear s th e pal m fo r its essence o f C y pi r us and th e n ext best ,

is th e C ypr ian an d P h oenician and after th em com es th e S idonian

,

th e perf u m e call ed P an ath en ai c um is m ad e at A th ens ; and th ose

call ed M eto pi an an d M en d es i an ar e p r epar ed with th e g r eatest skill
16 THE AM or r aa r n m aav .

M i n er va goddess o f intell ect and vi r tu e as using

, and gym n as
, o il

tic ex er ci ses C h r ysippus sought in the der ivation of th e wor d an

.

obj ection to th e l uxur y ; but th e attem pt was so far fetch ed as fai r ly -

to expose h i m to th e sati re o f an anci ent wit that if th er e were no ,

physicians th ere would be noth i ng i n the wo r ld so stupid as gr am

,

m a r ians
”
.

Soc r ates di sappr ov ed of all per fum es Th er e is th e sam e sm ell

.
,

h e said, i n a slav e and a g entl em an wh e n bo th ar e per fu m ed

,
a
r em ar k that m ad e l ittl e i m p r ession u pon his pupil M achin es who ,

tu r n ed pe rfum er fell into debt and attem pted to bor r ow m on ey

, ,

upon th e str ength of his busin ess A l exand er th e Great w as m ore

.

attentiv e to th e r ebu k e o f hi s tuto r L eonides fo r his wasteful ex

, ,

u r e of in cen se in h is sac r ifi ces It would ti ”

e n di t b e m e for h i m
p .
,

his m aster told hi m “ so to wor ship wh en h e had conqu er ed th e

,

countr i es that p r oduced th e frankincense Th e ki ng r em em ber ed .

"

th e l esson ; an d wh en h e had tak e n possessi pn of A r a bia h e d e ,

spatc h ed a ca r go of fr an kinc ens e and m y r r h to his old tuto r .

Fr om G r eece p er fu m es quickly m ad e th ei r way to Ro m e ; and

although th ei r sal e was at fir st str ictly p r ohibite d th eir em ploy ,

m en t becam e m or e and m or e e xt r avagant until ev e n th e eagl es an d ,

standar ds w er e thought unfit to face th e bar bar i an hosts of N ort h

ern E u r op e unl ess th ey had b ee n duly anoin ted b e fo r e battl e ; and

should th e engagem ent hav e p r ov ed successful th e c er em ony was ,

r epeated . S uch was th e d em and fo r th e luxu r y that th e chi ef ,

s tr eet of C apua was occupi ed sol ely by per fu m e rs Th e incense .

bu r nt by N er o upon the fun er al py re of his wife P oppcsa exceed ed ,

th e annual p r oduction of spi ces in A r abia A t a r ath er e ar li er .

per iod P latui us P l an cus wh en pr esc r i bed by th e tr iu m vi rs was

, , ,

b etr ay ed by his per fu m es H i s pl ac e o f conceal m ent got wind

.
,

and discov er ed hi m to his pu r suer s * .

It is tim e that w e l eav e th es e classic sc en es , passing

ov er th e p e rfu m ed glov es and fatal cask ets p r epared
by B eat, th e ch em ist, astrologer, and p erfum er , fo r
th e use of his m istr ess , C ath er i n e d e M ed i oi s .

D escribing the sp ectacl es and A m phith eatr e at

“
Ro m e, G ib bo n f obs erv es , th e ai r of th e Am phi

Fu ser a M agaz in e’
.
1 V9] . ii chap xii p
, .
,
. 1 04.
 a r sr o a r . 17

th eatr e was continually r efresh e d by th e playing of

fountains and p r ofus ely i m pregnat ed by the gratefu l
,
”
sc e nt of a r o m atics .

In th e R o m ish C hu r ch inc ens e is u s ed i n m any

c erem oni es and parti cula rly at th e sol em n fun e r als
,

of the hi e rarchy and oth e r p e rsonage s of exalte d ,

Pliny m ak es a n ote of th e tree fr o m which fr ank

ince ns e is procu r ed ; and certain passag es in his wo rks
indicat e that dri ed flo wers w er e us e d in his ti m e by
way of pe r fu m e, an d that th ey w ere as now m ix ed , ,

with spic es a co m po u n d which th e m od e rn p e rfu m e r

, ‘

calls p ot p o ur r z us ed fo r sc enting apartm ents, and

’

g en er ally plac ed in so m e o r nam en tal vas e .

It was not unco m m on a m ong th e Egypti an lad ie s

to carry about th e p erson a littl e pouch of odo r ifer ous
gu m s as is th e cas e to th e p res ent d ay am ong the
,

C hin es e an d to w ear b ead s m ad e of sc e nte d wood

,
.

T h e bd e lliu m m ention ed by M os e s in G e n esis is

a p erfu m ing gu m r es e m bling fr ankinc ens e if n o t , ,

identical with it .

S ever al passages in Exodus and also in oth e r parts

of th e S c riptures p r ove th e u se of p er fu m e s at a v ery
‘
,

ea r ly p e riod a m ong the H ebr ews In th e thirti eth .

chap te r of Exodus th e L o r d said unto M os es

1 . thou shalt m ak e an alta r to bu r n incense upon ; o f S hit
A nd
ti m wood shalt thou m ak e it 7 A n d A ar on shall bur n th ereon . .

swee t inc en se every m or ning ; wh e n h e d resse th th e lam ps h e shall

bu r n inc ens e upon it 3 4 Tak e unto th ee swee t spic es sta cte
. .
, ,

xxxvii ; E xodus xxx ; P s cxxxiii ; E xodus xl ; N u m b

G en . . .

xvi ; 2 C h r on xxvi ; Is xx xix ; 2 C h r on ix ; C ant iv ; St M ar k

. . . . .

xiv ; Ps xlv ; Pr ov vii ; E st ii ; C ant i ; S t Joh n xix ; 2 Kings ix

. . . . . .

*
2
18 THE AM : or p aar fim s av .

and onycha and galbanu m ; th ese sweet spices with pur e fr ankin
,

cens e : of eac h shall th er e b e a lik e w eight 3 5 A n d thou . .

shalt m ak e it a per fum e a confecti on after th e ar t o f th e apo the

, .

car y * tem per ed rtogeth er pu r e and holy

,
-
3 6 A n d thou shalt
, . .

beat som e of it v er y s m all and put of it befor e th e testi m ony in th e

,

taber nacl e of th e c o n g r egr atio n wh er e I will m eet with th ee ; it ,

shall be unto you m ost holy 3 7 A n d as for th e p er fu m e which

. .

thou shalt m ak e ye shal l not m ak e to your selv es acco r ding to th e

,

com position th er eof ; it shall b e un to th ee holy for th e L or d .

38 Whosoev er shall m ak e lik e unto that to s m ell th ereto shall ev en

.
,

be cut o ff fr o m h i s peopl e .

It was fr o m this r eligious custo m o f em ploying inc en se i n th e ,

anci ent tem pl es that th e r oyal p r oph et d r e w that beautiful si m il e

,

o f his wh e n h e petition e d that his p r ay er s m ight asce nd b efo r e th e

,

L or d lik e inc ense It was whil e all th e m ultitude was pr aying

.

without at th e hou r of incens e that th er e appea r ed to Zachar y an

, ,

an gel of th e Lo r d sta nding on the r ight sid e of th e alta r of incen se

, .

( L uk e 1 : That t h e nations attach ed a m ea ning not only of ,

per sonal r ev er ence but also of r el igious hom age to an offer ing of
, ,

i ncense is dem onst r abl e fr om th e instanc e of th e M agi wh o hav

, , ,

ing fall en down to ador e the n ew bor n J esus and r ecogni z ed his -
,

D ivinity p r es ente d H i m with gold m y r r h and fr ankinc en se T h e

, , , .

p r i m itiv e C h r istia n s i m itated th e exam pl e of th e J ews and adopted ,

th e u se of inc e ns e at th e cel ebr ation o f th e L itu r gy S t E ph r sem . .

,

a fath er of th e S y r i ac C hu r ch di r ected in his will that no a r o m atic

,

per fu m es should be besto w ed upon hi m at h i s fun er al but that th e ,

spic es should r ath er be gi ven to th e sanctuar y Th e u se of incens e .

in all th e O r i ental C hu r ch es is p er petual and al m ost daily ; n or do ,

any o f th em ev er c el ebr ate th ei r L itu rgy without it unl ess com ,

p e l l ed by n ec essity Th e C optic as w ell as oth er E ast er n C h r is

.
,

tians obs er v e th e sa m e c er em onial as th e Latin C hu r ch i n inc on a

,

ing th ei r altar the sac red v ess els and eccl esiastical per sonages ];
, ,

In D r s D oyly and M ant s B ible this wor d apoth ecar y is

.
’ ’
,
”

italici z ed p e fum er r .

1 T e m p er ed
”
T h e sa m e w r it er s r end er this wor d sal ted that
.
,

is m ix ed with nitr e which is p r obably th e cor r ect inter pr etation

, , ,

because such a m ixtur e o f r esinous substances would not bu r n kindly

without being p r e viously tem per ed with saltpet re .

1 D n Roc x
.
’
s H i er u rgia .
 n r sr o ar . 19

Th e Rev . T . JBuckton d escribing

.
, the p r ecious
oin tm en t of th e Scri ptures , says

Th e sacr ed oil with which th e taber n acl e th e ar k of the co v e

, ,

nant th e gold e n candl estick th e tab l e the altar o f inc ense the alta r
, , , ,

o f bur nt o ffer in gs th e lav er and all th e sac r ed ute nsils and ind eed
-

, , ,

th e p r i ests th em s elv es w er e anointed was co m posed of a b i n of th e

, ,

oil of oliv es of th e r ich est m yr r h of cassia o f cin a n and of sweet

, , , n m o ,

ca l a m us Th e p r opo r tions o f th e m ixtu re w er e 600 pa r ts o f th e

.

m y rr h and cassia and 2 50 each o f th e cinna m on and cala m us

, This .

ointm ent could not be appli ed to an y oth er pur pos e ( E xod 30 : . .

20 T h e S eptuagint na m es o n e of th e ingr edi ents th e m y r r h , ,

a
p if
pw ): t X n which
x em co r
’

res ponds
, with th e m y r r h p i
p fl p fp of ,
r or a nr ov

M atth e w ( 26 d esc r ibed as m l kfic by M ar k ( 1 4 : and as m

" Mm : by Joh n Th e ointm ent p r obably p r epa r ed for

e
( 1 2
La zar us which his sister M a r y pour ed on th e h ead and body o f o ur
,

Lo r d consisted th erefo r e o f o n e only of the four ingr edi ents of th e

,

sac red oil in use in th e fi rst T em pl e J udas r epr eh end ed this anoint .

ing as p r actis ed at banquets as an ext r avagant luxu ry 8 0 M ar

, , .

tia l ( In xii 4) says : , ,

0
Qu i non coen at et un gi tu r , Fab ull e ,
H ie v re m ihi m
e ortu us vi d etur .
”

This vi ew was corr ected by o u r Lor d who says it was don e pr e ,

par ato r y to his e nto m b m ent ( M ar k T hus J ahn in ex .

,

plaining th e abov e passages in th e G ospels says : “ It was th ei r ,

custom to expe nd upo n th e d ead ar om atic substanc es especially , ,

m y r r h and alo es which w er e b r ought fr o m A r abia This ce re m ony

, .

is expr ess ed by the G r eek v er b b o éi ! to em bal m o r ento m b ] ra a t tv

'

and was pe r for m ed by the n eighbor s and r elations ”

.

In th e oth er cas e ( Luk e 7 : 3 7) th e m yr r h was only appli ed to

th e fee t of o ur Lo r d after washing and p r evious to par taking o f a ,

m eal —a co m m on p r actice o f antiqui ty and once per for m ed by o ur

, ,

Lo r d hi m self to his discipl es ; wh en how ev er no m ention is m ad e , ,

of anointing it be ing pr obably too costly fo r gen er al use A t

,
.

S pa r ta th e s elling of per fu m ed oint m ents was wholly p r ohibited ;

,

and i n A th ens m en w ere not allow ed to engag e in it D i fi ere n t

,
.
‘

ointm ents w ere used fo r di ffer ent pa r ts of the body — Es c n x m m ao ,

iii s 1 70
, . .
20 r an AM or r s ar n n s ar .

G ibbon *
says
In a m agnificent tem pl e r aised on P alatin e M ount th e sacr ific es
, ,

o f th e god E lagabalus ( th e sun w er e c el eb r ated with e v er y ci rc u m

) ,

stan ce of cost and sol em n ity Th e r ar est ar om atics w er e p r ofus ely

.

consu m ed o n his alta r .

H o rac e, in an o de
c el eb r ating the r etu rn of A ugus
tus fr om Spain , bids his slaves go and s eek fo r p er
fu m es and d esir es th e tun eful N es e ra to m ake haste
,

and coll ect into a knot h e r sc ented hair Th es e pas .

sag es sufii ci en tly indicate th e el egant direction which

th e taste of th e Ro m ans took in the days of this
po et who hi m s elf was a voluptuary in flowe rs an d
,

fr ag r anc es .

P er fu m es w er e us ed in th e C hu r ch s e rvic e not only ,

u nd er th e fo r m of inc ens e b ut al so m ix e d in th e oil ,

and wax fo r th e la m ps and lights co m m and ed to be

bu r n ed in th e hous e of the L o r d T he brilliancy and .

fr ag r anc e which w er e ofte n sh ed around a m a r tyr s ’

s epu lch r e at th e c el eb r ation of his fe stival by m ulti

, ,

tudes of la m ps and tap er s , fed with ar o m atics hav e ,

b ee n notic ed by S t Paulin us .

With c r owded la m ps ar e th ese b r ight altar s c r own ed ,

A n d wax e n tap er s sh edding pe r fu m e r ound

,

Fr o m fr agr ant wicks bea m cal m a scented r ay

, ,

T o gladd en night and j oy e en r adiant day 1

,
’
.

C onstantin e the G reat provid e d fr agr ant oils , to be

bu r n ed at the altars of th e gr eater church es in Ro m e ;
and S t Paulinus , of Nola , a writ e r of th e en d of th e
.

fou r th , and b eginning of th e fifth c entury , t ells us

D ecli n e and F all vol i c hap vi p

, .
, .
, . 28 4 .

1
'
D B Roc x
.
’
s H icr urgi a .
 n r sr o a r . 21

how , in his ti m es wax tap ers w ere m ad e for ch urch

,

u se, so as to sh ed fr ag r anc e as th ey bu r n ed

L u m ina c er ati s ado l e n tur odor a papy r is .

Gold , frankinc ens e and m y rr h in silken bags ar e

, , ,

still p r e s e nt ed on Tw el fth day at th e C hap el Royal -

i n St Jam es s Palac e Form erly th e o ffe ring was

.
’
.
,

m ad e by th e sov er eign in p e rson Th e D aily P ost .

n ewspap er on Thu r s d ay 7i h January , 1 742 , i n

, ,

form ed its r ead ers that :

Y est er day ,being Tw elfth d ay his M aj esty th e D u k e and P r in
-
, , ,

ceases w e nt in state to th e C hapel Royal assist ed at divin e s er vic e , ,

and du r ing th e o fi er to ry h is M aj esty advan ced to th e altar ; an d

‘

accor ding to th e anci ent custom o f the kings o f E ngland o fi er d ,

‘
’

th r ee pu r ses hll d with gold fr ankincens e and m yrr h i n co m

’
, , ,

m em o r ati on of th e p res ents m ad e by th e E as ter n M agi as on that

day at th e M an i festation .

At p r es ent, th e o ffer i n g is ad e by two p er sons m

conn e cte d with th e L ord C ham b erlain s o fli c e Th es e ’

.

gentl em en approach th e altar during th e r eading o f

th e o fi erto ry s e nt enc es ; and taking th e purs es said
‘

to contain th e go l d fr ankinc ens e and m yrr h plac e

, , ,

th em on the ai m s d ish , which is h eld forth for th ei r

-

r ec eption by o n e of th e officiating pri ests .

Afte r Edwar d th e C o nfesso r r esto r ed or rath er r e ,

built Westm inster Abb ey h e w as so d esi r ous of r en ,

d er ing th e A bb ey al m ost uniqu e in its attractions ,

that h e e ndowe d it with r elic s— in thos e days b eyond

all p r ic e A m ong th e s e w er e to b e noted h e re part
.

of th e frankinc ens e offer ed to Jesus by th e Eas ter n

M SS . of the ti m e of H en r y III ; L u ar d ’
s L iv es o f E dwa r d th e
C o n fesso r .
22 r un an or r sar n n nar.

In accordanc e with an anci ent custo m , th e Pop e of

Ro m e ev ery y e ar bl ess es what is call ed the G old e n
Rose This flow er which is m ad e of th e purest gold
.
, ,

and orn am e nted with p r ecious ston es is r ubb e d with ,

bal m and inc ens e H i s H olin ess r ecit es v e r s es ex

.

plaining the m ystic m eaning o f th e b en ediction , after

which h e tak es it in his l eft hand , and th en bl ess es
th e p eopl e M ass is th e n c el eb rated in th e Sistin e
.

C hap el Th e gold r os e s are ordinarily s e nt to fem al e

.

sov er eigns , so m eti m es to p rinc es , and so m e ti m es ,

though rar ely , to towns an d co rporations ; the o n e of

last y ear was s ent to th e E m press of th e French , and
th at of th e y ear b efo r e to th e Q u ee n of Spain .

A p erfu m e in co m m on u se, e v e n to this clay w as ,

th e inv e ntion of o n e of th e e ar li est of th e Ro m an

nobl es nam ed Frangipani and sti l l b ear s his na m e ;
, ,

it is a powd er, or sach et , co m posed of ev ery known

spic e, in equal propo r tions to which is add ed ground ,

iris o r orr is root in w eight e qual to the whol e with

, ,

o n e p er c ent of m usk and civ e t

. A liquid of th e .

sam e n am e, inv ent ed by his g randson M er cuti o

F r an gipani , is also in co m m on u se p r epar ed by di ,

g eeting the Frangipan e powd e r i n rectifi ed spiri ts ,

which dissolv es out the fragrant principl es This .

has th e m erit of b eing th e m ost lasting p erfu m e

m ad e .

N otes and Queri es r ec e ntly publish ed an articl e o n

”
T h e origin of Fran gipani , which has su ffici ent i a
t e rc et for us to transfer th e m atter to th es e pages .

Th is is the nam e o f a com position sold as a per fu m e and which ,

o f late th r ough th e enter p r is e o f its v e ndo rs has been p r esse d o n

, ,

th e attention of the public th r ough th e adv er tising colu m ns o f o u r

n ewspapers per iodicals & c T he o r igin of the ter m seem s wo r thy
, , .
24 r an an or P s ar um s av .

m uch how ev er is cer tain that var ious co m positions as p om m ade

, , , , ,

essen ce and p ow der

,
d istinguish ed by the nam e of Fr an gip a n i o r
,

h angip am w ere sold by pe r fu m er s do w n to th e latter par t of the

,

last centu ry wh en th ey gr adually fell into disuse M C har l es

,
. .

P i esse a per fu m er of N ic e w as c er tainly at that per i o d th e m o st

, ,

cel ebr ated m ak er of E ss ence d e F r angipan e in E u r ope D u ri ng th e .

last few year s how ev er the nam e h as again found i ts way into th e
, ,

list of per fu m es and Fr a ngip a n i is now sold m o r e than it p r obably

,

e v er was befor e Th e f or m la: fo r th e v ar ious co m poun ds as P o m

. u ,

m ad e a la F r angipan e E sp r it d e F r angipan e &c ar e so utter ly

’ ‘ ’
, , .
,

disc r ep ant and hav e such sl ender pr ete nsions to r epr ese nt th e or igi
,

nal that it is n eedl ess to quote th em and I shall only r efer th e

, ,

r ead er who wish es fo r th em to th e wo r ks nam ed below * .

Th e subj ect of p erf um ed gloves which I m ay r em a r k hav e long ,

sinc e disapp ea r ed fr om use intr oduces us to so m e cu r ious par ti c u ,

lars r egar ding th e t r ades of glov er and pe r fum er S avar y i n his .

,

D ic ti o n n ai r e Un i ver sal de Cb m e r cs ( G en ev e et P a r is te lls us m ,

that th e glov er s of P ar is consti tute a consider abl e co m m unity ,

having statutes and laws d ating so far back as 1 190 Th ese statutes .
,

a fter r edei v i n g va r ious confi r m ations fr o m th e kings of F r anc e wer e ,

r e n ew ed confi r m ed and add ed to by L ouis X I V und er L e tter s

, , ,

P atent in M ar ch 1 6 5 6
, T h e glov e r s ar e th ere in styl ed M a r ch
, .
‘

ands M ai t r es G anti ers P a r fu m eu rs In th ei r capac ity of glov er s

-
.
’ '

th ey h ad th e r ight of m aking and selling glov es and m itte ns of all

so r ts of m ater ials as w e ll as th e skins used in m aking g lov es ; whil e
,

as p er fu m er s th ey enjoy ed th e p r ivilege of perfu m ing glov es and ,

of selling all m ann er o f p er fu m es P er fu m ed skins w er e i m po r ted .

fr om S pain and Italy and wer e used fo r m aking glov es pu r ses , , ,

po uch es &c ; th ey w er e v er y exp e nsiv e and fo r t a la m od e but

, .
‘
,
’

th ei r pow er ful odor l ed to th ei r disus e as glov es b ut n ev er th el ess , , ,

‘
P eau d E spagn e i s in consid e r abl e d e m and fo r per fu m ing l etter
’ ’

pape r Th er e w er e issu ed to th e pu blic fr o m th e L abo r ato ry o f

.
,

F lower s in N ew B ond S t r eet last y ea r 1 8 08 pi ec es of four inch es

, , ,

squar e With r egar d to glov es Sava r y r em ar ks :

.
,

Il s en ti r o i t aut r efois quantité d e pe r fu m es d E sp agn e et d e

‘ ’ ’

Ro m e ; m ais l eu r fo r t e od eu r d e m use d a m b r e e t d e civ ette qu on ,

'
,
’

n e po u v o i t soute n i r sans inco m m odité a fait qu e la m od e et l usage

’

C el n ar t, N ouveau M a nuel eon zp lete d a P arf um eur , P a r is , 1 8 54,

1 8m o ; Pi esse , A r t o
.
f Perf u m ery , ondon , 1 8 56 , 8 v o L .
 n r sr o a r . 25

sont pr esqu e per dus ; plus esti m és d e

'

’
c en l es ces Gan s eto i en t l ee
G ans d e Fr an chi pan e et can : do
M an y
c ipts are ex te n t fo r the per fu m ing o f glov es an d
re e ,

though som e o f th em ar e cur ious th ey ar e too l engthy for m e to ,

quo te m ore than th e titl es Her e in th e Secr eti dc la S igno r a Isabel l a

.
,

Car i ssa m qu al i si con tm gon o Oose M m er ali , M ed ic i n al i , Ar tific i osc ed

’ '

A l c hi m ic l w, c m al ts dc l Ar tc P r of um a tor i a , app ar tm m ti a aym gr an

’ ’

S ignm ia '
find di r ections fo r Oo n c i a di we
guanti p er fe tti ss i m a eo n m usco ed am br acan and agai n C oncia
’ ‘
, ,

di gr anti se n za m usco per fetta I hav e also befor e m e fr om an .

’
,

o l d F re nch wor k publish ed at L yons in 165 7 1 th e p r ecis e di r ectio n s

’

fo r C iv ette tr hs e xquise pou r per fu m er gan ds et en oindr e l es m ains .

’

In th ese com positions m usk am b er gr is and civ et wer e th e chi e f , ,

per fu m es ; and as th ey wer e appli ed i nsid e th e glov es co m bi n ed with ,

so m e so r t of oi l o r grease th ei r use at th e p r es ent day would b e

,

thought i ntol er abl e Th e glov es o f F r angipani were also p r epar ed

.

with gr ease as I think we m ay gath er fr om the fol lowi ng l in es o f

,

C er i san tes z:

Am i oe , nil m o si c u t ant esj

. uv at
P ul vero v ol Cyp i r o

C o m am n i ton tem p ec ter o ;

Vo l qn as B ita n s t
r n u o x ui t sub ti l i t er

M il l s m od is va i es r

Jao taro v nti s tm n ias ;

e

Vo l qn am p aw ns i t
-
Fr angi pan os i psem et

Poll s , m an um gr ao il e m .

Cora m p si
u lla pr o m ere .
’

T he wor d Fr an c hip am o r Fr angip an a is appli ed in French , ,

cook er y to a so r t of pastr y c om pos ed o f al m onds c r ea m sugar & c , , , .

In th e W est Indi es it is used to designate th e fr uits o f P lum ier a

a lba L and P r ubr a L beca use acco rdi n g to M er at and D e L e ns !
.
, . .
, , ,

Tom e n , p . 6 19 .

1 Th ey fo rm par t o f an od e addr essed A d V i n cen tem V i c tu

r um
”
,
w hich m ay be found at th e en d o f th e L ati n l etters o f B al zac

M en agi o , Par is , 1 6 50 ,
Q D iet dc la M ati br c M ed ica le ,
. tom e v ,
405 .

3
 6 r an an or r e as o n s av .

on r etr ouv e dans ces fr uits m firs l e gout de n os fr an c hi p an es If .

’

th ese fr uits ar e eatabl e it is r em ar kabl e that n eith er S l oan e n o r

,

L unan m entio n s th e fact Fr angip an ier is how ev er the F re nch

.
, ,

—
nam e o f th e Pl m i cr aE D B
u
”
. .

O n e M er cutio F r angipani who liv ed in 1 493 w as a fam ous

, ,

bota n ist and tr av ell er fa m ous as be i n g o n e of th e C olu m bus ex pe

,

ditio n wh en th ey visited the W est India Isl ands Th e sailor s as .

,

th ey appr o ach ed A ntigua discov er ed a delicious fr ag r ance i n th e

,

ai r . This M er cutio told th em m ust be d eriv ed fr o m sw ee t s m ell

,
-

ing flowers O n landing th ey found vast quantiti es of th e P lu m i er a

.

A lba i n full bl o o m r end er ing th e ai r r edol ent with r ich odor and
, , ,

fr o m this plant which th e p r ese nt inhabitants o f A ntigu a call th e

,

Fr angipa ni flow er is d istilled that exquisite fr ag rance which is

,

n o w so papular i n fashionabl e ci r cl es .

T he tr ad e fo r th e E ast in perfum e d r ugs caused m an y a v esse l to

o

spread its sails to th e Red Sea and m an y a ca m el to plod ov er that

,

t r act which gav e to Gr eece an d Sy r ia th eir i m por tan ce as m ar k ets ,

and vitality to th e r ocky city of P etr a South er n Italy w as n o t .

long er e it occupi ed its elf in m inister ing to th e luxu r y of the w ealthy ,

by m anufactu r ing scented ungu ents an d p er fu m es So nu m er ous .

w ere th e U N GU E N T A B II o r per fu m ers that th ey ar e said to hav e ,

fill ed th e g r eat str eet of ancient Gam a — H er m a n n .

It w as a dic tum of the c el eb r ated B eau Bru m m ell

that no m an of fashion should u se p er fu m es but s end ,

his lin e n to b e wash ed and d r i e d on H am pstead

H eath Few subscrib e d to this arbit rar y m andate ;
.

and it c ertainly oppos ed all p r ec ed ent both in anci e nt ,

and m od er n ti m es T h e u se of ar o m atics in th e East

.

m ay b e dat e d fr o m th e r em ot est antiquity ; and eve n ,

at th e p r es ent day , to sprinkl e gu ests with r os e wate r -

and p erfu m e th em with alo es wood at th e close o f -

ev e ry visit is d eem ed a tok e n o f hospital ity and

,

fri en dship In that excell e nt book , which portr ays

.

th e do m estic life of the e a r ly O ri e ntals , The A r abian

Nights th er e w ill b e found s e v e ral passag es indicating
,
 a r s r o a v. 27

th e of p erfu m es ; thus in th e story of The B ar ber s ’

u se

S econd B r other who finding hi m s elf e ntic ed into the

,

palac e of th e G r and V i z i er s lad y to b e m ad e a spo r t

’

and fool of fo r h er a m us em ent , had his eyebr ows p ain ted

li ke a wom an his b eard shav ed o ff and was then p er
, ,

f um ed wi th wood f
o c lass and r ose wa ter A rabia is
-
th e .

country of p erfum es ; an d in m o r e anci ent ti m es it

was th e p r actic e to k eep th em in sh ells which w er e ,

th r own u p la rge an d b eautiful on th e shores of th e

Red S ea H orac e allud es to the sa m e practic e as
.

p r e val ent at Ro m e wh e n h e flourish ed :

F unde c apaci bu ’

U ngu enta d e conchis .

Again h e sings
F ill up olish ed bowls with oblivious
th e p m usic ; pou r o ut the
per fu m ed ointm en t fro m the ca pacious sh ells .

P erfu m es w ere also thought to k eep w ell in v ess els

m ad e of alabaster Pliny explains the shap e of th es e
.

v essels by co m paring th em to th e p earls call ed el enchi ,

which are known to hav e b ee n shap ed lik e p ears In .

hot cli m ates fragran t oils disp e rs ed unpl easant odo rs

which h eat is apt to g en erate, an d thus b ecam e e ss e n
tial to th e enj oy m ent of social life Th e po e ts of .

G r eec e and Ro m e w e r e loud in th e p r ais e of p e rfu m es .

Thus A nac r eon ( O d e X V) ex el ai m s :

L et y hai
m r with ungu ents flo w ,

With r osy gar lands cr own m y br ow .

Th e agic pow er o f M e d e a consist ed i n h er skill

m

as a p er fu m er and as an inv e nt r ess of war m vapor

,

baths M r B elo e says of h er that she fi rst of all di s

. .

cove red a flowe r which could m ak e th e color o f the

28 ran an or PE B FU M E R Y .

hair bl ack or whit e : su ch , th erefore, as wish ed to

hav e black hair instead of white by h er m eans o h ,

tai n ed th eir wish .That the professors of th e m edical

art m ight not discov er h er s ecrets sh e us ed fo m enta ,

tions in h er baths in s ec r et Th ese m ad e m en m or e

.

activ e, and i m prov e d th eir h ealth ; and as h er app a p

ratus consisted o f a cald r on wood , and fi r e it was, ,

b eli ev ed that h er pati ents w ere in r eality boil ed .

P elias an old an d in fi rm m an , using this op e ration ,

,

di ed in th e proc ess .

But th es e prac tic es w ere not confin ed to O ri ental

n ations ; for H e rodotus ( M elpo m en e, c lxxv) says : .

“
Th e Scythian wo m e n bruis e und er a sto n e so m e
wood of th e cypres s, c edar and frankincens e ; upon
,

this th ey pour a quantity of water till it b eco m es of a

c ertain consistency, with which th ey anoint th e body
and th e fac e This at th e ti m e i m parts an agr eeabl e
.

odor, and wh en r em ov ed on th e following day giv es

”
th e skin a soft and b eautiful app earanc e In th e .

athl eti c ex ercis es of th e O lym pic gam es w r estl ers and ,

pancratists always anointe d th eir li m bs to r end e r

th em m ore suppl e In G r ee c e th e p e rfu m es of Ath e ns
.

w ere m ost esteem ed , as w e l earn fro m a curious p as

sag e pres erv ed i n A th en seu s from a fr agm ent of th e
,

writings of A n ti phan es an d th e whol e m ay am us e

,

m y r ead ers . It runs thus , showing fro m what coun

tri es difi er en t d egrees of exc ell ence w ere obtain e d in
'

“
his ti m e : A cook from E l i e ; a caldr on fro m A r
gos ; win e o f Phl i us ; tap estry of C orinth ; fish fr om
Sicyon ; ch eese fro m Sicily ; th e p erfu m es of Ath ens ;
”
and the eels of B m o ti a .

Sir John Bowring says that so m e porc elain jars

w ere found in th e adj ac ent ru in s to the Pyram ids ,
 n r sr o a x . 29

which contain ed cos m etics and p erfum es three to four

thousand y ea r s o l d ; th es e jars bo r e C hin es e i n scr ip
ti ons th e sam e w hich h e has sinc e tr ac ed am ong th e
,

C hin es e po ets of about th e e a rli er p e riod .

In th e L i ves of the Queens of E nglan d w e read

P er fu m es w er e n ev er rich er , m o r e elaborate m ore ,
”
costly or m or e d elicate than i n th e r eig n of Eli z ab eth .

H er M aj esty s nasal o r gans w er e particular ly fin e ;

’

an d nothing ofi en d ed h er m ore than an u npl easant

’

s m ell P e rfu m es and cosm etics of al l kinds w e re i n

.

ge n e ral u se Th e cosm etics and oth er s m all er se

.

c esso ri es to a lady s toil e t w e r e k ept in box es st r o n gly

’

i m p r egnated with so m e favorite odo r and w e re call ed ,

sw eet c ofi e rs
‘

This te rm p e rp etually occu rs i n

.

th e old write rs ; th ey w e re r e ckon ed a n ec essa ry part

of the fu rn itu r e of al l stat e b ed cham b ers , and a fai r
-

cri t erion by th eir fo rm and r ichn ess , of th e taste and

,

lib e rality o f the own er Th e bottl es of p er fu m e con

.

n ec te d with th e co m m on labors o i th e toil e t w e r e

diall ed casting bottl es ”

T h e po m and e r which origi
.
,

n ally w as m eant on l y as a pr ev e ntiv e of infe ction as ,

a ca m pho r—bag is n o w , b u t b ecam e an articl e of fash

i o n abl e luxu ry a m ongst p eopl e of r ank , was a li ttl e
ball of p er fu m ed paste wo r n i n th e pocket, or hung
r ound t h e n eck Th ey soon b ecam e m ediu m s for th e
.

m ost exquisite d e vic es in j e w el ry , and w e re frs

qu e ntly o ffer ed as co m pli m entary tok ens lik e the ,

snu ff box es of th e p r es ent day M any po m a n d er s

-
.

w ere p re s e nte d to Q u ee n Eli z ab eth as n ew y ear s -

’

gi fts an d am ong th e list is the som ewhat pu zz ling

,

ite m of
A far y e gi rdle o f pom and er
.
”

P e rfu m ed glov es w e re also fashionabl e .

x
3
30 ran an or r s as n n s ar .

Eli z ab eth had a cloak of Spanish p e rfu m ed l eath er ,

th e val u e of which m ay b e esti m ate d by stating that
pi ec es of P eau d E sp agn e ar e now sold by th e
’

Bond Street p erfu m ers of L ondon at th e rate of o n e

shil ling th e square inch ; ev e n h er sho es w e re p er
fu m ed T h e city of cours e soon i m itate d th e fashio n
.

of th e court as is appare nt from fr equ ent allusion by

,

th e dram atic writers of th e ti m e .

Th e exte nsiv e an d fr ee u se m ad e of ess enc es and

sc e nts at this per iod gav e rise to n u m erous satiri c al
obs er vations by th e authors of th e day I n A NSTEY S .
’

N ew B ath G uida— Bath th e n b e co m ing th e focus of

ev e rything r efi n e d and fashionabl e

B ri ng ,oh br ing the essence pot i

A m be r m usk and b er gam ot
, , ,

E au d e chipr e eau d e lu ce
, ,

S anspar eil an d cit r on j uice .

A s an indication of th e spirit of th e ti m es of th e
latter part of th e s ev en teenth c entury, w e m ay h e r e
m ention that an A ct was introduc ed into th e English

Parliam e nt, in 1 770

That all wom en o f whatev er age r ank pro fession o r degr ee

, , , , ,

wh e th er v i r gins m aids or widows that shall fr om and after such

, , , ,

A c t i m p ose up on sed uce and be t r ay into m at r i m ony any o f H i s

, , , ,

M aj esty s subj ects by th e scents paints cosm eti c was hes a tific ial
’
, , , ,
r

teeth f alse hai r S panish wool ( wool i m p r egnated with car m in e and
, , ,

used to this day as a r oug e) i r on stays hoo ps high h eel ed shoes

, , ,
-
,

bolster ed hips shall incu r th e pen alty o f th e law n o w i n for c e

,

against witc hc r aft and lik e m isdem eanor s and that th e m arr i age , ,

upon conviction sh all stand nul l an d void

,
”
.

In NICHOLS S P rogr ess of Queen

’
E li zabeth, h e m en

tions th at at Haw kstead , am ong th e ro o m s on the

32 m s e ar or r e as o n s av .

an d nutm egs w er e k ept in gr eat c pen ch ests all along o n e sid e o f

th e r oo m I found so m ething so r evi vi n g by th e per fum ed air , that
,

I took notic e o f it to the com pany with m e which was a gr eat deal , ,

and th ey all wer e se nsibl e of th e sam e effect which is e nough to ,

show th e pow er o f sm ells and th ei r oper ati ons both upon th e h ealth
and hu m or .

Thanks to S tow w e ar e acquainted with th e exact ,

p e riod at which p e rfu m es w ere introdu c ed into Eng

l and .

M i ll en ers haber dash er s h e says had not th en an y glov es

or , ,

i m br o yd er ed o r t r i m m ed with gold o r silk e ; n eith er could th ey

m ak e any co stly wash o r pe r fu m e until a bout t he fifteenth y ears of
,

th e qu ee n ( E li z abe th ) th e Right H onou ra bl e E dwa r d d e V er e

, ,

E a r l of O xfo r d ca m e fr o m Italy and b r ought with h i m glov es

, , ,

sweets bagges a per fu m ed l eath er j er kin an d oth er pl easant things ;

, ,

and that yecre th e quee ne had a pai r of p er fu m ed gloves tr i m m ed ,

only with fou r tufi es o r r os es of co lou r ed silk : the queen s took such
‘

pl easu re in th ose glov es that sh e was pictur ed with those glov es

,

upon h er han d es and for m any y eer es after it was called the E ar l
,
“

o f O xfo r d s pe r fu m e
’ ”
.

Th e
’
old co m edi es of Eli z ab eth s ti m e ar e full of
allusions to oils and ess enc es quintess enc es , po m a ,

tu m s , p erfu m es an d paint , white and r ed,

S trutt .

quote s a M S r e c eipt of this date to m ake th e fac e of

.

a b eauti ful colo r A p er son d esi r ous of i m p r oving

.

his co m pl exion was to b e plac e d in a bath , that h e

m ight p e rspir e fr e el y , and after w ard s to wash his
“
fac e with win e and so should h e b e both faire and
,
”
ruddy . T h e Ea r l of Sh r e w sbury who h ad char g e ,

of th e unfortunat e Q u ee n of Scots m ad e an applic a ,

tion for an inc r eas ed allowan c e on th e g r ound of h er ,

exp ensiv e habit of bathing in win e G e n e rally eld e r .

,

b eau ties bath ed in w in e ; th e you n g on es w ere con

 n r sr o a x . 33

tente d with m ilk M ilk baths w ere in th e h eight o f

.

fashi on in C harl es th e S ec ond s r eign ’

But th e at
.

t em pt thus to ch eat Ti m e of his wrinkl es was vain ;

th e would b e fair on es w e r e driv e n in d espair to con
-

c eal what th ey found it i m po ssibl e to r em ove and ,

patch es b ecam e th e rag e .

Th e anci e nts indulge d in p e rfu m es m uch m or e

luxuriously tha n w e do M r Sidn ey Whiting in
. .
,

h is im aginative and scholarly production , Hel i o n dé

“
,
”
or A dventures in the Sun , fancifully d escrib es th e
inhabitants of that orb as sustainin g life sol ely upon
sw eet sc ents .

C urious as ar e th e r ecords of th e indulgenc e o f

for m e r ages in cosm etics and arom atics it has c er
,

tai n ly b een r es erv ed fo r o ur own ti m e to p erfect th e

sc i enc e of p erfum ery Within the laboratory of th e
.

p erfu m er ch em istry now holds a r ecogni z ed plac e,

,

and acr es of so m e of th e fairest spots in Eu r op e and

Asia ar e d evo ted to th e cultivation of flow e rs whos e
fragranc e is no longer waste d on th e d es ert air but ,

p r es erv ed for th e enj oym ent o f al l who choos e to

p ur chas e it .
34 r an an or r e as o n s ar
-
.

SE C TION II .

U nbidd en a th shall wr eathing flow ers b r ing

e r ,

A n d fr agr ant h er bs th e p r o m is es of sp r ing ,

A s h e r fi rst o fi er i n g to th e r uling king

'

D B YD E N Vi r gil
’
B .

A s an art i n England , p e rfu m ry has attain ed littl e e

or no distinction This has aris en fro m thos e who .

follow it as a tr ad e m aintaining a m yste rious sec r esy

about th eir p roc ess es No m anu factur e can ev er b e .

com e great or i m po r tant to th e co m m unity that is

carri ed on und er a v eil of m ystery I am rath er of .

th e G re cians m ind , who onc e a y ear wrote in th e

’

t em pl e of xE seul api us all th e cu r e s th ey had p er

form ed and by what m eans th ey h ad effected th em !
,

O n th e subj ect o f tr ad e m yster y I will only obs er v e that I am ,

convinc ed that it would be far m or e to the inter est of m an u fac

ture rs if th ey w er e m or e wi lling to p r ofit by th e ex per i ence o f
oth er s and l ess fea r ful and j ealous o f th e supposed sec r ets o f th ei r
,

c r aft It is a gr eat m istak e to think that a successful m anu fac tu rer

.

is o n e w h o has car efully p res er v ed th e sec r e ts o f his tr ad e o r that ,

peculi ar m od es o f effecting si m pl e things p r oc esses unknown i n ,

oth e r fac to r i es and m yster i es beyond the com preh ension of the
,

vulgar are in any way ess e nti al to skill as a m anufactu r er o r to

, ,

success as a tr ad er —P aor nsso a S O LLY

. .

In the da r k ages it was always a sec ret a m yster y o r a cr aft i n , , ,

th e hands o f a guild a p r ofession o r a fr ater nity of so m e so r t o r

, ,

oth er In th ose days wisd o m pr ey ed upo n i gnor ance and nobody

.
,

car ed to kno w anything e xcept as a m eans o f ov err eaching his

n eighbo r Sci ence being th us divo rced fr om Reaso n and r obbed
.
, ,

o f its innoce nce so to s peak was v er y natu r ally trea ted as a speci es
, ,
 r a an s m x sr s a v. 85

of witc hc r aft and a m an who stol e a m ar ch o n th e av er age intellect

,

o f th e day w as not unfr equ e ntly bu r nt fo r a d eal er in th e black ar t .

It is w el l known that m any who so sufi e r ed had to thank th em '

selves fo r th e d elusion which pr ov ed fatal to th em as th ey h ad p ur ,

o s el y m ysti fi ed th e i r knowl edg e o f natu re Th s c ts in

p e re ar e e r e .

th ese days m any o f which ar e as h ighly pr i zed and as j ealously

,

guar ded as th e s ec r ets of m edi aeval ar t Y et an atm osph er e o f .

s ec r ecy is not gen er ally conduciv e to public i m pr ov em ent o r ev en ,

to p r ivate advantag e Th e fi r st m anufactur er s o f th e ago hav e n o

.

sec rets Th ey ar e r eady to show th ei r wor ks to any r espectabl e

.

st r ang er ; and ev en if th ey hav e gai n ed upo n th ei r n eigh bors in

,

so m e device fo r the econom y o f labo r o r m ater ial th ey won t keep ,

’

it to th em selv es Th ey tr ust to an i m pr oving spi r it and to an

.
,

e n er gy always in advance r ath er than to th e e xclusiv e poss ession

,

o f this o r that littl e dodge S m all peopl e don t und er stand this
“ ” ’
. .

Th ey ar e always loo king o ut fo r th e t r ick which is to ope n th e doo r

o f for tun e and show th e r oyal r oad to in e xhaustibl e w ealth
, .
*

If th e hor ticulturists of England w ere instr ucte d

bow to coll e ct th e odors of flow er s a n ew branch of ,

m an ufactur e would spring up in so m e of our wa r m

coloni es to v i e with ou r n eighbo r s skill in it ac r oss

,
’

th e C han n el .

Ti m e was wh e n in th e still r oom ,

distill ed water s -

“ ”
and cor dials w er e d r awn and disp ens ed as sp ecifics
fo r m aladi es to gu e sts and d ep end ents , but n ow this
practic e is out of u se b e caus e th ey can be pu rc has ed ,

ch eap e r than th ey can be m ad e at ho m e ; n ev er th e

.

l ess th e stil l r oom m aid p r e s er v es h er nam e though

-

ra r ely r equir ed to p erform h er anci e nt d u ti esq ‘

Ti m es , Oc t 8 1 , 1 8 55
. .

1 To xpect th e r evival of this par t o f dom estic econom y would

e

be abs ur d y et w e m ust say that a do m estic labo r ato r y attach ed to

,

t h e con ser vato r y would p r ov e highly instr uctiv e and a m using To .

thos e ev en who hav e no conser vato r y w e would y et advis e to set a ,

r oo m apa r t i n th ei r m ansions wi th th e titl e of labo r ato r y o r

“ ”
, ,

th e anci ent o n e of still r oo m H er c exp er i m ents m ay b e m ad e

-
"
.
,
86 r un e ar or r s a r n n s ar .

O f our fi v e s ens es , that of SM E LLIN G has b ee n tr eated

with co m parativ e indifferenc e H ow ever , as knowl .

edg e p r ogress es , th e var ious faculti es with which th e

C r eato r has thought p r op e r i n H i s wisdo m to e ndo w

m an wi ll b eco m e d ev elop ed and th e faculty of S m ell
,

ing will m eet with his shar e of tuition as w ell as

Sight H earing Touch , and Tas te
, , .

“
St Paul t el ls the C orinthians that th er e should
.
,

b e no schis m in th e body b ut that th e m em b ers ,

should hav e th e sam e care o n e for anoth er A nd .

wh eth e r o n e m em b er sufi er all th e m e m b e rs su ffer

'

with it ; or o n e m em b er be honored all th e m em b er s

r ejoic e in it ; nay m uch m o r e thos e m em b e rs which
,

seem to b e m ore feeble are n ecessary If the whol e .

body w ere an ey e wh er e w er e th e h eari ng !if the

,
”
whol e w ere h earing W h er e w e r e the s m elling !
,

Th es e argu m ents app ear so concl usiv e in favor of a

j ust and prop er esti m ation o f th e valu e of s m elling ,

that it would s eem i m possibl e to n egl ect it without

bod ily su ffering as a cons equ en ce .

Practically the author has always found it so

,

a m ong th e lowe r ord e rs bad s m ells ar e littl e h eed ed ;

,
”
in fact nos es hav e th ey bu t th ey s m ell not ; and
, ,

th e r esult is , a continuanc e to liv e in an atm osph er e

c nts distill ed and an acquaintanc e cou r te d with com m on

s e ,
“

things without in ter fer ing with oth er peopl e o f th e establish m ent
”
, ,

m aking a m ess about th e hous e Th e am ount o f inst r uction

”
or .

that can be der iv ed fr om a p ri vate labo r ator y is far m o r e than at

fi r st sight can be conceiv ed and th e enter tain m ent changeabl e as
, ,

a kal ei d osc Ope is intell ectu ally consider ed i n m easur abl y super io r
,

eith er to c r och et o r B er lin wo r k T h e d eli cate m anipulations o f

.

ch em ical exper i m ents ar e w ell even b etter suited to th ei r physical

, ,

pow ers than to th e ste r n er sex and to th e ladi es th erefor e w e co m

, , ,

m end th e ch ar g e o f beco m ing th e c he

f s o f th e m od e r n still r oo m -
.
 VA LU E or wa s s e n se or S MELLING . 87 .

lad e n with poisonous odors , wh e reas any o n e with

th e l eas t pow er of s m elling r e tain ed shuns su ch odors ,

as th ey would any oth er thing that is vil e or p er ni

”
c io us
. In the public schools co m m on things ar e
n o w b eing taught ; to co m pl et e th e id e a youth m ust ,

b e instr u cted th at, wh e n th e nos e is o fl en d ed th e

'

body will indi r ectly suffer If th ey ar e not taught to

.

know by nam e ev ery odo r that th ey s m ell , th ey can

at l east b e m ad e fa m iliar with th e d ead ly effe cts of
sulphu retted hy d r o gen an d oth e r of th e put r esc ent
,
'

gas es , and so avoid th em in futu r e life .

Th e influ enc e of this s ens e ov er th e fra m e is v er y

r em a rkabl e : o n e odor will ins tantly p r oduc e loathing,
nau sea and vo m iting anoth er has a part in p r oduc
, ,

ing an exhilarating effect upon th e m i nd such as th e ,

frag r anc e of th e country ai r on a sp r ing m o r ning o r ,

th e sw eet sea br eez e lad en with th e b r o m i n i c odo r s

-

fr o m str and ed w eeds T h e fi rst s m ell of th e sea to a

.

lands m an wond e r fully affe cts the n ervous system .

T he frag r anc e of th e fi elds i n hay m aking ti m e a -

walk i n a gard e n at evening s clos e all p r oduc e an

’
,

exhilarating effe ct upon th e m ind .

O dors ar e capabl e of a v ery wid e di ffusio n so m uch ,

so that o n e can scarc ely c r edit that at all ti m es odo r

,

n e c e ssa r ily i m pli es m at e riality It s eem s that in

.
,

nu m e r ous instanc es odor acts as an i m pond er abl e

,

agent , rath er than physical m atte r It is cl ear that .

c er tain m att e r s p r oduc e c er tain odors b u t it is not ,

e qually d efini te that th e m at te rs in qu estion ar e th e m

s elv es th e odo r s M y vi e w o f th e eas e induc es m e to

.

conclud e that w e can b est und er stand th e tru e th eo ry

of odor by vi ewing it as an i m pond erabl e age nt af ,

4
. 88 r an an or r e a s o n s av .

footing th e n ervous system , as color affects th e ey e,

an d soun d th e ear .

The analogy which exists b e tw ee n colo r and sound

h as long b een ad m itt ed Th e anci e nts felt th eir con
.

n ec ti o n wh e n th ey id entifi ed th e m usical ga m ut as th e

c hr om atic scal e .Bacon , and n u m erous write rs since

his ti m e , hav e w r itt en u pon this subj ect, and so m e
have attem pted to show that th e har m ony o f colors
agr ees with th e m elody of th e scal e .

G B A ll en , M u s Bac has written s ev e r al pap ers

. . . .
,

in the M usical Wor ld, O n th e A nalogy existing b e

tw een M usical S cal es and C olors wh e rein h e shows
that all com pos er s of m er it hav e p er c eption of this
analogy , and which is appar ent in al l th eir wo r ks .

Fi eld , in his chr om a tics, a rr anges th e scal e thus :

and prov es th e analogy by th e following : A s th e

th r ee p r i m ary colors blu e r ed y el l ow in co m bina
, , , ,

tion , o r contr ast , p r oduc e th e m ost p er fect har m ony ,

so do th e sounds Do M i Sol T h e m etr o ch r o m e

, , , .

and the m onochord also prov e th eir exact agreem ent .

By this first instru m ent w e discover that in pu re

white light th e re are eight d eg r ees of blu e , fi v e of
r ed , and th r ee of y ellow A nd by the latter that
.

eight parts of a string will giv e Do fi v e M i and th r ee , ,

Sol This ag reem e nt is cu r ious , an d p roves th e

.

existe nc e of som e univ e rsal law of h ar m ony .

Sc e nts like sounds app ear to influ e n c e th e olfeo

, ,

tory n e rve in c ertain d efinite d egrees Th er e is , as .

it w er e , an octav e of odors lik e an octav e in m usic ;

c ertain od ors coincid e like the k eys of an instr u m ent
, .
40 THE ART or r s ar u m s ar .

The odors of so m e flowe rs r esem bl e oth e rs so

n ear ly , that w e ar e al m ost i nduc e d to b eli e v e th e m

to b e th e sam e thing , or at l e ast if not e volv ed fr o m

,

th e plant as s u ch , to b eco m e so by th e action of th e

air oxidation It is known that so m e actually ar e
-
.

id entical in com position , altho ugh produc ed from

totally different plants , such as cam phor turp entin e , ,

ros em ary H enc e w e m ay presu m e that ch em ist ry

.

will so on er or later produc e o n e from th e oth e r for ,

with m any it is m erely an atom of water or an ato m

of oxyge n that caus es th e di ffere nc e It would be a .

grand thing to produc e otto of ros es fro m oil of rose

m ary , or fr o m th e ros e ge raniu m oil ; and th eo ry i n
di c ates its possibility .

T h e ess e ntial oil of al m onds in a bottl e that con

tains a good d eal of ai r oxygen , and but a v ery littl e
-

of the oil , spontan eously pass es in to anoth er o d o ri fer

o us body , b en z oic acid ; which is s e en to fo rm in crys
t als ov er th e dry parts of th e flask This is a natural .

il lustration of this id ea .

”
To th e unl ear n ed nos e all odo r s are alike but ,

w h en tutored , eith er for pl easure or p rofit, no m em

b er of th e bo dy is m or e s ensitive Win e m erch ants.
,

tea brok e rs , drug d eal er s tobacco i m port e rs and

-

, ,

m any oth e rs hav e to go th r ough a r egular nasal ed u

,

os tional cours e A hop m er chant buri es his nos e

.

into a pock et tak es a sn i fi and th en s ets his price

'

, ,

u pon th e bitte r flow er .

Th e o dors hav e to be r em em b ered , and it is note

worthy h e re to r em ark with what p ersiste nc e odors
do fix th em s elv es upon th e m em ory ; and w er e it n o t
for this r em em b r ance o f an odor, the m erchants in
th e trad es abov e i ndicate d would soon b e at fault .
 on o as B EMEMB E B ED . .
41

An e xp e ri e nc ed p e rfu m er will hav e two hundred

od o r s in his laboratory , and can distinguish ev ery
o n e by na m e C ould a m usician with an instru m ent
.
,

of two hund red note s distinguish and nam e any note

,

st r uck without his s eeing the instru m ent !

,

In th e following gam ut I hav e e nd eavore d to plac e

th e nam e of th e odo r in its position corr esponding to
its effe ct on o ur s e ns es .

I hav e pu r posely chos e n thos e odors which ar e

m o r e e sp e cially us e d in p e rfu m e ry , but I wish it to

b e und e rstood that all odors , fro m whate v er sou r c e

d eriv ed , m ay b e si m ilarly classifi ed I know of n o .

odo r in a ch em ical laboratory and th ey ar e pretty

,

n u m er ous to which I c oul d not assign its corr e

,

spo n d i n k ey
g .

Th e re ar e odor s to which n eith er sharps nor flats

ar e known , an d th er e ar e oth er s which would al m ost

fo rm a gam ut in th em s elves by th eir vari ety of di f

fer en c e s .T h e m ost nu m e r o us class of od ors in na
tu r e ar e of th e l em on characte r .

If a p erfu m er d esires to m ake a bouqu et fro m pri m

i ti v e odo rs h e m ust tak e such odo r s as cho r d to
,

geth e r the p e rfu m e will th e n b e harm onious In

,
.

passing th e ey e down th e gam ut it will b e se en what

is har m ony and what is a disco r d of s m ells A s an .

arti st would bl e nd his colors so m ust a p er fu m e r

,

bl end his sc e nts .

42 THE ART or r s s r u m nar .

E V er be na .

D C itr on ella .

P in eappl e .

P epp er m in t .

M agnolia .

C ed r at .

Al m ond .

S outh er nwood .

V er nal G r ass ( n ew Hay )

.

O r ang e F lower .

E A cacia .
esu nr or cr oss . 43

M usk .

H el i o tm pe .

S tocks and P inks .

P lu m er ia A lba ( Fr angipani P lan t )

.
44 T HE sa w or r s n r um s ar.

In m aking s eve ral p erfu m es fo r choic e th ey m ust

b e so m ix e d as to fo r m a contrast wh e n sid e by sid e .

T h e co m pl em entary of vanilla is citr on ella Th e .

following r ecip es wil l giv e an id ea how to m ak e a

bouqu et acco r ding to the laws of harm ony :

P er gal ari a .

Sw eet P ea .

V iol et .

Bouqu et of chord G .

Tub eros e .

O r ange Flo w e r .

South er nwood .

Santa l .

G er aniu m .

A cacia . Bouqu et of chord 0 .

O r ange Flow e r .

C am pho r .

M usk .

Ros e .

Tub e r os e .

Tonquin B ean .
Bouqu e t of cho r d F .

C am phor .

In m aki ng a bouqu et every pri m itive odor m ust b e

“
b r ought to so m e standa r d of stre ngth or pow er of
”
odor . Thus , th e standar d of spiri t of r os es is three ,

ounc es of ot to ros e to o n e gallon of spirit B ut the .

 sc um ), L I G H T, AND so n ar . 45

standard of ge raniu m is eight oun ces of otto geran iu m

“
to o n e gal lon of spirit Th e ottos di ffering in pow er
.

”
of odor as thr ee is to eight El ectricians m ak e a .

”
cl ear differ enc e b etw ee n i ntensity an d quantity
v er b e na m ay b e cited as indicati ng th e form er , vani l la
as th e latter C am pho r is th r ee ti m es m ore inte ns e
.

than r os e .

Th ere is a prop e rty in sound and in l ight , says Sir

David B r ewster , too r em ar kabl e to b e passed with
“
out n otic e Two loud sounds m ay b e m ad e to p r o
.

duc e sil enc e an d two str ong lights m ay b e m ad e to

,

produc e
If two e qual an d si m il ar stri ngs o r the colu m ns o f ai r in two
,

eq u al and si m ilar pipes per form e xactly 1 00 vib r ations in a s econd

, ,

th ey will pr oduce eac h equal wav es o f so und an d th ese wav es will

,

consp i r e in ge n er ating an uninter r upte d sound doubl e o f eith er o f

,

th e sounds h ear d s ep ar ately If th e two str ings or the two colu m n s

.

o f ai r are not i n unison but n ea r ly so as in th e cas e wh er e th e o n e

, ,

vi b r ates 1 00 and th e oth er 10 1 ti m es i n a second th e n at th e fi r st ,

vib r ation the two sounds wi ll for m o n e o f doubl e the str ength o f
e ith er ; but th e o n e will g r ad ually gain u pon th e oth er till at th e ,

fi fti e th vibr ation it has gain e d half a vibr ation o n th e oth er A t .

this i nstant the tw o sounds will destroy on e an o ther an d an inter val ,

o f per fect sil enc e wi l l tak e p l ac e Th e sound will instantly co m

.

m enc e and g r adually inc reas e till it b ecom es loud est at th e hun
,

d r ed th vi br ation wh ere the two vi b r ations co nspi r e in p r oduci ng a

,

sound doubl e o f eith er A n inter v al o f sil ence will again occ ur at

.

th e 1 50 th 2 6 0th 8 ooth vibr ati o n o r ev er y second whil e a sound o f

, , , ,

doubl e th e strength o f eith er will be h ea r d at th e 200 th 300 th and , ,

400 th vibr ation Wh en th e unison is v er y defectiv e o r wh en th er e

.
,

i s a g r eat di ffer ence betw ee n th e nu m ber o f vibr ations which th e

two st r i ngs o r colu m ns o f air per form in a second th e succ essiv e ,

sounds and inter vals o f sil enc e r es em bl e a r attl e With a pow er ful .

or gan the efi ec t o f this e xp er i m ent is v er y fi n e th e r epetition of

,
‘

th e sounds wow—w ow—wow—r epr es enting th e doubl e sound and th e

inter val o f sil ence which ar ise fr om th e total extinction o f th e two
sepa rate sounds .

T h e ph enom enon co rresponding to this in th e case o f li ght is

46 TH E ART or Ps ar uu s ar.

A si m ilar analogy exists in th e ost powerf ul odors m .

C onc e ntrate d am m onia and conc entrate d ac etic acid

per haps still m or e sur p r ising If a bea m of r ed light i ssu es fr om a .

lu m inous po int and falls upon th e r etina w e shall see d istinctly t he

, ,

lu m inous obj ect fr om which it p r oc eeds ; but if anoth er p encil of

r ed light i ssu es fr o m an oth er lu m inous point anyhow situated p r o , ,

v id ed th e di ffer en ce be tw ee n its distanc e and that o f th e oth e r lu m i

nous point fr o m th e point o f th e r etin a o n which th e fi rst bea m fe ll ,

is th e 2 58 thousandth par t o f an inch o r exactly twi ce thr ice fou r

-

, , ,

ti m es &c that distan ce ; and if th i s second beam falls u pon th e

, .
,

sam e point of th e r etina th e o n e light wil l incr ease th e inten sity o f

,

th e oth er and th e ey e wi ll see tw i ce as m uch light as wh e n it t e

,

cei v ed only o n e o f th e bea m s s epar ately A l l this is nothing m or e .

than what m ight be exp ected fr om o ur o r dinar y exper i e nc e B ut .

if the di ffer ence in th e di stanc es o f th e two lu m inous points is only

on e half of th e 2 58 thousandth par t o f an inch or
- -
45 ,

ti m es that distance the on e l ight wi ll ex ti ngwi sh the other an d p r od uce

,

abso l u te d ar kness If the two lu m inous points ar e so situated that

.
,

th e d i fi er en c e o f th ei r distanc es fr o m the point o f th e r etina is i n

'

ter m ed i ate b etw ee n 1 and I } o r 2 and 2 b abov e th e 2 5 8 thousandth ,

-

par t o f an i nch th e inten sity o f th e effect which th ey pr oduc e wi ll

,

var y fr om absolute da r kn ess to doubl e th e in tensity of eith er light .

At 3 } ti m es &c th e 2 58 thousandth of an inch th e i n ten

, .
,
~
,

si ty o f th e two c o m bin ed l ights will be equal only to o n e of th em

acting singly If th e lights in place of falling upon the r etina fall

.
, ,

upon a sh eet of white paper the v er y sam e effect will b e pr odu ced , ,

a black spot being pr oduced in th e o n e case and a b r ight white o n e ,

i n the oth er and interm edi ate d egr ees of b r ightn ess i n inter m ediate
,

cas es If th e two lights ar e vi ol et th e di ffer ence o f distances at

.
,

which th e p receding ph enom ena will be p r oduced will be th e 1 57

thousandth par t of an inch and it will be interm ediate be tw ee n the ,

2 58 th an d th e 1 5 7 thousandth par t o f an inch fo r th e int er m ediat e

-

colo r s T h i s cu r ious ph enom enon m ay be easily shown to the eye

.
,

by ad m itting the sun s light into a dar k r oom th r ough a s m all hol e
’

about the 40 th o r both par t o f an inch in diam eter and r eceiving ,

th e lig h t o n a sh eet o f pap er If w e hold a n ee dle o r pi ece of sl en .

d er wi r e in this light and exa m in e its shadow w e shall find that

, ,

th e shadow consis ts of b r ight and da r k stri p es succeeding each oth er

alter nately th e str ipe in the v er y m iddl e o r ax is o f th e shad ow b eing
,
48 wa s A RT or p s ar u u s ar .

m itte d ;
but th e odors n o w lost can b e readily r e , ,

produc ed in th ei r natu ral potency .

Wh er e th er e ar e disagre eabl e odo rs and it is at the ,

sa m e ti m e i m possibl e to get rid of th em by an ai r

cu r r ent th e b est n eutrali z er is ano th er odor For
, .

this purpos e, and wi th w hat b en eficial result , b r own

pap er is burn ed now and th e n in our ho m es , is w ell
known .

In this way th e cadaverous odors of our old cath e

d ral s and abb eys fo r m er ly us e d as burial plac es w ere
,
-

over co m e with th e vapor of inc ens e not m er ely ,

m ask ed as so m e p ersons ass ert , but n e ut r aliz e d by

,

co m bination .

P estifer ous em anations ar e all of an alkalin e if not ,

nation o r wh en the el evations o f each coincide ; and our n eap tides

,
-
,

wh en th e el evation o f th e o n e wav e coincid es with th e d epr ession

o f th e oth er If th e sun and m oon had e x er ted exactly the sa m e
.

for ce upon th e ocean o r p r oduc ed ti de wav es o f th e sam e si ze th en

, ,

o u r h ea p tid es would hav e disapp ea r ed altogeth er and th e sp r ing

-

tid e would hav e bee n a wav e doubl e of the wav e p r oduc ed by th e

sun and m oon sep ar ately A n exam pl e of th e effect o f the equality
.

o f th e two wav es occur s in th e por t of B atsh a wh er e th e two wav es ,

ar r iv e by chann els o f di ffer ent l engths and actually obliter ate eac h
,

N ow , as sound is pr oduce d by undulations o r wav es i n th e ai r ,

and as l ight is suppos ed to be p r oduc ed by wav es o r undulations in

an eth ereal m ediu m filling all natu r e and occupying th e po r es of
, ,

t r anspar ent bodi es th e succ essiv e p r oduction of sound and sil enc e
,

by two loud sounds o r o f light and da r kn ess by two br ight lights

, ,

m ay b e e xpl ain ed in th e v er y sa m e m ann er as w e hav e e xplain ed

th e inc r ease and th e o b lit er ation of wav es fo r m ed o n th e su r fac e of

water If this th eo r y o f light be cor r ect th en the br eadth of a
. ,

wav e o f r ed light will b e th e 2 58 thousandth p art of an i nch the

-

b r eadth o f a wave of g r ee n light th e 2 07 thousandth par t of an i nch

,
-

and the b r eadth o f a wav e o f viol et l ight th e 1 5 7 thousandth par t ,

-

o f an i nch .
 on oas or wa s s s ar n s . 49

am m oniacal characte r and readily co m bin e w ith th e

,

products of slow co m bustio n all of which ar e acid

, ,

or have an acid character in th eir ch em ical r eac tions .

Thos e subtl e em anations wh ic h e nge nd er dis eas e ,

wh eth e r d erive d fro m th e m alarious swam p or as ,

efl ete m atter fr o m th e l un gs of a disord er ed p erson

'

ar e at onc e d estr oy e d by th e odorous vapo r s r esulting

fro m slow co m bustion .

B e n z oin is th e pri ncipal ingredi ent in all th e v end ed

com binations fo r sw eet fu m igation This yi elds by .

h e at th e highly volatil e b e n z oic acid : i n fault of h av

ing m atte r with whic h it can co m bin e it will wh e n , ,

diffus ed in a house cling to th e wal ls and p e n etrate

,

e v ery nook an d c r anny .

F ev er m ay hav e its own i n o n e cham b er but it ,

w ill r ar el y p e n etrat e anoth e r roo m e v e n i n th e sa m e

,

hous e if th e re be an occasional sacrific e o f inc ense

, .

Th e s m ell of bu r ning fl e sh is m ost r evolting — n o ,

wond e r the Rom ans bu r n t inc ens e at th e fun er al pil e .

P er haps it was th e bad s m ell of a bu r ning h er etic

that induc ed u s to qu e nch th e m ar ty r s fi re ; fo r Eng ’

land had no in c ens e i n thos e days .

Although tastes do di fi er y et it is worthy p erhaps

'

of r co ding a fact I hav obs e rv d na m ely that

e r e e — , ,

th e sc e nts whic h ar e m ost lik e d by youth ar e of low e r

bass note whil e that of age pre fe r the upp er trebl e
, .

O D ORS OF T H E E A RT H S .

All thos e m ate rials which ar e distingui sh ed in o r

d i n ary conv e rsati on as earths give out a p e culia r and
,

cha racte ristic odo r i m m ediately th ey are w ett ed wi th

wate r Eve ry p ed est rian o n th e high road in th e
.
-

5
50 wa s an or r s ar un s ar .

“
countr y during th e su m m er m onths , b eing caught
,
”
in a show er m ust hav e rem ark e d th e de lightful fra
,

an c e that fil ls th e air a few m inutes afte r th e rain

g r

has fall en , and th en pass es away Wh e n chalk or .

,

rath er whiting is m ix ed with wate r an odo r is

, ,

evolv e d which is v er y p e rsistent , but by no m e ans

fragrant to ev e ry nos e ; again oxid es o f iron , m anga

,

n es e and m any oth er bodi es i n th e category of earthy

,

substanc es giv e out odor wh e n w ett ed A t pres ent

, .

w e can do no m o r e than si m ply r eco r d th e fact, wi th .

out entering into sp eculation as to th e caus e of th es e

ph e no m ena without ind ee d it b e of a n egativ e kin d;
,

i n stati ng that th es e odors are c ertainly not d u e to

any m atter in th e water p r io r to its touching th e
earth , fo r th e sam e r esult has b ee n notic e d wh e n th e

pu r est distill ed wate r has b ee n us ed fo r th e p u rpos e

of th e exp e ri m e nt ; n eith er can th e obs er vati on b e
‘

confin ed sol ely to earth and wate r fo r wh en hydr o ,

chloric acid is pou r e d on to oxid e of z inc th e re is a ,

pl easant odo r giv en out as a by p r od uct of th e c o m

,
-

bination which th en tak es pl ac e b etw ee n th e acid

and z i n c oxide .

This m atte r full of inte rest w e l eav e to th e hands

, ,

of th e l abo rato ri an s .
 INDIA N s a s s s. 51

SE C T IO N III .

W ere n o t sum m er s d isti l latio n s l eft

’

A liquid p r ison er pe nt in walls o f glass

, ,

B eauty s effect o f beauty w er e ber eft

’
,

N o r it n or no r em em b r ance what it was ;

,

B u t flow er s distill ed though th ey with wi nter m eet

, ,

L eese but th eir sho w th eir su bstanc e sti ll liv es sweet

,
.

S a a x sr x a a n .

FLOW ERS yi e ld p erfu m e s in al l cli m ates but thos e ,

growing in the war m er latitud es ar e m ost pro l ifi c 1 n

'

th e ir od or , whil e thos e fro m th e c old er ar e th e

sw eetest H o ok er , l n hi s tr av els in Iceland , sp eaks
.

of th e d eli gh tful fragranc e of th e flow er s i n th e

vall ey o f Skardsh e id i ; w e kn ow that winter gree n -

viol e ts and pri m ros es ar e found h ere and the wild ,

thym e i n gr eat abundanc e M r L ouis P i esse, in . .

co m pany with C aptai n S turt, exploring th e wild r e

gions of South A ustr alia writ es : Th e rai ns have ,

cloth e d th e e arth with a gr ee n as b eautifu l as a

Shropshi r e m eadow in M ay and with flowers too , as , ,

sw eet as an English viol et ; th e pu re white an em on e

res em bl es it i n scent Th e y ellow wattl e, wh e n i n
.

”
flow er , is spl endid an d e m its a m ost fragrant odor
, .

A w r iter in U pp er C anada says

By th e way I se nd you h ere with a with e or tw o o f o ur Indian
,

gr ass whose delicious sce nt you will not fail to r em ar k

,
”
.

Y o u hav e nothing of th e kind i n E ngland to

co m par e with it and I wonder you r per fum ers do not use it It s
, .
’

v er y pl e ntifu l h er e .

E v er y count r y and cli m e o ffe r s up its r ipe n ed odo rs fr o m th e

52 THE ART or Ps as un s ar.

a th to th e m ost H igh The m i ghty and m aj estic A lps ar e redo

e r .

l ent with choicest a r om atics ; the fr igid zon e is su m ptuous with

r a r est p er fu m es ; that w r inkl ed and garr ulous o l d gr aybear d O c e an
, ,

l avish es up am ber gr is o n his sands ; th e hottest r egions the to r r id ,

zon e r egal e th e se nses with th ei r c onc entr ated volati le spi r its con
, ,

sti tu ti n
g th e d elicious ar om a o f th ei r div er s pr oducts unknown to ,

ch em ical analyses — F O RS TE R Kan . .

Though m any of th e fi n est p erfu m es com e fro m th e

East Indi es C eylon , M exico and P eru th e South of
, , ,

Eu r op e is th e only r eal ga r d e n of utility to th e p er

fu m er G rass e C ann es and Nice ar e th e p r incipal
.
*
, , ,

s e ats of th e art ; fro m th ei r geographical position , th e

C ann es , o r C agn es , is a sm
all s eapor t on th e M editerr an ean at the ,

south east ex tr em ity of F r anc e H er e N apol eon I landed fr o m E lba

.

o n th e l st of M a r ch 1 8 1 5 It is situated twenty o n e m iles fr o m

, .
-

N ico nin e m il es fr o m G r ass e 1 20 m il es fr o m th e po r t of M a r sei ll es

, , ,

and fou r tee n m il es fr o m th e V ar which till th e c ession of S avoy ,

by V ictor E m anu el separ ated F r anc e fr om S ar dinia This r iv er is .

c r oss ed by a long w ood en b r idge which is not u nfrequ ently wash ed ,

away by th e ov er wh el m ing to r rents which br ing with th em enor ,

m ous m ass es of s ton e and oth er m atte r ulti m at ely r ece iv ed by th e ,

sea. O n each side of this br idg e w er e ( 1 8 60 ) th e F r ench and S ar

dinian C usto m houses C ann s is so eti es te ed an E nglish
-
e m . m r m “

co lony fr om its having beco m e th e winter abo d e o f sev er al d istin

”
,

u i sh ed pe r sons am ong th em th e Right H o n L o r d B r ougha m

g ,
.
,

whose r esiden ce is th e C h ateau E lean or a Lo ui sa so na m ed after his ,

lor dship s lat e daughte r to whose m em or y it is dedicated and on

’
, ,

th e subj ect of whos e loss th e m ost feeling v er ses by Lo r d C a r lisl e ,

M ar quis W ell esl ey and her fath er ar e ins er ted in th e inter ior walls
, , .

S h e di ed at th e age o f s ev e nteen and th e d ee p and ev er l asti n g d e,

v o ti o n to h er m em or y is a touching tr ait in th e cha r acter of th e

acute la wyer and b r illiant states m an H er e is situate d th e per .

fum er y wo r ks of M L H er m an .T h e p r es ent population o f C ann es

. .

is about 5000 .

G r asse i s situated tw elv e m il es nor th o f C ann es r ising c onsid er a ,

bly fr om the sea up th e E st rell a M ountains It contai ns a pop a la .

tion o f about H ere is situated the g r eat p er fu m er y wo r ks of

M M P ilar freres
.
, .
 o a a s s s, C A N N E S, AN D u rea . 53

g row e r, within co m paratively short distanc es has at ,

com m and that change of cli m ate b est fitted to bring

to p e rfection th e plants r equi r ed fo r his t r ad e O n .

th e sea coast , his cassi e g r ows without fear of fr ost

-

o n e night of which wo u ld d e stroy all th e plants fo r a

s e ason ; w hil e n ear er th e m ountains of th e E str el l e

( th e foot of th e A lps ) his viol e ts
, a r e found sw e ete r

than if grown i n th e war m e r situations wh e re th e ,

orange t ree and tub er os e bloo m to p erfection Eng .

land can clai m sup e riority in th e growth of lav en de r

and p epp er m int ; th e ess ential oils extracted fr o m th ese
plants g rown at M itcham in Su r r ey , and at Hi tchin , ,

i n H e rtfo r dshi r e r eali z e eight ti m e s th e p r ic e i n th e

,

m ark e t of thos e p r oduc e d i n Franc e o r e ls ewh er e ,

and ar e fully worth th e differe nc e fo r d elicacy o f

odor A t C ann es ar e p roduc ed all the p roducts of
.

ros e tub er e us e cassi e j as m in e and o r ange h er olz

'

, , , ,
.

A t Ni sm es th e cultivato r s di rec t th eir chi e f att e ntio n

to thym e ros em a ry aspic an d lav end er A t N ic e
, , ,
.

th e factors hav e a sp ecia liz e for viol e t and r ézeda

'
.

Sicily yi elds l em on and orange Italy orris and h e r ,

gam ot .

Th e odors of plants r esid e in d iffer ent parts of

th em so m eti m e s in th e roots as in th e iris and viti
, ,

v e rt ; th e stem o r woo d in c edar and santal ; th e ,

l eav es in m int , patchou ly , and thy m e ; the flow e r

, ,

in th e ros es and viol ets ; th e s eeds in th e T onquin ,

b ean an d caraway ; th e bar k i n cinna m on 81 0 , , .

So m e plants yi eld m o r e than o n e odo r which ar e ,

quit e distinct and characte ristic Th e orange tr ee .

,

fo r instanc e giv es thr ee — fr o m th e l eav es o n e call ed

, ,

p e at g r ai n ; fro m th e flow er s w e p r ocur e nero li ; a n d

fro m th e rind of th e fruit ess ential oil of orange, ,

*
5
54 TH E A RT or r s a r u n aa r .

“
n am ed P or tugal O n this account , p erhaps , this
.

tree is th e m ost valuabl e of all to th e op e rativ e p er

fu m er.

T h e frag r anc e or odo r o f plants is owing , in n ea r ly

all cas es to a p erfectly volatil e oil eith er contain e d
, ,

in s m al l v ess els or sacs , within th em or gen e r ate d

, ,

fr o m ti m e to ti m e, during th ei r life as wh e n in ,

blosso m . S o m e few exud e by incision odoriferous , ,

gu m s as b en z oin , olibanu m , m y r rh &c ; oth ers give

, , .
,

by th e sa m e act , what ar e call ed bal sam s , which ap

p ear to b e m ixtu r es of an odo r ous oil and an i n o d o r
ous gu m So m e of th es e balsam s ar e p r ocured i n
.

th e country to which th e plant is indigenous by boil

ing it in wate r fo r a ti m e straining and th en boiling , ,

again , o r evapo r ating it down till it assu m es th e con

sistency of tr eacl e In this lat ter way is balsam of
.

P e ru procured fr om th e Myr oxylon p erm fa um and ’

th e balsa m of Tolu fr o m t he M yr oxylon to lm f er um .

Though th es e odor s ar e ag ree abl e th ey ar e not m uch ,

appli ed in p e rfu m e ry fo r handker chi ef u se b ut by ,

so m e th ey ar e m ixed with so ap , and in England th ey

ar e valu e d m or e for th eir m edici n al p r op er ti es than

for th eir fragr anc e .

T h e odors of flow e rs ar e m o r e ge n e rally s ecr eted

during th e sunshin e or at l east in the d ayti m e, but
,

th er e ar e so m e which yi eld no odor in th e day but ,

ar e v e ry frag r ant in th e ev ening , such as th e Cestr um

th e I/ychim s vesp er tzn a so m e o f th e Ch la

' ’

n oc turnum , ,

setum and th e Qym bidium .

Th ere ar e a few flower s which r ec eive th eir sp ec ific

nam e tr isti s, SAD , o n ac count of th eir b eing o d o rif
,

e r o n e only at night ; such are H esp er z s tr istis Ny e

'

ta n thes ar bor tr isti s .

56 r an A RT or r s a r u n s ar .

th e odors of plants , divid es odorife r o u s flow e rs in to

tw o class es :
1 Thos e in which th e in te rm ission of odor is con
.

n ec ted with th e op e ni n g and closing of th e flow er ;

and in this class th ere ar e two subdivisions .

A Flow e rs which ar e clos e d an d sc e ntl ess during

.

the day and ar e op e n and odorife rous at night suc h

, ,

as M ir abilis jalap a M dic hotom a M longiflor a , D atum

,
. .
,

cer atocaula Nyclan thes ar bor tr iad s, Cer eus grand iflor us
’
, ,

C. nycticalus, C . serp en ti nus , M esem bryan them um n ecti

m e sp eci e s of Silene
fl or um and so,
.

B Flow e rs which are closed and sc entl ess du ring

.

th e night and ar e op e n and odoriferous during th e

,

day , such as Con volvulus arvem i s Cucur bi ta p ep o

, , ,

Ny m p haza alba, and Ny m p haea cm m l ea .

2 Flow er s which ar e always O p en , but which ar e

.

odorifer ous at o n e ti m e and sc e ntl ess at anoth er .

U nd e r this class th e re ar e two se ctions :

A Flow e rs always op en and only odorifer ous
.
,

du ring th e day such as Cash um diur n um , Co r on illa

, ,
-

lauca and Ctzcalia sep l en l rion ali s

g , .

B Flow e rs always op e n but only fragrant at night

.
, ,

such as P elargonium tr ials Cestm m n o turnum H es ,

c

tr iads, an d G ladiol us tr iads

'

p er z
s .

T he xudation of odo r s by nocturnal flow ers so m e

e

ti m es takes plac e in a p eculiarly inter m itte nt m an ner .

Thus , in th e night bloo m ing Cer eus ( Cér eas gran di -

fl o m s ), th e flow e r s ar e fragrant only at int e r vals ,

giving out p ufls of odor ev ery half hou r , from eight

'

i n th e ev ening till m idnight Balfou r on th e au

*
.
,

th o ri ty of M ar r en stat es that on o n e oc casion th e

,

B alfour s C lass B ook o f B otany

’
-
.
 NO C T U RN A L s n o w s a s. 57

flow e rs b egan to expand at six o clock in th e ev ening

’
,

wh en the first frag ranc e was p er c eptibl e in the hot

hous e A qu arter of an hou r afte rwar ds th e first
.
,

p uff of odor too k pl ac e afte r a rapid m otion of th e

,

calyx ; at tw enty th r ee m in utes past six th ere was an

-

o th e r pow e rful e m anation o f fragranc e ; by thirty

fi v e m in utes past six , th e flow er s w er e co m pl et ely

op en ; at a quar ter to s ev en th e o do r of th e calyx was
th e strongest, bu t m odifi e d by th e p etal s ; after this
ti m e th e em anatio n of odor took plac e at th e sam e
p e riods as b efo r e .

O bs e r vations hav e b een m ad e by C obl e r and Sch u

bl er in r egar d to odorifero us flow ers as occurring
,
*

i n sp e ci es b el on gi ng to c er tain o r d e rs in r elati on to
th ei r colors Th ey hav e fo r m ed a tabl e of th e colore d
.

flow er s which th ey exam in ed acco r ding to thei r odor

,

i fer o u s qualiti es and th e colors which th ey b e ar

,
.

spew Od or lferous .
Od ors ni m bl e

A s will b e s ee n by th e above Tabl e white , th e

flow er s ar e th e m ost fr agr ant an d pl easing to th e
s m ell , whil e th e or ange an d brown colo r ed flow e rs
a re o f littl e u se to th e p erfu m e r .

Q uo ted by B alfour .
 8 m s ART or r s ar u m s ar .

Th e M on ocolyledons xam in ed w e re found to con

e

tai n 1 4 p er c ent of odoriferous sp eci es , whil e th e

.

D icotyledons only contain 1 0 p er c ent In th e c as e of

.

th e natu r al o r d er s e xam in ed th e colors w e re asso

,

ci s ted with th e odo rs as follows

In laying o ut a gard en which w e m ay d esi r e to

pl eas e u s by its fragranc e as w ell as its b eauty , w e
c annot do b etter than b e guid ed by th e abov e facts i n
the s el ection of flow e rs to cultivat e in it , nor can thos e
who ad m ire th e paradisi acal p erfu m e of a gar d e n
at e vening s clos e n egl ect the growth of noctu r nal
’

flow ers, without losing m any pl eas ur es d er ived fro m

“
th e particl es which th ey th r ow into th e b r eath of
life so subti l e and eth er eal withal as to b e b eyond
,

th e m ater ial g r asp of th e ch em ical philosoph e r .

T h e exte nsiv e flow e r fa r m s in th e n eighbo rhood

o f Nic e i n Sa r dinia ; M ontp e lli e r N i sm es G r ass e, and
, , ,

C ann es in Fran c e ; at Adrianopl e (Tu r k ey in Europ e);

,

at B r ous sa and Helak (Tu r k ey in A sia); at G azepo r e

( India ) ,
and at M itcha m and H i tchin in
,
England i n ,

a m easu r e indicate th e co m m er cial i m po r ta nc e of that

branch o f ch em ist ry cal l ed P er fu m ery .
 FL OWE R FA RM IN G S T AT I ST I C S . 9

B r itish India and Europ e consu m e an nual ly , at th e

v e ry low est esti m ate gallons !of p erfu m ed
,

spiri ts und er various titl es such as H ungary W ater

, , ,

Ess e nc e of L ave nd er , Esprit d e Ros e &c Th e ar t , .

o f P e rfu m ery do e s not how e v e r , confin e its el f to th e

,

pro d uctio n of sc e nts fo r th e handke rchi ef and bath ,

but ex tends to i m parting odor to inodo r ous bodi es ,

such as soap oil s tar ch and gre as e which ar e con

, , , ,

su m ed at th e toil ette of fashion So m e id ea of the .

co m m ercial i m po r tance of this art m ay b e form ed ,

wh en w e state that o n e of th e larg e p erfu m ers of

C ann es , M H e rm an em ploys an nually
.
, lbs .

of o r ange flow e rs lbs of cassi e flow ers ,

, .

lbs of r ose l eav es ,

. lbs of jasm in e .

blosso m s ,
lbs of viol ets 8 0 0 0 lbs of tub er eus e ,
.
,
.

lbs of cas si e b esid es ros em ar y m int, l em on ,

.
, ,

citron thym e and oth er odorous plants in la rger pr o

, ,

portion In fact th e quantity of odo r ife r ous sub

.
,

stanc es us e d in this way is far b eyond th e conc eption

of those ev e n u s ed to a bstr act statistics .

F LOWE R F A RM I NG STAT I ST I C S .

Thirty thousand Jasm ine plants will occupy an ar e a

of land equival ent to 1 5 00 m etr e s (rath er m o re tha n
o n e thi r d of an ac re), and will p r oduc e du r ing th e
-

e nti r e s eason 1 0 0 0 kilog r a m m es of flo we r s

*
, .

Five thousand R ose tr ee plants will occupy 1 8 0 0 -

m et r es of land ( n ea r ly half an ac re ) an d will p r od u c e ,

1 0 ki log r am m es of ros e flow ers duri ng th e s e ason .

O n e hund r ed Orange tr ees, at th e age of 1 0 y ears -

will occupy 40 0 0 m etr es of land (o n e acre), and wil l

T he kilogr am m e is v er y n ea r ly 2 lbs . 3 oz .
60 wa s AM or r s a r u n s ar .

p r oduc e du r ing th e s e ason 1 0 00 kilog r am m e s of

, ,

orange fl o w e rs
-
.

Eight hund r e d Ger an i um pl ants will occupy 2 0 0

m etr es of Jand th e p r oduc e of which during th e
, ,

s eason will b e 1 000 kilog ra m m es of ge raniu m

,

flow e rs .

Violets —5 0 00 m et r es of land ( 1 ; acre) plant ed with

.

viol ets , will p r oduc e 1 0 0 0 kilog ra m m es of viol et

flow e rs du r ing th e s eason .

Tuber ose . tub eros e roots will p r oduc e 1 0 0 0

-

kilogr a m m es of flow er s during th e s eas on and will ,

require 1 000 m et r es o f land ( 2 1 ac r e) fo r th ei r cultu r e .

T he annual p r o d uc e of viol e t flo w ers at N ic e and -

at C ann es am ounts to kilogram m es ( G rasse

do es not produc e viol ets ) th e an n ual m anu factu re of
,

which into oils and po m ad es is kilog ra m m es

if how ev er th e p r oduc e fu r nish e d by th e diffe r e nt
, ,

m anu factu r e r s w e r e g e nuin e th ey would not b e abl e ,

to p r oduc e m o r e than 6 0 0 0 kilog r a m m e s of th e ess e nc e

i n its pu r e stat e fr o m th e quantity of flow e r s j ust
m entio n ed .

Nic e p r oduc es kilog r am m es of o r ange

fl o w er s an n ually .

T h e p r oduc e of o r ang e flo w e r s at C ann es and th e

-

a djac ent villag es is kil o gr a m m es ; th es e ar e

of a m uch sup e rio r quality and i n e ve ry way b ette r
adapted for m anufactu r e than thos e of Nic e which ,

ar e ind eed fit fo r distillation only

, , .

O n e thousand kilogram m es of o r ange flo w ers p ro -

duc e 8 00 g ra m m es of pur e n er oli ; 6 00 kilog r am m es

of o r ange flo w er l eav es produc e 1 kilogra m m e of
-

pu r e p etit gr ain .

C ann es pr oduc es annually fr o m to

 OR A G
N E -
FL O W E R W A T E R S . 61

kilogram m es of cassi e fl o w er s It m ay h e r em ar k ed
-
.
,

that th e cassi e flo w er is a p r o d uct which b elo n gs ex

-

elusiv ely to th e soil o f C ann es as th e tr ee w hich p r o ,

duc es it wil l not g row to p e rfection eith e r at Nic e or

at G rass e Th e last nam ed locality is also d efici ent
.
-

i n th e production o f orange trees th ese ar e obtain ed -

only fro m C ann es for th e m anufacture of po m ad es ,

and from Nic e for distil l ati on .

Th e flow ers em ploy ed i n th e m anufacture of p er

fum er y , such as th e r os e, th e jas m in e and th e tub e ,

r os e ar e not so ge n e rally cultivate d at G r ass e as at

,

C ann e s.

T h e annual p r oduc e of G rass e and C an n es and of ,

th e adj ac e nt villag es is kilog ra m m es of r o s es

, ,

kilogram m es of j as m in e , and kilo

gra m m es o f tub er oses .

Orangefl oww Water s — A ccord ing to th e quantity .

of o r ange flo w er s stated to b e p r oduc ed at G rass e

-

C ann e s and at Nic e not m or e t han

, ,
litr es or
ki log r am m es of o r ange fl o w er wate r c an b e eith er -

m anufactu r e d or distill e d i n a pu r e state with th e

q uantity of orang e fl o w e rs suppli

-
ed to th e distill e r s
by th e m anufacturers of po m ad es wh er eas th e adul ,

ter ati o n of this articl e is so gr eat that upwar ds of ,

kilogram m es o f spurious orange wate r is -

export ed . It is , th er efo r e, highly i m portant that th e

distillation of th ese flow er s should be subj ect to a
strict surveillanc e .

This abuse m ay b e rem edi ed eith er by th e i n stitu

tion of a co m m issi on fo r that purpos e at C ann es o r ,

by th e appointm ent of an insp ecto r whos e o ffic e ,

should b e to exam in e the distill e d water s at the

m o m e nt th ey l eav e th e distill e r s and who should b e
’
,

6
62 THE ART or PE B FU M E R Y .

em pow er e d to punish s ever ely in cas es in which l eaf

water o r any oth er fraudul ent m ixture, m ay b e sold
,

by h i m u nd e r th e nam e of o r ange fl o w er water -

.

For m y own part , it would giv e m e gr eat pl eas u r e

if th e F r ench gov er n m ent whose solicitud e fo r all
,

m atte rs conc ern i ng th e public good is so gr eat , would

devote i ts attention to this i m portant subj ect .

G r ass e and C ann es m an ufactu r e annually

Kil ey .

1 50 ,0 0 0 of po m ad es and scented oils .

2 50 of ur e otto of n er oli
p otto of pe tit gr ai n
.

450 .

otto o f lav ender .

Ro m an esse nce .

otto o f thy m e .

The otto of
n eroli and o f p etit grain p r odu ced at
C ann es ar e far sup e rior in quality to those p r oduc e d
at G r ass e The r eason fo r this d ifl er en c e is obvious
'

.
,

fo r as G r ass e do e s not produc e th e flow e r s which ar e

m ost g e n er ally u se d in th e m anufactur e of p er fu m e ry ,

and can obtain th em fro m C ann es only , a long ti m e

m ust n ec essarily elaps e b etw ee n th e ti m e of gath e ring

th em , and that of th eir m anu facture, add ed to which

also , th ei r conv eyanc e during the h eat of su m m er is
at all ti m es detri m e ntal .

It woul d b e advantageous to the m an ufactur er, and

al so to th e consu m er i f th e flowers w er e consu m ed
,

in th e locality in which th ey ar e p r oduc ed in o r d e r ,

that th ey m ay b e obtain ed in as fr esh a sta te as pos

sibl e It is fo r this obj ect that C ann es has witn ess ed
.

th e er ec tion of a lar g e p e rfu m e ry e stablish m ent in

th e m idst of th e ga r d e ns of M L ouis H er m an , w hi ch
.

is c ertainly without an equal in th e country , and ,

64 TE E ART or PEB FU M E B Y .

SE C TION IV .

S hould w e
chance to st r ay
D own by th e ha m l et s H awtho r n sc ented way
’
-

th e sight is pl eased ,

T h e scent r egal ed ; each odor ifer ous l e af ,

E ach ope ning blosso m fr eely b reath es ab r oad

,

Its gr atitud e and than ks H I M with its sweets

,
”
.

W IT H OU T r ecapitulating thos e facts which m ay b e

found diffus ed thr ough n early all th e O l d authors on
m edic al botany , ch e m istry , pharm acy and works O f ,

this characte r , fro m th e ti m e O f Parac elsus to C el n art,

w e m ay state at onc e th e m od e of op e ration adopte d
by the practical p erfu m er of th e pres ent day fo r p r e
pari n g th e var ious extr acts o r e sse nc es , waters oi ls , ,

pom ad es &c use d in his calling

,
.
, .

The p roc ess es ar e divid e d into four distinct op era

tions ; vi z

1 . EX P RE SS I ON ; 2 .D I ST ILLAT I ON ; 3 . MA CE RAT I ON ;
4 A B SORPT I ON
. .

1 E xpr ession
. is only adopted wh ere th e plant is
v ery prolific in its volatil e or ess ential oil ,—i e , its . .

odor ; such , fo r insta nc e as is found i n th e p ellicl e or

,

out er p eel O f the orange, l em on , and citr on , and a

fe w oth e rs In th es e cas es the parts of th e plant con
.
,

tai n ing th e odorifer ous principl e ar e put so m eti m es ,

in a cloth bag , and at oth ers by th em s elv es into a ,

press and by m er e m echanical for c e it is squ eez ed

,
 Ex PRE SS ION . 65

out Th e press is an iron vess el O f i m m ens e strength

.
,

varying in si z e fro m six in ch es in diam eter and tw elve ,

d eep and upwards to contain o n e hundr edw eight

, ,

o r m or e ; it h as a s m all ap e r tu r e at th e botto m to al
low th e exp r ess ed m aterial to run for coll ecti on ; i n
th e inter io r is plac ed a p e r forat ed fals e botto m and ,

on this th e substance to b e squ eez ed is pl ac ed cove red ,

with an iron plate fitting the int e rior ; this is conn ect
ed w ith a pow e rful scr e w , which b eing turn ed fo r c e s ,

th e substanc e so clos ely toge th e r that th e littl e v es

,

s els containing th e ess ential oils ar e bu r st and it thus ,

e scap es .T h e co m m on tinctu r e p r ess is ind ee d a m o

-

d e l of such an instru m e nt T h e oils which are thus

.

Pip tt to draw ofi sm all portions of tto f o w ter

e e
‘

o r m a .

coll ecte d ar e conta m inated with water y extract which ,

exud es at the sam e ti m e , and fro m which it h as to b e

s epa rated ; this it do es by itsel f to a c er tain e xte nt ,

by standin g in a qui et place and it is th e n pou r e d

,

O ff and filt ere d wh e n r e q ui site

,
.

*
6
66 TE E ART or P E E P U M E R Y.

2 D istillation
.
— T he plant , or part of it which con
tains th e odoriferous principl e i s plac e d in an iron , ,

copp er or glass pan varying in si z e fr o m that capabl e

, ,

of holding fro m o n e to twenty gallons , and cove r ed

with wate r ; to the pan a do m e shap ed lid is fitt ed -

ter m inating wit h a pip e , which is t w isted cor ksc rew

fashion , and fixe d in a bucket with th e en d p eeping ,

out like a tap i n a barrel Th e wate r in the still .

fo r such is th e nam e of the apparatu s— is m ad e to

boil ; and having no oth er exit, th e s te a m m ust pas s
th r ough th e coil ed pipe ; which b eing surround ed ,

with cold water in the bucket cond enses th e vapo r ,

b efo r e it can arriv e at th e tap With the ste am th e .

,

volatil oil
e — i e p rfu
e. m e—. ris es and is liqu efi ed at
, ,

th e sam e ti m e T he liquid s which thus run ove r on

.
,

stan ding fo r a ti m e s eparate into two po r tions and

, ,

a r e finally divid ed wit h a funn el havi n a stop c ck

g o -

in th e n arrow par t By this proc ess , th e m a

Tap fun n lf rs
e o e par ating otto fr om wat and spi it f
er r ro m oil .

o ri ty h m e few
j of t e volatil e ottos ar e proc ur e d In so .

i nstanc es al cohol i e , r ectifi ed spirit O f win e—is

— . .

plac e d upon th e odorous m ater ials in li e u O f wate r ,

 D I ST IL L A T I ON . 67

which on b eing distill ed , com es away with the p er

,

fu m i ng substance dissolv ed in i t But this process .

is n o w n early Obsol ete as it is found m ore b en eficial

,

to d r aw th e oil or ess e nc e first with wate r , and afte r

wa rds to dissolv e it i n th e spirit Th e low tem p er a
.

ture at which spirit boils com pared with water , caus es

,

a great loss o f otto , th e b est not b eing sufli c i en t to

dis engage it fr om th e plant, esp ecially wh ere s eeds ,

such as cloves or caraway are e m ploy ed ,

.

Th e wate r us ed to k eep th e wor m s cool is suppli e d

by natural springs which flow to an y part o f th e m anu
,

facto ry in in exhausti bl e quanti ti es fr o m th e n eigh

borin gE str el l e M ountains In this r esp ect M Pilar
. .
,

of G r ass e, is e qually fortunate th e cost of such wate r

,

b eing m er ely a sm all sum paid to th e to wn ev e ry

y e ar Th e F r ench houses wo r k th eir stills by th e
.

direct action of th e fi r e to th e still which is liabl e to ,

give an em pyr eu m atic o r bu rnt s m ell to th e dis ti l

late ; but in all th e w e ll regulated p erfu m ato r i es of
-

Bond Str eet , L ondon th e stills ar e wo rk ed by th e

,

steam u nd er ten o r fi fteen poun d s p r essure fr o m a

,
’
,

boil er .

T h e ann ex ed illustr ation exhibits th e b est fo rm and

constr ucti on of still hith e rto inv ent e d th e n ov el parts ,

O f which w e r e pate nt e d by th e fi r m of D r ew H ey ,

wood Barr on , whos e ottos and ess ential oils ar e

al ik e known for p urity and quality .

Th e whol e apparatus stands upon a m assiv e foot .

By exam ining th e s ectional dr awing it will b e s een

that th e pan is doubl e, a hollow spac e existing b e
tw e e n th e inn er and ou te r pan t echnically ter m e d ,
”
th e ste am j ack et .

S t ea m is suppli ed fro m a boil er by th e pi p e S The .

68 TE E A RT OP PE B FU M E R Y .

still is s eparabl e into two m ai n pa r ts nam ely , the

,

h ead and the pan ; wh e n in u se th ey are fir m ly bolt e d

toge th er with screws as sho w n in th e drawing With

,
.

”
in th e h ead o f th e still is fix ed th e r ous e r whic h
,
 D I S T I L L A T I ON
. 69

is a doubl e cross bar , curv ed to fit th e pan , to which

-

is attach ed a chain , to drag over th e bo tto m of th e

pan T h e whol e is set in m otion by an assistant
.

tu r ning th e han dl e outsid e in co nn ection by th e axl e

wit h th e cog wh eels in th e inte rio r of th e still
-
.

Supposing th e stil l to b e charged , say with two

hundredw eight of cloves , wat er is suppli ed till th e
pan is n early full ; the h e ad of th e still is th e n bolte d
on S team be ing appli e d i n th e jacket, th e water
.

an d clov es i n th e pan ar e soon brought to a boiling

h eat and th en , b eing w el l rous ed tog eth e r th e otto

, ,

O f clov e s is dis en gag ed and carri e d forward by th e

,

steam ge n erated up th e pip e m a rk ed S o , and is

quickly cond en s ed in th e refri gerato r , running out at
R , and falling into th e cist ern 0 .

H er e th e otto and th e w at er spontan eously divid e ,

th e otto of clov es falli n g , and th e wat e r rising in th e

cister n A s soon as th e wate r reach es th e o v e rfl ow
.

tap it runs into th e syp hon funn el , th e nce into th e

,

still Ingeniously sim pl e as this syphon contrivanc e

.

is , th e whol e m e rit of this form of stil l tu rn s on th e

’
applicati on of th e sypho n , by m eans of which th e
som e water which l eft th e still in th e form
,
of steam ,
r eturns again and again into th e pan Th e pip es c w,
.
,

convey cold water fro m an outer tank to th e r efr i ge

rator, whil e II w carry o ff the hot wate r produc ed by
, ,

th e cond ensations taking plac e in th e wo r m pip e .

In cas es wh ere th e otto dis e ngaged fi o m th e m a '

,

teri sl yi elding it is light e r than wate r th e n it is o h ,

v i o u s that th e low er ts p of th e cist e rn m ust b e m ad e

to supply the syphon in pl ac e of th e upp er o n e

,
.

It is al m ost n eedl ess to say that the syphon m ust,

in th e first instanc e, be fill ed with wate r, in ord er to
70 THE ART OP P E R RU M E R Y .

p revent th e escap e by that o r ific e o f any frag r ant

vapor fro m th e sti ll ; th e pressu r e of vapor within is
not th en suffici e n t to over co m e the w eight of th e
short colu m n of water in syphon It so happ e ns , .

how ev er, that the fin est O dors , th e recher che as th e ,

Parisians say , c annot b e pro cu r ed by this m e thod ;

th en r ecou r s e is b ad to the n ext p r oc ess .

8 M
. acer ati on — This op er ation is conduct ed thus
.

For what is call ed po m ad e a c e rtain quantity of pu r i

,

fi ed b eef or d eer su et m ix ed with purifi ed la r d is

, ,

put into a cl ean m etal o r po r c elain pan ; this b eing

m elt e d by a st ea m h eat or bath , th e ki nd of flow er s
r equired for th e O dor wanted are carefully pick ed an d
put to the liquid fat and allowe d to r em ain from
,

t w elv e to forty eight hours ; th e fat has a particular

-

afli n i ty or attraction for th e otto of flow e r s and thus , ,

as it w er e, draws it out of th em , and b eco m es its elf ,

by th eir aid , highly p erfu m ed ; th e fat is strain ed

fro m th e sp e nt flow e rs , and fr esh ar e add e d te n o r
fiftee n ti m es ov er till th e pom ad e is of th e re qui r ed
,

str e ngth ; th es e various st r engths of po m atu m s ar e

‘
note d by th e F r enc h m ak e rs as N o s 6 1 2 1 8 and .
, , ,

24 th e high e r nu m e rals indicating th e a m ount of

,

fr agr anc e i n th em For p e rfu m ed oils th e sam e

.
,

op er ation is follow ed ; but in li eu O f su et , fi n e oliv e

,

oil and th e sam e r esults ar e obtain ed Th es e oils ar e

,
.

”
call e d H uil e A ntiqu e O f such and su ch a flo w er .

T h e orange ros e and cassi e co m po unds ar e p r in

, ,

c ip al ly pr epa r e d by this proc e ss .

T h e viol et and r ezed a p o m ad es and oils ar e p r e

pa r ed first by th e m ac e ration proc ess , and th en
finish ed by enfleur age .

W h e n n eith er of th e three fo r egoing p r oc ess es

72 THE ART OP P E RF U M E RY
.

This op eration is r ep eate d s ev e ral ti m e s , after which

th e cloths ar e subj ect to a gr eat pr essur e , to rem ov e
th e n o w p erfu m ed oil .

A s w e cannot giv e any ge n e ral r ul e for wor king ,

without m isl e adin g th e read e r w e p r efer explaining
,

th e proc ess r e quir ed for each wh e n w e co m e to sp eak

of th e indiv idual flow er or plant .
 E X T RA C T S OP F L OW E RS . 73

SE C TION V .

Me seem I sm elt a gar den O f sw eet fi o w r s

’
d ’
,

That dainty odor s fr o m th em thr ew aro u nd

For dam se ls fit to deck th ei r lov er s bo w rs ’ ’
.

S P E N SE R .

THE p er fu m es fo r th e handk erch i ef as foun d i n ,

th e S h O p s of Pa r is an d L on d on ar e e ith er si m pl e o r
,

co m pound ; th e form er ar e call ed extr acts ex tr aits , ,

esp r its or ess enc es and th e latte r bouq

, ,
uets or nos egays ,

which ar e m ixtures of th e extracts so co m pound ed i n

quantity that no o n e flo w er o r O dor can b e discov er ed ‘

as p r e do m inating ov e r anoth er ; and wh en m ad e of

th e d e licate sc e nte d flo w er s car e fully bl end ed th ey
-

produc e an exquisite s e n sation on th e ol facto ry n er v e,

and are th erefore m uch priz ed by all who can afford
to purchas e th em .

W e shall first e xpl ain th e m od e for Obtaining the

si m pl e extr ac ts of flow ers This will b e follow ed by
.

th e p r oc ess fo r pr epar ing a m b er gris , m usk , and civ et

substanc es which , though of ani m al o r igin , ar e of
,

th e ut m ost i m po r tanc e as form ing a lar ge part in the

m ost app r ov e d bo uqu e ts ; and w e Shall concl ud e this

d epartm ent of th e art with r ecip es for all the fashion

abl e bouqu ets and nos egays th e valu e of which , w e
,

doubt not , wil l b e esti m at e d according to th e labo r

b estow ed upon th ei r analysis .

In ord er to rend er the wo r k m ore easy of consulta

tion w e have adopt ed th e alphab etical arrangem ent
,

in pr eference to a m ore sci entific cl assi ficati o n .

74 TE E ART or P E R P U E E R Y.

Am ong th e c oll ection of ottos of th e East Indi a

C om pany at the Exhibition of 1 8 5 1 , w ere s ev e ral
hith e rto unknown in this cou ntry and po ssessing ,

m uc h inter est .

It is to b e regretted that no p e rson havin g any

,

p r a c tica l knowl edg e of P e rfu m ery was plac e d on th e

j ury of C l ass IV or XX IX H ad such b een the cas e.

,

th e d esir es of th e exhibitors would probably hav e

b ee n reali z ed , and Eu rop ean p erfu m ers b en efited by
th e introduction of n ew odors fro m th e East So m e .

o f th e ottos s e nt by a nati v e p e rfu m er O f B e na r e s

w ere d eem ed worthy of honorabl e m ention — such as ,

Chum eylee B eyla, B eyla M oleya an d m any oth er s

, , ,

fro m th e M oluccas, but without any inform ation r e

sp e cting th em .

W e are not going to sp eak of p e rhaps , m ore than ,

a tith e of the plants that hav a p fu e e r m e— only thos e

will b e m e ntion ed that ar e used by th e Op er ative p er
fu m er and such as ar e i m itated by hi m in cons equ enc e
,

of th er e b eing a d em and for th e articl e, which c i r

c u m stan c es pr e v e nt h i m fr o m obtaining in its ge nuin e
state T h e first that co m es und er o u r noti c e is
.

A LL SPIOE — T h e odo r ifer ous principl e of allspic e

.
,

co m m only call ed pi m e n to is obtain ed by distilli n g

,

th e dri ed fr uit b efor e it is quit e r ip e O f th e E ugen ia

, ,

i m en ta an d Myr tus p im en ia with wate r I t is thus

p .

procured as an essential O il ; it is but li ttl e us ed in

p e rfum ery , and wh en so only in co m bination wi th
,

oth er spic e O ils for sc enting soap ; it is , how ev e r v ery ,

agreeabl e and m uch r es em bl es th e sm ell of cloves ,

,

and d es erv es m o re att ention than it has hith er to

r e c e iv e d . M ix e d in th e proportion of three ounc es

O f O i l of allspic e with o n e gallon of re ctifi ed spirit of

 A L M OND S . 75

win e it form s what m ay b e te rm ed extract of allspic e,

,

which extrac t will b e found v er y us eful in th e m an u

factu r e of low pric ed bouqu ets — See P I M ENT O
-
. .

AL M OND S .

M ar k well the fio w r i n g al m ond in th e wood ;

’

If Od r o na bloo m s th e be ar ing b r anch es load

’
,

Th e gl ebe wi ll answ er to th e sylvan r eign ,

G r eat h ea ts will follow an d la r ge c rO ps of g r ain

, .

V I RG I L .

This p e rfum e has b ee n m uch es teem e d fo r m any

ag es . It m ay b e procured by distilling th e l eave s O f
any of th e lau r el trib e and th e k er n els of ston e fr u it ;
,

fo r trad e pu r pos es it is Obtain ed fro m th e bitt er al

,

m ond and e xists in th e ski n o r p ellicl e that cov er s

,

th e s ee d afte r it is sh ell e d In th e or dinary way th e

.
,

al m onds ar e put into the press fo r th e pu r pos e of O h

taining th e m ild or fat oil fro m th e nut ;

Al m ond .

is l eft aft e r this proc ess is th en m ix ed with

salt and wate r and allo wed to r em ain togeth e r fo r
,

about twe nty four hou r s prior to disti llation Th e

-
.

r e ason for m oiste ning th e cak e is w ell und e rstood by

76 TE E ART or P E B FU M E R Y .

th e prac tical ch em ist , and al though w e are not t r eat

ing the subj ect of per fum ery i n a ch em ical s ens e but ,

only in a practi c al way it m ay not b e inappropria te

,

h ere to obs erv e that th e ess ential oil of al m onds do es

,

n o t e xist r e ady form ed to any ext ent i n th e n u t, but

that it is produc ed by a sp eci es of ferm enta tion , fro m

th e a m ygdalin an d em ulsin e contain ed i n th e al m onds ,
t og eth e r with th e wat er that is ad d ed An alogous .

substanc es exist in laur el l eav es and h enc e th e sam e

,

cou rs e is to b e p u rsu ed wh en th ey ar e distill ed So m e .

m anu factur e rs put th e m oist e n e d cak e into a bag of

coars e cloth , or sp read it u pon a si ev e and th en forc e,

th e st eam thr o u gh it ; in e ith er case, th e ess enti al oil

of th e al m ond ris es with the wat ery vapo r and is con ,

d en sed in th e sti ll worm -

Fourte e n pounds of th e
.

cak e yi eld about o n e ounc e of ess e ntial O i l In this .

conc entr at ed fo r m , th e odo r of al m onds is far fro m

agreeab l e ; but wh en diluted with spirit in th e pro ,

porti on of about o n e and a half ounc e of th e O i l to a

gallon O f spi r it o r alcohol it is v ery pl easant
,
.

T h e essential oil of al m onds e nte rs into co m bina

tion with soap cold c r ea m , and m any oth er m ater ial s
,

prepared by th e p erfu m er ; for whi ch see th eir r e

s ec ti v e titl es
p .

In exp e ri m ents with this substanc e it m ust be care

fully r em em b ered that i t is exceedingly poison ous,
and , th erefo r e, gr eat caution is n ecess ary i n i ts ad
m ixtu r e with substanc es us e d as a cos m etic , oth e rwis e

danger ous r esults m ay ensu e .

ba —
A r tifici al Otto of A lm ond s, oth erwise M iri n a T en
o r tw elv e y e ars ago , M r M ansfi eld , of W eybri dg e,
.

took out a pate nt for th e m an u facture o f otto of al

m onds fro m b en z ol e (B en z ol e is obtain ed fro m tar
.
 ANISE . 77

oil ) Hi s apparatus acco r ding to th e Repo rt of the

.
,

j u ri es of the 1 8 5 1 Exhibition , consists of a l arge glass

tube in th e form o f a coil which at the u ppe r en d,

divid es into two tub es each of which i s provid ed w ith

,

a funn el A stream of nitric acid flows slowly into

.

o n e of th e funn els , and b e n z ol e into th e oth er T he .

two substanc es m eet at th e point of union of th e tub es ,

and a com bination e nsu es with th e evolution of h eat .

A s th e n ewly fo rm ed co m pound flows down through

th e coil it b e co m e s cool and is col l ected at th e low e r
,

e xtre m ity ; it th e n r equir es to b e wash ed with wate r ,

and lastly with a dilute solution of car bonate of soda ,

to ren d er it fit for u se Nitr o b en z ol e which is th e

.
-

ch em ical nam e for this artificial otto of al m onds has ,

a d ifl ere n t odor to th e tru e otto of al m onds but it can

'

n ev e rth el ess b e us ed for p e rfu m ing soap Th e late .

M r M ansfi e ld wrot e to m e u nd e r date January 3 d

.
,

1 8 55 In 1 8 5 1 , M e ssr s G osn el l of Thr ee King

.
,

C ourt b egan to m ak e this p erfum e u nd e r m y lice ns e ;

,

latterly I withd rew th e lic ens e fro m th em by th ei r

con se nt and sinc e th e n it is not m ad e that I am aware
,
”
of. Notwi thstanding this rem a rk of M r M ansfi eld .
,

th e re is pl e nty O f M i riban e in th e L ondo n m ark et ,

and it is quite co m m on i n Paris .

A NI S E — Th e odorous p r incipl e is p r ocu r ed by d is

.

tilling the seeds of th e plant P im p inella anisum the

p roduct is th e O il of an is ee d of co m m er c e A s it con .

geals at a tem p e ratu re of about 5 0 Fahr it is fr e °

.
,

qu ently adult erated with a littl e sp e rm ac eti to giv e ,

a c ertain so lidity to it , wh ereby oth er ch eap er ess e n

tial O ils can b e add ed to it wi th l ess ch anc e O f d etoc
tion A s th e O i l of anis eed is quite sol ubl e in spirit
.
,

!
7
78 TE E ART or P E B FU M E R Y .

and th e sp er m ac eti insol ubl e, th e fraud is easily de

te c ted .

This p erfu m e is exc eedingly strong an d is th ere , ,

fore, w ell adapte d fo r m ixing with soap and for sc e nt

ing po m atu m s but doe s n o t do nic ely i n co m pounds
,

fo r handk er chi ef u se T h e Portugu es e ar e v e ry fond

.

of A nis e .

B AL M otto of B al m , call e d also oil O f M elissa is

, ,

obtain e d by distilling th e l eav es of th e M eli ssa afi ci

n alis with wat er ; it com es fro m th e sti ll tap with th e

cond ensed ste am or water , from which it is s eparated

with th e tap fun n el B ut it is v ery littl e used i n
.

p erfu m ery , if w e exc ept its co m bin ation in A qua di

B ALS A M — U nd er this titl e th ere ar e three substanc es

.

used in p e rfu m ery : th es e ar e balsa m of P er u , balsam

of Tolu , and b alsam Of sto rax Th e fi r st nam e d is .
-

procu r ed fr o m th e Myr oxylon p m iferwn ; it exud e s

fr o m th e tree wh en wound ed , an d is also obtain ed by
boiling down the bark and branch es in wat er Th e .

latte r is th e m ost com m on m ethod of p r ocu r ing it .

It has a str ong odor, lik e b en z oin and vanilla m ixed .

— S ee P E R U .

Balsam of Tolu flows fro m th e Toluifer a balsam um .

It r es em bl es co m m on r esi n ( rosin ); with th e l east

wa r m th how ev er it runs to a liquid lik e b r ow n
, , ,

treacl e T he sm el l o f it is particular ly agr eeabl e

.
,

an d b eing solubl e in alcohol m ak es a good basis for ,

a bouqu et givi n g in this resp ect a p erm an enc e of

,

odo r to a p erfu m e which th e si m pl e solution of an

o il would not poss ess Fo r this p u rpos e all th es e
.

balsam s are v ery us eful tho ugh not so m uch u s ed ,

as th ey m ight b e The proportions ar e : Bal sa m of

.
80 THE ART or P E RE U M E RY .

of its exc essiv e sca r city is suppo sed to b e owi n g to

th e d est r uctio n of Jeru sal em : th e Jews actuate d by ,

d espair and hatred , d estr oyed al l th e balsam pl ants .

Th er e ar e non e now to b e found in Pal e stin e O nly .

o n e plantation is now known to furn ish it an d that ,

is in A r abia P et r ea The whol e plantation only

.

yi elds about three pounds an nually and it is m o n o p ,

o l i z ed by th e G r and S eignior This of cours e w e .

, ,

can scar c ely r efrain fro m noti cing without an ex

p r ession of r egret .

B AY — O i l of sw eet Bay also te r m ed ess e ntial o i l

.
,

O f laur e l b e rri es is a v er y fr agrant substanc e, pro

-

cu r ed by distillation fro m th e b er r i es of th e bay

lau r el (L aurus nobil is) Though v e ry pl e asant it is
.
,

not m uch us ed .

B ERG A M OT — T his m ost us eful p erfu m e is p r ocu r e d

.

fr o m th e C itr us bergam ia by exp r ession fr o m th e p eel

,

of th e fr uit O n e hund r ed fruit will yi eld abo ut three

.

ounc es of the otto It has a soft sw eet odor too w el l

.
,

known to n eed d escription h er e W h en n e w and .

good it h as a g r eenish y ello w tint but los es i ts gr ee n

-

n ess by age esp ecially if k ept in i m p e rfectly co r ked

,

bottl es It th e n b eco m es cloudy fr o m th e d eposit o f

.

r esinous m att er , p r oduc e d by th e contact of th e a i r ,

and acqui r es a tu rp entin e s m ell .

It is b est pres er ved i n w ell stopp ere d bottl es kept

-

i n a cool c ellar and in th e da r k ; light esp ecial ly th e

, ,

di r ect sunshin e quickly d ete ri orates its O do r This

, .

obs ervation m ay be appli ed ind eed to all p erfu m es ,

, ,

exc ept ros e , which is not so spoil e d .

Wh en b ergam ot is m ix ed with oth er ess ential oils ,

it g reatly adds to th ei r r ichn ess and gives a sw eet ,

n ess to spic e oils attainabl e by no oth er m eans , and

 B ENZOIN . 81

such co m pounds ar e m uch us ed in th e m ost highly

sc ented soaps M ix ed with r ectifi ed spirit in th e
.

proportions of about eight oun c es of b e rgam ot to

“
a gallon it fo rm s what i s called e xtract of b er ga
,
”
m ot,
and in this state is us ed for the handker chi ef .

Though w ell cov er ed with extract of orri s and oth e r

m att ers it is th e l eading ingredi e nt i n Bayl ey 8c
,

Bl ew s Ess Bouqu ets — S ee B O UQU ET S

’
. .

B E NZOIN , also call ed B ENJAM I N —This is a v ery .

u s eful substanc e to p e rfu m e rs It exu d es fr om th e .

S ty rax benzoin by wounding th e tree , an d drying be ,

co m es a har d gu m re sin It is prin ci pally i m ported

-
.

fro m Bo r n eo Java Su m atra and Siam

, , T h e b e st
, .

kin d co m es fro m th e latte r pl ac e and used to b e ,

cal l e d Am ygdaloid es b e cause of its b e ing inte r

,

sp er s ed s ev eral white spots , which res em bl e

t ax
S yr ben so i n .

al m onds Wh en h eated , th es e whi te sp ecks

.

a s m ok e, which is e asily cond ens e d upon

Th e m at e ri al thus s e parat e d fro m th e h e n
call ed flow ers of b e n z oin in co m m erce and ,
82 TE E ART or P E R F U M E RY .

by ch em ists is t erm ed b enz oic aci d It has n ea r ly .

all th e odor of th e resin fr o m which it is d e riv ed ;

but which is d ue to a m inute po r tion of a p e c ulia r
otto that ris es in vapo r with the acid This otto O f .

b en z oin has not y et b ee n isolat ed W h en b e n z oic

.

acid is p r epare d by th e hu m id proc ess as is o ft e n ,

don e in th e ch em ical laborato ry , it h as n o odor It .

m ay b e how ev er , that th e b e n z oic acid u nd ergo e s

,

d ecom positi on wh en p r epare d fr o m th e gum r esin

by subli m ation , and thus p r oduces the fr agrant body
which is wanting in that m ad e in th e w et way This .

is p r obabl e for gu m b e n z oin h as b ut littl e or l ess

,

O do r tha n th e acid subli m at e d fr o m it .

M r W B astick re co m m e nds the following proc ess

. .

fo r m aking flow er s of b e n z oin .C oars ely powd er ed

g um b e n z oin is to b e str e w ed on th e flat botto m of a
round i r on pot which has a diam et er of nin e inch es
,

and a h eight of about two inch es O n th e surfac e of

.

th e pot is spr ead a pi ec e of fi lte ring pap er whic h is ,

fasten e d to its r i m by sta r ch paste A cylind e r of v e ry

.

thick pap e r is attach ed by m e ans of a st ring to the top

of th e i r on po t H eat is th en appli ed by placing th e
.

pot on a plate cov ered with sand , ov er the m outh of

a furnac e It m ust r em ain expos ed to a gentl e fi r e
.

fro m four to six hou rs About an ounc e and a hal f

.

of b en z oic acid is obtain ed fro m tw elv e ounc es of

g um b e n z oin by th e first subli m ation A s th e g u
. m

is not exhausted by th e first op eration it m ay b e ,

bruis ed wh en cold and agai n subm it ted to th e actio n

O f h eat , wh en a fr esh portio n of b en z oic acid wil l

subli m e fro m it This acid thus O btain ed is not p er

.

fec tly pu r e and whit e and Dr M oh r states that it

, .

i s a qu estion , in a m edicinal and p e rfu m e ry point of

 s n n zo m . 83

vi e w wh eth e r it is so val uabl e wh en p er fe ctly pure

,

as wh en it contains a s m all portion of a fragrant vol

atil e oil which rises w ith it fro m th e gum in th e p r o
c ess of sublim ation .

Th e L ondon P h arm aco p ts i a dir ects that it shall b e

prepar ed by subli m ation , an d do es not pre scrib e that
it shall be fr ee fro m this oil , to which it p r incipally
ow es its agr eeabl e odo r .

By th e s econd subli m ati on th e whol e of th e hen

z oic acid i s n ot vol atili z ed What rem ains in th e
.

r esin m ay b e s eparated by boiling it with causti c

li m e, and p r ecipitati ng th e acid fr o m the resul ting
b en z oate of li m e with hyd rochlo r ic acid B en z oic .

acid can b e obtain ed also in th e w e t way , an d th e

r esin yi elds a g r e ate r p r oduct in this p r oc ess than in

th e fo r m er ; y e t it has a l ess p e rfu m e ry val u e, b e

caus e i t is free fro m th e volatil e oil which , as abov e
state d giv es it i ts p eculiar odo r Th e w et m eth o d
,
.

d e vis ed by S ch eel e is as follo ws : M ak e o n e ounc e

of fr eshly bu r nt l i m e into a m ilk with from fou r to
six o unc es of hot water To th e m ilk of li m e fou r
.

.
,

ounc es of powd er ed b en z oin and thi r ty ounc es o f

water ar e to b e add ed and th e m ixture boil e d fo r
,

half an hou r and stirr ed du r ing this op er ati on an d

, ,

after war ds strain ed through lin en Th e residu e

.

m ust b e a s e cond ti m e boil e d with tw enty ounc e s

of wat e r and st rai n ed and a t hi r d ti m e with ten

,

ounc e s : the fluid p r od ucts m ust b e m ix ed an d e vap

orated to o n e fourth of th ei r volu m e and suffici ent
-

hyd r ochloric acid add ed to rend er th em slightly

acid Wh en quite cold , th e crystals ar e to be s epa
.

rated fi o m th e fl uid by m eans o f a strain er , upo n

which th ey ar e to b e wash ed with col d w ater and ,
84 TH E ART or P E R F U M E RY .

press ed and th en dissolv ed in hot distill ed wat er

, ,

fr o m which th e c rystals s eparat e on cooling W h en .

hyd r ochlo r ic acid is add ed to a cold conc ent rate d

solu tion of th e salts of b e n z oic acid it is p r ecipitated ,

as a white po w d er If th e sol ut ion of th e salts of

.

this acid is too dilute and wa r m non e or only a por ,

tion of th e b en z oic acid wil l b e s epar ated H ow .

e v er th e w e ak e r th e sol ution is and th e m o r e slowly

, ,

it is cool ed th e la rge r will b e th e c rystals of this

,

acid In th e pr eparation of this acid in th e w et

.

way li m e is to b e p refer red to every oth er bas e b e

, ,

caus e i t form s insolubl e co m binations with th e r esin

ous con stitu ents of th e b en z oin , and b ecaus e it p r e
v ents th e gu m resin fr o m conglo m e r ating into an
adh esive m ass , and also b ecaus e an exc ess of t his
base is but slightly sol ubl e .

T he best ben z oin is obtain ed in S ia m by incisions m ade i n th e

t r unk of th e tree after it has attained the age of fi v e o r six y ea r s
,
.

T h e r esi n is white and t r anspa r ent at fi r st A bout th r ee pounds .

a r e giv e n by e ach t r ee fo r a bo ut si x y ea r s It for m s an a r ticl e o f

.

e xpo r t fr o m S ia m . Fr om S ingapo re th e ex por ts in 1 85 2 w er e to

,

th e e xt e nt of 1 2 8 2 piculs and 1 6 8 picu l s in 1 8 53

, J ava i m po r te d .

last y ear be nja m in of th e valu e of flo r i n s T h e di ffer ent v a .

r i e ti es bear a p r ic e p r opo r tion ed to th ei r goodn ess ; th e fi n est qu al i ty

used to r an ge fr o m IN to 20 l p er p i c n l o f 1 3 3 lbs B en zoin is the

. . .

fr ankince nse o f th e far E ast an d has long been used for incense i n
,

th e Ro m an C atholic the H indu M aho m etan and B ud h isti c tem

, , ,

pl es and p r obably in th e Is r aelitish wo rship W ealthy C hin ese

,
.

fum igate th ei r hous es with its gr ateful od o r —P L S I M ON DS E sq . . .

,

r ead bef or e the Soc iety of A r ts)

( .

Th e xtract o r tinctu r e of b en z oin for m s a good

e , ,

basis for a bouqu et L ik e balsam o f Tolu it giv es

.
,

p er m an enc e and body to a p erfu m e m ad e with an es

se n ti al oil in spi r it .
 c a n awa r — c x sc a a r n u . 85

Th e principal consu m ption of b en z oin is in th e

m anufac tu r e of pas till es (see P a sr rt m s an d fo r th e
)
'

p r eparation of fictitious vanilla pom ad e (See Po u s .

TU M S )
.

E —
B BI R ( Swm r ) S ee EG LAN T I NE . .

C A RAWAY — Thi 8 odoriferous prin cipl e is drawn by

‘

distillation fro m th e s eeds o f th e Chm m Cam i It .

has a v ery pl easant sm ell quite fa m iliar e nough with ,

out d e sc ription It is w el l adapte d to p er fum e soap ,

.

fo r which it is m uch us e d in England though r a r ely ,

if e v e r on the C ontin ent ; wh en dissol v e d in spirit it

m ay be us ed in co m binatio n with oil of lav e nd e r and

b e rgam ot for the m an ufactu r e of ch eap ess enc es i n ,

a si m i lar way to clov es (S ee GLOVE S ) If caraway . .

s eeds ar e gr ound , th ey ar e w ell adapt ed fo r m ixing

to fo r m sach et powd e r (S ee S A CH ET S ) . .

C cs m
as a LA — T h e ba rk is us ed in th e fo r m ation
.

of Frangipani i nc ens e and also e nte rs into th e c o m

,

position known as E a u d B ind er for p e r fu m ing apart ,

m e n s to whi ch w e r e fe r
t , .

Th e bar k alon e o f this plant is us e d b y th e m anu

fac tu r i n g p er fum er Th e atscafl lla gr atisszm a is how
‘

ev e r so frag r ant that acco r ding to Burn ett its l eav es

, ,

ar e gath e r e d by th e Ko r as of th e C ap e of G ood H O p e

as a p erfum e It b ehooves p er fu m e r s , the r efo r e who

.
,

ar e on th e look out for nov e lti es -

to obtain th e s e ,

l eav es and asc er tai n th e result o f th eir distillation .

M ess r s H er ring
. C o , so m e y ear s ago d r e w th e
.
,

oil of cascarilla but it was only offer ed to th e tr ad e

,

as a cu r iosity .

“ ”
Th e cascarilla (m e aning littl e ba r k in Span ish) ,

of co m m erc e is d eriv ed acco r ding to S i r W H ooker,

, .

8
86 THE A RT or P E R F U M E RY .

fr o m th e Crown f ragrans, a native plant of S outh

Am e rica .

C am p n oa .
— This b eautiful and fr agrant substanc e
is produced by s ev er al plan ts particular ly D ry/abalo ,

n ops Cam p hor a, th e C a m phor t r ee of Su m atra and

Japan T h e ki nd how ev e r m ostly found in c o m

.
, ,

m er c e is d e riv ed fro m th e L aurus Ca m p ho m or cam ,

pho r laurel of th e island of Form osa , carri ed th enc e

to C anton from which port th e m ar ke ts of th e wo rld
,

ar e suppli ed Th e ca m pho r exists natu rally w ithin

.

th e tr e e r eady form ed : on splitting th e wood it is ,

found in m ass e s tw elv e to eighteen inch es long b e ,

tw een th e ba r k and th e s tem and in th e pith , .

Th er e is a rac e o f m en call ed Nyr C app o o rs, o r c am -

ph o r s ee rs who prete nd to hav e th e pow er of distin

-

gni eb ing the m ost p r ofitabl e tr ees to fell M any tr ees .

ar e how ev e r cut down at th eir insti gation , without

, ,

havi n g any c ryptse of cam phor in th em Eve ry part .

of th e L am us Cam p hor a contains cam phor which is

'

e xtrac te d by choppi n g th e b r anch e s and boiling th em

in wate r Th e ca m phor ris es to the surfac e and be

.
,

co m es solid as th e wate r cools : in som e in sta nc es ,

th e boil e r i n which th e op e ration is con d uct ed is

cov e r e d with an earth en do m e lin ed with rice str aw ; -

as th e water boils th e cam phor ris es with the steam

, ,

and attach es its elf to th e straw , fr o m which it is after

wards pick e d and th en pack ed fo r exportation
, .

T he cam pho r as found in th e shops in England is

”
r efin e d , and is not i n th e o r iginal condition i n
which it is b r ought to Eu r op e T h e purification or .

r efining of cam phor w as at o n e ti m e h eld as a m o n op

o ly at V e nic e but is now don e in al l th e lar ge citi es
,

of Europ e T he proc e ss is si m pl e and consists of

.
,
88 THE A RT or P E R FU M E B Y .

u nti l su ffici ent rich n ess of p e rfu m e is obtain ed A s .

m any flow er s ar e u s e d as th e flu i d gr e as e will cov e r ,

wh e n th ey ar e put into it T h e val u e of cassi e buds

.

is fro m fi v e francs to eight fr ancs th e kilogr am m e ,

and it requires two kilogram m es of flow e rs to p er

fu m e o n e ki l ogram m e of gr eas e .

After b eing st r ain ed , an d th e po m ad e h as been

k ept at a h eat su ffi ci ent on l y to r e tain its liquidity ,

all i m puriti es will subsid e by standing for a few ,

days Final ly cool ed it is th e cassi e po m ad e o f

.
,

co m m er ce Th e H uile dc Cassie, or fat oil o f cassi e,

.
-

is pr epar ed in a si m ilar m ann er , substi tuting olive

oil o r al m ond oil in pl ac e of su et Both th es e p r ep .

ar ati o n s ar e obviously only a sol ution of th e t r u e

ess ential oil of cassi e flo w e rs in th e n e utral fatty

body Eu rop e m ay shortly b e exp ected to i m port a

.

sim ilar sc en ted pom ad e fro m South A ustralia d eriv ed ,

fr om th e wattl e a plant that b el ongs to th e Sam e

,

g en u s as th e A fam eszana and w hich grows m ost

'

.
,

l uxu r iantly in A ustr alia M utton fat b eing ch eap ,

.

an d th e wattl e pl entiful , a p r ofitabl e tr ad e m ay b e

anticipat ed in curing the flow er s &c , .

To p r epar e th e ex tm ct of cassie tak e six pounds of ,

No 2 4 (b est quality) cassi e po m ad e and plac e u pon

.
,

it o n e gallon of th e b est r ecti fi ed spirit , as s ent out

by Bow e rbank of B i shopsgate After it has digeste d
, .

fo r thr ee w eeks or a m onth at a su m m er h eat it is , ,

fit to draw fr o m th e pom atu m and if good has a , , ,

b eauti ful olivac eous gr een color an d rich flow ery

s m ell of th e cassi e blosso m A ll e xtr acts m ad e by
.

th is proc ess give a m ore natural sm e ll of th e flower s

to th e r esult , than by m er ely dissolving th e e ss ential
oil (procure d by distillation ) in th e spirit ; m oreov er ,
 c assr s . 89

wh er e th e odor of th e flow er exists in only very m i

n u te quantiti es as in th e p r es ent instanc e and with
, ,

viol et jas m in e &c , it is th e only p r actical m od e of

, , .

p r o c e eding .

In this and all oth e r si m ila r cas es th e po m atu m ,

m ust b e cut up into v er y s m all pi ec es after the do ,

”
m esti c m ann e r of chopping su et p r io r to its b eing ,

infuse d i n th e alcohol T h e action of the m ixtu r e is

.

si m ply a change of pl ac e in the odori fer ous m a tte r ,

which l eave s the fat body by th e sup er io r attraction ,

o r affinity as th e ch em ists say of th e spi r its of win e

, , ,

i n which it fr eely dissolv es .

Th e m ajo r par t of th e extract can b e pou r ed o r

d r awn o ff th e po m atum without tr oubl e but it still ,

retains a portio n i n th e inte rstic es which r equir e s ,

ti m e to drain away and this m ust b e assiste d by

,

p l acing the po m atu m in a larg e funn el suppo r ted by ,

a bo ttl e , in o rd e r to coll ect th e rem aind er Finally .

,

all th e po m atu m which is now call ed washed p om a

,

tum is to b e put into a tin or copp er can which can

, ,

m us t b e set in hot wat er fo r th e pu r pos e of m elting

,

its conte n ts ; wh en th e po m atu m thus b ecom es liqu e

fi e d any e xt r act t h at is stil l in it ris e s to th e sur fac e,
,

,
and m ay be ski m m ed o ff ; o r wh e n th e po m atu m b e
,

co m es cold it can b e poured fro m it

, .

The wash e d po m atu m is pres erv ed fo r u se in the

m an ufactu r e of d r e ssing for th e hai r for which
p ur ,

pos e i t is e xc eedingly w ell adapted , on account of th e

purity of th e gr eas e fr o m which it was o r iginally p r e
par ed but m o r e par ticular ly on acco u nt of a c e rtain
,

po rtion of odo r wh ich it stil l r etains ; and w er e it not

us e d up i n this way it would b e ad visabl e to put
,

it for a s econd in fusion in spirit and t hus a w eaker ,

*
8
90 THE A RT or P E RF U M E RY .

e xt r act could b e m ade s ervic eabl e for low er pric ed

arti cl es .

I cannot l e ave cassi e without r eco m m ending i t

m o r e esp ecially to th e notic e of p er fu m ers and d r ug

gists as an articl e w ell adapted fo r th e purpos e of the

,

m anufactu r e o f ess e nc es for th e handk er chi ef and

po m ades fo r th e hai r Wh e n diluted with oth e r .

odo r s it i m parts to th e whol e such a tr u e flowery

,

fr agr anc e that it is th e ad m i r ation of all who s m ell

,

it and has not a littl e contributed to th e great sal e

,

w hich c e r tain propri etary a r ticl es have attain e d .

W e caution th e in exp eri e nc e d not to confound c as

si e with cassia which has a totally diffe r ent odo r
, .

S ee A C A C IA P OM AD E .

a C E DA R — This w ood has b een fam ous since th e days

.

of Solom on , who em ploy e d it in th e constru ction o f

th e T em pl e Th e wood now and th en finds a plac e
.

’
in a p e rfu m er s wa r ehous e ; w h en ground , it do es
w el l to form a b o dy of sac h e t powd e r S lips of c edar .

wood ar e sold as m atch es for lighting lam ps be caus e , ,

whil e bu r ning an agr eeabl e odor is evolv ed ; so m e

,

p e opl e u se it also in this con dition , distr ibut ed am ong

cloth es in draw ers to p r ev ent m oth O n distilla .

tion it yi elds an ess ential oil that i s exc ee dingly fl a n

grant and which is us ed extensiv ely for sc enti n g

,

what is call ed cold cre a m soap .

L E B A N O N C ED A R W OO D .

O tto ceda r
of ,
1 o z.

B ec ti fied spi r it , 1 pint .

E sp ri t r ose tr ip , 1 pin t
»
.

Sinc e th e publicati on of the first e dition of this

 c s D R A T. 91

wo r k ot to of c edar wood which was v e ry scar c e has

, , ,

b een s ent e xt ensiv ely into th e m a rk et M ess r s . .

H odgkinson
~
C o , of Snow H ill hav e p r oduc e d 28
.
,

ou nc es fro m th e cwt of shavings b eing the r efus e of

.
,
“
th e p encil m ak ers -
The p en cil c edar is th e
. Vir
”
g inian or A m e rican c edar Jun ip erus Vi rgin ian s
, .

T he tru e L ebanon c edar , Cedr us L iban i and fr o m ,

which th e handk er chi e f p erfu m e is nam ed yi elds a

v e ry indiffe re nt otto and odo r to th e Am erican plant .

”
T he C e da r s of L ebanon ar e so fam iliar how ev er , ,

that p e rfu m e rs could not afford to change the titl e of

th e sc e nt th ey m ak e, for th e r ed wood of th e W est ,

though th e latt er is supe rio r to th e for m er in fr a

g r an ee .

C e dria an oil or resin ext ract ed fro m a c edar , was

, ,

according to V it r uvius (a c el ebrated ar chit ect in the

age of A ugustu s us ed to s m ear ov e r th e l e av es of th e
) ,

p apyr us to p r ev ent the attack of ins ects ; and P liny

sta te s that th e Egypti ans appli ed it with oth er drugs
in th e p r eparation of th ei r m u m m i es .

Th e tinctu r e of c edar s m ells agr eeably of th e wood ,

fr o m which i t can r eadi ly b e m ad e by steeping the

c e dar wood i n proof spirit Its cri m son colo r , how .

ev e r , prohibits i t fro m b eing u s ed fo r th e han dker

chi ef It form s an exc ell e nt tincture fo r th e tee th
.
,

and is th e basi s of th e c el eb r ated F r ench d entifr i ce

“ ”
E au B oto t .

Cu mi n — This p e rfu m e is pr ocur e d fro m the rind

of th e citron fr uit ( Ci tr us m edica) both by distillatio n ,

an d exp r ession ; it h as a v ery b e auti fu l l em ony odo r ,

and is m uch ad m i r ed It is principal ly u s ed in th e

.

m anu fac tu r e of ess enc es fo r th e handk erchi ef, b eing

too expe nsiv e fo r pe rfum ing grease or so ap What .

92 TH E A RT or P E R F U M E RY
.

is call ed extract of c edrat is m ade by dissol v ing two

ounc es o f th e abov e e ss ential oil of citron in o n e pint
of spirits , to which so m e p erfu m e rs add half an ounc e
of b erga m ot .

0 C m m n om — S ev e ral sp eci es of th e plant L azarus

Cin nam om um yi eld th e cinnam on and cassia of c om
m e rc e . Its nam e is said to b e d er ived fr o m China
A m om um th e ba r k b eing o n e of th e m ost valu e d spic es
,

of th e East P erfu m e rs use both th e bark and the

.

oil which is obtai n ed by distillation fro m it T he

, .

ground bar k e nte rs into th e com position of so m e

pastill es tooth powd er s , and sach ets The ess ential
, .

oil of cinnam on is principally brought to this count ry

fro m C eylon ; it is exc ee dingly po w erful and m ust ,

b e us e d sparingly In such co m pounds as clov es

.

answer so will cinnam on

, .

A r tific ial Pr epar ation of Oil of C in nam on — So m e y ears

sinc e St r eck e r show ed that styron e, which is oh
ta i n ed wh en sty rac i n e is tr e ate d with po tash is th e ,

alcohol of cinnam ic acid Wol ff h as conv e rted this

.

alcohol by oxidi z ing agen ts i nto cinnam ic acid T h e

, , .

autho r has now p r ov ed that u nd er the sam e condi

ti ons by which o r dinary alcohol affo r ds ald ehyd e ,

sty r e n e affo r ds th e ald ehyd e of cinna m ic acid , that

is oil of cinnam on It is only n ec essa ry to m oisten

, .

platinu m black with sty r on e an d l et it r e m ain i n th e

,

ai r so m e days wh e n by m e ans of th e bisulphate of

,

potash th e ald ehyd e doubl e co m pound m ay be o b

tai n e d i n c rystals which should b e wash e d in eth er
, .

By th e addition of dilute d sulphu r ic acid th e ald e ,

hyd e of cinnam ic acid is afte r war ds p r ocu r ed pu r e .

Th es e c rystals also dissolve in nit r ic acid and th e n ,

fo rm , afte r a few m om ents crystals of the nitrate ,

 C I T RON— C I T RON E L L A . 93

of the hy d u r et of c i n n am yl e Th e conv ersion of .

sty r e n e into th e hy d u r et of cinnam yl s by th e acti on

of th e plati nu m blac k is shown by th e fol l owing

e quation : C l ,3 H m O , 2 0 C I, H 8 0 2 2 HO .

Com p tes R end us .

C I T R ON .

S har p tasted cit r on M edian cli m es p r oduce ;

-
,

L ar ge is th e plant and lik e a lau r el gr ows ;

,

A n d did it not a d iflcr cn t scen t disclose

‘

, ,

A lau re l w er e . a o rL G eor gi a , ,
1 1 , 1 80 .

O n distilling th e flow er s of th e Ci trus m edica a v ery ,

fr ag rant oil is pr ocu r ed , which is a sp eci es of n er oli ,

and is principal ly consu m e d by th e m anufactu r ers o f
H ungary wat er .

C I T RON E LLA — U n d er this n am e th er e is an oil in

.

th e m a r k et chi efly fr o m
,
C eylon It is p r ocu r ed by .

distilli n g th e l eav es of th e A n dr op ogon Schoenan thus,

which grows wild , and is v e ry abundant in C eylon .

In th e n eighbor hoods of G all e and of C olo m bo i n ,

th at island , la rge t r acts of lan d ar e und er cultivation

of this plant fo r th e exp r ess pu rpos e of p r ocuring
,

th e odorifer ous pr i ncipl e .

Th e av erag e expo r t of citron ella fro m th e po r t of

C olo m bo is about 400 0 l bs annually M r Thwaites , . . .

of th e Royal Botanic G ar d ens , has kindly p ro m is ed

to s end m e growing plants of the citr on ella , which I
shal l d eposit at Kew , o r in R ege nt s Par k G ar d ens , ’

as soon as th ey co m e to hand *
.

C it r on ella b eing ch eap (th e export pric e at C olo m bo

is 43 1 d p er p o un d it is ext ensiv ely u s ed for p er
. .

fu m ing so ap What is now extensiv el y sold as

.

”
hon ey soap is a fi n e y ellow soap slightly p erfu m ed

L eta} dated A ugust 14 th , 1 856 .

94 TH E A RT or PEB FU M E B Y .

with this oil So m e few u se it for sc enting greas e

.
,

but it is not m uch ad m i r ed in that way .

C Lov E s — Ev ery part of th e clov e plant Ca o

.

( m
h
p yltus ar om atic us) abounds with aro m atic oil but it is ,

m ost fragrant and pl entifu l in th e un expand e d fl o w e

r
buds which ar e th e clov es of co m m er ce C lov es have
, .

b een brought into the Eu r op ean m arket for m o r e than

20 0 0 y ears T h e plant is a nati v e of th e M oluccas
.

C lov e .

and oth er islands i n th e C hin es e s eas T he aver age

.

” “
annual c r op of cloves says B ur n ett, is fro m each
,

t r ee 2 o r 2 } lb s ; but a fi n e t ree has b een known to

.

yi eld 1 2 5 lbs of this spic e i n a singl e s eason , and as

.

5 0 0 0 clov es only w eigh o n e pound th ere m ust hav e

,
”
b ee n at l east flow er s upon this singl e t ree .

T h e otto of cloves m ay be obtain e d by expr essio n

fr o m th e fresh fl ow er buds but th e usual m ethod of
-

procu r ing it is by distillation , which is car r i e d o n to

a v ery gr eat ext ent i n this count ry Few e ss ential .

oils hav e a m o r e ext ensiv e u se in p e rfu m ery than

that of clov es ; it co m bin es w ell with g reas e soap and , ,

s pi ri t and as will b e s ee n in th e recip es for th e various

, ,
.

bouqu ets given h e reafte r it fo rm s a l ead i ng featu r e

,
96 THE ART or PEB FU M E R Y .

advantage if i n s m all proporti ons , and m ix ed with

,

oth er oils for p erfu m ing soap

, .

E G L ANTINR or S W E ET B al s a notwithstanding what

,
-

th e po et Rob e rt Noy es says ,

I n fr agr ance yi elds ,

S u r passi ng citr on gr ov es o r spicy fi elds ,

do es not fin d a plac e in th e p er fu m er s sc ent roo m ’

-

exc ept in nam e This like m any oth er sw eet sc ente d

.
,
-

plants do es not repay th e labor o f coll ecting its odor

, .

T he frag r ant part of this plant is d estroy ed m o r e or

l ess u nd e r eve ry tr eatm e nt that it is put to an d h enc e ,

it is discard ed As how e ve r th e a rticl e is in d em and

.
, ,

by th e public , a sp eci es offraud is practi s ed upon th em ,

by i m itating it thus
I M ITA TI O N E G LA N TI N E o r E sss n cn o r S WE E T B RI E B
,
-
.

S pi r ituous extr ac t of F r ench r os e po m atu m 1 pint , .

C assi e , 1 pint .

F l eur d o rang e '

5 pint , .

E sp r it d e r ose , 1 pint .

O i l o f n er oli
, Q dr ac h m .

O i l o f l em on gr ass ( v er be na oil )
-

Q d r
, ac h m .

E LD ( Sam bucus — T h
only prepa ration of
i
ER ng r a
) . e

this plant fo r its odo r ous quality used by th e p er

, ,

fu m e r is eld e r fl o w e r water T o p r epa r e it take

,
-
.
,

nin e po u n d s of eld er flo w e rs fr ee fr o m stalk and ih

-

, ,

tr o d uc e it to th e stil l with fou r gallons of wat er ; th e

fi rst th r ee gallons that co m e ove r is all that n eed b e
pr es er v ed for use ; o n e ou nc e of r ectifi ed spirits
”
should be add ed to each gallon of water d istill ed ,
and wh en bottl e d it is r eady for u se .

KRE M E S r eco m m ends th e following proc ess fo r m ak

ing a conc entrated eld er fl o w er water fro m which -

h e sta tes th e ordinary wat e r can b e ex tem p o ran e

 F ENNE —
L FLAG . 97

on ely p repared , of exc ell ent quality and of u nifo rm ,

st re ngth
12 lbs o f th e flow er s are to be distill ed with water until that
.

which passes into th e r ec eiv er has lost n ea r ly all pe r fu m e This .

will gen er ally happe n wh en fr om 1 5 to 1 8 po unds hav e pass ed

over To th e distill a te 1 2 lbs o f alcohol ar e to be added and th e
.
, .
,

m ixtu r e distill ed unti l about 5 l bs ar e coll ected This liquo r con

. .

tains all th e odor o f the flower s T o m ak e th e or dinar y water 2

.
,

ounces o f th e conc entr ated water ar e to be added to 1 0 ounces o f

distill ed water B uc lm er s Rep er i
.
-
’
.

O th er p r epa rations of eld er flo w ers ad e such -

ar e m ,

as m ilk of eld e r extract of eld er &c which will b e

, ,
.
,

fou nd in th ei r p r op er plac e und er C os m etics T w o .

o r th r ee n ew m ater ials m ad e fr o m this flow e r wil l

also b e given h er eafter , which ar e lik ely to m ee t with
a v er y la rg e sal e on account of th e reputed cooling
qualiti es of th e ingr edi e nts ; of th es e w e would cal l
atte ntion m o r e particular ly to cold c r eam of eld e r
flo w e r s and to eld er oil fo r th e hai r
, .

T h e p r epar ations of th e elde r flo w er s if m ad e ac -

cording to th e Ph ar m aco pm i as ar e p er fectly us el ess , ,

as th e fo r m s th e rein give n sho w an utt er want of

knowl edge of th e prop e rti es of th e m at er ials em
ploy ed .

—
F E NN E L (Fwnicul am vulgar e) D ri ed fenn el h erb .
,

wh e n ground ente r s into th e co m position of so m e

,

sach et powd ers Th e oil of fe nn el i n conj unction

.
,

with oth er a r o m atic oils m ay b e us ed fo r p e rfu m ing,

soap It is procu r abl e by distillation

. .

F L AG (SW E ET) (A cor ns Calam us) — T h e roots or .

,

rhi z o m e of th e sw eet flag yi eld by distillation a

, ,

pl easant s m elling oil ; 1 cwt of th e r hi z o m e will thus

-
.

yi eld o n e pound of oil It can b e used accor ding to.

th e pl easure of th e m anu facture r in sc e nting g r ease ,

9
98 THE A RT or P E R FU M E B Y .

soap or fo r extraits , but r equires oth er sw ee t oils

,

with it to hid e its origin .

F A G I PA I (
R N N P lum er ia —
A lba) This plant which is .
,
“ ”
said to yi eld th e eternal p e rfu m e so pop ula r at ,

th e p r es ent day is a nativ e of th e We st India Islands

, .

In A ntigua and at St Do m ingo it grows in g r eat .

abundanc e H aving through m y fr i end H B ridge r

.
,
.
,

Esq o f th e form e r plac e obtain ed a fe w of th e plants

.
, , ,

I fo r w ar d ed th em to the Royal G a r d ens , Kew Th e .

fo llowing r em ar ks th e reon by S i r W H ook e r are .

w orthy of r eco r d :
ROY A L G A R a s a A ugust 1 4 , , .

MY D EAR S IB
I thank you m uch fo r the F r angipani plants O n e and o n e .

only shows life ; but I hav e ever y r eason to think it will recover ,

and th en an d not til l th en w e shall see e xactly what speci es o f

, ,

P lu m er ia it is .

I do not find in you r wor k that th e odor o f th e flower s is pre

serv ed and us ed in this countr y A F r ench autho r ( D esc o ur sil z .
,

i n h is F lore d es A ntill es ) says L es par fu m eur s r ech er ch e nt c ette

,

od eu r fugace qu i l s sav e nt fix er dans l eur s po m m ad es et l eu r s

,
’

huil es cos m étiqu es ”

This is said o f P lu m er ia alba ; but all the
.

species an d th er e are sev er al hav e the sam e agr eeabl e odor wh en

, ,

l iving Our Flor as of th e W est Indi es do not spe ak o f such a use

.

be i ng m ade of th e flowers Y o u hav e th e power of i m i tating it .

from oth er v egetabl es .

O n looking fu r th er into this subj ect I find it stated by S i r J am es ,

S m ith that th e F r ench na m e o f all th e species is F r angipani and ,

that th ey are so called fr o m th e r esem blance o f th ei r fr ag r an ce to a

w ell known per fu m e of F r ance Fr angip an i ; i ts inv entor an
-
“ ”
, ,

Italian was o f th e a gip an i f am i ly so conspicuous in th e Ro m an

, ,

distu r banc es .

I suspect th en that n o per fum e is der iv ed fr om th ese flower s : th e

'

r eal Fr angip a i being d er iv ed fr o m

n oth er flow er s as d esc r ibed in ,

you r wor k 2d edition ,

.

V er y t r uly you r s ,

W J H OOK E R . . .

P S Th e j uic e of all th e P lu m er ias is m ilky and v er y poisonous

. . .

O n e spec i es w as in flow er with us l ast w ee k .

T o S P rassE , E sq
. .
1 00 TE E ART or PER FU M E RY .

that th e p erfu m ing ess ential oils ar e b est purchased

throu gh th e whol esal e p er fu m e rs , as fr o m th e nature
of th ei r t rad e th ey hav e a b etter knowl ed ge and
m eans of obtaining the real articl e than th e dru g

b r ok er O n account of th e pl easing odor of the t r u e

.

oil of r os e l eaf ger aniu m it is a valuabl e articl e fo r

-

p er fu m ing m any m ate rials and app ea rs to giv e th e ,

public gre at satisfacti on Rec en tly so m e fi n e sam .

p l es o f otto of g eraniu m hav e b een brought to Eng

land b eing th e prod uce o f Spain , v ery n ear ly as good
,

as th e otto i m port ed from G r ass e It was sold at 38 . .

6 d p er ounc e
. .

H EDIOS M IA — A sc ent suppos e d to b e d e riv ed fro m

.

th e H edyosm um an indig enous sh r ub of Ja m aica

, .

H E LI OT R OP E — Eith er by m ac er ation o r en fl eur age

.

with clari fi ed fat w e m ay O btain this fi n e odor from

,

th e flow e r s of th e H el iotr op ium p eruvianum o r H gr an .

d iflor um Exquisite as th e odor of this plant is at

.
,

p r es ent it is n o t appli ed to use by th e m anu facturing

p erfu m er This w e th i nk ra th e r a singular fac t se
.
,

p e c i al l
y as th e p erfu m e is pow e rful and th e flow e rs ,

abundant W e should like to h ear of so m e ex p eri

.

m e nts b e ing tri ed with this plant fo r p r ocu rin g its

odor i n this country , an d fo r that pu r pos e n o w sug

g est th e m od e of op e ration which would m ost lik ely
l e ad to succ essful r esults Fo r a s m all trial in th e .

first instanc e, which can b e m anaged by any p er son

h avi n g th e r u n of a gar d en , w e will say , p ro cur e an
ordinary glu e pot now i n co m m on u se which m elts
-

the m at erial by th e boiling of wat e r ; it is in fact a

water bath , i n ch em ical parlanc e— o n e capabl e o f
-

holding a pound or m ore of m elte d fat A t th e .

s eason wh en th e flow e rs ar e in bloom , obtai n a poun d

.
 E E LI OT ROP E . 1 01

of fi n e lard m elt th e lard and strain it through a

,

cl os e hair si eve allow th e liqu efi ed fat as it falls fro m

-

, ,

th e si e v e to d r op into cold spring wate r ; this op e ra

,

tion granulates and wash es the blood and m em bran e

from it In o r d er to star t with a p er fec tly i n o d o ro us
.

gre as e the m elting an d granulation p r oc ess m ay b e

,

r ep eate d th r ee or four ti m e s u sing a pinch of salt ,

and a pinch of alu m in each wate r ; it is th e n to b e

wash ed fi v e o r six ti m es in plain wate r ; finally r e ,

m elt th e fat ; and cast it in to a p an to fr e e it fro m

ad he ring water .

N ow put the clarifi ed lard into th e m ac erati n g pot ,

and place it i n such a p o sition n ear the fi r e of th e

g re e nhous e or els ewh er e that w ill k ee p it wa r m
, ,

e nough to b e liquid ; into th e fat th r ow as m any

flo w ers as you can and th e re l et th em r em ain for

,

tw enty four hours ; at this ti m e strain th e fat fr o m

-

th e sp e n t flow er s and add fr esh on es ; r ep eat this

op er ation fo r a w eek : w e exp ect at th e last str aining
th e fat will hav e b e co m e v e ry highly p erfu m ed and ,

wh e n cold m ay be j ustly te rm e d P om m ade (2 la H élio

,

tr op e
.

The cold po m ad e b eing chopp ed up lik e su et fo r a ,

pudding is now to b e put into a wid e m outh ed bottl e

,
-

and cov e r e d with spirits as high ly r ectifi ed as c an b e

o btain ed and l eft to digest fo r a w eek o r m o r e ; the
,

spiri t th e n strain ed o ff will be highly p er fu m e d ; i n

r eality it will b e ex tract of helio tr op e a d elightful p er ,

fu m e fo r th e handk er chief Th e r ational e of th e .

op e ration is si m pl e e nough ; the fat body has a str ong

afii n i ty o r attraction for the odorous body o r esse ntial ,

O il of th e flow e rs and it th e r efo r e abso r bs it by con

,

tac t , and be co m es i tsel f p e rfum ed In the se cond .

1 02 THE ART or P E RF U M E RY .

op eration , th e spirit h as a m uch greate r attraction for

th e fr agr an t p r incipl e than th e fatty m att e r ; the
form er th erefor e b eco m e s p er fu m e d at th e exp e nse
, ,

of the latter The sam e exp e ri m ent m ay b e rep eated

.

with al m ond o i l substitu ted for th e fat, or th e p r oc ess

'

of e n fl eu rage m ay b e adopted .

T h e exp eri m ent h ere hint e d at m ay b e vari ed with

any flow er s that th ere ar e to spar e ; inde ed by having ,

th e m acer ati n g bath la rger than was m ention ed above ,

an exc ell ent m illefleur po m ad e and ess enc e m ight b e

produced fr o m e v er y cons e r vato ry in th e kingdo m ,

an d thus w e m ay r ec e iv e an oth er enjoy m e nt fr o m th e

cultivation of flow ers b eyond th ei r b eauty of form
and color .

W e hop e that thos e of our read e rs who feel inclin e d

to try exp e ri m ents o f this nature will not b e d ete rr ed
”
by saying ,
Th ey ar e not wo r th th e t r oubl e It .

m ust b e r em em b er ed , that v ery fi n e ess e nc e s r eali z e

in th e L ondon p e rfu m ery wa r ehous es 1 6 3 p er pint o f .

2 0 ounc e s and that fi n e fi owar scen ted po m ad es fe tch

,
-

th e sa m e su m p e r pound If th e exp e ri m ents ar e

.

succ essful th ey should b e publish ed as th en w e m ay

, ,

hop e to establish a n ew and i m portant m anu fac ture

in this country or our warm coloni es But w e are
,
.

dig ressing .

T he odo r of h eliotrop e r es em bl es a m i xtu re of al

m onds and vanilla an d is w e ll i m itat e d thus
,

E X TRAC T o r H E LI O TR O P E .

S pi r ituous ext r act o f vanilla ,

F r ench r ose pom atu m ,

orange flo wer pom atu m

-
,

am b er gr i s ,

E ss e ntial oil o f al m onds ,

1 04 TH E A RT or P E B FU M E B Y .

H OV EN IA — A p erfu m e u nd er this nam e is sold to

.

a li m ite d ext ent but i f it did not s m el l b ette r than

,

th e plant H ovenia dulc is or H inasqualis, a native of . .

Japan it would not se ll at all

, T he articl e i n th e .

m a r ke t i s m ad e thus

I M IT A TI O N E sS E NC E HO V E N I A
Rec ti fled spi r it ,

Ros e water -
,

O tto l em ons ,

r os e ,

clov es ,

n er oli ,

Fi rst dissolv e the ottos i n th e spirit th en add th e ,

ros e w ater A fte r filtration it is ready for sal e Wh en

-
. .

co m pounds of this kind do not b e co m e bright by

passing th r ough blotting pap e r, th e ad dition of a littl e -

carbonate of m agn esia prio r to fi lter ing effectually ,

cl ears th em Th e wate r in th e abov e r ecip e is only

.

added i n o r d er that th e articl e produc ed m ay b e re

tail ed at a m od er ate pric e and would , of cou rs e , b e ,
”
b etter without that unive rsal fri end .

JA S M I NE .

L uxu r iant abov e all ,

The jas m in e th r owing wide h er el egant swee ts .

This flowe r is o n e of th e m ost pri z e d by the p er

fu m er Its odo r is d elicate and sw eet, and so pe culiar
.

that it is without co m pa rison and as such c annot be ,

I m itated W h en th e flowe rs of th e Jasm inum ador a

.

tissi m um ar e distill ed , r ep eat edly using th e water of

distillation over fr esh flow ers the ess ential o i l o f jas ,

m in e m ay b e procure d It is how ev er exc eedingly .

, ,

r a r e on ac count of the e nor m ous c o st of produc tion

,
.
 J ASM INE . 1 05

Th er e w as a fi n e sam pl e of six ounc es exh ibited in

th e Tunisian d epa r tm e nt o f th e C r ystal Palac e , th e
pric e of which was 9l th e fluid ounc e ! The plant is
.

th e Y asm yn of th e A rabs fro m which our nam e is ,

d er iv ed .

T h e cultivation of th e j asm in e is v e ry ext ensiv e at

C ann es (d u D épart em e nt d a V ar ) in th e south of
Franc e Th e m anufacturing p erfu m e rs th e re do not
.

gr ow all th e j asm in e th ey consu m e but ar e suppli ed ,

with s m all lots of flow ers fro m various cottagers , who

,

have littl e plots of th e plants ev ery m o r ning i n th e ,

s eason T h e cost of th es e flow ers is fro m two to

.

th r ee francs th e kil ogram m e, e qual to about 1 3 Get to . .

28 6 d th e poun d ; in this way th e principal h ous es

. .

r ec e iv e daily fr o m o n e to two hund r edw eight of blos

so m s ! T h e cultivate d j as m in e differs from that j as
m in e w e hav e in England inas m uch as th e blosso m s
,

ar e fou r ti m es th e si z e of th e Briti sh or wild j as m in e ;

the plant also grows m o r e lik e a s m all bush and not , ,

b eing a creep er , requi r es no supports ; it is in fact , ,

th e Jasm in Gr andiflor a of th e botanis ts Its growth .

and cultivation r es em bl e v er y m uch that of English

lav end e r .

A lphons e Ker r h as thus d escr ib ed a sal e of so m e

j essam in es at Nic e
Th e oth er day I saw two cultivator s i n a gar de n ; o n e was buying .

o f th e oth er fou r thousand Sp anish j essam in e r oots I was n o t pr es

.

en t at th e st r uggl e but it m ust h av e bee n h o t an d passi o n ate

,
.

Wh en I ar r i v ed the sal e of th e j essam in es was concluded Th e

,
.

or dina ry pr ice of the S pa nish j essa m in e is fr om th r ee to fiv e fr a n cs

th e hund r ed r oots Th es e j essam in es w ere spl endidly loaded with
.

lar ge white flow er s and pinkish viol et buds T h e b uy er took a .

p i e kax e and up r oote d th em I thought

. h e w as m ad Fo r j essa .

m in es to r n up in full flow er i n g in th e m onth o f A ugust would in ,

1 06 TE E ART or P E R FU M E B Y .

F r ance be o n sider ed enti re ly lost an d fit only to be ti ed up i n

c ,

bundl es fo r fi r ewood B ut this m an instead car r i ed his j essa m in es

.
, ,

ho m e plante d th e m in the g r ound th r ew a few buckets of water

, ,

ov er th em and l eft th em to th em s elv es Th ree days aft er wa rds I

, .

w ent to see th em ; th ey w ere in sple ndid condition and had n o t ,

c eased flow er ing .

In th e p erfu m er s laboratory , th e m ethod of obtain

’

ing th e O do r is by absorption or as th e F r en ch te rm , ,

it enfleur age; that is by spreading a m ixtu re of pu r e

, ,

lard and b eef su e t on a glass tray (chassis en verr e) ,

and sprinkling th e fr esh gath ered flow ers all ove r it -

l eaving th em to stand a day o r so , and rep eating th e

op eration with fresh flow ers du r ing the whol e ti m e th e
j as m in e plant is i n blosso m which is fo r m o r e than
.
,

six w eeks ; th e greas e absorbs th e odor Finally th e .

,

p o m ad e is scrap e d o ff th e glass m elt e d at as low a ,

tem p e rature as possibl e and strain ed It requi res at , .

l east th r ee kilog ra m m es of flow er s to p erfu m e o n e

kilogr am m e of g r eas e ,

O ils st rongly i m pregnated with the fragranc e ar e

also p r epare d m uch in th e sam e way C otton cloths .

m olle ton de coton

( ) p r e viously ste ep e d in oliv e oil ar e
, ,

covere d with j asm in e flow er s which is rep eate d ,

s eve ral ti m es ; finally th e cotton cloths are squ eez ed

,
.

u nd e r a press T h e j as m in e oil thus produc ed is th e

.

H uile an tique au jasm in of th e Fr e nch hous es ( S ee .

E NF LE U RA G E page
,

Th e Ext r act of Jas m in e is pr epar ed by pouring

r ectifie d spirit on the jas m in e po m ad e or oil and ,

allowing th em to r em ain togeth er fo r a fo rtnight at ,

a su m m e r h eat T he best quality ext rac t r e qui r es

.

two pounds of po m atu m to ev ery quar t of spi r it T he .

sam e can b e don e with the oil of j as m in e If the .

po m ad e is us e d , it m ust b e cut u p fi n e p r eviously to

1 08 TE E ART or PE RE U M E RY .

I M ITA TI ONE X T RA C T o r JO N QU IL .

S pi r ituous ext r act o f jas m in e po m ad e ,

tubereuse ,

fl eu r d o r ange ’
,

E xtr act o f vanilla ,

TR U E E X T RAC T or JO NQ UI L .

J onquil po m ad e ,

S pi r it (60 ov er p r oof) ,

L et it sta nd o n e m onth .

L A U RE L —B y .distillation fr o m th e l eav es of th e
P r un us L aur ocer asus o r C h er ry lau r el an oil and
, ,

p e r fum ed wat er ar e procurabl e of a v ery b eautiful ,

an d fragrant cha r act er C o m m ercially how ev e r it

.
, ,

is dis r egar d ed ; as fr o m th e si m ilarity of odo r to the

oil distill ed fr o m th e bitt er al m ond it is rarely , if ,

e v e r us ed by th e p e rfu m e r , th e latter b eing m o r e

,

econo m ical .

L A V E ND E R .

“ In eac h br ight d r op th er e is a spell .

’
Tis fr om th e soil we lov e so w ell ,

Fr om E nglish gar dens won .

"

The cli m ate of England app ears to b e b ette r

adapte d fo r th e p erfect d ev elop m ent of this fi n e old
favo r ite p erfum e than any oth e r on th e glob e The .

”
anci ents says Bu r n ett, em ploy ed the flow e rs and
,

th e l eav es to ar o m ati z e th eir baths and to give a ,

sw eet sc ent to water i n which th ey wash ed ; h e nc e

th e ge n er ic na m e of th e plant L avand ula , .

L av end er is g r own to an en orm ous exte nt at M it

cham i n S u rr ey , and at H itchin in H e rts by M r
, , , .

P e rks which ar e th e pl ac es of its p r oduction in a

,

co m m e rcial point of vi ew V ery larg e quanti ti es .

 L AvE N D E R . 1 09

ar e also grown i n F rance Wh at is call ed th e A l

.

pin e lave nd er o f F r anc e is r em ar kably good ; but th e

fi n e odo r of th e B r itish p r oduc e r eali z e s in th e m ar
k et four ti m es th e p r ic e o f that of contin e ntal g r owth .

Bu r n ett says that th e oil of L avand ula Sp ica is m or e

pl easant than that d eriv ed fro m th e oth er sp eci es ;
but this statem e nt m ust not m isl ead th e pu r chas e r to
buy th e Fre nch spike lave nd er as it is not wo r th a ,

t enth of that d eriv ed fr o m th e L avandula ver a H alf .

a hund r edw eight o f good lav end e r flow er s yi elds by ,

distillation , fr o m fourte en to sixt ee n ounc es of ess en

tial oil .

L avandula ver a is a nativ e of P e rsia th e C anari es , ,

Bar bary and th e south of Eu rop e fr o m th e last of

, ,

which it is said to have b e e n fi r st b r ought to Eng

land wh e re fi ndin g a congenial soil and b eing care
, , ,

fully c ul ti v ated i t yi elds an ess e ntial oil o r otto ver y

,
.

, ,

far sup e r ior to that produc ed fro m it in its o r iginal

plac es of growth T h e p ec uliar qual iti es of m ost
.

plants ar e susceptibl e of chan ge and i n m any i n ,

stanc es of i m p r ov em ent by cul tivation but non e

, , ,

p er haps m ore so tha n this I t is not ev er in al l

,
.

parts o f this country that it can b e gro w n wi th suc

c ess and for m any y ear s it was suppose d that it
,

would only co m e to p e rfection in th e n eighbor hood

of Mi tc h am i n Surrey ; b ut it has within the last
, ,

hal f ce ntury b ee n found that a soil and cli m ate stil l

,

m o r e suite d to i ts growth e xists n ea r H i tchin in ,

H e rtfo r dshi r e Th er e th e fin est otto is n o w pro

.

d u c ed fr o m its flow er s by M r S P e rks fr o m who m

, . .
,

w e h av e r ec e iv e d th e fol l owing account of th e m od e

of i ts cultivation and treatm e nt
Th e gr ound fo r a plantation of lav ender should not be su r r ounded
10
110 TE E AR T or P E RF U M E R Y .

by high h edges o r in th e i m m ediate n eighbo r hood o f any tr ees

, ,

which tend to r etain too m uch m oistu r e upon th e plan ts and th us ,

cause th e sp r ing fr ost to cut o ff th e flower s but should be as m uc h ,

expose d to th e sun as possibl e .

In Octo ber a l ar ge num ber of slips fr o m th e o l d plants ar e placed

,

i n p r evi ously p r epared beds wh er e th ey ar e allow ed to rem ain fo r

,

tw elv e m onths du r ing which ti m e th ey ar e car efully clipped

, .

Wh en a y ear o ld th ey ar e plante d out ( in fi n e w eath er ) in r ows

,

fou r feet apa r t with a space of th r ee feet fr om plant to plant but

, ,

are not allowed to flow er th e clipping be ing still continu ed in

, ,

or der to st rength en th em which obj ect is fu r th er pr om oted by a

,

r egular supply of sho r t m anu re to th e r oots If this can not be pro .

cu r ed i a suffici ent quantity its pl ace m ay be suppli ed by superph os

,

phate o f lim e which gr eatly i m p r ov es th e appea r ance o f th e plant

, ,

and cause s it also to p r oduce finer flow ers .

T h e usual m od e of p r oc ur ing th e otto is to put th e flow er s and

stalks into a sti ll with sufli ci en t water and thus d r a w o ff th e o il ;
,

but I hav e found by exper i m ent that v ery littl e is p r oduced fr om

th e stalks and that littl e o f infer io r quality
, M y p r ese nt p r ac tice .

is th er efore to em ploy only th e flow ers which ar e st r ipped fr om th e

,

stalks p r e vi ously to th e distil l ation ; and thoug h this is n ecessar ily

a m or e e xpe ns ive way of p r oceeding th e sup er io r qu al ity of th e
,

p r oduct e nhances its value in an equal d egr ee whilst th e loss i n ,

quantity is v er y s m all Th e ar om a o f th e otto p r oduc ed by this

.

p r ocess is so far sup er ior to that of any oth er as to be at onc e p er ,

cep ti bl e to e v er y o n e accustom ed to th e u se o f an infe ri o r k i n d and ,

e v e n to thos e who m ay be said to hav e an e nti r ely un educate d

se nse of s m elling It i s in fa t a pu r e otto and wh en suitably

.
,
c
, ,

com bin ed with oth er app r op r iate m ater ials p r oduces Lav ender ,
‘f

Water o f th e m ost exqui site fr agr ance that h as hith er to bee n

m ad e.

Th e nu m b e r of lave nd e r plants upon an ac r e of

ground would b e about 3 547 that is if planted o n e , ,

yar d apar t an d fou r feet b etw een th e rows A n ac r e .

would yi eld about six to s ev en qu arts of oil but it ,

dep ends u pon th e ag e of th e plants ; th e latt er , wh en

about four year s old p r oduce m ost ,
.

A ll th e infe rio r d esc r iptions of oil of lav end er ar e

us ed fo r p er fu m ing soaps and g r eas es ; but th e b est ,
112 TE E A RT or P E B FU M E B Y .

th e following form by m ixtu r e will prod uc e a

, ,
fi rst
rate articl e ,
and n ear ly as white as th e abov e
E S SE N CE or L A V EN D E R .

O tto of lav end er , 6 o z.

Rec ti fl ed Spi r it , 1 gallon .

The p erfu m er s r etail pric e fo r such qual ity is 1 08

’
.

p er i m p e rial pint of 2 0 o z .

M any p er fu m er s and druggists , in m aking lav en

d er wat er o r ess enc e u se a s m all po r tion of b er ga ,

m o t ,
with e u id ea of i m p r oving its quality — a v ery ,

e rr on eous opinion m ore ov e r , such lav end e r quickly

discolo r s .

L AV E N DE R W A T ER .

Tak e
E nglish oil o f lav ender ,

Spi ri t ,
Ros e -
water ,

F ilter and it is r eady f r sal e

,
o .

C O MM O N L A V E ND ER WA T ER .

S am e fo r m as th e abo v e su bstituting French lav ender

, for the
B r it i sh .

D ET E C TI ON or S P IK E O IL AN D T U RP E NT I NE IN

O TT O OF L A V EN D E R .

BY DB . J . GAST RL L .

Th er e ar e two ki nds of lav en d e r oil know n in c o m

m erc e o n e , which is v ery d ea r , and is obtain ed fro m

th e flow er s of th e L avan dula vera th e oth e r is m u ch

ch eap er, an d is prepar ed fr o m th e flow ers of the
L avan dula Sp ica T he l att er is ge n er ally t er m ed oil
.

of spike In th e south of F r anc e, wh eth er th e oil b e

.

distill ed fro m th e flow e rs of th e L a van d ula vera or

L avandula Sp ica, it is na m ed oil of lav end er .
 L E M ON . 113

By th e distillation of th e whol e plant or only th e ,

stalk and th e l eaves a s m al l quantity o f oil is obtain ed

, ,

which is rich i n cam pho r and is th en call ed oil of ,

spik e Pur e oil of lav en d er should hav e a sp ecific

.

g r avity fr o m 8 76 to 8 8 0 and b e co m pl etely solubl e

. .
,

i n fi v e parts of alcoho l of a sp ecific g r avity of 8 94 . .

A g r eat er sp ecific g r avity shows that it is m i x e d with

o il of spik e ; and a l ess solubility that it con tains oil ,

of tu r p e ntin e .

R ecip es for Ro n d ol eti a L av end er Bo uqu et and oth er

, ,

lav end e r co m pounds will b e give n wh e n w e co m e to

,

sp eak of co m pound p e rfu m es which w ill b e res e r ve d ,

u ntil w e hav e finish ed explai n ing th e m ethod of

m aki n g th e si m pl e e ss e nc e s .

L E M ON — This fi n e p erfu m e is abstrac ted fro m th e

.

C itr us L i m onum , by expression and also by distillation ,

fr o m the rin d of th e fr uit That which is procu r e d .

by e xpression has a m uch fin er odo r and a m o r e i n

,

tens e l em ony s m el l than th e distill ed product A s a .

distinction th e exp ress ed l e m on is call ed C IT RON ZE ST ,

and th e distill e d quality is known as Ess L em o n . .

T h e otto of l em on s i n th e m a r ket is principally fro m

M essina wh er e th er e ar e hu n dreds of ac res of l em o n
,
”
g roves . O tto of l em ons lik e all th e ottos of the ,

C itr us fam ily is rapi dly p r o n e to oxidation wh en in

,

contact with ai r and e xposu r e to light ; a high tem

p e r atur e is also d e t r i m e ntal and as such is th e cas e , ,

it should b e p r es erved in a cool c ellar Most of th e .

sam pl es fr om the gas h e ate d sh elv e s of th e d r uggi sts

-
’

shops ar e as m uch like e ss e nc e of tu r p e ntin e to th e ,

s m ell as that of l em ons ; rancid oil o f l em o ns m ay

, ,

in a g r eat m easu r e b e pu rifie d by agitation with w ar m

,

*
10
1 14 TE E ART or P E R E U M E R Y.

water and fin al d ecantation T he following rem arks .

,

m ad e by M r C obb o f Y arm outh ar e u s e ful

.
, ,

B ei n g constantly annoy ed by th e d eposit and alter ation in m y

esse nce o f l em ons I hav e t r i ed va r ious m ethods o f r em edying th e
,

inconveni ence .

I fi rst tr i ed r edistilling it but besid es the loss consequ ent on dis

,

tilling sm all quantiti es the flavor is th er eby i m pai r ed A s the oil

, .

beca m e b r igh ter wh e n h eated I anticipated that all its p r ecipitabl e

,

m att er would be th r own down at a low tem pe r atu r e and I appli e d ,

a fr ee z ing m ixtu r e k eeping the o i l at z er o fo r so m e hou r s N o

, .

such chan ge how ev er took place

, , .

Th e plan which 1 ulti m ately d ec ided upon as the best which I

had arr iv ed at was to shak e up th e oil with a littl e hot water and
, ,

to l eav e th e water i n the bottl e a m ucilagino us p r epar ation fo r m s

o n th e to p of the wa te r and acqui res a c er tain te nacity so that the
, ,

oil m ay be pou red o ff to n ar ly the last wi thout distu r bing th e d e

e
,

posit P er haps cold water would answ er equally w ell were it ca re

.
,

fully agi tated with th e oil and allow ed so m e ti m e to settl e A con .

sider ation o f i ts or igin an d constitution indeed str ength ens th i s , ,

Opin ion ; fo r although l em on otto is obtain ed both by distillation

and expr ession that which is usually found i n com m er c e is p r epar e d
,

by r em oving th e flav ed o of l em ons with a m ap and after war ds ,

e xp ressing it in a hai r sack allowing th e filt r ate to stand that it , ,

m ay d eposit so m e o f i ts i m pur iti es d ecanting and filte r ing Thus , .

obtain ed it still contains a c ertain a m ou nt o f m ueil ag i n ous m atter

, ,

which und er goes spontan eous d ecom position and thus (acting i n , ,

sho r t as a fer m ent) accel er ates a si m ila r change i n th e o i l itse lf

,
.

If this V i ew o f its d eco m position be a co r r ect o n e we evidently i n , ,

r em oving th is m att er by m eans o f th e water g et r id of a gr eat ,

sou r ce of alter ation and attain th e sam e r esult as w e should by dis

,

ti l l ati o n without its wast e o r d et er io r ation in flavo r

, .

I am how ev er awar e that so m e consider th e deposit to be m odi

, ,

fi ed r esin S om e cu ri ous e xpe r i m e nts of Saussu r e hav e shown that

.

volatil e oils absor b oxygen i m m ediately th ey hav e been d r a wn fro m

th e plant and ar e pa r tially conv er ted into a r esi n which r em ain s
, ,

dissolv ed in th e r em aind er o f th e ess ence .

H e r em a r k ed that this p r opert y of a bso r bing oxyg en g r adually

incr eas es until a m axi m um is attain ed and again di m in i sh es a ft er ,

a c er tai n lapse o f ti m e In th e oil of l av end er this m axi m u m r e

.

m ain ed only se v e n da y s du r i n g each o f which it a bso r bed se v e n

,
116 TE E A RT or P E R E U M E R V.

which is easily procur ed fro m the plant by distillation .

L em o n g rass otto or as it is so m eti m es call ed oil of

, , ,

v er bena on account of i ts si m ilarity of odor to that

,

favorite plant, is i m porte d into thi s country i n old

English po r te r an d stout bottl es It is v ery po w e rful .
,

w ell adapted fo r p erfu m ing soaps and g r e as es but its ,

principal c onsu m ption i s i n th e m an ufacture of arti

fi ci al ess e nc e of v er b e na F r o m i ts co m par atively
.

l bw p r ic e great stre ngth an d fi n e p erfu m e (wh e n di

, ,

luted ) the l em on gr ass otto m ay b e m uch m o re us ed

,

than at p r es ent with consid e r abl e advantag e to the

r etail shopkeep er .

T h e ann u al p r oduction of l em on gr ass otto in C ey

lon is n early 1 5 00 lbs and it is valu ed t he r e at l s 4d
.
, . .

p e r ounc e Sp e ci m
. e ns of th e plant which produc es

it ar e to b e s een at the Royal G ard ens Kew ,

.

L E M O N S C E NT E D G U M T RE E E ucalyp tus Citr iodo m

-

, .

Th e l ea ves of this sp eci es o f E ucalyp tus on b eing ,

b r uis ed yi eld a delightful citr on like odo r co m par ed

,
-

by so m e to the s m el l o f bal m , and by oth e r s to that

of C itr on e lla and w he n the l eaves ar e d r i ed an d
,

plac ed a m ong cloth es or pap er s th ey i m part an agree

abl e sc ent to th em C onsid er ing that it m ight prov e
.

us eful in an econo m ical point of Vi e w , Dr B en n ett .

,
”
autho r of G ath erings of a N atu r alist in A ustralia ,

pr ocu r ed a quantity of the l eaves which w ere distill ed ,

by M r Nori e a practical ch em ist in Sydn ey , and it

.
,

was fo und that th ree po unds twelv e ounc es of l eaves

yi eld ed by distillation six d rach m s and a half of a pu re
, ,

colo rl ess otto ; a sp ecim e n of which D r B e nn ett has .

plac ed in th e M us e u m at Kew .

L ILA C — T h e fragranc e of th e flow ers of this orna

.

m en tal shrub is w ell known T h e ess e nc e of lilac is

.
 L I LA C— LILY . 117

obtain ed ith er by th e proc ess of m ac eration or en

e ,

fl eu r age with gr eas e , an d after war ds t r eating th e p o

m atu m thus fo r m ed wi th r ectifi ed spi r it , in th e sam e
m an n e r as pr e vi ously d escrib ed for cassi e ; th e odo r

so m uch r es em bl e s tub er eus e as to b e fr equ ently ,

us ed to adult er ate th e latte r th e d em and for tub er eu s e

,

b eing at all ti m es greater than th e supply A b eau .

tiful
I M ITA TI O N or E S S E N CE or W H ITE L I LAC

m ay be co m pound ed thus
S pi r ituous xtr ac t fr om tu b er eus e pom ade
e ,

o f o r ange flow er po m ad e ,

O tto o f al m onds ,

E xt r act of civ et ,

Th e civ et is only u s e d to giv e p erm an enc e to th e

p e rfu m e of th e handk er ch i ef .

L ILY — T h e m anufacturing p e rfu m e r r ej ects th e

.

advic e of th e inspi r ed write r, to consid er th e lili e s

”
of th e fi eld Rich as th ey ar e in odor th ey ar e not
.
,

cultivated for th eir p er fu m e If lili es ar e th r own .

i nto oil of sw eet al m onds or olive oil th ey i m part to

, ,

it th ei r sw eet s m ell ; but to obtain anything lik e

fr agranc e th e infusion m ust b e r ep eate d a do z e n ti m e s
,

with th e sam e oil using fresh flow er s for each infusion

, ,

after stan ding a day o r so T he oil b eing shak e n .

with an equal quantity of spirit for a w eek gives up ,

its odor to th e alcohol an d th u s extract o f lili es m ay

,

b e m ad e But how it is m ad e is thus :

.
118 TE E ART or P E R E U M E R Y.

I M IT A TI ON L IL Y VA LL E Y.

E xtr ac t of tuber eus e ,

jas m ine ,

fleu r d o r ange ’
,

vanilla ,

cassie ,

r ose ,

O tto of al m onds ,

Keep this ixture tog eth er for a m onth , and th e n

m

bottl e it for sal e It is a p er fu m e that is v ery m uch

.

ad m i r ed .

M A C E — This substanc e is procu re d fro m th e nut

m eg tre e : thus
-
th e nut m egs ar e inclos ed i n four
,

d iffe r e nt cove rs ; th e first is a thick husk so m ething ,

like that of o u r waln uts but lar ger ; und e r this li e s a ,

thin reddish coat which is th e m ac e of co m m e rce ;

,

th e m ac e w r aps up the sh ell an d op ens lik e a n etw o r k ,

as th e fruit o r r ath er s eed g r ows ; the sh ell is har d

,

an d thin and d esti tute of odo r ; unde r this is a g r eenis h

fi l m of no u se i n trad e but which is in t r uth the
, , , ,

shi r t of th e s e ed o r nutm eg T h e odor of m ac e only .

r e s e m bl e s that of nut m eg i n b e ing spicy ; it canno t ,

howev e r b e m istak en fo r th e s m ell of nutm eg T he

, .

otto of m ac e like that of n utm eg is r eadily procure d

, ,

by distillation The nutm eg tr ee, like that of o r ange

.
-

giv es distinct fragran c es in di ffer ent parts of it Th us .

w e hav e otto of m ac e and otto of nutm eg produc ed

by th e sam e plant within a qua rte r of an inc h of each
oth e r What wond er ful valves and taps to k eep th em
.

fro m m ixing ! G round m ac e is us ed in th e m an u

factu r e of so m e of thos e sc ente d powd er s call ed
S ach ets . T he strong s m elling ess e ntial o i l is us eful
-

fo r sc e nting soap .
1 20 m an h a s: or r nn r um n ar .

MI G NONET T E oth er wis e B EZE DA — But for th e ex

, .

q u i si te odo r of this littl e flow e r it would scar c el y b e

,

known oth erwis e th an as a w eed Sw eet as it is in .

its natu r a l state, and p r olific in odo r w e ar e not abl e ,

to m aintai n its char acter istic sm ell as an ess e nc e .

L ik e m any oth e rs during s eparation fro m the plant

, ,

th e frag r anc e is m or e or l ess m od ifi ed ; though not

p er fect , it stil l r e m inds th e s ens e of th e odo r of the
flow e r s To give it that sw eetn ess which it app ear s
.

to want a c er tain quantity of viol et is add ed to b ring

,

it up to th e m a r k et odor .

A s th is plant is so v ery p r olific in odor w e think ,

so m ething m ight be don e with it i n England esp e ,

c i all as it flourish s as w ll in this country as in

y e e

F r anc e W e d esi r e to see F lower Far m s and o r gan

.

i zed P e rfum ato r i e s e stablish e d i n th e B ritish Isl es ,

fo r th e ext r action of ess enc es an d th e m an u factu re of

po m ad e an d oils of s uc h flow e r s as ar e indige nous
, ,

o r that th ri v e in th e op en fi el ds of ou r countr y Be .

sid es op ening u p a n ew fi eld of e nte rp r is e and good

i nv est m ent fo r capital it would giv e h ealthy em ploy
,

m en t to m any wo m en and child r e n O p e n ai r em .

ploy m ent for the young is of no littl e consid er ation

to m aintain th e stam ina of th e futu r e gen eration ; for
it cannot b e d eni e d that our facto ry sys tem and con
fin ed citi es ar e p r ejudicial to th e physical conditio n
of th e hu m an fam ily .

To r eturn fro m o ur dig r e ssion Th e ess enc e of .

m ig n on ett e or as i t is m or e ofte n sold und e r th e

, ,

na m e of Extrait d e B ez eda is p r epared by infus in g

,

th e r ezéd a po m ad e in r ectifi ed spi rit in th e p r opo r

'
,

tio n of o n e pound o f pom ad e to o n e pin t of spi rit ,

allowing th em to digest tog eth er for a fortnight,

 MIBIBANE — M IN T — M U S K -
SEE D . 1 21

wh en the ess e nc e is filter ed off th e po m ad e O n e .

ounc e of ext r act of tolu is add ed to ev ery pint This .

is don e to giv e p er m an enc e to th e odo r u po n th e

handker chi ef and do es not in any way alter its s m ell
,
.

M M ar ch of Nic e is the p r incipal m ak er of B ez eda

.
, ,

pom ad e to u se his own wo r ds h e has a sp écia lzté fo r

'

its fabrication It is m ad e by th e en fl eu r age pr oc ess

. .

M IRIB A N E — T h e F r e nch nam e for artificial ess e nc e

.

of al m ond (See A L M ON D )
. .

M I NT — A ll th e M en thidaz yi eld fr agrant ottos by

.

distillation T h e otto of the sp ear m int ( M vir zd zis) is

'

-
. .

exc ee dingly pow e rful and v ery val u abl e fo r p er fu m i n g

,

soap in conj unctio n with oth er pe r fu m es P e rfu m e rs

, .

u se th e ottos of th e m int in th e m an u factu r e of m o u th

wash es and d ental liquids Th e l e ading ing r edi e n t .

i n th e c el eb rate d eau botot is oil of p e pp er m int in

alcohol M int ottos hav e m o r e pow er than any oth er
.

a r o m atic to ov erco m e th e s m ell of tobacco M outh .

washes , it m ust b e r em em b er ed ar e as m uch us e d ,

fo r r insing the m o n th afte r s m oking as fo r a d enti

fri c e .

—
M U S K S E ED — This odorous substanc e known in
.
,

th e p e rfu m e ry tr ad e as Grains d A m brette is p r oduc e d

’
,

by th e plant H ibiscus A belm oschus Kabb eLM zsk is

’

-
.

th e A rabic n a m e of which says Bu r n e tt A b el m o s

, , ,

ch us is a vil e corr uption S e ver al oth er alli ed sp ec i es

.

ar e r em ar ka bl e fo r a si m ilar odor o f which o n e S U M , ,

B B B h as b ee n r e c ently brought into notic e by M r

,
.

Joh n S avo ry V ery littl e is known in England of

.

C hin es e toil et p r actic es ; but w e ar e told on good ,

authority that fr o m o n e of th es e sp e ci es th e H ibiscus

, ,
“
Rosa si nensis th e C hin e s e m ak e a black dy e for th e i r
,
”
hair an d ey eb r o w s , and a bl acki ng for th eir sho es l
11
1 22 r un an or r n n r u u s ar .

M usk s eed , wh e n gr o un d c ertai n ly rem inds o ur s m ell !

‘
-

ing s e nse of the odo r of m usk but it is poo r stufl at

‘

b est : how ever for m aking ch eap sach et powd er it

, ,

m a
y b e us e d for va r i e ty s sak e Wh e n hair powd e r ’
.
-

was in fashion p erfum er s us e d to sc e nt the starch of

,

which the powd er was m ad e by m ixing th e ground ,

am b r ette with th e fe cula ; afte r lying togeth er fo r a

few hours th e starch was th e n sifte d away , and pack e d
for sal e .

LIYRr L E .

T he lau rel and the m y r tl e swee ts agr ee ,

A n d both i n nos egays shall be bound fo r th ee .

H O RA C E .

A v e ry fragrant otto p rocured by distilling m ay be

th e l eav es of th e com m on m yrtl e ; o n e hund r ed w eight
wil l yi eld about fi v e ounc es of th e v olatil e oil The .

d em and fo r ess e nce of m yrtl e b eing v ery li m ited th e ,

odo r as found in the p e rfu m er s shops is v e ry ra r ely ’

a g en uin e a rticl e but is i m itat ed thus ,

Im m r ro n E sss n os or M Y RTL E .

E xt rac t of vanilla ,

r oses ,

fl eu r d o r ange ’
,

tuber euse ,

jas m in e ,

M ix ,
allow to stan d for a fortnight : it is th e n
an d
fi t fo r bottling an d is a p erfu m e that give s a g r eat
,

d eal of satisfaction .

M yr tl e fl o w er wate r is sold in Franc e und e r th e

-

na m e of c an d ang e and m ay b e p repar e d lik e r os e ,

’
,

e ld e r o r oth e r flow e r water s

,
.

M YRR H — Thi 8 odo r ous gu m o r r esi n has b ee n

.

known fro m ti m e i m m em orial , as is evid ent fr om i ts

1 24 ran A RT or r s ar u m s av .

consid erabl e quantiti es of th e H ofal z, which is sold at

’

w h igh pric e .

T h e nativ es ad m iniste r it to th ei r ho rs es in cases ,

o f fatigu e and exhaustion

*
.

G um m yrrh is us ed ex tensiv ely by p erfu m er s in ,

th e m anufacture of d e nti fric es , in pastils , and fu m i

gating spi r its .

N an crssu s — This plant is culti vated to a sm all ex

.

te nt at Nic e, and its odor is pro cure d by en fleu r age

and m ac er ation: Th e sm ell of it to m an y is exc eed
i n g]y grate ful but in clos e apartm ents th e exhalation s
,

of th e plant ar e said to b e noxious ; ind ee d its n ar ,

cotic od o r was kno wn to the anci ents , and h enc e its

n am e is said to b e d e riv ed fr o m stupor Th e .

following is a good fo r m i m itating th e odo r of nar ,

cissus wh en th e tru e extr act cannot b e obtain ed

E x ra ao r
' '
or N a n c rssu s .

E xt r act of tuber ose ,

8 pin ts .

jonquil ,
2 pints .

stor ax , pint .

tolu , pint .

NE ROLI or O RA NG E F L OW E R — TW O d i stinct odors

,
-
.

ar e p r ocurabl e fr o m th e o r ange blosso m , varyi n g ac -

co r di n g to th e m ethods adopt ed for procu ring th em .

T his di fferenc e of p e rfu m e fro m th e sam e flow er is a

gr eat advantag e to th e p e rfu m e ry facto r , an d it is a
curious fact worthy of inquiry by th e ch em ical phi
l osoph er . This duality of fragranc e i s not p e culiar
to th e oran ge flo w er , b ut appli es to m any oth er s es
-

ec i all r os e—p r obably to all flow e rs

p y .

Wh en o r ange flo w er s ar e tr eat ed by the m ac er ation

-

T r ans L inn
. . Soc .
 OR A N G E FL O W E R
-
. 1 25

r es —
p oc s , that is , by infusion i n a fatty body ,— w e
procu r e orange flo w er po m atu m its stren gth an d
-

quality b eing regulate d by th e nu m b er of infusions

of the flow er m ad e in th e sam e gr eas e T h e valu e .

of orange fl o w ers is fr o m 750 to l f 250 p e r kilo

-
. . .

g r am m e and it requi r es eight kilog r am m es of blos

,

so m s to e n flo we r o n e kilog r a m m e of g r ease divid e d ,

ov e r thirty two infusions— that is a quarte r kilo

-

gram m e o f flow e rs to ev ery kilogram m e of fat fo r

e ach m ac eration .

By digesting this o rang e fl o w er po m atu m i n r ecti

-

fi ed spirits i n the p r opo r tions of fr o m six pounds to

,

Or ang e .

eight pounds of po m ad e to a gallon of spi ri t for about ,

a m onth at a su m m e r h eat w e obtain th e Ext rait d e

,

Fl e u r d O r an ge or ext r act of o r ange fl o we rs a hand

’
,
-

k er chi e f per fu m e surpass ed by non e In this state .

its odor re sem bl es the original so m uch , that with

11 “
1 26 m s A RT or p s a r u m s n v.

clos ed ey es th e b est j udge co uld n o t distinguish the

sc ent of th e extr act fr om that of th e flow er T h e pe .

c u l i ar flow e ry odor of this ext r act r end e r s it val uabl e

to th e p er fu m er s not only to s e ll in a pu re sta te but

, ,

slightly m odifi e d with oth e r ex tr aits pass e s for swee t ,

” ”
p e a , m agnolia &c which it slightly
,
r es em bl
. e,
s i n

Now , wh en o r ange fl o w e rs distill ed with water

-
ar e ,

w e p roc u r e th e otto of th e blosso m , which is known

co m m e rcial ly as oil o f n e roli The n eroli p r ocu red .

from th e flow ers of th e Citr us A ur an tium is consid ered

to b e th e fin est quality and is call ed n eroli p e tal s ,
.

”
Th e n e xt quality n er oli bigarad e is d e riv e d fro m
, ,

th e blosso m s of the C itr us B igar ad ia o r S evill e o rang e , .

A noth e r quality which is consid ered infe rio r to the

,
“ ”
p rec eding is th e n eroli p etit gr ain , obtain e d by
,

d istilling th e l eav es and th e young un r ip e fr uit of th e

diffe r e nt sp eci es of th e citru s If a l eaf of th e o r ang e .

t ree b e h eld up b etwee n th e obs e r ve r and th e sun h e ,

will p er c eiv e s m al l glo bular sp ecks in the l eaf which ,

a r e in t r uth th e sacs of otto ; fro m thi s fact th e t er m

p etit grain s m all g rains , is d eriv ed
, .

“ ” ”
The p e tal s and bigar ad e n er oli are us e d to
an e no r m ous e xt ent in th e m anu factu r e of H ungary

wate r an d eau d e C ologn e and oth er han d ker chi e f

“ ”
p erfu m es Th e p etit g r ai n is m ainly consu m ed
.

for sc enting soap To form the .

E SPRIT N s aom .

N er o l ip etal s ,

Rec ti fi ed spi r it ,

Although v e ry agr eeabl e, and xtensiv ely us ed in

e

th e m anu factu r e of bouqu ets , it has no r e lation to

1 28 THE ART or r s ar u n s n v .

m a r k ets of Britai n th e p r oducts of this plant fro m

ou r antipod ean colony .

A s th e re ar e full a do z en or m o r e w ell known v a -

r i eti es of th e orang e th e r e m ay b e procure d a co r r e

,

sp o n di n g quantity of vari e ti e s of otto fr o m th em .

”
The origin o f th e term n er oli appli ed to the
otto of o r ange blosso m is not v e ry d efinit e It m ay
-
.

hav e b een n am ed a fter th e c el eb r ated Rom an E m

N r o who was so fond of sc e nts that h e caus ed
p er o r e ,

th e r oof of his dining halls to r ep r e s e n t th e fi r m a

m e nt and to show e r down night and day all so r ts of
, , ,
“
p er fu m es and sw eet wate r s ; or it m ay be that n e
”
roli was fi rst p rocu r ed by th e S abin es who to dis , ,

ti n gui sh it fr o m oth er p er fu m e s of th e p e r iod na m e d ,

“ ” “
it n eroli fro m
,
n er o which signifi es st rong
, .

T h e Sabin es it should b e r em em b er ed inhabit a

, ,

p r ovin c e of Italy S abina , wh ere th e o r ang e t r ee is

,

v e ry abundant (Se e O RAN G E p

.
,
.

N o u m ea —Few fr ag r ant substanc es ar e of m o re

“
co m m er cial i m po r tanc e than th e nutm eg Its his .

” “
to ry , says Bu r n ett affo rd s an instanc e of th e ex
,

tr av agan c e to which th e spirit of m onopoly will u r g e

and has car ri ed not only p r ivate individuals but ev e n
”
states .

T he principal nutm eg ga r d ens of th e world ar e th e

-

Banda Islands coloni z ed by th e Dutch about two

,

hu ndred and fift y y ea r s ago S oon aft er th e subju .

ati o n of th e o r iginal inhabitants th ey e nd e avo r e d

g ,

to s ecure to th em s elv e s th e enti r e t rad e in this odor

ous substanc e Fo r this pu r pos e th ey encouraged
.

th e cultivation of th e n ut m eg t re e in only a few of -

th e islands , and b eing ov er anxious fo r th e sak e of -

th e m onopoly , to hav e th em th e re exclusively und er

 N UTMEG . 1 29

th eir o w n co m m and th ey d estroy ed th e trees in th e

,

n eighboring isl es .

It will b e r em em b er ed that th ey pursu ed th e sam e

policy with r e sp e ct to th e clov e plant M o r e than .

once th ey hav e how ev er su ffe r ed d ear ly for th eir

, ,

insati abl e avaric e ; for th e d readful hurrican es and

earthquak es which sw ept ha r m l essly ov e r th e oth e r
, .

i slands n early annihilated th e n utm eg trees of Banda

,
-

in 1 778 Whil e th e D utch h eld th e Spic e Islands

.
,

th e quantity of nutm egs and m ac e exporte d fr o m

th eir n utm eg gr ounds circu m scrib ed as th ey w er e
-

, ,

was t r uly eno r m ous ; th e quan ti ty sold i n E u rop e

has b ee n esti m ated at pounds and i n th e ,

East Indi es at pounds ; of m ac e th e av e rage ,

h as b e e n pounds sold in Eu r op e and ,

in India .

Wh en th e Spic e Isl ands w ere tak e n by th e British

i n 1 796 th e i m portation by th e East India C o m pany
,

into England alon e in two y ears following th e cap

,

tu r e w er e of n utm egs ,
, ,
pounds , an d of m ac e
pounds It is thus e vid en t that B r itannia
.

”
do es not turn up h e r nos e at th e odo r of n ut m eg
and m ac e !
W h en th e c r ops of spic e hav e b ee n sup er abundant ,

and th e p r ic e in cons equ enc e lik ely to b e r educ ed ,

, ,

th e sam e igno r ant spirit b efore m ention ed h as ao

tu ate d th e Dutch to d est r oy i m m ens e quanti ti es of
th e fr uit rath er than suffe r the m a r k e t p r ic e to b e
low er ed Wh e n S i r W illiam T em pl e was at Am ste r
.

d am a m er ch ant who h ad r eturn ed fr o m Banda as

,
“
sur ed hi m that at o n e ti m e h e saw th r ee pi l es of
n utm egs burnt each of which was m or e than a church
,

of o r dinary di m ensions could hold ”

M r W il c oc ks, . .
1 30 THE ART or P E RF U M E RY .

th e translator of S tavarin us s Travels r elates that h e

’
,

b eh eld suc h a co n flagrati o n of cloves nutm egs and , ,

cinnam on , u pon th e island of N e wland n ear M iddl e ,

bu r gh in Z ealand as p e rfu m ed th e ai r with th ei r

, ,

p eculia r fr ag r anc e fo r m any m il es r ou nd Balfou r .

says that i n 1 8 1 4 wh en th e M olu c cas w ere i n the

, ,

possession of the English , th e n u m b e r of nut m eg

tr ee s planted out was estim ated at of which
”
w er e in h eari n g T h e p r oduc e of nut m egs
.

in th e M oluc c as has b een r eckon ed at fr o m

to pounds p er annu m of which half go es to ,

Eu r op e and about o n e fourth that quantity of m ac e

,
-
.

Th e annual consu m ption of nut m egs in Britain is

said to b e pounds Th e nutm eg tr ee, like.
-

m any oth e rs yi elds two distinct odorous substanc es

, ,

that is , otto of m ac e (see MAC E , page an d otto

of n ut m eg T he otto of n utm eg of which w e have
.
,

h ere to sp eak is a b eautiful white an d transpar ent

,

fluid , having an intens e fragr anc e of th e nut fr o m ,

which it is e asily p r ocu r ed by distillation It enter s .

into th e co m position of nu m erous p er fu m ery prepara

tions of which th e Frangi pani s e ri es ar e exa m pl es
, .

A s it is m ore pow er fu l than clov es it m ust be us ed ,

sparingly ; but wh en us ed with j u dg m ent co m bin es

, ,

happily with lavend e r santal b e rgam ot and oth ers

, , ,
.

By exp r ession th e n ut m eg wil l also yi eld an unc

,

tu o us fat oil of an ag r e eabl e odor ; this co m bin ed with

an alkali produc es a pl easa nt soap Fo r ty y ears ago .

such soap was co m m only sold by p e rfu m e r s und e r

th e nam e of Bandana or Banda soap but w h ich is ,

n o w quite out of dat e .

The pl e asant odo r o f th e nutm eg is fa m ilia r to all .

T he ground n uts ar e u s ed advan tag eously in th e c o m

1 32 T HE A RT or P E B FU M E R Y .

chants on th e coast fo r 1 } dol l ar per fr asi l s o f 20 l bs Th e luban .

bed o w i of th e best quality is sold fo r 1 dollar pe r fr asil s O f both .

kinds th e pal est colo r is pr efer r ed T h e t r ees va r y gr e atly i n

.

h eight but ar e n ev er abov e twenty feet with a stem of nin e inch es

, ,

i n dia m eter Th ei r fo rm is v ery gr ace ful and wh e n spr inging

.
,

fr o m a m ass of m ar bl e o n th e br i nk of a p reci pice th ei r ap pear an ce ,

is espec i ally pictur esqu e .

A lthough the W u r su n gil i r ange and oth er m ounta i nous t r acts

afl o r d an i n exhausti b l e supply of frankinc ens e it is a m istak e to
'

suppos e that el evated distr icts p r oduc e th e best gu m .

L i euten ant C r uttenden i n his jou r n ey am ong th e E d oo r tr i bes

, ,

states that the gu m of th e lar ge l eaf kind of fr ankince ns e t r ee is

-

n o t m uch p r i z ed .

O libanu m is partially sol ubl e i n alcohol , and like ,

m ost o f th e balsa m s probably owes its p erfu m e to a

,

p eculiar odo r ifer ous body associated with th e b e n zoic

,

acid it contains .

Fo r m aking th e tin cture o r e xt ract of olibanu m ,

tak e 1 pound of th e gu m to 1 gallon of th e spirit .

O RA NG E — During th e past c entu ry th e odor of ,

o r ange flo w er s was so m uch in vogu e that th e culti

-

vation of L ouis the Fou r teenth s orang e t r ees was a ‘

sou r c e of consid er abl e exp e ns e fo r th e great ki ng ,

would have o n e of th es e favorite sh r ubs in each of

his apart m ents .
’

“
U nd er the titl e N er o l i w e h av e al ready spok e n,

of th e odo r ifer ous p r incipl e of the o r ange blosso m -

.

W e hav e now to sp eak of what is known i n th e

m a r k e t as ess e nc e of ora n g e or , as it is m o r e fr e ,

qu ently t e r m ed , essenc e of P o r tugal — a na m e how , ,

e v e r which w e cannot ad m it in a classifi e d list of th e

,
”
odors of p l ants .

Th e otto o f orange p eel o r odorife r ous p ri n cipl e o f

-

th e o r an ge fr uit is procur ed by exp r ession and by

,

distillation T he p eel o r flav ed o is rasp ed in o r d e r

.
,
to c r ush th e l ittl e v ess els or sacs that i m prison th e
otto .

Its abundan ce in th e p eel is shown by pinching a

pi ec e n ea r the flam e of a candl e ; th e otto that spu r ts
o u t ignit es with a b r illiant illu m ination .

It has m any us es in p e rfu m e ry and fro m its r e ,

fr eshing f rag r anc e finds nu m er ous ad m ire rs .

It is the l eading i n g r edi e nt in what is sold as

“ ” “ ”
L isbon wate r and eau d e Po r tugal
,
Th e fol .

lowing is a v e ry us e ful fo r m fo r p r eparing

L rsRO N W A TER .

Rec ti fl ed spi r it ( not l ess than 60 over p r oof) , 1 gallon .

O t to o f o r ange pee l -

, 4 oz .

citr on zeste , 2 oz .

r os e , 1 oz .

This is a form for

EA U DE PORT U GA L .

Rect i fled spi ri t ( 60 ov er p r oof) , 1 gallon .

E ss ential oil o f o r ange peel -

, 8 oz .

of citr on z es te ,
2 oz .

of ber ga m ot ,
1 o z.

of otto of r ose ,
oz .

G r ap e -
spir it fo r this a rticl e p r oduc es th e fi n est
quality .

It should b e noted that th es e p er fu m es ar e n ev er to

b e put into w et bottl es , fo r if in any way da m p fr o m
water a m inute po r tion of th e ottos is s eparated ,
,

which giv es an opal esc ent app earanc e to the m ixtu r e .

Ind eed al l bottl es should b e spiri t r insed p r io r to b e

,
-

ing fill e d with any p erfu m e but esp e cially with thos e ,

conta ining ess enc es of o r ange o r l em on p eel (S ee .

NE ROLI ) .

O RRI s p r op e rly I s i s — The d r i ed rhi z o m e of I r is

,

fl or en l in a has a v e r y pl e as ant O do r which for t h e , ,

12
1 34 TH E ART or PEB FU M E R Y .

want o f a b etter com parison is said to resem bl e th e ,

s m ell of viol ets ; it is how ev er exc eedingly d e roga

, ,

tory to the charm ing a ro m a of that m o d est flowe r

wh en such invidious co m pari sons ar e m ad e Neve r .

th el ess th e p e rfu m e of iri s r o ot is good and w el l

, ,

worthy of th e plac e it has obtain ed as a p e rfu m ing

substanc e T he powd er of o rr is r oot is v e ry exten
.

si vel us e d in th e m anu factur e of sach et powd er s

y ,
“
tooth powd er , &C It fath e rs that c el ebra te d ori
-
.

” “ ”
ental h erb known as odonto
,
For tinctu r e of .

o r r is or as th e p e rfu m e rs cal l it,

, ,

E X TR AC T or O RRrs .

T ak e o r r is r oo t c r ush ed , ,

Rec ti fled spi r its ,

Aft er standing tog eth e r fo r about a onth th e m ,

ex tract is fit to tak e o ff It requires consid erabl e .

ti m e to drain away and to p r ev ent loss the r e m ain

, , ,

d e r of th e orris should be plac e d in th e tincture

press This extract ente rs into the co m position o f
.

m any of th e m ost c el ebrat e d bouqu ets such as ,

”
Jock ey C lub an d oth ers but is n ever sold alon e
, , ,

b e caus e its O do r , although gra teful is n o t su ffici ently ,

good to stand public O pinion upon i ts own m e r its ;

but in com bination its valu e is v e ry great ; poss ess
ing co m parativ ely littl e a ro m a itself, it has th e
pow e r of str e ngth e ning th e odor of oth er fragrant
bodi es ; like th e flint and ste el which though c o m , ,

p a r ati v ely inco m bustibl e r e adily fi r e infla m m ,abl e

bodi es .

PA L M (E lm s guin eensis) — T h e odo r of pal m oil .

th e fat oil of co m m er c e— is d ue to a frag r ant pri n

c i pl e which it contains By infusio n in alcohol th e
.
,
1 36 TE E AR T .
or r E Rr U M E Rv .

d eriv ed fr o m th e botanic kingdo m ; h enc e if m ixed ,

in th e p r oportion of m easur e fo r m easu re it c o m ,

p l etel y cov e rs t h e s m el l of all oth e r bodi e s .

E X T RACT or P ATCHO U L Y .

Recti fled spi r it , 1 gallon .

O tto o f patchouly , 1 } oz .

r ose , oz .

Th e ss enc e of patchouly thus m ad e is that which

e

is found in th e p erfu m er s shops of Pari s and L o n ’

don A lthoug h few p e rfu m es hav e such a fashion

.

abl e r u n y et wh en s m ell ed at in its pure state it is

, ,

far fr o m agr eea bl e havi n g a kind o f m ossy or m usty

,

odor analogous to Lycopodiu m , o r as som e say it

, , ,
”
s m ells of old coats .

T he char acte ristic s m ell of C hin es e or Indian ink

is d ue to so m e ad m ixtu r e of this h erb a ri d cam pho r .

The origi n of the use of patc houly as a p erfu m e in

Europ e is cu r ious A few y ea r s ago r eal Indian
.

shawls bore an extravagant pric e and purchas e rs ,

could always distinguish th em by th ei r odo r ; i n fact ,

th ey w ere p er fu m ed with patchouly Th e F r ench .

m an ufactu r er s had fo r so m e ti m e succ essfully i m i

tate d th e Indian fab ric but could not i m part th e ,

odo n
A t l ength th ey discov er ed th e s ec r et , and b egan
to i m port th e plant to p erfu m e articl es of th eir m ake ,

and thus pal m o fi ho m espun shawls as real Indian !

‘

Fro m this origin th e p erfum er s have b r ought it in to

u se .Patchouly h er b is ext ensiv ely us ed fo r sc ent
ing d r awe rs in which lin e n is kept ; for this pu r pos e
it is b est to powd er the l eaves and put th em into
m usli n sacks , cov e r e d with silk , aft e r th e m an n e r of
 PE A (SW E E T ) . 1 37

th e old fashion ed lav end er bag In this state it is

-
.

v e ry efficacious in p r ev enting th e cloth es fr o m b eing

attack ed by m oths S ev er al com binations of patch
.

ouly w ill b e giv e n in th e r ecip es for bouqu e ts an d

nos egays .

P E A
( S W EE T ) — A v ery fi n e odor m a b e e xtract e d
.
y
fro m t he flow e r s of th e chick v etch by en fleu r age -

with any fatty body , an d th en digesting th e po m ad e

p r oduc e d in spirit It is how ever , r ar ely m an u fac
.
,

tu red b e caus e a v er y clos e

,

I M IT A TI O N or THE E S SE NC E or SWE ET P E A
can be p r epa r ed thus
E xt r act of tub er euse ,

fleu r d or ang e
’
,

r ose fr om po m atu m ,

vanilla ,

“
In giving th e recip e fo r sw eet p ea as abov e, w e
fo rm it with th e i m p ression that its odo r r es em bl es
th e o r ange blosso m whi ch si m ilarity is app r oach ed
,

n ear er by th e addition of th e r os e and tub er os e .

T he vanilla is us ed m er ely to gi v e p erm an enc e to

th e sce nt on th e h andk er chi e f, and this latt e r body
is ch os e n in p r efer e nc e to extr acts of m usk or a m b er
gr is which would answ e r th e sa m e purpos e of gi v
,

ing p erm an enc e to th e m o r e volatil e ing redi ents ; b e

caus e the vanilla strike s th e sa m e key of th e ol facto r y
n e rve as th e orang e blosso m and thus n o n ew id ea ,

of a different sc ent is b r ought about as th e p e rfu m e

di es o ff fro m th e handk er chi ef Wh e n p e rfu m es ar e .

n o t m ix e d upon this p r incipl e th e n w e h ear that ,

”
such and such a p er fu m e b ecom es sickly or
“ ”
faint afte r th ey hav e b een on the handk er chi ef a
short ti m e .
1 38 TRE ART or PER F U M E RY .

—
P E PP ERM IN T The fin est p epp erm int is that culti
.

v ated at M itcha m , Su r r ey ; th e sight of th e nu m e rous

ac r es of this plant at that plac e is alon e sufli c i en t to

S how th e public tast e fo r this odo r : st r ictly sp eaking ,

howeve r p epp er m int is consu m e d m o r e th rough th e

,

m outh than th e nos e L arg e as is o u r own c o n su m p

.

tion England exports a consid erabl e a m ount of th e

,

h e rb an d of th e otto of p epp e rm int which is read ily ,

O btain e d fr o m it by disti ll ation .

Th ere are s eve ral plants which yi eld fragr ant oils
wh en distill e d with steam A m ong this class p e pp e r
.

m int holds a high plac e on acco u n t of its exhilarati n g

as w ell as its ar o m atic qualiti es A bout th r ee thousan d

.

acr es of it ar e unde r cultivation i n No rth Am e r ica ,

vi z 1 00 0 in N ew Y o r k and O hio and 2 0 00 in S t

.
, , .

Jos e ph s C ou nty M ichigan which ap p ears to b e its

’
, ,

h e ad qua rte rs It is rais ed exclusiv ely fo r its oil

.
,

about 7 l bs of which is th e av e r ag e yi eld fo r an ac r e

.

of plant th e pric e b eing 1 08 p er l b The roots O f

,
. .

th e p ep p er m int a r e plant e d thickly i n r ows b et w e en ,

which spac es ar e l eft fo r th e cultivator to pass T he .

plant is gen erally c u t about th e latter pa r t of A u

gust and pl ac ed in s m all cocks lik e thos e of hay ,
,

which ar e allow ed to stand i n th e fields som e days

b efo r e b eing tak e n in fo r distillation G re at care is .

ex e rcis e d to p r e ve nt w e eds g r owing a m ong th e plants

so as to insure a pure articl e of oil The fi elds are .

plough ed up and changed e v ery fi v e y ea r s ; th e fi rst

'

y ear s c rop b eing g en er ally th e m ost ab undant and

’

the pur est .

T h e app ar atus fo r distilling p epp er m int o i l consists

o f a boil e r for r aising s team , a stil l m ad e of wood fo r

r e c e iving th e ch a rg e of p epp e r m int a cool er for con ,

1 40 TR E A RT or P E RF U M E RY .

inv e stigations on the resp ectiv e m e rits of d istill ed oil

of p epp er m int by steam h eat an d by th e h eat of th e
n ak e d fi r e has a r r iv ed at th e following conclusions :
,

D r i ed pe pper m int h er b aflo r ds by distillation ov er th e nak ed

‘

fi re a gr eater quantity o f oil than by distillation by th e aid o f

stea m .

T he obtain ed by ste am distillation is Specifically lighter and

Oil ,

o f a b r igh te r c olo r than that d i still ed ov er a nak ed fi r e

, .

B y th e r ectification of the latter by m eans of stea m h eat an o i l ,

is ob tain ed which is equal to that obtain ed by steam distillation ,

and has a specific gr avity o f 910 whil e th e oil r em aining b ehind

.
,

by steam r ectification in th e r eto r t shows a S pecific gr avity of 930 . .

Fr esh p eppe r m int h er b giv es by stea m d istillation and by distilla

ti on ov er a nak ed fi r e an equal quantity of oil .

D r i ed p epper m int h er b co ntai n s two d i fl er en t oils poss essing dif

'

fer en t boiling points and d ifi e r en t specific g r aviti es The oil of

'
-
.

high er Specific g r avity m ust be for m ed fr o m that o f th e low er Spe

c i fic gr avity du r ing th e dr y ing and k eeping of th e h er b as the ,

freshly d r i ed h er b aflo r d s only o n e oil o f sp ecific gr avity 91 0

-
‘

, . .

of the m ost esteem ed arti cl es of p e r fu m ery

On e
m anufac tu r e i n which p epp erm int tak e s th e initiativ e

is th e r e nown e d E au B otot .

P U B AL A M
E R S O F — T h e odo r of this substanc e r e
.
,

s em bl es v ery n ear ly that of vanilla, but is not so

g en er ally pl easing ; in app ear anc e i t re s em bl es o rdi
n ary t r eacl e o r m olas s e s O n account of its d ar k .

colo r it cannot b e v er y m uch em ploy ed in spirit p er

fa m ery but add ed to soap it i m parts its fr agranc e
,

an d at th e sa m e ti m e caus es th e soap to wash with a

soft cre am y lath e r Balsam of P eru havi ng also th e

.

r eput e of a m ild m e dicinal action u po n th e skin soap ,

”
containing it is said to b e h ealing, h enc e is us efu l
in wint er fo r chapp ed ski n ; the p r opo r tions ar e Bal ,

sam of P e r u 2 l bs cu r d soap 5 6 1b s m el te d tog eth e r

.
, .
,
.

D r C Do r at of L a U nion , State of Salvado r , C en

. .
,
 B A L SA M or PERU . 1 41

t r al Am e rica has furnish ed som e interesting p ar ti cu

,

lars of its p r oduction , which w e app end :

Th e tr ee is handso m e r ath er widely br anching below di m inish
, ,

ing at to p and about fifty feet high Th e flow ers which ar e v er y

, .
,

odo r ifer ous app ea r i n the latter par t of Se ptem ber and beginning
,

o f O ctober at th e e xt r em iti es of th e b r anch es g e n e r ally in pai r s

, , ,

nu m er ous on each stem white and un equal ; calyx of a pal e bluish

,

gr een and v ery glutinous fr om exuding balsa m

,
Leav es o f a dar k
, .

shining g r ee n T h e fr uit is al m o n d sh aped winged and contain

.
~
, ,

ing a white k er n el wi th m uch balsam , .

A v er y super ior balsa m is so m eti m es coll ected fr o m th e flow ers

'

but is v er y scar c e and n ev er found in com m er ce Th e tr ee pro

, .

duces afte r fi v e y ea r s gr owth and attains a gr eat age It p refers

’
, .

a d ry and poor soil but is n ev er found abov e an altitude of 1 000

,

feet T h e ar om a is p erc eiv ed at a distanc e o f m or e than 1 00 ya r ds

. .

Th e t ree having attain ed th e p r oper ag e fi v e o r si x y ear s th e , ,

oases/ w o r coll ecting begins with th e d r y season ea r ly i n N ov em ber

, ,
.

T he bar k fo r so m e di stance up is w ell b eat e n o n four sid es with

, ,

th e back of an a e o r oth er blunt inst r u m e nt until it has s epa r a

x
, ,

ted fr o m th e woody pa r t but without inju ry o r b r eaking ,

This .

r equi re s gr eat car e In per for m ing thi s oper ation fou r i n ter m e
.
,

diate str ips of ba r k ar e l eft untouch ed so as n ot to destr oy th e vi ,

tality o f th e t r ee .

Se v er al notch es o r cuts ar e now m ade in th e po r tions o f beate n

bar k wit h a sha r p m ac hi ts and fi r e is appli ed to the open ings Th e
, .

e xuding b alsa m ki ndl es and is allow ed to bu r n fo r a cer tai n ti m e

,

and th en e xti nguish ed .

Th e t re e i n this state is l e ft fo r fifte en days and ca r efully watch ed ,

a fter which ti m e th e balsa m which begins to ru n copious l y is r e , ,

ce i v ed on cotton r ags stu ffed into th e cuts Wh e n satu rated th ey .

,

ar e p r ess ed and th r ow n into th e ea r th e nwar e po ts with boiling ,

water o n which th e balsam soon floats lik e o i l It is occasionally

,
.

ski m m ed o ff and th r own into cl ean jar s whil e fr esh r ags ar e ad ded , .

Th e e xt r action fr o m th e t ree is only m ad e du r ing fo ur days of each

w ee k that i s fou r cosechcs per m onth fo r eac h tr ee and th e av er
, , ,

ag e p r oduc e is fr o m th r ee to fi v e pounds per w eek A s soon as the .

supply b egins to fail fr esh cuts ar e m ad e in th e ba r k fi r e agai n ap

, ,

pli ed and after th e fi fteen days r est th e extr action is r esu m ed I n

,
’
.

this m an ner th e coll ec ting continu es until th e fi rst r ains app ear i n
A pr il o r M ay wh en all tr abajo o r wor k c eases
, .
1 42 THE ART or P E B FU M E B Y.

Wh en thus pr epar ed the balsam i s o f a v ery dar k br own colo r

, ,

di r ty and o f th e consistency o f tr eacl e It is cl ear ed and cl ean ed

, .

o n th e spot by se ttling and r e boili n g wh e n the i m pu r e pa r ts r ise

, ,

to th e su rfac e and ar e ski m m ed o ff This im pu r e par t is sold for

.

m anufactu r ing an infer io r t i nctu re use d m edicinally a m ong th e ,

Indians .

Th e balsam in this state is pu r chased on th e coast at an av er age ,

o f fr om th r ee to fou r r sa ls per pound It som e ti m es under goes a .

second cl a ing wh n it fetch s a high er pr ic e as r efi n ad o Wh en

e r e ,
e ”
.

fir st cl ean ed it is o f an a m ber color which dar k ens on cooling ;

,
,

finally after a few w eeks it becom es da r k br own

, , .

A good t r ee with car e ful u sag e w ill p r oduce w e ll for thi r ty

'

, ,

y ear s after which it is allow ed to r em ain fi v e or six y ea rs at rest

, ,

o r as th e Indian s say to r en e w its str e ngth

, , A fter thi s peri od it .

will again yi eld for s ev er al yea rs .

A ccording to a an u script copy of a P apal bull at

m ,

p r es ent am o n g th e old r ecords in Tzal c o Balsam o ,

N eg r o was in such high e stim ation that in 1 5 6 2 Pio ,

IV an d in 1 5 71 Pio V issu ed ord e rs authori z ing th e

, ,

cl ergy to u se this precio u s bal sam in th e cons ecr ati on

”
of th e Sagrada Oria na, an d pr onounc ed it sac r il ege
to d estr oy o r i nj u r e th e tr e es p r oducing it C opi es .

of th es e bulls ar e, I am info rm ed sti ll in e xiste nc e ,

a m o n g th e archiv es o f G uatem ala (See B ALSA M S ) . .

T hebalsam i m por ted into E ngland as balsam of P er u is p r od uced ,

within th e d epar t m ent o f S onsonate in th e r epublic o f S alvador , ,

and along th e coast o f which depa r tm ent th e tr ees fr om which it is

e xtr ac ted extend fo r l eagu es .

In th e distr ict o f C ui sn agn a th er e ar e 3 5 74 tr ees which yi eld ,

altogeth er only 6 00 l bs o f th e gu m an nually With pr op er ca r e in

. .

th e extr action each tr e e would yi eld fr o m two to th ree pounds ,

m aking th e total quantity ca p a b l e of be ing p r od uc ed in th e b e fo r e ,

m e ntion ed d i st r ict about , lbs Wh en th e season has bee n .

m o r e r ainy than usual th e p r oduct is m uch low er ; but in or der to

m eet this d i fli c u l ty th e Indians h eat th e body o f th e t ree by fi r e

, ,

by this m eans causi n g th e gu m to exud e m o r e fr eely ; th is Oper a

tion invar iably cau ses th e d ecay o f th e tr ee .
1 44 TH E ART or P E R E U M E R Y.

pur pose Th ese wh en thor oughly satu r ated ar e r eplac ed by oth ers
.
, , ,

which as th ey ar e r em ov ed ar e th r own into boiling water T he

, , .

h eat d etach es it fr o m the cotton and th e valuabl e balsa m being of

,

l ess gr avi ty than th e wat r floats o n th e tO p is ski m m ed o ff and

e , , ,

put in calabash es fo r sal e This balsa m was long e rr on eo usly su p

.

posed to be a p r oduction of S outh A m erica ; fo r in th e ear ly per iod:

o f th e S panish do m inion an d by th e co m m er cial r egulations th e n
,

existing r elativ e to t h e fru its of this c o ast it was usually s e nt by th e

,

m er chan ts h er e to C allao an d be ing th e nce t r ans m it ted to S pain

, ,

it th ere r ec eiv ed the nam e o f th e balsam of P er u being d eem ed ,

indig enous to that r egion The r eal plac e of its or igin was known
.

only to a few m er cantile m am — Tho Techno logis t .

P I NEA PP L E — Both D r H ofm ann and Dr L yon . .

Playfai r have fall e n into so m e er r o r in th ei r infer

en c es wit h r egard to th e applicati on of this odor in

p e rfu m ery After va r ious p r actical exp e ri m ents con

.

ducted in a la rge p e rfu m atory w e hav e co m e to th e ,

conclusion that it cannot b e so appli ed si m ply be ,

caus e wh en th e ess enc e of pin eappl e is s m ell e d at ,

th e vapo r p r oduc es an involunta r y action of th e
larynx p r oducing cough wh en exceedingly dilute
, , .

Ev e n in infinitesi m al porti ons it s til l p roduc es dis

agreeabl e i r r itati on o f th e ai r pip es which if pro -

, ,

longed such as is exp e cte d if us e d upon a han dker

,

chi ef is follo w e d by inte ns e h eadach e It is obvious

, .
,

th e refo r e that th e l egiti m ate u se of th e e ss e nc e of

,

pin eappl e (buty r ic eth er ) cannot b e adopted with

b en efit to th e m anufactu r ing p e rfu m e r al though i a ,

valuabl e to the confecti on er as a flavoring m aterial .

What w e have h er e said r efer s to th e a rtificial essence

of pin eappl e o r buty r ate o f e thyl o x i d e which , if
, ,

v e ry m uch diluted with alcohol r es em bl es th e sm ell ,

of pin eappl e and h enc e its nam e ; but how far the
,

sam e obs erv ations ar e applicabl e to th e t r u e ess ential

O i l fro m th e fruit o r epid e r m is of the pin eappl e r e
 PIMENTO . 1 45

m ains to b e s een when w e procu r e it A s th e West .

Indian pin e appl es ar e now com ing freely into th e

m ark et th e day is p r obably n ot distant w h e n d e
,

m o n str ati v e e xp eri m ents can b e tri ed ; but hith e r to ,

it m ust b e r em em b e red o ur exp er i m ents hav e only

,

b ee n p er fo r m ed with a body r esem bling in sm ell the

t r u e e ss e ntial oil of the fruit The physical action of
.

all eth ers upon th e hu m an body is quite su ffici ent

to prev ent th ei r applicati on in p e rfu m e ry how ev er ,

us eful i n confecti on ery which it is und e rstood has to

,

d eal with anoth er of th e s e ns e s— not of s m el l but of ,

“ ”
taste Th e co m m ercial essenc e of pin eappl e or
.
,
“ ” “ ”
pin eappl e oil and jargon ell e p ear oil ar e ad
, ,

m i tted only to b e labell ed such but r eally ar e c e rtain

,

organic acid eth ers For th e pr es e nt th en th e p er

.
, ,

fu m e r m u st only look on th es e bodi es as so m any

”
lin es i n th e Po etry of S ci enc e which for th e p r e s , ,

e n t ar e without p r actical application in his art

, Fo r .

th e m anufactu r e of a r tificial fr uit ess enc e see App e n -

dix .

—
P I M E NT O Both l eav es and b er ri es of this plant
.

yi eld by distillation a fi n e otto ; that how ev er fr o m the

b e r ri es should be chos e n by th e p e rfu m er S ev er a l .

plants yi eld analogous ottos by th e l eaf and flow er o r ,

th e l e af and th e bark such as p etty grain fro m th e

,

o r ange l e af and n er oli fr o m th e flow er , otto cinna

,

m o n fr o m th e cinnam on (inn e r bar k ) cassia (ou ter ,

bar k) an d cinnam on l eaf oil fro m th e l e ave s Th e

, .

odo r of pi m e nto v e ry m uch r e s em bl es that of clov es ,

an d in a ga m ut of odors would b e plac ed on th e scal e

o n e octav e high e r .

O n e hund r edw eight of clov es will yi eld eightee n

pou nds of otto , b ut a hund r edw eight of pi m ento will
13
1 46 TH E A RT or P E RP U M E RY .

yi eld but six pounds of otto ; h enc e without so m e ,

real advantage in odo r which it h as not pi m ento , ,

cannot co m m e rcially tak e th e plac e of clov es .

P I N K (D ian l hus Oary op hyll us) — T he clov e pink .

“ ”
e m i ts a m ost fr ag rant odor e sp ecially at night , ,

says Darwin .

“ T he lavish pink that sc e nts th e gar den r ound

is not how e ver , at p r es ent appli ed i n p erfu m e ry
, ,
ex

c ep t i n na m e .

I M ITA TI ON ESSE NC E GLO V E

E sp r it r ose ,

fi eu r d o r ange ’
,

fl eu r de cassi e ,

vanilla ,

Oi l of clov es ,

It is rem ar kabl e how v e ry m uch this m ixtu r e r e

s em bl es th e odo r of th e flow er and the public n e ve r ,
”
d oubt its b eing th e r e al thing .

B n om um — Wh en ros e wood th e lignu m of th e -

Con volvulus scop ar i us is distill e d a sw eet s m elling , ,

-

oil is p r ocu r ed r es em bling in so m e slight d eg re e th e

,

fragrance of th e r os e and h enc e its nam e A t o n e ,

.

ti m e that is prio r to the cultivati on of th e rose l eaf

, ,
-

g er aniu m th e distillates fr o m ros e wood and fro m

,
-

th e root of th e G en ista can ar i ensi s ( C anary r os e wood ) -

w er e p ri n cipally d rawn fo r th e adulte r ation of real

otto of ros es ; but as th e ge raniu m oil answe rs so
m uc h b ett er th e oil of r hodiu m,
has fall en into dis
u se h e nc e its Co m pa r ativ e scar city i n th e m a r k et at
,

th e pr e s e nt day though o u r g r and fath e rs kn ew it

,

w ell O n e cwt o f wood yi elds about three ounc es

. .

of oil .
1 48 THE AR T or P E R FU M E B Y.

This qu ee n of th e gard e n los es not its diad em i n

th e p e rfu m ing world T h e oil of ros es o r as it is
.
, ,

Co m m only call ed th e otto , o r atta r , of r os es is pro

, ,

cu r ed (contra ry to so m any Opposit e stat em ents) si m

’

ply by distilling th e ros es with water .

T h e otto or attar , of ros e of co m m erc e is d e riv ed

,

fr o m the Rosa cen tifolia p r ovincialis V ery exte nsive .

ros e farm s exist at A drianopl e (Turk ey in Europ e );

at B r oussa n o w fam ous as th e r esid enc e of Abd e l
,
-

Kad e r ; and at U sl ak (Turk ey i n A sia); also at Ghaze

po r e i n India
, .

Th e c ultivators in Tu r k ey ar e principally th e C hris

tian inhabitants of th e l o w countri es of the B al kan ,
b etw een S eli m n o and C arl oy a, as far as Philippopolis ,
i n Bulgaria , about 20 0 m il es fro m C onsta n ti nopl e .

“
H ad n ot th e late Russian aggr ession b ee n nipp e d
”
in the bud by th e advanc e of th e em bl em of th e
,

ros e sha m rock thistl e and fleur de lis , it is n ea rly

, , ,
- -

ce rtain that th e sc en e o f th e rec ent w ar would hav e

,

b ee n laid not i n th e C ri m ea b ut in th e Ros e Farm s ,

of th e Balkan : n everth el ess who is th er e would ,

have doubted th e prowess of th e d esc endants of the

H ous es of Y o r k and L ancaste r ! In good se asons ,

this distr ict yi el ds ounc es ; b ut i n bad sea

sons only to ou n c es of attar ar e o b
tai n ed It is esti m ated that it requir es at l east 2 000
.

rose bloo m s to yi eld o n e d rach m of otto .

My fri end M r A m er l i n g a Turkish d rug m er

, .
,

cha n t r esiding at C ons tantinopl e s ends m e the fol

’

, ,

lowing particular s i n r eply to m y r equ est fo r i n fo r

m ation of a p r actical cha r act e r r elating to th e pro

duction of otto of rose .

 ROSE . 1 49

Th e os es are g r own i n Ro u m elia at K i zanlik an d the annual

r ,

pr oduce is about m eti c au x ; 1 0 o r 1 2 ok es * o f r os es will r en

d er 1 m eti c au x T h e p r ocess of distilling is th e sa m e as that of

.

spi r it p ar ala m bic Th e p r od uce of this y ear will be l ess than th e

, .

p r evious on es vi z only 200 000 to

, .
, m eti caux
,
'

T h e cultivation o f th e r os es fo r ext r acting otto is th e sa m e as

fo r th e o r di na r y roses I beg to add o n th e subj ect o f distilling
. .

Y o u m ust put in a boil er as m any ok es o f r os es as of water boil ,

th e sa m e and th en extr act oil p ar al a m bic

, Th en you r em ov e th e .

r oses fr o m th e boil er an d boil agai n th e fi r st ext r act o f th e alam bic

, ,

and it is th en th e s econd pr oduce of th e alam bic that giv es th e o i l

o f r oses .

T o 1 0 ok es o f r os es you m ay put 40 o r 50 ok es of water i n a

boil er at ala m bic and boil th em w ell Y ou m ay add at the ope n
, .

ing of th e ala m bic a bo ttl e whi ch m ay con tain about 7 ok es Wh en .

full yo u r em ov e it and y o u place an oth er o n e in i ts plac e and wh e n

, ,

th is also is full y o u put in th e sa m e way a thi r d o n e In this way

, .

you obtain a bout 2 1 ok es o f o i l in th r ee bottl es o f fir st second , , ,

and thi r d water th en yo u em pty th e boiler and cl ean it w ell

, , .

A fter war ds you pour into it th e contents O f th e fi rst bottl e d r awn

and boil it Th e alam bic th en will gi v e th e o i l of r os es floating on
.

th e water which you s epar ate

, Th en yo u go o n wi th the sa m e
.

pr oc ess with th e s econd and thi r d bottl es The fir st bottl e p r o .

du ces better o i l than th e s econd and the second bette r than th e ,

thi r d In th e cultivation ther e is no pa r ti cular featu re excepting

.
,

that in the wi nter you co v er th e r oots wi th eart h which y ou br eak ,

o n th e app r o ach o f su m m er .

Th e im po r tant thing is to coll ect th e r oses at dayb r eak oth er ,

w i se the r oses will n o t yi eld so m uch .

Th e otto fro m d i ffe rent distri cts slightly vari es in

odor m any plac es furnish an otto which solidifi es
m or e r e adily than oth er s and th e re for e this is not , , ,

a sure gu id e of purity though m any consid er it such , .

That which was exhibit e d in th e C rystal Palac e of

”
1 8 5 1 , as fro m G hazep o r e, in India, obtain ed th e
pri z e .

Th e otto of ros e w hich is procured by distillation

On e Tu r kish o ke is about 2 } to 2} lb . E ngli sh .

"
13
1 50 r an an or r s a r ux s a r .

fr o m th e Prov enc e ros e of th e south of Franc e and

of N ic e has a v e ry characte risti c fr agranc e i m parted ,

to it I b eli eve by th e b ees which car ry the poll e n of ,

th e orange blosso m so nu m er ous in this dist r ict in to

th e ros e buds T he Fr e nch otto is rich e r in s ter e
-
.

opte n than the Turkish ; an ounc e and a half will

crystall iz e in a gallon of spirit at th e sam e tem p era
ture that it requi r es th r ee ounc es of th e b est Tu r kish
otto to do th e sa m e .

A tta r of r oses ad e in C ash m ere is considered superior to any

, m ,

oth er ; a ci r cu m stance not su rp r ising as acco r ding to H ugel the , ,

flower is h ere pr odu ced o f su r passing fragr ance as w ell as beauty .

A la r g e quantity o f r os e water twi ce di still ed is allowed to r u n o ff

-

into an O pe n v ess el place d ov er night in a cool r un n ing str eam and

, ,

in the m or ning th e oil is found floating on the su r fac e i n m inute

spec ks which are tak en o ff v er y ca r efully by m eans o f a blad e of
,

swor d lily Wh en cool it is of a da r k gr ee n color and as ha rd as

-
.
,

r esin not beco m ing liquid at a tem pe r atur e about that o f boiling
,

water B etw een 500 and 600 pounds w eight o f l eav es is r equi red
.
’

to p r oduce o n e ounc e of th e atta r *

.

A t Ro m o d or of the ro se w as in such r e
e, the
qu est that L ucullus exp end ed fabulous su m s , i n
,

o r d e r to b e abl e to hav e i t at all s e asons But in .

our day pure otto of r os es fro m its cloying sw eet ,

n ess has not m any ad m i r e rs : wh e n diluted , how

,

e v er th er e is nothing e qual to it in odor , esp ecially

,

if m ix ed i n soap to fo r m ros e soap or in pure spi r it

, , ,

to fo rm th e esprit d e ros e T he soap not allowing .

th e p e rfu m e to evaporate v e ry fast, w e cannot b e

su rfeited with th e sm e ll of th e otto .

T h e fin es t p r eparation of ros e as an odor is m ad e

at G rasse and C an n es, in F rance H e re th e flowe r s .

Indian E n cycl opwd i a .

1 52 m s am : or P aa r u n aa r .

three hours as to b e quite sp oil ed Th ere is no o r

, .

gani e m atte r which so r apidly abso rbs oxygen , and

b ecom es h eat ed spontan eously as a m ass of freshly ,

gath er ed ros es .

To p r es erv e th es e ros es th e L ondon p erfu m e rs i m

,

m e diat ely pickl e th em ; for this purpos e , th e l e av es

ar e s eparate d fr o m th e stalks and to ev e ry bush el of ,

flow ers equal to about 6 lbs w eight , 1 lb of co m m on

,
. .

salt is tho roughly ru bb ed in Th e salt absorbs th e .

water existing in th e p etals an d rapidly b eco m es ,

brin e reducing th e whol e to a pasty m ass which is

, ,

finally stow ed away in casks In this way th ey wil l .

k eep al m ost any l e ngth of tim e, without th e fragranc e

b eing s e riously inj ured A good Ros s war n s can be .
-

p r epared by di stillin g 1 2 lbs of pickl e d ros es , and 2 } .

”
gallons of wate r Draw o ff 2 gallons ; th e p r od uct
.

w ill b e th e doubl e distill e d ros e wat e r of th e shops

- -
.

T he ros e wate r that is i m ported fr o m th e south of

-

F ranc e is , how ev er very sup erior in odo r to any that

,

can be p r oduc ed h ere A s it is a r esiduary p r oduct

.

of th e distillation o f ros es for procuring th e attar it ,

h as a richn e ss of aro m a which app e ars to be i n i m i ta

bl e with Engl ish grown r os es -
.

So anci ent is th e custo m of using fragr ant wate rs ,

that o n e of th e old est author s r ep eate dly m entions it .

In th e Ar abian Nights (wri tt e n prio r to th e C hristian

h e story of A b o u lh assan it will b e r e m em
er a
) ,
in t ,

b er e d that
Wh en th e p r ince o f P er si a visited th e qu een and that h e h ad ,

partak en of r efr esh m e nts th e slav es br ought h im gold en basins

,

fill ed wi th odor ifer ous water to wash in an d that after th e declar a ,

tion o f love by th e qu ee n and th e pr inc e th ey both fainted but were ,

b r ought to th em selv es agai n by th r owing od o r ifer ous water upon

th ei r faces and by giving th em things to sm ell
, .
 n o e s. 1 53

Th er e ar e six m odifications of ess en ce of ros e for

th e handker ch i ef which ar e th e 716 p lus ul tr a o f th e
,

p erfum er s art Th ey ar e— esprit d e rose tr ipl e, es

’
.

s e nce of w hit e r os es , ess e nce of te w r ose, ess e nc e of

m oss ros e twin ros e an d C hin e s e ros e
-

,
-
Th e follo w
, .

ing ar e th e recip es for th e ir form ation

ES PRIT DE RO SE TRI P LE .

B ec tifi ed alcohol ,

O tto o f r ose ,

Thos e who ad m ir e the rose s fragranc e will find ’

th e following form ula yi eld a m ost r echer ché quality

P IE SS E ’
S T WI N -
RO S E .

B ose pom ad e (N o . 8 l bs
.

S pi r it ( 6 0 ov er p r oof ) , 1 gallon .

F r ench otto of r ose , 1 } oz .

L et th e spirit stand on th e po m ad e fo r a m onth th en ,

strain it o ff and add th e otto M ix at a su m m e r .

h eat ; in th e course of a quart er of an hou r th e whol e

of th e otto is dissolved and is th e n r eady for bottling,

and sal e In th e winter s eason b eautiful crystal s of

.

th e otto— if it is good — app ear diss em inated through

the esp r it It r q i r es twic e th e quantity of Turk
( . e u

ish otto to crystalli z e at the sa m e t em p erature ) .

E S SE NC E or Moss Ro ss .

S pi ri tuous extr act fr o m Fr ench r ose pom atu m ,

E sp r it d e r ose t r ipl e ,

E x tr act fle ur d or ange pom atu m

’
,

o f a m b er gr is ,

m usk ,

Allo w th e ing r edi e nts to r em ai n togeth e r for a fo r t

night ; th en filte r, i f requisite, and it is r eady fo r sal e .
1 54 THE A RT O F P E R E U M E R Y.

E S S E NC E o r W H IT E B O SE .

E sp r it d e r ose from po m atu m , 1 quar t .

tr ipl e ,

E xtr act of jas m i n e ,

patchouly

E S SE NC E or TEA RO S E .

E sp ri t d e r os e po m ad e ,

tr ipl e ,

E xt r act o f r ose l eaf ger aniu m

-
,
H

C H I N ES E YE LLO W R O SE .

E sp r it r ose tri pl e ,

tuber os e ,

tonquin ,

v er vain s ,

R OS EM A RY .

Th er e s r osem ar y that s fo r
’
,
’
r em em b r ance .

By distil l ing th e R osm ar in us qflicim l is a thin li m pid

otto is procu r ed , having th e characteristic odor of th e
plant , which is m o r e ar o m atic than sweet O n e h u n .

d r ed w eigh t of th e fr esh h erb yi elds about 2 4 ounc es

of oil O tto of ros em ary is v e ry e xte nsiv ely us ed in
.

p erfu m e ry , esp ecially in co m bination with oth er ottos

fo r sc e nting soap Eau de C ologn e cannot b e m ad e
.

”
without it and in the onc e fam ous H ungary wate r
,

it is th e l eading ingredi ent T h e fol lowing is the .

co m position O f
1 56 THE ARr or PE R F U M E RY .

T he sprigs O f r ue pl ac ed on th e bar o f th e C e ntr al

C r i m inal C ourt wil l b e O bs erv ed by ev ery visitor to
Ne wgate T he origin of its u se th e re is trac ed to th e
.

ti m e wh e n th e pri son ce ll was ind ee d a n ever cl eansed -

d en O f ca r nivo r ous ani m als Th e gaol fe v er and th e

.

gaol distem p e r w er e th e n a natu ral r esult of b ein g

i m m u r ed at New gate ; and to prev ent infe ction fro m
th e prison er s at th e bar “
to th e worthy j u dg e ”
,

th e practic e O f distributi ng r ue throughout th e court

took its ris e ; an d its u se is m aintain e d ev en to th e
p r es ent day H appily , however th r ough b etter dis
.
,

c i li n e , th e hygi e nic p r op e rti es of r ue ar e n o t r e

p
qui r e d : but its pres enc e th er e is an illustrati on hi s
to ri c ally wo r thy O f r eco r d by M acau l ay or Kn igh t .

R u e yi elds u p its odorife rous principl e o r otto by dis

ti l l ati o n : its principal use is in th e m an u fac tu r e of
‘

aro m atic , toil et hygi enic and cos m etic Vin egar s
, , .

SAG E — A pow er ful sc enting otto can b e p r ocured

-

by distillation fr om any of th e Salvice It is ra r ely .

u s ed but is n ev e rthel ess v e ry val uabl e in co m bina

,

tion fo r sc enti ng s o ap Dri ed sage l eav es ground

.
-

, ,

will co m pound w ell for sach ets .

S ANr AL —(San talum album ) .

Th e santal tr ee per fu m es wh e n r iv en
, ,

Th e ax e th at laid it l o w . C AM E RO N .

This is an O l d favorite with th e lov ers O f sc ent ; it

is th e wood that poss ess es th e O do r T he fi n est santal .

wood gr ows in th e island O f Ti m or and the S anta]

wood Islands , wh er e i t is e xte nsiv ely cultivated for
th e C hin es e m ark et .In th e r eligious c er em oni es O f
th e Brah m ins , Hindoos , an d C hin es e santal wood is ,
-

b u r n ed , by way O f incens e to an ext ent al m ost b eyond

,
 S ANTA L . 1 57

b eli ef T h e San tala grew pl e nti fully in C hina but

.
,

th e continu e d O ffer ings to th e nu m e r ous i m age s of

B oo dhh av e al m ost ext erm inat e d th e plant fr o m th e
C el estial E m p i r e ; and such is th e d em and , that it is

Santal -
wood .

about to b e cultivat ed in Wester n A ustral ia i n th e ,

exp ec tatio n of a p r ofitabl e r e t u r n which w e doubt

,

not wi l l b e r ealiz ed ; England alon e would consu m e

t e nfold th e quanti ty it do e s w e r e its price within the
r ang e O f oth e r p e rfu m ing substanc es Th e otto
.

which e xists i n th e santal wood is r eadily procu r ed by

-

di stillation ; o n e hund r edweight O f good wood wil l

yi eld about 3 0 ounc es O f otto .

Th e white ant which is so co m m on i n India an d

,

C hina e ating into e v e r y o rganic m atte r that it co m es

,

acr oss app ear s to hav e no r elish fo r santal wood

,
-

h ence it is fr equ ently m ad e into cask ets j ew el box es

,
-

14
1 58 THE AM or r s a r u m aar .

d eed cas es &c This quality togeth er with its fra

-

, .
, p

ran c e r end e r s it a valuabl e articl e to th e cabin e t

g ,

m ak e rs of th e East .

T h e otto O f santal is r em arkably d ens e and is abov e ,

all oth er s O l eaginous in its app ear ance and wh en good , , ,

is O f a dark straw color W h e n dissolv ed in spirit, it .

e nte rs into the co m positio n of a gr eat m any of th e

”
O ld fashion e d bouqu ets , such as
-
M ar échal e and
oth er s th e fo r m ul as of whic h will b e giv e n h er eafte r
, .

P e r fu m ers thus m ak e what is call ed

E x r R Arr DE BOIS DE SA Nr A L .

Rec tifled spi r its ,

E spr it d e ro se ,
E sse ntial Oil , i . e. , o f otto O f santal
, ,

A ll thos e E x r RAc ad e by dissolving th e otto i n

'
, m

alcohol ar e n ea r ly white , or at l east only slightly

, '

tinte d by th e color of the O il used W h en a p er fum e r .

h as to i m part a d elicate odeur to a lady s m ouchozr

’ ‘

,
“ ”
which in so m e instanc e s costs no en d O f m on ey ,

and is an obj ect , at any cost to retain unsulli ed i t , , \

b ehoov es his reputation to s ell an articl e that will not

stain a d elicate white fabric N ow wh e n a p erfu m e .
,

is m ad e in a d i r e ct m ann e r fr o m any wood o r h er b ,

as tinctu r e s ar e m ad e that is by infusing th e w o od , ,

i n alcohol , th er e is O btain ed b e sid es th e o dorife rous ,

substanc e a solution of coloring and e xtractiv e m at

,

ter which is exc e ed ingly d etri m ental to its fr ag r an c e

, ,

b esid es s er iously staining an y cam bric h an dk er chi ef

that it m ay b e u s ed upon ; and fo r this r eason this
latter m ethod should n ev er be adopte d , exc ept for use
u pon silk handk erchi efs .

The odor O f santal assi m ilate s w ell with ros e ; and

h enc e prior to the cultivation of r os e l eaf geraniu m ,
,
-
160 TE E A RT OE R E R E U II E R Y.

quantiti es O f odoriferous gu m s and balsam s ar e pro

cu r ed which are us ed fo r altar inc e ns e an d for p er
,

fu m ing private dwellings In c o m m er c e th er e ar e .

s ev eral ki n ds O f storax : th e ha r d r ed quality is te rm ed

Ja ve in cense ; th e calam ita storax i s so n a m e d fr o m
’

th e L ati n calam i ( rush es or quills ) in refer enc e to its ,

form in th e m ar k et Th e tr u e s torax how ev er to .

, ,

which w e now r efer is a fr agrant balsam which ,

e xud e s fr o m th e wou n d e d L iquidam bar or ien ta le, a

shrubby tr ee com m on in A sia M inor .

E x T RAC T I ON or TE E L I Q UI D S T ORAx .
—Ia J un e and July , th e
outer bar k is str ipped O fl on o n e side of th e t r ee an d (according to
'

L i eut C am pbell ) m ad e into bundl es and r es er v ed fo r the pu r pose

.

o f fu m igation T h e inn er bar k i s th e n scr aped o ff with a se m i c i r

.

onla r o r sickl e shaped knife and th r own into pits un ti l a sufll ci en t

-
,

quantity has b ee n coll ected M r M altase states that it is th e n . .

pac k ed into str ong hor se hai r bags and subj ected to p ressu r e in a -

wood en l ev er pr ess U pon r em oval fr o m th e pr ess hot water is

.
,

th r own ov er th e bags and th ey ar e pr essed a second ti m e after

, ,

which th e gr ea ter po r tion O f th e r esin will hav e been extr acted .

L i eut C a m pbell s account isfa littl e d i fier en t : h e says the inn er

.
’ '

bar k is boil ed in water ov er a br isk fi r e upon which th e r esinous ,

par t com es to th e su rfac e and is ski m m ed Ofl Th e boiled ba r k is

,
’
.

n ext put into hair sac ks and p r ess ed boi li n g water being added ,

to assist i n th e extr ac tion o f th e r esin o r as it is ter m ed yogi , , , c

( i . e , Oi l
.
)
.

. says that th e stor ax coll ecto r s w ho ar e chi efly a

D r M c C rai th ,

tr ib e o f wanderi ng T ur co m ans call ed Yum /cs ar e a rm ed with a ,

tri angular i r on sc r aper with wh ich th ey sc r ape O fl togeth er with

,
’

th e juice o f th e t ree a c er tai n quantity o f ba r k which th ey col l ect

, ,

i n l eath er n pouch es suspe nded to th eir belts Wh en a s uffi ci ent .

quan tity has been Obtain ed it is boil ed i n a lar g e copper and th e , ,

separ ated liquid r esi n is r un into bar r els Th e r esidual bar k is .

plac ed i n hai r cloth and pr essed i n a r ude p ress the extr acted r esi n
-
,

bei ng ad ded to th e gen er al m ass .

T he p r oduct O btain ed by th e p r ocesses h e d esc ri bed is th e g r ay , ,

O paqu e s em i flu id r esin w ell known as L i quid Stor es

,
-

, .

Th e bar k fr o m which th e l i qu id stor ax has bee n ext r acted is ,

 S T O R Ax. 161

em pti ed out o f the bags and expo s ed i n th e sun to d r y after which ,

it is shipped to th e G r eek and Tur kish islands an d to m any towns

i n Tu r k ey wh ere it is m uch esteem ed fo r th e pu r pos e of fum i ga
, p

tion although since th e disappea ranc e O f th e plagu e its em ploy

, ,

m e nt h as g r eatly di m inish ed .

L i eut C a m pb ell states that th e quan tity O f l iquid stom a: annually

.

e xtr ac ted a m ounts to about

, ok es ( 50 0 cwt fro m th e dis .

tr i c ts O f G iova and U ll a; and 1 8 000 ok es ( 3 2 5 cwt ) fr o m thos e O f

, .

M ar m or i zza and Isgen gak .

It is ex por ted i n casks to C onstantinopl e S m y r na Syr a and , , ,

A l exand r ia Som e is also pack ed with a cer tai n p r opo r tion of water
.

in goat skins and sent eith er by boats o r ov er land to S m y r na

-
, , ,

wh er e it is t rans fer r ed to casks and shipped m ostly to T r i este * .

Th e dor O f storax is the uniting link b etw een

O

as th e late lam e nted P r ofessor Johnson distinguish e d

” “
th em th e s m ells w e dislik e and the O dors w e
e njoy ; it conn ects the fragranc e O f th e j onquill e
with the s tench of coal tar n aphtha : th e s m ell of thi s-

latter substanc e has b eco m e fa m ilia r sinc e it is us e d ,

to dissolve gutta p e r cha and is co m m only know n as ,

“ ”
solu tion Now the s m e ll of this naphtha c e r
.

tai n ly ranks with thos e w e dislik e y et s torax r e

“ ”
s em bl es it to a s m ell wh en in bul k ; y et wh e n
, , ,

divide d into s u ch an attenuated form as w e conc eive

O do r s to b e give n out by living plants th e n stora x ,

r es em bl es th e e xquisite fr ag r anc e of th e jonquill e

an d tub e ros e S O th e whi r l w ind and h u r rican e b e

“
com e th e gentl e z ephy r that m ak es the asp ens
quive r .SO th e fi r e p r oof block O f I ro n b eco m es
-

wh e n divid ed m ore co m bustibl e than gunpowd er

, .

S O th e silk e n fib r e b eco m es a r op e to stay th e cou r s e

of a ship SO th e lightning flash b eco m es the el ec
.

“ ”
tri c i ty which m ak es on e s hair stand on en d ’
.

D H A NB U RY ( ad b efo r e th e P ha r m ac eutical S oci ety

)
'

. re .

*
14
162 TE E ART OE P E RE U M E RY .

Q uantity is equ ival ent to an allotr opic condition of

m atte r ; quantity p r oduc es opposite physical effe cts

upon the faculti es A bou t an ounc e of storax dis

.

solv e d in o n e pint of r ectifi ed spirit p r oduc es th e

T I NC T U RE OF ST ORA X O f th e p e rfu m e r s labo ratory ’
.

Its principal u se is to giv e p e rm an e nc e of odo r to

analogous fr ag ranc e s that ar e p r epar ed by m ac era
ti on : thus ext ract of tub er os e o r jonquill e, p r ocu r ed
by infusi n g th e tub eros e po m ad e i n spirit , requi r e s
fo r ev ery pin t about o n e ounc e O f tinctu r e of sto r ax
“ ”
to b e add e d as a fixing to th e han dker chi ef It .

is also u s eful in com bination with oth er sc e nts to

i m itate c ertain O dors O f plants : thus it is found i n
li l y O f th e vall ey &c, .

S T ORAx and T O L U ar e us e d in p erfu m ery in th e

sa m e way as b en z oin , nam ely by solution in spi ri t
,

as a tincture A n oun ce O f tinctu r e of storax , tolu ,

.

o r b e n z oin , b eing add ed to a pound of any v e ry vol

’

atil e p e rfu m e giv es a d egr ee of p er m an enc e to it ,

,

and m ak es it last longer on th e h andk er chi ef than it

oth e rwis e wou ld : thus , wh en any p e rfu m e is m ad e ‘

by th e solu tion O f an otto in spirit it is usual to add ,

to it a s m all portion O f a substanc e which is l ess vol

atil e such as extr act O f m usk , extr act of vanilla
, ,

am b er gris , storax tol u , o rr is , v i tiv ert, or b en z oin ;

,

th e m anufactu rer using his j udgm ent an d d isc r etio n

as to which O f th es e m ate rials are to b e em ploy ed ,

choosing O f course thos e which ar e m ost co m p atibl e

, ,

an d in harm ony with th e O do r h e is m aki n g This .

can b e asc ertain ed by r efe renc e to th e G am ut pag es ,

42 , 43 . Eve ry octav e is in harm ony .

T h e pow er which th es e bodi es hav e of fixing a

vol atil e subs tanc e, re n d er s th e m valuabl e to th e p e r
1 64 TE E A RT OE P E R FU M E B Y.

us ed by m anufac turing p erfu m e rs for sc enti ng soaps ;

tho ugh w ell adapted fo r this pu rpos e th ey do not ,

answ e r at all in any oth e r co m binations Both i n .

g r eas e and in spirit all th es e ottos i m part an h e rby

s m ell (v ery natu r ally ) rath er than a flow e ry o n e and ,

as a cons e qu enc e th ey ar e not consid er ed r ec her ché

,
.

Wh e n any o f th ese h e rbs are d ri e d and ground ,

th ey us efully ent er into th e com position of sach et
pow d e r s .

T O L U S ee BALS A M S
. .

E —
T ONQU I N , o r T ON A T he se eds O f the D ip ter ix
.

ador a ta ar e th e tonqui n or co um aroum a b e ans of c o m

m er c e . Wh en fr esh th ey ar e e xc e edingly frag rant ,

having an inte ns e odo r O f n ewly m ad e hay — T he A n .

thox an thum od oratum o r sw e e t s m elling v e r nal g r ass

,
-

to which n ew hay ow es its O do r p r obably y i elds ,

id entically th e sam e fragr ant principl e and it is r e ,

m a r kabl e that both tonquin b ean s and v e r n al grass ,

whil e actual ly gro wing ar e n ear ly sc entl ess but b e , ,

co m e r apidly a r o m atic wh e n s e ve re d fr o m the par en t

stock .

C h em ically consid ered , tonquin b eans are v ery i n

te r esti n g containing wh en fr esh 9 fragrant volatil e
, , , .

otto (to which th eir O dor is p r incipally d ue) b en z oic ,

acid , a fat O i l and a n e utral principl e— Coum ar in In

, .

p er fu m e ry th ey ar e valuabl e as wh e n g r ound , th ey , ,

form with oth er bodi es an exc ell ent and p e rm an ent

sach e t and by infusion in spi rit th e tinctu r e o r ex
, , ,

t ract O f tonquin en ter s into a thousand O f the co m

pound ess e nc es ; but on account of its great st r ength
it m ust b e us ed with caution oth erwi se p eopl e say ,
”
th e p e rfu m e is sn u fi y owing to th e predom in anc e
'

O f the odo r and i ts w ell known u se in th e box es of -

thos e who indul ge in th e titillating dust .

 T U B E ROS E . 165

E x TE A CT or T O NQ U I N B E A N
Tonquin be ans ,

Rec tifl ed Spir it ,

Digest fo r a m onth at a su m m e r h eat Eve n afte r . .

this m ac er ation th ey ar e still u s eful wh e n d r i ed and

ground in those co m pounds known as P OT PO U RRI , -

O LLA P OD RIDA , &c T h e extract of ton quin , lik e ex

.

tract O f orris and extract of vanilla is n ev er sol d pure , ,

but is only u s e d in th e m an ufacture O f com pound p er

fum es It is th e l eading ingre di ent in B ouquet da
.

C ham p —th e Fi eld Bou qu et— th e great r es em blanc e

O f which to th e O dor O f th e hay fi el d r end ers it a -

favorite to th e lov e rs O f th e pasto r al .

T UB E RO SE .
— O n e O f th e m ost exquisite O do r s with
which w e are acquainte d is O btain ed by enflc ur age
fr o m th e tub er os e flow e r It is as it w er e a nos e
.
, ,

gay in itself and r em inds o n e of that d elightful p er

,

fu m e O bs er v e d in a w ell stock ed flo w er gar d e n at- -

ev eni n g clos e ; cons e qu e ntly it is m uch in d em and by

th e p e rfu m e rs for co m pounding sw eet ess enc es It .

r e quir es th r ee kilogram m es of flow ers to p erfu m e o n e

kilogram m e O f gre as e and th e val u e of th e flow er s is
,

about fi v e francs th e kilo .

E x TRA C T or T C E E RO SE .

Eight pounds of N o 24 tub er os e po m atu m cut up

.
,

v ery fi n e is to be plac e d into O n e gallon of th e b est

,

r e ctifi e d spirit A fter standing fo r thr ee w eeks o r a

.

m onth at, su m m er h e at and with fr e qu ent agitation ,

,

it is fit to d r aw O ff and b eing st rain ed th rough cotton

,

wool is r eady eith er fo r sal e or u se i n th e m an ufac

,

ture of bouqu ets .

166 TE E A RT or P E RF U M E RY .

This ess en c e O f tub eros e like that O f j as m in e is

, ,

exc eedingly volatil e and if sold in its pu r e state

,
“ ”
quickly fli es O ff th e handk er chi ef; it is th er efo re
n e c essary to ad d som e fixing ingr edi ent and fo r this ,

pu rpos e it is b est to use o n e oun c e O f tinctu r e O f

sto r ax or half an oun c e O f extract of vanilla to e v e ry
, ,

pint of tub er os e .

V A NILLA — Th e pod o r b ean of the Van illa p lan ifolia

.

yi elds a p erfum e Of rare exc ell e nc e Wh en good and .

,

V anilla plant .

if k ept for so m ti m e, it b eco m es cover ed with an

e

efli o r esc en c e O f n ee dl e c r ystals poss e ssing p r op e rti e s

,

sim ilar to b en z oic acid but diffe ring fr o m it in c o m

,

position : th es e c rystals m ay b e sublim ed by h eat of

sand bath Few O bj ects ar e m or e b eautiful to look
-
.

u pon than this wh en vi e w ed by a m icroscop e with

,

th e aid of pola ri z ed light Th e fin est vanilla is grow n

.

in M exico : the pods o r b eans ar e about eight and a

half inch e s long .

A n infe rio r quality th e produc e O f C e ntral Am e rica

, ,

is O fte n lotted at the drug sal es in L ondon O f this .

1 68 TE E ART OE PE R F U M E RY .

Ext r act of vanilla is also us ed lar gely in th e m anu

fact ure of hai r wash es which ar e r e adily m ad e by
-

m ixing th e ext r act o f vani l la with eith er ros e orang e, ,

el d er , o r ros em a ry water and afte rwards filt e ring , .

W e n eed scarc ely m e ntion that vanilla is g r eatly

us ed by cooks an d co n fe ction e rs fo r flavoring .

V E RE AE N or,V E RV AINE — Th e sc ented sp eci es of thi s

.

plant, the l em on v er b ena A loysia citr iodor a (Ho ok er ), ,

gives o n e O f th e fin est p erfu m es with which w e ar e

acquainted it is w ell known as yi elding a d elightful
fragranc e by m er el y d r awing th e hand ov er th e plant ;
so m e of th e littl e v ess els or sacs containing th e otto
m ust b e c r ush e d in this act , as th er e is littl e or no

O do r by m e r ely s m elling at th e plant .

Th e otto which can b e extracte d fro m th e l eav es

,

by distillation with wat er on account O f its high pric e , ,

is scar c el y if ever use d by th e m anufacturing p er

, ,

fu m er , b ut it is m ost successfully i m itate d by m ixing

th e otto of l em on g r ass A ndrop ogon N ar dus with r e c
, ,

ti fi ed spi r it th e O do r O f which r es em bl es th e fo r m er
,

to a nic ety T he followi ng is a good for m for m aking

.

th e

E x TaA C T or V ER B E N A .

Rec ti fied spi r it ,

O tto O f l em on gr ass
-

l em on peel ,

or ange peel -
,

Afte r standing tog eth er for a few hours and th en

filte r ing it is fit fo r sal e
,
.

A noth er m ixtu r e of this kind p r esu m ed by th e ,

public to b e m ad e fr om th e sam e pl an t, but of a fin er

d
quality , is co m po s e th us : it is so ld under the titl e
 VIOLET . 169

E x T RA IT DE VERV E I NE .

Rec ti fied spi r it , 1 pint .

O tto of o r ange peel -

, 1 o z.

l em on peel -
, 2 oz.

cit r on zeste
-

, 1 d r ach m .

l em on gr ass
-
, 2; d r ach m s .

E xtr act d e fleu r d or ange 7

’

,
o z.

tubere use , 7 o z.

E sp r it d e r ose , 4 pint .

This m ixture is exc eedingly r efr eshing and is o n e ,

of th e m ost el egant p e rfu m es that is m ad e, and b ein g

white it does n o t stain the handkerchi ef It is b est
, .

wh e n sold fr e sh m ad e as by age the citr in e O ils o x i

,

di z e and th e p e rfum e ac qui r es an eth ere al O dor , and

,
“ ”
th e n custo m ers say it is sour T h e v e rvain s thus .

p repar ed enters into the co m position of a g r eat m any

o f th e favorit e bouqu ets that ar e sold und er th e titl e

C ou rt Bouqu et and oth er s which are m i xtures of

,

Viol et, rose and j as m in e with v er b e na or v erv ai n e in

, ,

diffe rent proportions In th es e p r epa r ations as also

.
,

in eau d e Portugal and i n fact wh er e any of th e cit

,

rin e ottos ar e us ed a m uch fin e r p r od uct is O btain ed

,

by using g rap e spi r it o r brandy in p r efere nc e to th e

-

English co r n spirit as a solvent for th em

-
N o r do .

th ey d e te rio rate so quickly i n French spi rit as i n

English ; wh eth e r this b e d ue to th e O i l O f win e (cs n an
thi c e th er ) which th e for m er contains or not w e can
not say but think it m ust b e so
,
.

V I OL ET .

T he for war d v iol et thus di d I chid e

S weet thi ef wh ence didst thou s teal thy sw eet that s m ells
, ,

If n ot fr o m m y lov e s br eath ’

B A RD or A VON .

T he p e rfum xhal ed by th e Viola ador ata is so

‘

e e

15
1 70 TE E ART OE P E RE U E E RV .

unive rsally ad m ir ed that to sp eak in i tsfavor would

,

b e m o r e than sup erfluous Th e d e m and for th e.

”
ess enc e of viol ets is far g r eate r th an th e m an ufac
tu r ing p er fu m er s ar e at p r esent abl e to supply and , ,

as a cons equ e nc e i t is di ffi cult to p r ocu r e th e g e nuin e

,

articl e th rough the ordina ry sourc es O f trad e .

Real v iol et is , how ev er sold by m any o f the r etai l

,

p er fu m ers of th e West End Of L ondon but at a pric e ,

that prohibits i ts u se exc ept by th e afl u en t o r ex

tr av agan t votari es O f fashion Th e V iol et farm s fr o m
.

wh enc e th e flow e rs ar e p r ocu r ed to m ake this p er

fu m e ar e V er y extensiv e at Nic e S a rdinia ( n o w ,

Franc e); also in th e n eighbo r hood of Florenc e T he .

tru e s m elling p r incipl e o r otto O f V iol ets has rece ntly

be e n isolated by M M arch of Nic e a sam pl e O f which
.
, ,

is to b e s een at th e L aborato ry of Flow ers 2 N ew ,

Bond S tr eet A v ery concent r ate d solution in alco

.

hol i m presse s the O lfactory n er ve wi th the id ea of th e

p resenc e O f hydrocy anic acid which is p r obably a ,

t r u e i m p r ession Burn ett says that th e plant Viola

.

tr icolor (h eart s e as e) wh e n b r uis ed s m el ls lik e p each

’
-

, ,

k er n els and d oubtl ess th er efore, con ta i ns prussic

, ,

acid .

It has b ee n r em ark ed also that p ersons who have

, ,

di ed from th e effects Of prussic acid , s m ell like

”
viol ets .

T h e flow ers O f the h eart s eas e ar e sc e ntl ess but

’
-

th e plant evid e ntly contains a principl e which in ,

oth er sp eci es O f the viola is eli m inated as th e sweet

,
”
that s m ells , so b eautifully all ud ed to by S haksp eare .

Fo r co m m ercial purpos es th e O dor of the violet is

'

p r ocu r ed i n com bination with spirit, oil , or su et, p r e

c i sely acco r ding to the m e thods pre viously d e sc rib ed
1 72 TE E ART OE P E R E U E E RY .

A good IM I TA TION E SSE NC E OE V IOL ETS is b est p r e

pared thus :
S pi ri tu ous xtr act O f cassi e pom ad e
e ,

E sp r it d e r ose fr om pom ad e
, ,

Tinctu r e o f orr is ,

S pi r ituous extr ac t O f tuber ose pom ad e ,

O tto of al m onds ,

After filtr ation it is fit for bottling In this m i x .

tu r e it is the ext r act of cassi e w h ich has th e l eading

,

sm ell but m odifi ed by th e ros e and tub er os e, it be

,

com es v er y m uch lik e th e viol et M or eov e r , it has .

a gr ee n colo r lik e th e extr act O f viol et ; and as th e

,

eye influ enc e s th e j udgm ent by th e s e ns e of tast e so ,

it do es with th e s ens e O f s m ell Extr act of Viol et .

e nt e rs larg ely into th e co m positi on O f s e v er al of th e

m ost popular bouqu ets , such as extract of sprin g

flow e rs and m an y oth ers .

V iol e t flow e rs ar e worth abou t 4f 5 00 th e kilo , o r . .

28 p er pound an d it r equires 4 kilos O f flow e rs to

.
,

en fl ow er o n e kilo of fat to m ak e th e Viol et po m ad e .

V i ti v er t .

V IT IVE RT, or KU S KU S, is th e rhi z o m e O f an

-
Indian
gr ass In th e n eighborhood of C alcutta , and
. in that
city , this m ater ial has an extensiv e u se by b eing
m anu factur ed in to awnings blinds and sunshad e s , , ,

call ed Tatty During th e hot s easons an attendant

.
 V I T I VE R T —E A R E C E A L E . 1 73

sp r inkl es wat er over th em ; this O p er ation c o ols th e

apartm ent by th e evapo r ation O f th e wate r and at , ,

th e sam e ti m e , p e rfum es th e at m o sph ere i n a v ery ,

agr eeabl e m ann er , with th e odorife r ous p r incipl e of

th e v i ti v e rt I t has a s m ell b e twee n th e aro m atic o r

.

spicy O do r and that O f fl ow ers— i f such a distinction

can b e ad m itte d W e classify it with orris r oot not
.
,

tha t it has any odo r r es em bli n g it but b ecause it has ,

a lik e effect in u se in p e rfu m e ry and b ecaus e it is ,

p r epared as a tinctu r e fo r obtaining its odor .

A bout four po un ds O f the d ri e d v i ti v e rt, as it is

i m p o rted b ei n g o ut s m all and set to ste ep in a gallo n
,

of r ec tifi ed spi ri ts fo r a fo r tnight produce s the ,

E S S E NC E OF V IT IVE RT of th e Sh ops In this stat e it .

is rarely us ed as a p e rfu m e although it is occasion ,

ally ask e d fo r by thos e who p erhaps hav e l ear nt to, ,

ad m ire its O dor by th ei r p r evious r esid enc e in th e

“ ”
Easter n cli m e T h e ext r act e ss e nc e , o r tincture
.
,

of vi ti v e rt e nt ers into th e co m position of s ev e ral of

,

th e m uch ad m i re d and old bouqu ets m an u facture d

-

in the ea rly days of p er fu m ery in England such as ,

M ousseline des I ndes ”

fo r which p r epar ation M
, , .

D el c r o i x in th e z e nith of his fa m e, cr eated quite a

,

f u r or in th e fashionabl e wo r ld .

Ess enc e O f v i tiv ert is also m ad e by dis solving 2 o z .

of otto O f vi ti v ert in 1 gallon of spi rit ; this p repar a

tion is st r onger than the tinctu r e as abov e ,
.

M A RE CHA L E and B O UQU E T D U RO I p er fu m es which ,

”
hav e also had th ei r day o w e m uch o f th e i r pec u
,

l i ari ty to th e v i ti v ert contain ed in th em .

B undl es of v i ti v er t are sold fo r p e rfu m ing lin e n

and p r ev e nting m oth and wh e n g round it i s u s ed
, , ,

to m anufacture c er tain sach et powd ers .

*
15
1 74 TE E ART O F P B B FU M E R Y.

O tto of . v i ti v er t
is procu rabl e by distillation ; a
hund r edw eight of v i ti v ert yi el ds about 1 4 o z of .

otto which i n app ea ranc e v ery m u ch res em bl es otto

,

of santal I hav e plac ed a sa m pl e O f it in th e m u

.

s eu m at Kew .

V OLE AME RIA — A n exquisite p e rfu m e is sold und e r

.

this nam e p r esu m ed o f cou rs e to b e d e riv e d fro m

, , ,

th e Vol/ co m m a in erm is L indl ey

( ) Wh e th e r it has a
.

s m ell r es em bling th e flow er of that pl ant or wh eth er ,

th e plant bloo m s at all , w e ar e unabl e to say It is .

a n ativ e O f India and s eem s to b e littl e known eve n

,

in th e b otanic gard ens O f this country ; how ev er , th e

plant h as a nam e and th at s enough fo r th e v er satil e
,
’

Pa risian p e rfu m er, and if th e m ixtu r e h e m ak es

tak es with th e fashionabl e world— th e plant which
ch r istens it has a fin e p erfu m e for a c e rtainty !

E SSE N CE VO L E A M E RIA .

E sp r it d e V iol ette ,

tubereuse ,

jas m in e ,

r os e ,

E sse nce d e m usk ,

WALL F L OWE R ( Cheiran thus) .

Wh er e th e w al l flo w er scents the d ewy ai r .

B U RN S .

Exquisite as is th e O dor O f this flow er , it is not

u s e d i n p erfu m er y , though no doubt it m ight b e ,

and v ery successfully too , w er e th e plant cultivated

fo r that purpos e TO this flow e r w e would di r ect
.

particular att ention , as o n e w ell adapte d fo r ex p eri

m e nts to O btain its odorifer ous p r incipl e in this coun

try o ur cli m ate b eing good for its p r od uction Th e

,
.
1 76 TE E ART Or PEB FU M E B Y .

O il and that which is

, uch ch em ical i nterest fr o m the fact
o f so m ,

that it has been a r ti fi cially p r epared .

It is term ed wh en thus prepar ed th e spi ro yl ate O f th e oxide o f

, ,

m ethyl and is O bta in ed wh e n two par ts o f m ethyl e n e o n e and a

, ,

half par ts O f spi ro yl i c acid and o n e pa r t O f sulphu r ic acid ar e dis

,

till ed to geth er I t is a co lor l ess liquid o f an agreeabl e ar o m ati c

.
,

Odo r and taste ; it dissolves slightly i n water but in all p r opo r tions ,

in other and al c ohol ; it boils betwee n 41 1 and 43 5 F ah r and has ° °

.
,

a specific gr avity of Th is co m pound expels ca r bonic ac id

fr om i ts com binations and fo rm s a s er i es of salts which contain
, ,

o n e ato m of base an d o n e ato m O f spi r oy late o f th e oxide O f m ethyl .

It behav es th ere for e as a conjugate ac id Its fo r m ula is C u Hs 0 5 .

‘

C , H3 0 .

T h e sp i r o y lic ac id m sepa r ated fr om th e natur al O il by treat

ay be
ing th e latter with a concentr ated solution O f caustic potash at a
tem per atu r e O f 1 1 3 F ah r wh en wood spi rit is form ed and ev apo
°
.
,

r ates and th e solution contai ns the S i r o l ate of potash fr o m which

, p y , ,

wh en d ecom pos ed with sulphu r ic acid the spi r o yli c acid separ ates ,

and subsides in th e fluid .

Spi ro y li c acid is also fo r m ed by the oxidati on o f spi ro yl i gen i c

acid and wh en sali ge ni n salicin co ur m ac i n o r indigo is h eated
, , , , ,

with caustic potash .

U pon th e s trength O f th e na m of this odorous plant e

a v e ry nic e handker chi ef p e rfu m e is m ad e call ed ,

I C E L A N D W I N T E R GRE E N .

E spr it d e ose
r ,

E sse n ce o f lav end er ,

E xt rac t O f n er oli ,

vanil l a ,

v i ti v e r t,

cassi e ,

a m ber g r is ,

EC O N O MI CAL S O EN TS .

A s ch eap p e rfu ms ar e ofte n r equi r ed to fill littl e

e

fancy bottl es , such as ar e sold at th e ba z aars , toy

 E C ON O MICAL SCEN TS . 1 77

shops arcad es , wh eels of Fortun e and oth er plac es,

, ,

th e following r e cip es fo r th ei r m anu fac tu r e will be

found O f s e rvic e .

S pi r it O f wi n e ,

E ss en c e ber gam ot ,

S pi r it win e
of ,

O tto o f santal ,

S pi r it win e
of ,

O tto Fr ench lav ender ,

ber gam ot ,

clov es ,

S pi r it of wi n e ,

E sse nce l em ons ,

S pi r it O f wine ,
1 pint.

O tto pe tit gr ain , ounce .

or ange peel -
, i O unce .

Nearly all th es e m ixtu r es will require to be filtered

th r ou gh blotting pap er , with th e additi on O f a littl e
-

m agn e sia , to m ak e th e m bright What th es e sc e nts .

are to be nam ed , w e m ust l eav e to abl er no m e ncla

turiste .

Th e proc ess es d escrib ed for procuring th e O dors of

plants ar e thos e n o w in u se by th e p e rfu m e r : futu r e
ages wil l doubtl ess witn ess m any i m p r ov em ents al ,

though th e m ethods now adopt ed app ear al m ost p er

feet Th e m ost m ark ed inv enti on , as a m eans of
.
1 78 TE E ART or PEB FU M E R Y .

win n i n g th e Od ors O f r ec ent date , is that of M Fiver s

, .
,

which is v er y ingenious and although faulty w il l

, , ,

p r obably l ead up to so m ething us e ful and practical .

M P i v e r s m ay be ter m e d th e Pn e u m atic P r oc ess

.
’
,

sinc e it consists of fo r cing a curr e nt O f ai r into a

v ess el fill ed with fr esh flow ers and th e n pass ed into
,

a s econd v essel containing greas e, which is k ept fluid

and i n which r evolve disc plate s ; the ai r th us charge d
with O do r fr o m th e flow ers pass es over th e gr ease ,

an d th er e yi elds up its sc e nt Th e apparatus is so

.

contr ived that th e sa m e air rep eatedly pass es through

th e sa m e v ess el .

By this process a n ew pro duct h as al so b ee n o h

tai n ed for wh e n th e ai r , having pass e d ov e r th e flo w
,

e r s is r ec eiv ed into a c ond e nsing v ess el an int ens ely

, ,

odo r ous wate r is p rocu re d having th e frag r ance of

,

th e flow e rs em ploy ed I n a r e m ar kabl e d eg r ee .

M M illon , a F r ench ch em ist , so m e few y ea r s past

.
,

pate nte d a p r oc ess o f ext r acting O dors O f flow er s by

m e ans O f e th e r and sulphid e O f carbon h e plac es th e
flowe rs in a p ercolator and pass es th e solvent fluid
,

over th e m ; th e liquid which co m es away contains

th e odo r o u s body togeth er with a con sid e rabl e p o r
,

ti on of wax ; o n distilling th e liquid th e odorous ,

body m ix ed with th e wax r em ains , b eing l ess volatil e

than eith er th e su lphi d e O f ca rbon o r eth er Th es e .

p r oducts ar e inter esting in a ch em ical s ens e but are ,

of littl e av ail at pres e nt to the p racti c al p erfu m er .

W e hav e n ow d escrib ed all th e i m por tant o d o r if

e r o u s bodi es which ar e us ed by th e m anufactu r ing

p e rfu m e r as d erived fro m th e botanic kingdo m ; i t

,
1 80 TE E A RT OE r E RE U M E R r .

TE E C O MM ERC I AL E L E M ENT S or P Ea r U M E Rr .

Qua n ti ti es of E ssen ti al Oil s Ottos, p ayi ng l s p er p ou nd D u ty ,

or .

en ter ed f or H om e Con su m p ti on i n the Year 1 8 52 .

Ot to ber gam ot
of , .

car away ,

cassia ,

clov es ,

lav e nder ,

l em on ,

pepper m int ,

r oses ,

Spear m int ,

thym e ,

l em on gr ass ,

citr on ella , .

A n d oth er ottos n o t oth er w ise desc r ibed ,

Total essential Oils , or otto s i m po r ted i n o n e

,
1 95 3 46
y ear ,

at th e duty of Is p er pound yi eld a rev enu e an nually

.
,

of £ 976 6
It would app ea r by th e above r eturn that our con
su m ption of otto of cloves was e xc eed ingly s m all ,
wh er e as it is p r obably ten ti m es that am ount T he .

fact is s eve ral O f th e English whol esal e druggists are

,

v e ry lar ge distill ers O f this otto l eaving littl e or no ,

room for the sal e and i m portation O f foreign di still e d

otto O f cloves A gain otto of caraway : th e English
.
,

p r oducti on o f that articl e is quite e qual to th e fore ign ;

also otto of lav end er whi ch is d r awn in this country
, ,

p robably to th e exte nt of 6 000 l bs annually . .

 O TTOS EOR E O M E C ONS U M P TION . 1 81

Th er e w er e al so pass e d through th e C usto m H ous e

fo r ho m e consu m ption in 1 8 5 2 ,

P om atu m s p r ocu r ed by en fleur age m acer ation

, . ,

&c . co m m only call ed F r ench P om atu m s

,
“ ”
,

av er age value o f 6 3 per pound and paying a .

,

duty O f 1 3 per pound valued by th e i m por ter s at

.
,

P erfu m er y not oth er wise desc r ibed ; valu e ,

N u m ber of bottl es of eau d e C ologn e paying a duty ,

o f I s each .
,

R evenu e fr o m e au d e C ologn e m anufactured out of

England say ,
flac o n s at annually .

Th e total r ev en u e d er iv e d fr o m various sou r c es ,

e v e n upon this low scal e of duti es fr o m th e substanc e s ,

“
with which B r itannia p e rfu m es h er pock et hand
”
k e r chi ef cannot b e esti m ated at l ess than
,

annu m This of cou r s e includ e s th e d uty upon

p e r .
, ,

th e spirits u s ed In th e h o m e m anu factu r e O f p e rfum ery .

P r eviously to 1 8 3 2 th e duty on m usk In England was ,

5 3 an ounc e ; in 1 8 42 th e duty O f M an ounc e p r o

. .

d uc e d £ 5 3 showing that 2 1 20 ounc es had b e en ente r ed

,

fo r consu m ption In 1 8 46 it was d ecla re d fr ee O f duty

. .

Th e i m po r t now , 1 8 5 6 is ov e r 3 0 0 0 ounc es , .

L evying an excis e duty upon odo r ous substanc es is

not p eculiar to England fo r it was p r actis ed du ring ,

th e Ro m an E m pi r e G ibbon says Th ere is still

.
,

extant a long b u t i m p erfect catal ogu e of East er n c o m

m o d i ti es which about th e ti m e O f A l exand e r S ev e rus

, , ,

w er e subj e ct to th e pay m en t of duti es— cinna m on ,

”
m y r r h , and a whol e t r ib e O f aro m atics .

T heduty on eau d e C ologn e is now accor ding to th e last ta ri ff , ,

8d pe r
, flac o n of 4 o z o r 20 3 per gallon .
,
. .

16
1 82 TE E ART OE r E REU M E Rr .

SE C TION VI .

PE R FU M ES OF A NI M AL OR I G IN .

IN th e p r evious arti cl es w e have onl y spok en O f th e

O d ors of plants ; w e now e nt e r upon thos e m at e rials

us ed in p erfu m ery O f an ani m al origin T he first .

u nd e r our notic e i s

A M E ERC RIS — This substanc e is found in th e sea

.
,

floati ng n ear the islands O f Su m atra M ol ucca , an d ,

M ad agasca r ; al so O n th e coasts of Am eri ca Braz il , ,

C hina Japan , and th e C oro m and el

,
The w e ste r n .

coast of Ir eland is O fte n found to yi eld l arge pi ec es

of this substanc e The shores o f th e counti es O f
.

S ligo M ayo Ker ry and th e Isl e of A rr an ar e th e

, , , ,

p rincipal plac es wh er e it has b e en found In th e .

”
Philosophical T r ans acti ons th ere is an account O f
a lu m p found on the b each O f th e fi rst m ention e d -

county in th e y ear 1 6 91 which w eigh ed 5 2 o z and

, , .
,

was bought on th e spot fo r £ 2 0 but which afte rwar ds ,

“
w as sold i n L ondon fo r m o r e than £ 1 0 0 ( Philos .

T ran s
”
NO 2 2 7 p
, .
,
W e ar e quite within li m it
.

in stating that m any vol u m es conce r ning th e origi n

O f am b erg r is hav e b ee n w r itten but th e qu esti on ,

r esp ecting it is still at issu e It is found in th e .

sto m achs of the m ost voracious fish es th es e ani m als ,

swallowing at particular ti m es , ev erything th ey hap

,

p e n to m ee t with It has .b ee n particula r ly fou nd in

th e int estin e s O f th e sp er m ac eti whal e , and m ost

1 84 TE E ART OF P E R FU M E R Y .

It is known that th e am b e rgris whal e feeds upon

th e cuttl e fish The snout O f this cr eature is a r m ed
.

with a sharp pointed cu r ved black ho r n exc eedingly

-

har d , tough and ind estr uctibl e

, .

O n b r e aking up good sp e ci m ens of am b ergris I

invariably find p e rfect sp eci m ens of this b eak which ,

app ear to hav e escap ed o r to be incapabl e O f diges

ti on , and ar e thus excrete d togeth er with bi liary
m att er.

It is said by Dr U r e that th e C hin es e try th e genu

.

i n en ess of am b e r gr i s by sc r aping it fi n e upon boiling

te a : it should dissolv e an d di ffus e i ts elf gen er ally .

Dr Thudichu m is at work on a m b ergri s ; w e m ay

.

exp ect th er efor e shortly to b e i n poss ession of all th e

ch em ical qualiti es O f this curious substanc e .

A m od ern co m pil er sp eaking O f a m b erg ri s , says ,

,
“ ”
It s m ells lik e dri e d co w dung Nev er having
-
.

s m ell ed this substanc e, w e cannot say wh eth e r the

si m il e b e co r r ect ; but w e c er tainly consid er that its
p er fu m e is m ost inc redibly ov e r r at ed ; n o r can w e
“
fo rge t that H o m b erg found that a v ess el in which
h e had m ad e a long digestion O f th e hu m a n fsec es
had acqui r ed a v e ry st r ong and p e rfe ct sm ell of am
b ergr is inso m uch that any o n e would hav e tho u ght
,

that a great quantity O f ess e nc e of am b er gr is had

b ee n m ad e in it The p erfu m e (Od or was so strong
.

that th e v ess el w as oblig ed to b e m oved out O f th e

laboratory (M em A cad Paris
”
. . .
,

N ev erth el e ss as a m b er gr is is exte nsiv ely us ed as a

,

p e rfu m e in d e fe r e nc e to thos e who ad m i r e its O do r

, ,

w e pr esu m e that it has to m any an ag r eeabl e s m ell .

L ik e b odi e s O f this kind und ergoing a slow d e c o m

position and po ssessing littl e volatility , it, wh en m ix ed
,
 E SS EN CE or A M E E R C R I S. 1 85

with oth er v ery fl eeting scents gives p e rm an enc e to ,

th e m on th e handk e r chi ef and for this quality the ,

p erfum e r esteem s it m uch .

E S S E N CE OE A M E E RC RI S .

L et it stand fo r a m onth .

It is only k ept fo r m ixing ; wh e n r etail ed it h as to ,

b e sw eet e n e d up to th e public nos e ; it is th e n call ed ,

afte r the Par isian nam e ,

E x T R A IT D ’
A M E RE .

E sp r it d eos e t r ipl e
r
,

E xtr act o f a m ber g r is ,

E ssen ce O f m usk ,

E xtr act o f vanilla ,

This p e rfum e has such a lasting O dor that a hand ,

k erchi ef b eing w ell p erfu m ed with it, will still r etai n

an O do r e ve n afte r it h as b ee n wash ed .

Th e fact is that both m usk and am b er gris contain

,

a substanc e which clings p e r tinaciously to wov e n

fab rics an d not b eing solubl e in w eak alkalin e ly es
, ,

is stil l found upon th e m aterial afte r passing th r ough

th e lavato ry o r d eal .

Powd ere d a m b e rgris is us e d in th e m anu factu r e of

cassol ette s —littl e ivo r y o r bon e box e s p er fo rated
which ar e m ad e to con tain a paste of st r ong s m elling -

substanc es to ca r ry in the pocket o r r eti cul e ; also in

,

th e m aking of p ea u d E sp ag n e o r Spanish skin us e d

’
, ,

fo r p e r fu m ing w r iting pap er and e nv elop es, and which

-

will be d escrib ed h er ea fter .

C I VE T — This s ubstanc e is s ecr et ed by th e e rra

.

*
16
1 86 TE E A RT or p E R r U M E Rr .

Civette , civet cat It is form ed in a la rg e doubl e

or .

glandular r ec eptacl e b etw ee n th e an us and the pud e n

d u m of th e c r eature L ik e m any oth er substa nc es
.

of O ri ental o r igi n , it was fi rst b r ought to th is countr y

by th e Dutch .

T h e Dutch us ed to k eep nu m b e rs of civ e ts aliv e at

Am ste r dam , fo r the purpos e O f coll ecting the p e r fu m e
wh e n s e creted Wh en a su ffi ci e nt ti m e had b een
.

allow ed for th e proc ess , th e ani m al w as put into a

C iv t C
e at.

l on g wood e n cage so na r r ow that it could not tu r n

,

i tsel f r ound T he cage b eing op en e d by a doo r

.

b ehind a s m al l spatula or sp o on w as intr oduc e d

, , ,

th r ough the orific e of th e pouch , which was ca refully

sc r ap ed and its conte nts put into a v ess el This
, .

op eration w as p erfo rm e d twic e o r thri c e a w e ek ;

about a d r ach m at a ti m e is th us O btain ed and th e ,

a n i m al w as said to produc e m o r e civ e t wh e n i r r itate d .

The quan tity d ep e n d e d chi efly on th e quality O f th e

n ou r ish m e nt it took and th e app etite with w h ich it
,

ate . In confin em ent i ts favo r ite food w as boil ed m eat ,

eggs bi r ds and s m all ani m als and particu l a r ly fi sh

, ,
.
,

A good d e al of th e civ et now b r Ought to Eu r op e an

1 88 m s aar or P aa r u m s av .

But wh en diluted to an infinit esi m al portion its p er ,

fu m e is ag r eeabl e It is di fficul t to asc e rtain th e

.

reason why th e sa m e substan ce m od ifi e d only by th e ,

quantity of m atter pres ented to th e nose , should p r o

duc e an opp o si te effect on th e ol factory n er ve ; but
such is th e cas e with n early all odo r ous bodi es esp e ,

c i al ly with ottos which if s m ell ed at ar e far fro m

, , ,

nic e and i n so
,
m e e i e —
cas s posit v ly nasty s uc h as otto
of n er oli , otto of thym e otto of patchouly but if di
,

lute d with a thousan d ti m es its volu m e of oil , spirit ,

&c th e n th ei r fr agranc e is d e lightful
.
, .

O tto of r os e to m any has a sickly odo r but wh en ,

e li m inat e d in th e h o m d m p athi c quantiti es which ri s e

fro m a singl e r os e bloo m , who is it that will not ad

-

”
m i t that th e ros e is sw eet ! The odor of civ e t is
b est i m parted not by actual contact, but by b eing
,

placed in th e n eighbo r hood of absorb ent m aterials .

Thus wh e n sp read u pon l eath er and plac e d in a

, ,

wr iti ng d esk i t p er fu m es th e pap er and en velop es d e

-

li ghtfully so m uch so that th ey r etain the odo r after

,
“ ”
passing through th e post V al e ntin es .ar e thus

scent ed .

E x r aaor or C I V E T is p r epa r e d by r ubbing in a m o r

ta r o n e ounce o f civ et with an ounc e of o rri s r oot
,
-

powd er or any oth er si m ilar m ate rial that wi l l assist

,

to break up o r divid e th e civ et ; and th e n placing th e

whol e into a gallon of r ectifi ed spi r its ; after m ac er
ating for a m onth it is fi t to st rain o ff It is p r in
, .

”
c i p al ly us e d as a fixing ing redi e nt i n m ixing es ,

but failing in th e ab st r us e ch em ical knowl ed ge which distingu i sh e d

th e Italians th ey us ed a p r epa r ation of m y r tl e l eav es that quickly
, ,

e vapo r ated o n e xposu re to th e ai r Cham ber s s Jo ur nal ’ ’

-
. .
 c a sr o x —m u sx. 189

sen c es of d elicate odor Th e F r ench p e rfu m ers u se

.

th e e xtr act of civ et m o r e th an th e English m an u fac

tur ers w h o s eem to p r efer extr ac t of m usk
,
F ro m .

a quart e r of a pint to hal f a pint is th e utm ost that

ought to b e m ix ed with a gallon of any oth er p e rfu m e .

Gas m a n — This is a s ecr etion of th e Castor Fiber or ,

B e ave r v ery si m ila r in m any of i ts character s to civet ,

,

though in odor quite dissi m ila r So long as p erfu m er s .

can o btaip m usk o r civ et th ey ar e not lik ely to e m ,

ploy castor but n e v e r th el ess it h as qual iti es that r ec

, , ,

o m m en d it in so m e i ns tanc e s e sp e cially that on th e ,

sco r e of econo m y .

C asto r is i m porte d fr o m C anada and th e t err itori es

of th e H udson s Bay C o m pany It is contain ed in
’
.

s m all p ear shap ed m em b r anous sacs gen e rally hard

-

, ,

and b r ittl e in this count ry b ut is said to b e so ft and ,

pasty wh en take n fr o m th e ani m al .

In a d ry stat e casto r has but littl e odor (in this r e

sp ect r es em bl es a m b er gris ) but wh e n infus ed in spi rit,

its sc ent is d ev elop ed in a rem arkabl e d egree .

Two ou nc es of castor in o n e gallon of spi r it w il l

m ak e a standar d ext r act ; but , lik e m usk and cive t,

if m o r e than a qua r ter of a pint of this ext r act b e

m ix e d with a gallon of any oth e r sc e nt its character ,

i sti c odo r b e co m e s evid e nt abov e th e oth ers P er .

fu m es containing i t last w ell on th e han dk er chi ef, but

th e re ar e v ery few p ersons that consid e r it nic e .

M ass .

”—
“ 80 sw eetly all , m usk . Mm y
'
Wi ves , ii , 2 .

0
This ext r aordinary substanc e lik e civet is an ani , ,

m al s e c r etion ; it is contain e d i n e xc r eto r y follicl e s

about th e nav el of th e m al e ani m al In th e p erfu m e ry .

1 90 m s ART or P s n r u m s av .

trad e th e s e littl e bags ar e call ed pods and as i m ,

”
ported it is call ed pod m usk Wh e n th e m usk is
.

s eparat ed fr o m th e skin or sac in which it is contain ed

”
it i s the n call ed grain m usk .

M sk p
u -
o d , ac ut al si ze .

The m usk deer (M oschus m oschatus)is an inhabitant

-

of th e gr e at m ountai n r ange which b elts th e north of

India and b r anch es out into Sib er ia , Thib et, and
,

C hina It is also found in th e Al taic range n ear

.
,

L ak e Baikal and in so m e oth e r m ountain r ang es but

, ,

always o n the bo r d ers of th e lin e of p e r p e tual snow .

It is fr o m th e m al e ani m al o n ly that th e m usk is oh

tai n ed .

It fo rm er ly was h eld in high r epute as a m edicin e ,

and is sti l l so am ong East er n nations It w i l l b e r e .

m em b er ed that th e n ewspap e r par agraphs told us that

th e l ast dos e which th e E m p er o r Nicholas of Russia

swallowe d b efo r e his d eath was a potion of m usk .

T h e m usk fr o m Boutan Tonquin and Thib et is

, , ,

m ost e ste em e d ; that fr o m B e ngal is infer io r and fr o m ,

Russia is of stil l lowe r quality T he str ength and th e

.
1 92 r ue s ar or r an r u m s ar .

and erect Th e m al e has a tas k depending fr om each upper jaw

.
,

which in a ful l g r own ani m al is about th r ee inch es long the thick

,
-

, ,

n ess o f a goose quill sha r p pointe d and cu r ving slightly backwar ds

-

,
-
, .

Th e gen er al c olo r is a da r k speckled b r o w nish g r ay d ee pe ning to -

n ear ly bl ack on th e hind quar ters wh er e it is edged down the -

,

inside o f th e thighs with red dish yellow The th r oat belly an d -

.
, ,

l egs ar e o f a lighter gr ay Legs long an d sl ender ; to es long and .

pointed ; the hind h eels are long and rest on the g r ound as wel l as ,

th e toes T h e fur is c o m posed of thick s pi r al hair s not unlik e

.
,

m iniatur e po r cupin e quills th ey are v ery b r ittl e br eaking wi th a

-
,

slight pull and so thickly set that nu m ber s m ay be pull ed out with
, ,

o u t alt er ing th e outwa r d app ea r ance o f th e fur It is white fr om .

th e r oots to n ear ly the ti ps wh er e it gr adually be co m es da r k Th e

, .

fu r is m uch longer and thick er on th e hind pa r ts than th e fo re and ,

gi v es th e ani m al the appea r ance o f be ing m uch la rger in th e hind

qua r te r s than th e shoulder T he tail which is n o t seen unl ess th e .
,

fu r is par ted is an i nch long and about th e thickn ess of a thu m b ;

, ,

i n fem al es and young ani m als it i s cov er ed with hai r b ut i n adult ,

m al es is quite nak ed e xce pt a slight tuft at th e e n d ; and o fte n

,

c ov er ed as w ell as all th e pa r ts n ear it with a y ello w ish waxy sub

, ,

stan ce .

Th e m usk which is m uch bette r kno w n than th e d eer its elf is

, ,

only found in adult m al es ; th e fem al es hav e non e n eith er has any ,

po r tion o f th ei r bodi es th e slightest odo r of m usk The dung of the .

m al es s m el l s n ea r ly as st r ong as m usk but si ngul ar ly e nough , , ,

n eith er i n the conte nts o f th e stom ach n o r bladder n o r in any , ,

oth er pa r t of th e body is th er e an y p er ceptible scent of m usk The

,
.

pod which is pl ace d n ear the nav el an d between th e fl esh and th e

, ,

skin is co m pos ed of sev er al lay er s of thin skin in which th e m u k

, ,
s

is confin ed and h as m uch the appear anc e o f the c r aw o r sto m ac h of

,

a par t r idge o r oth er s m all gallinaceous bi rd wh e n full of food

, , .

Th er e is an o r ifice outwa rds th r ough th e skin into which by a , ,

slight p r essu r e th e littl e finger w il l pass but it has no conn ection

, ,

whatever wi th th e body It is p r oba bl e that m usk i s at ti m es dis

.

char ged th r ough this o r ific e as the pod is o fte n fou n d not half full , ,

and so ti s n a ly void
m e m e e r *
.

F r o this o r ifice the d eal er s ext act th e g ain m usk and th n

m r r ,
e

in ser t in i ts plac th e pi ec es of l ead b rass capper ski n d i ed blood

e , , , ,
r ,

clay and oth er adulterations ge n er ally found in th e pods wh en

,

O pe n ed i n E ngland and fr o m th e si ze of th ese o r ific es it can be

,

p r etty fai r ly j udged ho w th pod s h av

e e b een ta m p r d with
e e —S P . . .
 m s m u sk .
D EER . 1 98

Th e m usk its elf is in gr ains from th e si ze of a s m all b ull et to ,

s m all shot o f ir r egula r shap e but ge n er ally r ound o r oblong to

, , ,

g eth er with m o r e o r l ess in coa r s e powder Wh en fr esh it is of a .

da r k r eddish br own colo r but wh e n tak en o u t of th e pod and k ept

-
, ,

fo r any l engt h of ti m e beco m es n ea r ly black ,In autu m n and .

winter th e gr ains ar e fi r m ha r d and n ear ly d ry but in su m m er, , ,

th ey becom e da m p and soft p r obably fr om th e gr ee n food the ani,

m als th en eat It is form ed with the ani m al as th e pod of a young

.
,

o n e tak en out o f th e wo m b is plainly distinguishab l e and ind eed

, , ,

is m uch l ar ger i n p r opor tion than i n gr own up ani m als Fo r two -

.

year s th e contents of the pod r em ai n a so ft m ilky substan ce with a ,

disagr eeabl e s m ell Wh en it fi r st becom es m usk th er e is not m uc h

.

m o re than th e eighth o f an ounce ; as th e ani m al g r ows it inc r eases

i n quantity an d in so m e individ ua l s as m uch as two ounc es is found

, .

A n ounc e m ay be co nside r ed as the av er ag e fr o m a full g r own an i -

m al ; b ut as m any o f th e d ee r are kill ed young th e pods i n th e ,

m a r k et do not pe r ha ps contain on an av er age m o r e than half an , ,

ounce T hough not so st r ong th e m usk o f young ani m als has a

.
,

m uch pl easan ter s m ell than that of old on es ; but di fference o f food ,

cli m ate o r situation as far as m y expe r i enc e goes d oes not at all
, , ,

affec t th e quality .

Fr o m th e fi r st high r idge abov e th e plains to the li m its of fo rest ,

o n the snowy r ange and fo r per haps th e whol e l ength o f th e chai n

,

o f th e H i m alayas th e m usk d eer m ay be found upon e v e r y hill of

-

an el evation abov e 8 000 feet which is cloth ed with fo r est O n th e, .

lower r anges it is com pa r ativ ely a r a r e ani m al being confined to ,

n ear th e su m m its o f the high est b i l l s as we app r oac h the colder ,

for ests n ea r th e snow ; but it is nowh er e par ticula r ly nu m er ous ; and

its r eti re d and solitar y habits m ak e it app ea r still m o r e r ar e than
it r eally is E xcl usiv ely a for est ani m al it i nhabits all kinds o f
.
,

fo r est indisc r i m inately fr o m the oaks of th e low er hills to th e

,

stunted bush es n ear the li m its of v eg etation If we m ay j udge fr om .

th ei r nu m be rs th e p r efe re nc e s eem s to be give n to the bi r ch forests

, ,

wh ere th e under wo od consists chi e fly o f the White r hododend r on

and j unipe r .

In m any r espects th ey ar e not u n lik e har es in habits and econo m y .

E ach individual sel ects so m e pa r ticula r spot fo r its favo r ite r etr e at ,

about which it r em ai ns still and at r es t th r ou ghout the day l eaving ,

it in th e ev ening to s ea r ch fo r fo od o r to wand er a bout r eturn in g , ,

soon a fte r daylight Th ey will occasionally r est f r the day i n any

. o

place wh er e th ey m ay happen to be in th e m or n ing but i n genera l ,

17
 1 94 m s: a a r '
or r s n r um s av .

th ey r etu r n to n ear th e sam e spo t al m ost ev er y day m aking fo rm s ,

in di ffer ent quar ters o f th eir r etr eat a littl e distance fr om eac h oth er ,

and visiting th em in tur n So m eti m es th ey w i ll li e under th e sam e

.

tr ee o r bush fo r w eeks togeth er Th ey m ake fo rm s in th e sa m e .

m ann er as har es l ev elling with th ei r fee t a spot lar g e e nough fo r

,

th e pu r pose if the gr ound is to o sloping Th ey se ldom if ev er l i e .

, ,

in th e sun e ve n i n th e coldest w eath er and th eir for m s are always

, ,

m ad e wh er e th er e is so m e thin g to sh elte r th em fr o m its r ays T o .

war ds e v ening th ey begin to m ov e and dur ing th e n ight appear to ,

wander about a good d eal fr om to p to botto m of th e h ill or fr o m

, ,

o n e sid e to anoth er In th e day th ey ar e s eldom seen m oving abo ut

. .

Th ei r noctu r nal r am b l es are appar ently as m uch fo r r ec r eation as in

sea r ch o f food as th ey ofte n visit r egula r ly so m e st ee p l ed g e o f r ock
,

o r pr ecipice wh er e th ere is littl e o r n o v eg e tati on

, Th e P uhar r i es .

beli ev e that th ey co m e to such places to play an d dance with each

oth er and ofte n set th eir snar es along th e edge o f such a ledge or
,

pr ecipice in pr efer e nc e to th e for est

, .

If n o t walking l e isu r ely an d slowly along th e m usk d eer always ,

-

goes in bounds all fou r s l eaving and alighting on the g r ound to

,

geth er Wh en at full speed th es e bounds ar e so m eti m es astonish

.
,

i ng fo r so s m all an ani m al O n a gentl e sIOpe I hav e seen them .

cl ear a space o f m ore than sixty fee t at a singl e bound fo r se v er al ,

succ essiv e l ea ps and spr ing ov er bush es of consider abl e h eight at

,

th e sa m e ti m e Th ey ar e v er y su r e footed and although a for est

.
-

ani m al in t r av elling ov er r ocky and p recipitous gr ound have pe r

, ,

haps no equal Wh ere ev en th e bu r r ell is obliged to m ove slowly

.

an d ca r efully th e m usk d eer boun ds quickly and fear l essly ; and

,
-

although I hav e often d r iv en th em on to r ocks which I thought it

i m possi bl e th ey could c r oss th ey hav e inva riably found a way in ,

som e di r ection and I n ever kn e w an instance of o n e m issing its

,

footi ng o r falling unl ess wounded

, , .

Th ey eat but littl e co m par ed with oth er r u m inating ani m als at

l east on e would i m agin e so fr o m th e s m all quantity found in th ei r
sto m achs the c onte nts of which ar e always in such a pulpy state
,

that it is i m possibl e to tell what fo od th ey pr efer I hav e often .

shot th em whilst feeding and found in th e m outh o r thr oat va r i

,

o us ki nds of sh r u bs o r g r ass es and o fte n th e long white m oss that ,

han gs so luxu r iantly fr o m th e tr ees in the high er for es ts B oots .

al so seem to for m a po r tion o f th ei r food as th ey scr atch hol es in ,

th e g r ound lik e m any o f th e hill ph easan ts

, Th e P uh ar r i es be .

i
l v e e that th e m al es kill and ea t snak es an d feed upon th e l eav es ,
1 96 r un ru n or r s n r u m a a v.

back an d tightens th e sna r e r ound th e anim al s l eg B esides the '

.

m usk d ee r nu m ber s of th e fo res t ph ea sants m oo n al s c o r kl ass and

-
, , , ,

a r gus ar e caught in th ese sna res ; th ey are visited ev er y thi rd o r

fou r th day and it is s eldom that the own er s r etu r n wi thout so m e
,

thing o r oth er T he pol ecats ofte n find out th e snar es and afte r
.
, ,

once tasting th e feast if n o t d estr oy ed soon beco m e a te r r ibl e an

, ,

n oyan ce t r acing th e fenc e al m o st daily fr om

, en d to e n d and se i z ,

ing o n ev erything caught ; th ey ar e ofte n caught th em s elv es but ,

i m m ediately bite the snare in two and escape M usk d eer ar e fr s .

-

qu ently lost to th e snar er s in th is m an n er fo r wh en o n e is eate n ,

by th e pol eca ts the p d is to r n to pi ece s and th e contents scatter ed

,
o ,

o n th e gr ound N o ani m al swallows the m usk and wh en a d eer

.
,

has bee n kill ed and eaten by a l eopar d o r oth er ani m al if the ,

g r ound be ca r efully exa m ined m uch of th e m usk m ay be pick ed

,

up I n s ects and m aggots also l eav e it untouch ed * I on ce found

. .

what I thought was a n ewly kill ed m usk d eer but on exa m ination -

I di scover ed it was m erely th e skin and sk el e ton o f o n e which ,

fr o m its dr y and with er ed state m ust hav e bee n dead so m e m onths

th e fl esh h ad be e n co m p l e tely ea te n away by m aggots but th e m usk ,

pod was e nti r e .

Th e m usk pods which r each th e m a r k et th r ough th e hands of

-

th e n ativ e hunt er s ar e g en er ally inclos ed i n a po r tion o f th e skin

o f th e ani m al with th e hai r o r fur l e ft on it
, Wh en th ey have .

kill ed a m usk d eer th ey cut r ound th e pod and skin th e whol e of

-

, ,

th e belly T he pod c o m es o ff attach e d to the skin which is th e n

.
,

laid with its fl eshy sid e on a flat ston e p r eviously h eated i n th e

fi r e and thus d ri ed without singeing th e hai r
, T h e skin sh r inks .

up fr om th e h eat into a s m all co m pass and is th en ti ed or stitch ed ,

r ound th e pod and hung up in a d r y plac e until quite ha r d

, This .

is the gen e r al m ethod of p r epar ing th em but so m e put the pod ,

into hot oil instead o f layi n g it on a hot ston e but eith er m ethod ,

H aving to
do with m usk for m or e than tw enty fi v e year s I -
,

n ev er but on ce saw a living thing in it ; how ev er in M ay 1 86 1 I , , ,

pu r chas ed six caddi es of m usk th ey w er e exam in ed and appear ed

to be all r i ght : in th e following A ugu st o n O peni n g o n e o f th es e ,

caddi es I was su r p r ised to find ev er y pod of m usk per for ated with
,

m aggot hol es and o n op ening th e pods white m aggots all aliv e

-
, , ,

and fat w er e found in endl ess nu m ber s enjoying th ei r banqu et—a

,

food which h ad co st m e 60 3 an ounce A s th e c reatu r e was n ew to

. .

m e I call ed it the M u sk Gr a d —S P
,
. .
 r an m u ss -
D an a . 1 97

m ust d eter ior ate th e quality of the m usk as it ge ts eith er co m ,

l ete l bak e d o r fr i ed It is b es t b oth in app ear an c e and s m ell if

p y .
, ,

th e pod is at onc e cut fr o m th e skin and allo wed to d r y O f its e l f ,

.

Th e m usk r ec eiv ed fr om th e P uh ar r i es is gr eatly adulterated ,

and pods ar e o fte n m ade altogeth er counter fe it ; and as th ey ar e

ge n er ally sold with o ut be ing cut O pen it is sca r c ely possibl e to ,

d etect th e i m postu r e at th e ti m e I hav e Ofte n s ee n pods offer ed .

fo r sal e which w er e m er ely a pi ec e of m usk d eer skin fill ed with -

so m e substanc e an d ti ed up to r esem bl e a m usk po d with a littl e

,
-
,

m usk r ubbe d ov er to m ak e it s m ell T h ese ar e e asy to d etect fr o m .

,

th er e being no nav el on the skin it being cut fr om any pa r t of th e ,

body B ut th e m usk is som eti m es tak en out of r eal pods and its
.
,

plac e suppli ed by so m e oth er sub stanc e and th ese ar e di ffi cult to ,

d etect ev e n if cut ope n as whatev er is put i n is m ad e to r es em ble,

m usk i n app ea r ance and a littl e g enuin e added m akes it s m el l

,

n ea r ly as str ong S om e hav e o n ly a po r tion of th e m usk tak en

.

o u t and its plac e th us suppli ed ; and oth er s hav e al l th e m usk l eft

,

in but so m ething add ed to inc rease th e w eight E v en in the hills

, .

wh er e it is p r odu ced so littl e do the g en er ality of th e peopl e know

,

o f m usk that I hav e oft e n s ee n th e P uh ar r i es about G a

, go u t i e n r

s ell to pilgr i m s to m en fr om th e lower hills and ev en to th ei r o w n

, ,

n eigh bo r s sm all po r tions of what th ey call ed m usk b ut what was

, ,

m er ely so m e su bstanc e r es em bling it with a littl e g e nuin e m usk ,

sc atter ed ov er it O f this stu ff th ey would s ell about a qua r ter of a

.

to lah fo r a r up ee o r about tw e nty shillings an ounce

, .

Th e substanc es co m m only us ed fo r adulter atio n o r to fill th e

counter feit pod s ar e blood boil ed o r bak ed on th e fi r e th en dr i ed
, , , ,

b eaten to powder kn ead ed into a paste and m ade into g rains and
, ,

coar se powder to resem bl e g enuin e m usk ; a pi ec e o f the liv er o r

spl een p repa r ed i n the sa m e m ann er ; dr i ed gall and a par ticu l a r ,

pa r t of th e ba r k of th e ap r icot t ree pound ed and kn eaded as a bov e -

, .

The d r i ed past e fr o m which co m m on oil has been e xtr ac ted call ed ,

pe e n a
”
is also used and lu m ps of this ar e often without fu r th er
, , ,

p r epar ation t hr ust into a pod th r ough th e o r ifice in th e skin to

, ,

increas e the w eight S m eti m es n o c ar s is take n to give the m a

. o

t er is l e m ploy ed i n filling a counterfeit p od e v e n th e app ea r an c e f O

m usk A g entl em an once show ed m e a pod h e had bought fr o m a

.

P uh ar r i e at M i sso ur i e : o n m y telling h i m it was counter fe it h e ,

cut it ope n and found it fill ed with hookah to b acco

, .
*

C ol . F ed M a r kham s ( C
r .
’
. B .
) J ou r nal of S po ting A dv entu es r r

and T r av el in C hin es e Ta r ta r y and Thibet .

*
17
1 98 r es am : or r s ar u m s ar .

M y fri end M r F P eaks, of th e fi rm P eak s, A ll e n

. .

Co, of U.m balla , and Albion Plac e L ond on whos e , ,

long r esid ence in the no r th of India has give n hi m ,

fo r a Europ ean , un u sual opportuniti es of asc ertain

ing facts r elating to th e M usk de e r has r ec ently s e nt -

a stuffed sp eci m en of th e ani m al to th e M us eu m of

th e Pha r m ac e utical S oci ety He al so r ead th e fol .

lowing pap e r b efo r e a m eeti n g of that body and ,

which h e h as ki ndly p e rm itte d m e to r ep r oduc e ,

togeth er w ith a sk etch of th e ani m al .

Th e speci m n p r ob ably will ser v e to cl ear u p m an y points r el ativ e

e

to th e quality and app ear ance of m usk and to e xplain th e differ ence
,

and cause of th er e being so m any var i ti es and qualiti es in the m a r k et

e .

T h e d eer is about th e si z e of a gr eyhound and fr o m th e l ength , ,

of its tusks it is no doubt fi v e o r six y ear s of age o r per haps m o r e

, , .

Its br own stubby coat m o re r esem bl es s m all po r cupin e quills than

hai r and ev er y part of th e an i m al has a str ong Od or of m usk Th e
,
.

h ead l egs fee t and gen er al outlin e ar e thos e o f th e com m on deer ;

, , , ,

but i n its h abits it m or e r esem bl es th e hare sel ecti ng a solitar y ,

place o r for m se par ate fr om its speci es It is som eti m es foun d i n .

th e lower r anges of th e m ountains at an el evation of 700 0 to 8000

,

feet It is an inhab itant of th e fo rest but par tial to w oody r avin es

.
, ,

and is co m m on only on th e spu r s o r p r oj ecting points j utting fr om

the et er nal snowy r an ges at an altitud e o f fr o m
, to
feet.
200 wa s s aw o r r s a r u u an v .

sto n e pr essi ng it and closi n g it wi th consid erabl e for ce till th e po d

,

i s quite d r y If this was n o t don e putr efaction would e nsu e

.
, ,

which though only of th e skin would n o t i m prove the m usk

, ,
.

I sent both kinds ho m e to asce r tain which was best and that , ,

i n th e pods without the hai r y skin was d ecla red to be far supe r ior .

A l l cam e fr o m th e sa m e place an d fr o m ani m als kill ed th e sam e

,

s eason ”
.

In a l etter of a form er year h e states

“ I s end you an account o f the se aso n s p r oduc e vi z 120 pods
’
,
.
, ,

which w eigh about 1 1 0 to 1 20 ounc es o r m ore as th ey are la rge , .

T he s m all on es being n ea r ly all skin I thought it advisabl e to l e t ,

th e nativ es hav e th em to d r ess in th ei r way and to s ell to nativ es ”

.

The m usk pod fa m ilia r to us al l is this m e m b r ano us bladd er cut ,

fro m th e d eer wi th a po r tio n of the outer skin ; it is p r essed and

stitch ed up and d r i ed on a hot stone B y this continu ed h eat m uch
,
.

o f its odo r is d r iv en O E and it is cons equ ently d ep r iv ed of i ts qua i

, l
ti es as a rem edial agent and fo r th e use of th e per fu m er g r eatly
,

deter ior ated A large quantity of m usk c oll ected by natives whic h
.
,

is invar iably falsifi ed finds its way to this and oth er countr i s
,
e .

Th ey cut th young po ds containing no m usk at all as be fo re m en

e ,

ti on ed and fill th e m with th e liv er and blood of th e ani m al m ix ed

, ,

with this y ellow fluid and a sm all po r tion of genuin e m usk fill and , ,

se w th e m up in the skin and d ry on th e hot stove ; o r thos e which

,

yi eld half a d r ac h m to a d r ac h m th ey m i x and d r y i n like m anner .

A t o n e o f the Go v er n ent sal es i n India of p r es e nts giv e n b y

m

n ativ e p r inc es th er e w er e m any pods of m usk to app ea r ance v er y

, ,

fi n e which p r ov ed to be n ea r ly wo r thl ess ; th ey had e vid e ntly bee n

,
“ m ad e up ” an d fr o m long k eeping the littl e r ea l m usk th ey co n
,

tai n ed h ad consid er ably evapo r ated .

It would be a d i fii c u l t m atte r fo r a nativ e to r esi st the tem pts

tion of not m aking so m e addition even to th e fin est pods o r o f ,

e xtr acting a po r tion and filling it up with th e m i xtu r e of blood

and liver .

T he inter io r of th e H i m alayas wh er e th e supply is o b tai n ed is

towa rds Lad ak Thi be t and C hinese Tar ta r y and as th es e m oun
, , , ,

tains extend ov e r so m any thousand m il es it is pr obabl e that th e ,

m usks known as C hina N s an ] and oth e r m usks and p er haps so m e

p , , ,

R ussian ar e fr o m th e sam e dist r icts

, T he Tar tar tr ibes wander .

fr o m place to plac e bar te r ing with th e natives of th es e sev er al

,

countr i es who hav e access to th es e r egions H ence th e m usk would .

 m u ss. 20 1

be fr om th e sa m e speci es th e di ffer enc e in app ear ance being caused

,

by i ts va r ying age and m od e of pr epar ing and d rying .

Th e ge nuin en ess of m usk d ep e nds on th e hon esty of th e nativ es

and oth er s who pr ocu r e and dispos e of it to th e var ious m a r k ets .

T h e m usk i n th e m em b r anous bladder yi elds n e a r ly dou b l e th e

quantity of gr ain m usk to an equal w eight of m usk with the ski n
and hair .

It is a fashion of th e p r es e nt day for p eopl e to say

“ ”
that th ey do not like m usk ; but n everth el ess , ,

fr o m gr eat exp er i enc e in o n e of th e la rgest m anu

fac turi n g p er fum ato r i es i n Eu r op e I a m of opinion ,

that th e public taste fo r m usk is as g r eat as any p er

fu m er d esi r es Thos e substanc es containing it always
.

tak e th e p r e fer e nc e i n r eady sal e— so l o ng as th e

v endo r tak es ca r e to assu r e his custo m er that th er e
”
is no m usk in it .

Th e E m press Jos ephin e w as v e ry fond of p e rfu m e ,

and abov e all of m usk H er d r essi n g r oo m was fill e d

, , .
-

’
with it i n spite of Napol eon s fr equ ent rem onstr anc es
,
.

Forty years h av e elaps ed sinc e h er d eath and the p re s ,

en t own e r of M al m aison h as had th e walls of that

d ressing r oom r ep eated ly wash e d and painted , but

-

n eith er sc r ubbing aquafortis n o r paint , h as b een

, ,

abl e to r em ov e th e s m ell of th e good E m p r ess s ’

m usk which continu es as strong as if th e bottl e

,

which contain ed it had b ee n but y ester day r em ov ed .

T h e p e rfu m e r us e s m u sk princip ally in th e sc en ti n g

of soap sach et powd er and in m ixing fo r liquid p e r
,
-

The j ust r eputation of Pa r is s original

’
fum e ry .

Wind so r soap is d ue i n th e m ain to its d eli ghtfu l

, ,

odor T he soap is doubtl ess of th e fin est quality

.
, , ,

but its p e rfu m e stam ps it am ong th e (Elite— its fra

gr a n c e it ow e s to m usk .

Th e alkalin e r eaction of soap i s favo r abl e to the

20 2 '
rns ART or r s ar o m s ar .

d ev elop m ent of th e od ori ferous pri ncipl e of m usk .

If how ev e r a str ong solution of potass be pou r ed on

, ,

to gr ain m usk am m onia is d ev elop ed instead of th e

,

t r u e m us k s m ell .

Th er e ar e thr ee kinds of m usk co m m on in th e

L ondon m a rk et T h e C AB AB DIE N o r R U SS IAN M o ss
.
,

which is rarely, i f ev e r adulterated ; fro m its poor ,

fragranc e how ever , it do es not fetc h m o r e than 8 3

,
.

an o u nce i n th e pod T he A ss am M uss is n ext i n .

quality ; it is v ery str ong but h as a rank sm ell ; the ,

pods ar e v ery lar ge and i rr egular in shap e ; fetch es

about 243 p er ounc e in th e po d The T ON QU I N or
. .

C H I NE S E M U S K yi e lds th e kind m ostly pri z ed in Eng

land and is m or e adulterate d than th e fo r m er ; m arket
,

pric e, fr o m 2 6 3 to 8 2s p er ou n c e in th e pod
. . .

E x r as or
'
or Musk .

G r ain musk ,

Rec ti fi ed spi r i t ,

A fte r standing for onth , at a su m m er tem p eraon e m

ture , it is fit to d raw o fi S uch an extract is that

‘

which is us ed fo r m ixing i n oth e r p erfum es That .

e xt r act of m usk which is p r epa r e d fo r r e tail sal e is

m ad e thus : and sold und e r th e titl e of

E x r n arr
'
ns M u se .

E xt r act of m usk (as above) ,

am ber gr is ,

r os e t r ipl e ,

M i x and filte r ; i t i s th en fit fo r bottling

'

This p r eparation is sw e eter than pur e ext r ac t of

m usk m ad e acco r ding to o u r fi r st form ula and is also ,

m ore profitabl e to th e v endor It will b e s een h er e .

204 THE AM or a s um s a v .

SE C TION V II .

A M M ON IA —U nd e r . th e
var ious titl es of S m elling
” “ ” “ ” “
Salts , P r esto n Salts In exhaustibl e S alts
, Eau ,
” ”
d e L uc e S al V olatil e a m m onia m ix e d with oth er
, , ,

odo r ifer ous bodi es has b e en v ery ext ensively con

,

su m ed as m aterial fo r g r atifying the olfactory n er ve .

T h e p er fu m er us es L i q A m m fo rtis—that is st r o n g. .
,

liquid am m onia— and th e s esquicar bonate of a m m o

”
n i a fo r p r epa r i n g th e va r ious
,
salts that h e s ells .

Th ese m aterials h e do es no t attem pt to m ake ; in fact ,

it is quite out of his p rovinc e so to do , but h e p r ocu r es

th em ready for his hand th r ough so m e m anufactu r ing
ch em ist The b est p r epar ati on fo r s m elling bottl es
.
-

is what is te rm ed INE XHAU ST IBL E S ALTS , which is pr e

par ed thus
L iquid a m m onia , 1 pint .

Otto of r osem ar y , 1 d r ach m .

E ngl i sh lav ender ,

l d r ach m .

ber gam ot , i dr ach m .

clov es ,
d r ach m .

M i x th e whol e to geth er with agitati on in a v er y st r ong and well

stopper ed bottl e .

This m ixt ur e is us ed by filling th e s m elling bottl e s -

wi th any po r o us abso rb ent m aterial such as asb estos , ,

or , W hat is b etter sponge cuttings that hav e b e en

,

w el l b eaten wash ed and dri ed Th es e cuttings can

, ,
.

b e p r ocu red at a no m inal pric e fr o m any of th e sponge

deal e rs b ei ng the tri m m i ng o r roots of th e Tu r k ey
,
 A M M ON I A . 20 5

sponge which ar e cut o ff b efor e th e m er chants s e nd

,

it in to th e r etail m ark et After th e bottl es ar e fill e d

.

with th e sponge it is tho ro ughly saturated with th e

,

sc e nte d a m m onia but no m o r e is pou r ed in than th e

,

sponge will retain wh e n th e bottl es ar e inv e rted ; as ,

i f by any chanc e th e a m m onia runs out and is spilt

ov er c ertain colored fabri cs it caus es a stain Wh en ,
.

such an accid ent happ en s th e p erson who sold it is ,

invar iably bla m ed .

Wh en th e sponge is satu r at ed prop e rly it will re ,

tain the am m oniacal odo r longer than any oth er m a

te r i al : h enc e w e presu m e bottl es fill ed in this way
,
“
ar e call e d i n exhaustibl e which na m e how ev er ,, ,

th ey do n ot sustain m or e than two o r th r ee m onths

with any credit ; th e warm hand soon dissipates the
am m onia und er any circu m stanc es , and th ey r equi re
to be refill ed .

For tr anspar en t colo r ed bottl es instead of spo n ge , ,

th e p er fu m er s u se what th ey call inso lubl e c rystal

salts (sulphate of potass) T h e bottl e s b eing fi ll ed
.

with c rystals ar e covere d e ith e r with th e liquid am

,

m onia sc e nted as abov e or wi th alcoholic a m m onia

, ,

( alcohol saturat e d with a m m oniacal gas

) T h e n ecks .

of th e bottl es are fill e d with a pi ece of white cotton ;

oth er wis e wh e n inver ted fr om th e non abso rb ent
, ,
-

quality of th e c rystals th e a m m onia r uns out, and

,

caus es co m plaints to b e m ad e T he c rystals ar e pret .

ti e r i n colo r ed b ottl es than th e sponge ; but in plai n

bottl es th e sponge app ear s quit e as handso m e and , ,

as b e for e obs er v ed , it holds th e a m m o n ia b ett e r than

any oth e r m ateri al P erfu m ers s ell also what is call ed

.

W n rr s SM E LLI NG S ALTS and P REST ON SA LT S T h e

, .

White S m elli n g Sal t is the s esquicarbonate of am m o

20 6 THE AM or r s a r u u s ar .

nia i n powder with which is m ix ed any p erfu m ing

,

otto that is thought fi t — lave nd er otto giving , as a ,

gen er al r ul e th e m ost satisfaction

,
.

T h e con tents of a bottl e so fill ed soon los e th ei r

punge ncy , and a n ear ly inodorous residu e r em ain s .

M r A ll chi n s plan is first of all to conv e rt th e s esqui

.
’

c a r bonat e into th e m onocar bo n at e of a m m onia which ,

is accom plish ed in th e following way : Forty ounce s

of s esquicar bonate of am m onia ar e b r ok en into frag
m e nts about th e si z e of fi lb er ts and plac ed in a jar ,

having a w ell fi tti ng lid Into this is after wa rds pou r ed

-
.

tw enty ounc es of liquor a m m onia sp gr This , . .

m ixtu r e is fr equ entl y sti r r ed fo r a w eek and th e jar ,

is th en set asid e in a cool pl ac e fo r th r ee o r fou r m ore

w eeks If th e m ixt u r e is n o t stir re d fo r th e fi rst
.

w eek it sets as ha r d as a ston e ; but after stir ring it ,

b eco m es solid and d ry but can b e easily r em ov ed ,

fr om th e jar It is now reduc ed to a r oughish pow

.

d er so m e thing lik e salt of tarta r an d in that state it

, ,

i s r eady fo r filling th e bottl es and i m proves by keep ,

ing Wh e n pl ac ed in th e bottl es som e volatil e ess enc e

.

o r st r ong a m m onia p er fu m e d with e ss ential oils is

add e d T h e volatil e esse nc e M r A ll chi n us es and

. .

r eco m m ends is th e fi r st giv en in D r R edwood s edition .

’

“ ”
of G ray s Suppl em ent to th e P harm ac 0 p ceia, and
’

is as follows :
E ngl i sh oil of lav end er and ess en c e of m usk , of

each , 4 d r ach m s .

O i l of ber ga m ot , 2 dr ach m s .

clov es , l d r ach m .

O t to of r os es , 1 0 d r ops .

O il of cinna m on , 5 d r ops .

S t r ong est liquor a m m onia , 1 pint .

In th e above way a salt is , m ad e which re tains its

2 08 Ta x ART or P E RF U M E R Y .

S N UFF .

Th ough w e advocat e the prop e r u se of th e ol factory

s ens e y et w e r epudiat e sn u ff ; n everth el ess w e can
, ,

n o t allow this wo r k to go to pr ess without pointing

out the analogy b etw een th e u se of sc ent and the use

o f snu ff By a singular p e rv ersity of hu m an natu re
“

.
,

th e sn u ff tak e r s d e cl a r e al m ost to th e m ajority of

-

o n e that th ey dislik e sc e nt : w e hav e how ev er o n ly

, , ,

to Show that sn u ff is sc ent in a high d egree, and th en

l eav e th e r ead er to d ecid e th e qu e stion .

Two thi r ds of th e sn u ff that is tak en owe s its fra

-

g r an ee to am m onia , th e tobacco l eaf m erely s erving -

as a m ediu m to b ring th e am m onia to th e nos e Th e .

m oist tobacco l e af c e r tainly i m par ts a p eculiar odo r

-

to the snu ff that is m ad e fr o m it but still it i s to the ,

am m onia that it ow es its p eculiar pu n gency In this .

r esp ect th e n w e can on ly co m pa r e th e snu ff box to

, ,
-

th e ladi e s s m elling bottl e ; th ey ar e both m ediu m s

’
-

fo r conv eying a m m onia eith e r plain o r m odifie d by ,

c e rtain oth e r odo r ous bodi es fo r the purpos e o f d i s

gu ising i ts r eal sm ell to the ol factory n e rv e ,
.

Th e r ead e r will n o w see ou r r eason for placing

snu ff i n th e sam e s ection of odo r ifer ous b odi es as ‘

”
s m elling salt .

L ik e e very oth er s u bstanc e that is capabl e o f b eing

m odifi e d by m an th er e ar e sn ufi s in infinite vari ety
'

.
,

T h e plain snu ffs ar e of two kinds : that is , Sco tch

and rapp ee Irish is but a slight m o dific ation of
.

S cotch Th e I r ish and Scotch sn ufi s ar e m ad e fro m

'

th e stalks of th e tobacco l e af which i n truth oth e r -

, , ,

wis e would b e a waste product of cigar m anufactu r e .

Wh en th e tobacco l eaf is b eing m ad e into cigars , th e

-
 SN er r . 20 9

stalks and fib r es ar e cut out of the l eaf oth erwis e it ,

would not roll u p prop erly ; wh en th es e fib r es hav e

accu m u l at e d su ffi ci e ntly , th e snu ff m aking proc e ss is
-

b egun If th e sn u ff is to b e co m e an y of th e high
.

dri e d qualiti e s th e n th e m ate rial h as to b e sent to

,

an ov en and th e r e d r i ed to that ex t e nt r e qui r ed fo r

,

particula r d e no m inations L undyfoot is r em a r kabl e

.

as b eing d r i e d al m ost to th e e xt ent of bu r ning, h e nc e

this favo rit e blackgua r d always h as a bu r n t wood
s m ell ; aft er this proc ess it is s ent to th e snu ff m ills -

to b e ground to titillati n g dust .

T h e I r ish and co m m on Scotch is m ad e e ntirely

fr o m th e stalk of th e tobacco l eaf The best S cotch
.
-
.

contains a portion of th e l e af m ix ed with th e stalk .

The m oist snu ffs are p r epar ed in anoth e r way thus ,

A fter su ffici ent stalks hav e accu m ulated i n th e m an u

facto ry th ey ar e cut up into pi eces of abo ut th e 113 th to
,

g th of an inch in l e ngth and plac ed in a la rg e tr ough

, ,

in lots of fr o m o n e hund r edw eight to doubl e that

qu antity A s th e m at e rial is put in it is tho r oughly
.
,

m oiste n ed with wat e r i n whic h is diss o lv ed fo r so m e ,

vari eti es carbonate of a m m onia an d fo r oth ers

, , ,

m u r iate of a m m onia : in this state it is l eft to fe r m e nt

or rip e n fro m about o n e to two m onths according to ,

th e w eath e r ; i n a fo r tnight o r m o r e afte r this t r eat

“ ”
m e nt th e m ate rial b egins to
,
h eat and i t is n o w ,

that th e futu r e a r o m a o r flavor as th e m ak e rs t e r m

,

it is d ecid ed ; fo r if it b eco m e s too hot the am m onia

, ,

is dissipated , and if not hot enough , th e n the am

m o n i ac al fr ag r anc e is not su ffici e ntly d ev elop ed It .

m ust b e obs er v e d that to bacco in any fo r m wh e n ,

m oist and allow ed to h eat , p r od uces am m o nia fr o m

,
th e
el em ents of its own co m position ; in this r esp ect it is
"
18
 T HE ART OF P E RF U M E RY .

only like oth er v egetabl es containing nit r ogenous

co m pounds ; th e final odo r of th e sn u fi d ep ends on
'

th e p eculiar iti e s of th e var ious tobaccos em ploy ed ,

such as Am erican C uban &c A fter th e fer m enta

, , .

tion is co m pl ete, the m ateri al is s ent to th e m ill to be

gro u nd .

Rapp ee, which m eans littl e l eaf, is consid er ed a

fin e r quality of sn u fl than th e fo r m er and is p re
'

pare d by a si m ilar p r oc ess ; it consists how ev er of , ,

l eaf tob acco and contains littl e or no stalk T h e

, .

am m oniacal s m ell is m uch stronger i n r app e e sn uff

than in oth e rs .

Th ere ar e how ev er , s ev eral oth er kinds of sn u ff

, ,

which fo r th ei r popularity will induc e us to clai m all

who u se th em — and th ey ar e a l egion — as patr ons of
”
th e A rt of P e rfu m ery Th e s e ar e Princ e s M i x
.
’

”
tu re which is a rapp ee sc ented wi th otto of r os e ;
,
”
an d Q uee n s Scotch which is p erfu m ed with b er
’
,

gam ot .

T h e snu ff m ak ers w er e th e fi r st to teach th e p er

-

fu m er s to what an extent the fr agranc e of th e Ton

quin B ean was ad m ired ; eve n now if a p erfu m e r ,

m ak e s a m ixtur e containing Tonquin B e an extr act

in exc ess he is charged wi th m aking his p erfu m ery

,

s m ell lik e sn u ff .

O n e of th e m ost d elightfully sc e nt ed snu ffs , call e d

”
Wal lflow er, is m ad e by M essrs G S G ood es of . . .

Spi tal fi eld s who s e em d e t e rm in ed i n spite of public

, ,

opinion to bring snu ff into fashion as it was in th e

, ,

r eign of G ood Q u ee n An n e .

A c sr rc A C ID AND ITS U SE IN P E RFU M EB Y — T he

.
.

pungency of th e odor of vin egar naturally b r ought

it into th e earli est u se i n the art of P er fu m ery .
212 THE ART or r s a r u u s ar .

co m on funn el and th en to sav e th e r esidu e fro m

m ,

the inte rstic e s of the h er bs by tying th em u p i n a ,

l in en cloth and subj e cting th em to p r essure by

, ,

m eans of an ordinary l em on squ ee z e r or si m ilar ap -

paratus .

V I N AI G RR A LA Ros s .

C once ntr ated ace tic ac id ,

O tto of r oses ,
W ell shak e n togeth er .

It is obvious that vin egar s diffe r e ntly p e rfu m ed

m a b e m ad e i n a si m ila r m ann e r to th e abov e by
y ,

using oth er ottos in plac e of the o tto of ros es A l l .

th es e conc ent rated vin egars ar e u s e d in th e sam e

way as p e rfu m e d am m onia— that is by pou r ing three ,

o r four d r ach m s into an o r na m ental s m elli n g bot

tl e pr eviously fill ed with crystals of sulphate of po t
,

ash which fo rm s th e eel d e vinaig r e of the shops ;

,

o r upon sponge into littl e silv er box es call e d vinai ,

g r e tte s fr o m
,
th e i r F r e nch o r igin Th e u se of th es e .

vin egar s had thei r o r igi n in the p r e su m ption of k e ep

ing thos e who carri e d th em fr o m the effects of i n fec
tions dis eas e doubtl ess springing out of th e story of
,
”
th e
’
fou r thi ev es vin ega r , which is thus rend ered
in L ewis s Disp e nsato r y :
’

It is said that du r ing th e pl agu e at M ar seill es* fou r per sons b y ,

th e use of this p res er vativ e att end ed unhu r t m ultitud es of thos e

,

that w er e affected ; that under the colo r o f th ese se r vices th ey

, ,

r obb ed both th e sick and the de ad ; and that being after wa r ds ap ,

p r eh ended o n e o f th em sav ed hi m sel f fro m th e gallows by disole a

,

ing th e com position of the p r ophylactic 1 which was as follows ,

Toany o n e who tr av els its und r ain ed st r ee ts so m e of which ar e ,

but op en sewers th e wonder is that th er e is not always a plague

,

th ere .

1 A v er y lik ely sto r y .

 P E R FU M E D V I N E c A R s. 21 3

VIN AI O RE S Q U A TR E VO LE UR S , FO U R T H I E VE S '
DES OR

Tak e fr esh tops o f com m on wor m wood Ro m an ,

wo rm wood r os em a r y sage m int and r ue o f

, , , , ,

each ,

L av ender flow er s ,

G ar lic cala m us aro m ati c us cinnam on clov es

, , , ,

and nutm eg each , , 1 dr ach m .

C a m phor , Q o z .

A lcohol o r br andy
, , 1 oz .

S tr ong vin egar , 4 pints .

D i gest all th e m ate r ials ex cept th e cam phor and spi ri t in a close ly
, ,

cov er ed v essel fo r a for tnight at a su m m er h eat ; th en exp r ess and

, ,

filter th e vinaig re p r oduced and add th e cani ph or p r eviously dis

,

solv ed i n th e br andy or Spi r it .

A v e ry si m ilar and quite ctive a preparation as effe

m ay b e m ad e by dissolving the odo r ous principl e of

th e plants indicat ed , in a m ixtu r e of alcohol an d

ac etic acid Such p r epar ations , how ev er , are m o r e
.

within th e p r ovinc e of th e druggist than th e p e r

fu m er Th er e ar e how ev er s ev er al preparations of
.
, ,

vin egar which ar e sold to so m e extent for m ixing

with th e water for lavatory pu rpos es and th e bath ,

th eir v endors end eavoring to plac e th em in co m p e

tition with eau d e C ologn e bu t with littl e avail , .

Am on g th em m ay be enu m er ated

HY G I E NI C O R PRE VE NTI V E VI NE GAR .

B r andy , 1 pint .

O tto of clov es , l dr ach m .

lav ender , 1 d ach m r .

m arjor am , d r ach m .

G u m be n zoin , 1 oz .

M ac er ate th es e tog eth er fo r a fe w hou r s th e n add ,

B r own vin ega r , 2 pints ,

and str ain or filter if requisite to be b r igh t , .

21 4 THE ART OE P ERF U M E RY .

TO IL E T VI NEGAR ( A LA V IO LE TTE ) .

E xt r ac t cassi e
of , pint .

or r is , 1 pint .

E sp r it d e r ose t ri pl e , ,
pint .

White win e vin ega r , 2 pints .

T O I LE T V I NE G AR ( A L A RO S E ) .

D r i ed ose l eav es
r -
, 4 oz .

E sp r it d e r os e t ri pl e , ,
pint .

White wi n e vin ega r , 2 pints .

M acer ate in a close v ess el fo r a for tnight th en

,
fil ter and bottl e
for sal e.

VI NAI GE E DE CO LO G NE .

To eau d e C ologn e, 1 pint .

A dd str ong ac eti c acid , o z.

PI E S SE L U RIN
’
S C O S M E TI C V I NE O A E .

S pi r it , 1 q ua r t .

G u m ben zoin , 8 oz .

C onc ent r ated ar o m atic vin ega r , 1 oz .

B alsa m P er u , 1 oz .

O tto n er oli ,

nutm eg , d r ach m .

This is o n e of th e b est that is m ad e .

Without unn ec essarily r ep eating si m ila r fo r m ul ae ,

it wil l b e ob vious to th e r ead e r that vin egar of any

flow er m ay be pr epar e d in a si m ilar way to thos e
above notic ed ; thus for vinaigre a la j as m in or for , ,

vinaigr e a la fleur d orange w e hav e only to su hati ’

,

tute th e esprit d e jasm i n , o r the esp r it d e fleu r d o r ange ’

,

i n plac e of th e eau d e C ologn e to p r oduce orange ,

flo w e r o r j as m i n vin egars ; how ev e r th es e latte r ar ,

'

ti c l e s are not i n d em and , and o u r only r eason fo r ex

plaining h o w such p r eparations m ay be m ad e is i n ,

o rd er to suggest th e m e thods of p roc ed ur e to any o n e

21 6 THE A RT or PE R F U M E RY .

SEC TION V III .

B O UQU ETS AN D N OS E G AYS .

S ee ,fr om br ight r egions bo r n e o n o dor ous gal es

, ,

Th e swallow h er ald o f the su m m er sails ;

, ,

B reath e ge ntl e ai r l Fr o m ch er ub li ps i m par t

T h y bal m y influ en ce to m y an gui sh d h ear t ; ’

Thou whose soft voic e calls for th the te nder bloo m s ,

Whos e pencil pain ts th em and whose b reath p er fu m es ;

,

0 m ay each bud that d ecks th e b r ow of S p r ing

S h ed all its inc ense o n thy wafting wing .
"

IN th e p r evious ar ticl es w e hav e e nd eavored to ex

plain the m od e of p r epa r ing th e pri m itiv e p erfu m es
th e original odo r s of plants It wil l hav e b een o h
.

s e r ved , that whil e th e m ajo r ity ean be obtain ed und e r

th e fo rm of otto o r e ss e n tial oil th er e ar e oth e rs which
,

hith e rto hav e n ot b een isolated , but exist only in SO

l uti o n in alcohol , o r in a fatty body O f the latt e r .

ar e includ e d all that ar e m ost pri z ed with th e ex c ep ,

tion of otto of r os e— that dia m ond a m ong th e od o r

ifer o u s gem s P r actically w e hav e no esse ntial oils
.

o r ottos of Jas m in e V anilla , A cacia Tub er os e C as

, , ,

si e S ri n e , Viol ets and oth e r s What w e know of

, y g , .

th ese odo r s is d eriv ed fr o m esp rits obtain e d fro m oils

o r fa ts i n which th e s e v er al flow e rs hav e b ee n r ep eat

e d ly infus ed and afte r wards i nfusing such fats o r oils

,

i n alcohol . U ndoubtedly , th es e O do r s ar e th e m ost

gen er ally pl easing whil e thos e m ad e fr o m th e esse n
,

tial oils (i e , otto) dissolv ed in Spi rit ar e of a S econ

. .
 O T T O— TE E O D ORO U S P R I N C I P L E . 21 7

dary charact e r Th e si m pl e odors wh e n isolated are

.
, ,

cal l e d E SS E NT IAL O IL S o r O TT OS ; wh en disso lve d o r

,

existi n g in sol uti on i n alcohol by th e English th ey ,

ar e ter m e d E SS EN C E S and by th e Fr ench EXT RAIT S ,

, ,

or E S P RITS ; a fe w exc eptions p r ov e this rul e E s .

se n ti al oil of orang e p eel and of l e m on p eel , ar e fr e

-

,
-

”
qu ently term ed i n the trad e Ess e nc e of o r ange and
”
Ess enc e of l em ons inst ead of ess e ntial oil o r otto
,

of l em ons &c T he s o on e r th e corr ect no m e nclatu r e

, .

is us ed in p erfu m ery as w el l as in the alli e d arts , th e

,

b e tte r , and the few er blund ers will h e m ad e in th e

disp e n sato ry It app ears to th e w r iter , that if th e
.

no m enclatu r e of th ese substan c es w er e r evi sed it ,

would b e ser vic eabl e ; an d h e would suggest that as ,

a significant b ri ef and c o m p r eh ensive t erm O tto b e

, , ,

us ed as a p r efix to d enote that such an d such a b ody

is th e odo r ifer ous p r incipl e of th e plant W e Should .

th en have otto of lave nd e r instead of essential o il of

lave nd er &c , &c In this work it wil l b e s ee n that
, . .

th e writ er has gen er ally us ed the wo r d OTTO in plac e

”
of ess ential O i l i n acco r danc e with his vi ews
,
.

Wh er e th e re exis ts a solution of an e ss e ntial oil in a

fat oil th e n ec essity of so m e such Significant d isti n c
-

tion is re n d e r e d O bvious fo r c o m m e r cially such arti ,

cl es are still call ed O ils — oil o f jasm in e oil of ros e s , ,

!to. It cannot b e e xp ecte d that th e public wil l u se

“ ” ”
th e words fat oil and ess e ntial oil to distinguish ,

th es e differ enc es of co m position .

Th es e ar e s everal good reasons why th e odor ifer ous

principl e of plants should not b e d eno m inate d oils In .

th e fi rst pl ac e it is a bad principl e to gi v e any class

,

of substanc es th e sa m e signification as thos e b elong

ing to anoth er Surely th e re ar e e nough distinguish
.
,

19
218 TE E ART or P E B FU M E B Y .

i n g qualiti es in th ei r co m position th ei r physical char

,

acter and ch em ical reacti on to war rant th e applic a

, ,

tion of a significant nam e to that large class of sub

stan c es known as th e aro m a of plants !
Wh en th e ch em ical nom enclature was l ast r evi s ed ,
th e o r ganic bod i es w er e littl e d ealt with W e know .

“ ”
that w e o w e this univ e r sal oil to th e old alch em ist ,
“ ”
m uch in th e sa m e way as spirit has b een us ed but ,

a littl e consid eration quickly indi c ates th e folly of its

continu ed u se W e can no longer call otto of ros e
.

m ary o r otto of nut m egs e ss ential oil of r os em ary

, , ,

o r n ut m egs with an y m o r e p r op r i ety than w e c an

,
”
te rm sulphuric acid o i l of vitriol A ll th e ch em ical .

“ ”
works sp eak of th e odo r ifer ous bodi es as ess ential
”
or volatil e oils and of th e greasy bodi es as fat
,
“ ”
or unctuous oils O ils prop erly so call ed , u nite
.
,

with salifi abl e bas es and form soap ; wh ere as th e

e ss e ntial or volatil e s —
oil i e what w e would pl eas e
. .
,

h —
to call t e otto do no such thing O n th e contra ry
s .
,

th ey unite with acids in th e m ajo r ity of instanc es .

Th e word oil m ust h er eafter b e con fi n ed to thos e

bodi e s to which its lite ral m ean ing refer s— fauun c tu
'

ous , inodo r ous (wh en pu r e) greasy substanc es—and

,

can no longer b e appli ed to thos e odorifer ous m ate

rials which possess qualiti es diam etr ically opposite to
Oil. W e hav e grappl ed with spi ri t and fix ed its
“ ”

m e aning in a ch e m ical s ens e ; w e hav e n o long er

“ ” ”
spi rit of salt or spi r it of hartshorn L et us
, .

“ ”
no longer have al m ond o il e ss ential al m ond o il ,
”
u nctuous and the lik e
,
.

It r em ains only for u s to com pl ete the branch of

p e rfu m ery which relates to O dors for th e han dk er chi ef,
by giving the form ul ae fo r p r eparing th e m ost favorite
2 20 TE E ART or PE B FU M E R Y .

B U CKI NGHA M P A LA c E B O U Q U E T .

E xtr ait d e fl eur d o r ange

’
,

cassi e
fr om pom ad e of each
,

jas m i n ,
, ,

r ose ,

E xt r act o f or ri s ,

O tto of n er oli ,

lav end er ,

r os e
,

B O U Q UE T DE CARO LI N E ; also call ed BO UQUE T D ES

D E L I c Es .

E xt r ait d e r os e,
viol ette ,

tuber ose ,

E xtr act of or r is ,
of e ach
a m berg ris ,
,

O tto o f ber gam ot ,

C it r on z est e,

T HE COU RT N OS E GA Y .

E xtr ait d e r ose ,

N

jas m in ,

E sp r it d e r os e tr ipl e
, ,

E xtr act o f m usk ,

am ber gri s ,

O tto citr on zeste ,

ber gam ot ,

n er oli ,

EAU DE C H YP RE .

This is an old fashion ed F r ench p e rfu m e p resu m ed

-

to b e d erived fro m th e n p er us esculen tus by so m e and ,

by oth ers to be so nam ed after th e Islan d of C yprus ;

th e articl e sold , how ev e r , is m ad e thus :
 BOU QU ETS AND NO S E G AYS . 221

E xtr act of m usk ,

am ber gr i s ,

vanilla ,

Tonquin bean ,
O f each ,

or r is ,

E sp r it d e r os e t r ipl e
, , 2 pints .

Th e ixtu r e thus form

m e d is o n e of the m ost lasting
O do r s that can b e m ad e .

EMP RE S S EU G E N I E S ’
N O S E GA Y .

E xt r act O f m usk ,

vanilla O f eac h
,

Tonqui n bean ,
,

n er oli ,

ger aniu m ,

r ose tr ipl e
,
of each , ,

santal ,

E S TE R E s BO U QU ET .

E xt r ait d e fl e u r d o r an g e ( fr om po m ad e)
’

E pri t d e r ose tr ipl e

s , ,

E xt r act of v i ti v er t ,

vanilla ,
O f each
o r r is ,
,

Tonquin ,

E sp r it d e n er oli ,

E xt r act of a m b er g r is ,

O t to of santal ,

clov es ,

Notwithstanding th e com pl ex m ixtu r e h er e given ,

it is th e v i ti v ert that gives this bouqu et i ts p eculia r

cha ract er Few p erfu m es hav e excited gr eater f ur ore
.

whil e in fashion .

E ss B O UQU E T .

T h e r eputation of this p erfu m e has give n ris e to

nu m er ous i m itations of the o r iginal ar ticl e m ore ,

particular ly on the contin e nt In m any of th e shops .

in G erm any an d in F r anc e will be s een bottl e s 1a

*
19
22 2 TE E ART or P E RF U ME RY .

b ell e d in close i m itation to thos e s ent out by Bayl ey

85 C o C ockspu r Str eet, L ondon , who are, in tr uth
.
, ,

the original m ake rs .

E sp ri t d e ose tr iple
r , ,

E xtr act of a m ber gr is ,

or r is ,

O tto of l em ons ,

ber ga m ot ,

”
T he na m e Ess bouqu et which app ears to pu zzl e ,
”
so m e folk , is but a m er e contraction of essence of
bouqu et
E A U D E C O LO G N E .

( L o p r em ier e w as .

S pi r it
( fr om g r ape ) 6 0 ov er p r o of ,

O tto of n er oli p etals, ,

u u bi ga f ad e,
os em ar y
r ,

or ange zeste ,

citr on zeste ,

bergam ot ,

M i x with agitation ; th en allow it to stand

fec tl y qui e t be for e bottling .

EAU DE C O LO G N E
(L a d ouz iem e q ual i té )
.

Spi r it ( fr om cor n ) ,

O tto of P eti t gr ai n
-
,

n er oli p etal s
, ,

r ose m a r y ,

or ange p eel ,

l em on , a h
of e c ,

b ergam ot ,

A lthough eau d e C ologn e

was originally introduc ed
”
to th e public as a sort of cu r e all a r egu lar el ixi r -

,
”
of l ife it now tak es its place , not as a ph arm ac euti
,

cal produc t but am ong pe rfu m ery O f its re m ed ial

,
.
2 24 TE E A RT or P E R E U M E R Y.

citrin e ottos wit h spirit and th e n to d i sti l t h e m i x ,

tu r e afte r war ds adding to th e distillate th e r os em a ry

,

and n er oli es such proc ess b eing th e o n e adopte d by

,

th e m ost popular hous e at C ologn e .

A gr eat m any form s for th e m anufacture of e au d e

C ologn e hav e b een publish ed the authors of so m e o f ,

th e r ecip es e vid e ntly having no knowl edge in a p rac ,

tical s ens e of what th ey w ere putting by th eory on

, , ,

pap er ; oth er v enturer s to S how th eir lo r e hav e , ,

s earch e d out all th e ar o m atics of L indl ey s Botany ’

,

and would p er suad e us to use absinth e hyssop anis e , , ,

j unip e r m arjo r am caraway fenn el cu m in cardam o m

, , , , , ,

cinna m on n utm eg s e rpol et angelica cloves lav end er

, , , , , ,

cam pho r , bal m , p epp e rm int galanga l em on thy m e , , ,

&c .
, &c .
, &c .

A ll th es e how ev e r, b ut h u m — l W h ere it
,
ar e

is a m e r e m atte r o f p r ofit an d th e fo rm ula that w e ,

hav e give n is too exp ensiv e to p roduc e th e articl e re

qui r ed it is b et ter to dilut e th e said C ologn e with a
,

w eak spirit , or with r os e wate r and th e n filte r i t -

thr ough pap er with a littl e m agn esia rath e r than ,

oth erwis e alte r its form ; b ecaus e although w eak , th e ,

t r u e a ro m a of th e o r iginal a r ticl e is r etain ed .

T he r ecip e of th e s econd quality of eau d e C ologn e

is giv en to show that a v e ry d ec e n t articl e c an b e
,

p r oduc ed with English spi r it .

FLO WE RS o r E RI N .

E xtr ac t o f white r o se (see W H IT E ROS E ) ,

vanilla ,

MO WN H A Y
N EW -
.

G o od hay —sw eet h ay hath no fellow ,

”

says S haksp eare ; tr u e ,

th e fra granc e of hay is on e of
 BOU Q U ETS . 2 25

th e m ost grateful to our s ens es and it is n atu r al that ,

th e re sho u ld b e a d em and for a p er fum e of this odor .

Th e O dor of hay is d u e to th e v er nal gr ass it con

tains Wh en v ern al grass is w ell grown out and
.
,

d ri ed , it e volv es an odo r ous principl e si m ila r to that

yi eld ed by th e C o urm ari n or Tonquin B ean ; h enc e
th e em ploy m ent of th e latt er in th e following m i x
ture which giv es gen eral satisfaction
,
.

E xtr ac t of Tonqui n bean ,

ger aniu m ,

o r ange flow ers ,

r ose ,

tr ipl e ,

j essam ine ,

RO YA L HU NT B O U Q U E T .

E sp r it d e r os e t r ipl e
, ,

n er oli ,

acacia ,

fl eu r d o r an ge of each
’
, ,

m use ,

or r is ,

Tonquin ,

O tto o f citr on z este ,

B O U QU E T DE FLO R A ; o th er wi se ,
E x T RA c T
E sp r it d e r ose ,
H
fr om po m ade of each, ,

E xt r ac t
of ben zoin ,

O tto of ber ga m ot ,

citr on zeste ,

o r an ge zeste ,

T E E G U ARD S B O U Q U E T ’
.

E sp r it d e os e
r , 2 pints .

n er oli ,

E xt r ac t of vanilla , of each ,
o r r is ,

m usk ,

O tto of clov es ,
2 26 TE E A RT OE P E RF U M E RY .

FL E U R D
’
ITAL I E or , I T ALI A N N O S EG Ar .

E sp r it d e os e fr o m pom ad e
r , ,

r os e tr ipl e
, ,

jas m in ,
fr om po m ad e each
viol ette ,
, ,

E xt r act of cassi e ,
u
ach
of e ,

JOO E E YC L U E B O U Q U ET ( E ngl ish Form ula)

E xtr act of o r r is r oot ,

E spr it de r os e tr ipl e
, ,

r ose d e p o m m ad e
, ,

E xtr act d e cassi e ,

d e po m m ad e o f each , ,
fl

am ber g ris ,

O tto of ber gam ot ,

C LU E B O U Q U ET ( French Form
JO C E E Y ul a )
E sp r it d e r os e d e po m m ad e
, ,

tube reus e ,

caSS Ie ,

jas m in
E xtr act o f civ et ,

I nd ep end e ntly of th e m ate rials e m ploy e d b eing

different to th e origi nal English re cip e it m ust be ,

r e m e m b er ed that all th e F r e nch p er fu m e s ar e m ad e

of b randy, i e , g rap e spi rit ; wh er eas th e English

. .

p er fu m es ar e m ad e with co r n spi r it which alon e ,

m odifi es th e ir odor Though good fo r so m e m i x .

tu res y et fo r oth e rs the grap e spirit is v ery objec

,

ti o n abl e on ac count O f th e p r ed o m i n an ce o f its own

‘

a ro m a .

W e hav e spok en of th e di ffer enc e in th e odo r b e

tw een th e E nglish and F r ench spi rit ; th e m ar ked
distinction of British and Parisian p erfum es m ad e ac
2 28 TH E ART or PE R F U M E RY .

with English corn spirit but j udges of th e a r ticl e ,

e m m —
and th ey alon can sta p its erit discov er ins tantly
the sa m e differ enc e as the connoiss eu r finds out be
”
tw een Patent B r itish and for eign b r andy .

P e rhaps it m ay not b e out of plac e h er e to obs e rv e

that what is sold in this country as British b randy i s
in t r uth gr ap e spirit that is fo r eign b r andy, v er y , ,

la rgely m ix ed with English spiri t ! By this sch em e ,

a r eal s em blanc e to th e fo r eign b r andy flavo r is m ain

tai n ed ; th e di ffe r enc e in duty upon Engl is h and
“
fo r eign spirit e nabl es the m ak e r s of th e capsul ed
articl e to und ers el l thos e who v end the u n s0 ph i sti
c ate d C ognac .

“
So m e ch em ists not b eing v ery d eep in the tricks
,
”
of t r ad e hav e thought that so m e flavo r ing o r that
, ,

(E n au thi c e th er w as us e d to i m part to Bri ti sh spirit

,

th e C ognac ar o m a A n arti cl e is eve n in the m a rk et

.

“ ”
call ed Ess enc e of C ognac but whic h is nothing ,

m o r e than v e ry badly m ad e butyric e th er .

O n th e C ontin e nt a gr eat d eal of spi rit is p r ocu r ed

by the fer m e nta tion of th e m olass es fr o m b eet r oot ; -

this of cou r s e, finds its way into th e m arket an d is

, ,

ofte n m ixed w ith the g rap e spi r it ; so also i n Eng , ,

land w e hav e spirit fro m potato es which is m ixe d in

th e co r n spirit Th es e adulte r ations if w e m ay so
.
,

t er m th em , m odify th e r elativ e odo r s of th e p ri m iti ve

alcohols .

A JA P A N E S E P E E EU M E .

of r os e tr ipl e
, ,

v i ti v er t ,

patchouly , of e ach ,

c eda r ,

santal ,

v er v ein e ,
 M I L L E FL E U B S . 22 9

KE w GARD E N N OS E GAY .

E spr it do n er oli (p a ic ) n ,

cassi e ,

tubere use fr om po m ade , of

,
eac h
jas m in ,
,

ger anium ,

m usk ,

am ber g r is ,

STO L E N KI SS E S .

The ki ss s of a th ousand fl w rs
e o e ,

Sto l n fro m them whi l th y sleep —B

e e e .
"
. B aouen .

E xtr ac t o f jonquil
o f e ac h 1 quar t
,

orr is , .

E xtr ac t of Tonquin ,

r ose t r ipl e
, o f each , ,

of e ach ,

E AU D ES MI L LE FL E UB S .

de r os e tr iple
, ,

r os e d e po m m ad e ,

tuber euse ,

j asm i n ,
fr om pom ade , of

fl en r d o r ange ’ “ 0 h!
,

cassi e ,

E xtr ac t ofced ar ,

vanilla ,

am ber g r is ,
o f ea ch ,

m us k ,

Ot to o f al m onds ,

n er oli ,
of e ach , 10 d r op .

clov es ,

ber gam ot , 1 o z.

Th es e i ngredi ents ar e to rem ain to geth er fo r

’

l east a fort night, th en filtered prior to sal e .

20
280 TE E A RT or P E R FU M E B Y .

MIL L E EL E U RS ET L A v E N D ER .

E ss ence of lav ender ( M i tc ham or H i tchi n ),

E au d es m i ll efleur s,

D Ew R o rx s
’
MI L L E r LE U R L A V E N D E R .

Spi rits fro m g r ape ,

Fr ench otto o f lavend er ,

E xt r act o f a m ber g r is ,

“
Th e original lav end er aux m ill efleurs is that of
D el c ro ix ; i ts p eculiar odor is d u e to th e F r ench otto
of lav end er , w hich , although so m e folks like it is ,

v ery infe rio r to th e English otto of lav end er ; h e nc e

th e form ula fi rst give n is far sup e rio r to that by th e
i nv entor and h as al m ost sup ers ed ed the original
,

p r eparations .

Th ere ar e s ever al oth er com pounds or bouqu ets o f ,

which lavend er is th e l eading ingredie n t, and fr o m

w hich th ey tak e th eir nam e such as lavend er and ,

am b e rgri s lav end e r and m usk lav end er and m are

, ,

chal e &c , all of which ar e co m posed of fi n e spi r ituous

,
.

e ss e nc e s of lave nd e r with about 1 5 p er c e nt of any , .

of th e oth er ingr edi en ts .

B O UQU ET DU
E sp r it d e ose tr ipl e
r , ,

E xt r ait d e fleu r d o r ang e ’

,

v i ti v er t ,

vanilla ,

or ri s ,

Tonquin ,

E sp r it d e n e r oli ,

E xtract o f m usk
u
,
of e ach ,

O tto of clov es ,

santal ,
232 TE E ART or P E R E U E E Rr .

E xt r ac t o f ro es (de po m m ad e) ,

jas m ine
fleu r d o r ang e ’
,
of e ach ,
,

cass ie ,

O tto of al m onds ,

L E A P YE AR BO U Q U E T
-
.

“
In l ap y ear
e -
they hav e w
po er to c h o e os
Ye m en n o c ha t
r er to re fuse
”
0 Ln S.
— O NG .

of e ach ,

}
1 pi nt
.

I N T ERN A TI O N A L B O UQUE T or A LL
N ati on s w h ere i n th e

T U Rx E r , E spr it d e ose tri pl e

r , ,

A E R I OA , E xtr act o f jasm in e ,

E N G LA N D , u

FR A N OE , tuber eus e ,

S O UT E A M E R IC A , vanil l a ,

Tw oR, santal ,

I T A LY , vi ol et ,

H IN D O OST AN , patchouly ,

C E T LON , O tto o f citr on ella ,

l em ons ,

E x tr ac t o f m usk ,

I S LE or WI O E T B O UQ UE T .

E xtr ac t of or r is ,

v i ti v er t,

santal ,
 R ON DE LETIA OD OR ATA . 23 3

B O U Q U ET DU ROI .

E xtr act of jasm in e ,

v iol et , fr om pom ade ,o f ea ch ,

r os e ,

vanilla ,

v i ti v er t,

m usk ,

O tto of ber ga m ot ,

clov es ,

B O U Q UE T LA RE I NE AN O L E TE RRE
’
DE D .

E sp r it d e sro e ,

E xtr ait d e viol ette

fr om po m ad e , o f ea ch ,
1 pint .

5 pint .

fl eur d or ange
’
, i pint .

oz .

ROND E LE TI A .

Th e p erfum e b earing th e above nam e is u ndoubt

ed ly o n e of th e m ost grati fying to th e s m elling n er v e

that has e v e r b ee n m ad e Its inv entors , M essrs . .

H an nay and D i etr i ch sen , hav e p r obably tak en th e

nam e of this Od or from th e R andeletza th e Ckyn len of
'
'
-

th e C hin es e ; o r from th e R odor ata of th e W est . .

Indi es which h as a sw eet O dor W e hav e b efo r e o h

, .

s er ve d that th er e is a si m ilarity of effect u pon th e O l

factory n er ve produc e d by c e rtain O dors al though ,

d eriv ed fro m totally differe nt sourc es ; that for i n ,

st anc e otto of al m onds m ay be m ix ed with extract of

,

viol e t in such p r oportion that although the odo r is ,

increas ed , yet th e character p eculiar to th e viol et is

not destr oyed Again : th ere ar e c ertain O dors which
.
,

on b eing m ix ed in d ue proportion , produc e a n ew

aro m a , pe rfectly distinct an d pe culia r to itse lf Th is .

20 “
2 34 TE E ART or P E B B U M E R Y.

effec t is exem plifi ed by com parison with th e influ enc e

O f c e rtain colo r s wh en m ix ed , u pon the n er v e of
,

vision : such fo r instanc e, as wh en yellow and blu e

,

are m ix e d th e r esult w e call gr ee n ; or wh e n blu e

,

and r e d ar e united, the c o m pound color is known as

puc e or viol et .

Now wh en th e odor of lavend e r an d Odor of cloves

are m i x ed th ey produc e a n ew fragranc e , z e Ron
'

. .
, ,

d el eti a ! It is such co m binations that constitute i n

”
r eality a n ew p erfu m e, which , though O ften ad v er
ti sed , is v ery r ar ely attain ed Jas m in e and patchouly
.

p r oduc e a nov el ar om a , and m any oth ers in like

m ann er ; proportion and r elati v e str ength , wh e n so

m ix ed , m ust O f cou rs e b e studi e d and th e substanc es

,

u s e d ac c ordingly If th e sa m e quantity of any give n

.

otto b e dissolved i n a like proportion of spi rit , and

th e solution b e m ix e d i n equal proportions , th e
strongest odor is in stantly in d icate d by c ov er i ng or
hiding th e pres enc e of th e oth er In this way w e .

disc over that patchouly v i ti ver t lav e nde r and v er

, , ,

b ena ar e the m ost po te nt O f th e v egetabl e O dors and ,

that viol et, tub ereus e, and j as m in e, are th e m ost d eli

cate .

M any p ersons will at first consid e r that w e ar e

asking too m uch wh en w e exp r ess a d esi r e to hav e
,

th e sam e d efe r enc e paid to th e o l fac to ry n e rv e as to

.

th e oth er n e rves that i n flu enc e our physical pl eas u r es

and pains By tu toring th e olfactory n er ve it is c a
.
,

pah l e of p erc ei ving m atter in th e atm osph ere of th e

m ost subtl e natu r e : not only that which is pl e asant ,

but also such as ar e u n h ealthful If an unpl easant

.

O dor is a warning to s eek a purer atm osph e r e, s u rely

it is worth while to cultivate that power whic h enabl es

2 36 TE E ART or P E R E U N E R Y.

P osr
’
P IE S SE S .

E xt r act ose (fr om po m ad e)

of r ,

Espr it de r ose t r ipl e ,

E xtr act o f jasm i n e

(C
fr om po m ade
,
,

E xtr act O f v er be na ,
of e ach ,
cassi e ,

O tto o f l em ons ,

ber gam ot ,

E xt ract o f m usk ,

am ber gr is ,

fr om pom ade , o
fe ach , 1 pint.

musk ,

am ber gr is o f eac h ,
,

O tto o f ber gam ot ,

clov es ,

SPRI NG FL O W ER S .

E xt r act of r ose
u
,
fr o m po m ade , of e ach ,

Th e j ust reputati on of thi s p erfum e plac es it in th e

first rank of th e v ery b est m ixtures that hav e e v er
b een m ad e by any m anufacturing p e rfu m er Its O dor .

is truly flow e ry but p ecul iar to its elf B eing unlike

, .

any oth er ar o m a , it cannot w ell b e i m itated chi efly ,

b ecau s e th ere is nothing th at w e ar e acquainted with

that at all re se m bl es th e O dor of the e spri t d e rose ,
 TE E W O OD V I O L E T . 2 37

as de rived fro m m ac erating ro s e po m ade in spirit ,

to which and to th e extract of viol et nicel y coun

, ,

terp o i se d so that n eith er O dor p r edo m in ate s th e

, ,
”
p eculiar character of Spring Flow ers is d ue ; th e
li ttl e a m b ergris that is p r es ent giv es p erm an ence to
th e O dor upo n th e handk er chi ef, although fr o m th e ,

v e ry natu r e of the i n gr edi ents it m ay b e said to be ,

”
a fleeting odo r Sp r ing Flo w ers
. i s an English
m an s inv enti on , but th er e is scarc ely a p erfum er in
’

Europe t hat do es not attem pt an i m itation .

T U LIP N O S E GA Y .

Near ly all th e t ulip t rib e although b eautiful to th e ,

ey e ar e inodorous
,
Th e vari ety call e d th e D u e van
.

Th e ], how ev er yi e lds an exquisit e p e rfu m e , but is

,

not u s ed by th e m an u factu r er fo r th e purpos e of

e xtracting its O do r H e how ev er bo r r ows its po eti
.
, ,

cal nam e , au d m ak es an exc ell e nt i m itation thus

E xtr act tuber euse
of ,

viol et ,
fr om pom ad e ,
o f ea ch , 1 pint .

jas m in ,

r os e ,

o rr is ,

O tto of al m onds ,

V I O LE TT E D E S B OI S .

U nd e r th e h ead Viol et w e hav e al r ead y explain ed ,

th e m e thod of p r epa r ing th e e xtract or esse nc e of

that m od est flow er T h e Parisian p e rfu m er s s ell a
.

m i xtur e of viol e t which is v e ry b eautiful und e r th e

, ,

titl e of th e Viol ette d es Bois , or th e Wood V i ol et,

which is m ad e thus :
E xtr act of viol et ,
u o rr i s
,

cassi e ,

r ose fr o m po m ad e
( ) ,

Ot to of al m onds ,
2 38 TE E ART or r E RE U N E Rr .

This m ixtu r e in a gen e ral way gives m ore satis

, ,

faction to th e custo m er than th e pure viol et .

R I FL E V O L U N T E E R S ’
G AR LA N D .

A lcohol ,

O tto of n er oli ,

r os e,
ah
of e c
lav ender ,
,

clov es ,

E xtr act o f o r r is ,

jas m in e ,

cassi e ,

m usk ,

YA C E T C L UE BO UQUET .

E xtr act of santal ,

j as m in e ,

r ose tr ipl e , ,

vanilla ,

F lower s o f be n zoin ,

W ES T E ND B O U QU E T .

E xt r act O f cassi e ,
u
tuber ose ,

jas m in e ,

E spr it de r o s e tr ipl e , , 8 pints .

E xtr act o f m usk ,

fl

Ot to of bergam ot ,

W e hav e now co m pl eted the branch of th e

p erfu m ery which r elate s to the handk er chi ef p er
fu m es , O r w et p erfum ery Although w e hav e r ath er .

to o m uch encroach ed upon th e spac e of this work ,

in giving the com position Of so m any bouqu ets , y et
240 TE E ART or P E RE U E E R I .

S E C T I O N IX .

E a r th
sm il es in all h er r ich atti re ,

Here fr agr ant pl an ts th ei r odo r s sh ed .

"

H A YD N ’
B Or eati on .

TE E previous articl es hav e exclusively tr eate d O f

W et P erfu m e s ; th e p r ese nt m att e r r elates to Dry
P e rfum es — sach e t powd er s , tabl ets pastill es fu m i
, , ,

g ati o n by t h e aid of h e at, of volatil e od orous resins ,

&c , &c
. . T he p erfu m es used by th e anci ents w ere ,

u ndoubtedly nothing m ore than th e odoriferous

,

gu m s which naturally exu d e fro m various tr ees and

sh r ubs indigenous to th e Easte rn h em isph ere : that
th ey w ere v ery ext ensively us ed and m uch valu ed ,

w e have only to r ead th e Scripture s fo r proofs

“ Who is this that co m eth p erfu m ed w ith
m yrrh and frankinc ens e , with all th e powd e rs of

th e m er chant ( Song o f S olo m on 3 : A bsta i n

i n g fro m th e u se of p e rfu m e in Eas te rn countri es
is conside red as a Sig n of hu m iliation “ A nd it .

shall com e to pass that in stead of sw eet s m ell th er e

”
shall b e stink (Isaiah
. A n d th ey ca m e
”
and brought tabl ets (Exod 3 5 :
. . T h e word ta
bl ets i n this pas sage m eans p erfu m e boxes , curi -

on ely inlaid , m ad e of m etal wood , and ivory Som e

, .

O f th es e box es m ay hav e b ee n m ad e in th e shap e O f

buildings which would explai n the word palaces i n

,

Psalm 45 : 8 : All thy garm ents sm el l of m yrrh ,

and aloes , and cassia, out o f the ivory pal ac es , where
 SAC E ET PO W D E RS . 241

”
by th ey have m ad e th ee glad F r om what is said
.

in Matt . it would app ear that p e rfu m es w er e

consid er ed am ong th e m ost val uabl e gi fts that m an
could b estow : A n d wh e n th ey ! th e wi s e m en ] had
op en ed th ei r tr easu r es , th ey p r ese nte d unto hi m
!C hrist ] gif ts ; gold ,
an d frankinc e ns e an d m yrrh , .
"

As far as w e ar e abl e to l earn , all th e p e rfu m es us ed

by th e Egyptians and P ersians during th e ea r ly
p eriod O f th e wo r ld w ere dry p erfu m es consisting O f ,

spikena r d (Nardostachys Jatam ansi), m yr r h , oliban um ,

and oth er gu m re s ins n ear ly all O f which are stil l i n
-

u se by th e m anu factur e rs of odors A m ong th e cu r i

.

O S i ti es shown at A lnwick C astl e is a vas e that was

tak e n from an Egyptian cata com b It is full of a .

m ixtur e O f g um r esins &c , which evolve a pl easant

-

, .

O dor to th e pres e nt day , although probably 3 00 0

y ears O ld W e h ave no doubt that th e or iginal use

.

O f this v as e and its cont ents was fo r p e rfu m ing ap art

m e nts , in th e sa m e way that pot pour ri i s now use d

-
.

P OWD ERS
SAC E E T .

Th e French and English p erfu m e rs con coct a great

vari ety of th es e substanc es , whi ch b e ing put into ,

silk bags or o r nam e ntal envelop es find a r eady sal e , ,

b eing both good to sm el l and econo m ical as a m eans

of i m parting an agr eeabl e O dor to lin en and cloth es
as th ey li e in draw er s T he following for m ula shows
.

th ei r co m position Ev ery m ate rial is eith er to b e

.

gro und i n a m ill , o r powd er ed in a m ortar, and after

A CAC I A SAC E ET .

C assi e flow er heads ,

O rr i n powder ,
242 TE E ART or P E RE U N E Rr .

This is a v ery nic e sach et and sm ells so m ething

,

l i k e t ea
.

T h e m at e rials em ploy ed in th e m an ufacture of

sach et powd e rs ar e thos e only which r etain an O dor

or are frag rant in th eir dri ed state, which include

Dr ying H ouse .

all that ar e t erm ed h erbs in dom estic econ

o m y , such as l em on thy m e m int &c and so m e few
, ,
.
,

l eav es O f plants such as thos e of the o r ange t r ee

, ,

citron tr ee &c V e ry few blosso m s howe ve r , ex

, .
,

c ept lav en de r r ose and cas si e hav e any frag r ance

, , ,

wh en dri e d Th e jasm in e tub ereus e viol et and

.
, , ,
244 TE E ART or PE B FU M E R Y .

The nam e O f this sach et has been han d ed down to

u s as b ei ng d e riv ed fro m a Ro m an O f th e nobl e fam ily

of F r angipani M uti o Frangipani was an alch em ist

.
,

e vid e ntly O f so m e r epute , as w e hav e anoth er articl e

call e d r o sol i s or r os so lis sun dew an ar o m atic spir

,
-

,
-

i tuous liquor, u sed as a sto m achic O f which h e is said ,

to hav e b ee n th e inve nto r com posed of win e in which ,

is steep ed coriand er fenn el anis e, an d m usk , ,

.

HEL I O TRO P E S AOE E T .

P owd er ed or r i s ,
2 lbs .

Rose l ea v es gr ound , l ib , .

Tonqui n beans gr ound ,

lb ,
.

V anilla beans ,
lb .

G r ain m usk ,
oz .

O tto O f al m onds ,
6 dr ops .

Wh en w ell m ixed by si fting in a coar s e si eve it i s fit for sal e ,

.

It is on e of th e
b est sach ets m ad e an d is so p er ,

fec tly d a na tur al in its O dor to th e flow e r fro m which

it d er ive s its nam e that no p erson unacquainted with
,

i ts co m position would for an instant , b el i ev e it to b e ,

”
any oth er than th e real thing .

L AV E N DE R SA C E E T .

L av ender flower s g ound , r ,

Gu m be n zoin in powd , er ,

O tto of l av ender ,

M AREC E A L E SAC E E T .

P owd er santal wood

of -
,

or r is r oot ,

Ro se l eav es g r ound
, ,

C lov es gr ound
, ,

C assia bar k ,

G r ain m usk
 SAC E ET P OW D E RS . 245

V i ti v er t, in powder ,

O tto O f thym e,

roses,

M IL L Er L EU R SA C E E T .

Lavender flower s gr ound , ,

Orr is ,

B en zoin ,

V anilla ,
Santal ,
M usk and civ et , ea ch ,

C lov es , gr o und ,

A llspice ,

SAC RE D

l em on peel ,

or r is r oot ,

O t to O f or ange peel ,

n er oli ,

P A TCHOUL Y SA C E E T .

1 lb.

O tto of patchouly ,
dr ach m .

Patchouly h erb is O ften sold in i ts natural state, as

i m po rted , ti ed up i n bundl es O f half a po und each .

"
21
2 46 TE E A RT or PE REUE E Rr.

P OT -
P O U RRI .

This is a m ixtur e of dri e d flow e rs

gr ound .

D ri ed lavender ,

Whol e r os e l eav es ,

C r ush ed or r is ( coar se ) ,

B r ok e n clov es ,

cinnam on each , ,

allspi ce ,

Tabl e salt ,

W e n eed scarc ely O bs erv e, th at th e salt is only u s ed

to increas e th e bulk and weight of the product , i n
order to s el l it ch eap .

OLLA POD R ID A -
.

This is a si m ilar preparation to Pot Pourri NO -

.

regular form can b e giv en for it , as it is g en erally

“ ”
m ad e , or kn ock ed up with th e r efus e and sp ent ,

m ate rials d e rive d fro m oth er proc ess es in the m anu

facture O f p e rfu m ery ; such as the sp e nt vanilla after
th e m anu factu r e of tinctu r e o r extr act of van il la or ,

of th e grain m usk fro m th e extract O f m usk , orris

from th e tinctu r e Tonquin b eans after ti nctu r ation ,
,

&c &c , m ix ed up with r os e l eaves , lave nd e r , o r any

.
, .
-

odo r ife rous h er bs .

RO SE SAC RE T .

Ros e h eel s o r l eav es ,

S antal wood gr o u n d
-
, ,

O tto O f r ose s ,

SA NT A L WOOD SAC E ET -
.

Th i s i s a good and econo m ical sach et, and si m ply

c onsists Of th e ground wood Santal wood is to be .
-
248 TE E A RT or P E Rr U N E Rr .

V I O LE T SAC E ET .

lac k c um n t leav es
B -

, 1 lb .

C assi e flow er h eads , 1 lb .

Rose h eels o r l ea v es , 1 lb .

O rr i s r oo t powder , 2 l bs .

O tto o f al m onds , d r ach m .

G rai n m usk , l d r ach m .

G um ben z oi n i n powder , , lb .

W ell m i x th e ingredi ents by si fting ; k eep th em to geth er fo r a

w eek i n a glass o r po rc el ain jar before o fler i n g fo r sal e '

Th ere are m any oth er sach e ts m anu factu r ed b e

sid es thos e al r eady giv en ; but fo r ac tu al trad e pur
pos es th ere is no advantage i n k eeping a greater
,

vari ety than those nam ed Th er e ar e howev er, .

,

m any oth e r substanc es us e d i n a si m ilar way ; th e

m ost popular is th e

P EAU D E sr Ae NE ’
.

P eau d E sp agn e, or Spani sh ski n , is h ighly per

’

fum ed l eath er prepare d thus : G oo d sound pi eces of

,

w as h l eath e r ar e to b e steep ed in a m ixtu re of ottos ,

-

in which are dissolv ed som e odoriferous gum resins -

otto of n e roli otto of ros e santal O f each half an

, , ,

oun ce ; otto of lav end er, v erb ena b ergam ot, O f e ach ,

a quart er Of an ounc e ; otto of clov es and cinnam on ,

of each two drachm s ; with an y oth ers thought fit .

In hal f a pint of spirit, dissolv e about four ounces o f

b e n z oin , and add it to th e m ix e d ottos : n o w
gu m

plac e th e skin to steep i n th e m ixtu r e fo r a day or

so , th en rem ov e it and squ eez e out th e sup er fluous
,

sc ent ; fin ally , l et th e skin d ry by e xposure to the

air A pas te i s n o w to b e m ad e by rubbing i n a
.

m ort ar o n e drach m o f cive t with o n e drach m of

 PEAU D
’
ES PAGNE . 249

grai n usk and e nough solution O f gum acac ia or

m ,

g um tragac antha to giv e it a spr e ading consist e nce ;

a littl e O f any of th e ott o s that m ay b e l eft fro m th e
steep , sti rr ed I n with th e ci vet &c gr eatly assists in ,
.

m aking th e whol e of an equal body ; th e skin b eing ,

cut u p into pi e c es of about four inch es squar e is ,

th en to b e sp r ead ov er pl aster fashion with th e last

, ,

n am ed co m post : two pi ec es b eing put to ge th e r hav ,

ing th e civ et plaster insid e th em ar e th en to b e plac ed ,

b etw een sh ee ts O f pap er w eighted o r p r esse d , and

,

l eft to d ry thus fo r a week ; finally , eac h doubl e skin ,

n o w call ed p e au d E sp a n e, is to be e nv elop ed in
’
‘

g
so m e p r etty silk o r sati n , and finish ed off to th e
t aste of the vendor .

S ki n or l e ath er thus prepar ed evolv es a pl easant

odo r fo r y ears and h enc e th ey ar e fre qu ently c all e d
,
”
th e in exhaustibl e sach e t B eing flat th ey ar e
.
,

m uch us ed fo r p er fum ing writing pap e r -

.

Th e lasting odor of Russia l eath er is fam iliar to

all and pl easing to m any ; its p e rfum e is d ue to th e
arom atic sand er s wo o d with which it is tann e d and
, ,

to th e em pyr e u m atic O i l of th e bark O f th e bi r ch tr ee ,

wi th which it i s curri e d The O do r O f Russia l eath e r

.

is howev er not r echer che enough to b e consid e r ed as

, ,

a p e r fu m e ; but , n ev erth el ess l eath er can b e i m p r eg

,

n ate d by st eeping in th e various ottos with any

, ,

swe et scent and which it r etains to a r em arkabl e

,

d egree esp ecially with otto o f san tal or l em on grass

,

( V er ben a
) In this
. m ann e r th e odor of th e p e au d E s
’

pagn e can b e gr eatly vari ed and gives m uch sati sfac

,

ti on on account of th e p e rm an e nc e of its p erfu m e

, .

A noth er way of m aking a good flat sach et is to ,

m ak e a m ixt u r e of civ e t and m usk , thinn ed do w n by

2 50 TE E A RT or P E R FU M E B Y.

rubbing in a m ortar with liquid gu m , spr eading this

co m pound on card b oard ; wh e n d ry , th e card m ay
-

b e plaite d ov er wi th colore d ri bbons .

P E RP U M E D L E TT E R PAPER .

Ifa pi ece of p eau d E spagn e be plac ed in contact

’

with pap er th e latter abso r bs sufli c i eu t O dor to b e

,
”
consid er ed as p er fu m ed It is obvio us that pap er
.

fo r w r iting u pon m ust not b e touch ed wi th any of

th e od o r ous ti nctu r es or ottos on account of any ,

such m at ters int er fer ing with th e flui d ity of th e ink

an d acti on O f th e pen in writing u pon it ; th er efo r e,
by th e p r oc ess of infe ction as it w er e alon e c an
, ,

writi ng pap e r b e p er fu m ed to advantage

-
.

B esid es th e s ach ets m e ntion ed th e re ar e m any ,

oth er substanc es appli ed as d ry p e rfu m ery such as ,

sc ent ed wadding us ed for quilting into all sorts of

,

articl e s adapte d fo r u se in a lady s boudoi r Pin ’

.

cushions , j ew el c as e s and th e lik e ar e lin e d with

-

, ,

it C otton so p erfu m e d is si m ply steep ed in so m e

.
, ,

strong essenc e , of m usk , &c .

P E RFU M E D B OOK M A RK S -
.

W e have s ee n that l eath er can b e i m pregnated

wi th odo r ifer ous substanc es , in th e m an u factu r e of
p eau d E spagn e ; j ust so is card boar d tr e ated prior
’
-

to b eing m ad e up in to book m arks In finishing -

.

th em fo r sal e tast e alon e dictates th eir d esign ; so m e

,

ar e ornam ent e d with b e ads oth e r s with em b r oid e ry

, .

SC E NT IN G G E M S .

C uriosity is excited to know how th es e gem s ar e

capabl e of yi elding fr agranc e li ke a natural flow er ,

and fro m what count ry th ey co m e .

2 52 TE E ART OE P E R P U E E R P.

Th e sh el ls th en steep ed into th e scent, w hich

ar e

asc e nds into th eir co nvolving tub e Wh e n dry , th ese .

sh ells will s e rv e fo r p erfu m ing j ew el cases and work -

box es .

INC ENS E .

Th ere is n o doubt whateve r that th e origin of the

u se O f pastils , o r pasti l l es as th ey ar e m ore O ften
,

call ed fro m th e French , h as b een d erive d fr o m th e

,

u se of inc e n se at th e altars O f th e tem pl es during th e

religious s ervices : A ccording to th e custom of the

pri est s offic e, his lot !
’
Zacharias ] was to burn inc ens e
’

”
wh en h e w ent in to th e tem pl e of the L o r d (L uk e 1 .

A n d thou sha l t m ak e an altar to bu r n inc ense

upon . A nd A ar o n shall burn th er eon sweet in
c ens e ev e ry m orning wh e n h e dress eth th e lam ps
, ,

and at ev e n wh e n h e lighte th th e lam ps h e shall ,

”
burn inc ense u pon it (Exodus 30 1 , .

TE E C E N SE R .

On walls of ever y tem pl e in Egypt , from

th e
M er Oe to M em phis th e c ens er i s d epicted s m oking
‘

b efo r e the p r esidin g d eity of th e plac e ; on th e walls

of th e to m bs glow in b r ight colo rs th e pr eparation of
”
spic es and p e rfu m es In the B r iti sh M us e u m th ere
.

is a vas e (N O 2595 ) th e body of which is inte nded to

.

contai n a la m p th e sid es b eing p erforated to adm it

,

th e h eat fro m th e fla m e to act upon th e proj e cting

tub es which ar e int end e d to contain ottos O f flow er s
,

pl ac e d in th e s m all vas es at th e en d of th e tub es ;

th e h e at volatili z es th e o ttos , an d quickly p e rfu m es
an apartm ent This vas e or c ens er is fr o m an Egyp
.

tian cataco m b .

Th e c ens er, as use d in th e holy plac es , is m ad e

e ith er O f brass , G erm an silve r , or th e pre cious m etals ;
 INCE NSE .

its for m is repre se nted in th e engraving given b elow ,

th e u pp er part b eing p erforat ed to allow th e escap e of

th e p e rfu m e *
.In th e oute r v ess el is plac ed an inn er

Th e C enso r
.

one of copp er which can b e tak en out and fill ed with

,

ignite d char coal Wh e n in u se th e ignite d car bon

.
,

is plac ed in th e c e ns er and is th en cov er ed with

,

th e inc e ns e ; the h eat rapidly volatili z e s it in V isibl e

fum e s Th e effect is assist e d by th e inc e ns e b eare r
.
-

swi n ging th e c ens er attach ed to three long chains ,

,

i n the ai r Th e m ann er of swingi ng th e c ense r

.

v ari es slightly i n th e chu r ch e s in Ro m e , i n Franc e,

wo r d per fum e is d eri v ed fr om th e L atin p er f um us by

Th e “
,

sm ok e because the fi r st per fu m es u sed wer e of the sm ok e kind

, .
2 54 TE E A RT OP PE B FU M E R Y .

and in Engl and so m e holding it abov e th e h ead

, .

A t L A M A D E L E I NE th e m ethod is al ways to giv e the

,

c ens er a full swi ng at the g reatest l ength of th e

chains with th e right hand, an d to catc h it up short
with the l eft hand .

“
S ever al sa m pl es of incens e prepared fo r altar
s ervi c e as s ent o u t by M r M ar ti n of L iverpool
,
.
,

app ear to b e nothing m ore than gum O libanu m of

indiffere nt quality and not at all like th e co m posi
,

tion as esp e cially co m m and e d by G o d , th e form of

which is gi ven in full in Exodus .

T h e pas tils of th e m od e r ns ar e r eally but a v er y

slight m odification of the inc e ns e of th e anci e nts .

For m any y ea r s th ey w er e call ed O ss el ets of C yprus .

In th e O l d books o n phar m acy a c ertain m ixture

of th e th en known gu m r esins was call e d S n fli tus -

which b eing thrown upon hot ash es pro duc ed a

vapor which was consid ered to b e sal utary in m any
dis eas es .

It is und er the sam e i m p r essio n that pastils an d

fu m igating ribbon ar e now us ed o r at l east to cove r ,

th e m a!odeur of th e sick cha m b er -

.

Th ere is not m uch va r i ety in th e fo r m ula of the

pastils that are n o w in use ; w e hav e fir st th e

I NDIA N OR Y EL LO W P A S TILS .

S antal wood i n powder

-
, ,

G um ben zoin ,

Tolu ,

O tto o f santal ,

cassia o f each
, ,

clov es ,

N it r a te o f potass ,
1} o z.

M uci l ag e of tr agacantha q s to , . m ak e th e whole into a stiff paste .

2 56 TE E A RT OP P E R F U M E RY .

P I E S SE ’
S P AS TI LS .

Willo w char coal ,

B en z oic acid ,

O tto o f thy m e ,

of e ach , i dr ach m .

cloves ,

santal ,

G r ain m usk ,
l d r ach m .

P ur e civ et , d r ach m .

P r ior to m ixing dissolv e 1 o z nit re in half a pint o f distill ed o r

, .

o r dinar y r ose water ; with this solution tho r oughly wet th e char
-

coal and the n allow it to d r y in a wa r m plac e

, .

Wh en th e thus nitr ated char coal is quite dr y pou r ov er it th e ,

m ix ed ottos and sti r i n th e flow er s of b en z oin

,
Wh e n w ell m ix ed .

by sifting ( the si ev e is a better tool fo r m ixing powders than th e

pestl e and m or tar ) it is finally b eaten up in a m or tar wi th eno gh
,
u

m ucilag e to bind the whol e tog eth er and th e l ess that is us ed th e ,

b etter .

A gr eat vari ety of form ul ae hav e b een publish ed for

th e anu facture of pastils ; nin e tenths of th em con
m -

tain so m e woods or bark o r aro m atic s eeds Now, , .

wh en such substanc e s ar e burn e d , th e ch em ist knows

that if th e lign eous fibre contain ed in th em und er
— h —
go s co bustion t e slo w co m bustion m aterials are
e m

produc e d which hav e far fro m a pl easant O dor ; i n

fact th e s m ell Of bu r ning wood p r edom inate s ove r
,

th e volatili z e d a r o m atic ingredi e nts ; it is for this

r eason alon e that charcoal is us ed in li eu o f oth er
substanc es T h e u se of char coal in a pastil i s m ere ly
.

for b urning p r oducing during its co m bustion th e

, , ,

h eat required to quickly volatili z e th e p erfu m ing

m ate rial with which it it su r r ound ed Th e p r oduct .

of the com b ustion of charcoal is inodo rous an d th ere ,

 USE or C E ARC OA L IN P A ST ILS . 2 57

fore do es not in any way interfere with th e fragranc e

O f th e pastil . Such i s, how ever not the cas e with ,

an y ingr edi ents that m ay b e u s e d that ar e not in

th em s elv es p erfectly volatil e by th e aid of a s m all

increm e nt of h eat If co m bustion tak es plac e which
.
,

is always th e cas e with all th e ar o m atic woods that

ar e int r oduc ed into pa stils , w e hav e, b esid es the vol a

ti l i zed otto which th e wood contains all th e c o m ,

po unds natural ly produc ed by the slo w burning of

lign eous m atte r spoiling th e tru e O dor of th e o th e r
,

i ngre di ents volatili z ed .

Th ere are it is tru e c ertain kinds of fu m igation

, ,

ad opted occasionally wh er e th ese products are the

m ate rials sought By such fu m igation as wh e n bro w n
.
,

pap e r is allow ed to s m ould e r— i e und ergo slo w c om

. .
,

b u sti o n — i n a roo m for the pu r pos e of cov e ring bad

s m ells By th e quick co m bustion o f tob acco—that is
.
,

co m bustion with flam e— th er e is no odor d ev elop ed ;

but by Slow co m bustion according to th e m ethod
. ,
“ ”
ad opted by tho se who indul ge in th e w eed the ,
“ ”
fam iliar aro m a o f th e cloud , is ge n e rat ed and did ,

n o t exist r eady for m ed in th e to bac co Now a w ell .

m ad e pastil should not d ev elop any O dor of its own ,

but si m ply volatili z e that fragrant m atte r, whatever

it b e, us e d in its m anufacture W e think that th e
.

fourth form ula giv en above ca r ri es o ut that O bj ect .

It do es n o t follow that th e fo rm ul as that are h e re

giv en produc e at all ti m es th e odor that i s m ost ap
prov ed ; it is evid ent that i n pastils , as with oth er
pe rfum es a great d eal d ep ends u po n taste M any
, .

pe rson s v ery m uch obj e ct to th e aro m a O f b en z oin ,

whil e th ey greatly ad m ir e the fum es of cas carilla .

‘
22
25 8 TE E ART or P E R F U M E RY .

TE E P ERFU M E L AM P .

Shortl y after th e discovery O f th e peculiar p r op e rty

of spongy platinu m rem aining incand esc e nt in th e
vapor of alcohol th e late M r I D eck , O f C am b ridge
, . .
,

m ad e a v e ry ing enious application of it fo r th e purpos e

of p er fu m ing apart m ents A n ord inary spirit lam p is

.
-

fil l ed with H un gary wate r o r oth er sc e nted spirit, and

,

Perfum e La m p .

“ ”
t r i m m e d with a wick in th e usual m ann er O ver .

th e c e nt re O f th e wick , and standing about th e eighth

O f an inch abov e it , a s m all ball O f spongy plati n u m

is plac ed , m aintain ed in its p osition by b eing fix ed

to a thin glass rod which is ins erte d into th e wick
, .

Thus a rr ang e d th e lam p is to b e light ed and

,

allow e d to bu rn unti l th e platin u m b eco m es r ed hot ; -

th e fla m e m ay th e n b e blown o ut ; n e v e r th el ess th e
pl atin u m r em ains incand e sc ent fo r an ind efinite
p er iod T h e p r oxi m ity of a r ed hot ball to a m ate
.
-

rial o f th e volatil e quality of sc ente d spirit d ifl used

'

ov er a surfac e o f a cotton wick as a m atter of course ,

cause s i ts rapid e vapor ation , and as a conse qu e nc e , ,

th e di ffusion of O dor .

Instead of the la m p b eing charged with H ungary

water w e m ay use eau de Portugal v e rv ein e, o r any
, ,
26 0 TE E ART or P E R P U E E Rr .

wat er, o n e pin t After th ey ar e thoroughly m oist

.

e n ed , l et th e m b e w ell dri e d ; u pon o n e sid e of this

pape r sp read a m ixtu re of equal parts O f gu m b en z oin ,
O libanu m , and eith er bal sam s of Tol u or P eru , o r the

b en z oin m ay be us ed alon e To spread th e gum &c ,

.
,
.

it is n ec essary that th ey be m elted in an earth e nware .

v ess el an d poured thinly ov er th e p ap e r finally ,

s m oothing the surface with a hot spatula W h e n r e .

quir ed for u se slips of this pap er ar e h eld ove r a

,

candl e o r lam p , i n ord er to evaporat e th e odorous

’

m att er , but not to ignit e it T he alu m i n th e pap e r

.

p r ev ents it, to a c ertain ext ent , fro m bu r ning .

2 Sh eets of good light pap er ar e to be st eep ed in

.

a solution O f saltp etre in th e p r oportions of two ounc es

,

of th e salt to o n e pint of wat er to be afterwards thor ,

oughly d ri ed .

A ny of th e O do r i fer ous gu m s as m yrr h , O libanu m , ,

b en z oin , &c , ar e to b e dissolved to satu ration in r ec

.

ti fi ed spirit , an d with a brush spr ead upon both sid es

of th e pap er or th e pap er m ay be dipp ed into th e so
,

l u ti o n S p r ead out in a broad flat dish , and th en , b eing

hung u p r apidly d r i es
,
.

S lips O f this pap er ar e to b e r oll ed up as spil l s to ~ ,

b e ignite d and th e n to b e blown out

, .

T h e nitre in th e pap er caus es a conti nuanc e o f slow

co m bustion , di ffusing du r i n g that ti m e the agr eeabl e
p e r fum e of th e odorifer ous gu m s If two of th ese .

sh eets of pap er b e press ed toge th e r b efore the surfac e

is dry , th ey will join and b eco m e as o n e Wh e n cut .

into slips th ey form what ar e call ed O dori fe rous

,

L ighte rs or P erfu m ed Spills

,
.
 R I RR O N OF B B UGE S . 26 1

R I E RON OP B RUO E S .

M ak e two tinctu r es in s eparate bo ttl e s , th us

NO . 1 B O TTLE .

O rr is tinctu re ,

Gum b en zoin ,

G um m yrr h ,

N O 2 BO TTL E
. .

L et both stand o n e m onth N o w take 1 50 yar ds o f undr ess ed

.

co tton tape and steep it in a solution O f o n e ounce o f saltpetr e in a

,

pint o f hot r ose water ; th en dr y it ; finally filter th e two tinctu r es

-
, ,

and m i x th em ; th en ste ep th e r ibbon into it ; wh en d ry coil it up , ,

and pl ace it in the vase D r aw out an inch o f th e r ibbon light it

.
, ,

blow o u t th e flam e and as it sm oulder s a fr agr ant vapor will r ise

, , ,

in to th e ai r Wh en the r ibbon has sm oulder ed down to th e bo ttom

.

o f th e vas e cup it w ill n o long er b u r n cons equ ently it S pontan eously

-
,
“ g oes o ut ” which is both ad vantag eo us and econo m i c al under so m e
,

I was l ed to this c ontr ivanc e fr om a knowl edge o f th e co n str uo

tion of th e D a vy Safety La m p whic h pr ev ents fi re fr om passin g a
,

sm al l aper tu r e i n co n sequ enc e of th e cooling effect o f th e sur r ound

,

ing body .
26 2 TE E ART or P E R P U N E R Y.

SEC TION X .

PE R F UM E D SO AP .

TE E word Soap or S op e from th e G reek sap on ,

, ,

first occurs in th e wo r ks of Pliny an d G al en Pliny .

inform s us that soap was fi r st discov ered by th e G auls ;

that it w as co m pos ed of tallow an d ash es , and that
th e G e rm an soap was re ckon ed th e b e st A c cording .

to Sis m ondi th e F r ench historian , a soap m ak e r was

,
-

includ ed in th e r etinu e of C har l em agn e .

At Po m p eii (ov erwh el m ed by an e ruption of V esu

v ins A D a soap boi ler s shop with soap in it was
’
-
. .

discov ered du r ing so m e excavations m ad e th er e not

m any y ears ago
*
.

Fro m th es e stat em ents it is evid ent that th e m anu

factu r e o f soap is of v ery anci ent ori gin ; ind eed Jere ,

m iah figurativ ely m entions i t For though thou ,

wash thee with natr on , and tak e th ee m uch so ap , y et

”
thin e i n iquity is m a r k ed b efor e m e (Jer 2 : As . .

“
doe s also M al achi : H e is like a r efi n er s fi re and ’
,
”
lik e fu ll ers Soap (Mal 3 :
’
. .

M r Wilson says that th e ear li est record of th e soap

.

trad e in E n gland is to b e found in a pam phl et in the

British M useu m printe d i n 1 6 41 , entitl ed A Shor t
,
“

”
A ccount of th e Soap Busin ess It sp eaks m o re par
.

ti c ul arl y about the duty , which was th en l evi ed fo r

the fi r st ti m e , an d conc er ning c e rtain pate nts which

S tar k e s L etter s fr om Italy

’
.
26 4 TE E ART OE P E R P U N E RP .

Th e pri m ary soaps ar e divid ed into hard and so ft

so aps : the ha r d soaps contain soda as th e b ase ; thos e
which ar e soft ar e p r epar ed with potash Th es e are .

again divisibl e into vari eti es , acco r ding to th e fatty

m atte r em ploy e d in th ei r m an ufac tur e, also acc ording

to th e propor tion of alkali T he m ost i m portant of

.

th es e to the p e rfu m e r is what is t erm e d curd soap ,

as it form s th e basis of all th e highly sc ente d so aps -
.

C U R D S OA P is a n e ar ly n e utr al soap of pu r e soda ,

an d fi n e tallow .

O IL S OA P as m ad e in England is an u ncolor ed
, ,

co m bination O f O live oil and soda ha rd , clos e grain , ,

and contains but littl e water in com bination .

C A ST IL E S OA P as i m porte d fr o m S pain , is a si m ila r

,

co m bination but is colored by p r otosulphate of i r on ,

,

th e sol ution O f th e salt b eing a d d e d to th e soap aft er

it is m anufactu r ed ; from th e p r es enc e of alkali d e ,

co m position O f the salt tak es pl ac e, an d protoxid e of

i ron is di ffus ed throu gh th e soap of its w ell know n -

black colo r giving th e fam iliar m ar bl ed app ea ranc e

,

to it . Wh e n the soap is cut up into ba r s , and ex

posed to th e ai r the p rotoxid e pass es by absorption
,

O f oxyg e n into p er oxid e ; h e nc e a s e ction O f a b ar of

,

C astil e soap shows the oute r edg e r ed m arbl ed whil e -

th e int erio r is black m arb l e d

-
S o m e C astil e soap is
.

not arti ficially colored but a si m ilar app earanc e is

,

p r oduced by the u se of a bar illa o r soda containing

sulphuret of th e alkalin e base and at oth er ti m es ,

fro m th e p r es e nc e of an i r on salt .

MA RI NE S OA P is a cocoanut O il soap , of soda con

-

taining a gr eat exc ess O f alkali , and m uch water in

co m bination .
 RE MELTING SO AP . 26 5

Y E L LO W S OA P is a soda soap of tallow, resin , and

,

l ard , &c .
,
&c .

PA L M S OA P is a soda soap O f pal m oil r etaining th e ,

p eculiar O do r an d color O f th e oil unchan ged T h e .

O d o r iferous prin cipl e of pal m oil r es em bling that

fro m orri s root can b e dissolv ed out of it by tinctura
,

tion with al cohol ; li ke ottos g en e rally it r em ains ,

intact in th e p r es enc e of an alkali ; h enc e, soap m ad e

of pal m O il r e tains th e O do r of the oil .

FIG S O FT S OA P is a com bin ation of oils principally ,

O liv e O i l of th e co m m on est kind , with potash .

NA PL ES S OFT S OA P is a fish oil ( m ixed with L ucca

O il ) and potash colored brown fo r th e L ondon shav e rs
, ,

r etaining wh en pure, its unsophisticated fishy

,

odo r.

Th e public r equi r e a soap that will not shrink and

change shap e after th ey pu r chase it It m ust m ake .

a p r ofus e lath er during th e act of washing It m u st .

not l eav e th e skin r ough after using it It m ust b e .

eith e r quit e in o do r ous or hav e a pl e asant aro m a

,
.

Non e of th e abov e soaps poss ess all th es e qualiti es in

u nion and , th er efo r e to p r od u
, c e such an ar ticl e is
,

th e O bj e ct of th e p er fu m er in his r em elting p r o c ess .

Th e abov e soaps consti tute th e r eal body or bas e

of all th e fancy sc ent ed soaps as m ad e by th e p er
fum e rs which ar e m ix ed and rem el te d accor ding to
,

th e following form ula .

R E ME LTI NG SO A P .

Th e r em g p r oc ess is e xceedingly si m pl e The

el ti n .

b ar soap is first cut u p into thin Slabs by pressing ,

th em against a wire fixed upon th e wo r king b ench .

This cutting wir e (piano wire is th e kind) is m ad e

23
26 6 TE E ART or P E R FU M E B Y.

taut u pon th e b ench by b eing attach ed to tw o screws .

T hes e screws regulate th e h eight of th e wire fr o m

th e b ench , and h e nc e th e thickn ess O f th e slabs fro m
th e bars T h e soap is cut up into thin Slabs b ec aus e
.
,

it would be n ext to i m possibl e to m elt a bar whol e ,

on account o f soap b eing o n e of th e worst conductors

Th e m lting pan is an iro n v ess el , of various Siz es ,

e -

capabl e O f holding fro m 28 lbs to 3 cwt , h eated by . .

a steam j ack et, o r by a water bath The soap is put .

into th e pan by d egrees or what is in th e v ernacular

, , ,
“ ”—
cal led rounds that is th e thin slabs are plac ed
, ,

p erp endicular ly all r ound th e sid e O f the p an ; a few

ounc es of water ar e at th e sa m e ti m e intr od uc ed th e ,

s team of which assists th e m elting Th e pan being .

cov ered up , in about half an hour th e soap will hav e

“ run dow ” A noth er r ound is th en introduc ed ,
n .

an d so continu ed ev e ry half hou r until th e whol e -

“ ”
m elting is finish ed T he m ore water a soap con
.

tains th e e asi er it is m elted ; h enc e a round of m arin e

,

so ap or of n ew y ellow soap will run down in half the

, ,

ti m e that it requi r es fo r Ol d soap .

Wh en diffe rent soaps ar e b eing r e m elte d to form

o n e kind wh en finish ed , th e vario u s so r ts ar e to b e

put into th e pan in alt er nate r ounds but each round ,

m ust consist only O f o n e kin d to insu r e u niform ity ,

O f condition A s th e soap m elts in o r d er to m i x it

.
, ,

and to b r eak u p lu m ps &c it is fr om ti m e to ti m e

, .
,
“ ”
crit icized . T h e crutc h is an instr u m e nt or to ol
fo r sti r ri n g up th e soap ; its na m e i s indicativ e of its
fo rm ,
a lo n g handl e with a short cross— an inve rted
c u r v ed to fit th e Curv e of th e pan Wh e n th e soap
J; .

is all m elt ed , it is th en colored , if so r equired, an d .

26 8 TE E ART or P E RP U E E Rr .

p retty w ell kn own , the gauge s are m ad e so that th e

soap cutte r c an cut up th e bars eith e r into fours
-

sixes or eights ; that is , eith er into squares of four

, ,

six , or eight to th e pound w eight L atterly , vario us .

n
Squari g Gauge .

m echan ical arran gem ents hav e b ee n introduced fo r

soap cutting which in v e ry la r ge establish m ents
-

, , ,

such as thos e at M arseill es i n France ar e great

, ,
”
e cono m i z e rs of labor ; but in England th e wire is
sti ll us ed .

For m aking tabl et shap es , th e soap is first cut

S oap Sc oo p .

into squares an d is th en put into a m ould and

, ,

finally under a press—a m odification of an ord inary

d i e or coin press Ball s are cut by hand , with th e
.
 SO A P P RE SS
-
. 26 9

aid of a littl e tool call ed a scoop m ad e of brass or ,

ivo ry , be ing in fact a ri n g shap ed knife Balls are

, ,
-
.

also m ad e i n th e pre ss with a m ould O f appropriate

T h e grotesqu e form and fruit shap e ar e

S oap Pr ess .

Obta in ed by th e p r ess and appr opriate m oul d s Th e .

fruit shap ed soaps afte r l eaving th e m ould , ar e dipp e d

-

in to m elted w ax and ar e th e n colore d according to

,

artifi cial fru it m ak er s rul es ’

.

”
Th e va r i egated colored soaps ar e produced by
ad ding th e various colo rs such as s m alt and v e r m il
,

ion , pre viously m ix ed with wate r, to th e soap in a

23 ’
2 70 m s Ax r
'
or p x a r u u an x.

m l te d state ; th es e colors are but slightly crutch e d

e

in , h enc e th e streaky app earan c e or party color of -

”
th e soap ; this kind is al so te rm e d m a r bl ed soap .

A L M O N D SO A P .

“ ”
Th is soap , by so m e p e rsons suppos ed to be
”
m ad e of s w eet al m ond oil and by oth ers to b e a ,

m ystic co m binatio n of sw ee t and bitte r al m onds is ,

in reality constitu ted th us :

Fi n est cur d soap 1 cwt
, .

14 lbs .

ar in e
m , 1 4 lbs .

O tto o f al m onds , 1 } lb .

cloves , lb .

car away , Q lb .

By th e ti m e that half th e curd soap is m elted the ,

m arin e soap is to be add e d ; wh e n this is w ell c r utch ed ,

th e n add th e oil soap , an d finish with th e rem aining

cu rd Wh e n the whol e is w el l m elted , and j ust b e
.

for e tu r ning it into th e fra m e crutch in th e m ix ed ,

p erfu m e .

“
So m e of th e soap hous es e nd eavore d to u se
M ir aban e or a r tific ial ess enc e of al m onds , fo r p er
,

fu m ing soap it b eing far ch eape r than the tru e otto

,

of al m onds ; but th e application has prov ed so n u

satisfactory i n p r actic e th at it has b een ab andon ed ,

by M e ssrs G ibbs Pin eau (of Paris), G osn ell and

.
, ,

oth er s who use d it .

Ga m m on SO AP .

C ur d soap , 28 lbs .

O tto o f r os em ar y , 1 } lb .

C am pho r , 1 1 lb .

R ed uce the cam phor to p owd e r by ru bbing it in a

2 72 r an A RT or r s ar u u s ar .

FU L a ’
s E s ar x S O A P
'
.

C ur d so ap ,

M ar in e soap ,

Fuller s ear th (baked )

’
,

O tto o f F re nch lav e nder ,

o r iganu m ,

Th e above form s ar e indicativ e of th e m ethod

ad opte d fo r p e rfu m ing soaps whil e hot or m elted .

A l l th e v e ry highly sce nted soaps are how ev er , ,

p erfu m ed cold in o r d e r to avoid th e loss of sc e nt

, ,

t w e nty p er c ent of p erfum e b eing e vaporate d by th e

.

h o t proc ess .

T he va r iously nam e d soaps fr o m th e subli m e Sul ,

” ”
tana to th e ridiculous Tu rtl e s M arro w , w e can
“ ’

n o t O f cours e b e e xp e c ted to notic e ; th e r e ad e r m ay ,

how e ver r est assu r ed that h e has lost nothing by

,
.

th ei r om ission .

T h e r ec eipts giv e n p r oduce only the fin est quality

of th e articl e nam ed Wh er e ch eap soaps ar e r e
.

quired n o t m uch acu m e n is n ec essary to disc ern that

,

by o m itting the exp ensiv e p e rfu m es or l esse ning th e ,

quanti ty , th e obj ect d esire d is attain ed Sti l l low er .

qualiti e s of sc e nte d soap are m ad e by using greate r

proporti ons of yellow soap and em ploying a v er y ,

co m m on cu rd , o m itting th e O il soap altogeth er .

SC E N TI N G Sou s H OT .

In the previous rem ar ks th e m ethods explain ed of ,

sc enting soap involved th e n ecessity of m elting it .

Th e high tem p erature of the so ap und er th es e circu m

stanc es involves th e obvious loss of a gr eat d eal of .

p er fu m e by evaporation With v ery highly scented .

soaps , an d with p e rfu m e of an expen sive ch aracte r ,

 S C E NT ING so a r s 2 73

the loss o f ottos is too great to b e born e in a com m e r

c ial se nse ; h e nc e th e adoption o f th e plan of

80 m 0 So u
s C onn .

This m eth od is exc eeding conv eni ent and econo m i

cal fo r sc e nting s m all batch es involving m erely m e
,

ch an i cal labo r , th e tools r equired b eing si m ply an o r

di n ary carp e nte r s plan e and a good m ar bl e m ortar

’

and lignu m v i tae p estl e .

Th e woodwork of th e plan e m ust b e fashion e d at

each en d so th at wh e n plac e d ov er th e m ortar , it r e
,

m ains fi r m and not easily m ove d by th e parall el pres

sur e o f the soap against its proj e cting blad e .

To com m e nc e op e rations w e tak e first 7 lbs , 1 4

, .

lbs , or 2 1 lbs of the bars of th e soap th at it is i n

. .

t end ed to p e r fu m e Th e plan e i s now laid upsid e

.

down across th e to p o f th e m ortar .

Things b eing th us arranged , the whol e of th e soap

i s to b e push ed across th e plan e until it is all r educ ed
into fi n e shavings L ike th e French C harbon ni er ,
.

w h o do es not saw th e wood , but woods th e saw , so it

will b e p er c eived that in this p r ocess w e do not plan e
th e soap but that w e soap the plan e, th e shavings of
,

which fal l lightly into th e m ortar as quickly as pro

d u c ed .

Soap , as gen erally r ec eived fr om the m ake r, is i n

prop er condition for thus wor king ; but if it has b een
in stock any tim e it b e co m es too hard , an d m ust have
fro m o n e to th r ee ounc es of distill ed water sprinkl e d
i n th e shavings fo r ev er y pound of soap em ploy ed , and
m ust l i e fo r at l east tw en ty four hours to b e ab so r b e d
-

b efore th e p e rfum e is add ed .

Wh e n it is d ete rm in e d what si z e the cak es of so ap

2 74 THE s a w or r s n r u u n av .

ar e to be what th ey ar e to sell for and what it is i n

, ,

ten ded th ey should cost, th en th e m aker can m eas

u r e out his p e rfu m e .

So p a ing th Plano
e .

In gen e ral soaps sc ente d in this way retail fro m

,

48 to 1 03 p er pound b earing about 1 0 0 p er cent

. .
,
.

profit whic h is not too m uch consid ering

,

li m ited sal e T he soap b eing in a prop er conditi o n

.

with r egar d to m oisture, &c is n o w to hav e th e p er

.
,

fu m e w ell sti rre d into it Th e p estl e is th en set to

.

work for th e proc ess of incorporation Afte r a .

”
coupl e of hours of warm exer cis e th e soap is
gen erally eicp ected to b e fr ee fro m str eaks , and to
b e of o n e uni form consiste nc e .

For p erfu m ing soap in large po r tions by th e cold

proc ess, instead of using th e p estl e and m ortar as an
incorporato r , it is m o r e conv eni ent and econo m ical
to em ploy a m ill si m ilar i n construction to a cak e
chocolate m il l , o r a flake cocoa m il l ; any m ec h an i
- -

c al apparatus that answ e rs fo r m ixing pas te and

crushing lu m ps will se r v e p r etty w ell fo r bl e nding

soap toge th er .

B efore b eing put into the m ill , th e soap is to be

reduc ed to shavings , and hav e the sc ent and color
2 76 THE AM or P E R FU M E B Y.

” “
s d for sc enting such as s pe rm ac e ti soap
u e ,
l em on ,
”
soap &c , which b eco m es of a b eautiful pal e l em on
,
.

colo r by th e m ere m ixing of the p erfu m e with the

curd soap (See C OLORS , S ection XIX )
. .

( 7b r etail at p er p ou m i .
)
C u r d soap ( p r eviously c olo red pink ) , 4} lbs .

O tto o f r ose, 1 o z.

Spi r ituous xtr act o f m usk

e ,
2 o z.

O tto o f santal , oz .

g er anium ,
oz .

M i x th e per fu m es s ti r th em in , th e soap shavings and beat ,

to
geth er .

T O N QU I N M u sx SO A P .

P al e
bro wn color ed cur d soap
-
,

G r ain m usk ,

O tto o f ber gam ot ,

B ub th e m usk with th e ber gam ot th en add it to , th e soap ,

beat up S hould be m ade six m onths befor e sold

. .

ORA NG E FL O WE R-
SO A P .

C urd oap
s ,

O t to o f n er oli ,

SA N r A L -
woon SO A P .

C urd soap ,

Ot to o f santal ,

ber gam ot ,

SPE R M AC E TI S O AP .

C urd soap , 14 l bs .

O tto o f ber gam ot ,

l em on ,
 S A P O NA OR O U S CRE AM OP A L M ON D S . 2 77

C IT RON SO AP .

C ur d soap ,

O tto o f cit r on zes te ,

v er be na (l em on gr ass ) ,
bergam ot ,

l em on ,

O ne of the b est of fancy soaps that is m ad e .

FR A N o xP A N I SO A P .

C ur d soap ( previously colo r ed pink ) , 7 lbs .

Ci v et , o z.
O tto o f n er oli , oz .

santal , 1} oz .

r ose , oz .

vi ti v er t ,
Q oz .

Rub th e civet with th e var ious otto s , m

ix, and beat i n th e usual
m anner .

PA TO HO U L Y S O A P .

C urd so ap ,

O tto o f patchouly ,

santal ,

v i ti v er t,

SA P O NA OROO s C RRA M OP A L MO N D S .

Th e preparation so ld u n d e r this titl e is a potash

so ft soap of l a r d It has a b eautiful p ea rly app ea r
.

ance an d has m et with ext e nsiv e d em and as a shaving

,

soap B eing also us e d in the m anufactur e of EM U L

.

S I NRs, it is an articl e o f no inconsid e rabl e co n sum p

tion by th e p erfu m er It is m ad e thus .

C lar ifi edl ar d ,

P otash l ye (containing 26 per c ent of causti c

.

potash ) ,

Rec ti fied S pir it ,

O tto of al m onds ,

M am p ulalz
bm — M elt th e lard in a porc elain vess el
24
2 78 THE ART or P E R FU M E B Y.

by a salt wat er bath or by a steam h eat u nd er 1 5 lbs

-
, .

pressure ; th en run in the lye very slowly, agitating

th e whol e ti m e ; wh en about half th e ly e is in , th e
m ixture b egins to curdl e ; it will , how ev er , be co m e

so fir m that it cannot b e stirred Th e c r em e is th en

.

fin ish ed , but is not pearly ; it wi ll , h ow ev e r, assum e

that app earanc e by long trituration in a m ortar ,
gradually adding th e alcohol , in which th e p erfum e
has b een dissolv ed .

S OAP P o wn xa s .

Th es e preparati ons ar e sold so m eti m es as a d e nti

fr i c e and at oth e rs for shaving ; th ey are m ad e by
reducing the soap into shavings by a pl an e, th en
thoroughly dryi n g th em in a warm situation , aft er
wards grinding i n a m i ll , th en p erfum ing with any
otto d esired .

RY PO P HA GO N SO AP .

B esty ellow soap equal pa r ts m e1ted togeth er

,

Fig soit soap

.

P er fu m e with ani se and c itr on ell a .

A M B ROS IAL C R E A M .

C olo r th e grease v ery str ongly with al kan et ro ot ,

th e n p roc eed as for th e m anufacture of saponac eous
c r e am
. T he cream color e d in this way has a blu e
tint : wh e n it is r equi r ed of a purpl e color w e have ,

m erely to stai n th e white saponac eous cr ea m with

anilin e to the shade d esired P erfu m e with otto of
.

English p epp erm int .

NA P LE S SR AVIN O S OA P .

This articl e is very m uch us ed and as a cons equ enc e

,

is in d em and : it can b e p erfu m ed either with otto o f

28 0 TE E AR T or PE B B U MB B Y .

as possibl e , th en dissolv e in alcohol , usi ng as littl e

spirit as will effect the solution , th en color and p er
fu m e as d esi r ed ; and cast the product in appropriate
m oulds ; finally d r in a war situation
y m .

U nti l th e l egislatu re allows spi r it to b e us ed fo r ,

m anufacturing purpos es , fr e e of duty , w e cannot c o m

p ete with our n eighbo r s in this articl e ; th e m ethylat ed

spirit has such an abo m inabl e odor that it c annot be
us ed for m aking sc en ted soaps for th e toil et .

ME DI CA T E D SO AP S .

In 1 8 5 0 I b egan m aking a s e ri es o f m edicated soaps,

such as S U L P H U R S OA P, IOD LN E S OA P , B ROM I N E S OA P,
C REA S OT E S OA P , M E RC U R IA L S OA P , C ROT ON O IL S OA P ,
and m any oth er s Th es e soaps ar e prepared by
.

adding th e m e dicant to cur d soap and th en m aking

,

in a tabl et fo rm fo r u se Fo r sulphu r soap the cu r d

.
,

soap m ay be m elted , and flow er s of sulph ur add ed

whil e the soap is in a soft condition Fo r anti m ony
.

soap and m er curial soap the low oxid es of th e m etals

,

e m pl oy e d m a also b e m ix ed in t h curd oap in a

y e s

m elte d stat e Iodin e, b r o m in e, creasote soap , and

‘

o th ers containing v ery volatil e substanc es ar e b est ,

prepar ed cold by shaving up th e cur d soap in a m o r

tar and m ixing th e m edicant with it by long b eating
, .

In ce rtain cutan eous dis eas es th e author has r eas on

to b eli eve that th ey will prov e of infinite s ervice as
auxili ari es to th e g en er al tr eatm ent It is obvious
.

that th e absorb ent vess els of th e skin ar e v ery activ e

dur ing th e l avato ry p r ocess ; such soap m ust not ,

th er efo r e b e us ed exc ept by th e sp ecial advic e of a

, , .

m edical m an .Probably th es e soaps wil l b e found

us eful for intern al application The preced ent of the
.
 SO A P ST ONE O R N Y L O S. 28 1

u se of C astil e soap (containing oxide of iron) rend ers

it likely that such soaps will find a pl ac e in th e pha r
m ac op csi as . T h e discov e ry of th e solubil ity , und e r
c ertai n conditions , of the active alkaloids , quinin e ,

m orphia ,
&c , i n o il , by M r W Bastick, g r eatly
. . .

favors th e suppositio n of analogo us co m pounds i n

so ap .

Som e forty or fifty years ago , th ere w ere s eve ral

kin ds of soap i m ported but which n owadays are
,

quite unknow n , such as Joppa soap S m yrna soap , ,

Jerusal em soap G enoa soap Alicant soap &c

, , ,
.
,

n early al l of which , how eve r , w er e m ad e o f oil as a

'

bas e .

J U N I P ER T A R SO A P .

This soap is m a e d fr om th e tar

of th e wood of th e
J un ip er us com m unis , by dissolving it in a fixed v ege
tabl e oil such as al m ond or O liv e oil , or in fi n e tallow
, ,

an d form ing a soap by m eans of a w eak so d a ly e after

the custo m ary m a n n e r This yi elds a m od erately
.
o

fi r m and cl e ar soap which m ay be re adily us ed by

,

applicatio n to parts affect e d with e ruptions at night , ,

m ix e d with a littl e wat e r , and car efully w ash ed o ff

th e following m o r ning This soap has lately b een

.

m uch us e d for eruptiv e disord ers , particu l ar ly on the

C ontin e nt and with varying d egrees of succ ess

, It .

is thought that th e effici e nt el em ent in its co m posi

tion is a rath er l ess i m pu r e hyd rocarburet than that
known in Paris und er th e nam e hm le de code O n
‘

account of i ts r eady m iscibility with water it pos ,

s ess es gr eat advantage ov er th e co m m on tar O intm ent .

S O A P S T ON E OE M Y L OS .

This is an i m po rtant a rticl e o f co m m e rc e in Tur k ey

"
24
28 2 THE A RT OP P E R FU M E B Y.

and Russia wh e re it is us ed as so ap h as b een analy z ed

, ,

by M L an d e r er th e result b ei n g— sil e x 6 3 ; alum ina

.
, , ,

2 3 ; water , 1 2 ; an d s esquioxid e of iron , This

m in e ral is of a grayish colo r , and has schistose frac

ture It can b e cut into shavings , and adh er es a littl e

.

to th e tongu e ; softens i n water, dis solving gradually

in it ; and afte rwards b ecom es white and gr easy to
th e to u ch It b eco m es gray again after d esiccation
. .

S O AP
PLA N T S .

Th ere ar e s ev eral plants th e j uic e s of which ar e

em ploy e d for washing but at p r es e nt th ey hav e no
,

pr actical application to th e toil e t though doubt l ess

,

th ey will hav e so soon as w e can obtai n a regular

28 4 TE E A RT OE P E RE U M E RP .

In the anu factu re of am an d i n e (and O livin e) th e

m

di fli c ul ty is to get in th e quantity of o il indicated ,

without which it do es not ass u m e that transpare nt

j elly app eara n c e which go od am andin e should have .

“ ”
To attai n this en d , the oil is put into a runn er ,

that is a tin or glass v ess el at th e botto m of which

, ,

i s a s m all fauc et and spigot o r tap T he oil b eing

,
.

put into this v ess el is allow ed to r u n slowly into the

m ortar in which the am andin e is b e ing m ad e, j ust as

fast as th e m ake r fin ds th at h e can inco r po rate it with

th e pas te of soap and sy r up ; and so long aS thi s tak es '

Oi l B a
-
nn er in E m ulsion Proc ess .

plac e th e result will al w ays hav e a j elly te xtu r e to the

,

hand If, how ever, th e Oi l b e put into the m orta r

.

quicker than the workm an can bl e nd it with th e paste ,

“ ”
th en th e p aste b ecom es oil ed , an d m ay b e con
“ ”
si d e r ed as don e for unl ess , ind e ed , th e whol e
,

p r oc ess be gon e through again , starting o ff with

fresh syrup and soap using up th e gre asy m ass as if
,
”
it w er e pu r e oil This liability to go o ff incr eas es
.

as th e am andin e n e a r s the finish ; h e nce ext ra caution

”
and pl enty of elbow gr eas e m ust b e us e d duri n g
th e addition of th e last two pounds of o il If the .
 O LI V IN E . 285

O il be not p erfectly fr esh or if th e tem p erature o f th e

,

atm osph er e b e abov e th e av er age of su m m er h eat ,

it will b e al m ost i m possibl e to get th e whol e of th e
oil giv en in th e form ula into com bination ; wh e n th e
m ass b eco m es bright and of a crystallin e lustr e it ,

will b e w ell to stop th e furth er addition o f oil to it .

This an d sim ilar com pounds should b e potted as

quickly as m ad e, and th e lids O f th e pots bande d
e ith e r with stri ps o f tin foil or pap er , to exclud e ai r
-
.

Wh en th e a m andin e is fill ed in to the jars , th e to p or

fac e of it is m ark e d or ornam ente d with a too l m ad e
to th e si z e of half th e di am eter of th e inte rior of th e
j ar in a si m ilar way to a saw ; a pi ec e of l ead or tor
,

to i se sh el l , b eing se rra te d with an angu lar fil e o r

.

pi ece of an old saw , will do v e ry w ell ; pl ac e th e

m ark e r o n th e am andin e, and tu r n th e jar g e ntly

round .

O Lv NE .

G umacac i a in powd er
, ,
2 oz .

H on ey , 6 oz .

Y olk o f eggs , in num ber 5

Wh ite soft soap ,
8 oz .

O liv e o i l ,
2 lbs .

G r ee n O il ,
1 o z.

O tto o f ber ga m ot ,
1 o z.

l em on ,
1 o z.

clov es , 1 oz .

thym e and cassi e each , , 3 dr ach m .

B ub th e gu m and hon ey toge th er unti l inco r por ated th en add ,

th e soap and egg H aving m ix ed th e g ree n oil and p er fu m es with

.

th e oliv e O il th e m ixtu re is to be placed i n the r unn er and th e

, ,

p r oc ess followed exactly as ind icated fo r a m andine .

28 6 TE E A RT or P E R E U M E R P.

HO NEY A N D A L M O N D P AS T E .

B itter al m onds bla nch ed and gr ound

, Q lb , .

H on ey , 1 lb .

Y olk o f eggs in nu m ber 8

A l m ond O il , 1 lb .

O tto o f ber ga m ot ,
oz .

clov es , l oz » .

B ub th e eggs and hon ey togeth er fi r st th en gr adually ad d th e o il , ,

and fi n ally th e g round al m onds and th e per fu m e .

A L M ON D PA ST E .

B itter al m onds , bl anch ed and ground ,

Ros e water ,
-

A lcohol (60 ov er pr oo f) ,

O tto of ber gam ot ,

P lac e th e gr ound alm onds and on e pint o f the r ose water into a -

stewpan with a slow and steady h eat cook the al m onds unti l th ei r ,

g ran ular textur e ass um es a pasty fo r m constantly sti r r ing the m i x,

tu r e dur ing th e whol e ti m e oth er wis e th e al m onds quickly bu rn to

,

th e botto m o f th e pan and i m par t to th e whol e an em py re u m atic

,

Od o r .

T h e la r ge quantity o f o tto o f al m ond which is volatili zed d ur ing

th e p r oc ess r enders it ess e nti al that th e oper ato r should avoid th e
,

vapor as m uch as possi bl e .

Wh en th e al m onds ar e n ear ly cook ed th e r em aining water is to ,

be added ; finally th e paste is put into a m or tar and w ell r ubbe d

, ,

with the pestle ; th en the perf u m e an d Spir it are ad ded B efor e .

potting thi s paste as w ell as hon ey paste it should be passe d

, ,

th r ough a m edium fin e si ev e to insur e un iform ity o f t extur e espe

, ,

c i al l y as al m onds d o n o t gr ind kindly .

O th er past es , such as P dte de P istache, P ate de

Cocos, P ate de G ui m prepared i n so si m ilar a
auve, are

m ann er to th e abov e that it is unn e c essa ry to say ,

m or e about th e m h ere than that th ey m ust not b e ,

confound ed with p r eparations bearing a si m ilar nam e

m ad e by confection ers .
28 8 TE E ART OE P E R E U M E RP .

For th e m ethods o f m ixing th e in gredi e nts see ,

”
A m andin e, p 28 3 . .

O n account o f th e high price of th e F r e nch oi ls ,

th ese preparations ar e exp ensive, but th ey ar e n u

doubtedly th e m ost ex quisite of cosm etics .

G LY C E RI NE JE LL Y .

White so ft soap , 4 oz .

P ur e glyceri n e , 6 o z.

A l m ond O il
8 lbs in sum m er
. .

4 lbs in wi nter
,
. .

O tto of thym e,

M i x th e soap and glycer ine i n a m or tar , gr adually add th e

o il in th e sam e way as fo r am andin e .
 M I L E S, OR E M U LSI ONS . 28 9

SE C T IO N XII .

M ILE S, OR E MU L S I ONS .

IN th e pe rfu m ery trad e , fe w articl es m eet with a

m or e r eady sal e than th at class of cosm eti cs d en o m i

u s ted m ilks . It has long b ee n k nown that n early al l

th e se eds of p lan ts which ar e call ed nuts , wh e n d ecor
ti cated and fre ed fro m th e ir pe llicl e , on b eing r educ ed
to a pulpy m ass and rubb ed wi th about fou r ti m es
,

th eir w eigh t of wate r produc e a fluid which has

,

ev ery anal ogy to cow s m ilk

’
T h e m i lky app ea r anc e
.

of th e se em ulsion s is d ue to th e m in ute m echan ical

division of th e O i l d er iv ed from th e nuts b eing dif
fus ed th rough th e water A ll th ese em ulsio n s posse ss
.

gre at ch em ical interest on account of th eir rapid d e

com position , and th e products em anating from th ei r
fe rm e ntation , espe ci ally that m ad e with sw eet al m onds
and pistachi os ( H istac hia new ) .

In th e m anu factu r e of various m ilks for sal e, car e

fu l m anipulation is o f the ut m ost i m portanc e, oth er
“ ”
w i se th es e em ulsions will not k eep ; h en ce m ore
loss than profit .

“ T r ansfor
m ation ta k es plac e in th e el em e nts o f

v egetabl e cas ein e (existi ng in seeds) fro m the very

m om en t that sw ee t al m onds ar e conv e rte d into al m ond
”
m ilk.
(L I EB I G ) This
. accounts for th e di ffi culty
m any p e rsons find in m aking m i l k o f alm onds that

do es not spo ntan eously divide, a day or SO after its

m anufac tur e .
2 90 TE E A RT OE P E R E U M E R Y.

“
Pure water is th e cosm etic p ar excellence ; but
water though al l suffi c i en t during p er fect h ealth is
,
-

m ostly insu ffici ent for th e inhabita nts of town s be ,

caus e th eir h ealth is ra r ely pe rfec t assail ed as i t is ,

by busin ess c ares , h eated roo m s , ill venti l ated public -

buildings and places of a m usem ent , and by a sul

h r o us atm osph e r e , cha rg e d with th e products of
p u

c o m busti on of gas and coal It is th erefore n ec essar y

.

that Art should co m e to th e aid o f Natu r e fr om who m ,

w e ar e too apt to d em and m o r e than sh e can giv e .

In th e op e n air n o l ess than within doo r s in walk

, ,

ing at balls or parti es at plac es o f public r esort in

, , ,

watching , and various ki nds of occupati on the skin ,

of th e fac e b ec o m es cha rged w i th im puriti es which

plain water will not r em ov e To restore th e skin to
.

its freshn ess to cor rec t th e evils of town life, and to

,

i m part to th e skin th e bloo m O f h ealth no cosm etic ,

can approach E m ulsion O f Ros es It cl eanses , softens .

,

and brigh tens th e skin , yet is as har m l ess as an A pri l

show e r on th e v erdu r e of spring In th e m an ufac .

tu re of E m ulsion o r M ilk of Ros es c areful m anipul a

tion is of th e utm ost i m portance .

M IL K or RO SE S .

V al entia al m onds (blanch ed ) ,

Rose water ,
-

A lcohol (60 ov er pr oo f) ,

O tto o f r ose
White wax sper m ac eti O il soap each
,

, , , ,

M an ip ulatiom — Shav e up th e so ap , and plac e it in a

v ess el that can b e h eated by steam or wate r bath ;
add to it two or three ounc es of ros e wate r Wh e n -
.

th e soap is p e rfectly m elted , add th e wax and sp e r

292 TE E ART OE P E B FU M E B Y.

tap init about a qu ar ter of an inch fro m th e botto m .

Afte r standing p e rfectly qu i et for tw enty four hours -

it is fit to bottl e A ll the above precau tions be ing

.

take n th e m i lk of ros es wil l keep any tim e without

,

prec ipitate or cream y sup ernatation Th es e di rec .

tions apply to all oth er form s of m i lk n o w giv en .

M IL K OP AL M O ND S .

B itter al m onds ( bl anch ed ),

D istill ed ( o r r ose) wate r ,
A l c ohol ( 60 ov er p r oof) ,

O tto of alm onds ,

l l

Wax sper m aceti al m ond

, ,

o i l c ur d soap , ,

M IL K or E LD E R .

S w eet al m on ds ,

E ld er flo wer wat er -
,

A lcohol (60 ov er pr oof)

ation
,

O i l o f elder flo w ers p r e par ed by m

-
, ac er ,

Wax sper m soap eac h

, , , ,

M IL K or D A NDE LI ON .

S weet al m on ds , 4 o z.

B o s e water ,-
1 pint .

E xp r esse d j uice of dandelion r oot , 1 oz .

8 o z.

G r een O il , wax cur d soap each

, , , i o z.

L et th e juice o f th e dandelion be per fectly fr esh p r essed ; as it is

in its elf an em ul sion it m ay be p u t into th e m or tar after th e
,

al m onds are br ok en up and sti rr e d with the water an d spir it in the

,

usual m ann er .

Th e im per ial m easu re onl y is r ecogn i zed am ong per fum er s .

 M I LE OE O U O U M R E R, a r e. 293

M IL K or C U OU M RER .

S w eet al m onds ,

E xpr essed j uice o f cucu m be rs ,

S pi r it (6 0 ov er p r oof) ,

E ss en ce o f cucu m be r s , i pint .

G r ee n O il wax cur d soap each

, , , , i o z.

Rais e th e j uice O f the cucu m bers to th e boiling po in t for half a -

m inute c ool it as quickly as possibl e th en st r ain th r ough

, ,

m uslin : p r oceed to m anip u late in th e usual m ann er .

MIL K OE PI S TACH I O N UT S .

P istachio nu ts ,

O r ange flo w er wate r
-
,

E sp r it n er oli ,

P al m soap g r ee n O il wax sperm ace ti each

, , , , ,

L A IT VIR O IN AL .

Rose water
-
, 1 quar t .

Tinctu r e Tolu , Q oz .

A dd the wate r v er y slowly to th e ti nctu r e ; by so doi n g an O pa

l esce n t m ilky fl uid is p r oduced which will r etai n its consiste ncy
,

fo r m any y ear s ; by r ev er sing this oper ation pou r ing th e ti nctu r e ,

into th e water , a cloudy p r ecipitate of th e r esinous m atter ensues ,

which does not again becom e r eadily suspe nded in th e water .

E X TRACT or E LD ER FLO W E RS .

E lder -
flo w er water ,

M anipulate as for Vi r gin s m ilk

’
.

S im
ilar co m pounds m ay , of cours e, be m a ed with
o r ange flow er and oth e r wate rs .
2 94 TE E A RT OE P E R P U M E R Y.

L O TI O N .

O r ange flo wer-
water ,

G lycer in e,
B o r ax ,

Dr S tartin stat es that this is an exc ell ent cosm etic

. .

Pure glyc e rin e is now extensiv ely use d as a r em edy

for chapp ed lips and a v ery us eful m ate rial it is ; how
,
“ ”
e v er b eing
, sticky it is v ery unpl easant to m any
,

p eopl e who give p r efer e nc e to the glyc eri n e j elly

, .

Pu r e glyc erin e is also u sed as a sort of ban d olin e

.
,

and fo r m aking th e hair glossy Sce nted with otto .

of ger aniu m o r ros e an d tinted with ani lin e, it is

‘

n o w sold un d e r th e nam e of m auv e oil .

2 96 TE E A RT OE P E R E U M E R Y.

M anipulation —In to a w ell glazed thick porc elai n

-

v essel which should b e d eep in preferenc e to Shal

,

low an d capabl e of holding twic e th e quantity of

,

cream that is to b e m ad e, plac e the wax and sp erm ;

now put the j ar into a boiling bath of water ; wh e n
th es e m aterials ar e m el ted , add th e oil , an d agai n o

subj ect the whol e to h eat until th e flocks of wax and

sp er m ar e liqu efi ed ; now r em ov e th e jar and con
te n ts and set it u nder a ru n n er contai ning th e ros e
,

wate r : th e ru nn er m ay b e a tin can with a s m all tap ,

at th e bottom , th e sam e as u sed fo r the m anu factu r e

of m ilk of r os es A stirrer m ust b e p r ovid ed m ad e
.
,

of lancewood flat and p e rfo r ated w ith hol es the S i z e

, ,

of a S ixp enc e, r es em bling in form a large pal ette

knife A s soon as the ros e water is set runnin g
.
-

th e cream m ust b e k ept agitated until th e whol e of

th e wat er h as pass ed into it ; now and th en th e fl o w
of wat er m ust b e stopp ed and th e cream which sets
,

at th e sid es of th e j ar scrap ed do w n , and i n c o r po

rated with that which r em ains fluid In winter .

ti m e i t is n ec essar y to slightly warm th e r os e water ,

,
-

oth er wise th e c r eam s ets b efore it is b eate n enough .

Wh e n th e whol e O f the wate r has b een incorpo r ated ,

th e c r ea m wil l b e cool eno u gh to po ur into th e jars
for sal e ; at that tim e th e otto of rose is to b e add ed .

T h e reason for th e p e rfu m e b e ing put in at th e last

m o m ent is obvious — th e h eat and subs equ e nt agita
,

tion would caus e unn ec essary loss by evapor ation .

C old c r e am m ad e in this way s ets quite fi rm ly i n th e

”
j ar s into which it is poured , and retains a fac e r e
s em bling pu r e wax, although o n e half is wate r r e
tai n ed in the in ter stic es of th e cr ea m Wh e n th e .

pots ar e w ell glaz ed it will k eep good fo r o n e o r

,
 oon n C RE AM . 2 97

two years If d esired for exportatio n to th e East or

.

W e st Indi es , it shoul d always b e s e nt out in sto p

pe r ed bo ttl es .

C OLD CR E A M or AL M O a
Is prepared precisely as the above ; but in th e pl ace
of otto of roses , otto o f alm onds is used .

V IO LE T C on n C RE A M .

V iol et W ate l -
'

, o o o 1 lb .

W ax and sperm aceti , ea ch ,

1 o z.

O tto of al m o n ds , 5 dr ops .

This is an el egant p r epar ation , and gen erally ad m i red .

T U E E RE U S E, JA s E , A ND FLE UR D O RA N G E
’

C O LD CR EA M S ,

A r e pr epared in a si m il ar m an n er to th e abov e viol et ;

th ey ar e al l v ery exquisite p r eparations , but as th ey
cost m o r e than r ose cold c r eam , p er fu m ers ar e n o t
m uch incl i n ed to intr oduce th em in li e u of th e latte r .

C A M PE O R C on n CREA M ( o th e r wi se Ca m ph or I c e) .

A lm ond oi l , 1 lb .

B ose water
-
, 1 lb .

W ax and sperm aceti , 1 oz.

C am phor , 2 o z.

O tto o f r osem ar y ,
l dr ach m .

M elt th e c am phor wax and sper m , , , i n th e o il , t h en m anipulate

C U OU MR E R Co m ) CRE A M .

Alm ond o il ,

G reen o il ,

J uice o f cucum ber s ,

Wax and spe r m each , ,

E ssence of cucu m ber ,

2 98 THE A RT or P E B B U M E B Y.

If in youth w e w ere m ore car efu l , it is c ertain that

as w e p r ogress onward in the journ ey of life the ex ,

c ep ti o n would b e to see a p e rson with th e ski n dull

at an age w h en it ought to hav e th e m ost youthful

fr eshn ess T he troubl e of pres ervation is far m ore
.

si m pl e agreeabl e, and effectual , than that of r esto ra

,

tion to which it is n ecessary to hav e r ecou r s e in o r d er

,

to r epair th e wrongs of a car el ess n egligenc e F r eckl es .

ar e consid er e d by th e m ajo r ity as ini m ical to b eauty ;

w e how e v er , ar e of th e m i no r ity and rath er ad m i r e

, ,

th em Th ey are th e r esult o f the interm inglin g of

.

rac e of th e dark blood of th e S outh with th e fai r

,

Saxon It is positive that th ey i n dicate exub e rant

.

h ealth— and what is m o r e b eautiful th an th e h ue of

h e alth ! A s th e su m m e r advanc es , fr eckl es app ea r .

If th e skin is expos ed to th e sun it is d ar k en ed lik e ,

a ch erry or a p each that is rip ening Th e effect of .

th e sun upon a d elicat e ski n is v ery rapid , an d it b e

com es su nbu r nt which in m any instanc es p r oduces
,

inconveni en c e, attend ed with slight p ain O f th e .

various cosm eti cs inv ente d for preventing and rem edy
ing this e vil C uc um b er C r eam b ea r s a j ust r eputation
, .

T h e cucu m b er j uic e is r eadily obtain e d by subj e ct

-

ing th e fr uit to p r essu r e in the ordinary ti ncture p r ess .

It m ust b e raised to a tem p eratu r e high enough to

coagulate th e s m al l portion of albu m en which it con
tains and th en strain ed through fi n e lin en A s th e
, .

h e at is d etri m ental to th e od o r on account of th e ,

gr eat volatility of th e otto of cucu m b er , th e follow ing

m ethod m ay b e adopt e d with advantag e :
\

S lice the fru it v ery fi n e with a cucu m ber c utter and plac e th em
-

in th e oil ; after r em aining togeth er fo r tw enty four hou r s r epeat -

,

th e oper ation using fr esh fr uit i n the str ai n ed o i l ; n o warm th is

,
800 THE ART or PER FU M E RY .

PO M AD E D I V I NE .

Am ong the thou sand and o n e qu ack nostru m s , po

m ad e divin e, lik e Jam es s powd er , h as obtain e d a
’

reputation far abov e th e m o st sanguin e exp ectati ons

of its concocters This articl e stric tly b elongs to th e
.

druggist b eing sold as a rem e dial agent ; n everth el e ss

,

what is sold i s al m ost always v end ed by th e p erfu m er .

It is pre pared thus :

S per m aceti , lb.

L ar d , lb .

Alm ond o il , 1 lb.

G u m ben z oin 1 lb
»
.

V anilla beans , 1 } oz .

D igest th e whol e in a v essel h eated by a water bath at a tem per a

tu r e not exceeding 90 C A fter fi v e or six hour s it is fit to str ain
°
.
,

an d m ay be po ur ed into th e bottl es for sal e .

( M ust b e stam p ed if its m edi cinal qualiti es ar e s tated )

, .

A L M O N D B AL L s .

P u ri fi edsu et ,

White wax ,

O tto o f al m on ds ,

clov es ,

CA MP H OR B AL L s .

P u r ifi ed u t
s e ,

White wax ,

C am phor ,

O t to o f F r ench lav ender o r r ose m a r y ,

Both the abov e articl es ar e sold , e ith er white or

colored with alkan et r oot Wh e n tho r oughly m elted ,.

the m aterial is cast in a m ould ; ounc e gallipots with

sm ooth bo ttom s answ er v ery well fo r casting in .

Som e v en do rs use only large pil l box es -

.
 LIP -
S ALVE . 301

CA MP H OR P A S T E .

A l m ond oil ,

P u r ifi ed
lar d , 1 l b » .

Wax sp er m ac eti an d cam phor each

, ,1 oz , , .

B eat up th e ing r edi ents as th ey cool b efore pour ing o u t ,

.

G LY CE R I N E B A L S A M .

White wax and sp erm aceti each , ,

A l m ond oil ,

O tto of r os es ,

W e cannot h er e discuss the r em edial action of any

of the above prepar ations ; in giving th e fo r m ul se it ,

i s enough for us that th ey ar e in d em and by th e

public .

FI N E Ro sa L IP SA L V E -
.

A l ond oi l
m ,

S pe r maceti and wax each , ,

A lkan et r oot ,

O tto o f r os es ,

P lac e th e wax s per m oil and alkan et r oot into a v essel h eated
, , ,

by steam o r water bat h ; after th e m ater ials are m elted th ey m ust

-

digest o n the alkan et to e xtr act its color fo r at l east fou r o r fi v e

, ,

hour s ; finally str ain th r ough fi n e m usli n th en add th e per fu m e

, ,

just befo r e it cools .

W H IT E L IP SA L V E -
.

A l m ond oil ,

Wax and sper m aceti each , ,

O tto o f al m onds ,.

ger anium ,

A fter lip salve is pou r ed into th e pots and b eco m

-
e

cold a r ed hot i r on m ust be h eld ove r it fo r a m inute

,
-

o r so in ord er that th e h eat r adiate d fro m

,
th e i ro n
26
302 TE E ART OE P E RF U M E RY .

m ay m e lt th e surfac e of th e salve and giv e it an eve n

fac e .

S AL V E
C HE R RY L I P
-
.

This is m ad e in th e sam e way as th e fi n e ros e li p

salve with this di fl er en ce ,— that th e sc ent consists of
'

o n e drach m e ach of otto of bay and otto O f al m onds .

S AL VE
C OMM ON L I P -

Is m ad e si m ply of equal parts of lard and su et , col

o r ed with alkan et root, and p e rfu m ed with an ounc e
of b er gam ot to ev ery pound of salv e .
8 04 TE E ART or P E B B U M E RY .

Now , oili n g th e hai r b esid es m aking it glossy and

,
“
so ft h as the infi n i te b e n efit o f re nd e ring it unin
,

habitabl e ; a consid e rati on too often n egl ec te d in

schools and si m ilar institutions
, .

T he na m e of po m atu m is d e riv ed from p om um an ,

appl e b ecaus e it was o r iginally m ad e by m ac er ating

,

ov e r rip e appl es i n greas e

-
.

If an appl e b e stuck all ov er with spic e such as ,

clov es th e n expos e d to the air fo r a few days an d

, ,

afte rwards m ac erat ed in puri fi ed m elted lard or an y ,

oth er fatty m atter th e greas e will b ecom e p erfu m ed

, .

R ep eating th e op eration with th e sam e greas e s ev eral

“ ”
ti m es produc es r eal po m atu m .

A cco r ding to a r e cip e publish ed m ore than a

c entu ry ago th e fo rm giv en is
,

Kid s gr ease an o r ang e sliced pippins a glass o f r ose water and

’
, , ,
-

half a glass of white win e boil ed and s tr ain ed and at last spr inkl ed
, ,

with O i l o f sw eet al m onds .

“
The a u thor , D r Q uincy , O bs e rv es that th e appl e
.
,

is of no significanc e at all in th e r e cip e and lik e , ,

m a n y a u thors of th e p r es e nt day , conclud e s that th e

r ead er is as w e ll acquaint ed with th e subj ect as th e

writ er and th e refo re consid e rs that th e w eights o r
,

b ulk of th e m ater ials in his r e cip e ar e l i kewis e of no

significanc e .

P erfu m e rs acti n g by exp eri enc e o r D r Q ui n cy s

, .
’

advic e , pay no r egard to th e appl es i n th e prepa ration

of po m atu m , but m ak e it by p er fu m ing la r d o r su et ,

o r a m ixtur e of wax sp er m ac e ti and O il o r so m e of

, , ,

th em o r all bl end ed to p r oduc e a pa r ticula r r esult

, ,

acco r ding to th e n am e that it b ea r s .

T h e m ost i m portant th i n g to co n sid er in th e m anu

 SC EN TLE SS G RE A S E . 3 05

factu re of po m atu m &c is to sta r t o ff with a perfec tly

, .
,

inod or ous g r eas e what e ve r that g r e as e m ay b e

, .

Inodo r ous lar d is obtain e d thus

Tak e say 2 8 l bs of p erf ec tly f r esh lar d pl ac e it i n a w ell gla zed
, , . ,
-

v essel that can be subm itted to th e h eat of a boiling salt water

,
-

bath o r by steam under a slight p r essu re ; wh en th e lar d is m elted

, ,

add to it o n e ounce of powdered alu m and two ounc es of tabl e salt ;

m ainta i n th e h eat fo r so m e ti m e in fact til l a scu m r is es consist
, , ,

ing i n a g r eat m easu r e of coagulated pr o tei n s co m pounds m em ,

b r an e & c which m ust be ski m m ed o fl wh en the liquid g reas e ap

, .
,
'

p ea r s O f a unifor m natu r e it i s allow ed to g r ow cold

, .

Th e la r d is now to b e wash ed This is don e in s m all po r tions at

.

a ti m e and is a wor k of m uch labo r which how e v er is am ply r e

, , , ,

paid by the r esult A bout a pound of th e g r ease is now placed on

.

a slate sla b a littl e on th e inclin e a supply of good water be ing set

, ,

to t r ickl e ov er it ; th e su r face of the g reas e is th en c onstantly

n ew ed by an Ope r ative wor king a m ull er ov er it p r ecis ely as a ,

colo r m ak er g r in ds pain ts in oil In thi s way th e wa ter r em ov es

-
.

any tr ac es of alu m o r salt al so th e last traces of nit roge nous m atter

, .

F inally the g r eas e wh en th e whol e is wash ed in this way is r e

, , ,

m elted th e h eat being m aintain e d e noug h to d r iv e o ff any ad h e r

,

ing wat er Wh en cold it is finish ed

. .

A lthough pu r ifying g reas e i n this way is troubl e

so m e,and tak es a good d eal of ti m e y et unl ess don e , ,

S O it is totally unfit for p e rfu m ing with flow er s b e

, ,

caus e a bad gr eas e will cost m ore i n p e rfu m e to cover

i ts m al odeur than th e exp e ns e o f thus d eodori z ing it .

M o r eov e r i f la r d b e us e d that s m ells of th e pig

, ,

it is n ext to i m possibl e to i m part to it any d e licate

O do r ; and if st r ongly p er fu m e d by th e addition of

ottos th e u n p u ri fi ed g reas e wil l not k e ep but quickly

, ,

b eco m e rancid U nd er any circu m s tanc e s th er e fore ,

.
,

gr eas e that is not p erf ectly in od or ous is a v ery exp e nsiv e

m at er ial to u se in th e m anu facture of po m ad e s .

In th e S outh and fl o w e r g rowi n g countri e s wh er e -

the fi n e po m ad es ar e m ad e by E NFLE U RA GE , or by
"
26
3 06 TE E AR T or P E B FU M E B Y .

MA C E RAT I ON, th e pu rification of g re as e fo r th e p u r

pos e O f th es e m anufactu r es is of su ffici ent i m portanc e
to b eco m e a s eparat e t r ad e .

The pu rification of b eef an d m ut ton su e t is in a

g re at m easu r e th e sa m e as that for lard : th e g re ater
solidity O f su ets r equir es a m echanical arrang em ent
fo r washi n g th em of a m o r e pow erful natu r e than
can b e appli e d by hand labo r M r Ew en , of C ar . .

lick H ill who is an extensiv e la r d and fat p ur ifi er in

,
-

L ondon , e m p l oys a ston e roll e r ro tating upon a c i r

c u l ar slab ; m otion is giv e n to th e r oll e r by an axl e

which pas s es th r ough th e c e ntr e of th e slab , o r rath e r

s ton e b ed upon which th e su et is plac ed ; b eing high e r
,

in the c e ntr e than at the s id es , the stream of water

flows away aft e r it has onc e pass ed ov e r th e su et ; i n
o th e r resp ects th e treatm e nt is th e sam e as for lard .

Th es e g r eas es us ed by p erfu m ers hav e a gen e ral titl e

”
of body tanta m ount to th e F r e nch n om enclature
,

of corp s ; thus w e hav e pom ad e s of h ar d corps (su et) ,

po m ad es of soft corps (la rd) Wh e n d rawi n g ex traits

.

fr o m th e e n fl euraged gr eas e such as extr ai t d e v i e

,

l ette j as m in th e pom ad e s of har d co r ps ar e to b e

, ,

preferred ; b ut wh en sc ented po m ad e is to be us e d
in th e fabri c ation of ungu e nts for th e hair po m ad es ,

o f so ft corps ar e th e m ost u seful .

T he following proc ess of pu rifying gr e as e prior to

e n fl eu rage h as b ee n e xp r e ssly writt e n fo r this wo r k

by M A ugust e B erm o n d , of Nic e

.

EPU RA TI O N D E S GRA I S S E S .

C h oisiss ez l es gr aisses toujo ur s l es plus fr ai c h es en 6 tant toutes

,

l es fi br es et p etites peaux qui pe uv e nt l es c o r r o m p r e .

P ou r cinquante kil ogs d e gr aisse

. V ous la coupez par m or
.
-

ceaux ensuite vous la pil ez dans u n m o r ti er en pi er re o u m a r br e

, ,
3 08 TE E ART or P E RF U M E RY .

be p r od uced ; finally th e gr ease is put into d eep pans and wh e n ,

c old tak e n ca r efully o ff th e s edi m enta r y wat er i t is th en fit fo r use ,

and m ay be k ept fo r an ind e finite per iod without C hange o r tu r n ,

i ng r ancid .

It will b e obs erved that th e prin cipal featu r e in this

p r oc ess is the u se of th e b en z oin .

Dr R edwood has r ece ntly di re ct ed th e att ention of

.

ch e m ists to the fact that c e r tain ointm ents pa r ti e n

*
,

l arly z inc O int m e nt will not b e co m e rancid i f a littl e

, ,

um b en z o in o r b e n z oic acid is add e d to it wh e n

g , ,

m ad e ; that such is th e cas e th e r e is littl e doubt ; fo r

,

it has b e e n r e m ar ke d that th e p r epa r ed fat u s ed by

th e flo w e r fa r m ers i n th e proc e ss of en fl e u r age will
rem ain sw e et fo r so m e y ea rs p rovid ed that i t b e di ,

gested fo r a ti m e ove r g um b e n z oin i n the p r oc ess ,

o f i ts u r i fi c ati o n a p r actic e th at has b e e n g e n e r

p
-

ally w o rk ed fo r this c entu ry , at G r ass e , C an n es and ,

Nic e It th e refo r e b eco m e s only a qu estion of e x

.

i n t to d et e r m i n e wh eth er b e n z oi n b e a t r u e
p e r m e ,

antis eptic to all fatty bodi es .

T h e m ethod of p e rfu m i n g g r eas e by th e di r ect

p r oc ess with flow er s having already b ee n d esc r ib ed ,

und er th e r esp ectiv e n am es of th e flo w e r s that i m

pa r t th e O do r th er eto it r e m ains n o w only to d e
,

sc ri be thos e co m pounds that ar e m ad e fr o m th e m ,

togeth er with such incid ental m atter c o nn ected with

this b ranch of p e rfu m ery as has not b e e n p r eviously
m e ntion ed .

OIL o r B E N O R B E E E N .

U ndoub te dly this is th e fin est fat oil which a p er

fu m er co uld u se ; it is n e a r ly fr ee fr o m colo r is taste ,

P ha r m c utical J ou r nal vol xiv

a e , .
,
No 5
. .
 OIL or BEN . 3 09

l ess and inodorous it r em ains for a l en gth en ed p e

,

r i o d fr ee fr o m rancidity , ind eed so m e authors say it

, ,
” —
n ev er b eco m es ran cid a sam pl e which I hav e
,

plac ed i n a position in which all oth e r O ils would

b e spoilt i n a y ear is still p erfe ctly sw eet though
n early six y ears old A t o n e p eriod th e oil of h en
.

constitute d a valuabl e branch of co m m e rc e with th e

East but exc essive i m posts and e xt e nsive adult e ra
,

tions th r ew it out of th e m ark et

, .

In th e hop e o f resto r ing so valu abl e an articl e to

its m erited position I am induc e d thus to Sp eak of a
,

co m m odity though non e o f it can at th e p r es ent ti m e

,

b e co m m er cially obtain ed Th e Oil is yi eld ed by ex

.

pression fr om th e s eeds o f th e M on hga P terygosp en na

o r o il of b eh e n tr ee n o w n atu r ali z ed i n th e W est
,

In di es Th e s ee ds ar e said to yi eld tw enty fi v e p er

.
-

c ent of oil which at a pric e say of fi v e guin eas a hu n

.
,

d r e d w e i g h t —th e pr e s e nt m a r k e t va l u e of sw ee t al

m ond o i l— would surely O fl er su ffi ci ent m er cantil e i n

'

d uc em e n t for its p r oduction ; but th er e is ev e ry r e a

son to b eli ev e that i t would reali z e n ev e r l e ss than
£ 1 0 p er cwt in th e op e n m a r k et
. For m aking cold
.

c r ea m and all kinds of ungu ents it would prov e i n ,

valuabl e an d without a co m p etitor Supposing that .

“ ”
it would not pay its p r oduc e rs to ship it in its
n atu r al state th ey could en fl o w er it , by th e proc ess
,

desc r ib ed at p ag e 71 with th e flow er s of th e plu m eria ,

,

acacia jas m in gr an d iflo ra an d pancratiu m , and n u

,
-

m er o us oth er flow e rs which abound an d bloo m u n re

ga r d ed : it would th en yi eld six to ei g ht shillings a

pound !
PA RA FF I N E that is , the tru e solid waxlik e inodorous
,

substanc e procu r abl e by low distillation of b oghead

31 0 THE ART or PEB FU M E R Y .

m in e r al Irish bog p eat &c &c is an articl e that will

, ,
.
, .
,

find s ev er al us es in p er fu m ery in plac e of b eeswax .

I hav e said it is waxlik e ; but in tr uth , o n account o f

i ts c rystalli n e ch aracter , it r es em bl es m o r e sp er m ac eti ,
and has also th e s em i tr anspa r ency of that body -
.

Y oung s Pat ent P arafli n e C o m pany hav e ge n e rously

’

suppli ed m e with som e fi n e sam pl es O f the sp er m like -

p a ra fli n e which th ey say can b e supp l i e d i n quantity

,

at 1 8 5 d p er lb This b eing 40 p er c ent ch eap er

. . .
, .

tha n wax will of a c e rtainty find its own m ark et

, .

F ro m a vari ety of exp eri m ents I conclud e that p ar ,

adi n e is a valuabl e adj unct to p erfu m er y in th e m anu ,

factur e O f po m ad es &C , which hav e to b e export ed ,

.

to hot cl i m at es .

AC A C IA P OM AD E , co m m only call ed OAS SI E P OM ATU M ,

is m ad e with a pu r ifi ed bod y gre as e by m ac eration -

with th e littl e round y ello w fl o w er h eads of th e A cacia -

Fam eszana S ee C A S S I E , pag e

’

(
*
.

Black cu r r ant l eav e s and which th e F r e nch t erm

-

cassi s hav e an O do r v ery m uch r es e m bling cassi e

,

( aca c ia
) and ar e,
us e d ext e nsiv e ly fo r adult e r ating th e

t r u e acacia po m ad es and oils T h e n ea r si m ila r ity of .

n a m e th e i r anal ogous O do r (although th e plants hav e

,

n o botanical conn e ction ) tog ethe r wi th th e wo r d cassia , ,

a fa m ilia r p er fu m e in England has p r oduc ed ge n e rally ,

confus ed id eas in this country as to th e t r u e o ri gin of

th e odo r now u nd er discussion C assi e cassis cassia .
, , ,

it wil l b e und e r stood now ar e th r ee distinct sub stan ,

c e s ; an d in ord er to r end e r the m atte r m o r e p er sp i c

non e i n future th e m at erials wil l always b e d en o m i

,

n ated A C A C IA if p r epar e d fr o m th e A cac ia Farrz

,
esian a

I hav e pl ac ed a fe w of th es e plants i n the B otanic G ar d ens , Re

gent s P a r k and som e s eeds hav e been planted at Ke w
’
, .
31 2 TE E A RT or P E R F U M E RY .

Th es e pom atu m s and oils to g eth e r with th e F r ench ,

po m ad es and huil es al r eady d escrib ed constitute th e ,

f oun da tion of th e p r e pa r ations ofall th e b e st hair gr eas e s -

sold by p erfu m e rs Infe rior sc e nt ed po m atu m s and

.

oils ar e p r epare d by p er fum ing lar d su et wax , O i l , , ,

&c , with various ottos ; th e r esults how ev er , in m any

.
,

i nstance s m ore e xp ensiv e than the fo r egoing ar e ac ,

tu al ly inferior i n th eir O dor or bou qu e t ; for grease,

how ev er slightly p erfu m e d by m ac er ation o r en fleur
age with flow er s is far m or e ag r eeabl e to th e O lfac
,

tory n e rv e than w h en sc e nted by ottos .

Th e fol l owing na m e d gr eas es hav e obtain ed gr eat

popul arity m ainly b ecaus e th eir p erfu m e is lasting
,

and flow ery .

P O M A D E CA LLE D B E A RS GRE A S E ’
.

“ ” ’
T h e m ost popular and o r iginal b ears greas e is
m ad e thus :
H uil e d e r ose ,

d or ange
fl eur '

o f each
,

acac ia ,

tuber eu se and jas m in ,

A l m ond oil ,
1 0 l bs .

Lar d ,
1 2 lbs .

A cacia pom ad e ,
2 l bs .

O tto of be r ga m ot ,
4 oz .

C lov es ,
2 oz .

M elt th e solid gr eases and oils togeth er by a water bath th en -

add th e ottos .

B ears g r eas e thus p r epar ed is j ust hard enough to

’

“ set ” in th e pots at a su m m er h eat In v ery war m .

w eath er or i f r equi r ed for exportation to th e East or

,

W est Indi es it is n ec essary to u se i n part F r ench po

,

m atu m s inst ead of O ils , or m or e lar d and l ess al m ond

oil .
 C RY S T A L L I ZE D O I L. 31 3

C I RCA S S I A N CRE A M .

P ur ifi ed lar d
B e n oi n
z su et ,

French r ose pom atu m ,

A l m ond o i l colo r ed with a l kan et

, ,

O tto o f r ose ,

B AL S A M or FLO WER S .

Fr ench r ose pom atu m , 12 o z.

iol et pom atu m

v ,

A l m ond oil ,

O tto o f be r gam ot ,

C RY S TAL L IzE D OIL . F

( i r st qu ality ) .

H uil e d e ose
r ,

tuber eus e ,

fi eur d o r ange ’

S perm ac eti ,

( S eco nd qu ali ty ) .

A l m ond ,
2} lb .

S pe r m aceti ,

O tto O f l em on , 8 oz .

M elt th e sper m ac eti In a v essel h eated by a water bath th en add -

,

th e oils ; continu e th e h eat u ntil all flocks disappe ar ; l et th e ja r s

into which it is pou r ed be war m ; co ol as slowly as possibl e to ,

i nsu r e good c rystals ; if cool ed r apidly the m ass congeals without ,

th e appear anc e o f c r ystals .

This p r epar ation h as a v ery nic e app e ar anc e and ,

so far s ells w ell ; but its continu ed use for anointin g

th e hai r r end ers th e h ead scu rfy ; ind eed the c rystals
O f sp e rm m ay b e co m b e d out of th e hair in flak e s

after it has b een u s ed a w e e k o r two .

C A S T OR OIL P O M A T UM .

Tuber euse po m atu m ,

C asto r Oil ,

A l m ond oil ,

O tto o f b erg am ot ,
314 TE E A RT or P E B FU M E R Y.

B A LS A M or N E R O LI .

F r ench r ose po m atu m ,

jas m in e po m atu m ,

A l m ond oil ,

O tto o f n er oli , l d r ach m

M ARRO W C REA M .

P u r i fi ed la rd ,

A l m ond o i l ,

P al m Oi l ,

O tto of clov es ,

ber ga m ot ,

l em on ,

M A RRO W P O M A TU M .

P u r ifi ed lar d , 4 lbs .

u su et , 2 l .

O tto O f l em on , 1 oz .

be rga m ot ,
oz .

clov es , 8 d r ach m s .

M elt th e g r eases ; th en beat th em up with a whisk or flat wood en ,

S patula fo r half an hou r o r m o r e ; as th e gr ease cools

,
m inute ,

v esicl es of ai r are inclos ed by th e po m atu m which not only inc r ease ,

th e bulk of th e m i xtu r es but i m pa r t a peculia r m ec h aii i c al aggr e

,

g a ti o,
n r e nd er i n g th e po m atu m light and spongy ; in this stat e it is
Obvious that i t fills out m o r e po ts than oth er wise and h e nce is m or e ,

p r ofitabl e .

CO M M O N V I O LE T P O M A T UM .

P u r i fi ed lar d ,

Washed acacia po m atu m ,

r ose po m atu m ,

M anipulate as fo r m a r r ow po m atu m .

In all the ch eap pr epa r ations fo r th e hai r , the

m anu facturing p e r fu m er s u se th e washed F r e nch p o

m atu m s and th e wash e d F r e nch O ils fo r m aking th ei r

greas es Wash ed po m atum s an d wash e d O ils ar e

.
318 TE E A RT or PE RF U M ERY .

SEC TION X V .

H AI R D YE S
-
AN D D E P ILAT ORY .

BY way of p ersonal ad o r n m ent few practic es ar e ,

of m ore anci ent o rigin than that of painti ng th e fac e ,

dy e ing th e hai r , and black ening th e ey ebrows and

ey e lash es .

It is a practic e univ ersal am ong the wo m e n o f th e

.

high er and m iddl e class es in Egypt and v ery co m m o n ,

am ong thos e of th e low er ord e rs to black e n th e edge ,

o f th e ey elids , both above and b e low th e ey e with a ,

black powd er which th ey t e r m ed kohol Th e k o hol

,
.

is appli ed with a s m all p r ob e of wood , ivo ry o r silv er , ,

tap e ring towar ds the e n d , but bl unt This is m oist .

e n e d som eti m e s with ros e wat er th e n dipp e d in th e

-

powder , an d d r awn along the edg es of the ey elids .

It is thought to give a v e ry so ft exp r ession to th e ey e ,

th e si z e of which in app e ar anc e it enla rges ; to w hich

, ,

ci r cu m stanc e p r obably , Jer em iah r efers wh e n h e

,

w rit es Though thou r entest thy fac e (o r thin e eyes)

,

with painting i n vain shalt th e n m ake thys elf

,

A singula r custo m is obs e r vabl e both am ong M oor

ish and A rab fem al e s — that of o r n am enting th e fac e
,

b etw ee n th e ey es with cl u ster s of bluish Spots o r oth e r

s m all d evic es which b eing stain ed b e co m e p e r m a
, , ,

n ent Th e chin is also spott e d in a si m ilar m ann er ,

.

J er . 4 40 . S ee also Lan e s M o d er n
’
E gyptians , vol i p
.
, . 41 ,
e t seq.
 A RA B I A N AN D P E RS I A N D YE S . 31 9

and a na r r ow blu e lin e ext en ds fr o m th e point of it ,

and is continu e d down th e th r oat T h e ey elash es .
,

ey eb r ows and also th e tips and extr em iti es of th e

,

ey elids ar e colored black

,
T he sol e s an d so m eti m es .
,

oth e r pa r ts of th e fe et as high as th e ankl es th e pal m s

, ,

of th e hands and th e nails ar e dy ed with a y ellowish

, ,

r e d with th e l e av es of a plant call e d h en na or al

*
,

kan na of C yp r us and Egypt (L awsom a in er m zs) th e

’ ’

l eaf of which so m ewhat res em bl e s th e m yrtl e, an d is

d ri ed fo r th e purpos es abov e m e ntion ed T h e g roun d .

l eav e s of th e h e nn a ar e m ad e into a paste with li m e

wat e r th en appli ed to th e skin , hai r o r nails an d
, , ,

l eft o n s ev e r al hou r s ; th e colo r thus i m pa r te d wil l

last s ev er al w eeks Th e bac k of th e hand is also O fte n
.

colored an d orna m e nte d in this way with d iffer ent

d evic es O n h olidays th ey paint th ei r ch eeks of a r ed
.

brick color a na r r ow r ed lin e b eing also d r aw n down

,

th e t e m pl e s .

Si m ila r custo m s are sti ll p r eval ent i n P e rsia L ady .

S h eil sp eaki ng of the S hah s m oth er says

’
, ,

The pal m s of h er hands an d tips of h er fing er s w er e dy ed r ed with

an h er b call ed h enna and the edges of th e inn er pa r t of th e ey elids
,

w ere colo r ed with anti m ony A l l th e Kajar s hav e natu r ally lar ge
.

a r ch ed ey eb r ows ; but not satisfi ed with this th e wo m en enla rg e

, ,

th em by dou b ling th ei r r eal si z e with g r eat st r eak s of anti m ony

h e r ch eeks w er e w ell r oug ed as is th e inva r iabl e custo m a m ong
,

P er sian wo m e n o f all clas s es 1

In G r eec e fo r colo r ing th e lash es and sock ets of th e eye th ey
“
, ,

th r ow inc ens e o r g u m la bdanu m on so m e coal s o f fi r e ; the s m ok e

which ascends is inte r cepted with a plate in o r d er to coll ect the ,

This plant is r e fer r ed to i n th e S ong O f So lo m o n under th e ,

nam e of C am phi re but as H e nna it is sold by Fi ess e and L ubin

“ ”
, ,

of B ond S tr eet .

1 G li m p ses o f L i fe i n P rsia e .
3 20 TE E ART or P E R R C M E R Y.

soot This I saw appli ed A gi r l sitting c r oss l egged as usual on

. .
,
-
,

a sofa closing o n e of h er ey es took th e two lash es be twee n th e fo r e

, ,

fin ger and thu m b of her l eft h and pull ed th em fo r ward and th en

, ,

th r usti n g i n at th e exter nal co r n er a sor t of bodki n o r p r obe which

, ,

had b ee n i m m er sed in th e soot and withd r awing it th e p ar ti cl es

, ,

p r eviously adh er ing to th e p r obe r em ain ed within th e

D r.Shaw states th at am ong oth er cu riositi es that

,

w er e tak e n out of th e to m bs at Sahar a r elating to

Egyptian wo m en , h e saw a j oint of th e com m on reed ,
which contain ed o n e of th es e bodkins and an ounc e ,

or m o r e of this powd er .

In England a si m i l ar practic e is adopt ed by m any

,

p ersons whos e hair is gr ay ; but instead of using th e

black m ate rial in th e for m of a powd er it is em ploy e d ,

as a crayon th e color b eing m ix ed with a gr easy body

, ,

such as th e brown and black stick po m atu m s d e

sc r ib e d i n th e pre vious articl e .

“
Th e qu esti on h as b een frequ e ntly discuss ed Is ,
”
hai r subj e ct to sudd e n change i n c o l o r ! an d was
ans w er e d in th e n egativ e by D r Davy , i n a pap er .

r ead b e fo r e th e B r istol Association at M anch e st er ,

1 86 1 .

T he popul ar noti on is d ecid edly i n favor o f th e af

fi r m ati v e, and m any n atu r alists and physiologists have
co m e to th e sam e conclusion Th ey adduc e instanc es .

of th e change of th e hai r to white o r g r ay in th e cas e ,

of p er sons u nd er stro n g em otions of g r i ef o r t e rr o r .

H all e r, in his E lem m ta P hy siologics r efe r s to eight e u ,

th o ri ti es fo r exa m pl e s of such chan ge s ; b ut all that

h e s eem s to ad m it fo r hi m s elf is that u nd e r th e i n
fl u en c e O f i m pai r ed h ealth such a chang e m ay tak e
_

plac e sl o wly M ar i e A ntoin ette was c i ted by favo r er s

.
/

C han dl er ’
s T r av els in G r eece .
3 22 TE E ART . Or P E R F U M E RY.

solution O f n itrat e of silver and a soluti on of iodin e,

th e author has n o t obs er v e d any chang e of colo r ,

e xc ept i n th e portions actual ly i m m e rs ed Wh eth e r .

it ow es its colo r to a fix e d oil to a p eculiar a r rang e

,

m e nt of its constituti onal m ol ecul e s o r to both it , ,

r esists d ecay in a r e m a rkabl e m ann er ; it r esists th e

action of acids an d alkali es exc ept th e strongest,
,

which dissolv e it It resists m ac er atio n and ev en

.
,

boiling water e xc ept continu ed fo r a long ti m e and

, ,

u nd e r p r e ssu r e, wh en it s uffer s d isint eg r ati on and

d e co m position . Exposu r e to th e sun will bl each

h air,b ut th is will not acco u nt for any v e ry sudd e n
ch an ge of colo r Su pport ers of th e popular opinion
.

r efer to ch an ges i n th e plu m age of birds such as th e ,

ptarm igan , an d i n th e h ai r of c e rtai n quad r up eds ,

such as th e m ountai n b ar s and e rm in e, which b ecom e
w h ite towar ds wint er , and of a d ar k e r h u e wh en th e
wint e r is past .

M r E r as m us Wilson , who advocat es th e popular

.

doct rin e r efe rs to th e c as e of a l em m i n g in support

,

of his v i ews ; but M r Blyth , a natu r alist, says that

.

b e exa m in ed a l em m i n g kill ed during its autu m nal

“
chan g e , an d satisfi e d hi m s elf that th e whi te hai r s
”
w er e all n ew , and not th e b r own chan ge d in colo r .

Th er e ar e r easons w hy it m ight be exp ect e d that th e

su m m er coat an d plu m age should be dar k er than
thos e of th e winter T he autho r concl ud es , that
.

w h e th er w e consid er o n e S id e of th e qu esti on o r th e
oth e r — th e hu m an evid enc e so qu estionabl e th e ,

physiological so m uch m ore r eliabl e— th e id ea of

fallacy is unavoidabl e as to the hai r b eing subj ec t to
,

sudd e n ch ange of colo r fr o m m ental i m p r ession .

T h e attem pts m ad e to explain su ch a change by

 H A I R D YES -
SE OU L D BE A V OID E D . 3 23

physiologists ar e allow ed to b e co m pl ete fail u r es ; an d

m or e a m using att em pts had b ee n m ad e to expl ai n

th e ph eno m e non on oth er gr ounds than thos e of

fallacy D r Davy wh en on fo r eign s er v ic e kn ew
. .
, ,

an assistant su r ge on of a r egi m ent wh o had b eco m e

insan e an d wh o m h e visit ed a fortnight or th r ee
,

w eeks subs equ ently Th e pati e nt s hair b efore b r own ,

.
’
,

had beco m e gray ; but wh e n h e call ed attention to th e

fact th e r egi m ental su rgeon si m ply said , Y our su r
,

prise w ill c eas e wh en you know that ,

has , sinc e
h e has b ee n affl ict ed with his m alady discontinu ed ,
”
dy eing his hai r .

T h e assassin O rsi n i l ately e x e cute d i n Pa ni s fo r at

,

t em pti ng th e li fe O f th e F r e nch em p er o r and r uth ,

l essly m u r d er ing tw elv e innoc ent p ersons p r es ented ,

th e sa m e appa r e ntly str ang e anom aly fr o m th e sa m e

caus e .W h e n O r sini was ar r est ed h i s l uxuriant ,

locks w er e as blac k as night, but wh e n guillotin ed ,

th ey w er e of an i r on gr ay colo r si m ply b ecaus e h e ,

e ith e r n egl ect ed his toil et , or els e was d eprived o f th e

u sual hai r d y e h e p re viously em ploy e d to giv e th e m

-

th ei r black colo r H i s fri e nds and th e pap er s gen er

.
,

ally att r ibute th e chang e to anoth e r ca us e of cours e,

, ,

and w e hav e no doub t that his to ry wil l r ep r es e nt th e

effe ct as b e ing p r oduc e d by th e m ental act i vity and

agony h e exp er i enc ed du r ing his incarc eration .

A S a r ul e all hair dy es should b e avoid ed ; in al m ost

,
-

e v e ry cas e th e p r oc ess is p r ej udicial to the uniti es

which tend to form that har m onious whol e which w e ,

call p e rsonal b eau ty T h e chi ef cha racter istics o f

.

b eauty , ind ep end e nt O f for m , ar e th e com pl e xion the ,

ey es and th e hai r ; and th er efo r e th e fi r st qu estion to

,

b e ask ed b efo r e attem pting to change the colo r of

,
3 24 TE E A RT OF P E R F U M E RY .

so i m portant an auxiliary to b eauty as th e hair sh ould

n atu r ally b e — “
Will th e change suit th e co m pl exion
”
an d the ey es ! T h e T eu tonic b eauty of A n glo
Saxons and A nglo No r m ans h as co m e down to th e
-

p eopl e of G r eat B ri tai n , along with the p rac tical c o m

m o n s ens e of th e o n e an d th e lofty b ea r ing of th e

oth e r Th e m ass of fe m al e lov elin ess which g rac es

.

“ ”—
th e land is th er e fo r e e ss e n tially fair white and
,

cl ear in cont r adistinction to b r own and dar k A

, .

cl ear rosy co m pl exion blu e ey es and hair m ore or

, ,

l ess aubu r n ar e al l th e m ost p r eval ent

, Now to.
,

chang e eith er th e colo r of th e co m pl exion or of th e

hair is tq d estr oy th e uniti es of such a styl e o f b eauty ,

b ecaus e th e ey e can not b e changed en sui te ; and it

p r oduc es the sa m e incongr uous effect as an ill d ress ed -

wo m an O fte n pr es ents by a display of ill assor ted -

“ ”
colors i n h er atti r e .Fai r p ersons ar e S eldo m , if
ev er , i m prov e d in app ea r anc e by th e p r o c ess O f hair

dy eing . S uch p e rsons who do not exhibit th ese

m ark e d fe atu r es of T eu tonic e xtraction i n whos e ,

v eins com m ingl es th e blood of a m ore south er n r ac e

— whos e dar k or brown co m pl exion , gaz ell e lik e ey es , -

an d rav e n hair t end to fo r m

, that styl e of b eauty w e
d esignat e b r un ette — should age trip up youth or
“
,

th ei r locks b eco m e p r em atu r ely gr ay or silvery white,

m a
y cal l in th e aid of art to r esto r e th e hai r to its

original tint without infr inging th e principl es of th e

,

har m ony of colo r If th e hai r b e too glowing too

.
,

b r ight an auburn to assi m ilate w ell with th e ey es or ,

with th e bl us h of the ch e ek , th e n its redn ess c an be

art ificially low er ed by th e application O f an articl e
sold und er the na m e of waln ut water , but which in
-

reality consists of a solution of plu m bat e o f potash ,

3 26 TE E A RT or P E R F U M E RY .

again to dryn ess A t th e s am e ti m e a m etallic m ix

.

ture which is b r ought fr o m Egypt to th e co m m er

,

c i al m arts of th e East and which is t e r m e d in Turk

,

ish Rastikop etm , or R astzk Yuzi is em ploy ed for this

’

purpos e This m etal , which loo ks like dross is by

.
,

so m e A r m enians in te ntiona lly fus ed , and consists of

i r on and copp er . It obtains its n am e fr o m i ts u se
in dy ein g or stain ing th e hai r , and particularly th e
ey eb r ows — fo r r astik m eans ey ebrows and yuzz ston e ,
’

T h e fi n e powd er of this m etal is as inti m ately m ix e d

as possibl e with th e m oisten ed gall m ass into a paste ,

which is p r es e rv e d in a dam p plac e by which it s e ,

quires th e blackening prop e rty In so m e cas es this .

m ass is m ix e d with th e powd e r of odo r ous substanc e s

which ar e us ed in th e s eraglio as p erfu m es , and

call ed ! can al —that is , pl e asant O dor ; and of th e s e th e

pri ncipal ingre di ent is am b er g ris To black en th e .

hai r a littl e O f this dy e is triturat ed in the hand or

,

b etw ee n th e fingers , wi th which the hair o r hear d is

w ell r ubb ed A ft er a fe w days th e hai r b eco m es v er y
.

b eautifully black and it is a r eal pl easure to see such

,

fi n e black b ear ds as ar e m et with in th e East a m ong

th e Turks who u se this black dy e A noth er and i m .

porta nt advan tag e in th e u se of this dy e consists h er e

in , that the hair rem ains soft pliant and fo r a long , ,

ti m e blac k , wh en it h as b een onc e dy ed with this

substan c e That th e colo r ing prop e rti es of this dy e
.

ar e to b e chi efly ascrib e d to th e pyrogallic acid , which

can b e form ed by tr eating th e m ass with water m ay ,

b e with c er tainty assu m e d .

 L I TE ARC E E AI R D YE - —SILVER DYE . 3 27

L IT E A RC E HAI R DYE
-
.

P owd er ed lithar ge ,

Q uickli m e,

C alci n ed m agn esia ,

S lak e th e li m e using as littl e water as possibl e

, , to
int egr ate th en m i x th e whol e by a si ev e
,
.

A n other way .

S l ak edli m e ,

White l ead in powd er , ,

L ithar ge ,

M i x by sifting bottl e and w ell cor k , , .

D ir ections to be sold wi th th e abov e

M i x th e powder with enough water to for m a thick c r eam y
fl uid ; wi th th e aid O f a s m all b r ush co m pl etely cov er th e h ai r to
,

be dy ed with th is m ixtu r e : to d y e a light b r own allow it to r e ,

m ai n o u th e hai r fou r hou r s ; dar k b r own eight hou r s ; black , ,

tw elv e hou r s A s th e d y e do es not act unl ess it is m oist it is

.
,

n ecessar y to k eep it so by w ea ri ng an O i l ed silk i n d i a r ub ber o r , p

,

oth er water pr oof cap .

A fter the hai r is dy ed th e r efus e m ust b e tho r oughly wash ed

,

fr o m th e h ead with pl ain water ; wh e n d ry th e hai r m ust be oiled , .

S I MP LE S IL V E R D YE ( thoer w i s e V ege tabl e D y )

e .

N it r at e
of silv er , 1 oz .

Rose wate r-
,
1 pint .

B efore using this dy e it is n ec essa ry to fr e e th e , .

hair fro m gr eas e by washing it with soda or p earl

ash an d wat e r T h e hai r m ust b e quite d ry prior to
.

applying th e dy e whic h is b est laid o n with an old

,
”
to oth b r ush This dy e do es not str ik e for s ev er al
-
.

hou r s It n eed scarc ely be obs er v ed that its effe cts

.

ar e m o r e rapidly produc e d by exposing th e hair to

sunshin e and air and by washing th e hair p r eviously

,

with sulphur soap .

3 28 TE E ART or P E R F U M E RY .

HA IR DYE WIT E MO RD A N T
-
.

B r ow n .

N itr ate o f silv er , 1 o z. bl ue bottl es .

Rose wat er
-
, 8 oz .

The M or da n t —S ulphu r et of potassium

.
, 1 o z. white bottl es .

Water , 6 o z.

B l ack .

N itr ate of silv er , 1 o z blue bottl es

. .

6 oz .

The M or dan t — S ulphu r e t

. of potassiu m 1 O z white bottl es
. .

Wate r , 6 oz .

The ordant is to b e appli e d to th e hair first

m

wh e n this is dry , th en th e silv er solution .

G reat care m ust b e tak en that th e sulphu r et is

fr esh m ad e, o r at l east w ell p r es e rv e d i n clos e d bot
,

tl es oth er wis e instead of th e m o r dant m aking the

, ,

hai r black it will i m par t a yellow h u e Wh en th e

, .

m ordant is good it has a v e ry disag re eabl e O dor ; an d

although this is th e quick est and b est dy e, its n u

pl easant s m ell has giv e n rise to th e
I N O D O R O U S D YE .

B l ue B ttles —D
o issolv e th e n i tr ate o f silv er in th e water as in
th e abov e ; th en add liquid a m m onia by d eg r ees unti l th e m i xtu r e
beco m es clo udy fr om the p r ec ipitate O f th e oxid e o f silv er ; con
t i n u e to add a m m o n ia i n s m all po r tions until th e fluid again b e
com es b right fr om th e O xide O f silv er being r ed issolv ed .

Whi te B o ttles —P ou r half a pint of boiling r ose water upon th r ee -

o unces o f po wder ed gall nuts ; wh en cold st r ai n and bo ttl e This ,

.

fo r m s th e m or dant and is used in th e sam e way as th e fir st nam ed

,
-

d y e lik e th e sulphu r e t m o r dant

,
It is not so good a dye as the pr e
.

v i o us o n e.

M A N GA N E S E B RO W N H A I R D YE -
.

“ ”
U nd er th e na m e of B afii n e, a v ery e xc ell ent
3 30 TE E ART or PEB FU M E B Y .

Q U I CK D E PILA T O RY OR RU S M A ( fo r
ovi n g H air ) r em .

Th e word d epilatory is d eriv ed fr o m dc p ilus of the ,

hai r A s th e ladi es o f this country consid er th e

.

g r owth o f hair upon th e upp e r lip u pon th e arm s , ,

and on th e back of th e n eck to b e d etr i m ental to

b eauty thos e who ar e t roubl ed with such physical
,

indications of good h ealth an d vital sta m ina have long

h ad r ecou r s e to r us m a o r d epilatory fo r r em oving it .

This and analogous pr epar ations w er e int r oduc ed

into this country fro m th e Eas t r us m a having b ee n ,

i n u se in th e harem s of A sia fo r m any ages .

B es t li m
slak ede , 3 lbs .

O r pi m ent in powd er , ,
lb .

M i x th e m ater ial by m eans of a d r u m si ev e ; p r eser v e the sa m e

fo r sal e i n w ell cor k ed or stopper ed bottl es

-
.

D ir ecti on s to be sold w ith th e abov e

M ix d epilato r y powder with enough water to r ender it o f a
th e
c r ea m y consis tence ; lay it u pon th e hai r fo r a bout fi v e m inutes o r ,

until its caustic action upon th e skin r ender s it n ec essa ry to be r s

m ov ed ; a si m ila r p r oc ess to shaving is th e n to be gon e th r ough but ,

inste ad of using a r a zo r ope r ate with an ivo r y o r bon e pa per knife ;

,
-

th en wash the pa r t with pl enty o f water and apply a little co ld ,

c r ea m .

Dr R edwood says that th e b est and safest d epi l a

.
u

to ry consists of a str ong sol ution of sulphuret of b a

r i um m ad e into a past e with thick starch ; it m ust b e

appli e d i m m ediat ely it is m ad e as it r api d ly spoils ,

.

Th e pre cis e ti m e to l eav e d epilatory upon the part

to b e d epilated cannot b e giv en b ecaus e th ere is a ,
“
physical di ffe renc e in th e natu r e of hair Rav en .

” “
t r ess es r e qui r e m or e ti m e than flax en locks ; th e
s ensitive n ess o f th e ski n has also to be consid ere d .

A s m al l feath e r is a v ery good test for its action .

 GO LD E N E AI R PO WDER . 331

A few r ead e rs will p erhaps b e disappoint ed in

, ,

finding that I hav e only give n o n e form ula fo r d epil a

tory T h e rec eipts m ig ht easily hav e b ee n incre as ed
.

in n u m b er, but not in quality Th e u se of arsenical .

co m pounds is obj ectionabl e but it undoub tedly i n

,

c r e as es th e d epilating acti on of the co m pounds A .

“ ”
few co m pil ers of R ec eipt B ooks and oth er s , add ,
”
to th e li m e char coal powd e r carbonate of potass,
,
“ ”
starch , &c ; but what action have th es e m aterials ,
.

ch em ically , upon hai r ! T he si m pl e st d epilato ry is

m oiste n ed quickli m e , but it is l ess e n e rg e ti c than th e

m ixture r eco m m e nd ed abov e ; it answ e rs v e ry w ell

for ta nn ers an d fellm ongers , with who m ti m e is no

O bj ect .

H ERN A NDIA D EP IL A TO R Y .

Burn ett says that th e j uic e O f th e l e av es of th e

H ernandia Son or a is found to b e an advantage ous and
effe ctual d epilato r y as it d estroys th e hai r wh e r e v e r
,

it is em ploy ed , without pain to th e skin .

Knowing fro m exp eri enc e how m uch m any of m y

countr ywo m en would valu e such an articl e it is m y ,

intention at an e ar ly p eriod to test th e valu e O f this

ass e rtion , and if it b e poss ess ed o f th e p r op er ti es as
serte d H e rnandia d epilatory shall shortly b e at th eir
,

co m m an d .

G OLD E N H AIR P O WD ER .

Powd er d o r was fi rst worn by th e E m pr ess Euge ni e

’
,

at th e F estival of B m uf G r as 1 8 6 0 S inc e th en this

,
.

p r etty conc eit as th e wav e of fashion always do es ,

,

has ext end ed fr o m its c entre to the circl e of al l who

p r etend to m ov e within its sph er e .

T he b est quality consists of crush e d gold l eaf th e ,

“ ”
co m m on kind o r sp eckl es is nothing m o r e than a
, ,

coars e b r on z e powd er .
332 THE ART or Ps n r un nn r.

SEC TION X VI .

s s son n m vr P OWD E RS AN D n ous s s .

A toil et tabl e is inco m pl ete withou t a bo x

L AD Y S
’
-

of so m e abso rb ent powd e r ; ind eed fro m our ea r li est ,

in fancy powd er is us ed fo r d rying th e skin with th e

,

gr eatest b en efit : no wond e r that its u se is contin u e d

in advanc e d y ea r s i f, by slight m odifications i n i ts
,

co m position it c an be e m pl o y ed not only as an ab

,
“ ”
so rb e nt but as a m eans of p e rsonal adorn m ent
,
.

W e ar e quite within li m its i n stating that m a n y tons

w e ight of such powd e r s ar e used in this country an
n u al ly Th ey ar e principally co m pos ed O f va r ious
.

sta r ch es prepa r ed fr om wh eat, potato es , an d various

,

n uts m ix e d m o r e or l ess with powd er ed talc m ag

, ,

n e si a ste atite (soapston e) F r e nch chalk , oxid e of

, ,

bis m u th and oxid e of z inc &c Th es e powd e rs ar e

, , .

b est appli ed to th e fac e with a bare s foot which ar e ’

,

p r epa r e d and fitted with handl es fo r that purpos e .

Wh en how ev er th e powd er is appli e d to th e ski n

, ,

g en erally , as fo r th e pu r pos e of d rying it afte r wash

”
i n g what is te r m e d a pu ff of swan s down is now
, ,
’
,

m ostly em ploy ed A n authority has info r m ed m e

.

tha t th e r e ar e about 5 0 0 0 swans skins i m porte d into ’

England an nual ly— passing th r ough th e C usto m

hous e ; how e v er th er e is good r easo n to suppos e that
,

v ast nu m b e rs also find th eir way h er e disp ensing ,

with th e tediousn ess o f c us to m s r egulations al to

334 TE E A RT OE P E R FU M E B Y.

ar ati v el has a v e ry coars e grain h e nc e th e or d inary

p y ,

powd e r is too coars e for th e co m pl exion but nut sta rch ,

B a z il Barc lona al ond pistachio or any oth e r)

( r ,
e m , , , ,

yi elds a fin e grain s m ooth and so ft v ery suitabl e for

, ,

co m pl exion powd e rs .

Ro sE FAC E P O WD E R .

Ros e pi nk ,

O t to of r os e ,

santal ,

PLA I N OR U N SOE NTED HA IR P O WD E R

Is pu re wh eat starch .

FAC E P O WD ER .

S ta r ch ,
O xide of bis m uth ,

PE RL E P OWD E R .

F r ench chalk ,

O xid e of bis m uth ,

O xid e of z inc ,

FRE NCH B L A NO
Is l evigat ed talc pass e d through a silk si eve This .

is a v er y good fac e po w d er , par ticula r ly as it do es

n o t discolo r fr o m em anations of th e skin o r i m pu re

atm osph er e .

A s to painting th e fac e it app ears to be practis ed

, ,

m o r e or l ess by both m al e an d fem al e fr o m

, th e ,
“
e a r li est p er iod to th e pr es e n t ti m e A n d wh e n .

Jeh u was co m e to Jezr eel Jez eb el h eard of it ; and

,

sh e paint e d h er fac e , and ti r ed h e r h e ad and look e d

,
 P A I NT IN G THE FA C E . 335

out at a window 2 Kings 9 : 3 0 G ibbon d escrib . .

,
*

ing th e Ro m an E m p er o r E lio gabal us says that at his , ,

first en try into th e e ternal city , his ey ebrows w er e

tinged with black and his ch eeks painted with an ,

artificial r ed and white Al m ost the first pres ent .

that th e E m pr ess m ad e to C atharin e n ewly ar rived ,

at court and scar c ely fifte e n y ears old , w as a roug e

,

pot 1 A w ell kno w n Duk e now living n ev e r app ears

.
'
-

, ,

in public until got u p w ith a fair quantity of rouge,

and which i s m ore particularly notic ed , as h i s G rac e
invariably paints r ou nd his ey es so m uch that h e
app ears j ust to hav e escap e d afte r a pugilistic en
count er H i s G r ac e is rath er ecc entric , to be su r e, as
.

it has b een said that h e w e nt to Franc e in a balloon ,

fo r fear o f th e m a!de m er .

L I Q U ID B LA N O DE P ERL E ( for th eatr i cal u se ) .

Th e of a white paint by actress es an d danc e r s

u se

is absolut ely n ec essar y ; g r eat ex e rtion produc es a

flori d co m pl exion which is inco m patibl e with c er ,

tain sc enic effe cts and re quires a cos m etic to subdu e

,

it T h e late M ada m e V
. during h er sta ge ca r eer ,

h as p r obably consu m e d m o r e than half a hundr ed

w eight o f oxid e of bis m uth p r epare d thus : ,

Ros e o range flo w er wate r

or -

O xid e o f bis m uth

M ix ed by long tr itu r ation .

G ibbon ’
s D e clin e and Fall o f th e Ro m an Em pi r e ,
”
v ol . i ch
, .

vi p
,
. 28 3 .

f M ém oi r es d e I Im ’
pératr i ce C atha r in e II , par M A H er ze n
. . .
336 THE A RT O F P E R E U II E R Y .

C AL OI NE D T A LO

Is also ext ensively us ed as a toil et powd e r an d is sold ,

u nd e r various na m es ; it is n o t so unctuous as th e o r

d i n ary kind .

RO U G E PA I NTSA ND RED .

Th es e prepa r ations ar e in d em and not only fo r ,

th eatrical u se but by p r ivate individuals Var ious

,
.

shad es of colo r ar e m ad e , to suit the com pl exions of

t he blond e and b r un ett e O n e of th e b est ki nd is
.

that term ed
B LOO M or Ro sn s .

S tr ong liquid am m onia , i o z.

F i n est car m in e , oz .

Ros e water
-
, 1 pint .

E sp r it d e r os e t r ipl e
, , 5 oz .

This p r epar ation , al m ost a n ec essary app endage to

th e toil et of e v ery lady in F r anc e and G erm any is ,

us ed to i m part to th e lips that ch er ry like h u e so -

m uch ad m i r ed It is also us e d to giv e the pal e and

.

wan ch ec k a ros eat e bloo m In m any r esp ects it is .

sup erior to roug e whi c h is now al m ost as p r eval ent

,

in this country as in th e days of G eorge the Thi r d ,

wh en spots and rouge w er e fit subj e cts for Swi ft s ’

sar cas m , as crinolin e now s e rv es P un ch .

P lac e th e ca r m in e i n a pint bottle and pou r o n it the a m m onia ;

,

allow th em to r em ain togeth er with occasion al agitation fo r two

, ,

days ; th e n ad d th e r ose water and espr it and w ell m i x P lac e the

-

, .

bottl e in a qui et situation for a w eek ; any p r ecipitate of i m pu r iti es

fr om th e car m in e wi ll subsid e ; th e super natant B loom o f Ros es
“ ”

is th e n to be bottl ed fo r sal e I f th e ca r m in e was pe r fectly pur e

.
,

th er e would be no p r ecipitate ; n ear ly al l th e ca r m in e pu r chas ed

fr om th e m ak er s is m or e o r l ess sophisticated i ts enor m ous p r ic e ,

being a p r em iu m fo r its adulter ation .

3 38 TE E A RT OF PE R F U M E RY .

of fo r m ul ae will convinc e th e m ost sup erficial read er

that the tru e for m is y et withh eld .

An alysis has taught u s its ex act co m position ; but

a c ertain d exte rity of m anipulation and prop er tem
p er at u r e ar e indisp e nsabl e to co m pl et e succ e ss .

M ost of th e r ecip es gi v e n by D r U re , and oth e rs .

,

ar e fro m this sou r c e ; but as th ey poss ess no p racti

cal valu e w e refrain fro m r epri nting th em
, .

M r B Wood patent ed th e following m ethod o f

. .

m aking ca r m in e, which m a b e v e r us e ful to so m e

y y
of o u r read er s who have to pay a m uch high er pric e
fo r this m at erial than it would cost th em s elv es to
m ak e it Take 9 ounc es of th e car bonate of soda
.
,

and dissolv e it in 2 7 quarts of rain water to which -

ar e add e d 8 ounc es of citri c acid Wh en brought to

.

th e boiling point 1 } l bs of th e b est cochin eal ground

-
.

fi n e , ar e add ed and th e n boil ed for 1 } hours

,
Th e .

liquo r is th e n str ain ed or filt er ed and set by to cool .

Th e cl ear liquor is th e n boil e d again with 9} ounc es ,

of al u m , for about ten m in utes an d is again drawn ,

o ff and allow ed to cool and s ettl e fo r two or th r ee

days T h e sup er natant liquor is th e n dr aw n Off and

.
,

th e s edi m ent which is fall e n to th e botto m is fil ter ed

an d wash e d with cl ean col d soft wate r and is finally ,

d r i ed by evaporating all th e m oisture The resu l t is .

fi n e carm in e which can b e m ad e into th e fin est r ed

,

ink by dissolving it in a caustic soluti on o f am m onia ,

ad ding a littl e dissolv ed gu m arabic .

By th e old plan of m aking ca r m in e no cit r ic acid ,

was us ed ; th e cochin eal was si m ply boil e d in soft

rain wat er fo r two hou rs , containing a m inute quan
-

tity of carbonat e of soda th e n al low ed to s ettl e an d

, ,

treated by rem aind e r o f th e proc ess d esc r ib e d abov e .

 —
T O I LE T ROU G E S P I NK S A U CE RS .

p
I r o v em in
en t
th e brilliancy of th e color is O h
by adding about o n e ninth part of the crystals
-

alt o f ti n to th e alu m using fo r this purpos e a

,

part l ess of alu m than th e a m o u nt give n abov e .

T O IL ET B on u s .

5: 3 p r epar ed of differ ent shad es by m ixi ng fi n e car

with talc powd er in d ifi er en t p r oporti ons ; say
'

r ac h m of carm in e to two ounc es of talc or o n e ,

m in e to th r e e of talc and so on , Th es e r ouges .

)l d in powd er , and also in cak e or china pots ; ,

Ie latt er th e rouge is m ix e d w ith a m inute

p o r

Df solution O f
g um tragacanth M T i tar d p r e . .

pares a gr eat vari ety of rouges In som e instanc es .

th e colo r ing m atte r of th e cochin e al is sp r ead upon

thick pap e r and dri e d v ery gradually ; it th e n as
su m es a b eautiful gree n tint This curious O ptical .

“
effe ct is a l so obs e r ve d in pink sauc er s What is
known as C hin es e book r ouge is evid e ntly m ad e in
-

th e sa m e way an d h as b ee n i m po r t e d in to this coun

,

tr y fo r m any y e a rs .

Wh e n th e b r on z e green car ds ar e m oisten ed with

-

a pi ece o f dam p cotton wool and appli ed to th e lips

-

or ch ecks th e colo r assu m es a b eautiful rosy h ue

, .

”
C o m m on sorts o f rouge cal le d th eatr e r ouge ar e
, ,

m ad e fr o m th e B ra z il wood lak e ; anoth er kin d is

-

d e riv e d fro m th e saffl ow e r ( Car tham us tinc tor zus) ;

'

fro m this plant also ar e m ad e

PI N K SA U OE Rs .

T h e safflow e r is wash ed i n water unti l th e y ello w

colo r ing m atter is rem ov e d ; th e car tham in e o r colo r ,

principl e , is th e n dissolv e d out by a w eak solution o f

340 TE E ART or PB B FU M E B Y .

carbonat e o f soda ; th e coloring is th e n pre cipitated

into th e sauc ers by th e addition of sulphuric acid to
th e solution .

C otton wool an d crap e be ing color ed in th e sam e

-

w ay , ar e us e d for th e sam e pu rpos e the form er b e ing ,

sold as Spanish wool , th e latter as C répon rouge .

S YMP A T H E TI C B L U sE OR SO E N O U D A .

U nd er th e uphonious nam e of Schn auda an articl e

e

fo r coloring th e ch eeks h as b ee n r ec e ntly in t ro duc e d

into p erfu m ery I prefer to cal l it Sym path etic Blush ,
.

on account of its p eculiar qualiti es .

In a ch em ical s ens e it poss ess es v ery great in

te r est, and illustrat es in o n e way how sci e nc e is ap
pli ed to th e arts .

Th e coloring principl e of this Blush is known to

ch e m ical philosoph e rs u nd e r the n am e of A lloxan ,

an d was discov e r e d by L i ebig .

A lloxan is white and is so lubl e in wat er ; b eing

,

m ix e d up with a greasy body afte r th e m ann e r o f

cold crea m , a white c r eam r esults .

O n exposu r e to th e ai r by rubbing it u pon th e

”
ch e ek , lips , or oth er situ ation , th e A lloxan gradu
ally turns to d eep ros e colo r fr o m th e oxidi z ing i n fl u
-

e nc e of th e at m osph e re U s e d j udiciously , it creat e s

.

th e m ost p erfect d e lusion p erp etrate d by th e toil et o f

fashion .

B L U E EO R V E I N S .

Th e arts of th e toil e t ar e car ri e d to such d e si r e s ,

that unl ess th e v eins could at ti m es b e indica te d by

a faint blu e v erm icular lin e, th er e would still b e a
want fo r th e p erfu m ers to supply .

Blu e wh e rewi th to i m ita te th e v eins is m ad e with ex

3 42 TE E A RT OE P E R P U E E R P.

m n t it p e rpe tuates A pretty han d is gr eatly i m

e .

prove d by car eful attention to th e nails an d ev e n a ,

hand which would oth er wi se be so m ewhat of a dis

fig ur e m en t to th e p erson , is r end er ed pl easing to th e
e e if p r op er atte ntion b e giv e n to th e nails T h e
y , .

b est nai l po wd e r consists of pu r e oxid e of ti n per

fu m ed with otto of lav en d er and tinted with carm in e ;
it is sold in lit tl e wood e n boxes of about o n e ounc e
eac h It is appli ed eith er by rubbing it o n to th e
.

n ail with th e fi ng e r o r wi th a nail polish e r c ov e re d

,

with l eath e r A s oxid e of ti n is em ploy ed for polish

.

ing tortois e sh ell , w e can easily u nd erstand how u se

-

ful it is for horn an d nails .

 SE C TION X V II .

T OOT H -
Pown sn s AND M OU T H -
W A S HE S .

TE E teeth should b e fairly us ed not m ad e to p er

,

form th e duti es o f crack e rs fo r n uts , nor to rival

scisso r s in cutting th r ead ; for r est assured th e te eth ,

so unwitti ngly inj ure d will always be th e first to part

co m pany fro m th ei r fellows C l eanlin ess is absolutely
.

e ss e ntial fo r th e pre s e rvation of the t eeth and th ey ,

should be w ell brush ed at l e ast m orn ing and ev ening,

that any fe cul enc e which m ay be attac h ed to th em ,
e ith er during sl eep fro m th e stom ach , or by day fro m
m eal s m ay n o t b e allo w
,
e d p e rm an e ntly to adh e r e ,

causing fi rstly discoloration , th en tartar, and su b

, ,

s equ ently un d er m ining th e h ealth of o n e o r m ore as ,

fro m th ei r position th ey m ay be m o r e or l ess liabl e to

co rr osion In o r d er that th e t eeth should look n atu
.

—
ral that is r etain th eir natural colo a d entifric e
,
r —
free fro m th e s m all est particl e O f acid should b e us e d
in th e m orning, and th e m outh rins ed with tepid
wate r for extrem es of h eat and cold ar e m ost highly
,

prej udicial both to th ei r color and durability T he .

p e rsons who habituate th em s elv es to h o t soup , tea ,

or oth e r drinks will b e sure to su ffe r in th ei r teeth

, .

Brush es for th e teeth should b e of m ediu m substanc e

of bri stl e and thos e m ad e on what is call e d the p e n e
,

trati n g p r in cipl e ar e b est C hildre n at an ea r ly age

.

should b e instructe d in th e u se of the tooth br ush , and -

3 44 TE E A RT or P E R FU M E B Y .

taught th e val u e and i m po rtanc e of the teeth in o rd e r ,

to inculcate habi ts of cl e anli n ess and a d ue app r e

c i ati o n of th e o r na m e nts of th e m o n th A b rush .

prop erly s el ected not too ha rd m ay b e us ed by chil

, ,

d r e n o f fi v e y e a rs of age ev e ry m o r ning ; and by

,

b eing part an d pa r c el of th e g e n er al ablution and ,

th us directing habitual att ention to the te eth a useful ,

and cl ea n ly habit will b e eng e nd ered which will

.

p r obably insu r e fo r th e m p r op e r ca r e th rough li fe .

T O OT E PO WD E RS r ega r d e d as a m eans m e rely of

-

cl eansing th e teeth ar e m ost co m m only plac ed a m ong

,

cos m e tics ; but th i s should not b e as th ey assist ,

g r eatly in pres er ving a h ealthy and r egula r condi

tion of the d e ntal m achin ery and so aid in p e rfecting
,

as m uch as possibl e the ac t of m asticati on In this .

m ann e r th ey m ay be consid er e d as m ost us e ful al ,

though i t is t r u e subo r dinate m e dicinal agents By

, ,
.

a ca re ful and p r ud e nt u se of th em so m e of th e m ost ,

fr equ e nt caus e s of ea r ly loss of th e t eeth m ay b e p r e

v e nted ; th e s e ar e th e d eposition of tarta r , th e sw ell
,

ing of th e gu m s and an undu e acidity of th e saliva

,
.

T he effe ct r e sulti ng fr o m accu m ulation of th e tarta r

is w ell know n to m ost p e rso n s and it has b e e n d is ,

ti n c tl y sh own that sw elling of th e substanc e of th e

gu m s will h as t e n th e exp u lsion of the teeth fr o m th e i r
‘

soc k ets ; and th e action o f th e saliva if unduly acid , ,

is kno w n to b e at l east inj u rious if not d e structiv e ,

.

N o w th e daily em ploy m ent of a tooth po w d e r sufii

,
-

c i e n tly ha r d so as to ex e rt a tol e r abl e d egre e of fr ic

,

tion u pon th e t eeth without at th e sam e ti m e, i n

, ,

j u r ing th e ena m el of th e t eeth will in m ost cas es , , ,

al m ost always p reve nt the tar tar accu m ulating i n

such a d egree as to caus e subs e qu e nt inj ury to th e
3 46 TE E A RT OP PER F U M E RY .

MI AL E E ’
s D E NTI PRI O E .

A lcohol , thousand pa r ts ; ge nuin e kino o n e hund r ed pa r ts ;

one ,

r hatany r oot o n e hund r e d par ts ; ti nctu r e o f balsam

, of tolu two ,

pa r ts ; tinctu r e o f gum ben zoin two par ts ; essential O il of ca n el la , ,

two par ts ; ess ential oil of m int two pa r ts ; ess ential o il o f an isee d , ,

o n e pa r t
.

Th e kino and th e r hatany r oot are to be m acer ated in th e al c ohol

fo r se v e n o r eight days ; and after filtr ation the oth er a r ticl es are ,

to be add e d .

A t easpoonful of this p r eparation ix ed in half a m

gobl e t of water should b e us ed to ri ns e th e m o n th

after th e u se of th e tooth powd e r T h e word d e nti -
.

fri c e is d e riv ed fro m dens f n co— a tooth , I r ub

’

.
,

C A M PE O RA TE D C HA L K .

P r ecipitate d chalk 1 lb
, .

P owd er ed o r r is r oo t -
lb ,
.

P owdered ca m pho r 1 lb ,
»
.

Reduc e th e c a m pho r to powd er by r ubbing it i n a m o r ta r with a

littl e spi r it th en si ft th e W hol e w el l togeth er
, .

O n account of th e volatility o f cam phor, the powd e r

should always b e sold i n bottl es , or at l east i n box es
lin ed with tinfoil .

Q U I N I N E T O O T H P O WD ER -
.

P rec ipita ted chalk ,

S ta r ch powd er ,

O r r is powd er ,

S ulphate o f qu i nin e ,

A fte r sifting it is re ady fo r sal e , .

P R E P AR E D C E A ROOA L .

F r esh d cha r coal i n

m a e ,
fine p owd er ,

P r epa r ed chalk ,

O r r is r oot
-
,

C atec h u ,

C assia b ar k ,
 T OOTE -
P ow D E R s . 3 47

l
'

an u v IA N B AR K P O WD E R .

P er uvian ba r k in powd er
, ,

B ol e ar m e n i ac ,

O r r is
po wder ,

C assia ba r k ,

P owder ed m yr r h ,

P r ecipitated chalk ,

H O M<E OPAT E I O C E AL E .

P owd er ed o r r is ,

sta r ch ,

CU TTL E P I S E -

P owder ed cuttl e fish -

P r ecipitate d chalk ,

O tto of l em ons ,

n er oli ,

B O RA x A ND M vRR E T O O T H -
PO WD ER
P r ecipitat ed chalk ,

FARI N A P I E sss ’
s P O WD E R .

B u r nt hor n ,

V er y fi n e powd er ed sugar ,

O tto of n er oli ,

l em ons ,
348 TE E ART OP P E B FU M E R Y .

Ro sE T O O T H -
P O WD ER .

P r e cipitated chalk ,

O rr is ,

Rose pink ,

santal ,

A ll th ese powd e rs ar e to be w ell si fted

th ey ar e th en ready fo r sal e .

O P IA T E TOO TH -
P A ST E .

C halk ,
O rr is ,

C ar m
in e ,

O tto o f clov es ,

nutm eg , j d r ach m .

r o se ,

S i m pl e syr up , e nough to fo r m a paste .

M O OT H -
WASH ES .

T inctu re of or r is ,

E sp r it d e r os e ,

S pi r it ,

O tto o f al m onds ,

This is a v ery nic e p r epar ation , and giv es great

satis faction .

E AU B O TO T .

Tinctu r e o f ced ar wood -

,

hatany r ,

O tto O f p eppe r m int ,

r os es ,
3 50 TE E ART or P E R FU M E B Y.

PA STIL L O ZE NG ES
T U R x I sE .

For th e u se o f s m ok er s o r to p r e v e nt th e tast e
,
of

m e dicin e . Th es e lo z e ng es are m ad e thus :

F ine sugar , 4 lbs .

C it r ic acid , 4 d r ach m s .

5 d r ops .

G r ain m u sk ,
4 g r ains .

O tto o f v i ti v ert , dr ach m .

G um t r agacanth dissolv ed i n water enough , to fo r m th e whol e

into a p aste ti nted with liquid lak e
, .
 E AI R -
WA S E Es . 351

S E C TI ON XV III .

E AIR -
WA S E E S .

As a gen eral rul e soci ety do es n o t u se e nough p o

,

m ad e s an d h air oils ; h e nc e th e n u m b e r of rough

looking h eads of hair that ar e to be s een wh en m en

“ ”
ar e ass e m bl ed tog eth er with th eir hats o ff as in a ,

court of j ustic e and si m ilar places of public r esort .

In boar ding schools , in vain ar e soap and wate r em

-

ploy e d to d estroy an odious parasite whos e nam e ,

n e ed not b e m e ntion ed ; but which is n ever s een or

h eard o f wh er e the toil ette is lib er ally suppli e d with
good po m ad e o r O i l O n th e oth e r han d th ere ar e
.
,

p er sons W hos e hair is so natu rally m oist and greasy

that n o kind of ungu e nt is r equir ed S uch hair is .

v e ry liabl e to co m e o ff to b e thin , l ank , an d pliabl e ;

,

wh er eas good hair should always have a c e rtai n

“ ”
a m ount of wool lin ess in it , to give that ap pearanc e
of life and vigor so b ecom ing in curly locks , an d th e
e xc ess of which is a n egro h ead Thi n and natu rally
.

gr easy hair r equi r es a wash to k eep it i n nic e ord er ;

and if th e hair is falling o ff, eith er fro m sickn ess or
n atu r al d e cay , th e wash should b e astr in g ent an d

sti m ulant .

Ro sE M ARI WATE R .

Rosem ar y free from stalk

, , 10 l bs .

Water ,
12 gallons .

Draw
fum ery m
o ff by distil lation
anufactu r e .
ten g allons for u se in pe r
352 TE E ART OP P E R E U E E R Y.

Rec ti fi ed spir it ,

P ear lash ,
Ti nted with br own c olor ing .

This is a v e ry good hair was h It was first intro -

.

d ec ed in N ew Y ork by those gO ah ead scissors , that -

“ ” “ ”
abb re viat e th e c r ow n of glory .

Ti n ctu r e o f bay l eav es ,

O tto o f bay ,

B ica r bonate o f am m oni a

B ibo r ate of so da ( bo r ax ) ,

Mix and filter .

A T E E N IAN W AT E R .

A lco hol , 1 pint .

S assafr as wood , 1
» l b .

P ea r lash , 1 Oz .

B oil thewood i n th e r ose water in a glass v essel ; th en whe n

-
,

cold add th e pe ar lash and spi r it

, .

VE G ET A BLE OR BO T A NI C E X T RA C T .

B os e water
l
-
,

Rec ti fi ed spi r it ,
°f m m
E xt r ai t d e fi eur d o r ang e
’
,

jas m in e ,

acacia ,

tuber euse ,

E xt r act O f vanilla , pint

Th is is a v er y b eautifully sc e nted hair wash -
. It
re tails at a pric e co m m e nsurat e with i ts cost .
35 4 TE E ART OP PE R F U M E RY .

SAPO NAC E O U s WA S H , OR E GG JU L E P .

Rec ti fied spi r i t , 1pint .

Ros e water
-
, 1 gallon .

E xt r act o f r ond el etia , 5 pint .

T r anspa r e nt soap , o z.

H ay
'

safi ro n , g d r ach m .

S hav e up th e soap v er y fi n e ; boi l it and th e safi r o n in a quar t of

'

the r ose wa ter ; wh e n dissolv ed add th e rem ainder o f th e wate r

-
, ,

th en the spi r it finally th e r ondel etia which is used by way o f per

, ,

fu m e A fter standing fo r two o r th ree days it is fi t for bottli ng

.
, .

By trans m itte d light it is transpare nt ; but by r e ,

fl ec ted light the liquid has a p ea rly and singularly

wavy app eara n c e wh e n shak e n .

B AND OLI NE s .

V arious preparations ar e us ed to assist in dressing

th e hair in any particular form So m e p ersons u se .

for that purpo se a ha r d po m atu m containing wax ,

m ad e up into r olls call ed th e nc e B dtm t H x atcur

, The .

littl e fe ath e rs of hair, w i th wh ich som e ladi es ar e

troubl ed ar e by th e aid of th es e b atons m ad e to l i e
,

down s m ooth Fo r th eir for m ula , see p 3 1 7

. . .

Th e liquid bandolin es ar e p r incipally of a gu m m y

n atu r e b eing m ad e e ith e r with Ic eland m oss , or
,

lins eed an d wat er , variously p erfu m ed , also by boiling

quince s eed with water P e rfu m er s how e ver chi efly
-
.
, ,

m ak e bandolin e fro m gu m tragacanth , which exu d e s

fro m a shrub o f that nam e which g r ows pl e ntifully

in G ree c e an d T u r k ey .

ROSE B A N D O LI NE .

G um tr agacanth , 6 oz .

Rose water
-
, 1 gallon .

O tto o f r os es , 5
S teep th e g um in the water fo r a day o r so . As it sw el l s and
for m s a thick gelatinous m ass it m ust fr om ti m , e to ti m e be w el l
 CREME DE MAUVE . 355

agitated A fte r about for ty eight hou rs m ac er ation it is th e n to

.
-
'
,

be squ ee zed th r ough a coa r s e cl ean lin en cloth and agai n l eft to ,

stand fo r a few days th en pass ed th r ough th e cloth a second ti m e

, ,

to insu r e unifo r m ity of consistency ; wh en this is th e case the otto ,

o f r oses i s to be tho r oughly inco r po r ate d .

Th e ch eap bandolin e is m ad e without th e otto ; for

col ored bandolin e it is to be tinted with a m m oni
,

acal solutio n of car m in e i e B loom of R oses S ee p

, . .
, . .

3 3 6 ; or with ros elin e for ros e ti n t an d anilin e for

viol et tint .

A L M O ND B A ND O LI NE .

Is m ad e precis ely as th e above sc enting with a ,

quart er of an ounc e of otto of al m onds in pl ac e o f th e

ros es .

CR E M E D E M A UV E OR H A IR Gno ss ,
.

T his prepar ation s erv es th e doubl e purpos e of a

d r essing for the hair and as a fixa teur It is esp ec i .

ally m ad e for giving gloss and bri l liancy to th e hai r ,

wh en an engag em e nt requires that th e tress es an d

curls should app ear particular ly el egant, as at a ball ,
soirée or th e op era and is m ad e thus
, ,

P ure glyce r in e ,

Spi r it o f j as m in e ,

A n ilin e ,

In concluding thi s s ection , w e n ow t er m inat e o u r

r em a r ks on th e m an ufactu r e o f odorous substanc e s ,

and th eir application to th e toil et of fashion an d

“ ”
To b e in good odor d e no tes m o r al purity T O .

e m ploy a sp ecial O dor , in i ts m at erial s ens e accord ,

—
ing to ci r cu m stanc es , age, j oy sorro w — is th e sug , ,
“ ”
gestion of Dr A n dr e w Wynt er
. Why says h e .
, ,
“ should
w e not know our fai r fri e nds by th e d e li
cate odors with which th ey are su rr ound ed as w e ,
3 56 TE E ART or P E RP U M E RI .

know th em afar o ff by th e charm of voic e ! Th ere

is an app r opriate O dor, to o u r m inds to each p ar ti c u
,

lar cha racter T h e spiritu ell e should afi ec t j as m in e

'

the bri lliant and witty m agnolia ; th e robust , th e

,

m or e m usky odors ; an d young gi r ls j ust bloo m ing

into wo m anhood th e ros e T he citron lik e p erfu m es

, .
-

ar e m or e fitt ed fo r th e m elancholy t e m p e ram ent , and

th ere is a sad m inor note in h eliotrop e that th e young

”
widow should affect .

Th e gr eat C reator in addition to utility, has add ed

,

b eauty an d vari ety in all his works Flow e rs m ight

.

hav e b ee n of o n e color and th e sam e O dor, or th ey

m igh t hav e b ee n colorl ess or inodorous .

Y et what exquisi te b eauty and div er sity of pe r

fu m e is th ere i n plants and flow er s ! Th e love of
this b eauty an d p erfu m e is u niversal M an is adapt .

ed to appreciate th e gi fts which th e b en efi c en t C r ea

tor has sp r ead b efore hi m i n such r ich vari ety ; th e

grati fication arising fro m this enj oy m ent , as it is
am ong th e m ost innoc ent and pu r est, so is it th e
m os t p le asing and p erm an ent that h e e nj oys .

T h e g r eat T each er , wh e n sp eakin g of th e lili es ,

says that Solo m on in all his glory was not array ed

like o n e of th es e and wh e n s etti ng forth his own ex
“ ”
c el l en c es and glory says , I am the Ros e of Sharon .

N o r the sweet s m ell

O f d i fier en t flow er s in odo r an d in b u s
'

C an m ake m e an y longe r sto r y te ll ”

.

SE As EA RE .
3 58 TE E A RT OP P E RP U M E Rr .

but v e ry few o r ganic su bstan c es applicabl e fo r co lor

ing p er fu m e ry M in er al colors of cours e th e re ar e
.

pl enty ; but th e m ajori ty of th em are of a poisonous

nature and cannot th erefo r e b e em ploy ed i n th e l ab
,

oratory o f a p er fu m e ry factor U nd e r th e n am e o f .

th e color th e s ev er al substanc es that can b e so tinte d

,

wil l b e m ention ed .

GR N E E — A lcohol m ay b e colo r ed gr ee n by i nfusing

i n it th e dri ed l eav es of al m ost any plant or h e rb ,

th e l eaves of spinach , sag e g r ass hay and nu m erous

, , ,

oth e rs , b eing e ith e r sun dri ed or artificially dri ed

-

w ith a cu rrent of warm ai r an d th en put i nto th e ,

spi r it, will co l or it of va rious b eautiful sh ad es o f

green Th e po m ad es of viol et an d acacia also colo r
.

spirit gree n by m ac e ration but the m o r e b eautiful ,

th e ti nt as a rul e th e old er is th e po m ad e or th e tinc

tu r e ; fr esh spirit of acacia o r viol et is O f a brown
gr ee n tint b ut if i t has b een p r epar ed fo r so m e ti m e
, ,

b eing m ore or l ess expos ed to th e air th e n it pass es ,

to a spring g rass gr ee n colo r , and the p erfu m e is d e

-

ter i o r ated .

G r een colo r ed p erfu m ery is m uch ad m ired ; h enc e

-

a li ttl e acacia is O fte n us e d in a bouqu e t on account

of its tint .

Oil and p om ades m ay b e colored G RE E N thus : dri ed

spinach or oth er l eav es ar e put in to r e ctifi e d spirits
of w in e ; th e S pirit rapidl y dissolv es out th e gr ee n
coloring m atter of th e plants call e d chlorophyll e : th e ,

spirit b eing th en press ed away fro m th e sp ent l e av es ,

i s to b e put on to m ore l e av es and again p r ess e d out ,

wh en th e coloring is di ssolv ed : this op eration r e

e ated s ev e ral ti m e s with th e sa m e spi r it , it will
p
b eco m e of a r ich d eep green color, on account O f
 C O L OR S . 3 59

its holding th e chlorophyll e in solution Wh en th e .

quantiti es op erated upon ar e large an d it is ess en ,

tial to sav e the spi r it , th e tinctu r e m ay b e placed

into a r etort or still an d th en distill e d at a l o w te m
,

p e ra tu r.e St e a m distillation is b est T h e gr ee n r esid .

u ar y extr act that r em ains aft er th e spi r it i s ev ap o

rat ed b eing n o w tritu r ate d with oil or fat wil l colo r ,

th e g r e as e o f a pr etty gr een .

Watery fluids m ilks &c m ay b e tinted of a b eauti

, , .
,

ful G RE E N with a gr e e n sol ution or dy e r e c ently i h

tr o d u c ed by M ess r s J udson o f C annon S tr ee t
.
,
.

Soap m ay b e colore d G RE E N by m aking i n th e m elt

ing pan a j udicious m ixture of soap containing fro m
-

s ev en pou nds to fou rt een pounds of n ew pal m oil to

e v e ry hundre dw eight O f soap This p r oduc es a good
.

y ell ow body soap To this w e add o n e two o r th r ee

.
, ,

ounc es of blu e s m alt o r O f U ltr a m arin e blu e m ix ed

, ,

with hal f a pint of w ater T h e blu e colo r and th e.

y ellow soap p r oduc es wh en c r utch ed tog eth er a

, ,

v egetabl e gree n tint G r e e n soaps ar e so m eti m es

.

p r oduc ed wi th salts of copp er chrom ate of potass , ,

and ch r o m ate of l ead Th es e m ater ials b eing all

.

p e r nicious m anu factur ers using th em ought to be

,

publicly fin ed .

P owders m ay b e colo r ed G REE N by em ploying the

dri e d powd e rs of fr esh h er bs , s u ch as par sl ey Spinach , ,

bay l eav es &c , m ix ed with sta r ch

,
. .

Y E LL O W.
— Safi r 0 n pal m O il and tu rm eric , are th e
, ,

principal y ellow stains us ed by p e rfum e rs .

A lcohol m ay b e colo r ed YE LL OW o r r ath e r of a b ean ,

tiful u r aniu m glass tint , by th e m ac e ration of j on

-

quil pom ad e ; th e poll e n of th e flowe rs i n th e first

plac e i m pa rts its tint to th e g r eas e which in turn , is , ,
36 0 TE E ART or PE RE UM E RY .

giv en up to th e spirit A lcohol m ay b e dy ed y ello w

.

by in fusing in it th e tur m e ric root ( Cur cum a longa o f

India) th e w el l known con di m e nt m ix ed i ii curry
,
-

pow d er 81 0 , .

Watery lotions and em ulsions m ay b e conv e ni e ntly

colore d YE LL OW with safi r on which consists o f the
'

sti gm ata of the y ellow crocus blosso m Saffron .

Wald e n a town i n Ess ex rec eived its prefix on s e

, ,

cou nt o f th e safi ro n gard ens which at o n e tim e w ere

'

e xt ensiv ely cultivat e d th e r e .

P om ades are b est colo r e d YE LL OW by j onquil p o

m ad e ros e po m ad e o r pal m
, oil ; th e latter is th e
,

m ost e cono m ical b ut th e two for m e r ar e far m o r e

,

agr e eabl e to th e s m ell Ros e po m ad e has a tint of a

.

d eep er y ellow than th e j onquil but is not equal in ,

colo r ing pow er to pal m O i l T he ros e po m ad e r e .

oe i v es its ti nt fr o m th e poll e n of th e ros e s w ith ,

which it is m ad e in th e sa m e way as j onquil , i e , . .

m ac e ration p 70 , . .

It is di fficult to stain oils o f al m ost any color exc ept

r ed and pu r pl e ; w e kno w of nothing that wil l color

oil y ellow artificially .

“ ”
Pal m oil b eing in fact not an o il at all in this
count ry , but al w ays m o r e solid tha n butte r an d
O paqu e will not s e rv e fo r coloring o i l y ellow
, .

R E D ROSE , V I O L E T , and MA UV E — all th es e tints

, ,

m ay b e conv e ni e ntly con sid e r e d tog e th e r , b e caus e

th e m od e of obtaining th em is fro m o n e and th e sa m e

sou r ce — nam ely anilin e
, ,
.

A lcohol r ec eiv e s fr o m th e vari ety of anilin e colors

all th e shad es a p e rfu m er can d esir e ; the s m all est
distinction in th e shad e of a color i s suffici ent to r e
q uir e a sp e cial na m e to indicat e it The two m ost .
36 2 TE E A RT OP P E R E U M E R Y.

are thus for th e first ti m e abl e to stai n fatty bodi e s

, ,

of various shad es fro m viol e t to a bl ush ros e .

G ly cer ine m ay also b e color ed of th e m ost lov ely

tints by th es e colo r in g m att e rs Si m pson s MA G ENTA , ’

and P erki n s s M A U VE p r oving the m ost us eful

’
, .

Watery fluids tak e th e ti nts of m auve m age nta sol , ,

fe rino to any shad e

,
.

M ilks and em ul sions tak e th es e colors w ell if n ot ,

k ept too long ; but if m ad e so m e ti m e th e colori ng ,

gradually subsid e s in co m binati on with the am ygd a

lin e of th e al m ond or pistachio n ut fr o m which th e -

e m ulsion is m ad e .

R EDD IS E B W
RO N
- — A lcohol is b es t colo r ed of a r ed
.
,

br own tint with rhatan y r oot Rhatany is th e Kr a .

m er ia tr ian dr a of botanists and is principally i m porte d ,

fro m P e ru ; th ere is how ev e r anoth er vari ety of

, ,

n ea r ly si m ila r prop erti es that co m es fr o m th e Antil

l es or C aribb ee Islands — this is th e Kr am er ia ix ina
,

both ar e bushy sh rubs an d ar e cultivat ed fo r th e ,

sak e of th e root yi elding as it do es a b eautiful color

, ,

to spirit and on account of i ts flavo r exte nsiv ely em

, ,

ploy ed fo r m aking fictitious port win e ; this root is

also e m ploy ed in tooth powd ers w hich see -

, .

A noth e r v ery good RE D B ROW N tint is ob tain ed i n

.
-

alcohol by m aking a tinctu r e of r ed santal wood o r

,
-

r e d sand ers in th e v er nacula r Re d sand er s is th e .

woo d of th e P ter ocarp us san talin us a t r ee natu r al to th e ,

C o r o m and el M ountains la r gely i m ported fo r th e u se

,

of dy ers , togeth er with anoth er var i ety P ter ocarp us ,

avus y ellow sand e rs, which yi elds a y e llo w tint to

fl ,

spirit C edar wood yi elds a good r ed tint to spirit

.
-

and is em ploy ed to so m e ext ent in liquid d entifric es

by th e Fr ench p erfu m ers .
 SPON GE . 36 3

Soap s color ed o f a r ed brow n and dark brown ,

ar e

w ith powd e r ed burnt si enn a and u m b e r ; but n e ith e r

o f th es e is so w ell to e m ploy fo r m any r easons , as
,

th e following :
—
B ROWN Burnt sugar or m olass es boil ed in an
.
,

iron v ess e l to the b u rning poin t b eing dissolv ed i n

-

,
“ ”
l i m e water, is th e brown coloring
-
of p er fu m e rs ,
”
and cara m el of confection ers This coloring is .

suitabl e for ti nti n g soap and hair washes o f any d esire d

-

sh ad e ; but as it is not solubl e in eith e r gr eas e o r .

spirit it do es not i m part color to th em

, .

B LA C K — Th er e is no tru e sol ubl e black fo r eith e r

.

water o r sp ir it; but Indian or C hin es e ink rem ains

susp e nd ed in th es e liquids long er than any oth e r sub
sta nc e .

Gr ease an d soap can only b e color ed B LA C K , ec o

n o m i c al l , with lam pblack fi rst r ubb e d with oil ,
y ,

th en add ed to th e soap or gr eas e in quantity sufli ci e n t

to produc e the d esire d shad e (See White and B r own
.

Batons , page
S P ONG E — The b est sponges i m port ed ar e r ec eiv e d
.

fr om S m y r na , and from th e shores o f th e islands i n

th e G r ecian A rc hip elago .Wh e n i m port ed th ey are
ful l of sand , and in this state it is th e b est way to pur
chas e th em ; th e n aft e rwa r ds to b eat out th e sand
with a stick , and rins e th em w ell i n cold spring water .

Nothing is b etter adapt e d fo r cl eansing th e S kin than

a good sponge ; h en c e su r geons prefer it to any oth e r
m at e rial In th e r egular way of using a sponge with
.

so ap for washing th ey rapidly b e co m e gr easy and ar e

, ,

th e n fr equ e ntly thrown asid e b efore half wo r n out

,
.

T h e p eculiar c ellular fi br ou s tissu e of sponge enabl es

it to d eco m pos e th e soap r etaining th e g r eas e and
,
364 TE E ART or P E R P U M E R Y.

oil which re nd e r it sli m y ; wh e n such is the cas e a

, ,

ly e of soda should be p r epar ed of th e st r e ngth of half

,

a pound of soda to half a gallo n of wate r and th e ,

sponge pl ac ed to soak in it for tw e nty four hours ; it -

should the n b e wash ed and w el l ri n s ed in S P R I NG

,

WA T E R and afte rwards in wate r containing a li ttl e

,

m u riatic acid (a win eglassful of th e acid to half a

gallo n o f wat e r is strong e nough ) Finally agai n.

,

rins e the spo ng e in pl e nty o f spring wate r The best .

sponge b eing worth fr o m 403 to 8 08 p er pound , r en

. .

d e rs it fully wo r th whil e to k eep th em cl ean If .

t r oubl e be tak en to well r inse a sponge ev ery ti m e afte r

u sing th e cl eansing p r oc e ss will r a r ely b e n ec e ssa r y
, .

T he quantity of spo nge i m ported into G reat B r itai n

in 1 8 6 0 :
C
om pu tdV
e al ue .

E xpo r ted ,

U sed at hom e,
36 6 THE ART OF P E RF U M E RY .

B O ILI N G A ND CO NGE ALI NG T E MPERA T U RE S or V ARI O U S

OTT O S ,
&c .

( F r om Th e Labo r ato r y o f C h em ical Wonders ) "

A l m ond O i l will nbt boil ,

O tto of patc houly boi l s ,

v i ti v er t,

santal wood boils

-

cedar w o od
-

E nglish lav e nd er boils

rose ( pu r e Tu r kish ) boils ,

ger a n iu m (S panish )
( Indian )

al m onds
ber ga m ot (pu r e I)
c ar away

l em on pee l -

or ang e
Fr ench lav ender (spik e) ,

white wax m elts ,

cam phor subli m es ,

ar afii n e A,
p
n
B,
otto r ose ( Ial i an ) co n geals ,

( Tu r kish
) ,

ger aniu m n er oli clov es deposit c rystal s

, , , ,

santal cedar l em on gr ass congeal to a j elly

, , , ,

ber gam ot congeals ,

cin nam on still fluid ,

3 70 APPE ND Ix .

in appe ar anc e to r o sewood v er y h eavy and sunk in wa ter lik e a

, ,

sto n e ; an d so har d wh en d r y as to tu r n th e ed ge o f a saw or chise l .

Th e odo r is p r o bably d ue to th e p r ese nce o f a s m all po r tion O f

‘

o i l as is th e case with santal wood only not so r ec her che an d it

,
-
, ,

r em ains yet to be see n if it can be tu rn ed to p r ofitabl e account by

th e p er fu m er L e t us suppo se that esse ntial o i l o f

.
“ Raspbe rr y
Jam Wood o r so m e o th er e xtr act could be o b tai n ed i t would not
n
be a par ticular ly pl easant pe r fu m e ; but that does n o t m i l itate
against it ; fo r th e sam e m ay be said O f m usk a m ber gri s and m any , ,

oth er s wh en pu r e .

T h e contr ast be tw ee n th e Odo r o f th e blosso m o f th e Raspber r y

Jam A cacia ”
and th e blosso m o f th e w ell kn own G um Wattl e
,
-

cac i a decu r r ens) is v er y r e m ar kabl e Th e for m er is sickly and

( A .

about as fr agr ant as an old cabbage stu m p ; the latter is m ost agr ee
'

abl e and delicious— yes it is m ost sw eet ! M any of th e vall eys to

,

th e south o f A d elaid e e v er y y e ar as th e season o f blosso m ing r e

,

tur ns ar e r edol ent with th e exquisite fr agr ance Th is fr agr an ce

,
.

i s how ev er en tir el y i n th e blosso m s fo r th e wood and l eav es are

, , ,

scentless .

T h e Wattl e o r fr ag r ant A cacia h as been d estr oy ed in n ea r ly all

, ,

th e settl ed distr icts fo r th e sak e o f th e ba r k That it m ight be .

p r ofitably cultivated is beyond a doubt l st It yi elds gall berr i es . .

-

o f g r eat utility in m any b r anch es o f co m m er ce 2d A m ost valu . .

abl e p er fum e 8 d A gu m si m il ar to gu m A r abi c 4th The b a r k

. . . .

is m uch valu ed by th e tann er 5 th It m ight be cultivated o n . .

land which also could be used fo r pastu r age 6 th T h e s eed m ight . .

be tu r n ed to so m e ac count Th e s eed is i n pods si m i l ar to peas

. .

C ockatoos ar e v er y fond o f th em I noticed flocks of th e bea utiful .

r os e b r eas t ed cockatoo s fee ding o fl th e seeds o f th e Raspber r y J am

'
-

A cacia in C entr al A ustr alia ; and th e white cockatoos in South

”

A ustr alia u sed to com e in gr eat nu m ber s as r egular as th e s eason ,

and gorge th em selv es with th e seeds of the G u m Wattle I used .

to var y m y dinn er which fr o m th er e being no fr esh m eat to be

, ,

had was chi efly o f salt po r k with a r oast of th ese fellows ; but I
, ,

cannot say m uch i n th eir favor ev en with th e r eco m m endation of ,

an A ustr alian appetite .

Th e gu m o f th e fr agr ant A cacia is us ed as an ar ticl e of food by

th e abo r igin es I hav e us ed it m ys elf and advised its use by oth er s
.
,

wh en ha r d p r essed and fou nd it ext r em ely nutr itious It r equi r e s

, .

som e little cooking and bolting to get it d own fo r oth er wis e yo u ,

m ay get as hung r y whil e eating as if eating walnuts T h e nativ es .

would eat two to th r ee pounds at a sitting .

 C A ST OR OIL IN V OL A T I L E OI L . 3 71

T he gum is ost valuabl e pr oduct consider ed as an ar ti cl e o f

th e m ,

c om m er c e . S o m e that I s e nt to E ngland as a sp eculation r eali z ed ,

£60 p e r te n and a po r tion £ 6 3 per to n

,
T h e ba r k r ea li z ed £ 1 5 .

p e r to n. M y ag ent how ev e,
r adv i sed m e that those p r ic es could
,

not be m aintain ed A s th e gu m i s fou r ti m es th e value o f th e ba r k

.
,

an d is yi eld ed an nually ; whil e th e ba r k can only be obtain ed O nc e

o r th e tr ee di es ) i t r em inds o n e o f th e fabl e o f killing th e goos e

( f ,
.

A pa r ty o f m en and bo ys o u t ba r king
“ would d est r oy a b elt o f
Wattles a m il e i n l ength in a w ee k and th ey m ak e no distinction
as to wh eth er th ey ar e g r owing o n C r own or pur chas ed land so ,

long as th e own er is not located on it .

T h e gu m is us ed by m anu factu r er s to giv e an appa r e nt thickn ess

an d S uper ior qu al i ty to th ei r goods ; also by confection er s and m any

oth er s A whol esal e stay m ak er told m e that it cost h im £ 1 50 per

.
-

annu m fo r gu m A r abic ( which afte r all is chi efly Obtain ed fr o m

A fri c a ) m er ely to thicken and finish ladi es stays Th e A ustr alia n ’
.

savag e eats the gum fr esh an d pu r e Y oung E ngland consum es it .

as a va r nish o r polish o n his ginger br ead and bu n s .

ON A ME ANS OE D E T E CTI N G TE E PRE SE NCE or C A S TO R

OIL I N TE E V O LA TILE OIL S .

A CCO R D I N G to Mr H N . . . D r ap er ,
castor o il m ay b e us ed to
adulter ate vol atile oils and if SO used its p rese nce could not be i n
,

dicated by th os e m eans applica b l e to th e de tec tion O f oth er fix ed oils ,

o n account o f its solubility i n alcoh ol H e h as th ere fo re d e vis ed .

, ,

a test for this O il based on th e p r oduction O f sen an thyl i c acid

, .

This body is a p r oduct O f th e oxidation o f casto r oil and is fo r m ed ,

wh en th e war m o il is tr eated with an exc ess o f nitr ic acid A .

viol ent action ensu es du r i ng which m uch n itr ous acid is d isen
,

gag ed and th er e is found floating in th e acid liquid wh en th e

, ,

r esidu e is m ix ed wi th water a soft unctuous m ass ,If th e acid .

liquid be n eutr ali zed with ca r bonate o f s oda so as to enti r ely r eg ,

m ov e th e odo r of nit r ous acid th e sm ell o f the m n an th yl i c acid c a n

,

be m ost c l ear l y rec o gn i zed The m od e O f applying this test to th e

.

d etection o f castor O il i n th e volatil e O ils is as follows : T w enty

d r ops o f th e suspected Oi l ar e plac e d in a capsul e and h eated on a ,
 3 72 A P PE ND I x .

sand bath until th e Odo r o f the O il is n o longe r per ce iv ed To the

-
,
.

r esidu e—i f th er e be any — ad d fi v e o r six dr ops o f nit r ic acid and ,

as soon as the action has subdu ed dilute with solution O f ca r bonate ,

o f soda If castor Oil be pr ese nt th e Odo r will be at onc e per ceiv ed

.
, ,

and on ce s m ell ed is not lik ely to be m istak e n fo r any oth er T he

, ,
.

autho r states that fi v e per ce nt o f casto r O il in a volatile o i l can be

.

th us d etected .

ntal and c da otto r e co m m only ad ul te r awd with c asto r o i l

!S a e r a .

—S . P .
]

D E TE C TI O N or FU S E L OIL IN SP I RIT OE W I NE .

C HL ca lciu m in sm all pi ec es is put into a beak er and

O RI D E of , , ,

just enough of th e suspected S pi r it is pou r ed ov er to m oiste n th e

whol e ; th e beak er is th en cov er ed with a glass plate and allowed to
stand In a shor t ti m e if fusel o i l be pr esent th e s m el l wi ll be
.
, ,

distinctly per ceptibl e and will beco m e str onger and str onger o n
,

standing for so m e hour s I n this way the l east tr ac e o f fus el O i l can

.

be r ecogni z ed ; but wh en th e quan tity p r esent is v er y s m all th e ,

m ixtu r e m ust b e l eft tog eth er lo ng er be for e th e e xpe r i m enter s m ells

it and th en the n ose m ust be appli ed fr equ ently at shor t inter val s
, .

Th e i m possibility o f r eco gni z ing s m all quantiti es o f fusel O il i n

S pi r it d epe nds u pon the ins e nsib i lity o f th e ol fa cto r y n er v es o
, p r

d uced by th e vapo r of alcohol If w e wish to s m ell fusel oil alon e

.
,

W e m ust p r e v ent alcohol vapo r fr o m r ising ; this is best don e by

m ixing th e alcohol with chlo r id e o f calciu m which fix es it F use l , .

O il also com bin es with chlo r ide of calciu m but th e co m bination is ,

n o t odo r l ess whil e th e alcohol is h el d so fast that it does n o t di stu r b

,

th e s m ell o f th e fuse l oil .

! It will b e obs er v ed in both th e abov e cases and i n oth er s

, ,

quo ted i n this A ppe ndix that after al l the no se th e O lfacto r y

, , , ,

n er v e is th e tr ue an aly zer —S P ]
, . . .

J
‘
ES A T
S C E RT A I N I N G T HE P R ES E N C E o r A L C O H O L I N
PO R

E S S E N TI A L OIL S— OTT O S .

J J B E RN O U LL I reco end sfo r this pu r pose aceta te o f potash

. . m m .

Wh en to an eth er eal O il contam inated with alcohol d r y ac etate O f

, ,
3 74 A P P E N D I x.

fll i n gsin a glass bottl e with nitr ic ac id The vapo r o f nitr ous acid .

is co nducted th r ough a glass tube i nto water u pon whi c h th e o i l to

be tested is placed If t he o il o f al m onds o r oliv es con ta i n only a
.
, ,

sm all quantity o f pe ppy O il wh e n thus tr ea ted it is en ti rely co n

, ,

v er ted i n to c r ys talli zed elaidin whilst th e pe ppy O il swi m s o n the

,

tO p in d r ops .

C O LO RI NG MA TTE R OP V O L A TIL E OILS .

BY 0 . I . S AC HSS E .

IT is w ell known that m ost eth e r eal oils ar e color l ess ; how ev er
th er e ar e a g r eat nu m be r color ed ; so m e of which ar e blu e so m e ,

gr ee n an d so m e y ellow U p to th e prese nt ti m e th e qu estion has

, .

not bee n d ecid ed wh eth er it is th e n ecessar y p rope rty o f eth ereal :

,

O ils to hav e a colo r o r wh eth er th ei r color is not d ue to th e p r esence

,

o f so m e colo r ing m att er which can be r em ov ed It is m ost p rob .

able that th ei r colo r a r ises fr o m the p rese nce o f a for eign substance ,

as th e color ed eth er eal oils can at fi rst by ca re ful distillation be , ,

obtain ed colo r l ess whilst late r th e colo r ed po r tion passes ov er

, .

S ubseq u en t appea r anc es l ead to th e solution of the qu estion and ,

ar e c e r tain evid enc e that e th ereal oils wh e n th ey are colo re d e w e , ,

th ei r color to peculiar substance s which by cer tain conditions m ay , ,

be co m m unicated fr o m o n e oil to a noth er Wh en a m ixtu re o f .

oils of wor m wood l em ons and clov es is su bj ected to distillation the

, , ,

p r eviously g r ee n color ed O il of wo r m woed passes over pt the co m

-
,

m n ce m en t co lo r l ess whil e towa r ds th e en d o f th e distillation

e , , , ,

after the r ec eiv er h as bee n fr equently char ged the O il o f clov es ,

d istils ov er i n v ery dense d rO ps o f a da r k g r ee n color It th ere .

for e app ea r s that th e gr ee n color ing m atter o f th e o i l O f wo rm woed

has be en t r ansfer r ed to the o i l o f clov es .

PRACTI CA L RE M A R K S O N S PI R IT or W I NE .

B Y T H O M A S A R N A LL .

THE st r ength spi r i t o f win e is by law r egulate d by p r oof

of , ,

S p i r it ( sp gr
. 920 ) as a standa r d ; and accor dingly as it is e ith er
.

str onger o r w eak er than the a bov e it is call ed so m uch per cen t , .
 AE N AL L ON SP IRITS OE W IN E . 3 75

abov e o r b elow p r oof The term per cent is used i n this insta nce
. .

i n a r ath er peculiar se nse Thus spi r it of win e at 56 per cent ov er

.
,
.

p r oof signifi es that 1 00 gallons o f it are equal to 1 56 gallon s o f p r oof

,

S pi r it ; whil e a spi r i t at 20 per c ent un der p r oof signifi es that 1 00 .

,

gallons ar e equal to 80 gallons at p r oof T h e r ectifi ed spi ri t of th e .

P h ar m aO O pIE i a is 56 per c ent ov e rp r oof and m ay be r e duc ed to

.
,

p r oof by str ictly adh er ing to th e di r ect ions th er e giv en — vi z to .

,

m i x fi v e m e asu r es with th r ee of wat er Th e r esult how ev er will .

, ,

not be eight m easu r es of p r o of spi r it ; in consequ e nce of th e con tr ae

ti on whic h e nsu es th er e wi ll be a d efici e ncy of about gi v i n eac h
,

g a l l o n. This m u s t be bo rn e in m ind in p repa r ing tinctu r es .

D u r ing a l o n g s e r i es o f e xpe r i m e nts o n th e p r epar ation of e th er s ,

it appea red a d esider atu m to find a r ead y m ethod of ascer taining

how m uch spi it of any densi ty would be eq u al to o n e ch em ica l
r

equival e nt o f absolute alcohol B y a m o dification o f a r ul e em

.

p yl o by th e E xcis e this qu es,tion m ay be eas ily solv ed Th e E x .

cis e ru l e is as follows :
T o r educe fr o m any giv en st rength to any r equi re d st re ngth
Ad d th e oew p r oef pe r ce ntage to 1 00 subtr act the u nderp r oof per ,

c entage f r om 1 0 0 ; m ultiply th e result by th e quantity o f sp i r it ,

and d ivid e the p r oduct by the nu m be r obtai n ed by add in g th e r e

u i r ed pe r c e ntag e ov er p r oof e r subtr ac ti ng the r e u i r ed pe rc entag e
q , q
u nd er pr oof to o r fr o m, 1 00 as th e case m a y be, T h e r es ult wil l .

giv e the m easu r e o f th e spi r it at th e st r ength r equi r ed .

Thus suppos e yo u wish ed to r educ e 1 0 gallons of spi r it at 54

, ,

ov er p r oof down to p r oof ad d 5 4 to

, , m ultiply by th e

quantity 1 0 gallons ( 1 54 x 10 ) 1 540 T he r equi r ed st re ngth

,
-
.

being p r oof of cou r se th er e is nothing eith er to add to o r take fr om

,

1 00 ; th er efor e 1 540 divided by 1 00

, gallons at p roof ; show
i ng that 1 0 gallons m ust be m ad e to m easu re 1 5 gallons 3 pi nts 4 , ,

fl o z by th e addition o f water
. .
, .

T o ascer tain what quantity of spi r it of any giv en st r ength will

c ontain o n e equival ent o f absolute alcohol Ad d th e ov er p r oof .

per centag e o f the gi v en Spi r it to 1 00 as be fo r e ; and with the n um ,

ber thus obtain ed divi de Th e r esult giv es in gallons th e

qua ntity equal to fou r equival ents ( 46 x
E m a m p l c — H o w m uch S pi r it at 5 4 p er c ent ov er p r oof is equal to
. .

1 equival e nt of absolute alcohol !

IIere

54 1 00 1 5 4 an d
T
:
lls ga .
, or 2 6 ga lls . 3 pts .

which divid ed by 4
, , giv es 6 gallons 4 pints , , 15 oz .
3 76 Ap p E ND Ix .

S uppose the S pi r it to
ov er pr oof
be 60 ,

on fou rth of whi ch is equal to 6 gal

e -

25 338
1 00 so l ens 2 pints 1 5 ; or , , .

This r ul e Is found ed o n th e following data as a gallon o f water

'

w eighs 1 0 is obvious that th e specific gr avity o f any liquid

will giv e the w eight o f o n e gallon T h e S pecific gr avity o f absolute
.

alcohol i s 798 8 1 1 ; h ence the w eight o f 1 gallon wi l l be

.
,

lbs and its str ength is esti m ated at

.
, ov er p r oof .

4 e qu ivale n ts of al ceh el ==46 X 4 1 84 an

,

an d

gal lons x lbs per g l l on also . a ,

H e nc e it appea r s that gallons o f absolute al cohol ar e

equal to 4 equival ents B y adding the ov er p r oof per ce ntage
.

to 1 00 and m ultiplyi ng by the quantity

, gallons ) we get ,

th e constant nu m ber
T h e r ul e m ight hav e bee n calculated so as to show s t ones th e
equival ent without dividing by 4 ; but it would have requi r ed
,

s ev er al m o r e places of d eci m als : it will giv e th e r equi r ed quanti ty

to a fr a ction of a fluid d r ach m .

! T h es e re m a r ks ar e v er y use ful and ar e th e kind o f obs er vations

,

so w ell suit ed to p r actical m em —S E PT I M US P I E S S E ] .

A S I MP L E AND C ER T AI N ME T H O D To DE T ER M I NE Tn E

C O M M ER CI A L VA L U E o r S O AP .

BY DB . A L E X A ND E R M U LL E R .

IN cons equ enc e of th e ted ious pr ocess by which th e fatty ac ids are
d eter m in ed i n o n e po r ti on o f th e soap and th e alkali by the i n c i n er
,

ation of anoth er I consid er the foll owi ng m ethod is not unwor thy
,

o f publication beeause it app ea rs to afi o r d quick er and m o re co r r ect

’
,

r esults by r eason o f th e g re at e r si m p l icity o f th e m anipulation It .

i s availabl e p r incipally for s oda soaps which ar e th e m ost co m m on ; ,

but it m ay be also em ploy ed with co r r eSpO n d i n g al ter ations fo r

soaps which hav e oth er bases .

A pi ec e of soap w eighing two o r th ree gr am m es is dissolv ed in

a ta r ed beak er glass of about 1 6 0 cubic centi m etres capacity with
-

80 to 1 00 cubic c enti m etres o f water by h eat in a water bath an d , ,

-
,
3 78 A PPE N D I x .

A determ ination o f the alkali as a sulphate a ffo r ded in anoth er

po r ti on of soap p e r ce nt o f soda b
.e cau,se th e sulphate o f sod a
and chlor i d e O f sod i um pr ese nt in th e so ap gav e up th eir alkali .

Th e alkalin e fi u i d appli d by m e was a saccha r in e solution o f

e

li m e which can be natur ally r eplaced by a solution o f soda an d

, ,

m ust be i f th e chlo r id e of sodium and sulphate of soda m ix ed with

th e so ap shall be d eter m in ed in the following way
Th e fluid again e xactly n e utr ali ze d wi th alkali i s evapo r ated to
d ryn ess and th e r esidue g e ntly h eated to r edn ess A s in the abo v e
, .

m anipulatio n th e fluid was not h ea te d to th e boiling point th e -

o r iginal chlo rid e of sod iu m and sulp hate o f soda are contai n ed i n
th e w eigh ed r esidu e besid es th e soda o f th e soap and tha t whi ch
,

has bee n added with th e sulphu r ic acid fo r m ing sulphate o f soda

, .

A second exposur e to a r ed h eat with sulphu r ic ac id c onv er ts the

whol e r esidu e into sulphate o f so da and fr o m th e inc r ease o f
,

w eight by a co m pa r ison o f th e equivalents o f N aC l and N aO SO’

, , ,

th e qua ntity o f th e fo r m er m ay be d ecid ed A cco rding to th e

.

equival e nts w hich K e p p fu r nish ed in 1 8 50 th e inc rease o f w eight

,

to t h e chlo r id e o f sodiu m is as 1 : The o r iginal sulphate o f

soda m ust be lastly found by the subtr actio n o f the sa m e salt
, ,

for m ed plus the calcul ated chlor id e o f sodiu m fr om the fi r st h eated

r esidu e .

In p r ac tice it is seldo m n ecessa r y to p r oceed with th e d eter m i

,

n ation o f th e chlo r id e o f sodiu m and sulphate o f soda ex cept wi th ,

sti rr ed and cocoanut e i l soaps ; cer tainly l ess o f th e tr uth is see n

-

if after the abov e d eterm ination o f th e fatty acids and the effectiv e
,

alkali th e abs ent per centage o f water is intr oduced in the cal c u
,

lation th an if the wate r is r ec kon ed which is n ev er co m pl etely

, ,

e volv ed fr o m soap e v en te ch nically pre pared at 802 Fah r and

,
°
.
,

anoth er d eterm ination m ad e o f the fatty aci ds o r alkali en bl oc th e

fatty ac ids o r ev en th e alkalin e co ntents
, .

T he m ethod h ere giv e n par tak es o f th e usual i m p er fections that ,

th e fatty acids as w ell as th e u n sapo n i fied so ap are equally esti

m ated and th e m ix ed hyd r ate o r ca r bonate o f th e alkali as w ell as
,

th e co m bin ed alkali T he p r ese nc e of th e car bonate can be easily

.

r ecogni z ed by the foa m ing o f th e so ap solution upon th e addition

of th e sulphu r ic acid Th es e i m per fections how ever ar e of littl e

.
, ,

i m po r tan ce .

It m ust be gr anted that th e m inutely c o r rect d eter m ination o f

th e constitution o f soap m ust be al ways yi elded up to tho se who
ar e tech nically conv er sant with this depa r t m ent of ch e m istr y th e ,
 s sr m s r ron or s oap . 3 79

e sti m ation o f fr ee alkali an d unchanged fat incl uded in it at l east , ,

by ce r tain ages o f th e soap F u r th er a consid er abl e excess o f o n e

.
,

o r anoth er ing redi e nt soon betr ays i tse lf by a cor res pondi ng d e par

tu r e fr om th e soap o f the char acter isti c p r ope r ti es o f a good pr o

, ,

duct : a s m all excess can be j udged su fi c ien tly exact fr o m th e pro

po r ti on o f th e alkali whic h supposing soda p rese nt should n o t
, , ,

a m ount to m or e than 1 3 per cen t with a pu re cocoanu t— o i l so ap

.
,

n o t l ess than p er c e nt wi th a tallow soap ; b u t.with pal m o i l

an d m ix ed so aps th e o n e o r th e oth er li m it app r oxi m ates —Jou m a l .

E S TI MA TI O N or S o ar .

D a B e ca u s e
. giv es ( Po lytechn isch Cen tr al blatt 1 86 0 S 1 484) a , , .

m ethod by which th e a m ount o f har d s o ap in a speci m en can be

calculated fr o m th e a m ount o f fatty acid obtain ed wh e n a giv en

a m ount o f the specim e n is deco m pos ed by a st r ong acid Th e author .

m ak es use o f a flask t he n eck o f which is g r adua ted into cubic c en

,

ti m etr es ; into this flask half full o f water h e puts half an ounce o f
, ,

soap and disso lv es it H e th en adds th e ac id e ith er co m m er cial

.
,

hyd r ochlor ic o r dilute sulphu r ic ac id and warm s th e m ixtu r e

, , ,

wh ereupo n th e fatty ac ids ar e set fr ee He n o w puts sufli ci en t .

water to allow h im to r ea d o fl the nu m be r o f cubic ce nti m et r es th e

‘

aci ds m easu re i n the n eck o f th e flask The fatty acids fro m dif .
,

fer e n t sour ces d i fl er a littl e in w eight ; but the au tho r found that
’

th e av er age w eight o f a cubic ce nti m et re is 98 g r am m e which is .

,

n ea r enough to th e tr uth for o r di nar y pr acti cal pur pos es A s the .

ac ids ar e com bin ed with 1 1, glycer in e it is easy knowing th e weight , ,

o f th e acids to calculate th e w e ight o f the fat us ed ; and as o n th e

,

average 100 1hs o f fat giv e 1 55 l bs o f good har d soap the w eight
. .
,

o f th e real soap can be ca lcul ate d wh e n th e w eight o f the fat is

known Th ese c alcu lations m ay be m ad e by th e use o f a tabl e

.

which the author has constr ucted fr o m which w e ext r act th e i m ,

po r tant pa r ts Th e results ar e n o t to be consider ed scie nti fically

.

ac cu r ate but are n ear enough to th e tr uth fo r o rdinary busin ess

,

pu r poses Th e pr ocess r equi r es only o n e w eighing is e x ecute d in a

.
,

fe w m inutes and is so si m pl e that it can be per fo r m ed by a co m m on

,

wo r k m an .
38 0 A PPE ND I X .

1 . C ubic cen ti m e tr es o f fat ac ids se par ate d fr o m half an ounce

II P er centage o f water l ye glycer in e

.
, , , M .
, in th e spe ci m en .

III P er ce ntage o f goo d har d soap

. .

ON res VA L U E or D IFFER E NT KIN DS or

BY 8 . GBA I G E R .

C on Pu cons um er s i n r egar d to the valu e o r r ath er efli

INr s o f ,

cac y of sa m pl es of soap which to th e best o f th e m anufactu rer s

, ,
’

k nowl edge hav e bee n w ell p re pa r ed ar e not uncom m on , .

It is v er y p r obabl e that th e usual explanation which is o fler ed '

wh en ev er a soap fails to fulfil the expectations of its cons u m er vi z , .

,

that it c ontains too m uch water m ay be in m any cases corr ect ,

.

A d m itting this and va r ious oth er contingenci es whic h are o f i m

, ,

po r tance in d eciding upon th e valu e of a soap th er e appear s to be ,

anoth er obvious r eason why d ifl er e n t so aps containing equal ‘

am ounts o f wate r m ay still possess d i fler en t d egr ees o f efli cacy

,
’
.

It is e vid e nt from th e d ifler en t equival e nt weights of th e va r ious

,
‘

fatty acids that the a m ounts o f caustic alkali tak en up by th em

, ,

in the fo rm ation o f soap m ust be o f unlik e m agnitud e

, .

If it be tr u e that th e de ter gent power o f soap is e nti r ely depe n

,

d ent u pon the am ount o f alkali which it contains o f cou r s e it fol , ,

lows that thos e soaps which contain th e lar gest p r opo r tion o f al
88 2 A P PE ND I X .

is per fum ed wi th the tar of bi r ch n ev er bec om es m ou ldy ; indeed , ,

it p re v ents it fr om occur r i ng i n oth er bodi es A fe w d r ops o f any .

essen tial o i l ar e su fi c i en t also to k ee p books e nti r e ly fr ee fr o m it .

Fo r har n ess o i l o f t u r pe ntin e is reco m m end ed B ookbinder s i n

, .
,

gen er al em ploy alu m fo r p r eser ving th ei r paste ; but m ould fre

,

qu ently fo rm s o n it S hoem ak er s r esin is so m eti m es also used fo r

.
’

the sa m e pu r pos e ; but it is l ess effectual th an o i l o f tu r pe ntin e .

T he best p re v entiv es how ev er ar e the esse ntial oils e v e n i n s m al l

, , ,

quantity as those o f pepper m int anise o r cassia by which paste

, , , ,

m ay be k e pt al m ost any l e ngt h o f ti m e ; ind eed it has in this way

‘

, , ,

bee n p rese r ved fo r year s T he paste reco m m e nded by D r M ac c u l

. .

loch is m ad e in the usual way with fl o u r so m e b ro w n sugar an d a

, , ,

littl e co rr osiv e subli m ate ; the suga r k ee ping it fl exibl e wh e n d ry ,

and th e subli m a te p re v enting it fr o m fe rm e nting and fr o m being ,

attack ed by insects A fter it is m ade a fe w d r o p o f an y o f th e

.
,

esse n tial oils are added P aste m ad e i n th i s way d r i es wh en e xpos ed

.

to th e ai r and m ay be used m ere ly by w etting it

, If r equ ir ed to .

be k e pt always r ead y fo r use it ought to be put into cov er ed po ts

, .

Seeds m ay also be p rese r v ed by th e e ss e ntial oi l s ; and th is is of gre at

consequ ence wh e n th ey are to be se nt to a distance Of cou r se
, .

m oistu re m ust be e xcluded as m uch as possibl e as the oils o r ottos

,

p r ev ent only the bad efl ec ts o f m ould '

I N r ao n uc rIo u
' '
or a ao o s N I NT O E S S E NTI A L OILS .

C HA NG E or O NE Or r o '
I N r o A NO T H E R .

m u ( Bu lleti n . and Kolbe (A

do S t P eter sbu rg , T ii i , . p . n

n at d er C he m
. a nd Phar m
. Bd cxv i ii S hav e e xper i m ente d
. .
, .

o n th e di r ect addition o f hyd r ogen to o r ganic c o m pounds T h e lat .

ter digested a ho t satu r ated solutio n o f be n z oic acid and a littl e h y

d roc h l o r i c acid wit h sodiu m a m alga m and i n this way obtain ed ,

bitter al m ond o i l anoth er o i l whic h beco m es a c r ystallin e solid o n

,

cooling and a volatile acid Wh e n th e action takes place i n an al

, .

kalin e solution the changes ar e d ifl eren t N o bitter al m ond o i l is

,
’
.

obtain ed n o r the c r ystallin e o i l but m or e o f th e n ew acid is fo r m ed

, ,

which Kolbe intends to invest igate fu r th er .

Zi n i n s fo rm er r esear ch es o n be n z il e showed that be n zil e m ight

’
 E U S E I. OI L . 38 3

be conv er ted into be n z oi n by the di r ect addition o f hydr ogen H e .

now shows that by continuing th e action longer n ew bodies m ay

, ,

be for m ed containing m or e hyd r ogen that be n z oin T h e aut h or .

m ad e a b oiling solution o f o n e par t be n z oin and th r ee o r fou r pa r ts

alco ho l o f 75 per ce nt and to this h e added o n e par t o f str ong alco

.

hol satur ated wi th hyd r ochlor ic acid gas and th e n half a pa r t o f

, ,

fi n el y gr anulated z inc was slowly int r oduc ed i nto the m ixtu re

-
.

A s soo n as th e viol e nt r eaction ce ased anoth er h alf a pa r t o f th e ,

alcoholic solution o f hyd r och lori c acid gas was ad ded and th e m i x ,

tu r e boil ed down to a half It was th e n pou r ed o ff fr o m the u ndi s

.

solv ed z inc and m i x ed wi th water wh er eupon an oily body separ a ,

ted which soon cool ed into a c r ystallin e m ass which was pu r i fi ed

, ,

by r ec r ystalli z ation fr o m alcohol It was th en obtain ed in r h o m .

bic tabl es which fus ed at

,
T his n ew body is m or e hyd r og enated
than be n z oin ; but the el em enta r y analysis th e autho r says p r ese nts , ,

u nusual d ifi c ul ti es B y th e action o f nit r ic acid and o f b r om in e

.
,

o n this n e w body oth e r c r ystalli z a b l e bodi es are fo r m ed

, .

B itter al m ond o i l dissolv ed in th e alcoholic solution o f hyd r o

,

chlo r ic acid and bo i l ed with z inc for m s a thick oily bo d y which ,

sticks to th e sides o f the fl ask and o n cooling becom es solid and

-

r esinous It is freely soluble in eth er and fr om the solution par t

.
,

c r ystalli zes o u t th e r em ainder se par ates as an oily m ass in which

, ,

after a ti m e oth er c rystals for m

, .

A RTI F I C I AL PRE P AR A TI ON o r O n o as B E S E MB LI N G TH E

FRAG RA NC E o r C ER T A I N FRU I r s .

FU S E L O I L .

BY W . BAS T I CK .

TR Is or ganic com pound was fi rst disc over ed by Sch eel e as o n e o f ,

th e distillation p r oduc ts o f th e wo r t obtain ed fr o m th e ferm enta

tion o f po tatoes It has bee n subs equ ently e xam in ed by P ell eti er
. ,

D u m as C ah ours and oth er s

, ,
It is g en er ally now ter m ed th e
.

hyd r ate of th e oxid e o f a m yl fr o m a m yl being sup pos ed to be its

,

base or r adical as cy anogen is r ega r ded to be the r adical o f anoth er

,

s er i es o f co m pounds .
88 4 A PPEND I X .

It passes ov er to war ds the ter m ination o f th e distillation p r oc ess

i n a white tu r bid fluid which consists o f a water y and alcoholic
,

so lution o f th e fusel o i l T he c r ud e o i l consisting o f about o n e

.
,

half o f its w eight o f alcohol and water m ay be pu r ifi ed by being ,

sha k en with water and r edistill ed with th e p r evi ous addition o f ,

chlor ide o f calciu m Wh en th e tem per atu r e o f th e contents o f

.

th e r e to r t reach es 296 F ah r pu r e fu se l o i l d i stils ov er

°
.
, .

F u sel o il is a color l ess oily fluid which possess es at fi rst n o t an ,

u nag reeabl e odo r but at l ast is v er y disgusting p r oducing o p pr es

, ,

sion at th e ch est and e xciting cough It h as a shar p h o t taste and .

, ,

bur ns with a white blu e fla m e It boils at 2 96 F ah r and at a

-
.
°
.
,

te m pe r atu re o f —4 F ah r it beco m es solid and fo rm s c rystals Its

°
.
,
.

spe cific gr avity at 59 F ah r is °

and its fo r m ula
.

O n paper it p r oduces a g r easy stain which disappe ar s by h eat and , ,

wh e n expos ed to the action o f th e ai r it acqui r es an acid r eac tion .

F use l o i l is slightly solu bl e in water to which it i m pa r ts its odo r ; ,

and solubl e in all p r opor ti ons i n alcohol eth er volatil e and fixed , ,

oils and ace ti c acid It disso lv es phosphor us sulphu r and iodin e

, .
, ,

without any n otice abl e change and also m ix es with caustic soda ,

and potash It r apidly a bso r bs hyd r ochlo r ic acid with the dis
.
,

e nga ge m ent o f h eat Wh e n m ix ed with concentr ated sulphu r ic

.

acid the m ixtu r e beco m es o f a viol et r ed color and bisulphate o f

,
-

am y l o x i d e is fo r m ed N it r ic acid and chlo r in e decom pose it

. By .

i ts distillation with anhyd r ous phosphor ic acid a fluid oily co m , ,

bination o f hyd r ogen and ca r bon r esults B y oxidation wit h .

bich r o m ate of potash and sulphu r ic acid fuse l o i l yi elds val er ianic ,

acid which is used i n m edicin e and appl e o i l em ployed as a fl av o r

, ,
-

i ng ing r edi ent in confection er y .

A RT I E I CI A L E S S E N CE or PI N E A PP L E .

BY w . B As r c
'
.

0 abov e essence is buty ri c eth er m or e o r l ess diluted with

T a n: ,

alcohol : to obtain which pu r e o n a lar ge scal e and econo m ically , ,

th e following p r ocess is r eco m m end ed :

D issolv e 6 l bs of sugar and half an ounce of ta r ta r ic acid in 26
.
,

lbs o f boiling water L et th e solution stand fo r sev er al days ; th en

. .
38 6 APPE ND Ix .

P R EPA RA TI ON or A RTI F I C IA L E S S EN CE or QU I NCE .

B Y DB . 3 . W AG NE R .

IT has been beli eved until th e m ost r ecent peri od that th e peel
, ,

o f quinces contain cen an th yl ate o f e thy l o x i d e N ew r esea r ch es .

,

how ever hav e l ed to th e suppo si tion that th e odo r ous p ri ncipl e o f

,

quinces is d er iv ed fr om th e eth er o f pe lar gonic acid I n m y last .

r ese ar ch o n th e action o f nitr ic acid o n o i l o f r ue I found that ,

besides th e fatty acids which G er har dt had al r ead y disc ov ered

, ,

pelar gonic ac id is for m ed This p r ocess m ay be advantageously

.

em ploy ed fo r th e p r epar ation o f c r ude pela r gonate o f e thy l o x i d e

-

which o n account of its extrem ely agr eeabl e Odor m ay be appl i ed

, ,

as a fr uit esse nce equally wi th those pre par ed by D o ber ei n er H o f ,

m an n and F ehling
,
Fo r th e p re pa r ati o n o f th e liquid which can
.
,

be na m ed th e ess ence o f quin ce oil o f r ue is t r eat ed with doubl e i ts

,

quantity of v er y diluted n itr ic acid and th e m ixtu r e h eated unti l ,

it begins to boil A fter so m e ti m e two lay er s are to be obs er v ed i n

.

th e liquid : th e uppe r o n e is b r ownish an d th e low er o n e consists o f

,

th e p r oducts o f th e oxidation o f o i l o f r u e and the e xc ess of nit r ic

acid Th e lower lay er is fr eed fr o m th e gr eater par t o f its nitr ic
.

ac id by e vapo r ation in a chlor ide o f zi nc bath Th e white flocks .

r equ ently found in the ac i d liqui d which are p r oba bl y fatty acids
f , ,

ar e se par ated by filtr ation Th e filt r ate is m ix ed with S pi r its and

.
,

long digested in a ge ntl e h eat by which a fluid is form ed which has

,

th e ag r ee abl e o do r o f quinc e i n th e high est d eg r ee and m ay he ,

pu r i fied by distillati on —Jou r n al j il r p m kti schc Clim ate

. .

PR E PARA TI O N or RUM E T H E R -
.

TA KE black oxide of m angan es e o f sulphu ri c acid each

of , ,

twelve pounds ; o f alcohol tw enty six pounds ; o f str ong ac etic acid
,
-

te n pounds M i x and distil tw elv e pints Th e eth er as abov e

. .
,

p r epar ed is an ar ticl e o f com m er ce in A ustr ia being th e body

, ,

to which r um ow es its peculiar fl av o r — Austr i aa Jour n al of P har .

 O D ORS N OT ALW A YS PERE U N E S . 8 87

ARTIE IC IAL O DO R or FEA R S .

B Y M . I E H L IN G .

T a Is is an alcohol solution o f ace tate of am y l o x i d e and acetate ,

o f e th y l o x id e Fo r its p r epa r at i on o n e pound o f glac ial ac etic

.
,

ac id is added to an equal w eight o f fusel o i l ( whic h has been pre

pa r ed by being wash ed with soda and water and th en distill ed at a ,

tem m r ature be tw ee n 2 5 4 and 2 8 4 °

and m ix ed with half a
°

pound o f sulphu r ic ac id T he m ixtu r e is dig ested fo r so m e hou r s

.

at a tem per atu re o f by which m ea n s ace tate o f am yl o x i de sepa

r ates par ti cular ly O n th e addition o f so m e wate r
,
Th e c r ude ac e tate .

O f am yl o x i d e obtain ed by s epar ation and by the distillation o f th e ,

liquid to which th e water has bee n ad ded is finally pu r ifi ed by ,

being wash ed wi th so da and water F iftee n par ts o f ac etate o f .

am y l o x id e are disso lv ed w ith half a par t o f ac etic e th er i n 1 00 o r

1 20 pa r ts O f alcohol ; this is the esse nc e of p ea r which wh e n em , ,

ploy ed to flavo r suga r o r sy r up to which a little citr ic or ta r ta r ic

,

acid has be e n ad d ed affo r ds th e flavo r o f ber gam ot pea r s and a

, ,

fr uity refr eshing tas te

, .

ON TH E APP LI CA TI O N or ORG A N I C C H E M I ST RY To

P E RFU M EB Y .

B Y D B. A . W . H OFM AN N .

C A R O U Rs xc ell ent r esear ch es concer ning the esse ntial o i l o f

’
e

G au l tl wn a p r ocu m ben s ( a N o r th A m er ican plant of th e natu r a l

’

o r d er o f the E r ic i n ss o f J ussieu) which ad m its o f so m any appli es

,

tions in per fum er y * hav e open ed a n ew fi eld in this b r anc h of i a

,

d ustr y Th e intr oduction o f this o i l a m ong co m pound e th er s m ust

.

n ecessa r i ly di rect th e atte nti on o f per fu m ersf towa r ds this i m po r

tant b r anch o f com pounds th e nu m be r o f which is daily incr e asing
,

by th e labo r s o f those who apply th em selves to o rganic ch em istr y .

Th e st r i king si m ila r ity of th e s m ell O f th ese eth e rs to that o f f r u i t

had n o t escaped th e obser vation o f ch em istr y ; ho wev er it was r e ,

se r v ed to p r actical m en to disco v er by which choice and co m bina

Qy C o nfection er y !
.
f Qy . C on fection er s !
888 A P P E N D I x.

tions it m ight be possibl e to i m itate the scent o f peculia r fr uits to

such a nice ty that m ak es it p r obabl e that th e sc e nt o f th e fr uit is
,

owing to a natu r al co m bination identical to that pr oduced by ar t ;

so m uch so as to e nabl e th e ch em ist to p r oduc e fr o m
, fr uits the said
com binations p r ovid ed he could hav e at his di sposal a su fi c ien t
,

quantity to oper ate upon The m anufact u r e o f a r tificial ar o m atic

.

oils fo r t e pu pos
h r e o f pe fu y is o f cou r se a r ec ent b r anch o f
r m e r *
, ,

indust ry ; n ev er th el ess it has al r ead y fall en into th e hands O f sev

,

er al distill er s who p r oduce su ffi ci e nt quantity to supply the tr ad e ; a

,

fact wh ich has not escaped th e obser vation o f the J u r y at th e L on

,

don E xhibition In visiti ng the stalls o f the E nglish and F re nch

.

confection er s at th e C r ystal P alace we found a gr eat va r i ety o f ,

th ese ch em ical p er fu m es th e applications o f whic h w er e at th e

,

sam e ti m e p r ac tically illustr ated by confection er y flavored by th em .

H ow ev er as m ost O f t he sa m pl es O f th e Oils s e nt to th e E xhibitio n

,

w er e but s m all I was p r ev ented in m any case s fr o m m aki ng an

, , ,

acc ur ate analysis of th e m Th e la r gest sam pl es w er e thos e o f a

.

co m pound labell ed pear O il which by analysis I disco v er ed to

”
, , ,

be an alcoholic solution of pu re ac e tate o f am yl o x i d e N o t having .

a sufl c i en t quantity to pu r ify it fo r co m bustion I dissolv ed it with ,

potash by which free fuse l O il was s epar ated and d eter m in ed th e

, ,

aceti c acid in th e for m o f a silv er salt .

gram of si lver salt .

gr a o f si lv m . er .

The pe r c e ntag e o f silv er in acetat e o f silv er is accor ding to ,

Th ory e E xpe ri m nt e

Th e ac etate o f am yl o x i d e which acco r ding to th e usual way o f

, ,

p r epar ing it r eprese nts o n e pa r t sulphu ri c acid o n e par t fus el Oil

, , ,

and two par ts of acetate o f potash h ad a str iking s m ell o f fr uit , ,

but it ac qui red th e pl easant flavor of the j ar gon ell e pea r only after
having bee n diluted with six ti m es its volu m e o f spi r it o f win e .

U pon fu r th er i nqui r y I l ea r n ed that consid er a bl e quantiti es o f

,

this o i l are m anufactu r ed by so m e distill er s —fr om fiftee n to tw enty ,

pounds w eekly — and sold to confection er s who em ploy it chi efly

, ,

i n flavor ing pear d r ops which are nothing else but ba r l ey sugar
-
,
-

flavo r ed with this o i l .

I found b esides t he pea r o il al so an app le oi l which accor ding

, , , ,

to m y analysis is nothing but val er iana te of am y l o x id e E v er y

, .

Qy C onfection er y !
.
8 90 A P P E N D I x.

c ent o f sulphate o f ba r ytes It is cu r ious to fi n d h ere a

p er . .

body which o n account o f its noxious s m ell is r em ov ed with great

, , ,

car e fr o m spi r ituous liquor s to be appli ed u nd er a d ifl er en t for m

,
'

fo r th e pu r po s e o f i m par ting to th em a pl easant flavor .

I m ust n eed s h ere also m ention the ar tificial o i l o f bitter al m onds .

Wh en M i tsc h er l ich i n the y ea r 1 88 4 disc overed the nit r obe n zol e

, , ,

h e would n o t hav e d ream ed that this p r oduct would be m an u fac

tu r ed fo r th e pu rpo s e o f pe r fu m er y and aft er tw enty y ea r s appear , , ,

in fi n e la bell ed sa m pl es at th e London E xh i bi tio n i t It is tr u e that .

ev e n at th e ti m e o f th e discov er y o f nit r obe n z ol e h e pointed o u t th e ,

str iking si m ilar ity o f i ts sm ell to that O f the o i l o f bitter al m onds .

H ow e v er at that ti m e th e only known sou r ces fo r obtaining this

, ,

bod y w er e th e co m pr ess ed gas es and the distillation of be n zoic acid ,

consequ ently th e ext ravagance O f i ts p r ic e banish ed any idea O f em

ploying ben zol e as a substi tu te fo r o i l o f bitter al m onds How ev er .
,

i n the y ea r 1 8 45 I succeed ed by m eans o f the anilin e r eac tion i n

, ,
-
,

asc e r taining the e x istence of be n z ol e in co m m on coal tar o i l ; and i n -

th e y e ar 1 8 49 C B M ansfi eld p r ov ed by ca r eful e xpe ri m ents that

, . .
, ,

be n zol e can be wo n without di ffi culty in gr eat quantity fr o m coal

tar o i l I n his essay which contains m any inter esting d etails a bout
.
,

th e p r acti c al use o f be n zol e h e speaks lik e wi se o f th e possi b ility of

,

soon obtai n ing th e swee t sc e nted nit roben z ol e i n gr eat quantity

-
.

Th e E xhibition * has p r ov ed that this obs er vation has not bee n l eft
unnoticed by th e pe r fu m er s A m ong F r ench per fu m er i es w e hav e
.

found und er the na m e o f ar tificial oil of bitter al m onds and under

, ,

th e still m o re poe tica l na m e o f ess e nce d e m i r b an e se v er al

“ ”
,

sa m pl es o f ess ential oils which are n o m or e n o r l ess than n i tr obe n

,

zol e I w as not abl e to obtain accu rate d etails about the exte nt o f
.

this br anch o f m anufactu re which see m s to be o f so m e i m po r tance

,
.

In L ondon this a r ticl e is m anufactu r ed with succ ess Th e appa

, .

r atus em ploy ed is that o f M a n sfi e ld which is v er y si m pl e : it c o n ,

sists o f a la r ge glass wor m th e upper extr em ity o f which divides

,

in two br anch es o f tubes which ar e p r ovided with funn els Th rough

, .

o n e o f th ese funn els pass es a st r ea m o f concent r ated nitr ic acid

th e oth er i s d estin ed as a re c e iv er o f be n z oi c which for this pu r pose , , ,

r equi r es not to be quite pu r e ; at th e angl e fr o m wh er e the two

tu bes br anch o u t the two bod i es m eet togeth er and instantly the
, ,

ch em ical co m bination tak es place whic h cool s sum c i en tl y by pass ,

i n g th r ough th e glass wor m T h e p r oduct is afte r wa r ds wash ed

.

O f 1 85 1 .
 on oas N OT A LW AYS P ERF U M ES . 3 91

with wa ter and so m e diluted solution o f ca r bonate o f soda ; it is

,

th e n r eady fo r use N otwithstanding th e gr eat physical si m ilar ity

.

betw ee n nit r oben zol e and oil of bitter al m onds th er e is y et a slight ,

difler en ee i n sm ell w hic h c an be de tected by an czp c r ienc ed n ose Ho w

‘
.

e v er nit r obe n z ol e i s v er y u s e ful i n sce nting soap and m ight be em

, ,

ploy ed with gr eat advantag e by confection er s and cooks pa r ticular ly ,

o n account of its safety be ing e nti r e ly fr ee fr o m ,pr ussic acid .

Th er e w er e besid es the abov e se v er al oth er a r tificial oils ; th ey

, ,

all how ev er w er e m o r e o r l ess com plicated and in so sm all quan

, , ,

titi es that it was i m possibl e to ascer tain th ei r exact natu re and it ,

was doubtful wh eth er th ey h ad th e sa m e or i gi n as th e for m er .

T he application o f or ganic ch em ist r y to p er fu m er y is quite n ew ;

it is p r obabl e that th e study of all th e eth er s o r eth er eal com bina
tions al r eady kn own an d of thos e which the ingenuity of the ch em ist
,

is daily di scov eri ng will enla rge th e Sph er e O f th ei r p r actical appli

,

cations T he cap ryl e th er s lately discov ered by B ou i s ar e r em ar k

.
-
,

abl e fo r th ei r a r o m atic s m ells ( the ace tate o f capr yl oxid e is pos -

se ss ed o f th e m ost intens e and pl easant s m ell ) and th ey p r o m ise a ,

lar ge har v est to th e m anufac tur er s o f per fum es .

! If th e wo rd fl avor had be en
“ use d by th e va r ious autho r s wh o
”

hav e w r itte n upon this subj ect in th e place o f t e wo r d per fu m e

h “
,
”
,

and th e wor d ether in plac e o f O il and essential o il the

“ ” “ ” “ ”
,

diss em ination o f an er r on eous idea would hav e been pr evented ; th e

wo r d p er fu m e appli ed to pea r O il pin eappl e o i l &c i m pli es and
, , , .
, ,

the g e n er al te no r of the rem a r ks of th e w r iter s l eads th e r ead er to

i n fe r that th ese substanc es ar e used by per fu m ers who n o t only do
, ,

n o t but cannot u se th em
,
i n th ei r tr ad e becaus e th ese ar tificial es
, ,

se n c es o r e th er s wh e n pou r ed u pon a handk er chi e f and h eld to th e

,

nose act as is w e l l known like chlor ofor m p r oducing also m ost

, , , ,

se r ious i r r itation O f the air pipes -

.

B ut fo r flav or i ng n ecta r lo z e nges sweet m eats &c th ese eth er s

, , , .
, ,

o r oils as the w r ite r s ter m th em ar e exte nsiv ely use d and quite in , ,

acco r danc e with asse r tions o f H ofm ann P layfai r Fehling and B as , , ,

tick H ow ev er th e glo r ious achi ev em en ts O f m od er n ch em istr y

.
,

hav e not lost anything by this m isapplication o f a tr ade ter m .

S E PT I M U S P I ESS E ]
8 94 IND E X .

C i nna m on ,
ar tificial otto o f ,
C i r cas sian c ream ,
C itr on ,
i

C antha r id es lotion ,

of per fu m es

e xt ract of ,
c r ea m ,

C atha r in e I I ouge
’
s r ,

of b ar i um ,

franki n cen s e, D etection of casto r oil ,

astile , alcohol in otto ,
 I N D RX .

D e term in e , th e valu e o f soaps

, to ,
hov e nia ,
as m in e
jen u i ,
water h
{ q
,

D isco rd o f s m ells , av e n d er ,
D istillation , l em on ,
lilac ,
l i ly o f vall ey ,
o f m agnolia ,
m ignon e tt e ,
m usk ,
m y r tl e ,
nar cissus ,
n er oli 3 ,
E ar ths , th ei r odor , or ange flow er ,
d e botot , pee 1.

b
ou r r ul er , o rr i s ,
pe C ologn e , patchouly ,
d e C hyp re , pear s ,
d e luc e ,
d es m i l l efi eu r s,
d e m ousse lin e ,
d e P o r tugal ,
E cono m ical scents ,

milk O f ,

water ,
Em u l si n es ,
au sem in ,

vio e tte ,
san
E n fleu r age, to nquin be an ,
E r in , flow er s tube r ose ,
vanilla ,
v er bena ,
v er v ein e ,

wall flo wer -

,
winter g r ee n ,

v o l kam er i a,
E ssenti al o i l See E SS E N . CE , &c .
,
also O TT , &c O .

E ster hazy bouqu et ,

E sti m ation o f soap ,

E xp r essi on ,
E xt r act See E SS E N C E
. and OTT O .
8 96 I Nn E x .

Hai r wash , 85 1
astr i nge nt , 8 58
F enn el , A th enian ,
F lag sweet
, ,
F l u d I tal i e
e r
’
, os em ar y r ,

F lower far m ing statistics , saponaceo us ,

m s, v ege tabl e 8 5 2 ,

F lowers o f E in r , Hay , n ew m own -

,
e xt ract o f , Hed i o sm i a,
of M ay, H eliot r ope,
of sp r i ng , xt r act o f
e .

Flor a b u et o u , po m ade 8 1 5 ,
F ountai n nger r g -
, sach et ,

F r an i pan i or igin of , , H enna ,

p ants at Kew , H on ey paste 1 ,
sach et , soap ,
n ki n ce n se at C hape l Royal , H on eysuckl e ,

at W estm i n ster A bbey ,

is olibanu m ,
Hon g r oise po m ad e , 8 16
F ull e rs ear th soap 2 72
’
, H ov e nia ,
F us el o i l to d etect
B ast ick on
,

, cam pho r
I ce , ,
Incense o r igin o f the use
, ,
w d er ,
F u m igati on ant ,
si m il e
r i tu r e
p ,

Inodor ous g rease ,

G a m ut o f odor s , Inter national bouqu et ,
G a r land , th e volunteer s ,
’
I ri s ,
G e m s , sce nting , Isl e o f Wigh t bouqu et ,
G e r anium r osy , -

G lov es , pe r fu m ed , per fu m e ,
G lyce r in e j elly , A lphons e K ar r at
lotion ,
bandoli n e ,

balsam 8 0 1 ,

Go ld e n hai r po wd er 8 8 1 ,
r os e and the P e pe ,
G r ass e se at o f th e ar t
, ,
G r ease inodo r ous
, ,
pu r ifying
fl

,
G uar ds bouquet’
, K ew G a r d e n n os egay ,
Kisses stolen, ,
H ai r , chan in color
gar i e A ntoin ette
e ,

,
O r sini ,
L ait v i gi
,
r
La p th p e fum
m ,
e r e, 1
l i th ar L au el r ,

shoul be avoided 8 28 , Lav end er ,

T u r kish ,
with m or dant br own , ,
8 98 I N n E x.

O do rs , ar ti fi c ial ,

a J a an es e
,
P er fu m book m ar ks
,
P er fu m es fi r st intr oduced
, ,
i n all
 IND E X
.

becom e i n o do r

sse nce of clov e

e ,

bloo m o f,
40 0 IND E X .

S ach et ’ wd ers ,
gi a, 24 1
égyp
c
r e,
fr angipani ,

h eliotr ope ,
lav e nder ,

m a r echal e ,

m ill efl eur ,
m ousse lin e

0 11, i

o r ange ,
1m ,
1

patchouly
plants ,
p ress an d d i e ,
powder ,
‘

r e m elting ,
r ose ,

r y pO ph ago n ,
P r eston , sand ,
s m elling , santal ,

S and soap , sper m ac eti ,

S antal , soft ,

e xtr ait d e , ston e ,

valu e o f ,
Windsor white , ,
br own ,

S oaps , soea cold ,

all colo r s ,

Soaping th e plan e ,
S oc r ate s on sc ents ,
S e nsitiv e n ess of th e ol factor i es S ’n ge,
fi
1

,
l
S i r i t, A r nall o n,

S pik e, and co r n ,
S p ik ena r d , th e r ight to u se ,

S m elling n egl ected, S p r ing flo wer s ,

salts , S tatisti c s of flow er far m ing ,

S till r oo m
-
,

S tills F r ench
, ,

syphon ,
S to r ax ,

S tol en kiss es ,
S typtic botanic ,
S uav e ,
esti m ation of , S ufii tu s,
excis e duty on , S u m bul ,