1.

LEARNING OBJECTIVE
The Learning objectives of this manuals are
 To become familiar with electrical safety instructions, components and their symbols.

 To make simple circuits using switches and lamps on their own.

 To understand the operation of Motors and their starters.

2. INRODUCTION
Electrical equipments and appliances are inevitable from human life.

Basic information about Electrical input devices like switches, push buttons, limit switches etc will be
provided.

Basic information about Electrical output devices like lamps, heaters, motors etc will be provided.

Basic information about Electrical interfacing devices like relays, contactors, timers etc will be provided.

Basic information about wiring between input devices and output devices will be provided.

Additional exercises in wiring will be provided.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN.

casual attitude in the workshop.

tools in hand as well as on the worktable.

What are some tips for working with power tools?

 Switch tools OFF before connecting them to a power supply.

 Disconnect power supply before making adjustments.
 Ensure tools are properly grounded or double-insulated. The grounded tool must have an
approved 3-wire cord with a 3-prong plug. This plug should be plugged in a properly grounded 3-
pole outlet.
 Test all tools for effective grounding with a continuity tester or a ground fault circuit interrupter
(GFCI) before use.
 Do not bypass the switch and operate the tools by connecting and disconnecting the power cord.
 Do not use electrical tools in wet conditions or damp locations unless tool is connected to a GFCI.
 Do not clean tools with flammable or toxic solvents.
 Do not operate tools in an area containing explosive vapours or gases, unless they are intrinsically
safe and only if you follow the manufacturer's guidelines.
 Electrical tools

Combination Pliers :Used for holding, twisting or cutting of wires.

Precaution : Do not cut steel wires. Do not use in place of hammer.
Side cutting Plier: Used for Cutting at narrow places or ordinary places for removing
insulation.
Round Nose Plier or Flat Nose Plier: Used for holding, twisting or joining the wire at narrowplaces.
Precaution: While using insulate yourself and do not put hot iron on the wire.
Tenon saw or back Saw: Used for cutting wooden boards, Block casting etc. Precaution: Protect from
rust, do not use to cut metal pieces.
Hack saw: Used for cutting conduit GI pipes or mild steel.
Precaution: Keep straight while cutting, apply water on blade while cutting and protect form rust.
Mallet: Used as a hammer and made of wood
Electric knife: removing insulation of wires
Line Tester: Used for testing the current.
Royal Plug Tool: It is made of steel and is used for making holes in the stone wall or concrete wall for
fiber made Royal plugs.
Screw driver: Used for loosening, tightening and to keep the screws in position Precaution : Do not use
in place of firmer chisel and use particular size for screws.
.Ball Peen Hammer: Used for fitting nails in the walls or wooden boards.
Precaution: Never use loose and greasy handled hammer.

Soldering Iron: Used to solder small joint terminals

 Wire splicing and termination

WIRE SPLICING

To make different types of splicing

Materials solid wire, pliers side cuter insulation remover, Electrical knife

Introduction

In all jobs of wiring splicing (jointing ) and termination is a necessity. The jointing is required since the
wires are manufactured in 100 meteslengths and the total length of wires used for house wiring may be
more than 100 meters the termination of wires is needed, as the wires are to be connected to switches
holders receptacles etc. it is important to note that all point made must be mechanically and electrically
sound.

TYPES OF SPLICES

This time I will explain the techniques usual to splices conductor in electrical works.

1) Western Union Splice

The Western Union splice joins small, solid conductors.

o Prepare the wires for splicing. Enough insulation is removed to make the splice. The conductor is cleaned.
o Bring the wires to a crossed position and make a long twist or bend in each wire
o Wrap one end of the wire and then the other end four or five times around the straight portion of each
wire
o Press the ends of the wires down as close as possible to the straight portion of the wire. This prevents the
sharp ends from puncturing the tape covering that is wrapped over the splice.
2) Staggering Splices

Joining small multiconductor cables often presents a problem. Each conductor must be spliced and taped.
If the splices are directly opposite each other, the overall size of the joint becomes large and bulky. A
smoother and less bulky joint can be made by staggering the splices.

Care should be taken to ensure that a short wire from one side of the cable is spliced to a long wire, from
the other side of the cable. The sharp ends are then clamped firmly down on the conductor.

3) Rattail Joint

A splice that is used in a junction box and for connecting branch circuits is the rattail joint. Wiring that is
installed in buildings is usually placed inside long lengths of steel or aluminum pipe called a conduit.

Whenever branch or multiple circuits are needed, junction boxes are used to join the conduit. To create a
rattail joint, first strip the insulation off the ends of the conductors to be joined. You then twist the wires
to form the rattail effect. This type of splice will not stand much stress.
 5) Knotted Tap Joint

All the splices discussed up to this point are known as butted splices. Each was made by joining the free
ends of the conductors together. Sometimes, however, it is necessary to join a branch conductor to a
continuous wire called the main wire. Such a junction is called a tap joint.

The main wire, to which the branch wire is to be tapped, has about 1 inch of insulation removed. The
branch wire is stripped of about 3 inches of insulation.

Step :

o The branch wire is laid behind the main wire. About three-fourths of the bare portion of the branch wire
extends above the main wire.
o The branch wire is brought under the main wire, around itself.
o Then over the main wire to form a knot. The branch wire is then wrapped around the main conductor in
short.
o Tight turns; and the end is trimmed off.

The knotted tap is used where the splice is subject to strain or slippage. When there is no strain, the knot
may be eliminated.
 RESIDENTIAL INSTALLATION
fluorescent lamp

5.1 Tube light circuit AIM OF THE EXPRIMENT: To conduct the experiment on tube light circuit
COMPONENTS REQUIRED: SPST Switch module, Tube light holder module, Fuse module, Fuse, Power cable,
Casing and capping, Tube light, Thermal starter, Choke, Multi strand wire (Red and Black color wires) for circuit
connection and working board.
TOOLS REQUIRED: Screw driver, cutting plier, nose plier, wire stripper, nipper, line tester, knife and insulation
tape.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM: PROCEDURE: Make connections as per the circuit diagram on the working board.
OBSERVATIONS: After confirming the circuit connection when switch “S1” is switched ON, the tube light started
glowing.

What are fluorescent lamps?

There are various sizes and types of fluorescent lamps. Typically four and eight-foot long lamps
are used in homes, offices, and institutions. High-intensity discharge (HID) lamps such as
mercury vapor, metal halide, neon and high pressure sodium lamps are commonly used by
farms, businesses and cities.
Fluorescent lamps are long-lasting and energy efficient when compared to standard light bulbs.
Future use is expected to increase. Some manufacturers are now producing more energyefficient lamps with less
mercury.

Original preheat circuit uses a starter. When starter switch is

closed, current runs through and heats cathodes. When arc
through tube is established, switch opens.

The heart of every fluorescent fixture is its ballast. The ballast

consists of a wire winding on an iron core, which reduces and
regulates the voltage that flows through it. Electrical current
enters the fixture through the ballast. From there, it flows through wiring to lamp holders, and ultimately, to
cathodes within the tube.

However, more power is required to start a fluorescent lamp than to maintain it. Preheat fixtures get their name from
a starting circuit that sends increased current through the cathodes to heat their coated filaments. The heated
cathodes send a high-voltage pulse along the tube that creates an arc through the mercury vapor. As the atmosphere
inside the tube heats up, electron activity increases to its most efficient, ballast-sustained level, and the mercury
vapor carries the current on its own. The starting circuit is controlled by a starter switch that opens after a short
preheat period (see preheat starter circuit diagram).

A variation of the starter-switch concept can be found in small desk lamps. Here, however, the starter switch is
manual you simply hold down the switch button until enough heat is generated to sustain the arc through the
mercury vapor.

What’s Inside a Fluorescent Tube Light?

 A fluorescent lamp basically consists of a long glass gas discharge tube. Its inner surface is coated with
phosphorous and is filled with an inert gas, generally argon, with a trace of mercury.

 The tube is then finally sealed at low pressure with two filament electrodes each at its both ends.

 These electrode filaments are used to preheat the tube and initiate a rapid conduction of electrons between
the two end electrodes. The process initially requires a relatively high amount of power.
 The bombardment of these electrons on the inner phosphorous coating is instantly transformed into a
visible bright light, when we ultimately find the tube glowing brightly.

 Once the conduction of electrons between the electrodes is complete, no more heating of the filaments is
required and whole system works at a much lower current.
Electrical symbol
 Lighting fixture controlled at one position

TOOLS REQUIRED wire, plier, one way switch , incandescent lamp, push botton, bell and socket

Wiring Diagram

Junction box

Switch

X Incandescent lamp
 Lighting fixture controlled at two positions

The figure below represents pictorial presentation of lighting fixtures controlled at two positions in the two
installation methods, on surface and in surface. Here you can see the same type of components as is in lesson one
except that the numbers are more. The purposes of lighting fixture, branching boxes and the switches in the circuit
are also the same.

Working principle of the system

In this installation you can see that the two switches are installed at different positions to control the lighting fixture
at preferred positions. The lighting bulb lights when the current completes its circuit from source to the switches,
load and then back to the source. Pressing any of the switches will bring opposite status to the condition of the lamp,
either ON or OFF. This is because the two switches have two routs to be interconnected to each other. The naming
of the switch as two-way single pole switch indicates its operation. Let us see this circuit using different electrical
diagrams

Wiring diagram
Lab 6 Lighting fixture controlled at more than two positions

The figure below represents pictorial presentation of lighting fixtures controlled at five positions in ON SURFACE
installation method. Here you can see that the lighting fixtures installed are fluorescent lamps. The switches control
the lamps together as a group. The purposes of lighting fixtures, branching boxes and the switches are the same as
stated in the previous lessons. What is new in this installation is that the lighting luminaries are fluorescent and three
in number and the switches are five.

Working principle of the system

In this installation the five switches are installed at different positions to control a group of lamps at preferred
position. The luminaries light when the current complete its circuit from source to the switches, loads and back to
the source. Therefore, the condition of the light can be controlled by any of the switches at any position. In such
installation we usually use two two-way switches and n-2 intermediate switches, where n indicates the numbers of
controlling positions. The positions of the intermediate (crossing) switches are between the two two-way switches.
Let us see this circuit using different electrical diagrams.