Duck Carnitas With

Radish Escabèche
P. 59

P. 59

P. 48

P. 56

P. 46
 March VOLUME 65 NUMBER 2

STUFFED CABBAGE
HAS NEVER
BEEN CUTER.
P. 78

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.
HOME A WAY B AS I C A L LY

11 24 31 38 89
The Buy Talk You Destination Highly How to Do Dishes
Heirloom spices Through It Spicy jerk chicken Recommend Step 1: Stop “letting
that’ll supercharge An amaro spritz with tamarind jam. The neon-lit Egyptian it soak.”
your cooking. recipe so easy we Tangy injera with spot we stan, plus BY SARAH JAMPEL
BY SARAH JAMPEL could text it to you. tomato-tuna stew. other endorsements.
BY ALEX DELANY We’re off to D.C., ETIQUET TE
12 the Black food capital 40
The One-Sheet 26 of the country. Dish Decoded 96
Let’s take a deep Having People BY RYAN WALKER-
This cake has more Is It Ever Okay…
dive into fish sauce. Over HARTSHORN layers than your ex. Grocery shopping
BY ALEX BEGGS Please your guests BY RACHEL KARTEN
advice from
and maintain your 37
14 42 Alex Beggs.
sanity with this hands- Person of Interest
Family Meal off spicy, cheesy How chef Meherwan Shop Tour
The winter veg that Vintage meets ON THE COVER
baked pasta. Irani’s cooking
saves our weeknights, modern at Someday Duck Carnitas Tacos With Radish
BY ALISON ROMAN connects his Indian
and more. in Richmond, VA. Escabèche (for recipe, see p.59).
and Southern roots. Photograph by Laura Murray.
BY CHRISTINA CHAEY INTERVIEW BY BY ALEX DELANY
Food styling by Rebecca Jurkevich.
ELYSE INAMINE Lettering by Miguel Reyes.

2 – MARCH 2020
 March

THE FUNYUN
CONTENT
YOU’VE BEEN
WAITING FOR.
P. 8 0

44
Taco Nation
Tacos have taken
over Stateside.
Long may they reign.
RECIPES BY
RICK MARTINEZ

60
Going Dutch
In praise of the Dutch
oven, a kitchen
tool that really
carries its weight.
BY JESSE SPARKS
RECIPES BY MOLLY BAZ
AND CHRIS MOROCCO

68
Alternative
Food Pyramids
Cartoonist Liana
Finck takes nutritional
guidelines where
the USDA won’t.
70
Needs More Acid
When life gives you
lemons (or limes or
tamarind), cook with
them! Six recipes that
prove the bright and
sour power of acid.
BY ANDY BARAGHANI

80
Crispy, Inc.
The world loves
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

crispy. It makes sense.

Have you had potato
chips? But creating
crispy, crunchy
perfection isn’t easy.
BY ALEX BEGGS

IN EVERY ISSUE
8 editor’s letter
94 recipe index
94 sourcebook

4 – MARCH 2020
 GET DOWN YO U R N E W FAV E
WITH FISH SAUCE HOUSE DRINK
p . 12 R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w p. 24

With cinnamon
this sweet, who
needs sugar?

Read If
You Love
Flavor
A recent dinner party
ended with me
passing around a jar
of Burlap & Barrel’s
Royal Cinnamon,
begging my friends
to try it straight off
the spoon. Harvested
from an heirloom
Vietnamese species,
it smells like Big Red
gum and tastes so
sweet you’ll swear
it’s sugar-spiked.
Like all of Burlap &
Barrel’s products,
which are available
online (from $6;
burlapandbarrel.com),
it’s sourced directly
from farms and farm
cooperatives, which
means greater profits
for producers and
higher-quality spices
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN.

for me. Even when

I use half the amount
called for in a recipe,
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

my morning buns,
snickerdoodles, and
pies turn out brighter
and more fragrant than
any I’ve baked before.
—SARAH JAMPEL
 H o m e – Th e O n e - S h e e t

A condensed guide to cooking and seasoning with:

Fish Sauce
What It Is How to Use It
A fermented condiment typically A little goes a long way—sprinkle
made from anchovies that’s glorious a few drops anywhere you want a bit
umami razzle -dazzle in a bottle. of extra-savory funk. Try it in:

The Vinaigrettes Marinades

101
Pasta sauces Soups
where you’d
BUYING STORING use anchovies,
like marinara Stir -fries

The good stuff It stays good

has just two for several Braised Hello,
meats yogurt dips!
ingredients: years, though it
fish and salt. may darken
Some brands and concentrate
add sugar for in flavor over MAKE IT: NUOC CHAM
balance, which time. If your
isn’t the end of kitchen gets hot, This quick and potent
the world, but or if you don’t
anything else is use fish sauce Vietnamese staple sauce
suspect (e.g., often, keep it in pairs with any protein,
preservatives). the refrigerator.
salads, or roasted
H O W ’S I T M A D E ?
vegetables. Whisk 2 Tbsp.
fresh lime juice, 2 Tbsp.
fish sauce, ½ tsp. sugar,
ANCHOVIES
and 1 Tbsp. water in
The most commonly used fish; some a small bowl until sugar is
brands contain trace amounts of bycatch
like squid and other small swimmers.
dissolved. Mix in 1 finely
chopped small garlic
+
clove and 1 Tbsp. finely
chopped cilantro.
SALT
Draws out moisture and preserves the
anchovies so they can ferment for long A Fish Sauce by
periods of time without spoiling.
Any Other Name…
+ Nuoc mam and nam pla are among
the most widely available types
of fish sauce in the U.S., but it exists
in slightly varying styles all over
TIME the world. Maybe you’ve met a few:
The salted fish age in barrels for six months
to a year (or longer). Microbes grow BURMA LAOS
on the fish, deepening the sauce’s flavor. ngan-pya-ye nam pa
PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY

CAMBODIA M A L AYS I A
= tuk trey budu
I TA LY PHILIPPINES
colatura di alici patis
FISH SAUCE J A PA N THAILAND
The liquid is strained and sun-dried, Red Boat , our favorite Vietnamese fish shottsuru nam pla
then aged a month or so more in ceramic sauce ($9 for 250 ml; surlatable.com), KOREA VIETNAM
urns or plastic barrels before bottling. has a deep, not-too-salty flavor. aekjeot nuoc mam

12 – M A R C H 2 0 2 0 BY A L E X B E G G S
 Home

Family Meal
A warming pork curry, spicy katsu sandwiches,
and more recipes we’re loving this month

Napa cabbage
is a cinch to prep:
Tear the leaves,
then thinly slice the
thick white ribs.

Pick a head
that’s heavy for
its size with
a tight web of
leafy layers.

I T ’S H A R D T O
remember what we ate
before this Golden Age of
Brassicas. You know the
ones: Cauliflower. Broccoli.
Brussels sprouts. KALE.
(Seriously, what were we
doing before kale?!) In the
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

midst of these dark lettuce-

less months, we’ve also
been turning to juicy and
crisp Napa cabbage for a
fresh fix. The leafy, showy
cousin of the brassica family
is great stir-fried or added
to soups but also shines when
given the salad treatment:
Massage torn or sliced
leaves with a good pinch of
salt until well-seasoned and
pliable but still snappy. Toss
with a bracing vinaigrette or
use as a crunchy topping for
the curry on the next page.
— C H R I ST I N A C H A E Y

14 – M A R C H 2 0 2 0
 Home – Family Meal

Turmeric-Coconut 4 S E RV I N G S 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Curry With Pork
Come for the 30-minute curry. Stay
for the refreshing salted cabbage
you’ll want to put on everything
R E C I P E BY C H R I S M O R O C C O
½ head of Napa cabbage (halved
lengthwise), thinly sliced
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil
1 lb. ground pork, turkey, or chicken
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, grated
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened
coconut milk
Cooked rice (for serving)
Plain whole-milk Greek yogurt,
toasted unsweetened coconut
flakes, cilantro leaves, and lime
wedges (for serving; optional)

1. Toss cabbage with a pinch

of salt in a medium bowl, then
massage with your hands until
slightly softened, about 1 minute.
Set aside.
2. Heat oil in a large Dutch
oven or other heavy pot over
medium-high. Add pork and
cook, undisturbed, until browned
underneath, about 2 minutes.
Break up pork with a wooden
spoon or heatproof rubber spatula
and continue to cook, tossing and
breaking up as much as possible,
until browned all over but still pink
in spots, about 2 minutes more.
Add onion, season with salt,
and cook, stirring occasionally,
until softened, about 3 minutes.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Add
ginger, chile, garlic, and turmeric
and cook, stirring often and
reducing heat if bottom of pan
gets very dark, until vegetables
are softened and fragrant,
about 4 minutes. Add coconut
milk and ½ cup water and
bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until liquid is slightly
thickened, about 5 minutes. Each of the
Taste and season with salt. recipes in
this section:
4. Spoon rice onto plates and top
with reserved cabbage. Spoon Takes under
1 hour
curry over and top with a dollop —
of yogurt, coconut flakes, and Has 10
cilantro if desired. Serve with lime ingredients
wedges if using. or fewer
(not including
salt, pepper,
and one
cooking fat)
—
Requires no
special gadgets
or appliances

16 – M A R C H 2 0 2 0 P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY
 Home – Family Meal

Cauliflower Rice Pilaf 4 S E RV I N G S ½ cup sliced blanched almonds

1 large head of cauliflower (about ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
We love the combo of buttery
2¼ lb.), leaves removed, stem ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
almonds and raisins, but you can
trimmed, coarsely chopped into Kosher salt
swap in any nut or dried fruit
1"–2" pieces 3 Tbsp. chopped golden raisins
R E C I P E BY L A U R E N S C H A E F E R
4 scallions
3 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter,
divided

1. Working in batches if
needed, pulse cauliflower in a
food processor to break up
into rice-size pieces (be careful
not to overprocess). Transfer to
a medium bowl.
2. Remove dark green tops from
scallions and thinly slice on a
diagonal; set aside for serving.
Finely chop white and pale green
parts and set aside separately.
3. Melt 2 Tbsp. ghee in a medium
skillet over medium-high heat.
Add almonds and cook, tossing
occasionally, until golden, about
3 minutes; remove from heat. Add
red pepper flakes and cinnamon,
season with salt, and toss to coat.
Transfer to a large bowl.
4. Melt remaining 1 Tbsp. ghee
in same skillet over medium-high
heat. Cook reserved white and
pale green scallion parts, stirring
constantly, until golden brown,
about 3 minutes. Add raisins and
reduce heat to medium-low.
Add cauliflower and season with
salt. Cook, tossing occasionally,
until cauliflower begins to release
some steam and is just tender,
about 3 minutes.
5. Transfer cauliflower to bowl
with almond mixture and toss to
combine. Taste and season
with more salt if needed. Scatter
reserved scallion tops over.

Yes, you can make this

with store -bought
riced cauliflower—we
don’t judge here.

18 – M A R C H 2 0 2 0
 Home – Family Meal

Spicy Chicken MAKES 4 1 large egg

Katsu Sandwiches
If a katsu sando took a trip to
Nashville and got together with hot
chicken, this would be the result
R E C I P E BY C H R I S M O R O C C O
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup chopped bread-and-butter
pickles (optional)
2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup hot sauce
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 Tbsp. cayenne pepper
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 cups panko
4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs,
lightly pounded to ½" thick
¼ cup (or more) extra-virgin olive oil
8 slices milk bread, white sandwich
bread, or potato buns
Shredded iceberg lettuce
(for serving)

Rest the chicken on

a wire rack to preserve
maximum crunch.

1. Combine mayonnaise,
pickles (if using), and 2 Tbsp. hot
sauce in a small bowl. Season
with salt; set spicy mayo aside.
2. Whisk flour, cayenne, garlic
powder, and remaining 1 tsp. salt
in a medium bowl. Whisk egg
and remaining ¼ cup hot sauce
in another medium bowl. Place
panko on a large plate. Working
one at a time, dredge chicken
in flour mixture, turning to coat.
Shake off any excess. Dip into
egg mixture, letting excess drip
back into bowl. Dredge in panko,
turning to coat. Transfer to a large
plate or rimmed baking sheet.
3. Heat oil in a large skillet over
medium-high until shimmering.
Working in 2 batches, cook
chicken, reducing heat to medium
if it’s browning too quickly, until
golden and very crisp, about
3 minutes per side. (It’s okay to
add a splash more oil if needed
for the second batch.) Transfer
chicken to a wire rack.
4. Spread reserved spicy mayo
over one side of each bread slice.
Top 4 slices with chicken and
lettuce and close up sandwiches.

M A R C H 2 0 2 0 – 21
 Home – Family Meal

Chickpea Bowls 4 S E RV I N G S Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

With Lemony Yogurt
Our idea of a reset meal: A heap
of warm spiced vegetables
that feels anything but austere
R E C I P E BY A N DY B A R AG H A N I
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
plus more for drizzling
4 medium sweet potatoes (about
1½ lb.), cut into ½"-thick wedges
2 15-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed
1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
1 medium fennel bulb, halved
lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced (optional)
1 cup very coarsely chopped parsley
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Mix

garlic, coriander, cumin, and
6 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl. Add
sweet potatoes and chickpeas;
season with salt and pepper. Toss
to coat.
2. Transfer chickpea mixture to a
rimmed baking sheet and spread
out into an even layer. Wipe out
bowl; reserve. Bake, tossing once,
until sweet potatoes are tender Try cauliflower,
and chickpeas are golden brown, brussels sprouts, or
35–40 minutes. carrots in place
of the sweet potatoes.
3. Meanwhile, mix yogurt,
2 Tbsp. lemon juice, and a big
pinch of salt in a small bowl.
4. Toss fennel, chile (if using),
parsley, sesame seeds, and
remaining 3 Tbsp. lemon juice in
reserved bowl; season with salt.
5. Spread yogurt mixture into
bowls and top with chickpea
mixture. Scatter fennel salad over
and drizzle with more oil.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

22 – MARCH 2020
 Home – Having People Over

A Very Persuasive Pasta

Alison Roman couldn’t find a baked
pasta she liked. So she made one she did

CARBS FOR A CROWD

Th is h ands -o f f pasta is
great for a low -key dinner
par t y (o r e at it al on e o n
t he c o u c h wa t c h i n g N e t f l i x ,
we d o n ’t c a re ! ) .

26 – MARCH 2020 P H OTO G R A P H S BY DAV I D M A LO S H

 A
S A CRITIC OF
unfortunately soft and too-
saucy foods, the concept
of baked pasta has never
appealed to me. The whole “dump
ingredients into a baking dish and hope
for the best” thing feels like the food
equivalent of wearing sweatpants to run
errands (please don’t do it!). When it
comes to carbohydrate consumption,
you can have your baking dish full
of cheese pulls and overcooked penne
and I’ll take my skillet of al dente just-
glossed strands of spaghetti.
But then again, if I’m making pasta
for a crowd, I’d prefer to have something
that can be assembled, say, ahead of
time. Something that doesn’t require my
attention while guests arrive, can feed
up to eight people, contains more cheese
than should be legally allowed, and has
an almost so-retro-it’s-cool-again feel. So
I guess what I’m trying to say is: I want
baked pasta.
But I want a really good version.
I go the greens-and-cheese route,
which to me seems a little more elevated
than the tomato route. It reminds me of
broccoli-cheddar soup (a taste I enjoyed
as a child and have pretty much been
chasing for the better part of my adult
life), but better and with lots of texture
(my top priority).
Loads of wilted leeks and greens
(I like the bitterness of broccoli rabe)
get tossed with heavy cream (which
negates the need for a béchamel here—
I will do anything to avoid making a
béchamel), grated cheese, and very
Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.

al dente pasta. You can use any tubular

shape you enjoy, but I will say there is
an unspoken hierarchy, with, obviously,
rigatoni at the top and penne at the
bottom. (And okay, casarecce is a good
one too if I’m feeling fancy and at a nice
shop.) Please do not cook this pasta past
al dente—as the pasta bakes it continues
to cook and soften, and if the pasta
is past al dente, then, well, you’ll end
up with mush and that’s not what we
signed up for. Breadcrumbs—which I
would describe as extremely not optional
here—provide much-needed crunchy
bits (my favorite bits).
After it bakes for longer than you
think (you’re crisping and browning!),
you have a crunchy, still-saucy, veg-
forward dish of pleasingly al dente pasta
with browned breadcrumbs, wispy
greens, and bits of cheese. A baked pasta
even I can love.
 Home – Having People Over
Spicy Baked Pasta With
Cheddar and Broccoli Rabe
6 – 8 S E RV I N G S
This pasta offers the
familiar comfort of baked macaroni
and cheese but with pops of pleasantly
bitter bright green broccoli rabe
throughout. Serve alongside a crisp
salad with a simple vinaigrette to
balance out the richness of the pasta.
Kosher salt
1 lb. rigatoni, ziti, or fusilli
8 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
divided
3 large leeks, white and pale green
parts only, halved lengthwise,
thinly sliced into half-moons
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. (or more) crushed red pepper
flakes
2 bunches broccoli rabe or
3 bunches baby broccolini,
trimmed, coarsely chopped
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY CINDY DIPRIMA.
1 cup heavy cream
12 oz. sharp white cheddar, coarsely
grated (about 3 cups), divided
1 cup chopped chives, divided
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs or
panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
“I go the greens-and-cheese route….
It reminds me of broccoli-cheddar soup
(a taste I enjoyed as a child and have been
chasing for the better part of my adult
life), but better and with lots of texture.”
Preheat oven to 425°. Bring a large
pot of water to a boil, then add a
generous amount of salt. Cook pasta,
stirring occasionally to keep it from
sticking together, until just barely
al dente, about 2 minutes less than
package directions. Drain pasta,
reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid.
While you are cooking the
pasta, get the broccoli rabe going.
Heat 5 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch
oven or other heavy pot over medium–
high. Add leeks and season with salt
and black pepper. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until leeks are softened
(but not so much that they don’t have
any texture left) and starting to brown,
8–10 minutes.
Add red pepper flakes to leeks and
stir to incorporate. Add broccoli rabe
by the handful, stirring to combine and
allowing each addition to wilt before
adding more. Season with salt and
black pepper. Once all of the broccoli
rabe has been added, cook, stirring
occasionally, until bright green and
wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove pot
from heat and set aside.
Add pasta to reserved broccoli rabe
mixture along with cream, three-quarters
of the cheese, ½ cup chives, and
reserved pasta cooking liquid; mix well.
Season with salt and black pepper
and add more red pepper flakes if you
prefer more heat (keep in mind that
the saltiness and spiciness will increase
as the pasta bakes).
Transfer pasta to a 3-qt. baking dish
(or, if your Dutch oven is ovenproof,
just leave it in there). Toss breadcrumbs
and remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a medium
bowl until coated; season with salt and
black pepper. Scatter over pasta, then
sprinkle evenly with remaining cheese.
Bake until pasta is bubbling across the
entire surface and breadcrumbs are
deep golden brown, 30–35 minutes.
Let cool slightly.
Scatter remaining chives over pasta
just before serving.
 behealthyish.com

good food. good health. good vibes.

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

 Away – Dish Decoded

All! The! Layers!

At Grand Opening, a pastry pop-up inside Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco,
chef Melissa Chou puts a California spin on the classic Chinese sponge cake
by R AC H E L K A RT E N

The Sponge The Tippity Top The Lychee Layer

“A sponge cake is Chou makes not one but THREE different In the middle of the cake,
a really iconic creams for this cake. “Though they’re subtle, Chou slides in a lychee
Chinese bakery the idea is that there are lots of textures,” gelée. It’s a nod to the
item,” Chou says. she explains. While the two creams inside fruit jams typically found
“And what makes it the cake are light and airy, the crowning in traditional Chinese
appealing is that layer is a mascarpone -and-whipped-cream sponge cakes. Because
it’s really soft.” mixture to add some heft and tang. fresh lychees are hard
While some versions to come by, she relies on
rely on leaveners, a frozen French purée
Chou achieves and mixes it with gelatin
maximum fluff by for the gelée. Chou
whipping egg yolks spreads the gelée over
and whites before a pastry cream made
folding in rice bran of cream that’s steeped
oil, sugar, and King and then strained
Arthur unbleached with toasted coconut
cake flour. and coconut milk.

The Fruit

Most Chinese bakeries feature a pretty standard mix

of fruits in the cake, like mangoes and kiwis. Chou instead The pop-up takes place
the second Saturday
takes a cue from the seasons, which means strawberries
of ever y month. Pro tip:
in the summer and mandarins right now. She buys hers
Get there before it opens
from nearby Guru Ram Das Orchards. She loves that they
at 10 a.m.—it will likely
are juicy, sweet, and only slightly acidic—the perfect
already have a line.
complement to the rich vanilla-bean-and-beaten-egg-white
cream surrounding the citrus chunks.

40 – MARCH 2020 P H OTO G R A P H BY AU B R I E P I C K

Whether
wrapped in corn
or flour, stuffed
with crackly A young taco lover
at Kiss Pollos Estilo
carnitas or Sinaloa in Phoenix
crispy fried fish,
made in Austin
or Baltimore,
one thing is clear:
There’s never
been a better
time to eat tacos
in the USA

recipes by
RICK MARTINEZ
 Chicken caramelo tacos
and grilled steak tacos at
Sonoratown in L.A.
W HEN I WAS A KID,
my taco Tuesdays (and
Wednesdays, and Thurs-
days, and Fridays…) were
full of fresh flour tortillas,
saucy beef guisados, and ridiculously porky refried
beans. My grandparents came from Torre—n in northern
Mexico, and once they settled in Austin, tacos were a way
of holding on to our Mexican heritage, as common in our
house as PB&Js.
Even back then, tacos weren’t some mysterious entity for
most Americans. We had Taco Bell, after all. But the far-
ther you got from the border, the more likely that’s all there
Tacos in the U.S. are made possible by
the migration of people and that special
alchemy that happens when cultures
coexist. That’s what Mando Rayo
found while traveling the country for
his TV show, United Tacos of America:
the new and the tried-and-true; faithful
interpretations from across the border
and unique local creations. Here
are 11 he can’t stop thinking about.

was—a processed fast-food interpretation of what Ameri-

PREVIOUS SPREAD: PHOTOGRAPHS: BLAKE BONILLAS (LEFT); ALEX LAU (RIGHT). ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIEL SHEPARD.
cans thought Mexicans ate. TRIPAS
Tortiller’a y Taquer’a Ram’rez, Lexington, KY
Today, all that’s changed. You can eat Sonoran-style
Crispy boiled and fried beef intestines +
duck fat tortillas in Kansas; rich brothy birria in the suburbs local Kentucky corn + a rickety Mexican
tortilla machine = a very tasty example of
of Chicago; or bourbon-braised carnitas in Lexington what happens when south and sur collide.
(a.k.a. Mexington), Kentucky. Whether these tacos are an
homage to the O.G.s or something radically new, all the
best ones are instilled with a deep sense of place: made
with homegrown ingredients, local inspiration, and no
shortage of imagination. And the result? Tacos are not only
more dynamic than ever, but indisputably central to Amer-
ican culture, no matter which part of America you’re in.
That’s what we’re here to celebrate. In these 16 pages
you’ll find essays from fellow taco fanatics (including
National Medal of Arts winner Sandra Cisneros, author
of The House on Mango Street), tips on our favorite tacos FRIED MUSHROOM
8Arm, Atlanta
across the country, four brand-new taco recipes from yours Georgia-grown oyster mushrooms get dredged
truly, and so much more. So let’s, uh, taco ’bout tacos, in cornmeal Baja-style, then fried crackly and
smeared with Sea Island red pea guisado. A
shall we? — R I C K M A R T I N E Z coast-to-coast taco—but vegetarian-friendly!

Big Taco
Moments in 19 0 5 Though tacos gained popularity as a Mexican street snack in the late 1800s (and wrapping food in
tortillas traces back to the Aztecs), this is the year of their first known mention in a U.S. newspaper. Brought across
the USA the border by migrant workers, tacos were typically sold out of pushcarts in border cities like San Antonio and L.A.

CARNITAS SURTIDAS
Carnitas Uruapan, Chicago
Herb-kissed Michoacán-style carnitas are king
in Chicago, but none compare to this crispy-on-
the-outside, juicy-on-the-inside pork-fried pork,
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVIA HAYO (BAJA FISH); RINNE ALLEN (FRIED MUSHROOM); JEFF MARINI (CANITAS SURTIDAS); ALEX LAU (GOAT BIRRIA); LAURA MURRAY (PLACERO); BRIAN KAISER
made by the same family for more than 40 years.
(TRIPAS); HAYDEN SPEARS (SMOKED BARBACOA, DUCK CARNITAS); KATE GREWAL (COCHINITA PIBIL); DENNY CULBERT (SHRIMP AL PASTOR); BLAKE BONILLAS (KISS CHICKEN).
SMOKED BARBACOA
Eddie O’s Texas Barbecue, Houston
Traditional Tejano cooking meets Houston’s high-
stakes craft BBQ scene in these crazy-tender
pecan-smoked beef cheeks, served on fresh flour
tortillas made by the pitmaster’s abuela.
SHRIMP AL PASTOR
Taqueria El Paraiso, New Orleans
After Katrina, Mexican immigrants came to help
rebuild the city, creating in their wake Mexican-
Creole crossovers like this taco full of gulf shrimp
cooked to pineapple-y pastor perfection.
19 37 At Mitla Cafe in San Bernardino, CA, the Rodriguez family’s fried tacos dorados—literally “golden tacos”—
hit the scene. Three decades later a dude named Glen Bell would take notice, infiltrate the kitchen, and use them as the model
for the standardized hard-shell tacos at his own restaurant, a little place called Taco Bell. Perhaps you’ve heard of it.
GOAT BIRRIA
Goat Mafia, Compton, CA
A Jaliscan staple—meaty red stew laced with
chiles—gets the L.A. taco treatment with local
goat, dried chiles, chocolate, and California
oranges sourced from the chef’s uncle’s backyard.
COCHINITA PIBIL
Cocina Luchadoras, Baltimore
This Yucatán classic nods to Baltimore’s rapidly
growing Mexican population: Citrus-marinated
pork cooked under banana leaves is shredded
into a house-nixtamalized corn tortilla.
In Austin, tradition and novelty go hand in hand.
These blue corn tortillas are nixtamalized Aztec-
style, paired with not-so-traditional duck confit
carnitas, and topped with spicy green salsa cruda.
s c a Th i s o
le— ne
a c and ’s not
hic ye
ke s , t t o
n e ha
gg t’s
.
PLACERO
Horchata Deli Grocery, Queens
Yes, haters, NYC does have great tacos. But you
might have to go to Jackson Heights, a.k.a.
Puebla York, to find them. This one’s packed with
rice, chile relleno, nopales, and a hard-boiled egg.
BAJA FISH
TJ Oyster, San Diego
Just over the border from Baja, San Diego often
feels like an extension of Mexico. So do these
corn tortillas topped with hot battered tilapia,
cabbage, and a dollop of creamy, creamy crema.
KISS CHICKEN
Kiss Pollos Estilo Sinaloa, Phoenix
Leave it to the Sinaloans, one of Phoenix’s largest
immigrant groups, to make an excellent chicken
taco: charcoal-grilled, doused in cheese, sprinkled
with pork, and wrapped in two corn tortillas.
47
 OR GET
DOWN WITH
ALT-GRAINS
“Growing
up Mexican-
RESPECT American,
THE FLOUR I considered
tortillas part
TORTILLA of my identity. But I have
autoimmune issues, so
In Houston I grew up eating Texas-
style flour tortillas straight off the about 10 years ago I
electric press as my mom rolled went grain-free. My
balls of dough while watching
All My Children. When I moved family joined me but I still
to New York, my father mailed me felt like I was missing out.
tortillas from H-E-B, the world’s
Carne asada just doesn’t

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (FLOUR TORTILLA, TORTILLA PRESS, BONFIL FLOUR); HAYDEN SPEARS (TORTILLA MAKING);
greatest grocery store, because
nothing I found here would cut it. taste as good on lettuce.
But today a wave of small-batch So I got some almond
flour tortillerias are on a mission
to make the world a better place. flour off the internet and
When Ruben Leal moved to riffed on what I learned
Lawrence, Kansas, he was from my grandma, who
discouraged not to find a chewy,
stretchy Sonora-style flour tortilla always had fresh flour
that lived up to his nostalgic needs. tortillas at her house. I
So he started Caramelo, which
ships tortillas made with pork fat (as
made a grain-free
seen on our cover!), duck fat, or version and my mom took
one to Grandma. I
wouldn’t believe what

COURTESY OF SIETE FOODS (CASSAVA FLOUR TORTILLAS)

hometown in Sonora, Mexico.
freeze them, and never suffer a
Ah, what a relief! — A L E X
happened next if we
didn’t have it on video:
She said they tasted
better than hers! Now we
sell them, along with four
other alt-grain tortillas,
online (sietefoods.com)
and in over 13,000
stores across the country.”
—VERONICA GARZA,
BEGGS SIETE FOODS

19 5 5 Tacos get the official American food treatment of the day when a company named Ashley Foods of El Paso (a precursor
to Old El Paso) markets the first taco dinner kit nationally. It introduces the concept of tacos as “Mexican sandwiches.” Oof. The kit includes
Ashley brand canned tortillas (…no comment), beans, taco sauce, and…a tortilla fryer.
 FRESH MASA
FOR THE MASSES TORTILLAS
Until recently a house-made corn YOU
tortilla probably meant one formed SHOULD BUY
with masa harina, the just-add-water IN BULK
corn flour. Not anymore. Chefs in the
U.S. and Mexico alike are now making
THREE SISTERS
masa the way indigenous communities N I X TA M A L
have done for thousands of years— This Portland, OR,
with nixtamalized, non-commodity tortilleria may be the only
heirloom corn grown on small farms.
The ancient nixtamalization process
involves hours of cooking, soaking,
one in the Northwest
turning fresh nixtamal into
corn tortillas, sold across
HARD SHELLS ARE LEGIT
Washington and Oregon.
Long maligned as inauthentic, the crunchy corn tortilla
and grinding to unlock corn’s hidden deserves its place in the sun for mainstreaming Mexican
nutrients. But the minerally fresh-corn threesisterspdx.com
cooking here in the States. Lucia Rodriguez used what
taste (and extra dose of vitamins) was available to her in Depression-era California to
H AWA I I M A SA
is worth it. Need proof? Try the earthy, engineer Mitla Cafe’s fried-to-order taco dorado. The
Honolulu tortilla makers
deep crimson tortillas chef Fermín legacy continues at spots like L.A.’s Mariscos Jalisco
partner with Mexican
Núñez makes from Texas-grown farmers to produce five and Tlahco Mexican Kitchen in San Antonio.
Bloody Butcher red corn at Suerte tortilla types, named for — PAT R I C I A E S C Á R C E G A
in Austin, or TJ Steele’s rainbow the stone-ground landrace
Maíz Bolita masa, which he uses in corn from which they
everything from pancakes to cocktails came. hawaiimasa.com
at Claro in Brooklyn. — L E S L E Y T É L L E Z
KERNEL OF TRUTH
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHELSIE CRAIG (MASA); ALEX LAU (HARD SHELL); LAURA MURRAY (COSTRA).

O R GA N I C S

BUT WHAT ABOUT…

These simple yet
transcendent organic corn
tortillas, beloved by chefs
and home cooks alike, are
now dominating L.A.’s taco A “TORTILLA” MADE
scene. kotorganics.com

YO L I TO RT I L L E R I A
OF CHEESE?
Midwestern non-GMO Okay, technically
corn gets the traditional costra means “scab”
Aztec treatment in Kansas in Spanish, so
City, MO. The resulting maybe don’t google
white, yellow, red, and it, but one bite
blue tortillas are sold of this crackly
online. eatyoli.com blanket of pure
griddled cheese (!!!)
MANOS DE MAIZ
and you’ll be
This D.C. shop transforms
forever changed.
heritage maize from
Mexico and the U.S. into Just say “costra” and see what happens at:
fresh ground masa, then
sells it, along with thick C H I L A N G O S TAC O S Dallas • LO S TAC O S N O . 1 NYC
tortillas, online. L A V I B R A Houston • C H E L A’S TAC O S San Antonio
manosdemaiz.com TAC O C H E LO Phoenix • J Q ’S T E X M E X B B Q Houston

19 6 0 Second-generation Lebanese immigrants in Mexico City adapt the shawarma rotisserie technique into the trompo—
a vertical slow-cooked pork spit, marinated with pineapple and sliced onto a tortilla—which became what we know today as tacos
al pastor. It would take another generation, however, before they became a standard in taquerias across the U.S. 49
 Taco Lovers, Coast-to-Coast
Clockwise from top left: A server at
La Luz del Dia in L.A. holds up a #3
taco combo platter; a trompo full of
juicy al pastor at Los Tacos No. 1 in
NYC; a construction worker enjoys
shrimp al pastor tacos at Taqueria el
Paraiso in New Orleans; a traveling
musician performs for customers
at Sonoratown in L.A.; hard-shell
tortillas get a hot oil bath at Mitla
Cafe in San Bernardino, CA; taquero
Miguel Escobedo makes and
serves an average of 100 tacos
a day at his taco truck, Al Pastor
Papi, in San Francisco; the salsa bar
includes plenty of bright pickled
veggies at Tacos Quetzalcoatl in East
L.A.; a customer crunches into a
crispy taco dorado at Mitla Cafe
 RICK’S

BEET TOSTADA

“Many think Mexican food is heavy and meat-forward, but that

came with Spanish colonization—before, it was mostly vegetables.
TACOS ARE I tapped into that tradition by seasoning beets with chorizo spices.
BORDERLESS An egg on top adds Texas-style breakfast taco vibes.” —R.M.
DENNY CULBERT (TAQUERIA EL PARASIO); EMMA FISHMAN (MIGUEL ESCOBEDO); FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH (BEET TOSTADA).
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (LA LUZ DEL DIA SERVER, MITLA CAFE, SONORATOWN, MITLA, BEEF TOSTADA); LAURA MURRAY (AL PASTOR);

lime and cilantro.

In the Middle East, you put things in pita

bread. Is that a taco? Well, technically,
right? Every ethnicity has a taco.
Colonization has its ugly side but also
its beautiful side: bringing ingredients
to a place they weren’t before. MARGARET CHO
Borders are just man-made parameters comedian
that close people in. I don’t like
parameters around my life or my food. “My first fusion was back in the ’70s. My parents had a little coffee
That’s why the word fusion doesn’t mean shop in San Francisco that served bulgogi cheesesteaks. I’ve been
anything to me; everything’s fused obsessed ever since. Enter the kalbi taco from Kogi, Roy Choi’s truck in
already. Instead, I like to think of my food
L.A. It’s fusion done right. There’s the Korean tradition of wrapping
as a tribute. I do tributes wherever I go.
“I see you. You have this? Well, we have food, the falling-apart short rib, the kimchi-like salsa. It’s about the
this. Let’s make something beautiful.” immigrant experience. The freedom to take your culture and those you
— AS TO L D TO H I L A RY CA D I G A N
grew up around and blend them together.”

19 8 3 Rubio’s—a chain specializing in deep-fried breaded fish tacos referred to as Baja style—opens in San Diego. Though popular
among surfer bros in Southern California in the 1960s, fish tacos were eaten in Mexican seaside communities across the Pacific and Gulf
Coasts long before any of the Beach Boys were even born. 51
 From her grandfather, author Sandra Cisneros inherited a distrust of authority,
a deep hunger for home, and…his famous peanut butter tacos

“Á P U RO D R ÁC U L A!”That’s what I thought I heard Grandpa with canned tuna. Or fried bologna with mustard. Or his most
Cordero say. Pure Dracula! And why not? He was a man who memorable innovation—a peanut butter taco.
thrived in twilight, venturing from the kitchen or his bedroom Take a warm flour tortilla fresh from the griddle. Add just a
only to greet guests. “Buenos días.” Shaking even the children’s spoonful of peanut butter—it will spread. Fold the tortilla over.
hands, as if we were visiting dignitaries from a foreign country. The peanut butter melts and is even more delicious than on
Because Grandpa survived his wife by 15 years, he taught him- bread. This was my inheritance. Nowadays I substitute almond
self to cook. Even more miraculous for a Mexican man, he butter for peanut and leave the tortilla on the comal a little lon-
learned to make tortillas. Not the corn tortillas of Central Mex- ger, till it’s extra crispy. Is there anything better for breakfast
ico, where he was born, but the flour of the borderlands, a skill with a mug of café de olla? I can almost hear Grandpa saying,
acquired by hard times and forced migration north. “Buen provecho.”
Grandpa lived in a Chicago two-flat in a neighborhood City When he grew frail toward the end of his life, Grandpa went
Hall forgot. A dark building squeezed into a block of dark build- to live with my Auntie Margaret. He took to hiding food under
ings as sinister as rotting teeth. He had survived the Mexican his pillow, complaining, “Margarita no me da de comer.” “That’s
Revolution, the Depression, and two world wars. A campesino not true,” Auntie countered. “He forgot he just ate.” Pobrecito.
from the Mexican countryside with skin the color of red clay Grandpa began to doubt the route to the mouth. His memory
from his native Guanajuato, he wore squashed house slippers migrated. Auntie Margaret recently told me her father’s “¡Puro
and a bandanna tied around his brow like the Apache. In the Drácula!” was actually “¡Puro trácala!” which translates as,
summer, he cut the sleeves off his flannel shirts before Bruce “Nothing but cheating!” I heard it wrong. No doubt this is what
Springsteen made it cool. he’d say of the tortillas I make, with flour premixed.
Flour, hot water, baking soda, salt, lard. Grandpa would let Like many immigrants, Grandpa never returned to his home-
the dough rise, pinch fistfuls, roll them in his hands, and line land, but he planted seeds without realizing his harvest. He
them up in rows like an army. After the troops had rested, he passed down to me his peanut butter tacos, his mistrust of
rolled them out with a wooden rolling pin. Clunk-CLUNK, clunk- authority, and his hunger for home. One hundred years after he
CLUNK. Patting each tortilla in his calloused hands before plac- fled Guanajuato, I followed the opposite route, this time heading
ing them gently on the comal. I’d watch them bubble and inflate, south. Now I live in Mexico, one hundred kilometers from where
the house gradually filling with their warm scent, the heat caus- he was born. And though he was shy with children and might be
ing the kitchen windows to weep. surprised this grandchild remembers him at all, I recognize him
During the Depression, Grandpa bought flour by the sack in the indigenous faces I greet daily. Grandpa taught me to treat
and made sure his family never went without. Often he’d invite everyone with generosity—especially if they are hungry.
a homeless person to share a meal,

FOR JOSÉ ELEUTERIO CORDERO, B. FEB. 13, 1887, LOZA DE BARRERA,

even though he had nine kids to
feed. Maybe only those who have
been poor understand what it is to
be poor. GUANAJUATO, MEXICO, D. OCT. 4, 1974, CHICAGO

Like the people of the Mexican

countryside, Grandpa didn’t hug,
kiss, or even talk much. The lan-
guage he spoke fluently was food.
“El camino a la boca nunca se
equivoca,” he liked to say: One never
doubts the route to the mouth. And
then he would hand me a tortilla,
still hot from the griddle, with a
dab of butter and a dash of salt. Or
maybe he would improvise: a tortilla
CRISTELA ALONZO
actor
“I love the bean-and-egg breakfast tacos from the Laredo Taco
Company, inside a Stripes in the Rio Grande Valley where I grew up.
Yes, I’m picking gas station breakfast tacos. Go with me on this. They’re
simple but delicious and remind me of my mom, who used to cook double
shifts at a Mexican restaurant for $150 a week. She had very little
to work with, so her tacos had to be simple, just like these. When food
reminds you of your own life, you know it was cooked with heart.”

19 8 9 Fast-food chain Taco John’s trademarks Taco Tuesday® nationally (except in New Jersey, where Gregory’s Hotel, of all
places, holds the trademark and dares to also serve tacos on Thursdays). Both companies have held tight to their trademarks, much to the
chagrin of LeBron James, who tried and failed to get his own in 2019.
 DUCK CARNITAS
TACOS WITH
RADISH ESCABÈCHE
P. 5 9

MY RESISTANCE
In the kitchen, Manuel
Gonzales teaches his kids to
be Mexican and proud

W E S T A R T S I M P L Y : ground beef
tacos. My son, who is nine, stirs the
beans, pours the salt into the picante.
The kitchen smells like my mother’s,
mingling garlic and onions and comino.
I give him a wooden spoon and show
him how to break up the meat sizzling in
the skillet. My daughter chops onions.
I’m nervous when she grabs the knife—
she’s loosey-goosey with it, the way
gangly 13-year-olds are prone to be—
but she doesn’t slip.
“Perfect,” I tell her, as she slides them
into the skillet to brown.
After the climate strikes, the protests,
the marching in the street, cooking might
seem like a weak form of resistance, or
like no form at all. But as far as I’m
concerned, teaching my kids to make
the same slipshod Tex-Mex tacos my
mother made for me might be the most
important lesson I can give them. This
food tells them where they come from,
and more importantly, reminds them to
be proud of who they are. Because
without this pride, resistance—the
kind of sustained resistance we need
now, against an administration that
PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH.

calls Mexican people thugs and cages

children at the border—is almost
impossible to maintain.
When we bring the food to the table,
both kids chime in: “We helped!”
We eat and laugh, talk about school
and weekend plans. We talk about
things that make us happy and safe. We
talk about how good these tacos are.
RICK’S We don’t talk about politics—and that’s
resistance too.
DUCK CARNITAS This meal may be simple, but it’s a
way to tell my kids, “Look, people didn’t
want your great-grandmother here, and
“Carnitas are my favorite taco in the universe. My dad makes a some of those same people didn’t want
classic pork version, but here I use luscious slow-roasted duck your grandmother here, and some of
those same people don’t want us here
confit with crispy duck skin chicharrones cooked in pork fat. Same either, but here we still are. This is our
texture, same flavor…but extra extra, just like me.” —R.M. food, and we are still us.”

19 9 4 The Mexican peso crisis—a sudden devaluation of the peso against the dollar—leads to mass migration across the border
and beyond to places like Kentucky and New York. The upswing? Regional tacos such as al pastor, placeros, and birria come with them,
expanding America’s taco horizons for good. 53
 RICK’S

GOAT BIRRIA

“I may get some hate mail for this, but I’m not that into the thin
consomé traditionally served with birria. Instead of straining out all the
flavorful aromatics nestled up against that slow-roasting goat meat, “ TAQUITOS!
I purée them with the jus for a super-flavorful dip or drizzle.” —R.M. TAQUITOS! ”
You know him as Machete,
but one of Danny Trejo’s
most important life lessons
came from tiny tacos

B E F O R E I WAS A N AC T O R,
before I was a drug counselor, before I
had a record label and a beer company
and a cookbook and seven taquerias of
my own (Trejo’s Tacos—check us out;
we’re the best!), I was locked up in San
Quentin, and there was this guy.
I’ll never forget him. If you look up
“gangster cholo” in the dictionary, you’ll
see his picture. He’d always come by
saying, “I got burritos! I got tacos!”
Whatever was in the prison kitchen was
what you were gonna get: ground beef,
or if they had hot dogs, a weenie
wrapped in a tortilla. “Hot dogs, I got
hot dogs!” Let me tell you something:
When you’re hungry, they’re delicious.
The first time I got to the joint, this guy
comes by. “Taquitos! Taquitos!” So I
whistle: “How much are they, homie?”
He tells me in Spanish and I say, “You
know what, I just got out of the hole,
GOAT BIRRIA
homes. I ain’t got no money.” Then, in
TACOS WITH
unbelievable, perfect English, he goes,
CUCUMBER
“Oh, you don’t plan on leaving us soon,
PICO DE GALLO
do you?” I almost died. Because
P. 5 8 what he’s saying is, “Look, if you don’t
pay me later, I’ll kill you.” I’ll never
forget that: You might not pay anybody
in prison, but the taco guy is the guy you
always pay, because you always want

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH (GOAT BIRRIA).

to eat. — A S T O L D T O H I L A R Y C A D I G A N

JORGE RAMOS
news anchor

“When my son Nicolas lived in Miami, I’d take him to Talavera—the

best Mexican restaurant in town. Just the two of us. We’d get tacos de
queso fundido con chorizo. These hot three-bite tortillas filled with
melted cheese and meat were a taste of home. But more importantly,
they were a way to connect my American-born son with his Mexican
roots. To remind him that he’s the son of an immigrant. That kind
of straight talk is easier with an excuse like food in front of you.”

19 74 Mexico City traffic cop turned Los Angeles dishwasher turned entrepreneur Raul Martinez converts an ice cream truck into the world’s
first taco truck. He parks it outside a bar in Cypress Park, selling meaty soft-shell tacos topped with his signature homemade salsa. It’s so
successful that he opens a brick-and-mortar within six months, which today has expanded into the multimillion-dollar restaurant chain King Taco.
Juan Garcia, chef-owner of
Compton taco pop-up Goat
Mafia, makes birria from a
recipe passed down through
his family for generations.

55
 No taco is complete without a stop at the salsa bar, and we’re always
down with the classics: mild-yet-smoky salsa molcajeteada, deceptively
spicy jalapeño verde. But why stop there? You can make a salsa out of just
about anything—as long as you get the ratios right. Use this handy formula
to select by the seasons, the flavors, or just whatever you have hanging
out in the back of your fridge. The possibilities are infinite. — R . M .

Blended

MANGO
+
FRESNO
+
MINT
PICK A FRUIT, CHOOSE THROW IN
VEG, OR BOTH YOUR HEAT SOME HERBS
Start with 3 cups of Add 1 of the following One handful should do
your favorite fresh chiles—fresh or dried it; just make sure they’re
produce, or mix a few work fine. nice and fresh.
together.
•Jalapeño •Cilantro
•Tomato •Serrano •Mint
•Tomatillo •Habanero •Parsley
•Stone fruit •Chipotle •Tarragon
•Tropical fruit •Árbol •Basil
•Melon Chopped
•Cascabel
•Cucumber •Fresno
TOMATILLO
•Jicama •Thai +
•Berries KIWI
+
HABANERO
+
BASIL

ADD THE NON-

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH.

HOW MUCH
NEGOTIABLES TIME YOU GOT? Charred
and Blended
These ingredients 10 min.
always have your back. Throw all your items STRAWBERRY
into a blender. +
•1 cup chopped onion
THAI CHILE
•1 chopped 20 min. +
garlic clove
Chop everything into TARRAGON
•1 Tbsp. lime juice cute little cubes for a
•1 tsp. kosher salt pico de gallo vibe.

30 min.
Char everything but
the herbs on a grill or
broiler to maximize from all over the
smoky flavors, then toss nation, check out
it all in the blender. bonappetit.com/tacos

2 015 Welcome to the world, taco emoji! After years of griping from taco-hungry typers around the world, an official Taco Bell petition,
and multiple rounds of tacoless additions (including four types of mailboxes and 25 clocks), the Unicode Consortium adds to the official emoji
keyboard a tiny taco, cementing its status as pop culture icon. Except…it’s a hard shell. The battle continues. — T I M E L I N E B Y S T E V E N A L V A R E Z
PORK VOLCÁNES
A L PA S T O R
P. 5 9

RICK’S

PORK VOLCÁNES

“In northern Mexico, this

taco is called a vampiro
because the crunchy
fried tortilla looks like
a vampire bat wing.
Down south, it’s volcán—
maybe since they see
more volcanoes than
bats! Either way, juicy
pork al pastor and oozy
quesillo are a brilliant
combo.” —R.M.

Beet Tostadas
With Fried Eggs
MAKES 6 Beets can stand up to a hard
roast and plenty of spice. Their sweet
earthiness and firm texture are ideal for
making meatless chorizo. If beets aren't
your thing, winter squash or another
sweet root vegetable will also work.
1½ lb. red beets (about 2 large),
peeled, cut into ¼" pieces
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 Tbsp. ancho chile powder
1 tsp. crushed dried oregano,
preferably Mexican
1 tsp. paprika
¾ tsp. ground cumin
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
2⅓ cups plus 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil,
divided
1 large white onion, halved through
root end, sliced ¼" thick
6 medium serrano chiles, quartered
lengthwise, leaving stems and
seeds intact
⅓ cup sage leaves
6 6"-diameter corn tortillas
6 large eggs
Salsa de Árbol (for serving;
see recipe)
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to
350°. Toss beets, garlic, chile powder,
oregano, paprika, cumin, pepper, 1 Tbsp.
Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt, and ⅓ cup oil in a medium
bowl until beets are coated. Scrape onto
a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet; bake,
tossing every 15 minutes, until beets are
tender and spices are very fragrant and
smell slightly toasted, 35–45 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat 2 cups oil in a large
saucepan over high until oil bubbles
immediately when the edge of a tortilla
touches the surface. Carefully fry onion,
adding a little bit at time to avoid too
much spattering and reducing heat as
needed, until tender and beginning to
brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a
paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat
process with chiles, about 5 minutes.
Transfer to same baking sheet. Fry sage
leaves until crisp, about 30 seconds.
Transfer to baking sheet. Working one at
a time, fry tortillas, turning once, until
crisp, puffed in places, and deep golden
brown, about 1 minute per side. Transfer
tostadas to baking sheet.
58
Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large
nonstick skillet over medium-high. Crack
eggs into skillet, leaving space around
each one, and cook until whites are set
and edges are crisp, about 4 minutes.
Season with salt.
Spoon beet mixture onto tostadas,
dividing evenly, and top each with an
egg, then fried onion, chiles, sage, and
Salsa de Árbol.
Salsa de Árbol
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS This easy chile-
spiked cooked tomato salsa pairs well
with the beet-topped tostadas but is a
great sauce all on its own.
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 dried chiles de árbol, seeds
removed, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 14.5-oz. can diced fire-roasted
tomatoes
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Heat oil in a medium saucepan over
medium. Add chiles and garlic and cook,
stirring constantly, until lightly toasted
and very fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add tomatoes and 1 cup water, increase
heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until most of the liquid has
evaporated and tomatoes are very
tender, about 15 minutes.
Season tomato mixture with salt.
Using a potato masher, smash until the
consistency of a chunky salsa. Let cool,
then stir in lime juice.
D O A H E A D : Salsa (without lime juice)
can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and
chill. Add lime juice just before serving.
Goat Birria Tacos
With Cucumber
Pico de Gallo
Birria is usually served
10 –12 S E RV I N G S
with a side of consomé, the rich pan
juices from the roasted meat. We went a
step further and puréed it with the roasted
vegetables and softened dried chiles left
in the roasting pan, turning the brothy
soup into a spicy dipping sauce. If you
are a purist, you can skip the purée, strain
the broth, and serve it on the side instead.
G O AT
1 7–10-lb. bone-in leg of goat or
lamb, untrimmed
⅓ cup Diamond Crystal or 3 Tbsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
1 large white onion, chopped
10 garlic cloves, peeled
3 large guajillo chiles, seeds
removed
1 large ancho chile, seeds removed
2 dried chiles de árbol
1 3" piece ginger, peeled
2 whole cloves
1 14.5-oz. can diced fire-roasted
tomatoes
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. dried oregano, preferably
Mexican
1 tsp. ground cumin
S A LS A A N D ASS E M B LY
5 Persian cucumbers, cut into ¼"
pieces
½ medium red onion, cut into ¼"
pieces
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup chopped basil
1 tsp. kosher salt
1–4 habanero chiles, seeds removed,
finely chopped
24 6"-diameter corn tortillas,
warmed
G O AT Rub goat leg with ⅓ cup Diamond
Crystal or 3 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt,
working into flesh and fat. Wrap tightly
in parchment or wax paper and chill at
least 3 hours and up to 3 days.
Place a rack in lower third of oven;
preheat to 350°. Evenly scatter onion,
garlic, guajillo chiles, ancho chile, chiles
de árbol, ginger, cloves, tomatoes,
peppercorns, oregano, and cumin
across a large roasting pan and place a
roasting rack on top. Unwrap goat leg
and set on rack. Pour 4 cups water into
pan and cover tightly with foil. Bake until
meat is pulling away from the bone and
shreds easily with a fork, 4½–5 hours.
Let leg sit (still covered) until cool
enough to handle (about 1 hour). Shred
meat into small pieces and place in a
large bowl; discard bones. Remove
ginger from pan; discard. Working in
batches if needed, purée liquid and
aromatics left in pan in a blender until
smooth. Pour half of consomé over meat
and mix to coat. Taste and season with
more salt if needed. Cover and set
aside. Pour remaining consomé into a
medium bowl and set aside for serving.
D O A H E A D : Meat can be prepared
3 days ahead. Chill meat and consomé.
 Toss cucumbers,
S A LS A A N D ASS E M B LY
onion, lime juice, basil, and salt in a
medium bowl. Add 1–4 chiles,
depending on their heat and how spicy
you like things, and let sit 10 minutes.
Top warm tortillas with meat, then
salsa. Serve with consomé for dipping.
Pork Volcánes
al Pastor
MAKES 8 Thinly slicing the pork and
cooking it with plenty of marinade still
clinging in a hot skillet yields the charred
edges and deep flavor of traditional spit-
roasted pastor.
1 2-lb. piece skinless, boneless pork
shoulder (Boston butt)
7 guajillo chiles, seeds removed
3 morita chiles, seeds removed
4 garlic cloves
⅓ cup fresh orange juice
¼ cup fresh lime juice
3 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) paste
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
8 6"-diameter corn tortillas
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
12 oz. quesillo (Oaxaca cheese),
coarsely grated
Chopped white onion, coarsely
chopped cilantro, and lime
wedges (for serving)
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Achiote paste can be
found at Latin markets and online.
Place pork shoulder on a parchment-
lined rimmed baking sheet and freeze,
uncovered, until almost completely
frozen, about 2 hours. Using a very
sharp knife, thinly slice pork (shoot for
about ⅛" thick). Transfer to a large bowl.
Meanwhile, bring guajillo and morita
chiles and 1 cup water to a boil in a
medium saucepan. Cover, remove from
heat, and let sit 30 minutes to allow
chiles to soften.
Transfer chiles and soaking liquid to a
blender. Add garlic, orange juice, lime
juice, achiote paste, and salt; purée until
smooth. Pour over pork and toss to coat.
Cover and let sit at room temperature
2 hours, or chill up to 6 hours.
Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 350°. Evenly space out
tortillas on a baking sheet and bake until
lightly toasted and very crisp (edges will
curl and pucker), 35–45 minutes.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick
skillet over high until smoking. Spread
about one-fourth of pork across skillet in
a single layer; cook, undisturbed, until
browned underneath, about 2 minutes.
Turn over and cook, undisturbed, until
browned underneath and cooked
through, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a
platter and wipe out skillet. Working in
3 batches, repeat process with
remaining pork and 3 Tbsp. oil.
Increase oven temperature to 500°.
Divide pork among tostadas and top
with quesillo; bake until cheese is melted,
8–10 minutes. Top with onion and
cilantro and serve with lime wedges.
COOK THE COVER
Duck Carnitas
Tacos With Radish
Escabèche
Duck fat is delicious, but lard is
M A K E S 12
cheaper and easier to find. Of course, if
you just happen to have duck fat lying
around, feel free to use it. Just make sure
to strain and use the fat left over from the
cooked duck legs to make tortillas,
roasted potatoes, or empanadas.
DUCK
4 duck legs (thigh and drumstick;
about 3½ lb. total)
6 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3 Tbsp.
Morton kosher salt
1 lb. lard
4 morita chiles, halved lengthwise
1 bay leaf
1 3" cinnamon stick
5 whole cloves
1 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) seeds
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. dried oregano, preferably
Mexican
1 large navel orange, quartered
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise
E S C A B È C H E A N D ASS E M B LY
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. honey
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 bunch radishes, trimmed, halved,
thinly sliced
½ small white onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup torn mint leaves
3 Tbsp. torn tarragon leaves
1–3 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced
12 6"-diameter flour tortillas,
preferably Sonoran style, warmed
DUCK Prick skin on duck legs in several
places with the tip of a paring knife. Rub
legs with salt, working into flesh and skin.
Transfer to a medium bowl or airtight
container. Cover and chill at least
12 hours and up to 1 day.
Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 250°. Heat lard in a large
saucepan over medium-high until an
instant-read thermometer registers 250°.
Scatter chiles, bay leaf, cinnamon
stick, cloves, achiote seeds,
peppercorns, and oregano across the
bottom of a large baking dish. Remove
duck legs from bowl and brush off
excess salt. Arrange legs, skin side
down, over aromatics in baking dish.
Nestle orange and garlic around legs,
then pour warm lard over. Cover baking
dish tightly with foil and bake legs
2 hours.
Turn duck legs skin side up and nestle
back into fat. Re-cover dish and continue
to bake until meat is very tender and
begins to pull away from the bones,
2–2½ hours longer.
Let duck legs sit in fat until cool
enough to handle (30–40 minutes),
then transfer to a plate. Reserve 3 Tbsp.
fat for frying duck skin and strain
remaining fat through a fine-mesh sieve
into an airtight container and let cool.
Cover and reserve for another use (see
recipe intro for ideas!).
Remove skin from legs and set aside.
Pull meat from bones, tearing into 1"
pieces; discard bones and cartilage.
Heat reserved 3 Tbsp. fat in a large
nonstick skillet over medium and cook
reserved duck skin, turning halfway
through, until deep golden brown and
crisp on both sides, 12–15 minutes total.
Transfer chicharrones to paper towels to
drain and let cool 5 minutes; crumble
into small pieces.
D O A H E A D : Duck legs can be baked
3 weeks ahead. Transfer whole legs to a
large nonreactive container; strain fat
through a fine-mesh sieve over meat.
Cover and chill. Bring to room
temperature before removing skin and
shredding meat.
Whisk lime
E S C A B È C H E A N D ASS E M B LY
juice, honey, and salt in a medium bowl
until salt and honey are dissolved. Add
radishes, onion, mint, tarragon, and
1 chile and toss to coat. Add remaining
chiles as desired (depending on their
heat and how spicy you like things).
Top warm tortillas with some reserved
meat, then radish escabèche and
reserved chicharrones.
59
 ✦
CLAMS
ARRABBIATA
P. 6 2
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text by recipes by photographs by

J E S S E S PA R KS M O L LY B A Z a n d C H R I S M O R O C C O DAV I D M A LO S H
One-Pot Gingery Chicken
and Rice With Peanut Sauce
6 S E RV I N G S
We took loose inspiration
from Hainanese chicken rice to create this
weeknight-friendly dish that retains the
comforting and fragrant qualities
of the beloved original. Seek out the
highest-quality basmati rice you can find
(we recommend Daawat brand)—it will
make a world of difference in yielding
supremely fluffy, evenly cooked rice.
CHICKEN AND RICE
6 small skin-on, bone-in chicken
thighs (about 3 lb.)
¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 large shallots, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely
chopped
2 cups high-quality basmati rice,
rinsed
2 whole star anise
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY
½cup creamy peanut butter
2Tbsp. soy sauce
2Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
5tsp. Sriracha
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely
chopped
1½ tsp. honey
1 English hothouse cucumber, halved
lengthwise, thinly sliced on a
diagonal
1 cup cilantro leaves with tender
stems
CHICKEN AND RICE Pat chicken dry and
season all over with salt. Arrange, skin
side down, in a cold, dry medium Dutch
oven and set over medium heat. Cook,
undisturbed, until skin is golden brown
and crisp and easily releases from pot,
8–10 minutes. Slide thighs around
to different spots (this will ensure even
browning) and continue to cook until
deeply browned, 3–5 minutes longer.
Transfer chicken to a plate. Let pot cool
2 minutes.
Set pot over medium-low heat; add
shallots, garlic, and ginger and cook,
stirring constantly, until very fragrant but
not browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in
rice and star anise and cook, stirring
constantly, 1 minute. Stir in soy sauce,
¾ tsp. salt, and 3 cups water. Nestle
chicken back into rice mixture in pot,
arranging skin side up. Increase heat
to medium and bring liquid to a simmer.
Immediately cover pot, reduce heat
to low, and cook 25 minutes. Remove
from heat and let chicken and rice sit
10 minutes.
S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY While the chicken
and rice are cooking, make the sauce.
Whisk peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar,
Sriracha, ginger, honey, and ½ cup
warm water in a small bowl until smooth
and pourable. If sauce looks a little thick,
thin with a splash or so of water.
Remove lid from pot and fluff rice with
a fork. Pluck out and discard star anise.
Serve chicken and rice with peanut
sauce, cucumber, and cilantro alongside.
D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Clams Arrabbiata
4 S E RV I N G S
Taking the time to cook out
and concentrate each wave of ingredients
(slowly rendering the pancetta, gently
toasting the garlic, and letting the
tomatoes get concentrated and jammy)
puts three pots’ worth of flavor in just one.
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 oz. thinly sliced pancetta (Italian
bacon), chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes
24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
4 oz. ditalini (about 1 cup)
Handful of torn basil leaves
Country-style bread (for serving)
Cook oil and pancetta in a medium
Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring
occasionally, until pancetta begins to
crisp, about 5 minutes. Add onion and
cook, stirring occasionally, until softened
but not browned, 6–8 minutes. Add
garlic and cook, stirring occasionally,
until softened and fragrant, about
5 minutes. Stir in red pepper flakes.
Add tomatoes, crushing with your
hands as you go; increase heat to
medium-high. Bring to a simmer and
cook, stirring often, until tomato liquid is
reduced by half and tomatoes take on
a jammy consistency, 12–15 minutes.
Add clams and 2 cups water. Cover pot
and cook, stirring occasionally and
reducing heat as needed to maintain
a simmer, until clams begin to open,
8–10 minutes. Uncover pot and transfer
opened clams with a slotted spoon
to a plate. Re-cover pot and continue
cooking clams until they open, up to
15 minutes longer; discard any clams
that haven’t opened by this time.
Add ditalini to pot and cook, stirring
often (pasta will want to settle and stick
to the bottom of the pot), until al dente,
8–10 minutes. Add clams back to pot.
Ladle clams and sauce among bowls;
top with basil. Serve with bread
alongside for dipping.

ROUND? O VA L ? AND WHAT SIZE?

Dutch ovens typically come in
variations of either a circle
or a wide oval. There’s a time
and place for each, but the
BA Test Kitchen recommends
round vessels because they’re
a natural fit for round burners,
steamer inserts, and other
kitchen tools. They fit more
With so many options on the securely on stovetop burners
market, choosing the without the overhang of
right Dutch oven can feel like their oval counterparts.
a gamble. Here’s what you No overhang means more
should know before you buy. efficient heat distribution.
If you’re someone who
regularly roasts legs of lamb
and other party-size cuts of
meat, then going for an oval
may be the move. You can still
use an oval on the stovetop,
but it isn’t ideal for anything
that requires a lot of stirring.
These shine when cooking
dinners that require long stints
in the oven. The even heat
envelops them and creates the
ideal environment for a slow
roast or hearty braise.
A Dutch oven is an investment,
so it’s important to pick one
that’s right for you. Consider
how many people you actually
cook for. A 5½–6½-qt. one
will handle cooking for four
people (with generous
leftovers for seconds). But for
a bigger crew, splurge on
a large 7–8-qt. oven.
Be realistic! A Dutch oven that
doesn’t fit your needs might
discourage you from
actually putting it to work.

62
 ✦
O N E-P O T G I N G E RY
CHICKEN AND
RICE WITH PEANUT
SAUCE

After countless rounds of product testing
and some existential philosophizing,
the BA Test Kitchen still can’t choose
a favorite. Here we break down the
two front-runners.
LE CREUSET
Few names are as recognizable as
Le Creuset, which is beloved for its
beauty and durability. They are lighter
than many others. Their white enameled
interiors make it easy to gauge how
quickly food browns, though with time,
the white takes on a patina.
Round 5½-qt. Dutch Oven, $350;
lecreuset.com
STAUB
High quality, thick walls, and
eye -catching finishes are just a few
reasons why we’re smitten with Staub.
The darker enamel interior also ensures
that with a little care these ovens
won’t show signs of wear for years.
Round Cocotte 5½-qt. Dutch Oven,
$325–340; williams-sonoma.com
Lodge
Want an affordable option?
Look no further. 6-qt. Dutch oven,
$92; lodgemfg.com
Great Jones
We like the on-point colorways and
modern touches. 6¾-qt. Dutch oven,
$145; greatjonesgoods.com
Sambonet
Terra Cotto casserole dishes speak
to design-minded cooks. 11¾ x10" dish,
$270; sambonet-shop.com
Dansk
Multitaskers love that Dansk’s
Kobenstyle casserole dish has a
trivet built into the lid. 4-qt. dish,
$120; surlatable.com
64
Coconut Cod Chowder With
Seasoned Oyster Crackers
4 S E RV I N G S
Too often fish chowder is
heavy, gloppy, and one-note. Not
this one. Coconut milk and lots of zippy
aromatics bring life to the dish. And
though you may think oyster crackers
can’t be improved upon, you’ll change
your mind when you try the extra-buttery,
paprika-smothered ones we came up with.
1½ lb. skinless, boneless cod or
halibut fillets
2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
5 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter,
divided
2 medium leeks, white and pale
green parts only, halved
lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 3" piece ginger, peeled, cut into
matchsticks
¾ tsp. ground turmeric
¾ tsp. ground coriander
½ tsp. ground cardamom
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
12 oz. baby Yukon Gold or red
potatoes, halved
2 13.5-oz. cans unsweetened
coconut milk
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced, plus
leaves for serving (optional)
1½ cups oyster crackers
1 tsp. paprika
2 limes, divided
Season cod all over with 1½ tsp. salt; set
aside. Heat 3 Tbsp. ghee in a medium
Dutch oven over medium. Cook leeks,
garlic, and ginger, stirring occasionally,
until softened but not browned, about
3 minutes. Add turmeric, coriander, and
cardamom and cook, stirring, until
fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chile,
potatoes, coconut milk, 1 tsp. salt, and
¾ cup water; bring to a boil (still over
medium). Immediately reduce heat so
soup is at a bare simmer. Cover, leaving
lid slightly askew, and cook until potatoes
are barely fork-tender, 10–12 minutes.
Carefully nestle reserved fish into
pot, spoon some broth over, and cover,
leaving lid slightly askew. Cook at a
bare simmer 4 minutes, then stir in celery.
Cook until fish is opaque and flakes
easily, about 5 minutes. Taste chowder
and season with more salt if needed.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp.
ghee in a small skillet over medium-low.
Add crackers and stir well to coat. Cook,
stirring often, until golden brown, about
5 minutes. Remove from heat and add
paprika; toss to evenly coat.
Slice 1 lime in half and squeeze juice
into chowder. Taste and season with
more salt if needed. Ladle into bowls,
breaking fish into large pieces. Scatter
celery leaves over chowder if using
and top with crackers. Slice remaining
lime into wedges and serve alongside.
Squash au Vin
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
What would happen if
you gave winter squash the coq au vin
treatment? Layers of flavor from browned
mushrooms, wine, and miso that give
the classic a run for its money.
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 oz. crimini mushrooms, quartered
Kosher salt
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 large shallots, halved through root
ends, peeled
6 garlic cloves, 5 thinly sliced,
1 finely chopped
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1¼ cups dry white wine
¾ cup whole farro, barley, or freekeh
3 Tbsp. red or white miso
1 small kabocha squash (about
3 lb.), halved, seeds removed,
cut into 2"-thick wedges
1 medium delicata squash (about
12 oz.), halved, seeds removed,
cut into 2"-thick wedges
1 cup parsley leaves with tender stems
Zest of ½ lemon
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium Dutch oven
over medium-high. Cook mushrooms,
tossing occasionally, until browned and
crisp, 6–8 minutes. Season with salt;
transfer to a plate. Let pot cool 2 minutes.
Set pot over medium heat and pour
in remaining 3 Tbsp. oil. Cook onion
and shallots, stirring occasionally, until
softened and starting to brown, 6–8
minutes. Add sliced garlic and butter;
cook, stirring often, until garlic is softened
and starting to brown, about 2 minutes.
Add wine; simmer, stirring once, until
reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add
farro, miso, and 6 cups water. Bring to
a boil, stirring to dissolve miso. Reduce
heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring once
or twice, until farro is halfway cooked,
about 20 minutes.
Taste broth and season with salt. Add
squash (submerge the best you can),
cover, and cook until tender, about
30 minutes. Add mushrooms; cook just
until heated through, about 2 minutes.
Ladle stew into bowls; top with
parsley, lemon zest, and chopped garlic.
 ✦
SQUASH
AU VIN
 ✦
COCONUT COD
CHOWDER WITH
S E AS O N E D OYS T E R
CRACKERS
P. 6 4

66
 Lentil Kielbassoulet Stir mushrooms, lentils, and 1 tsp. salt from oven and finely grate remaining
8 S E RV I N G S
All the satisfaction of a into sausage mixture and add 8 cups 3 garlic cloves over breadcrumbs; toss
hearty, rich, bean-based cassoulet with water. Increase heat to medium-high to incorporate. Add fennel fronds (you
none of the painstaking hours of assembly and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, want to have about ½ cup) and toss
and cooking. Lentils, which do not require cover pot, leaving lid slightly askew, again to combine.
presoaking, sub in for beans, which and continue to cook, stirring a few Scatter half of breadcrumbs evenly
means the whole thing comes together in times, until most of the liquid has been over stew. Transfer pot to oven and cook
a single pot. Be sure to seek out black absorbed and stew is thick and lentils stew, uncovered, until some of the
beluga or French green lentils; they taste are barely al dente, 25–30 minutes. breadcrumbs have cooked into the stew
great and hold their shape. Meanwhile, pulse bread in a food and stew is bubbling around the edges,
processor until coarse crumbs form 13–15 minutes.
½ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin (the largest ones should be about ½"). Scatter remaining breadcrumbs over
olive oil, divided Transfer breadcrumbs to a large rimmed stew and cook until stew is very thick,
1 lb. wild mushrooms (such as baking sheet and arrange in an even 10–15 minutes.
maitake or oyster), torn into layer. Drizzle with remaining ¼ cup oil D O A H E A D : Kielbassoulet can be
2" pieces and toss to evenly coat. Bake until deep made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and
2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Remove chill. Reheat, uncovered, in a 350° oven.
1 lb. kielbasa sausage, cut
1" thick on a diagonal
1 large fennel bulb, fronds
finely chopped, bulb finely
chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled, finely
chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
11 garlic cloves, 8 thinly sliced,
3 left whole
1 Tbsp. thyme leaves
1¼ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
3 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato
paste
2 cups black beluga or French green
lentils
1 baguette, torn into 2" pieces

Preheat oven to 350°. Heat ¼ cup oil

in a large Dutch oven over medium-high
until smoking. Add mushrooms and
cook, undisturbed, until golden brown
underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn
mushrooms over and cook, undisturbed,
until browned on the other side, about
5 minutes. Season mushrooms with
½ tsp. salt; transfer to a plate.
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY CINDY DIPRIMA.

Add 3 Tbsp. oil to same pot and

add sausage, arranging in a single layer.
Reduce heat to medium and cook,
undisturbed, until browned underneath,
about 3 minutes. Turn sausage over
and cook on second side until browned,
about 3 minutes. Add chopped fennel
bulb, onion, carrots, celery, sliced garlic,
and 1 tsp. salt and cook, stirring often
until vegetables are softened but have
not taken on any color, 10–12 minutes. ✦
Add thyme, paprika, and red pepper
flakes and cook, stirring, 1 minute. LENTIL
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring KIELBASSOULET
occasionally, until paste darkens in color
and begins to stick to the bottom of pot,
about 1 minute.
NE E D S MO R E

It’s a piece of advice you’re likely to hear in any restaurant kitchen, and it really
ought to apply at home too. Making T A R T , T A N G Y I N G R E D I E N T S the
star is one of the simplest (and most delicious) ways to brighten up your cooking
by A N DY B A R AG H A N I p h o t o g r a p h s b y L A U R A M U R R AY
 2
.7
P
E
G
N
A
R
O
D
AN
S
R IE
ER
RB
BA
W ITH
KEN
CHIC
TANGY VI NEGAR

71
 ’V E C R AV E D A L L T H I N G S S O U R MY W H O L E L I F E .
As a kid I nagged my parents to buy me t hose puc ker y
c herr y belt candies at t he gas station. Dusted in citric
acid, t hey would make my mout h salivate at f irst sight.
While I’d like to t hink my palate has evolved over t he
past decade I’ve spent cooking professionally, I still f ind
myself reac hing again and again for just a little more
acidity to make a dish taste truly complete. Think about
it : From a vinegar-spiked herby sauce spooned over a
slow -braised piece of meat at a restaurant to t he many
recipes developed in t he BA Test Kitc hen t hat call f or
using a whole lemon (yes, t here is one in t his stor y),
acid is what keeps me coming bac k for that next bite. These six recipes put
a variety of sour ingredients front and center: c hic ken slowly cooked wit h
caramelized citrus, f ish glazed wit h stic ky -sour tamarind, and more. Next
time you ’re cooking, see what a sq ueeze or a splash or a spr inkle of some
kind of acid can do to your dish. I promise: It will be transformative.

Crunchy Pickle Salad
4 S E RV I N G SWe tend to favor pickles that
are bright with acid and low on sugar;
anything labeled “half-sour” usually fits
the bill. If using sweeter pickles, add a
bit more vinegar and salt.
½ cup walnuts
4 whole pickles (half- or full-sour),
halved lengthwise, sliced crosswise
into 1" pieces, plus 3 Tbsp. pickle
brine
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. honey
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
½ small white onion, thinly sliced,
rinsed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 medium fennel bulb, tough outer
layers removed, thinly sliced
crosswise
½ cup chopped dill
2 oz. Parmesan, shaved
Extra-virgin olive oil (for
drizzling)
Toasted country-style bread
(for serving; optional)
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on
a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once,
until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Let
cool; coarsely chop.
Meanwhile, whisk pickle brine,
vinegar, mustard, honey, and red pepper
flakes in a large bowl. Add onion and
season with salt and pepper. Let sit to
allow onion to soften slightly, at least
5 minutes and up to 15 minutes.
Add walnuts, pickles, fennel, dill, and
Parmesan to dressing and toss to coat.
Transfer salad to a large shallow bowl
or platter and drizzle with oil. Serve with
toast to sop up the dressing if desired.
Tangy Vinegar Chicken
With Barberries and Orange
4 S E RV I N G S
Dried barberries are
incredibly tart, more so than any other
dried fruit you’ll encounter. Look for them
at Middle Eastern markets or specialty
foods stores, or order them online. Dried
tart cherries will also work.
3 lb. skin-on, bone-in chicken legs
(thigh and drumstick) or a mix of
thighs and drumsticks
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. vegetable or other neutral
oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ cup dried barberries or dried tart
cherries, rinsed
½ tsp. ground turmeric
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
⅓ cup white wine vinegar
1 medium orange, halved
Preheat oven to 350°. Pat chicken dry
with paper towels, then season all over
with salt. Heat oil in a large skillet over
medium-high. Cook chicken, skin side
down, until golden brown underneath,
7–10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a
plate, leaving any fat in the pan.
Remove pan from heat and let fat cool
down a little (about 3 minutes should do
it). Return pan to medium heat and add
onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often
and adding a splash of water if needed
to keep onion from getting too dark, until
onion is softened and golden brown,
6–8 minutes. Stir in barberries, turmeric,
and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring,
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour in
vinegar and 1 cup water, season lightly
with salt, and bring to a simmer.
Arrange chicken, skin side up, in
sauce, then nestle orange halves, cut side
down, around chicken. Transfer skillet to
oven and bake, uncovered, until sauce is
reduced and chicken is cooked through,
30–35 minutes (or 20–25 minutes for
separated things and drumsticks).
Transfer chicken to a platter. Spoon
sauce over, then squeeze juice from
orange halves on top.

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 PA R M E S A N
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 Pasta With Brown Butter,
Whole Lemon, and Parmesan
4 S E RV I N G S
Using a sliced whole lemon
gives unbeatably fresh aroma from the
skin, bitter complexity from the pith, and
tart, puckery juice from the flesh. Thin
slices soften evenly and ensure that the
lemon plays nicely with the pasta, butter,
and Parmesan.
1 lb. short tube pasta (such as
paccheri or rigatoni)
Kosher salt
8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter,
cut into pieces, divided
1 small regular lemon or Meyer
lemon, very thinly sliced into
rounds, seeds removed
1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated,
plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
generously salted water, stirring
occasionally, until very al dente, about
2 minutes less than package directions
(pasta will finish cooking in the sauce).
Meanwhile, heat half of the butter in
a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot
over medium until melted. Add lemon
slices and cook, stirring often, until
softened and bottom of pot is browned
in spots, 5–7 minutes. Using tongs,
transfer one-third of lemon slices to a
plate; set aside.
Just before pasta is al dente, scoop
out 2 cups pasta cooking liquid. Add
1½ cups pasta cooking liquid to butter
sauce. (This may seem like a lot of liquid,
but it will thicken once the remaining
ingredients are added.) Add remaining
butter a piece at a time, whisking until
each piece is incorporated before
adding more, until the sauce is emulsified
and creamy.
Drain pasta and add to sauce.
Cook, stirring often and adding 1 oz.
Parmesan a little at a time. Once all of
the cheese is added, continue to cook,
still stirring, until cheese is melted and
sauce is creamy and clings to pasta,
about 3 minutes. If sauce looks very
ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAY HICKSON
thick, add more pasta cooking liquid
1–2 Tbsp. at a time to thin (saucier
is ideal as it will thicken as it cools).
Remove from heat and sprinkle with an
almost ridiculous amount of pepper
(about 2 tsp.); toss once more.
Serve pasta topped with reserved
lemon rounds and more Parmesan.
Grains in Herby Buttermilk
4 S E RV I N G S
The herbed sauce in this grain
dish gets a double hit of punchy dairy:
Not as sharp as other acidic ingredients,
buttermilk lends a unique tang and yogurt
brings body and richness.
1 cup mixed unhulled grains (such as
spelt, whole barley, and/or whole
farro)
1 small onion, unpeeled, halved
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 3x1" strips lemon zest
Kosher salt
1½ cups parsley leaves with tender
stems
1 cup dill fronds
1 cup buttermilk, preferably room
temperature
½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt,
preferably room temperature
½ lemon
Extra-virgin olive oil (for
drizzling)
Freshly ground black pepper
Toast grains in a dry medium heavy pot
over medium heat, stirring occasionally,
until just slightly darkened and beginning
to smell nutty, about 4 minutes. Pour
in 4 cups water, then add onion, garlic,
lemon zest, and a couple of big pinches
of salt; stir to combine. Bring mixture to
a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low
and simmer, stirring occasionally and
skimming any foam from surface as
needed, until grains are tender (pull out
a few grains and take a bite to test),
35–45 minutes; pluck out and discard
onion, garlic, and lemon zest.
Meanwhile, purée parsley, dill,
buttermilk, and a big pinch of salt in a
blender until bright green and smooth.
Pour into a medium bowl, add yogurt,
and whisk until your arm gets a bit
tired—3 minutes should do the trick
(whisking the mixture well will ensure
that the yogurt doesn’t split and get
grainy when you add it to the grains).
Pour buttermilk mixture over grains.
Increase heat to medium and bring to
a bare simmer. Cook just until heated
through, about 1 minute. Remove from
heat and squeeze in juice from lemon
half. Stir well, then taste grains and
season with more salt if needed. Skim
any foam from surface.
Ladle grains into bowls. Drizzle some
oil into each bowl and top with coarsely
ground pepper.
77
Stuffed Cabbage With
Lemony Rice and Sumac
4 S E RV I N G S
With its crinkly texture,
savoy cabbage is our go-to for stuffed
cabbage, but the regular ol’ green
variety also works. Both will become
meltingly tender.
12–14 large savoy or green cabbage
leaves (from 1 large head)
Kosher salt
¾ cup long-grain white rice (such as
basmati or jasmine), rinsed
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
1 large onion, finely chopped
½ cup pine nuts
1 cup finely chopped mixed tender
herbs (such as parsley, mint, dill,
and/or tarragon)
⅓ cup chopped golden or brown
raisins
2 Tbsp. sumac, plus more for serving
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 large egg, beaten to blend
Freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Sour cream (for serving)
INGREDIENT INFO: Sumac, a tart, citrusy
spice generally sold in ground form,
can be found at Middle Eastern markets,
specialty foods stores, and online.
Line a baking sheet with a clean kitchen
towel or a few layers of paper towels;
set aside. Working in batches, cook
cabbage leaves in a large pot of boiling
generously salted water until bright
green and pliable, about 2 minutes per
batch. Transfer leaves to a bowl of ice
water to cool; reserve pot of water for
cooking rice. Transfer cabbage leaves
to prepared baking sheet and let drain.
Return water in pot to a boil and
cook rice, stirring often, until grains swell
and rise to the surface, 3–6 minutes
(depending on quality of rice). Bite
into a few grains to test; they should be
al dente (rice will finish cooking when
baked inside the cabbage). Drain rice
and rinse under cold running water to
stop it from cooking further. Drain again
and transfer to a large bowl.
Wipe out pot. Pour in ¼ cup oil and
set pot over medium heat. Add onion
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
softened and golden, 7–9 minutes.
Add pine nuts and cook, stirring often,
until nuts smell toasty and have slightly
78
darkened in color and onion is almost
jammy, about 5 minutes. Mix in herbs,
raisins, and 2 Tbsp. sumac and cook, still
stirring, until herbs have slightly darkened
in color and are very fragrant, about
2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in
lemon juice; let cool 5 minutes.
Add onion mixture and egg to rice
and mix well; season generously with
salt and pepper. Wipe out pot; reserve.
Working with 1 cabbage leaf at a time,
cut out the thickest part of rib by making
a thin V-shape; discard. Place 3 heaping
Tbsp. filling in the center, running
crosswise across leaf. Starting at the
base where you cut the V, fold notched
side of leaf up and over filling, then fold
in sides and roll up leaf like a burrito.
Arrange cabbage rolls, seam side
down, in a single layer in reserved pot.
Add butter and ½ cup water and bring
to a simmer over medium-high heat.
Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and
steam rolls until filling is cooked through
and leaves are tender, 18–25 minutes.
Divide cabbage rolls among plates;
drizzle with oil and sprinkle with sumac
and pepper. Serve with sour cream.
Tamarind-Glazed Black Bass
With Coconut-Herb Salad
4 S E RV I N G S
This sweet-and-sour glaze
will work on other proteins besides fish.
If you’re using it on grilled meats like
chicken, steaks, or ribs, brush on the
glaze toward the end of the cooking
process so the sugars don’t burn.
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut
3 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil or a neutral
oil (such as grapeseed or
vegetable)
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced into
rings
Kosher salt
1 2" piece ginger, scrubbed, thinly
sliced lengthwise
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 Tbsp. double-concentrated
tomato paste
¼ cup tamarind concentrate
2 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce
2 1½–2-lb. head-on whole black sea
bass or red snapper, cleaned
3 Thai chiles or 2 serrano chiles,
thinly sliced
1 cup mint leaves, torn if large
Lime wedges (for serving)
INGREDIENT INFO: Tamarind concentrate,
often labeled “concentrate cooking
tamarind,” can be found at Asian and
Thai markets and online. We like
Tamicon Tamarind Concentrate ($7;
thespicehouse.com). You can also use
tamarind paste, a dense brick of dried
tamarind pulp that isn’t as concentrated
in flavor and needs to be thinned with
water until spoonable. Use the same
amount as you would concentrate.
Toast coconut in a dry medium saucepan
over medium heat, stirring often, until
golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to
a small bowl.
Wipe out saucepan. Combine oil
and shallots in saucepan and set over
medium-high heat. Cook, stirring
often, until shallots are golden brown
and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer shallots to paper
towels to drain; immediately season
with salt.
Reduce heat to medium and add
ginger and garlic to saucepan. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until browned
in spots, about 4 minutes. Add tomato
paste and cook, stirring constantly, until
paste splits and color darkens slightly,
about 2 minutes. Add tamarind
concentrate, honey, and soy sauce and
cook, stirring constantly, until glaze is
smooth and just beginning to bubble,
about 1 minute. Remove pan from heat;
taste glaze and season with salt.
Place a rack in upper third of oven;
preheat to 425°. Place 1 fish on a cutting
board and thoroughly pat dry inside
and out with paper towels. Using a
sharp knife, make slashes crosswise on
a diagonal about every 2" along length
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.
of body (make sure to cut all the way
down to the bones as this will help the
fish cook evenly). Turn fish over and
repeat process on the other side. Transfer
fish to a parchment-lined baking sheet,
then repeat with remaining fish.
Season both fish all over with salt.
Brush both sides with about half of the
glaze, leaving the garlic and ginger
behind. Roast fish, brushing with
remaining glaze halfway through, until
glaze is sticky and flesh flakes easily
with a fork, 16–20 minutes.
Arrange fish on a large platter or
2 smaller platters and scatter toasted
coconut, crispy shallots, chiles, and
mint evenly on top. Serve with lime
wedges alongside for squeezing over.
TAMARIND-GLAZED BLACK BASS WITH COCONUT-HERB SALAD
 c.
In

80
 hick en?
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Wh y Biolo

photographs by ALEX L AU
 WO BEACH CHAIRS sit side by side in front of the glitter-
ing blue ocean. The sun is shining. And in between those
chairs, nestled in the warm sand, is a perky yellow bag
of Funyuns. ¶ That’s a mural I saw in the Frito-Lay head-
quarters in Plano, Texas. I was there! My pilgrimage to
the pinnacle of potato chips! Each step I took down those
carpeted corporate hallways was a bounce. I love potato
chips. I love snack foods as a whole category, but chips are my number one. I have
a stash under my desk that I share on our office snack table when the mood calls
for it. I have a designated “chip plate” my coworkers know by name. At my last
job I became known for shrieking “They put chips on your sandwich!” every time
we ate at a local lunch spot (that had no other redeeming qualities).
I’m trying to set myself up here to explain how I ended up at First, Put On a Lab Coat
Frito-Lay headquarters, standing in a stainless-steel-outfitted
Culinary Innovation Center in front of a spread of chips, accept- The study of crispy started in the food lab that brought the
ing a strawberry Bubly water from a guy called Chef Jody. world Jell-O, instant coffee, and a Seinfeldian array of break-
Because the thing about chips is, they’re perfect. The reason fast cereals: General Foods (now owned by Kraft Heinz). Scien-
chips are perfect is their texture. They’re crispy. And crispy tists weren’t paying close attention to food texture until the
foods are the best foods. legendary General Foods research scientist Alina Szczesniak
Okay, fine! I also like jiggly. A colleague of mine wrote a broke it wide open in the ’50s. Me summarizing her work:
piece about the beauty of chewy. Another is enamored with “Everyone’s obsessing over how foods taste and totally ignor-
“crispy gone soggy.” There are other fantastic food textures ing how important TEXTURE is to the experience of FLAVOR.”
out there. But why is crispy so alluring, so valuable, so desir- The other scientists: “Oh daaaaaaaaaamn. She’s right.”
able? Bon Appétit used it around 500 times (I’m rounding up) Szczesniak, who died in 2016, laid out a scientific range to
last year to describe everything from salmon skin to the top evaluate food texture based on eight qualities, like hardness
of baked French toast. Frito-Lay yearns to achieve hyperbolic and elasticity, called the sensory texture profile. Crispiness is a
levels of crisp. Popeyes has us lined up for crispy chicken “stimulant to active eating,” wrote Szczesniak with a colleague,
sandwiches. The opulence-forward restaurant Benu in San and “it appears to hold a particular place in the basic psychol-
Francisco has served “pork with inverted crispy skin” on its ogy of appetite and hunger satiation, spurring one to continue
$325 per person tasting menu. eating.” Well, yeah.
In the datasphere, the use of crispy/crispiness in U.S. To assess crispiness, which Szczesniak categorized as “brit-
reviews on Yelp has increased 20 percent in the past decade. tleness,” you had to measure the force a bite needs to break
In close to 7,000 menus analyzed by Stanford’s Dan Juraf- a food. Her team used human panels to test texture, but she
sky, crispy is by far the most frequent adjective used to also invented a few machines, including the Texturometer, a
describe texture. The Cheesecake Factory uses the words mechanical mouth (with blades, not teeth, I know) that spits
crisp or crispy nearly 50 times on ONE menu. Researchers out readings on crispiness and other traits. Today Frito-Lay
have revealed that people find crispy foods “appealing” and and its competitors have their own versions of the Texturome-
“enjoyable,” and that people associate crispy and crunchy ter to measure products’ crispiness.
food sounds with “FUN” and “pleasantness.” Get this, brai- What did General Foods do with this data? The company
niacs: Neurons in our orbitofrontal cortex DING DING DING came out with aisles of crispy cereals, frozen foods, and pack-
like game-show bells whenever we eat crispy foods. Crispy is aged snacks as Americans were starting to spend more and
everywhere. Crispy is beloved. Crispy is… more time in front of the TV. How convenient.
Totally calculated.
Our predictable, blatant obsession with crispy has sparked
an entire food and marketing industry that caters to it. You Wait, What About Crunch?
can measure crispy, engineer it, and promote it. Scientists can
make crispy crispier. But why do we love it? How do we see it, People tend to use crispy and crunchy interchangeably, but
hear it, and taste it? What even is it? Who the heck is crunch? there’s a difference, and it’s been studied. This isn’t a matter
Let’s get to the bottom of this bag of potato chips. of opinion, okay?! Scientists recorded people eating a variety

82
APPLES ARE WHAT
SCIENTISTS CALL
“ W E T C R I S P. ” R E A L LY !
of crispy and crunchy foods—crackers, chips, apples—and
found that crispy foods make easier breaks and higher-pitched
sounds and are usually attacked with the front teeth, while
crunchy are molars, lower-pitched. Other studies looked at the
mess a food makes when it’s bitten, and crispy foods had more
breaks and pieces compared with crunchies. Many have
pointed out that the words are onomatopoeic: crispy ends with
an uplifting quick isp like a chip snapping in your teeth,
crunch comes out of the mouth like a bulldozer hitting dirt.
A Pringle is crispy; a thick Snyder’s pretzel is crunchy.
Let’s Talk About PCs
Back at Frito-Lay HQ, I stood in front of a chip lineup that
spanned from airy Wiffle ball–like Poppables to classic Lay’s
(which they refer to as “PCs”) to kettle-cooked Lay’s and these
new chickpea flour Frisbees called Off the Eaten Path. Dr.
Chris Cioffe, senior vice president of sustainability and global
snacks R&D at PepsiCo (phewph!), beamed with pride at her
chip babies. I beamed with gluttonous joy. I gushed like a red-
carpet reporter about what a fan I was of jalape–o kettle chips.
“Women really seem to like the kettle-cooked,” Dr. Chris
said, “and usually the fold-overs are the secret”—fold-overs, as
in, the chips that fold in the fryer like shells. Frito-Lay got the
female fact from post-market reports and from consumer
panels, but a 2015 study at the University
of Arkansas came to similar findings:
Female consumers were more likely to
notice food texture, especially crisp and
crunch, than their male counterparts,
whose attention first goes to food color
and flavor. Don’t ask why! No one knows!!
Maybe we’re trying to drown out the noise
of men talking so much!!!
Kettle chips are in the “hard bite” cate-
gory, which “is growing like crazy” right
now, Dr. Chris said. They’ve introduced
Ruffles Double Crunch, a kettle-cooked
Ruffle, plus revamped Cool Ranch and
Flamin’ Hot Limon Doritos.
But where do chip babies come from?
A R E W E H AV I N G
Frito-Lay creates crisp in four major FUNYUN YET?
ways, executive chef Jody Denton told
me: ingredients (finding the right combi-
nation), moisture control (dehydrating snacks), shaping
method (each chip has its own custom equipment), and the
speed and method of cooking (frying, baking, etc.).
Kettle chips are all about that fry time. A regular potato chip
is fried fast at a high temp. A kettle chip cooks longer at a lower
temperature, getting browner and crispier. Cheetos get
extruded, which means they get squirted out of a machine
like cheese turds or Play-Doh noodles. By squirting the dough
out with added air, they end up as Puffs. Cheetos Crunchy are
extruded, but their time in the fryer is the key to their harder
bite. I got a glimpse of the machines, which look like missile
launchers. That, folks, is why you can’t replicate Cheetos at
home, unless you’re Claire Saffitz.
Frito-Lay sustains crisp with packaging. The bags are puffed
with nitrogen-infused air that keeps the chips fresh. Packaging
84
is also how they promote crisp. The pop and whoosh of released
air. Classic Lay’s bags had a makeover recently and on the back
there’s a list of words with “CRISPY!” up top—where they
know consumers’ eyes go first because, of course, they do eye-
tracking experiments. You thought we lived in a world without
chip surveillance?!?! And don’t forget the sound of the crum-
pling bag, or the pop-off of the Pringles lid. Those signify
crispiness as much as the chip itself.
Then there’s the photo of the single oval chip—no crumbs
in sight—on the front of the bag. Katie Ceclan, a marketing
exec at Frito-Lay, told me this is because consumers associate
crumbs with broken boys at the bottom of the bag. Plus, “we
spent a lot of time with shadows,” Ceclan said. On the previ-
ous bags a straightforward shot was too flat and cartoonish.
Crispy is dynamic and tactile, multidimensional mouth magic!
Crispy lives in the shadows.
Call Me Crispy Poppy
Well, sometimes crispy lives in the crumbs. At Popeyes, they
call them crispy poppies. “That’s when you get that kind of
gnarled or almost cornflake texture on the chicken,” said Amy
Alarcon, vice president of culinary innovation at Popeyes. Her
team’s latest creation, the wildly popular crispy chicken sand-
wich, captivated the crispy nation for weeks. The ad campaign
was just one close-up photo and a viral
tweet that threw shade at Chick-fil-A’s
sandwich: “Y’all good?”
We tried the sandwich in the office.
Senior food editor Andy Baraghani was
impressed with the supremely crispy skin
despite it having traveled at least 30 min-
utes. (A box of fries, on the other hand,
was pure sog.) All of our talk was about
the crispy shell—what’s inside, in this
case, isn’t what counts. The coating here is
not the same as what you’ll find on the
classic Popeyes chicken. It’s a combina-
tion of hard and soft wheat flours, similar
to the difference between all-purpose and
fluffy cake flour. Popeyes works directly
with flour mills to source flour that has
the exact percentage of protein needed to
“deliver that perfect shatter bite that peo-
ple expect from us,” Alarcon said. Each season the wheat crop
changes slightly, in the way corn does, so the culinary team has
to regularly measure the protein in the flour and adjust the
blend until the ratio is calibrated for peak Popeyes crispy.
If you look at the ad for the sandwich, it’s nearly 3-D. I spoke
to Tom Hamling, head of creative for the agency GSD&M, who
oversaw the campaign. Every detail was scrutinized to make it
appear as crispy as possible. Photographers and food stylists
are sent a styling brief, which no one dared show me, that sets
the ground rules. IT SHOULD NOT LOOK GREASY, but there
should be a twinkle of shine, it might say. A food stylist who
definitely signed an NDA gets the official recipe, and the
beauty pageant begins.
There’s a crowd on set that includes some of the Popeyes
culinary team to give the stylist notes as the camera starts
rolling. If the sandwich loses its recently fried glow, a stylist
might dab it with oil in the places the light hits, which is exactly
how I apply highlighter to my cheekbones. If a spot on the
chicken is lacking definition, a stylist who has worked on sim-
ilar shoots told me she might do some “crisp grafting,” piling
fallen crispy poppies back on the chicken to oomph it up.
“Even Kate Moss wears makeup sometimes,” the stylist said.

Crispy in Concert
“This is Pringle chews, starting slow.” Marshall Grupp was
splayed on a rug in the offices of the Sound Lounge, a sound
mixing studio in New York. He has wavy long hair and was
wearing an incredible fleece pullover in a southwestern print,
which is a look I’d say screams: I’m the sound guy. They’d
assembled a tray of crispy foods to take into a recording studio
with me—a Honeycrisp apple, Frosted Flakes, Ruffles, a Rice
Krispies Treat—and Grupp was snacking on them analytically:
“There’s sugar on the Frosted Flakes, so it might add to the
texture of the sound.”
Years ago he made a hundred-something sound effects library
for Pringles, a collection of sounds for ads and wherever else a
Pringles crunch might be heard (your dreams?). When the first
recording played on the Sound Lounge’s giant speakers, we
heard a big satisfying crrr-unch and then four crunchy decre-
scendoing bites. It was like hearing Pringles at Carnegie Hall.
I was rapt. “Wow. That was a pretty good sound,” Grupp said,
amused. There were no mouth noises, no hint of moisture or
breathing. It was “clean.”
“This is a single. Pringle. Crack.” A quick, papery snap.
“That’s just hands,” Grupp said, snapping a chip in half with
his hands to show me.
Behind every chip commercial, there’s a chip biter with a microphone.
“Chip nibbles.” A rapid-fire tat-tat-tat. Grupp exclaimed: Executive producer Becca Falborn expertly chomps on a stack of Pringles
“I even did nibbles!!!” at the Sound Lounge mixing studio in New York.
The Sound Lounge records Foleys—sounds that match up
with an image—for movies, TV, and commercials. For food
clients, a producer goes into the recording studio and eats
the food itself. Then the Sound Lounge will edit the sound: Pringles while listening to the feedback sound of their biting.
layering sound over sound like thwacking Bruce Lee punches, The researchers found that the louder the sound, the crispier
balancing the bass and treble, or adding the chips seemed. In a bacon study (!), the
reverb for slow-motion chip action. “It sound of crispy bacon was as important
becomes a little more artistic, a little to people’s enjoyment of it as smell and
more dramatic,” Grupp said. “[We’re] taste. Frito-Lay has measured products’
taking a real sound and making it more crunch in decibels, mostly to “maintain
than what it really is.” brand identity,” confirming that Cheetos
When a commercial for Ore-Ida tater are consistently crunchy, year after year.
tots needed to sound crispier, producers They once audibly confirmed that Dori-
fried the tots a second time, which did tos make the loudest crack.
the trick. In the ad, a sports commentator I put on headphones and headed into
narrates as a little girl sits at the dinner the Sound Lounge recording booth with
table with her mom: “Will Lily trade a the tray of snacks. We cranked up the vol-
bite of chicken for the crispy Ore-Ida ume and I bit into a Ruffle; I could hear
tater tot???” Lily bites into the tot and the A C O V E T E D P O P E Y E S C R I S P Y the crunch loud and surreally clear. It
CHICKEN SANDWICH
Sound Lounge’s beautiful crunch crack- sounded plasticky. A Nature Valley gra-
les in its split second of stardom. nola bar that I snapped in my hands was
When we bite into crispy food, the crunch in our teeth sandy and anticlimactic. Corn Flakes crushed in my palms
vibrates up our jaw to our ears. We hear it and feel it. It’s a sounded like a giant walking on Legos. We looked at the
huge part of why we find crispy foods exciting. In an Oxford sound waves of my crunches and you could see the sound
University study published in 2015, people bit into 180 spike up and down. “It has a personality!” Grupp said.

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 WE TOLD YOU
CRISPY LIVES IN
THE SHADOWS.
 Meanwhile, in New Jersey
When Gail Vance Civille picked me up from the train station
in Summit, New Jersey, I noticed we were both wearing blue
corduroy pants. “I wore my most textured outfit for you,”
I said. “My friends say my house is full of textures,” she
replied before defying every turn her Google Maps narrated
and yet somehow ending up at Sensory Spectrum, her con-
sulting company. There they evaluate everything from body
lotion to kitty litter to granola bars in development. They
might get 15 chip prototypes to test, after which the maker
might narrow down to three to test with consumers. Then
Sensory Spectrum might see the product again to determine
shelf life (you thought expiration dates were plucked from
thin air?). Civille, 76, has eaten a lot of stale chips.
Civille worked with Szczesniak at Gen-
eral Foods back in the day. Since then
she’s cowritten a book that explains how
to run a sensory panel (similar to what
Szczesniak started) that most food com-
panies use. A food-loving crowd of 10–15
trained experts sit around a table and
VERY thoroughly analyze, say, a new fro-
zen chicken finger, according to a VERY
specific set of categories. One of which
is, duh, crispiness. It’s a 0–15 point scale.
A marshmallow is 0. A Life Saver is 15.
Iconic products like Quaker Chewy gra-
nola bars (2) and Goldfish (11) are tent-
poles in the scale, so if you’re trying
IS IT A P O PPABLE OR AN A S YE T
something new, you can think, Is this UNDISCOVERED PL ANET?
crispier than a Goldfish? Then it proba-
bly ranks at 11 or higher. If you look at the
evaluations of snack foods on the whole, Civille said, “As the
crispiness goes up, the liking score goes up.”
She and panel leader Liz Filoramo set up a sample panel
for me. I got an evaluation worksheet, a water cup, a plate of
Cheetos—Crunchy and Puffs—and a spit cup. As if I’d ever
spit out a Cheeto! Chester, I would NEVER. The Puff was up
first, and Civille instructed me to bite it between my molars,
slowly. Crispy, Civille reminded me, makes many small rup-
tures when bitten, while crunchy makes fewer breaks and
is denser. The Puff shattered easily between my teeth with a
shhhick and dissolved into exfoliating cheese goo. We gave
it a 7.5. The Crunchy was a much denser bite and over with
much faster. That was a 12.
Crispy in Theory
Meet the new Ruffles Double Crunch. They’re caramel-
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU
colored because they’re “kettle-processed,” which you’ll
remember means they were left in the fry oil a bit longer for
extra crisp. The ridges are almost dangerously sharp. “Ouch!”
said one of my colleagues when we tried them around the
office snack table. “I can’t hear what anyone’s saying when
I’m chewing this,” said another (please note, female) loudly.
“They’ve gone too far!” cried a third. I thought they’d be
great with a tub of sour cream and onion dip, tucking the
second bag under my desk for myself.
The package has “2X the crunch!” stamped in a chalk font
and reminds me of ads for CrossFit gyms and protein pow-
ders. Sensory Spectrum’s Civille has a theory that people of a
certain personality type like crispy because it’s an attack.
“It’s much more aggressive than chewing on a caramel,” she
told me, baring her teeth.
That doesn’t fully explain it, though. Szczesniak and other
scientists published in The Journal of Texture Studies, which
you better believe I read, posited that humans like crispy
because it signaled freshness and safe-to-eatness in our cave-
man days (lettuce, apples, tasty crickets). Then fire meant we
could create crispy—we adapted to love crispy things even
more when fried in fat.
The Omnivorous Mind author John S. Allen wrote that
crispy rescues us from “sensory habituation,” getting bored
by the third slippery sip of tomato soup.
The most comprehensive, logical theory
to me was a similar argument from
Oxford professor Charles Spence, who
did the Pringles sound studies. He writes
that crispy is king because it offers a
“multisensory experience”—sight, taste,
feel, and especially sound, piled together
like a tin roof sensory sundae.
I didn’t talk much in this story about
cooking crispy at restaurants, where it
can be just as scientific as at Popeyes, but
for a much smaller audience and with
much scarcer ingredients. At Atomix in
New York, chef Junghyun Park adds
nitrogen dioxide gas to the batter for
a super-crispy langoustine twigim (like a
fritter). In outer space—I mean Vesper-
tine in L.A.—chef Jordan Kahn makes an herbal distillate of
Turkish bay leaves as the base for a thin and crispy bay leaf
cage that holds a caramelized leek heart hostage inside. At
New York’s Momofuku Ko, you start your meal with a one-bite
pommes soufflé—a dollhouse-size potato pillow that’s been
fried at two different temperatures in order to explode into
its puffy shape and dehydrated so that it remains insanely
crispy, two techniques the Frito-Lay execs would surely nod
in agreement with.
And I didn’t talk about cooking crispy at home! The joys of
chicken thighs fried in their own fat, crispy pakoras, icy-crisp
fennel salad, none of which require a bulk order from
modernistpantry.com. I figured you were pretty familiar
with those cooking techniques since we seem to wax poetic
about them in every issue.
Instead I keep thinking about how unreal crispy has
become when it’s formulated in food labs for mass consump-
tion, preserved in puffy packaging. How the photography we
see is saturated, shadowed, and oil-slicked by professional
perfectionists. How the crunch sound in commercials is
amplified and deepened, like a fart in a porcelain bathtub.
There are so many places in our lives where, when trying to
re-create reality, we simply take it too far—see Instagram,
Vanderpump Rules, and Botox as reference. Where will we go
when crispy’s gone too far? After the roofs of our mouths are
cut up from too many extreme Ruffles? And that’s when a
smooth, jiggly cup of pudding starts sounding really nice.
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