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Preface
Acknowledgments
Credits
About the Authors
Introduction: The Five-Step Program
Our love and appreciation to Allan and to Leah for their constant
support and encourage- ment. Our very special thanks to our
professional mentors who have guided us throughout our careers:
Steven Piorkowski and Howard Damon. To the following for their
support and suggestions: Diane Antonucci, Richard Andres, Mary
Moran, Mike Thier, Mark Misthal, Dave Martin, Edward Stern,
Christine Scarf, John Smales, and Michael Hartnett—thank you.
The authors wish to acknowledge the participation, insights, and
feedback provided us by the following colleagues and students:
“On the Subway” from THE GOLD CELL by Sharon Olds, copyright ©
1987 by Sharon Olds. Used by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a
division of Random House, Inc.
Ms. Murphy and Ms. Rankin are also the coauthors of McGraw Hill’s 5
Steps to a 5: AP English Language, Writing the AP English Essay, and
Writing an Outstanding College Application Essay.
INTRODUCTION: THE FIVE-
STEP PROGRAM
Some Basics
Consider this section as a map of the new territory you are going to
explore. We will provide the general directions, and you can decide
when, where, and how you will follow this map.
Reading
We believe that reading should be an exciting interaction between
you and the writer. You have to bring your own context to the
experience, and you must feel comfortable reaching for and
exploring ideas. You are an adventurer on a journey of exploration,
and we will act as your guides. We will set the itinerary, but you will
set your own pace. You can feel free to “stop and smell the roses” or
to explore new territory.
The Journey
On any journey, each traveler sees something different on new
horizons. So, too, each stu- dent is free to personalize his or her own
literary experience, provided he or she tries at all times to strive for
excellence and accuracy.
Critical Thinking
There are no tricks to critical thinking. Those who claim to guarantee
you a score of 5 with gimmicks are doing you a disservice. No one
can guarantee a 5; however, the reading and writing skills you will
review, practice, and master will give you the very best chance to do
your very best. You will have the opportunity to learn, to practice,
and to master the critical thinking processes that can empower you
to achieve your highest score.
The Beginning
It is our belief that if you focus on the beginning, the rest will fall
into place. Once you purchase this book and decide to work your
way through it, you are beginning your jour- ney to the AP Literature
exam. We will be with you every step of the way.
This icon points out a very important concept or fact that you should
not pass over.
IN THIS CHAPTER
Summary: Information about the AP English Literature and
Composition exam and its scoring
Key Ideas
Learn answers to frequently asked questions
Learn how your final score is calculated
Learn tips for successfully taking the exam
The College Board has introduced changes
that will be reflected in the AP English
Literature exam.
You should be aware of the following:
The rating of the exam will remain 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Multiple choice will comprise 45% of the final score, with the
essay section of the exam comprising 55%.
• There are no changes to MC questions.
• There are no changes to the types of prompts (FRQ):
poetry + prose + free response
• There is renewed emphasis on skills development in
consideration of prose + poetry + longer works
• The MAJOR CHANGE is in the method of rating essays
• From holistic to analytic
• From 9 points to 6 points
• 6 points
✓ 1 point for thesis/claim
✓ 4 points for appropriate evidence and commentary
✓ 1 point for syntax, diction, and/or complexity
IN THIS CHAPTER
Summary: Assess your own study patterns and preparation plans.
Key Ideas
Explore three approaches
Choose a calendar that works for you
1. You’re the kind of person who likes to plan for a vacation or the
prom a year in advance.
1. You begin to plan for your vacation or the prom 4–5 months
before the event.
2. You are willing to plan ahead so that you will feel comfortable in
stressful situations, but you are okay with skipping some details.
3. You feel more comfortable when you know what to expect, but
a surprise or two does not floor you.
1. You accept or find a date for the prom a week before the big
day.
3. You feel very confident with the skills and background you’ve
gained in your AP Literature class.
4. You decided late in the year to take the exam.
DECEMBER
FEBRUARY
APRIL
Make certain you become familiar with and make good use of AP
Central’s APCLASSROOM site at
https://myap.collegeboard.org/login?.
APRIL
The die is made of cork and the spots painted white. A small round
bottle is procured, the die is placed in it and the bottle is filled with
water. Be sure to have enough water to prevent any air bubbles
when it is corked tightly. The cork is then sealed in the bottle. If there
is an air bubble, the cork die will not work well.
If the bottle is held bottom up, the cork die will spin around and
float up against the bottom of the bottle where the number of spots
can be seen. It is impossible to manipulate the die to turn up any
desired spots, this being left entirely to chance. A number of bottles
can be prepared so that any of the dice games can be played.—
Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Michigan.
Small Hook for Hanging a Picture
Cordknots
hammocks may be made in two or more different ways, the
being formed by the simple overhand tie, Fig. 1; the flat reef
knot, Fig. 2; the Solomon’s knot, Fig. 3, or by the triple throw-over,
Fig. 4; or they can be knotted by the process known as netting, Fig.
5, in which a special needle, or shuttle, is used.
When Making a Hammock With the Simple Overhand, Flat Reef, or
Solomon’s Knot, Loop All the Pairs of Cords at the Center about a Rod
In using any one of the first three methods of making the knots it is
necessary to have cords arranged in pairs and long enough to reach
from one end of the hammock to the other, allowing only sufficient
length for the take-up in tying the knots and the spread of the
meshes. The overhand knot is large, and the Solomon’s knot is a
little unwieldy, but is considered more beautiful when tied. The flat
reef knot is small, is easily tied and will not slip. The netting process
has a good knot and has the advantage of a short single cord, as the
meshes are made independently and the cord is carried on the
netting needle.
It is a great advantage, when making a hammock with the simple
overhand, the flat reef, or the Solomon’s knot, to loop all the pairs of
cords at the center about a rod, Fig. 6—which may be any stick such
as an old broom handle—knotting from the center toward each end,
one side being tied, and then the other. When the first pairs are
being tied, the opposite ends should be looped up together out of the
way. Even half the length of a hammock makes a long cord to be
drawn through each time a knot is tied, and each string can be
wound about the fingers into a little bundle and secured with a half
hitch, using the same cord, and left hanging, as shown in Fig. 7,
allowing sufficient cord free to throw large loops in the tying, and to
make about 10 additional meshes. About 3 ft. would be a good
length to be left free.
It will be necessary to have 24 pairs of cords—48 cords in all—
each 18 ft. long to make a hammock by the first two methods of tying
the knots. Seine twine of medium-hard twist and 24-ply can be
obtained from a store carrying sporting goods, and is about the best
material to use for this purpose. When these pairs of cords are
looped on the center rod, and the rod has been anchored to a wall,
as shown in Fig. 8, begin by placing the mesh stick, or rather the
mesh post, Fig. 9, between the first pair of cords, A and B, at the left
end of the center rod, as in Fig. 8 and Fig. 6. The simple device
illustrated in Fig. 9 is very useful for tying any one of the three first-
described knots. The device needs no explanation other than the
illustration. It will be seen that there are two sizes on the top of the
post; the smaller is for the first time across only. The mesh post
should be of convenient height for a person when sitting on an
ordinary chair. One foot rests on the base as the tying proceeds, but
there is no pulling over, as the tie draws both ways on the post, this
also doing away with the pull on the center rod.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
Fig. 4 Fig. 3
Fig. 5
The cord to the right, B, is taken in the right hand and thrown over
the left cord A, Fig. 8, and is held by the left hand. The left cord A is
then tucked down behind the right, as shown in Fig. 10. If the right
cord goes over in making the first loop, the same cord B must also
go over in the second throw, as in Fig. 11, in order to have a proper
square knot that will not slip. The end of A is then tucked under B, as
shown by the dotted lines. This makes a very serviceable knot for
the hammock, but can be also used for other purposes. The knot is
shown in Fig. 2. Draw it up tightly, very hard, for knotting is not worth
much if it is not tied well.
In case the simple overhand knot is preferred, the mesh post is
placed between the first pair as before, and cords A and B are
brought to the front as in Fig. 12, but are carried parallel into a large
loop that is thrown over as illustrated, then tucked up through as
indicated by the dotted lines. The thumb and first finger of the left
hand now slide up to the point P, while the right hand pulls up the
loop as it nears the finish, the thumb and first finger crowding the
loop down hard against the mesh post. The small part is used for the
first row across. The knot formed is shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 6 Fig. 10 Fig. 7
Fig. 9
Fig. 8 Fig. 11
The Mesh Post Has Two Sizes on Its Upper End, the Smaller for Knotting the
First Row of Meshes, and the Other for the Remaining Rows. This Illustration
Also Shows the Manner of Tying the Knots
After tying the first pair of cords using the knot preferred, slip the
first mesh so made off the tying post and place the post between C
and D, which is the next, or second, pair. Tie the second pair and
pass on to the third pair, which is E and F. Continue moving and
tying until all the 24 pairs of cords have been similarly knotted in their
first mesh. The last knotting will be the twenty-fourth pair, which is
represented by the cords marked Y and Z. Instead of tying cords of
the same pairs on the return trip across, one cord Y of the twenty-
fourth pair is tied with one cord X of the twenty-third pair, and the
other cord W of the twenty-third pair is tied with the cord V of the
twenty second pair, and so on across the series.
On the second row of tying, the post is first placed between cords
Y and X and they are knotted together, but instead of tying about the
small part of the post the larger size is used. After cords Y and X
have been tied, cords W and V are combined. It will be seen that this
is tying the pairs together instead of combining the two cords of the
same pair. The third time across the combinations are the same as
in the first row. The large mesh is used on all but the first row. The
alternations of rows is continued until the cords are tied to within 2¹⁄₂
ft. of the end.
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First and Second Rows Across
Pull out the center rod, insert it in the second row of meshes,
loosen the ends that were looped up and begin the knotting of the
opposite ends of the cords. When both sides are completed to within
2¹⁄₂ ft. of the ends, the center rod is removed and inserted in the last
row of meshes. Another simple device will be found efficient, which
consists of a board, 30 in. long, three or more inches wide and 1 in.
thick, with three nails driven in slanting, as shown in Fig. 14, to
prevent the ring and rod from slipping off as the tying proceeds. One
2¹⁄₂-in. galvanized ring will be required for each end. The ring is
attached to the single nail at the end with a string. This will be found
better than just slipping the ring over the nail, as it is necessary to
have a little more play in putting the cords through for the tying. The
distance from the rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie is made in
pairs as before, one cord going under and the other over the side of
the ring, using the flat reef knot. There will be a few inches of ends
remaining after the tie is made and these are brought back to the
main body of the cord and wound with an extra cord used for that
purpose. The winding is started by looping the end of the extra cord,
or string, about the whole bundle of cord together with the ends,
pulling tightly and tying securely with the flat reef knot. This is
illustrated in Fig. 15. The winding should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. long where
the turned-back ends are cut off. Each time the cord is wound about
the bundle it should be looped through its own winding and drawn
tightly. This is practically the buttonhole loop. To finish the winding
the cord should be given a double looping through its own winding;
then with an awl, or other pointed tool, work a way through the under
side of the other windings so that the end may be brought out farther
back and pulled tightly, to prevent unwinding when the pull comes on
the hammock. Attach the ring to the opposite end in the same
manner and the hammock is complete.
Attaching the Rings to the Ends of the Cords and the Binding near the
Rings: All the Pairs of Cords are Looped about a Rod in the Center, and the
Knots are Made toward the Ends
The edge can be bound the same as a tennis net, or a rope can
be run through the outside meshes lengthwise, as desired. A very
pretty effect can be obtained by knotting, in a similar manner to the
body of the hammock, an apron fringe for the sides.
Homemade Section Liner
For the rapid and uniform hatching of cross sections this little
device will be found to give results equaling most of the high-priced
instruments that can be purchased. It consists of a hardwood block
used in connection with a 45° triangle. The corners are cut to permit
the triangle to slide the desired distance; then, by alternately sliding
the triangle and block with the left hand, equal spacings can be
drawn without measurements of any kind.
Block Used in a Triangle to Move It at Equal Distances for Making Section
Lines