B.Sc.

in Fashion Design and Apparel Engineering

Level-4, Term-1
Course Name: Garment Surface Ornamentation
Course No.: FAD-404; Credit: 03

Lecture Session Title

4  Introduction to Lazy-daisy
 Introduction Ari work.
 Definition of Zardhosi, Cutwork
 Working process of Zardhosi.

Lazy Daisy
This is often used to give petal designs and small floral patterns. It consists of a single loop of
chain than a continuous pattern. Lazy daisy is one of the extremely easy stitches. This stitch need
not be limited to just petals and leaves but can be used for more complicated designs too.

How to do the Lazy Daisy

To assist our lessons, I will be making a floral motif. For that, I have made a focal point by
marking a small ring as my stitch line. My stitches will begin at the edge of this ring. Note that I
have used a multicolored thread and not threads of various colors to demonstrate this stitch.
Fig 1: Bring the thread out through A.
Put in the needle near A and bring it out
through point B, but don’t pull the needle out
completely.
Now, loop the thread around the needle, like
we would in chain stitch.
Fig 2: Pull out the needle out to
tighten the loop.
Put in the needle just outside the chain
created and that will finish the lazy
daisy stitch.

Fig 3: This stand-alone stitch can be used Fig 4: The completed flower made of
freely to be a part of any design. Since I have multiple lazy daisies.
decided to make a flower, I will proceed with
making multiple lazy daisies around the
marked stitch line.
 Aari Embroidery

A pen like needle which resembles the shape of a crochet needle, gives rise to an intrinsic form
of artwork called the ‘Aari work’. In this artwork beads edged needle is put to work, which
creatively gives rise to chain stitch kind of imprints. This work is popular for its delicate and
finest threadwork which enhances the essence of hand embroidery.
Aari work is a type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design
with a long needle which has a hook in the end. The needle is named as Aari, from which
the embroidery work derives its name as Aari work.
Aari work is considered appropriate for all seasons as it can be done on velvet, silk, cotton,
cotton silk, chanderi, and many other fabrics

Origin and History

Aari work traces out its emergence way back in the 12th century, which marked the rule of the
Mughal emperors. Floral motifs, traditional designs and fascinated the Mughal royals during that
period. This popularized and brought Aari work into the limelight. With time, places like Kutch,
Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Delhi started recognizing the specialty of Aari
embroidery, which marked the gradual popularity of Aari embroidery.
Present Day Scenario
Aari work has always been considered one of the most tedious forms of needle work. Today,
with the help of advanced stitching procedures, and the role of more artisans, it takes lesser time
to complete the embroidery work on an outfit.

Zardozi Work

Zardozi is form of embroidery that came to India from Persia. Its literal translation, “zar” meaning
gold and “dozi” meaning embroidery, refers to the process of using metallic-bound threads to sew
embellishment on to various fabrics. This heavy and intricate style of design is said to have been
brought to India with the Mughal conquerors.
It found a base with thousands of artisans who have passed on this trade among their families and
local communities. While the Indian city of Lucknow became a major center for this art form, its
exact origin is unknown. Till date there are numerous micro enterprises that specialize in
Lucknow Zardozi. It is particularly popular in countries like Iran, Pakistan and India.

The Ancient Indian Embroidery

Zardozi embroidery work has been a part of Indian culture from the start of Mughal Empire
.Latest Zardozi embroidery work is impressively ornamental and profoundly crusted gold thread
work has been practiced in various parts of the country. It became popular among the affluent
Hindu, Muslim and foreign people. Zardozi is believed to be one of the oldest and most lavish
embroidery styles in India. The delicately hand created work is treasured since time immemorial.

Sources of Inspiration

Lucknow Zardozi has more decorated and heavy designs, with a 3D quality to their motifs. This
is a similar style to the Delhi Zardozi work, whereas Hyderabad and Agra tend to keep patterns
minimalistic, with a focus on simple but large motifs. The inspiration for all motifs has always
been nature. From flowers, leaves and trees to animals and birds, the national ecology of India
seeps in to all Zardozi embroidery.

The Making

The techniques, tools and raw materials used to create Zardozi are the same across India and adhere
very closely to the original and ancient techniques. The basic technique is 4 fold:
• Designing: This is the initial stage of the process, where the entire design is drawn on to a tracing
sheet and holes are made along the traced pattern using a needle. While the patterns from the
Mughal period all comprised of complex nature, floral and leaf motifs, contemporary patterns are
more geometric stylizations of similar motifs.
• Tracing: In order to trace the design on to a fabric, the papers with the patterns are placed on a
flat table with the fabric underneath. Robin Blue solution is made and wads of cloth are used to
dip in it, which are then wiped against the tracing sheet. This enables the ink from the sheet to seep
in to the fabric.
• Setting the frame or “Adda”: The design imprinted fabric is stretched over a wooden frame.
The size of the frame can usually be adapted to the size of the fabric. Using bamboo or wooden
spars, it is then stretched out and tightly held to give the cloth a uniform tension. The artisans then
sit around this frame to begin the embroidery work.
• Embroidery: A crochet-like needle that is fixed to a wooden stick called “Ari” is used to carry
out the embroidery. As opposed to a regular needle and thread, the Ari greatly speeds up the work
as the artisans can pass the threads both above and below the fabric.
Present Day Scenario & Global Influence

The range of products using Lucknow Zardozi today are endless; dresses, coats, purses, belts,
stoles, shoes, etc. While there was a significant drop in the popularity of this craft post-
independence, in the last 50 old years it has seen a steady come back with large local fashion
houses bringing it to the forefront at Fashion Weeks.

Many designers have sourced this art from villages that have been specializing in Zardozi for
generations. Weddings, festivals and Bollywood films have also been crucial in bringing back
ornate Zardozi fabrics that still retain their classic, old-world charm, albeit with newer designs.

Zardozi embroidery sarees are extremely popular as bridal wear and other attires like lehenga
choli and salwar kameez which can be worn in weddings and other ceremonial and festive
functions. You can accessorize a dress made of zardozi embroidery with gold or diamond
jewelry like lavish Indian earrings and neckpieces with beautiful jootis. Glass colorful Bangles
also make a perfect accessory for a zardozi saree.