Always Remember Mary Balogh

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 Not wanting to put a high poultry netting on my fence to keep my
poultry at home, I devised the method shown, and was thus enabled
to use 24-in. wire instead of 48-in., thereby effecting a saving, as
well as not marring the appearance of the fence. Chickens will not
attempt to fly over this wire but once or twice, as they endeavor to
alight on the pickets of the fence instead of the wire, and
consequently are thrown back by striking the wire. The wire should
be supported at each post, as shown in the sketch.—Roy H. Poston,
Flat River, Mo.
A Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form

The Making of the Snow-Block Fort Is Nearly as Much Fun as Daring the
Enemy to Come and Capture It or Capturing the Enemy’s Barricade
 What boy does not enjoy a regular snowball fight—a battle, in fact
—especially when he has a fort of his own building to defend, and
his friends have one which he wants to capture? A way to build a
snow fort that will not crumble easily when the enemy charges it is to
pack the snow into a box form and build the structure of the snow
blocks, as shown in the photograph. Portholes can be provided and
when the snow melts slightly, and freezes again, a very solid wall
results. The form for the block, as detailed in the sketch, is made of a
box, arranged so that it is hinged at one corner and has a catch at
the corner diagonally opposite. The form is set on a wooden board
and when the snow is packed in solidly, the catch is opened and the
form lifted away from the block. It is then carried into position and
another block made on the same board. Several boards are handy in
making the block quickly.—H. S., Chicago, Ill.

¶In applying varnish over an old wood surface, or on new wood that
has become soiled, care should be taken to remove all traces of oil
or grease with benzine.
 Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy

This Model Steam Tractor Is 28 Inches Long and Drives Itself, Wood and Coal
being Used as Fuel

Boys, and others who like to make models, may be interested in a

small steam tractor I designed and built of scrap materials around
the farm shop. I used only the ordinary tools on hand in such a
place. The steam engine and tractor run smoothly, and the engine
propels the tractor just like a large machine of this kind. The tractor is
28 in. long and 14 in. high, and the boiler holds 1¹⁄₄ gal. The bore of
the cylinder is ⁷⁄₈ in. and its stroke 1³⁄₄ in. It was made from an old
iron window weight. I use wood and coal to fire the boiler, and steam
can be got up in a few minutes.—Albert H. Bennington, Park River,
N. D.
 Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts

This Toboggan with Stout Runners Made from Buggy Shafts can be Used
like One of the Ordinary Type, but Works Best on Frozen Snow

A method of making a strong toboggan sled by nailing a suitable

bottom over sections cut from old buggy shafts, as shown in the
sketch, can be adapted easily for use with poles of about the same
size. They can be steamed and bent at the ends and the
construction otherwise made as shown. The shafts were cut to the
length indicated, the curved front end being sawed off. The bottom
was carried up around the curved rear end, and a strong bracing
strip was bolted across them. One-half-inch rope with leather loops
provided handholds, and was also used as a brace at each side of
the front of the sled. Twisted wire may also be used for this purpose.
Cushions of the usual type can easily be made for the toboggan.
 Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem after
Breakdown

When the Front Wheel of One of the Bicycles Broke Down, They were
Rigged into a Tandem, and a Distance of Five Miles to Town was Covered

On a bicycle trip, when about five miles from town, the front axle of
my partner’s bicycle broke, and as neither of us wanted to walk, we
had to find some way of getting us both home. We removed the front
wheel from one of the bicycles, and set the front fork on the rear axle
of the undamaged machine, as shown in the sketch. The axle was
just long enough so that the sides of the fork could be bolted
securely. By careful riding we made the distance to town with only
the slight inconvenience of my partner having to carry the extra
wheel on his back—J. F. G., Mountain Grove, Mo.

¶Do not touch the inner surface of a tent or shelter in the rain, as the
water will drip from the spot touched.
 Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements
To avoid expensive waste of paper in making large bromide
enlargements the following device is useful: Cut an oblong sheet of
stiff cardboard, 5¹⁄₄ by 4 in., with a central opening, measuring 3³⁄₄ by
1¹⁄₂ in. Along the lower edge of the central opening mark off five
spaces of ³⁄₄ in. each, and number them from 1 to 5. Glue a strip of
cardboard, 1 in. wide, at the top and the bottom of the oblong, on the
back. Now glue a second strip of cardboard over each of those just
attached, making the second strips slightly wider to form grooves
similar to those in a sliding-top box.
Cut a piece of cardboard, wide enough to slide easily in these
grooves, and about 7 in. long. In the center of it, cut an opening, 1¹⁄₂
in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, with the longer dimension extending across
the strip. By inserting this slide into the grooves, the opening in it
may be shifted to correspond to any of the five ³⁄₄-in. indications at
the lower edge of the opening in the oblong frame.
Focus the enlargement on the easel and put the cap on the lens.
Then pin a 1¹⁄₂-in. strip of bromide paper where a good range of
detail will fall upon it. Pin the oblong card over the bromide strip and
make five successive exposures, of increasing duration, by sliding
the strip so that its opening is opposite the number indications on the
oblong. Note the particulars of exposure at the time and later
develop the strip of bromide paper. Suppose the exposures were of
8, 16, 24, 32, and 40 seconds’ duration, and upon development it
was found that the first and second exposures were much
underexposed and that the fifth was overexposed; the third and
fourth being only slightly under and overexposed, respectively. Then
the mean of these two, that is 24 plus 32 divided by 2, or 28
seconds, will be approximately the correct exposure. The use of this
device will effect a considerable saving.—H. J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex,
England.
Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of Grip
 Indications on the Vaulting Pole Aid the Athlete in Finding the
Proper Grip

Unnecessary delay in running off the pole-vaulting events at

athletic meets is caused by the repeated testing of vaulters for the
proper height at which to grip the vaulting pole. This was readily
overcome by marking intervals of 1 ft. on the upper end of the
vaulting poles. Vaulters judge the proper height once and thereafter
may easily take the same grip with the aid of the indications on the
pole.—A. B. Wegener, Madison, N. J.
 Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water

The Current of the Canal Causes the Wheel to Revolve, Carrying the Water
to the Trough

The current of a canal was utilized to raise water for irrigation

purposes, and other uses, by means of the homemade device
shown in the illustration. A large-size buggy wheel was set on an old
axle, and extensions were fixed to eight of the spokes. Paddles, 9 by
18 in. in size, were secured to the extensions, and uniform-size tin
cans were fixed to the paddles, as shown. The current revolved the
wheel, carrying the loaded buckets upward, and the water was thus
poured from them into a wide trough braced on the platform. A flume
led the water to the irrigation ditches, and pipes were used to
conduct some of it to the ranch house for general purposes. When
the water is not desired for useful purposes the trough is withdrawn
and the water drops into the canal.—Joseph Gray, Heber, Calif.
 Protecting an Air Pump against Denting

Denting of Tire Pumps is Prevented by the Use of a Case Like That Shown

The brass cylinders of many tire pumps are made of thin metal,
and a slight blow may dent them. Such injuries interfere with the
action of the plunger, making the pump almost useless. A case which
will afford protection to the pump is shown in the sketch. It was made
of two strips of wood cored out on the inner sides to fit the pump and
provided with small hinges and hooks, to lock it into place.
 A Feather as an X-Ray Lens
The outline of the bones in the hand may be seen by holding it
before a strong light and looking through a lens made of a piece cut
from the tip of a feather. The sketch shows such a lens, which is
mounted in a small piece of cardboard that may be carried in the
pocket, and which affords diversion wherever exhibited.
 The device is made as follows: Procure a soft white feather from a
fowl, and cut off the tip as indicated in the upper sketch. Cut a piece
of cardboard, about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long. Fold it to form a folder,
3 in. long, and cut a hole, ¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, through both parts of it.
Glue the tip of the feather between the folder at the hole, taking care
that the fibers lie flat and that no rib is exposed. Glue the edges of
the folder, and the device is ready for use. Hold the hand, or other
object, to be examined about 15 in. from the lens, and place the
latter close to the eye. Looking through the hole toward an electric,
or other strong, light, it will be observed that the bones of the hand,
for example, may be seen clearly. They will be outlined with a band
of varicolored light. A frosted globe is better than one which exposes
a filament.—Leander L. Droesch, Chickasaw, Ohio.

¶A safety-razor blade, fitted into a wooden handle, provides a

convenient tool for ripping seams and cutting cardboard.
 Guard Saves Wear on Vest
Bookkeepers and others who work close to a desk nearly all day
find that unusual wear results on the front of the vest, forcing them to
discard their suits sooner than would otherwise be necessary. By
providing a strip of cloth of a color to match the goods of which the
suit is made and buttoning it across the front of the vest from the
lower to the upper button this wear is prevented.—J. A. McGrath,
Hancock, Michigan.
 Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket
Outlet

The Small Pipe Fixed to the Water-Jacket Outlet Siphons the Bilge Water
from the Bottom of the Motorboat

The sketch shows a simple method of removing the bilge water

from a motorboat automatically while the engine is in operation. A
small pipe is fitted into the outlet from the water jacket, as shown at
A, and extended to the bottom of the boat where the bilge water
accumulates. A sack is fixed over the end of the pipe to prevent
particles of dirt from entering the pipe. The water passing out of the
water-jacket outlet causes a siphoning action in the small pipe, and
the bilge water is drawn up and passes out of the larger outlet. At the
left, in dotted outline, is shown a method of removing the bilge water