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Stitch class-100 single thread chain stitch:

Features:
 It forms a chain stitch with one or more threads is called a chain stitch sewing
m/c.
 One or more needles in a chain stitch sewing m/c.
 Here, needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
 The same thread is used here to interconnect with each loop.
 Here, stitches can be easily unpicked from the last to the first.
 The appearance of chain stitch is different on the face and backside.
 Here stitch length varies from 1.5mm to 4.5mm.
 Some chain stitch sewing m/c has an automatic thread trimmings system.
 Various types of feed mechanism can be used here.
 In this stitch-one loop passing through another loop o same thread.
 It can produce easily and high-speed using one needle.
 Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch.
 Sub class 113.
 Stitch per minute 5000-6000
 Needle size 9,11,14,16,18,20,21
 No of the looper 2 & No. of needle 2
 Seam class 400

Common Applications:
 It one unit is break then whole stitch is open.
 The stitch is much more stretchable and is used for stretch fabrics.
 The machine can stitch both straight stitched seam as well as a zig-zag stitch.
Blind Stitch Machine:
Features:

 Special types of sewing machine and expensive also.


 Stitch is not sewn on top.
 Curve needle are used.
 Stitch length 3-8 mm
 SPM: - 1200-2500
 Sub class: - 103
 Needle Type: - LWx6T
 Needle Size: - 9-22

Common Applications:

 Used in Pant, Cuff.


 Hemming dress.
 Skirt Hemming.
 Blazer hemming.


Stitch Class 300- Lock Stitch:
Features:
 Common sewing machine use in woven garment industry.
 Industry known as PLAIN MACHINE.
 More secure sewing machine.
 Different types of feed mechanism are used in this sewing machine.
 Computerized Bobbin thread finish signal.
 Clutch motor, servo motor kind of all motors are used except induction motor.
 RPM: - 3500-5500.
 Double needle machine RPM: - 4000.
Needle Name Needle Type Needle Name Needle Gap
Double needle Lock Stitch Machine 11-22 DBx5 3.2-3.8 (mm)
DPx5, DBx1,
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine 9-18 -----
DAx1

Common Applications:
 In Polo shirt only side seam is sewn with lock stitch machine.
 This machine used for various parts making of a garment. Such as: - Collar,
Collar Band, Placket, Shoulder Top, Yock, Sleeve.

Zigzag Stitch:
Features:
 Seam Width: - 5-10
 Seam Length: - 2-2.5
 SPM: - 4000-5500
 Can be converted into one step to two step with the help of gauge set.
 Needle: - DPx5, DFx17,
 Needle Size: - 10
Common Applications:
 Used for side seam.
 Used for Decorative Seam.
 Used in Pocket, Panel Stitch.
Stitch Class 400- Multi Needle/Thread Chain Stitch:
Features:
 This Machine is known as Multi thread chain stitch machine.
 Widely used in woven & cut and sew knit wear industry.
 Bed Type: - Flat, Cylindrical, Raised.
 Stitch Form: - Interlooping.
 Top center operation done with this machine. Such as: - Placket of a shirt.
 Needle can be used 2, 3, 4.
 SPM for single needle: - 4500-5000.
 SPM for double needle: - 4000-6000.
 SPM for Feed of the Arm: - 3600-4000.
 Stitch Main Class 400. Sub class- 401.
 Number of needle & lopper are same in 401 class.
 Needle Type: - TBx1, TBx7.
 Needle size: - 9-21
 Needle to Needle gap: - 6.4 mm (Standard).

Applications:
 Used for Decorative stitch.
 Joining special parts of garments.
 Waist band finished.
Stitch Class 500- Over Edge/Over Lock Chain Stitches:
Features:
 Generically name of this machine is overedge chain stitch machine but
commonly called it overlock machine.
 It is widely used in knit/cut and sew and woven industry.
 Bed shape: Side Bed
 It has small working area.
 Stitch forming procedure is interlooping.
 Stitch Is form at edge of the seam.
 SPM: 6500-8500
3 threads over lock 4 threads over lock 5 threads over lock
Stitch Length 0.5-3.8 mm 0.5-3.8 mm 0.5-5.3 mm
Stitch Width 1.5-4mm 2-4 mm 4-6 mm

 Needle Type: DCx1, DCx27


 Needle Size: 9-22
 Main class: 500
 Sub Class: 503, 504, 512, 514, 515 etc.
 Machine can be converted with gauge set.

Common Applications:
3 threads over lock 4 threads over lock 5 threads over lock
Pocket fly peace’s. Side seam operation. Back rise operation.
Pocket facing and pocket
In seam operation. Side seam operation.
bearer.
Bottom hemming
Collar sew operation. In seam operation.
operation.
Front rise and back rise
Shoulder Joining. Sleeve attaches operation.
operation.
Finish stitches on the
Moon sew operation. Sleeve joining.
edges of the fabric
Stitch Class 600- Top and Bottom Covering Chain Stitches:
Features:
 This machine is widely used in the cut and sew industry rather than woven
industry.
 Industrially it is known as Flat Lock machine.
 Common machine bed shape is RAISED BED & CYLINDERICAL BED.
 That’s why it has small working area.
 Stitch forming procedure is interlooping.
 Stitch formed by needle, looper & spreader.
Spreader/Upper looper/Top
Stitch Class Needle Looper
Covering Thread
602 2 1 1
605 3 1 1
607 4 1 1

 SPM: 4000-6500
 Needle size: 9-14
 Needle Type: UYx128 GAS
 Needle to needle gap: 604, 605, 607: 5.6-6.4mm
 Maximum stitch length: 1.2-5 mm

Common Applications:
 Zigzag stitch operation.
 Waist band top stitch operation.
 Side seam top stitch operation.
 Arm hole top stitch operation.
 Bottom hole top stitch operation.
 Joining two or more pieces parts of garments for flat sewing purpose.
 Sometime decorative purpose also.

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