ROOF TRUSS FRAMING SYSTEM

Trusses are commonly used to provide support for roofs, bridges, and other expansive
structures. To put together a simple wooden truss, you'll fasten a number of pre-cut beams
into a chosen configuration inside a sturdy triangular frame, which will help distribute the
weight of the structure more evenly. Plan your project carefully using precise measurements
and reinforce the finished truss with both gusset plates and construction adhesive to make
sure it is built to last.
PART I. Selecting the Right Type of Truss
1. Measure your structure to determine how big your
truss needs to be. Trusses can be built in many different
shapes and sizes to accommodate the dimensions of
various structures. Before you can begin plotting the
exact specifications of your truss, find the overall length
and height of the structure being reinforced.

 A truss for a gable roof on one side of your home, for example, might need to be 15
feet (4.6 m) long and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) tall.
 The dimensions of your structure will determine the angles formed by the truss’s top
and bottom beams, or “chords.” On a relatively shallow roof, for instance, the upper
and lower chords may meet at a 30-degree angle on each side.[2]
 In some cases, building codes may dictate the size requirements of a truss for a certain
type of structure. Be sure to consult your local building codes before you begin
drawing up plans for your truss.

2. Use a simple king post truss to reinforce small,

lightweight structures. A king post truss design features
a single vertical joist that runs through the center of the
triangular frame. This style is useful for framing structures
that do not require quite as much support as structures that
bear more weight.

 A king post truss may be all you need if you are looking to add some extra stability to
a garden shed or gable roof.

3. Build a Fink truss to bolster a floor, roof, or deck. In a

Fink truss, the internal joists are arranged in a “W” shape,
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ensuring even weight distribution from one end to the other. Fink trusses were
originally invented for the purpose of beefing up bridges, but many contractors now
use them to increase the strength of interior structures.

 When fashioning a Fink truss, the middle of the "W" will be at the center line of the
triangle. Similarly, the points formed by the internal joists will connect at the
midpoints on either side of the center line.
 Due to the symmetrical simplicity of their design, Fink-style trusses can also make an
attractive alternative to plainer styles for ornamental structures like gazebos and
covered outdoor shelters.

4. Construct a Howe truss to provide unshakable

support from below. Howe trusses closely resemble the
King Post and Fink styles, only with additional angled
beams arranged around the central joist at regular intervals.
They are often built onto the underside of the structure
they're intended for.

 The internal angles in a Howe truss are repeated at regular intervals. Both sides of a
standard Howe truss, for example, might consist of joists forming opposing 90 and
60-degree angles.
 Because of their complex configuration, Howe trusses tend to be difficult to plan and
assemble and are most often reserved very large load-bearing structures.
 A Howe-style design will offer maximum reinforcement for multi-level structures, as
well as those built from especially heavy materials.

PART 2. Designing Your Truss

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1. Size the bottom chord 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) longer

than the floor. Start by noting the exact length of the
structure’s floor. Then, add 0.25 inches (0.64 cm). This
will account for possible inconsistencies and ensure that
the truss is a proper fit.

 If possible, use a tape measure to double-check the floor’s length rather than simply
relying on the recorded measurements listed in the building plan.

2. Incorporate overhanging top chords to add extra

visual flair. On some roof trusses, the 2 top chords
extend down over the edges of the bottom chord,
creating a built-in overhang. If you think you’d prefer
an overhang-style truss, adjust the measurements for
your top chords accordingly. Your top chords can
protrude beyond the bottom chord anywhere from 1–3
feet (0.30–0.91 m).

 Overhanging chords are more of a stylistic feature than a practical one, and shouldn’t
affect the overall stability of the truss.

3. Cut plywood gusset plates to fasten together

lightweight trusses. Gusset plates are used to secure
the connections between the individual truss
components. Fashion your own set of plywood gusset
plates by cutting thick sheets of plywood to fit over
each site where one joist meets another. This will
include all 3 corners of the frame, as well as the top and
bottom of each beam crisscrossing the center of the
truss.

 Use a circular saw or skill saw to cut your plywood to the right size and shape.
 Making your own plywood gusset plates will help you keep the overhead for your
project low.
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4. Use steel gusset plates to secure trusses for

weight-bearing structures. Depending on the
scale of your project and the specific building
codes in your area, you may have the choice to use
galvanized steel gusset plates. While these won't
be necessary for most projects, they can come in
handy for holding together trusses designed for
bridges, cathedral-style roofs, or other especially
large structures.

 You can order steel gusset plates from companies that specialize in construction
timber or steel-working supplies.
 Solid steel gusset plates cost quite a bit more than plywood ones, so make sure they fit
into the budget you've set for your project.

5. Create a detailed sketch of your truss design.

Once you have all of your measurements worked
out, commit your plans to a sheet of graphing
paper. Draw each of the major lines and angles to
scale, being sure to note their exact specifications
out to one side. Alternatively, you can use an
architectural design software to generate a diagram
based on the specific measurements you assign.

 If you’re drafting up your plans by hand, use a ruler to make sure that your lines are
straight, and the internal angles of the truss are accurately represented.
 You can find many helpful digital design programs for free or cheap online.

6. Submit your building plans to your local

licensing authority. Most cities have agencies
responsible for overseeing building codes and
regulations. After completing the design for your
wood truss, you’ll need to submit a copy to the
licensing department for your region in order to
have it approved for construction.

 If you are not sure who the licensing authority for your area is, run a quick search for
“construction licensing” plus the name of your city, state, or territory.
 The criteria used by your licensing department may differ depending on factors like
zoning laws, geographical features, and weather patterns. For example, if you live in
an area with heavy snowfall, your city will likely have strict requirements about the
bearing strength of your new structure.
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PART III. Putting the Truss Together

1. Measure and mark your timber with a pencil.
Before you begin sawing your raw materials, lay
out your lumber on a flat surface and trace a line
where you plan on making each cut. Precise
measurements are critical if you want your truss
to be sturdy and fit together properly.

 Refer back to the plans you drew up to keep track of

how long each piece of lumber needs to be.
 Use a triangle square to verify the angles at the edges of the top and bottom chords.
 Trusses for common structures like houses, carports, and gazebos are most often
constructed using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) wooden boards.

2. Cut your truss pieces to size using a

jigsaw. A jigsaw will allow you to make short
crosscuts through thick pieces of wood with
maximum efficiency. Set your lumber on a shop
table or between 2 sawhorses and guide the saw
smoothly across the measurement lines you
drew earlier to achieve clean, precise cuts.

 To prevent the pieces from shifting, consider using a table clamp to hold them fast to
your work surface.
 Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from injury while operating
a power saw.

3. Assemble your truss in the desired

shape. After cutting your lumber, gather up the
individual pieces and begin fitting them
together. Remember, you will need 2 top chords,
1 bottom chord, and at least 1 central joist for
support.
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 Study your plans closely to make sure you're piecing the internal joists together in the
correct configuration for the style you've chosen.
 Keep in mind that the angles formed by the internal joists will remain the same
despite differences in the frame's height or width.
 This is a good opportunity to visually confirm that each component has been cut to
the correct size. If you encounter any mistakes, you may need to start over with a
fresh piece of lumber.

4. Use construction adhesive to hold the truss

components together. Apply a generous amount
of adhesive to the face of each piece where it will
intersect with the next using a putty knife. Then,
carefully return the piece to its place in the
assembly. Press the 2 connecting pieces together
for 30-40 seconds to ensure that the adhesive
sticks firmly.

 For ease of application, look for glues that come in tubes similar to caulk guns.[20]
 Take your time to make sure everything is where it needs to be. With most adhesives,
you’ll have a window of 10-15 minutes before the adhesive begins to set. This will
allow you to reposition your components as needed.

5. Attach gusset plates at each

connection site to fasten the finished
truss. Apply a thin layer of construction
adhesive to the backside of a plate. Then,
flip it over and press it firmly into place over
a joint between two truss beams. Insert
construction screws every 2–3 inches (5.1–
7.6 cm) through the holes in the face of the
plate and use an electric drill drive the
screws deep into the wood. Repeat this
process at each remaining joint.

 If you're working with plywood gusset plates, you can drill your screws directly
through the plates themselves.
 Give the adhesive 1-2 minutes to bond before installing the screws. That way, the
friction of the drill won’t cause the plates to slip out of place.
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 Allow the adhesive to set overnight. The following day, your truss will be ready to
add on to the structure it’s intended to support.