Professional Documents
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Heavy Yarn
Heavy Yarn
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Master’s Designer, LLC
Marjorie J McDonald
Knitwear Designer
Copyright © 1989-2011
Master’s Designer, LLC
All rights reserved worldwide
No part of this material may be reproduced in any form or by any means without
obtaining written permission from Master’s Designer, LLC
First printing
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Copyright Notice
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While all attempts have been made to verify information provided in this publication, neither
Master’s Designer, LLC or the partners thereof, assume any responsibility for errors, omissions,
or contrary interpretation of the subject matter herein.
The purchaser or reader of this publication assumes responsibility for the use of these materials
and information. The author and/or partners of Master’s Designer, LLC assume no responsibility
or liability whatsoever on the behalf of any purchaser or reader of these materials.
This publication is intended to provide information about how to begin or how to improve your
Passap machine knitting skills.
Adherence to all applicable copyright laws and regulations in the United States or any other
jurisdiction is the sole responsibility of the purchaser or reader. The author and instructor of
Passap Knitter assumes no responsibility or liability whatsoever on the behalf of any purchaser
or reader of these materials. This information may not under any circumstances be used or be
copied by any persons other than the original author in whole or in part for any teaching
purposes whatsoever nor supplied to others as written notes or handouts.
This material is about my experience with this machine and how I have used it successfully. I
am not a representative for the company nor do I speak on their behalf.
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Heavy Yarn Techniques for Passap Knitters
I would like to THANK YOU for your interest in finding ways to increase your Passap machine
knitting skills…
In my Heavy Yarn Techniques for Passap Knitters, I teach several ways to help you accelerate
your search for what type of knitting techniques you prefer and show you how to get started.
You see, when it comes to knitting, it is all about the relationship you are creating with your
selection of stitch patterns and techniques and color and texture combinations. Which pattern
and technique are the best for the type of knit fabric you want to create? What colors or textures
will enhance your finished knit item? But the most important, what yarn is going to give you the
effect you are looking to create in the finished knit item.
It is this ‘inside’ information that I want to share with you here in this Heavy Yarn Techniques for
Passap Knitters, I have parted the curtains to bring you the inside scoop on the multi-billion
dollar fashion industry and what part knitting has played in the industry. Showing you the value
of using your knitting machine and creating color and texture in your knitting, using yarns that
are not the usual to give you a complete understanding of the process of how to start and
sustain your ability to use your Passap knitting machine and to combine colors and textures in
your knits and find ways to use yarns most others do not feel they could use.
Whether you are just starting out in machine knitting or you are a seasoned machine knitter,
Heavy Yarns for Passap Knitters brings you the latest in machine knitting with yarns most others
have not tried. You will be increasing your use of stitch patterns and techniques to create
texture with the latest information, strategies, and techniques that can either get you started in
using your Passap knitting machine or in combining stitch patterns and techniques done in
unusual yarns or yarn combinations in your knits to take the machine knitting you already do to
the next level!
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Congratulations on taking this first step by getting this ebook about Heavy Yarns for Passap
Knitters. This is the key to tapping into the System on how you are going to learn to use your
Passap knitting machine with yarns that are not the average that are used.
You must start at the beginning with the very basics of the machine if you are going to be
successful. Once you have a good understanding of the mechanics and what the stitches do in
relationship to how the knitting needles travel the needle path through the back and front locks
on the Duomatic 80 and the back lock on the E 6000. Once you are aware of that you can move
on to the next steps in using the machine and expand your yarn choices.
Once you understand how to use the yarns that are usually used on the knitting machine you
will know what to adjust for the heavier yarns not commonly known to work for the Passap.
I am looking forward to taking you to the next level and teaching you the basics to get started on
a new adventure and opening up your range of yarn choices.
Marjorie J McDonald
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Table of Contents
Introduction 7
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Introduction to Passap Knitting
As a knitwear designer and fiber artist, I often hear, “I LOVE how you used colors and/or
textures in that scarf or shawl or wrap or sweater, but could never do it myself.” Well,
today I are going to share with you some insider tips and skills so that you really CAN
do it yourself.
This information is for all of you out there who love beautiful yarn. Sometimes we are
being stopped by the feeling that “oh, I can’t knit THAT yarn on my knitting machine”
and do not know it is possible to do just that.
Your Passap knitting machine is an incredibly versatile machine, and with a little
knowledge and patience from you, can knit yarns which no other knitting machine can
knit.
The stripper system is what gives someone the ability to knit a lightweight and a
heavyweight yarn in the same row, allowing you to knit much heavier yarn than you
would think.
A trip to your local yarn shop will give you all kinds of possibilities for interesting yarns to
try. Look through the choices on the shelves; check the bargain bin or where they have
just a few balls or skeins left that you could select from for your project. You don’t need
much to practice and the resulting swatches will help you determine which techniques to
try on your special yarns.
Even if you never knit anything but a swatch with the yarn, you will learn how to deal
with that type of yarn. You could take a feeding eyelet with you as a guide. Try fuzzy
mohair, shiny rayon, nubby boucle, lovely cottons and exquisite wools.
NOTE: If the yarn will go through the feeding eyelet, you can probably knit it with at
least one of the following methods!
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Chapter 1: Expanding Your Yarn Range
The model books for your knitting machine always give you the yarn yardages for every
pattern. Since many of the yarns they used to knit those model garments are no longer
available to us, we have to find substitutions from the yarns we can find today.
If you are not familiar with figuring out the yardages of common machine knitting yarns
as well as yarns at the local yarn shop that might be great choices to try on the knitting
machine, that is important to know how to do.
Most yarns usually either have the number of ounces on the skein or the yards per
pound for the cone but this is not always what you find. If you can have a calculation
system to use, you can determine what you have to work with for every yarn so you will
have an idea if it would work with your knitting machine and what stitch size might be
suitable to start with when you begin your knitting.
To find the yards per pound for hand knitting yarns, multiply the yards per ounce by 16
to get the yards per pound.
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If the yardage given is for 1.75 ounces, then multiply by 9.1
16 divided by 1.75 = 9.1 is how I got that figure and what to do if your yarn label
is not in even number of ounces (oz) = your yardage.
Here are common listings found on hand knitting yarn converted to yards per pound
using this method.
Measurement Systems
Different manufacturers use different measurement systems so that can further confuse
the discovery of what yarns will work on your machine. Since yarn count is tied to the
type of fiber, this is an important determination to make.
You can go online or to your local library and find information about burn tests for fibers
that will help you identify your fiber content. Sometimes the burn test will yield odd
results if the yarn is a blend so just be alert to what is happening when you do this.
That will also allow you to know how to care for your knit items once they are
completed.
You can use any size yarn as long as it will fit into the needle and is not hard to pull
down when you have the yarn on the machine doing a sample. Occasionally, I have
found that even though it will fit into the needle because of the stickiness of the yarn it is
hard to move the lock over it and knit with it.
Yarn Count
All yarn manufacturers identify yarn in terms of size and weight with a number system.
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Yarn count, sometimes referred to as thread count, is the number of yards required to
make one pound of size 1 cotton, linen or wool using these assigned numbers.
There are three factors that affect the number of yards per pound or YPP
Since the count system is mathematically accurate, it provides the foundation for
identifying unlabelled yarn and calculating yarn factors that aren’t listed on the label.
Given 3 of the 4 factors (count, size, plies and yards per pound) you can easily calculate
the missing information.
Yarn that is measured by the count system will have a label that reads something like:
10/3 cotton
To use the system and find the yardage, multiply the count times the yardage of size.
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For a plied yarn, multiply the count times the yardage of size 1 and divide by the
number.
WPI is another way to determine which yarns can be substituted for each other,
especially where one of the yarns is a blend or when two yarns have different fiber
content.
Because it is easier to see the size of a yarn from its WPI rather than its count or YPP,
knowing how to determine WPI is an excellent tool for selecting new yarns or sorting
your yarn stash.
If you have been machine knitting for awhile you may be familiar with some of the
common yarns used earlier in the machine knitting magazines and patterns. Some are
no longer available but substitutions for them are usually available when you know the
yards per pound of those yarns. You may hear them referenced in the posts or in
patterns others are recommending.
Bramwell Duomagic was 4100 yards per pound and knit double bed at stitch size 3 to 4
Wool/rayon referred to as woolray was 2200 yards per pound and knit up well at stitch
size 5 or 5.1 (meaning 1 click above the 5)
Sport weight yarns, about 1600 yards per pound knit well single bed at stitch size 6.5
and up (meaning 2 clicks above the 6)
Wool yarn, about 1100 yards per pound knits well at single bed stitch size of 7.5 to 8
Cotton yarn of this same yardage knits well with fine yarn and gives great texture.
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Weighing Your Yarn or Garment
Occasionally, I use a scale if I have knit a sweater and do not have quick access to the
information to see how much I used in yarn when I knit the original. By weighing the
sweater and then weighing the yarn, I can tell if I have or am buying enough yarn to
make a sweater in the same or smaller size. This is very useful when purchasing more
expensive yarns when you do not want to have a lot left over.
Just the simple calculations shown will help you increase your flexibility considerably.
This gives you the confidence to move forward and reduces the stress of sorting out the
information that is currently still available if the yarn suggested is not.
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Chapter 2: What Are Grouchy Yarns
Resilience
Memory
o Will stretch then return to original shape
Knitting with difficult yarns requires patience and practice but it is so worth it to knit with
them because of what you are able to achieve in the resulting knit fabrics.
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Chapter 3: Sort Your Stash
If you have a reasonably large stash of yarn, chances are good that you have a variety
of labels and a combination of skeins, balls and cones. Occasionally when yarns come
with a machine you have purchased from someone else, your items may not have
labels at all.
Yes, the DM 80 and the E 6000 can be used to knit these yarns.
You can use any size yarn as long as it will fit into the needle and is not hard to pull
down when you have the yarn on the machine doing a sample. Occasionally, I have
found that even though it will fit into the needle because of the stickiness of the yar n it is
hard to move the lock over it and knit with it. In this instance, if you really want to knit
with the yarn you can try waxing or yarn spray. If it is still too difficult try one on the 1
strand thin 1 strand heavy techniques before you give up on working with it.
The details of the yarn and the way it feels will help you zero in on what might be the
problem if you are encountering one. If the locks moved easily across the bed without
any yarn you then can immediately identify that it has to be something to do with the
yarn.
If you need additional help in sorting your yarn you can find a great 2 eBooks at
http://www.knittingcolor.com/options/ One is about knitting with color and a touch of
texture which gives you tools to learn how to combine colors and put new color
combinations together and the second one is turn yarn piles into scrumptious styles
which shows you how to sort and organize your yarns so you have them ready when
you want to knit. Both of them are essential to helping you to apply this information.
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Chapter 4: About Stitch Size
Approximate stitch sizes for where to start are on page 9 in the E 6 manual for smooth
yarns. Because this is shown in the metric system we need to add in some additional
factors if you are not familiar with the metric system. For those who use the metric
system, this information can help you calculate yarn for patterns not written that way.
Listed below are important metric conversion facts. Rounded up to the next decimal,
these additional measurements will come in handy when determining yardage per skein
or calculating an accurate stitch and row gauge swatch measurement.
Ex: Using the sports yarn 3-ply shown on page 9 in your E 6000 manual you will know
how much yarn and what approximate stitch size to use to start knitting your item.
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Industrial Yarn
800 m = length per 100 g
100g = 3.57 oz which will help you calculate amount of yarn
Stitch size for stockinette 4.5 - 5.25
Stitch size for K / K 1.75 - 2
This gives you a place to start but you will need to try different stitch sizes in the yarn
swatches you are knitting to get the exact stitch size for the yarn on your particular
knitting machine as each of the machines vary slightly.
If a yarn is dense and tightly spun it will knit up different than one that is spun loosely
and is a fluffy so exact yard per pound will need to be adjusted to be sure you have
enough yarn to complete your project.
Once you have sorted your yarns into types and weights, begin with the simplest stitch
techniques and easiest yarns and work your way through the techniques given.
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Chapter 5: Your Only Limitation
Physical limitations of the knitting machine itself determine what ultimately can be
knitted.
However, there are many other variables to explore in the quest to expand the range of
yarns which may be knitted on the machine.
By knitting one stitch heavy yarn and one stitch of a lightweight yarn the heavy yarn can
‘borrow’ space from the light yarn. Keep this in mind as you work through the
techniques.
Don’t overlook the possibility of knitting 1 heavy yarn with 2, 3 or 4 color double bed
knitting. Using 1 yarn, 1100-1400 yards per pound with others that are lighter can make
a beautiful textured fabric.
Use the finest yarn as the main yarn and the others will peek through, creating an
interesting effect. Rayon chenille and rayon work especially well for this technique.
Using an eyelash yarn as the contrast yarn and a fine yarn as the main yarn will allow
the eyelashes to expand through all of the stitches making a soft textured knit fabric.
There is a fine line between extending the range of what your machine can knit and
damaging your machine. Use only good quality yarns for this so you give yourself every
opportunity to succeed. It may be necessary to give a good push to the lock to get the
first row started but if it continues to be very difficult you would want to try a different
technique or others that are shown to see if one of them might work.
Keep records of your swatches with these heavier yarns so if you want to do a knit
project in the future you will have a place to start. Any additional notes will help you
have a more fun experience in the real project too.
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Tension on the mast
How many stitches
How many rows
What stitch pattern you used
If you did a 1X1 rib before you started the knitting how many rows did you knit
Any special notes for handling the yarn you needed to do
This will be a valuable resource for you with all of your knitting but especially with the
heavier yarns.
Having this done in advance does several things for you. You become familiar with the
pattern, you can really have a sense of if you like the texture and you will know what
things might be problems that you might encounter when you get ready to do the actual
knitting. You will have a sense of how much time to allow for the knit project so you do
not cut your time short and not get it competed for the date and time you wanted.
You will have the confidence you need to approach this project and know you will be
able to complete it with ease which makes the satisfaction level go way up for you. Most
of all you will feel like you have a number of things to choose from and that is always a
great feeling.
Start your first test swatch over 20 needles on the right side of the middle to save time
and energy especially if you are using several yarns and have to be in and out of the
color changer frequently. Once you determine that the yarn will work then you can set
up your larger swatch to determine your gauge.
Casting – On
Always cast-on with a contrast yarn. I often in the real piece use a blending color that I
can turn up for the hem so the weight is reduced in that area.
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1:1 makes it easy to add weights and then to transfer to the desired needle bed set up
when you get to the yarns you want to try out.
Handle up
1:1 set up in needle rule
Orange strippers
Contrast yarn SS 2
RC 000 knit one row to left. Hang on comb and weights
RC1 Lock to left. Increase SS to 4 Change lock setting to CX/CX Remove
strippers, knit 2 rows. Lock on left.
RC 3 Change to N/N knit to right
Cast on complete Add orange strippers knit to RC12
RC 12 Increase Stitch size to at least 5. Transfer, if necessary, to desired needle
bed set-up. Knit at least 4 rows with your specialty yarn. Increase SS if needed.
Determine if SS needs to be adjusted and see what SS will work best
Now you are ready to knit the gauge swatch
Keep notes of all of the steps especially SS for your future reference.
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Chapter 6: Let’s Get Started
Single bed knitting (stocking stitch or stockinette) and its variations may give
surprisingly beautiful results. These work well for yarn I call borderline yarns that are
1000 – 1600 YPP that range in stitch size from 6.5 – 8 Just let the yarn do the work by
itself using the basic stitch patterns.
Starting Steps
Cast on as above.
Transfer all stitches to the front bed.
Use the black strippers
Change to main yarn
SS 7- 8
Locks N /GX
Knit 10 rows
Lower front bed to look at knitting – If knitting OK raise front bed
Try one of the following
Intarsia
Rib Set- Up
Transfer to 4 X 6 or 8 X 8
o NOTE: the more stitches in the group the less elasticity the knit fabric will
have
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Cables Stitches
Cables can take time but, if you enjoy them, it is worth the time you spend to create
them. 4 stitch cables are the easiest to do. Purl stitches are on one bed and the
stockinette stitches are on the other bed. You can turn the cables o n either bed, just
make a note of which are easiest for you to do so in the future you can do the set-up
without getting everything done and recognizing the reverse set up was the easier one
for you to do.
Machine knit cables look the best with at least 1 purl stitch on either side.
Try turning the cables every 8-10 rows
You do not need to cable on every group of 4 needles
With 2 of your yellow tools, take the stitches off of their needles
o Put the 2 stitches from the right tool onto the left needles
o Put the 2 stitches from the left tool onto the right needles
Remember your order so you can repeat it the same way
Baby Cables
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Back Lock to BX
Front Lock to LX
Knit 2 rows with yarn
Knit 2 rows without yarn
o On the rows with no yarn, the back bed arrow key will put all of the
pushers down, nothing will knit on the front bed, all stitches will drop
making lace
Give a tug to the cast on comb to be sure the stitches are dropping off
For DM 80
N / HX knit 2 rows
Knit 2 rows front lock only Deco on 4
Drop Stitch
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Try Knitting techniques 135, 136 on page 144 of E 6 pattern book
To knit fairisle on every other needle, enlarge pattern in width X 2 for the E 6 and
for the DM 80 use a punch card with pattern doubled in width. Make sure your
pattern is only 20 stitches wide for your swatch and multiples of 20 for larger knit.
For interesting textures the following techniques will give you very interesting knit
fabrics. You will be knitting 2 rows with the heavy yarns and 2 rows for the fine yarn.
The fine yarn can be a contrast or a similar color. Try some combinations of each to see
which you like and select what will give the project result that you will enjoy.
Blend colors with sewing thread for extra interest especially if you have a yarn
color that is hard to match with the heavy yarn
Add 1 thread to finer yarn for color and more strength
Use the same color of yarn for a nicely textured knit fabric
Use the same stitch size for both fine and heavy yarn
Knit 2 rows fine yarn
Knit 2 rows heavy yarn
Cast On Group 1
SS 5
Orange strippers
All needles between end needles in working position
Handle down
RC 000 N /N knit 1 row to left
Hang cast on comb and weights
Remove strippers
CX /CX Knit to right and back to left
RC 3 lock to right
When teeth from the cast on comb are no longer visible add orange strippers
Cast on complete
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Stitch Pattern 1
E-6000
Stitch Pattern 1000 Technique 180
Decrease stitch size for tuck pattern stitches on front bed
Front bed pushers 1 up 1 down
Back bed pushers 1 in rest 1 in work
DM80
Pushers 1 up and 1 down on both beds
Possible Options:
Cast On Group 2
SS 2
1:1 rib
Racking Handle up
Orange strippers
RC 000 N /N knit 1 row to left
Hang cast on comb and weights
Remove strippers
CX /CX SS 4 Knit to right and back to left
RC 3 N / N lock to right Cast on complete
Add orange strippers knit to
RC 11 increase stitch size to size 6 or more
Set up St Pat A with no transfer
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Stitch Pattern 2
DM 80
1 X 1 cast on
1 pusher in work, 1 pusher in rest under needles in work
Every other needle both beds put in the rail
DM 80 E 6000
BX \ BX BX \ LX
BX \ BX BX \ LX
AX \ BX AX \ LX
AX \ BX AX \ LX
AX \ AX AX \ KX
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Chapter 7: After the Swatch
You can use a garment that you like the shape of to calculate your specialty yarn knit
section.
Schematics from hand knitting patterns work well to determine the row and stitches
needed.
The large piece right off the knitting machine might be much larger than after it rests
and the yarn relaxes so allow extra time for this. Because of the weight and length of
the pieces, wearing may influence the yarn sections. Hang before assembling to make
sure the pieces do not grow excessively.
A great way to contain the pieces and support them so they do not grow is to do a pad
stitch with the pieces for the garment cut out the right size from a sheer fabric like an
organza or chiffon. Pad stitch the entire piece. When this is done you might want to
plan to put in a lining to cover the pad stitching. This is very effective to allow the
garment pieces to keep their shape. If you do not know how to do this, find someone
who does tailoring and have them pad stitch your sections.
Novelty yarns no not generally do well with ribbing. If you are using light weight and
heavy weight yarns here are some suggestions:
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Ideas to consider:
Full Needle Rib- use when you don’t want the hem of the garment to pull in.
Begin with full needle rib and weights.
RC 00 Cast on every needle both beds
Racking handle down
Orange strippers
SS 2 in lighter yarn
N /N Knit 1 row to left
Hang on cast on comb and weights
Remove strippers
SS 4 CX / CX knit 2 rows
RC 3 EX / N or N / EX (the plain side of the knit is EX side) Knit to right, add
orange strippers Knit the length desired for the rib. Last row N / N or N / EX
Transfer to every other needle set up
Fairisle Rib
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Adding 1 X 1 Rib after the main knitting is completed
Lower the front bed. With the wrong side of the knit facing you, hang the cast on edge of
the piece onto the back bed needles, stretching the piece to use as many needles as
possible.
Black strippers
Finer yarn May need to be 2-3 strands
SS 5-6
Close front bed
Lock N / GX Knit 1 row to left pulling down of fabric while pushing the lock
Transfer to 1 X 1 rib set up
Orange strippers
Racking handle up
Knit desired number of rows of rib with heavy yarn SS 6-8 as needed
Bind off rib with lock on right
If possible increase stitch size, knit 1 row to left
With orange ruler, push up all needles on both beds until stitches almost ready to
drop behind latches. With crochet tool, bind off by pulling one stitch through the
next beginning at right of bed.
Keep your swatches with the important details. Use them to advance your knowledge of
yarns and of the machine. If a technique does not work try to figure out why it didn’t.
You will discover perhaps a way to have it work.
All of these techniques are just the beginning of your yarn adventure and knitting
machine exploration. You can really have fun with yarns that no-one thought could
possibly work on this knitting machine
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Chapter 8: General Tips
If you are using yarn that is hairy or nubby you may want to use the paraffin disk on wire
eyelet to prevent these nubs or hairs from the yarn from getting caught
Transfer to needle bed set up, increase stitch size you will be using for main yarn, knit a
few rows then switch to main yarn
Wind your skein or re-wind your ball a second time so you have a center pull you can
put into your plastic cups on your mast. Leaving a center pull from the factory and using
that sometimes causes the yarn to catch on itself. Re-winding will eliminate that from
happening.
A yarn close to the machines capability may need to have you pull down on the cast on
comb every few rows so you are sure all of the stitches are knitting off.
To steam some yarns creates a soft fabric that drapes and is sometimes referred to as
‘killing’ the yarn. Once you have done this there is no going back to what you had before
so really be sure this is what you want for the end fabric.
Keep all of your notes with your swatch in a swatch book you are creating.
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REMINDER: To find out what technique you want to use, make a swatch over 20
needles to determine if the yarn and the technique are working together.
Larger swatches can be made to get the gauge after you know which technique you are
going to do.
You can knit to the right of the center when you are doing these swatches to help you
with save time and energy if you are using more than one eyelet and need to keep
changing
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Chapter 9: Your Next Steps
Because of the choices of what you can do I recommend that you start with one area
and increase your confidence by building on your knowledge base.
Start without the console and get the feel of the machine first before you launch into a
project that you are not clear about doing. Start simple and then move to more complex.
When you do start programming your console select one stitch pattern and do all of the
knit techniques that can be added to it. Try solid colors and then advance into 2 colors,
then to 3 colors, then to 4 colors.
Separate your knitting swatch with the different patterns and techniques with a contrast
color so you can clearly see the end result and put a label on it for future reference.
Using the example of a cookbook, the strip of your stitch patterns and techniques acts
like a cookbook so you can make a decision about what you want to do without
spending half of the time you have to knit trying to get to what you want to do for that
knitting session.
Machine knitting takes perseverance and determination so keep at it until you get the
results that you hoped you would get when you decided to begin on this journey.
I have a member site where I do 3 weeks of content about a specific topic and on week
4 I do a recorded webinar/video pulling all of the information together so you can learn
to build on your skills as a knitter more quickly. You have access to the materials on
your time schedule and can review the materials as often as you need for it to click for
you. You can find more information at http://www.passapknitter.com/members
If you want to take a free mini-course about knitting on the Passap you can find that at
http://www.passapknitter.com Put in your name and email address in the opt in box.
Or if you prefer video instruction about garments and how to use your machine easily to
get fabulous items to wear, you can find that at http://www.esix.knittingtofit.com Look
under monthly to get a video per month or under individual to select the garments you
prefer by the picture with the explanation of the item.
My goal has been to help you become more familiar with your machine, gain
confidence, build your skill and stretch your yarn exploration and choices.
Happy Knitting,
Marjorie J McDonald
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