You are on page 1of 6

Theo the Teddy Bear

Designed by Kate E Hancock

Measurements

Approximately 7-8 inches / 17 – 20cms sitting using a DK weight yarn

Materials

• 100g ball DK weight yarn in Main Colour (Yarn A)


(Please note, you may need more than 100g if you are using an Aran or Worsted yarn)
• 50g ball DK weight yarn in Contrast Colour (Yarn B)
• Small amount of yarn for nose
• 3.5mm (E) crochet hook
• 3.25mm (D) crochet hook (for crochet eyes option)
• Small amount of black and coloured yarn (for crochet eyes option) or
• 2 x 20mm Safety eyes
• Toy filling
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker

Design Notes

This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology, if you are used to US terms, please be sure to
check the abbreviations to ensure you are using the correct stitch for the pattern. You can use any yarn
and appropriate hook to make this, but be aware that this will directly affect the size of the finished piece.
Amigurumi’s need to be crocheted quite tightly to avoid the stuffing from showing through, so if you use a
different weight yarn to the pattern, make sure to use a slightly smaller hook than the yarn recommends. If you
are making this for a small child you should use the crochet eyes version and not use safety eyes.
Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 1 of 6
Abbreviations rem Remaining
dc2tog Double crochet 2 (Same as sc2tog US)
stitches together
st(s) Stitch(es)
ch Chain
* = Repeat instructions between asterisks as many
dc Double crochet (Same as sc US)
times as indicated in pattern
htr Half treble crochet (Same as hdc US)
tr Treble crochet (Same as dc US)
( ) = Total number of stitches at the end of round
sl st Slip stitch
rnd Round
[ ] = Repeat instructions between brackets as many
times as indicated in pattern.

Pattern Muzzle
This Pattern contain instructions for making a The muzzle starts with a chain but is still worked in
poseable bear (with moving legs) or a stationary the round, so you are working all the way around
bear (with more securely attached legs, this is the chain in a spiral.
recommended if you are considering making this With Yarn B
for a child). ch6.
This pattern is made in a spiral of continuous Rnd 1: 3dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each next 3
rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the sts, 3dc in next st, and continuing around the chain,
round and move it up to the beginning stitch of each dc in next 3 sts (so you are working into the back of
new round as you start it. the foundation chain). (12sts)
Rnd 2: *2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st,
dc in next 3 sts,*2 times. (16sts)
Head Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 8 times.
With Yarn A (24sts)
Make a magic ring. Rnd 4 - 5: dc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. (6sts) sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. (12sts) sew with.
Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* 6 times.
(24sts)
Crochet Eyes (optional) – make 2
Using smaller hook and black yarn
Rnd 5: *2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts* 6 times.
Make a magic ring.
(30sts)
Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. (6sts)
Rnd 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* 6 times.
sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.
(36sts)
Using smaller hook and coloured yarn
Rnd 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* 6 times.
Ch3.
(42sts)
Rnd 1: 11htr into 3rd ch from hook. (12sts – ch2
Rnd 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* 6 times.
counts as 1st st)
(48sts)
sl st to top ch of 1st st in round and fasten off,
Rnd 9 - 11: dc in each st around. (48sts)
leaving a tail to sew with. Stitch the black circle to
Rnd 12: [*2dc in next st, dc in next st* 3 times, dc in
the centre of coloured circle.
next 18 sts] twice. (54sts)
Rnd 13: [*2dc in next st, dc in next 2sts* 3 times, dc
in next 18 sts] twice. (60sts) Eyelids (optional) – make 2
Rnd 14 - 16: dc in each st around. (60sts) With Yarn A
Rnd 17: *dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts* 6 times. (54sts) Ch7.
Rnd 18: *dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (48sts) Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook, htr in next st, tr in
Rnd 19: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (42sts) next st, htr in next st, dc in next st.
Rnd 20: *dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (36sts) sl st into last ch st.
Rnd 21: *dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (30sts) Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.
Rnd 22: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 23: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (18sts)
sl st to 1st st in round and fasten off, leaving a tail to
sew with.

Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 2 of 6
Ears and Tail – make 3 Arms – make 2
With Yarn A The Arms contain instructions for making a
Make a magic ring. poseable bear (with moving arms) or a stationary
Rnd 1: 6dc in ring. (6sts) bear (with more securely attached arms). Follow
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. (12sts) the pattern for both arms up to round 20 then
Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 6 times. (18sts) finish the arms in whichever way you prefer.
Rnd 4 - 6: dc in each st around. (18sts) Arms are worked from hand up.
Rnd 7: *dc2tog, dc in next st* 6 times. (12sts) With Yarn A
sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to Make a magic ring.
sew with. Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. (12sts)
Nose Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)
With Yarn for Nose Rnd 4 - 8: dc in each st around. (18sts)
Make a magic ring. Rnd 9: dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in rem 14 sts. (16sts)
Rnd 1: 6dc in ring. (6sts) Rnd 10 - 20: dc in each st around. (16sts)
Rnd 2: *2dc, 2dc, dc in next st* 2 times. (10sts)
sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a long For a poseable bear finish arms as follows:
tail to sew with. Rnd 21- 23: dc in each st around. (16sts)
Rnd 24: *dc2tog, dc in next 2sts* 4 times. (12sts)
Stuff arm.
Body Rnd 25: *dc2tog* 6 times. (6sts)
With Yarn A sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off leaving a tail to
Make a magic ring. sew with. Finish stuffing the arm and pass needle
Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. (6sts) repeatedly through all 6 sts, gathering together to
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. (12sts) close. Stitch firmly.
Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* 6 times.
For a stationary bear finish arms as follows:
(24sts)
The arms are now worked in rows and after
Rnd 5: *2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts* 6 times.
turning the instructions will read ch1, this stitch is
(30sts)
meant to add height and should not be worked into
Rnd 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* 6 times.
or included in your stitch count.
(36sts)
Rnd 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* 6 times.
(42sts)
Right Stationary Arm - make 1
Rnd 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* 6 times. Row 21: dc in next 13sts, turn. (13sts)
(48sts) Row 22: ch1, dc in next 10sts, turn. (10sts)
Rnd 9: *2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts* 6 times. Row 23: ch1,dc2tog, dc in next 6sts, dc2tog, turn.
(54sts) (8sts)
Rnd 10 - 14: dc in each st around. (54sts) Row 24: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 4sts, dc2tog, turn.
Rnd 15: *dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (48sts) (6sts)
Rnd 16: dc in each st around. (48sts) Row 25: ch1, *dc2tog* 3 times, work 4 dc across
Rnd 17: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (42sts) the row edge, dc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 dc
Rnd 18: dc in each st around. (42sts) across the row edge. (17sts).
Rnd 19: *dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (36sts) sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.
Rnd 20: dc in each st around. (36sts)
Rnd 21: *dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (30sts) Left Stationary Arm – make 1
Rnd 22: dc in each st around. (30sts) Row 21: dc in next 5sts, turn. (5sts)
Rnd 23: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (24sts) Row 22: ch1, dc in next 10sts, turn. (10sts)
Rnd 24: dc in each st around. (24sts) Row 23: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 6sts, dc2tog, turn.
Rnd 25: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (18sts) (8sts)
Rnd 26: dc in each st around. (18sts) Row 24: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 4sts, dc2tog, turn.
sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off. (6sts)
Row 25: ch1, *dc2tog* 3 times, work 4 dc across
the row edge, dc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 dc
across the row edge. (17sts).
sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 3 of 6
Legs – make 2 Right Stationary Leg – make 1
The Legs contain instructions for making a Row 22: dc in next 13sts, turn. (13sts)
poseable bear (with moving legs) or a stationary Row 23: ch1, dc in next 10sts, turn. (10sts)
bear (with more securely attached legs). Follow the Row 24: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 6sts, dc2tog, turn.
pattern to round 21 for both legs, then finish the (8sts)
legs in whichever way you prefer. Row 25: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 4sts, dc2tog, turn.
The legs start with a chain but are still worked in (6sts)
the round, so you are working all the way around Row 26: ch1,*dc2tog* 3 times, work 4 dc across the
the chain in a spiral. row edge, dc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 dc
Legs are worked from foot up. across the row edge. (17sts).
With Yarn B sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.
Ch6.
Rnd 1: 3dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each next 3 Left Stationary Leg – make 1
sts, 3dc in next st, and continuing around the chain, Row 22: dc in next 5sts, turn. (5sts)
dc in next 3 sts (so you are working into the the Row 23: ch1, dc in next 10sts, turn. (10sts)
back of the foundation chain). (12sts) Row 24: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 6sts, dc2tog, turn.
Rnd 2: *2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, (8sts)
dc in next 3 sts* 2 times. (16sts) Row 25: ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 4sts, dc2tog, turn.
Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 8 times. (6sts)
(24sts) Row 26: ch1, *dc2tog* 3 times, work 4 dc across
Rnd 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2sts* 8 times. the row edge, dc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 dc
(32sts) across the row edge. (17sts).
Rnd 5: *2dc in next st, dc in next 3sts* 8 times. sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.
(40sts)
Change to Yarn A Belly Patch
Note: do not start your colour change in the With Yarn B
previous stitch. Make a magic ring.
Rnd 6: Working in the front loops of rnd 5 sl st in Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. (6sts)
each st around (40sts) Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. (12sts)
Rnd 7: Working in the back loops of rnd 6 dc in Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)
each st around (40sts) Rnd 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* 6 times.
Rnd 8 - 10: dc in each st around (40sts) (24sts)
Rnd 11: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* 8 times. (32sts) Rnd 5: *2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts* 6 times.
Rnd 12: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* 4 times, dc in rem (30sts)
16 sts. (28sts) Rnd 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* 6 times.
Rnd 13: *dc2tog, dc in next st* 4 times, dc in rem (36sts)
16 sts. (24sts) Rnd 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* 6 times.
Rnd 14: *dc2tog* 4 times, dc in rem 16 sts. (20sts) (42sts)
Rnd 15: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* 4 times. (16sts) Rnd 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* 6 times.
Stuff foot. (48sts)
Rnd 16 - 21: dc in each st around. (16sts) sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a long
tail to sew with.
For a poseable bear finish legs as follows:
Rnd 22 - 24: dc in each st around. (16sts)
Rnd 25: *dc2tog, dc in next 2sts* 4 times. (12sts)
Stuff leg.
Rnd 26: *dc2tog* 6 times. (6sts)
sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off leaving a tail to
sew with. Finish stuffing the leg and pass needle
repeatedly through all 6 sts, gathering together to
close. Stitch firmly.

For a stationary bear finish legs as follows:


The legs are now worked in rows and after
turning the instructions will read ch1, this stitch is
meant to add height and should not be worked into
or included in your stitch count.
Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 4 of 6
Making Up If you are making a stationary bear finish stuffing
Starting with the head, stuff firmly and shape. Stuff arms and legs. Sew arms and legs firmly along open
the muzzle and place on the lower half of head – edges to either side of body in a standing or sitting
align the top of the muzzle to lie across round 12 of position.
the head and stitch on firmly.
If you are making a poseable bear take a long
Shaping the Muzzle length of yarn and stitch through the first leg at
Use the same coloured yarn as the muzzle to shape about 1 cm from the top, through the body and into
it. With a needle, stitch into the centre of the the second leg at about 1cm from the top (see
muzzle, 2 rnds down from the top (the point shown diagram) then stitch back through the second leg,
by the black dot on the diagram) and make a long then the body and the first leg in the same place
stitch, exiting at the base. Then stitch again in the and pull firmly. Repeat these stitches back and forth
same place, looping the yarn around the muzzle as through the legs and body until legs are securely
indicated in red on the diagram. Sew through these attached but still movable and fasten off. Repeat
two points repeatedly, pulling the stitches tightly. this process for the arms attaching them in the
Fasten off securely. same way, an inch below the neck.

If you are using safety eyes attach them now


between rnds 10 and 11, so they rest on the muzzle
and are just over an inch apart. Stitch eyelids on
making sure to curve them around the eyes.
If you are using crochet eyes sew them on firmly,
placing the centres between rnds 10 and 11, so they
rest on the muzzle and are just over an inch apart.
Stuff and sew tail to back. Weave in any loose ends.
Stitch eyelids on making sure to curve them around
the eyes.

Stuff the body firmly and sew to head along neck


edges. Place the belly patch so that the bottom edge
rests on rnd 6 of the body and stitch on firmly.

Using Round 5 of the head as a starting point,


flatten the ears and attach to the top of the head in a
slight curve (as shown in red in the diagram) and
when you are happy with the placement stitch
firmly. Place the nose with the bottom edge resting
on the centre of the muzzle and stitch on firmly.
Embroider a stitch where the muzzle is divided into
two.

Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 5 of 6
Theo the Teddy Bear Pattern Copyright ©2013 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.
www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk Page 6 of 6

You might also like