Professional Documents
Culture Documents
MULTIL ATER AL
DEVELOPMENT
BANK S
Governanc e and Financ e
Multilateral Development Banks
Ihsan Ugur Delikanli • Todor Dimitrov
Roena Agolli
Multilateral
Development Banks
Governance and Finance
Ihsan Ugur Delikanli Todor Dimitrov
Istanbul, Turkey Thessaloniki, Greece
Roena Agolli
Thessaloniki, Greece
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer International Publishing AG part
of Springer Nature.
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For our families and children as well as all children of the world.
Foreword
During several decades the benefits of multilateralism were taken for granted.
This is no longer the case. In this context, Multilateral Development Banks:
Governance and Finance is a very timely and valuable book that offers a rich
description of Multilateral Development Banks (MDBs), an assessment of
their roles, and a constructive critique with recommendations to enhance
their contribution to the development agenda.
A useful taxonomy of 25 MDBs is proposed and applied for the analysis of
these banks as a whole and by type of MDBs. Having worked for the three
different types of MDBs considered in the book, I can attest that this classifi-
cation makes sense.
This volume is an important contribution to the qualitative and quantita-
tive knowledge about MDBs practices and standards. It addresses misconcep-
tions concerning MDBs, provides a comprehensive review of governance and
funding issues that constrain MDBs’ effectiveness, and suggests means to
overcome those constraints.
It is to be noted that Chap. 3 provides an adequate presentation of the
important issue of additionality, whereas Chap. 5 presents a novel system of
MDB-specific governance principles, which is used in an assessment and in
identifying areas for improvement. It includes the standards developed for
independent evaluation by the MDBs’ Evaluation Cooperation Group
(ECG), considering also other areas relevant for MDBs.
The book concludes with a discussion on the future of MDBs, providing
ideas and suggestions for addressing complex problems, highlighting the
importance of improving governance and strengthening independent
vii
viii Foreword
ix
x Preface
r esponsibility for all errors and omissions and acknowledge the importance of
contributions by many other people.
The three authors worked jointly on the book upon the idea of Ihsan Ugur
Delikanli. Their primary contribution is as follows:
1 Introduction 1
3 Financial Dynamics 33
4 Current Governance 89
6 Clients’ Perspective 163
7 The Future 177
Glossary 193
Index 203
xiii
List of Figures
xv
xvi List of Figures
Fig. 3.12 Total loans, debt securities and equity investments (USD, billion).
Source: Authors’ compilation from MDBs’ annual reports 49
Fig. 3.13 Leverage ratio (%). Source: Authors’ compilation from MDBs’
annual reports 53
Fig. 3.14 Gross income from lending (%). Source: Authors’ compilation
from MDBs’ annual reports 59
Fig. 3.15 Return on equity (RoE, %). Source: Authors’ compilation from
MDBs’ annual reports 61
Fig. 3.16 Administrative costs ratio (Administrative Costs/Gross Income
from Lending and Treasury, %). Source: Authors’ compilation
from MDBs’ annual reports 62
Fig. 4.1 Governance structure 91
Fig. 6.1 Eligibility and concept review 169
Fig. 6.2 Appraisal and due diligence 170
List of Tables
xvii
1
Introduction
Rationale
Address Misconceptions, Clarify the Essence of MDBs
Despite existing publications and public discourse, the role, governance, and
potential of Multilateral Development Banks (MDBs) remain obscured by
fragmented and often inaccurate information. These institutions remain
poorly understood, implying the need for an open, comprehensive, and bal-
anced overview, going beyond history and data.
This book sheds light on a number of misconceptions regarding MDBs,
widely spread not only among the public, but even among MDBs’ stakehold-
ers such as counterparts, shareholders, managers, and staff. These misconcep-
tions include but are not limited to the following: (1) MDBs are UN agencies;
(2) MDBs are aid/grant/subsidy funds; (3) all MDBs are subsidiaries of the
World Bank; (4) MDBs are just international commercial/investment banks;
and (5) MDBs provide a key share of financing in some countries but there
are no tangible results.
Chapters 3, 4, and 5 (Financial Dynamics, Current Governance, and
Governance Principles) constitute the core of the book, providing insight for
the bumpy road ahead, outlined at the concluding Chap. 7 (The Future).
These chapters provide a comprehensive review of multiple governance and
funding issues that constrain MDBs’ effectiveness, presenting seven novel
governance principles (Chap. 5), followed by an assessment of reality against
those principles.
The book provides an overview of what the MDBs are often mistakenly
assumed to be, in order to reveal and clarify their distinct nature and modus
operandi, recent evolutions, toward future perspectives, covering all essential
aspects, including the most recent challenges to institutional governance and
finance. This is a timely and forward-looking response to the aggressive pres-
sures on multilateralism and development, fuelled by contemporary tides of
populism, nationalism, and protectionism, already affecting many MDBs and
other international institutions.
Methodology
The book has a specific focus on recent waves of criticism and discontent
with governance and results, both legitimate and ill-informed, that triggered
ad hoc reforms, as well as a proliferation of “new”, “green, lean, and clean”
MDBs. The recent motion of creating “alternative” new MDBs is subject of
a balanced assessment of pros and cons, with the ultimate objective of sug-
gesting feasible improvements in both the “old” and the “new” generations
of MDBs.
Approach
with key MDB staff and management, focusing on the departments involved
with institutional learning and memory—the Independent Evaluation depart-
ments. The analysis is also supplemented by interviews with key MDB bor-
rowers, to reflect their perspective. Most interviews were conducted in the
course of several years, within an ongoing MDB comparative research, cover-
ing 260 respondents from 19 MDBs.
The methodology, along with the main messages of each chapter, should
remain informative and relevant in the years to come, as the focus is on
how to improve MDBs’ functioning, looking at the cross-cutting groups
and issues. Hence, it is aimed at providing practice-based inspiration for
further debate regarding the MDB evolution, with a particular attention
on the need and obstacles to enhance old-fashion institutional governance,
in the light of recent efforts of last generation MDBs to challenge the more
traditional “old” development institutions (perceived as inefficient and
donor-dominated).
Overall, the methodology constitutes an interdisciplinary mapping pro-
cess, catalyzing insights from extensive reviews and discussions, involving the
following key elements: (1) MDB categorization based on geographical out-
reach; (2) development and application of MDB-specific governance assess-
ment framework (principles); (3) an assessment of the outreach and impact of
MDBs, based on key ex-post evaluation results; (4) a financial assessment
framework for MDBs, addressing inherent subsidies and privileges as unrec-
ognized risk mitigation instrument; and (5) evaluating the accessibility of
MDBs to borrowers through a borrower-based perspective. Details on the
approach regarding these five elements are presented below.
Unlike existing research that treats MDBs as banks, hereby they are
addressed by revealing the institutional aspects of their operations, going well
beyond the bank concept—toward high-profile self-regulated knowledge
banks, change agents, and franchise-based standard setters. These concepts
involve relevant comparisons of the three regional groups of MDBs, with a
focus on a feasible and sustainable governance-centered, rather than ad hoc,
reform agenda. The goal is to improve all or most MDBs through an evidence-
based advancement of values, management, staff, and governance, rather than
already known polar pressures that resulted in various stop-and-go reform
campaigns, triggering alarming staff disengagement and overall reform fatigue
across most MDBs.
4 I. U. Delikanli et al.
MDB Categorization
All MDBs are grouped by their regional coverage. This facilitates the process
of understanding and improving different institutions, based on common
denominators rather than extensive piecemeal approach. It is instrumental to
demonstrate the similarities and differences among groups, as well as key
issues and shortcomings without criticizing a particular individual institution.
The ultimate goal is to offer feasible improvements that acknowledge MDBs
as complex related institutions, providing additional value beyond mere
finance, unlike conventional banks. This mainly refers to the provision of
knowledge and public goods—hence arguing that MDBs are primarily knowl-
edge banks and role models that should be treated very differently from any
other financial institutions.
The categorization generally reflects the MDBs’ size and ambition and is
defined as follows:
1. Global MDBs lend to several continents, covering those almost entirely;
2. Regional MDBs lend to just one continent, covering it almost entirely;
3. Sub-regional MDBs focus on a specific region that is smaller than a
continent.
The very specific governance systems utilized by MDBs deserve central atten-
tion. For this reason, Chap. 4, dedicated to MDBs’ Current Governance,
followed by Chap. 5, which offers principles to elevate governance, are of
specific importance. The latter chapter is based on a methodology involving a
thorough process of reviewing and assessing respective governance systems
against a set of principles, developed by the authors. This is done at group
levels rather than at each MDB, but outlier cases are also addressed as a source
of insight, from both negative (risk) and positive (potential) perspectives.
Given the extensive experience and communication (including dedicated
interviews over the past four years) of the authors in dealing with those gov-
ernance systems within the MDBs, a particular attention is devoted to the less
obvious but very important details and practices of implementing the gover-
nance rules, as they have substantial implications, rarely understood. The
analysis is steered by a review of critical post evaluations at corporate/
institutional levels, in order to derive common issues.
Introduction 5
Financial Assessments
Borrower Perspective
overview of the eligibility and application process, it also reveals issues of frus-
tration and opacity that stem from an insufficient understanding of MDBs’
complexity. Ultimately, the chapter aims at helping potential and actual cli-
ents, with a focus on private sector borrowers, to navigate the unchartered
waters of MDB approval and project cycles.
The concluding Chap. 7 presents the actual and potential role of MDBs as
agents of global change, as institutions with sustainable impact, beyond the
mere objects of financing. This deals with their raison d’être and is built upon
the main messages and conclusions of earlier chapters, suggesting how MDBs
can better play this important role as a system of related institutions. Naturally,
MDBs as knowledge institutions are addressed in relation to the independent
evaluation function and the wealth of lessons registered, but not necessarily
learned. The focus is on how MDBs may further excel in providing first-rank
international leadership in high standards of norms and practices, across sec-
tors and countries, beyond ideologies and politics—a worthwhile challenge.
The chapter looks openly into the future of MDBs, in a global context, with
direct reference to technological advancements and the UN Sustainable
Development Goals, among other factors. It is a forward-looking reflection of
all other chapters, suggesting a feasible and comprehensive reform agenda
beyond the traps of the past. Key highlights include the need to elevate gov-
ernance, improve the use of independent evaluation, enhance engagement
with stakeholders, as well as ensure synergies across MDBs at a time of unprec-
edented technological and social shifts with high impact.
2
The Nature of MDBs
These examples illustrate the overlapping and relative nature of the categoriza-
tion, implying that it is utilized to facilitate the analysis rather than to assume
absolute boundaries across the three groups.
institutions that had to be created over the visions of John Maynard Keynes.
In 1942, White paved the path toward the fundamentals of a development
policy as he prepared a proposal for a “United Nations Stabilization Fund and
a Bank for Reconstruction and Development of the United and Associated
Nations” which would provide the basis for post-war international monetary
reform (Anderson-Gold 2011).
White considered the Keynes’ principles from a more general perspective
and used them in the US proposal to suggest national and international poli-
cies that would (1) foster economic growth by encouraging international eco-
nomic and monetary cooperation through the stabilization and regulation of
the national systems of exchange rates and (2) encourage economic and social
security in war-torn areas of Europe through rebuilding economic and finan-
cial infrastructure throughout massive supply of capital that will be needed for
reconstruction, relief, and economic recovery (Stiglitz 2003).
The proposal called for the creation of two related institutions with
resources, powers, and structure adequate to meet the major post-war needs.
For international currency matters, the International Monetary Fund (IMF)
was to be established, which would recommend and enforce rules to install a
system of convertibility of currencies and ensure a degree of exchange-rate
stability—indispensable for a multilateral system of payments and trade. For
assisting the economic development and reconstruction of post-war Europe,
the International Bank for Reconstruction and Development (IBRD) was to
be established—broadly recognized as the World Bank, with the purpose of
providing funding and technical assistance for the economic reconstruction of
war-ravaged areas of Europe, mainly by encouraging capital inflows into the
region from surplus countries (Lipscy 2015).
In 1944, the United Nations Monetary and Financial Conference took
place at the Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire.
The broadly referred to as Bretton Woods Conference agreed to regulate the
international monetary and financial problems after the conclusion of the
World War II, and sealed the negotiation for the establishment of the World
Bank and the IMF. The agreement is a milestone toward more orderly inter-
national relations and multilateralism on a global scale and toward having
agencies predominantly adapted to maintain such relationships. The United
States, of course, was and still is a dominant element.
With the Congress’ approval of the Marshall Plan in 1948, the US pre-
eminence was confirmed (Bordo and Eichengreen 2007). The organizational
patterns of the IMF and the IBRD gave birth to a new track of thought—
development diplomacy, where the American role was critical.
The Nature of MDBs 13
Established in 1944, the World Bank is the world’s largest provider of devel-
opment finance, which lends worldwide to more than a hundred countries in
several continents. Many of the features that were implemented and recog-
nized in the context of the World Bank became a standard for most of the
other MDBs set up later on.
From the outset, the World Bank was an institution which was to be owned
and whose capital would be provided by governments. The commencing
authorized capital ($10 million) comprised 20% paid-in capital or seed
money and 80% callable or guaranteed capital. The callable capital worked as
guarantee fund against which the World Bank could borrow commensurately
large amounts in the international capital markets. Albeit, this was not as a
matter of fact paid by the member countries, it still determined the credit
rating of the Bank (Culpeper 1997).
The capital structure, which evolved under the aegis of the World Bank,
became a cornerstone of the international financial system. It was considered as
a mechanism to secure the obligations to the bondholders in the capital market
to a guarantee by shareholders to pay off the needed amount to the full value
of bonds outstanding. Thus, the bonds issued by the World Bank depended on
the implicit guarantee of the shareholders, rather than on the loan repayments
of the borrowing countries. Given the innovative side of this mechanism, dur-
ing the 1950s, the World Bank managed to successfully raise money on the
international capital markets, even though it was quite modest in size and lent
to few countries that could afford the market interest rate (Harriss 2002).
With the increase in the scale and complexity, the World Bank established
several affiliated institutions. The first addition was the International Financial
Corporation (IFC) in 1956, which was created to supplement the IBRD’s
governmental orientation, by lending to private corporations, usually together
with other investors. The second addition was the International Development
Association (IDA)—created in 1960 to offer concessional or soft lending to
government and private sector firms in low-income countries.
The establishment of IDA as one of the principal component of the World
Bank Group1 shifted the balance of power between shareholders and manage-
ment in the World Bank. The IBRD was funding its lending operations pri-
marily by selling low-interest, high-rated bonds, backed by prudent financial
policies and strong financial support of their members. The accumulated
14 I. U. Delikanli et al.
funds were then on-lent at slightly higher interest rate with relatively long
maturities (15–20 years) to creditworthy countries. However, concessional
loans of IDA had an interest rate of zero or less than 1% and were made on
terms up to 40 years, usually with a 10-year grace period. As the funds for
concessional lending could not be obtained from private markets, member
countries made direct contributions to fund IDA, causing the balance of
power between shareholders and management to shift to donor members.
Along with the World Bank, the International Fund for Agriculture
Development (IFAD) is a global international financial institution and spe-
cialized agency of the United Nations, providing development finance world-
wide. Although IFAD is an outlier as noted in Chap. 1, it is included in the
categorization of MDBs, as it has recently started to borrow from the interna-
tional financial markets, essentially operating as an MDB. The agency was
established in 1974 at the World Food Conference in Rome, in the wake of a
global food shortage, which caused widespread famine, especially in the
African countries. Three years after the Rome conference, IFAD was set up as
an international financial institution. Since then, it has specialized in financ-
ing agricultural development projects aimed at food production in developing
countries (Mosley and Hulme 2006).
The members of regional MDBs are regional developing countries and donor
countries, which can be both regional and non-regional. These institutions
were modeled around the IBRD concept, to lend to one continent, covering
it almost entirely. Two significant factors triggered the creation of these MDBs.
The first one was the aspirations of developing and/or financially distressed
countries for greater regional autonomy and economic stability, by addressing
regional and national needs. The second one was the US geopolitical and geo-
economic strategic interest during the Cold War. The latter factor was crucial
for overcoming the US defiance toward the establishment of the Inter-
American Development Bank (IDB) and the AsDB. The respective response
of the Soviet Bloc countries, who did not participate in IBRD or the follow-
up regional MDBs, was to create in 1963 their own sub-regional MDB (The
Moscow-based International Bank for Economic Cooperation, still operating
today as the International Investment Bank [IIB]).
In Latin America, the proposal for a regional Inter-American Bank pre-
dated the idea for the World Bank. Latin American countries requested the
The Nature of MDBs 15
Although midnight is spoken of, it was quite light, and I sketched for nearly an
hour and a half, beginning at a quarter-past 12 o’clock. Before Professor
Chadbourne left for the night-quarters which Zöga had secured for him at the
neighbouring farm, we two stood together on the brink of the Great Geyser,
filled our glasses with its hot water—pure, and, as soon as it cooled down
below the scalding point, drank to absent friends on both sides of the Atlantic;
this toast having special reference to our own distant homes. Then four
separate Geyser-bumpers were devoted respectively to Longfellow, William
and Mary Howitt, Dr. Laurence Edmondston of Shetland, and Gísli
Brynjúlfsson the Icelandic poet.
Properly speaking there was no night at all; only a slight dim towards two
o’clock in the morning, which I took as a hint to get quietly under the canvas
of our tent. The wind rose, increasing to a gale; our tent-lining came down and
the sides flapped up, fluttering in the wind with a noise like platoon firing. For
me, sleep was impossible; but as I was very tired and things could not well be
much worse, I patiently lay still till five o’clock in the morning, when we all
rose, and Zöga struck the tent. The wind blowing from the north-coast, on
which many icebergs were at present stranded, was piercingly cold, and
reminded us of the Duke’s allusion, in the forest of Arden, to
“The icy fang
And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind;
Which when it bites and blows upon my body
Even till I shrink with cold, I smite and say,
This is no flattery.”
As breakfast would not be ready for a couple of hours, I took some brandy
and hot water at the Geyser, literally to stop my teeth from chattering, and
descended into the gully behind to examine the banks of coloured clay. These
lie, just under the Geyser, on the north-west side. Steam may be observed
escaping from many little clay holes, and the sound of boiling may be heard
inside at places where there are no holes. This hot clay is deposited in
horizontal layers, red, purple, violet, white, light blue, and pale green. These
colours occur by themselves, and are also occasionally found mixed together,
mottled and variegated like a cake of fancy soap or a sheet of marble paper.
Judging by the taste, the clay seems impregnated with sulphuric acid; and, to
the touch, it is of a very fine consistency, having no grit whatever. I secured
specimens of the finest colours, cutting them like butter with a table knife, and
filled several empty preserved-meat cans to take home for analysis. The
colours are most beautiful, but, apparently caused by oxydized iron, would, I
fear, be useless as pigments. If this fine clay could be put to any use in the
potteries, thousands of tons might be obtained here and also at Krisuvik.
What leads me to suppose that the colouring matter of the alumina chiefly
consists of iron, is the fact that, excepting where the layers were evidently
freshly laid bare to view by water or by some other mechanical means, the
banks, however beautifully variegated beneath, invariably exhibited no colour
but red on the surface; or, in other words, the iron was uniformly oxydized by
exposure to the air.[11]
Further down the gully, we came upon large rough slabs of whitish stone,
beautifully variegated with tints of violet, red, and yellow, dashed with blue.
These were in compact laminae, and each colour about the fourth of an inch
in thickness. In several instances however the colours, as in the clays, were
mixed. I broke up several masses, and secured a number of the most
characteristic and beautiful specimens. We also obtained chalcedony and agate,
at times approaching to opal; these and cornelian being only varieties of silex,
colour making the chief difference.
Before filling some bottles with Geyser water, as the wind was fresh, I set one
of them afloat to be carried across the basin before it. When the half of its
venturous voyage was accomplished and it had reached the tube in the centre,
a little eruption came on, by which the bottle was thrown up, and floated over
the outer edge of the basin. I succeeded in getting hold of it uninjured,
arrested in a little pool amid the boiling water which was flowing down the
sides, and afterwards filled it, marking it specially for Dr. R. Angus Smith;
—“one whose name,” in a different sense however from that in which Keats
used the expression, “is writ in water,” and let me add, in air too; for, in
connection with sanatory matters and the supply or purification of these two
health-giving elements to towns, no man in Europe has analyzed more water;
nor was there any known index of local atmospheric insalubrity but the
mortality bills, till he made his great discovery—the Air-test. On all such
subjects there is no higher scientific authority.
Wandering, once more to bid farewell to the other springs, we could not but
remark that the whole slope is a thin crust, with innumerable caldrons below;
these each preserve their individuality, although the central heat be common to
all, for the various eruptions seem to be quite independent of each other. Blesi
was quite tranquil during the eruption of its neighbour the great Geyser; and
the other springs take as little notice of the Little Geyser’s activity as it does of
Strokr. Wonder ever increases, although the ground has been gone over so
often as to be already quite familiar to us.
Breakfast waits and is soon despatched with keen relish. Packing done, horses
ready, and a guide left to find three that have strayed, we start on our return
journey to Thingvalla and Reykjavik at a quarter to eight A.M. Truly, as
Shakspere hath it,
“Nature oftentimes breaks forth
In strange eruptions!”
The wind was still from the north and bitterly chill. On rounding the shoulder
of the hill, we picked up the Professor, at the farm house. The room he slept
in had been all carefully washed out on purpose to receive him, the earthen
floor as well, so that it was very damp. He was assisted to undress by the
hostess, till he called a halt, and insisted on retaining some portion of his
under-clothing. Then, after he lay down, a basin of milk was brought and
placed at his bed-side. Had he looked under the pillow, he would probably
have discovered a bottle of brandy deposited there for his own especial use;
but, as the worthy Professor would have left it precisely as he found it, no
“sense of loss” dawned upon him when the probability was hinted at.
Rector Jonson subsequently explained to me the rationale of the hostess, or
her daughter, attending to guests. Among the Icelanders, wet feet and
thorough drenchings are incident to locomotion. It is the universally
acknowledged duty of the female department to render the way-worn traveller
such assistance as he may require, taking away his wet stockings and mud-
soaked garments at night, and returning them to him, dry and comfortable, in
the morning. This simple old custom, which is also to be met with in various
parts of Norway and Sweden, will give the key to many funny exaggerations
on the subject, where the art of putting things has been employed chiefly in
the direction of the ludicrous.
We see on the way many lovely wild flowers, which confirm our previous
observation that they are larger in the petals, but smaller in the leaves and
stems than the same kinds at home; the aroma is also less. This is caused by
their receiving more light and less heat, in the short Icelandic summer, than in
more southern climes.
Graceful white sea-swallows are darting about; curlews are very tame, flying
within a few yards of us or sitting unconcerned on stones till we ride past
them, noting their beautifully speckled breasts, long bent bills, and plaintive
tremulous whistle.
SKAPTÁR JÖKUL.
The atmosphere was now much clearer, and many distant snow-covered
mountains were visible on our left. Zöga pointed out one of a peculiar shape,
which he informed us was Skaptár Jökul, the most destructive volcano in the
island. Of this, however, again.
A bird, with a red breast, perched on a block of lava near us; this, the
Professor told me, was the American robin. It seemed as large as our
blackbird.
MOUNT HEKLA.
Retracing our steps, we crossed the Bruará, ascended the heights, and at length
got into the green level plain, halting at the same spot where we had rested in
coming along. Here we obtained a magnificent view of Hekla, and made a
number of sketches. The prospect varies but little, as we ride along skirting the
hills and at length ascend them on the other side of the plain. From this point,
Hekla still appears dome-shaped; the three peaks being scarcely perceptible
from the distance—about thirty miles—at which we stand, and only indicated
by very slight dints in its rounded outline. The mountain, covered with snow
and mottled here and there with black patches, rises beyond a low range of
purple hills and towers high above them, in shape and colour not unlike Mont
Blanc as seen from the banks of the Arve below Geneva, if we could only
imagine the monarch of mountains deprived of his surrounding Aiguilles, and
left standing alone over the vale of Chamouni.
The bird’s-eye view of the great flat green plain, with rivers meandering
through it, which stretches from the low range of purple hills over which
Hekla rises to the foot of the heights on which we now ride, is both striking
and picturesque.
About twenty volcanoes have been in action in Iceland for the last 1000 years.
Of these the eruptions of Hekla have been the most frequent, although by no
means so destructive as many of the others. Only attaining a height of about
5000 feet, it owes its celebrity to the frequency of its eruptions; to its rising
from a plain, being visible from a frequented part of the island, and quite
accessible; and also to the fact of its being well seen, from the sea, by vessels
sailing to Greenland and North America. Four and twenty eruptions, of lava,
sand or pumice, are recorded; the last having occurred in 1846. The intervals
between these eruptions vary from six to seventy-six years, the average period
being thirty-five; but some of them have lasted as long as six years at a time.
We give an account of one of these eruptions, selecting that of 1766, which
was remarkable for its violence. “Four years before it took place, when Olafsen
and Povelsen were there, some of the people were flattering themselves with
the belief, that as there had been no outbreak from the principal crater for
upwards of seventy years, its energies were completely exhausted. Others on
the contrary, thought that there was on this account only more reason to
expect that it would soon again commence. The preceding winter was
remarkably mild, so that the lakes and rivers in the vicinity seldom froze, and
were much diminished, probably from the internal heat. On the 4th April
1766, there were some slight shocks of an earthquake; and early next morning
a pillar of sand, mingled with fire and red hot stones, burst with a loud
thundering noise from its summit. Masses of pumice, six feet in circumference,
were thrown to the distance of ten or fifteen miles, together with heavy
magnetic stones, one of which, eight pounds weight, fell fourteen miles off,
and sank into the ground though still hardened by the frost. The sand was
carried towards the north-west, covering the land, one hundred and fifty miles
round, four inches deep; impeding the fishing boats along the coast, and
darkening the air, so that at Thingore, 140 miles distant, it was impossible to
know whether a sheet of paper was white or black. At Holum, 155 miles to the
north, some persons thought they saw the stars shining through the sand-
cloud. About mid-day, the wind veering round to the south-east, conveyed the
dust into the central desert, and prevented it from totally destroying the
pastures. On the 9th April the lava first appeared, spreading about five miles
towards the south-west, and on the 23d May, a column of water was seen
shooting up in the midst of the sand. The last violent eruption was on the 5th
July, the mountains in the interval often ceasing to eject any matter; and the
large stones thrown into the air were compared to a swarm of bees clustering
round the mountain-top; the noise was heard like loud thunder forty miles
distant, and the accompanying earthquakes were more severe at Krisuvik,
eighty miles westward, than at half the distance on the opposite side. The
eruptions are said to be in general more violent during a north or west wind
than when it blows from the south or east, and on this occasion more matter
was thrown out in mild than in stormy weather. Where the ashes were not too
thick, it was observed that they increased the fertility of the grass fields, and
some of them were carried even to the Orkney islands, the inhabitants of
which were at first terrified by what they considered showers of “black
snow.”[12]
This mountain, with its pits of burning sulphur and mud, and openings from
whence issue smoke and flames, is associated with the old superstitions of the
Icelanders as the entrance to the dark abode of Hela, and those gloomy
regions of woe where the souls of the wicked are tormented with fire. Nor are
these ideas to be wondered at in connection with the terrible phenomena of
such an Inferno.
As Hekla lay gleaming peacefully in the sunshine, with a heavier mantle of
snow, we are told, than usual, I bade adieu to it by attempting yet another
sketch from the pony’s back, pulling the rein for five minutes, and then
galloping on after my companions.
Having rounded the shoulder of the hill, we now lost sight of Hekla and the
greater part of the plain. In a region where some brushwood and a few flowers
grew among dark coloured rocks, we came upon a fine example of ropy
looking lava, curiously wrinkled in cooling, and all corrugated in wavy lines.
Soon afterwards we saw a sloping mass of rock, some sixty feet square,
inclined at an angle of 25°, polished smooth by the ice-drift, and deeply
abraded in grooves, all running southwards. The marks were not to be
mistaken, and were more distinct than those we had observed in coming.
Here I gathered specimens of geraniums and other flowers, placing them
between the leaves of my pocket Wordsworth. Coming to a glade of dwarf
willows, we observed bees feeding on the flowers of the flossy species, and
were forthwith, even in this northern region, reminded of Mount Hybla,
recalling Virgil’s line,
“Hyblæis apibus florem depastâ salicti.”
LAKE OF THINGVALLA.
The Professor, Mr. Murray, and I, riding together, now reached and descended
the Hrafnagjá or Raven’s Chasm, which has already been described. It was
steeper than a stair, full of breaks and irregular turns. At some places, the
ponies drew up their hind legs and slid down. It seems more perilous to
descend than to climb such places, but the ponies are very sure-footed. On a
bosky slope, I pulled the bridle and made a sketch of the lake of Thingvalla,
the waters of which were intensely blue.
Crossing the plain of Thingvalla, we reached our rendezvous—the Pastor’s
house—about nine o’clock at night, after a splendid day’s ride; some of us,
much to our own surprise, being not only in excellent spirits, but fresh and in
good physical condition; rough-riding feats and prolonged fatigues
notwithstanding. We dined on trout, soup, &c.; and at 20 minutes to 11 P.M. I
wandered out, alone, to the Althing to sketch and gather flowers.
The three lost ponies, that strayed from the Geysers, have just come in. I see
them now scampering before the guide and passing the waterfall of the Oxerá,
which thunders over the black rock-wall, about half a mile from the descent
into the Almannagjá. The fall looks like a square sheet of burnished silver
from the sacred Lögberg or Hill of Laws, on which I now sit writing,
entrenched and moated round with deep volcanic chasms about two-thirds
filled with clear water.
Skialdbreid—or Broadshield—Jökul, to the north-west, is mottled towards its
base with black patches, but its summit and flanks are lit up with pure roseate
light. Armannsfell, one of a range nearer and more to the north, is of a dark
rich venetian red colour touched with bronze and exhibits a living glow, an
effect I have never elsewhere seen equalled or even approached. Whereever
the light falls, all is transfigured and glorious beyond description; yet there is
no approach to hardness, either of line or tint, but an atmosphere of subduing
softness, transparency, and purity, magically invests everything with an etherial
spiritual beauty: such effects are peculiar to Iceland.
Having made a sketch of the lake, I retired to rest, the last of our party. We
slept, without undressing, in our old quarters—on the floor of the pastor’s
parlour.
Tuesday morning.—Rose between five and six o’clock, and went out to gather
ferns—aspidium or crystoperis—on the Althing. The scene around was singularly
wild, and yet strikingly picturesque in its desolate strangeness; while the tender
green of the valley itself afforded a refreshing rest to the eye. On returning I
made a sketch of the priest’s house;[13] examined the site of the little church
which was being re-erected; strolled down by the river side, and performed my
ablutions in it—laying my clothes in the priest’s fishing coble, which was lying
hauled up on the bank.
I then paused at the simple churchyard close by, and tried to conjure up life
and heart histories for those who had entered this “Saula-hleith”—or soul-
gate, as the churchyard is beautifully named—while hymns were being chanted
over them, and who were now resting peacefully beneath the green sod.
Conversation with the pastor was again attempted to be carried on in Latin.
His morning salutation was “bonus dies,” or other remarks about the weather,
as with ourselves. After squaring accounts, on leaving, we gave him—as a
nimbus for the rix-dollars—a mediaeval “pax-vobiscum,” in exchange for his
many expressions of good-will towards us, and his rounded classical “vale!”
The glebe hay was being tedded, but the ground here as elsewhere is covered
with little hummocks. Were it only levelled and drained, the soil, one would
think, should raise turnips in quantity, and, certainly, larger hay crops would be
obtained. During the short summer there is not time for the grain to ripen; but
food suitable for cattle might readily be grown in the valleys; for it is chiefly by
the rearing of stock, that Iceland, when she can muster the requisite enterprise
and activity, will, in all probability, advance to commercial prosperity.
After sketching the gorge of the Almannagjá—see illustration, p. 81—we
ascended it, crossed the lava plateau, and rapidly retraced our steps to the
capital, only pausing now and again to take a sketch.
ICELANDIC FARM.
Over the last part of our journey, from the river which we forded just below
the farm house on the hill, to Reykjavik, we rode like the wind—men and
horses alike eager to get to the end of their journey. Our entry into the town
was a regular scrimmage. It was a quarter to three P.M. when we got in, having
done the distance from Thingvalla in six hours. By this time we had ceased to
wonder at any feats performed by the ponies. Seldom, if ever, disconcerted,
they go at anything in a most patient philosophical manner, and get over
difficulties which elsewhere one would think insurmountable, and sheer
madness to attempt. Thanks to mackintosh overboots—made specially for the
purpose—at the end of the journey, I was the only one of our party whose feet
were dry.
REYKJAVIK.
Mr. Bushby invited us to dine with him at the hotel, and Dr. Mackinlay kindly
gave us his room to dress in.
How oddly things sometimes turn up! We saw lying on the floor a box of
“Brown and Polson’s Patent Corn Flour,” which at once suggested two very
different, although not incongruous, trains of ideas; one, the contrast between
the hurry and bustle of railway stations in Britain, where the corn flour is
everywhere so extensively advertised, and the primitive locomotion of Iceland,
in which not a single steam engine has been erected; and the other, associating
the beautiful locality where the flour is made—near Paisley, at the foot of “the
Braes of Gleniffer” celebrated in song by Tannahill, one of Scotland’s sweetest
minstrels—with some of the loveliest scenes we had lately witnessed. For here,
are we not in the land of Eddas and Sagas! and is not the Poet found singing
wherever there are human hearts!
A gentleman told me, that having obtained permission, he had, that afternoon,
caught seventy trout in the salmon river—three of them from his pony’s back;
he had only to throw the fish over his head on the grass behind him, as fast as
he could whip them up. He had seen a fisherman get 130 at one haul of the
net. I saw the manager of the fishery, an active intelligent Scotchman, whom,
from his appearance, one would take to be the mate of a vessel. He told me he
had been three years in Iceland, and had some of his family here with him.
Mr. Bushby procured us several specimens of double refracting Iceland spar,
obtained from the other side of the island. It polarizes light, and is valuable in
various ways, both to science and the arts.
Mr. Murray and Mr. Cleghorn set out after dinner to visit the sulphur mines of
Krisuvik; I, on the principle of letting well alone, preferred remaining at
Reykjavik to undergoing the fresh fatigue of such a ride immediately after the
Geyser journey. Three of us spent the evening, by invitation, at the Governor’s
—the Count Von Trampe. I had a long conversation with him in German,
during which he mentioned that all the old Saga and Edda MSS. had been
removed to Copenhagen; and, in answer to sundry enquiries, told me that the
“lang spiel” is the only Icelandic musical instrument now in use. It is
something like a guitar or banjo, has four strings, and is played with a little
bow. The airs now played are chiefly Danish dance music, and other foreign
melodies.
The Icelanders, like the natives of Madagascar, have adopted the music of our
“God save the Queen” as their national air. The words to which it is sung were
composed in the beginning of the present century, by the late Biarni
Thorarensen, Governor of the northern province of the island, when he was a
student at the university of Copenhagen. The song is called “Islands Minni,”
or the “Remembrance of Iceland;” and finely illustrates the intense love of
country displayed by Icelanders, who, wherever they may travel or sojourn,
always sooner or later return home though but to die; for to them, as their
own proverb has it, “Iceland is the best land on which the sun shines.” We
here give the words of this national song, which, calling up in foreign lands
memories of sweet home, is no less to the Icelander, than is the Ranz de Vaches
to the Swiss when far away from the one chalet he loves best in the world,
perched, it may be, on the lofty mountain side, or lying peacefully in some
green sunny valley.
MUSIC IN AN ICELANDIC HOME.
ISLANDS MINNI.
I.
Eldgamla Isafold,
Astkæra fósturmold,
Fjallkonan fríd!
Mögum thín muntu kær,
Medan lönd girdir sær
Og gumar girnast mær;
Gljár sól á hlíd.
II.
III.
IV.
Ödruvís er ad sjá
A thjer hvítfaldinn há
Heid-himin vid;
Eda thær krystalls ár,
A hverjar sólin gljár,
Og heidar himin-blár,
Há-jökla rid.
V.
Eldgamla Isafold,
Astkæra fósturmold,
Fjallkonan fríd!
Agætust audnan thér
Upp lypt, bidjum vér,
Medan ad uppi er
Oll heimsins tíd![14]
From the literal prose-rendering into English which follows, the reader will be
able to gather how beautiful such thoughts must be, when clothed in the
flowing rhythmic music of the original stanzas.
THE REMEMBRANCE OF ICELAND.
I.
II.
III.
IV.