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BROW BUSINESS

Long-Term Effects of Microblading To Consider


Before You Commit
Yes, microbladed brows look incredible. But, as with any type of tattoo, the procedure comes with its own
set of risks.

BY OLIVIA MUENTER, EMILY REKSTIS, AND ANNIE BLAY


July 21, 2023

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Photographed by @fauxeverbeauty. Design by Bella Geraci.

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Over the past few years, it has become more and more common to give our arches an artificial boost
that lasts much longer than your average pencil. Enter, microbladed eyebrows.
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Microblading is the process of applying tiny, semipermanent tattoos to the brow area to mimic the
look of individual hairs. The result can be perfectly shaped, fuller-looking brows that you don't have
to fill in daily to maintain the trendy look.

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Microblading and other eyebrow treatments, like brow tinting and lamination, continue to grow in
popularity as people restore brows they overplucked in the ’90s. And even though thin brows have
made a subtle comeback (along with low-rise jeans), the wave of semipermanent eyebrow
treatments doesn't seem to be going anywhere anytime soon.

The added fullness and wake-up-and-go ease of microbladed brows are part of why they are
incredibly popular. Microblading is now so mainstream that finding a skilled, certified professional
to perform the treatment in almost any location isn't very difficult.

The immediate cosmetic effects of microblading are broadly advertised, but the long-term effects
and possible risks aren't typically talked about — or, at least, not as often. These risks include
infection, allergic reactions, and misshapen brows that can't be fixed overnight, if at all.
Microblading is, after all, a cosmetic tattoo that takes hours to create and over a month to heal,
which means it's even more important to understand the big picture before booking your first
appointment.

Meet the experts:

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Diana Menendez is the owner of threading and microblading studio Accentuated in


Scottsdale, Arizona.
Hadley King, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
Jeffrey Fromowitz, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton, Florida.
Caren Campbell, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco.
Shaughnessy Otsuji is a restorative tattoo artist at Studio Sashiko in Vancouver, Canada and
Los Angeles.
Joey Healy is a brow stylist and owner of Joey Healy Eyebrow Studio in New York City.

In this story:
What is microblading?
What is the microblading healing process?
How long does microblading last?
Microblading Before and After
Microblading Aftercare
What are the possible side effects of microblading?
Can you fix poor microblading results?
How much does microblading cost?
Is microblading worth it?

What is microblading?
Before we dive into the long- and short-term positive and negative effects of microblading, let's
break down exactly what microblading is and what it entails.
"Microblading is a form of cosmetic tattooing," explains restorative tattoo artist Shaughnessy Otsuji,
who's based in Vancouver and Los Angeles. "This technique uses a handheld tool consisting of
multiple fine needles to create the look of realistic hairlike strokes by implanting pigment beneath
the skin." For those with more sensitive skin, microshading brows may be a safer option.

The overall goal of microblading is to create a completely new, natural-looking set of eyebrows or
add some density to existing brows. Each treatment can take two to three hours, and achieving the
most natural-looking result depends on the client’s brow shape, color, and texture.

What is the microblading healing process?


It can take 10-14 days for the brow area to fully heal, says Otsuji. Brows will continue to lighten over
a six-week period, as your skin regenerates and naturally exfoliates.

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But even after the six-week mark, brow stylist Joey Healy explains, everyday factors such as sun
exposure can fade your brows more quickly than you might expect: "Your face gets a ton of sun,
even in the winter and cold climates, and it does degrade the ink faster.”

Healy continues, “The sun hitting your face will change the color of the ink to sometimes look
orangey, blue, and I've even seen pink." So even if your brows are completely healed, you may still
want to wear large sunglasses and a hat for extra protection.

How long does microblading last?


When done correctly by a trained professional, microblading should last up to a year, says Diana
Menendez, the owner of threading and microblading studio Accentuated in Scottsdale. After a year
you will most likely need a regular annual touch-up appointment to maintain original results.
Without these touch-ups, Menendez says, you will see the microbladed brows fade and eventually
disappear completely after about three years.

This timeline could be even shorter, though, if you use retinol, tretinoin (a synthetic vitamin A
medication that's used to treat acne), or do frequent chemical peels. Says Otsuji, "Glycolic acid,
microdermabrasion, and chemical face peel products should be kept away from the tattooed areas
even after they are healed as continued use could lighten the pigment."

New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, agrees that nixing these types
of products is beneficial for best results: "Avoiding exfoliation is prudent for extending the life of the
microblading."

Microblading Before and After

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Client of Faux Ever Beauty, a brow bar based in Illinois. @fauxeverbeauty


Microblading turned this client’s sparse brows into thick and full arches. Not only are the brows
fuller, they have a more defined shape and density.

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Client of Allure Microblading @alluremicroblading1

This before and after illustrates how microblading can completely transform the shape of your
brows.

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Client of Bowie Brows in Scarsdale, NY Jeanna Figliolia at Bowie Brows


At Bowie Brows in Scarsdale, NY, a client expressed that she wanted natural-looking brows that
didn’t appear to be tattooed on. Says Bowie Brows owner Jeanna Figliolia, “With the microblading
technique, we were able to create hyperrealistic hair strokes that mimicked her natural hair
pattern.”

Microblading Aftercare
"At Studio Sashiko, we instruct our clients to gently blot their brows every few hours for the first 48
hours to help remove any lymph fluid and excess oil," Otsuji says. "Patting the area dry afterward
will ensure the microblading will not have too much buildup or moisture on the surface. This
buildup can cause excessive scabbing, which we want to avoid."

Other aftercare instructions include avoiding sweating, swimming, and saunas. Otsuji reiterates that
keeping the area dry is important for the best results. She also notes that your brows will start to
peel and you’ll see some flaking around day three, but you should not pick or scratch at the area;
instead, apply a barrier cream for a boost of hydration and comfort.

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What are the possible side effects of microblading?


In addition to the risk of walking out post-treatment with brows that just don't look like your
inspiration photos, there's the more serious short-term possibility of infection. As Boca Raton,
Florida-based board-certified dermatologist Jeffrey Fromowitz, MD, says, if you experience
prolonged swelling, redness, crusting, or oozing after microblading, this is a sign that things are not
as they should be and you should see your doctor as soon as possible.

It's also important to point out that the impressive before-and-after photos you've probably seen on
social media don't depict the long-term effects of microblading. Though the treatment is
increasingly common, Dr. King tells Allure that there are always going to be risks of long-term
complications or allergic reactions because the process involves piercing the skin barrier.

"It's also important to note that the FDA does not regulate the color-additive substances of the
pigments used in microblading,” says Dr. King. “Allergic reactions and contamination are possible.
Because the results are semipermanent, it is particularly important to make sure that the procedure
is done correctly. It cannot be easily covered up if it is done incorrectly."

It is true that the microblading pigment will fade over time, but it's not possible to correct overnight
if a mistake is made.

Can you fix poor microblading results?


Fixing poorly microbladed brows comes at a cost. "Immediate removal is impossible and requires
expensive laser sessions," says San Francisco-based board-certified dermatologist Caren Campbell,
MD. "Picosecond lasers provide the best removal results."
Picosecond lasers are the same pigment-seeking lasers used to remove traditional tattoos, and a
session usually costs between $300 and $1,000. Dr. Campbell says she doesn't recommend
microblading cosmetically due to the maintenance required and the fact that, as Dr. King has also
pointed out, getting new brows immediately is not feasible.

Makeup can help improve the appearance of microblading, even after a treatment has been
performed correctly. Says Healy, his clients with microbladed brows often have to use brow
products afterward: "We find that we're giving clients a lot of brow powder to mask discoloration
and to even out some wacky things that happen."

It's clear that many people who get microbladed brows are happy with the experience — this writer,
for one. But Healy’s number one concern about the long-term effects of microblading (other than
the possibility of discoloration) is that trends don't last forever. "Right now we're helping people
recover from the '90s-thin eyebrows." Microblading isn't a fleeting fix, he warns: "You are married to
this shape. This isn't a lash extension; it is a face tattoo, and there is no way around it. It's a

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commitment. Bold brows are in now. They can very well get thinner again, and you're stuck with
this shape."

How much does microblading cost?


If you are happy with your microblading results, you'll probably want to make sure your brows look
as full as possible for as long as possible. Microblading is expensive: Most sessions cost between
$400 to $1,400, depending on whether it's your first application or a touch-up.

Is microblading worth it?


With all of this in mind, you have to determine whether the microblading procedure is worth it for
you. Frustrating long-term effects like discoloration or misshapen brows are far from the typical
experience with microblading, but it is important to do exhaustive research before choosing the
right professional to microblade your brows.

Regulations for who is authorized to perform microblading vary from state to state, but Dr. King
always advises people to look for a licensed aesthetician with accreditation from the American
Academy of Micropigmentation or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals because they
are likely to have more training.

And remember, if you don't feel comfortable with a three-year commitment, you can just opt for a
brow pencil instead. (Here are a few brow pens with a microblading effect.)

Read more about tattoos:

Everything You Need to Know About Permanent Makeup


What It's Like to Get a Tattoo for the First Time
What It's Like to Get a "Made to Fade" Ephemeral Tattoo

Now watch someone get microblading for the first time:

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WATCH
Microblading My Brows For The First Time | I've Never Tried

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things beauty.

Written by Allure Staff

KEYWORDS EYEBROWS BROWS TATTOOS TATTOO MICROBLADING DERMATOLOGISTS

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