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Textbook A Field Guide To Cape Cod Including Nantucket Marthas Vineyard Block Island and Eastern Long Island Patrick J Lynch Ebook All Chapter PDF
Textbook A Field Guide To Cape Cod Including Nantucket Marthas Vineyard Block Island and Eastern Long Island Patrick J Lynch Ebook All Chapter PDF
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A Field Guide to
CAPE COD
CAPE COD
Including Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard, Block Island,
& Eastern Long Island
PATRICK J. LYNCH
All illustrations, maps, & photography by
the author unless otherwise noted
coastfieldguides.com
Printed in China.
ISBN 978-0-300-22615-7
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
—Henry Beston
ix Acknowledgments
xi Preface
1 Introduction
73 Environmental History
109 Beaches
267 Freshwater
421 Index
During many trips to Cape Cod and the Outer Lands over the past 40 years I have benefit-
ed from the good company and deep birding and natural history expertise of Frank Gallo.
Thanks, Frank, for all the great times and for always remembering to hit the Portuguese
Bakery for goodies before our whale-watching trips.
I’d like to thank Patrick Comins, executive director of Connecticut Audubon, for his great
advice and thorough review on my Field Guide to Long Island Sound, much of which also
informs this book.
I thank Ralph Lewis, professor of geology at the University of Connecticut Avery Point
campus, and former State Geologist of Connecticut. Ralph went above and beyond in
sharing his expertise on New England’s complex geologic history. Professor of geology J.
Bret Bennington of Hofstra University generously gave me permission to use his excellent
digital elevation map of Long Island. Geoimaging expert Paul Illsley graciously allowed
me to use his magnificent bathymetry map of the Gulf of Maine.
I offer particular thanks to Jean Thomson Black, executive editor for life sciences at Yale
University Press, for her faith in my work over the years and for being my constant advo-
cate at the Press. I also thank the manuscript editor on this project, Laura Jones Dooley,
for her wisdom, expertise, and guidance on almost every page here.
Last, and most of all, I thank my teacher, mentor, and friend, the late Noble Proctor, for
his 43 years of wise counsel, for countless days of great birding and whale watching, and
for introducing me and so many other Southern Connecticut State University students to
the natural wonders of Cape Cod. I know that I and Noble’s hundreds of friends through-
out the world miss his good humor, sharp eyes, and awesome breadth of knowledge about
the natural world. This book would not exist without Noble’s wisdom and support.
PATRICK J. LYNCH
North Haven, Connecticut
coastfieldguides.com
@patrlynch
https://www.facebook.com/patrick.lynch1
patrlynch1@gmail.com
A young Herring Gull over a feeding Humpback Whale at Stellwagen Bank, off the northern
tip of Cape Cod. The gulls feed on fish scraps left by the whales and are in little danger.
This book is a general introduction to the natural history of the ocean-facing coasts of
southeastern New England and Long Island, with an emphasis on environments, not on
particular locations. Although my focus is on the plants, animals, and physical founda-
tions of this region, you cannot write about the natural world these days without constant
reference to the effects of humanity and anthropogenic climate change. We live in the
Anthropocene Epoch: human activity has become the dominant force that shapes our
physical and biological environment.
The geologic and human history of our region also reminds us that we live on shifting
ground. Sea level rise and shifting coastlines are nothing new, but the accelerating pace of
climate change in the past 50 years has altered both our shorelines and the life around the
region. Many of our southeastern New England lobster fisheries are dwindling because
the waters are too warm for the Northern Lobster. Many formerly abundant food fish like
the Atlantic Cod are endangered due to overfishing. Formerly southern birds like Turkey
Vultures and Black Vultures are year-round residents, and the rising waters of the Atlantic
not only shrink the habitats of beach-nesting birds like the Piping Plover but threaten the
salt marsh meadows that are the breeding habitat for the Saltmarsh Sparrow and other
endangered species.
This guide cannot be an exhaustive catalog of everything that lives in or near the shores of
this region—such a book would be neither practical as a field guide nor very useful to the
typical hiker, birder, kayaker, fisher, or boater. Here I have emphasized the most dominant
and common plants and animals, plus a few interesting rarities like the Snowy Owl and
locally threatened species like the Least Tern and the Piping Plover. My intent is to show
you the major plants and animals that populate our shorelines and waters, so that you can
walk into a salt marsh or onto a beach and be able to identify most of what you see, the
first step in developing a deeper, more ecological understanding of the unique and beauti-
ful aspects of the Outer Lands’ major environments.
Useful companions to this guide
For readers interested in more information on the human history and environmental
challenges facing this region, I highly recommend John T. Cumbler’s Cape Cod: An Envi-
ronmental History of a Fragile Ecosystem as a companion to this guide. No one has written
better on the soul of Cape Cod than Henry Beston in The Outermost House, but Robert
Finch’s recent The Outer Beach: A Thousand-Mile Walk on Cape Cod’s Atlantic Shore comes
very close.
For recommendations on detailed field guides to specific topics such as plants, wildflow-
ers, geology, birding, insects, and other wildlife, please consult the Bibliography.
495
BOSTON
90
72°W
128
495
90
95
395
91 MASSACHUSETTS
MASSACHUSETTS
42°N
CONNECTICUT
RHODE ISLAND 495
295
PROVIDENCE
195
295 95
395
95
RHODE ISLAND
CONNECTICUT
4
NARRAGANSETT
BAY
395 114
4
138
138
Newport
95
Co
Th am e s R i v e r
nn
1 Sakonnet
ec
Point
tic
ut
1
Ri
ve
New
London
95
50
95 Fishers Is. Sound Watch Hill Pt.
Fishers Is.
BLOCK
The Race ISLAND
SOUND Block 100
Island
Great Gull Is. 140
Montauk
Mattituck
41°N
Sag Harbor
GREAT 160
PECONIC
BAY
Sagaponack 72°W
Shinnecock Inlet
Fire Island
National Seashore
Boston 120
Harbor 280 500
BOSTON 200
MASSACHUSETTS
BAY Stellwagen Basin
100
70°W
93
128 71°W
STELLWAGEN
3 Cedar Pt. BANK
60
95 190
3 Race Point
200
Provincetown
Duxbury Bay 6
2°N Long Point 42°N
495
PLYMOUTH BAY Truro
Plymouth 100
Wellfleet
Manomet
Point CAPE COD
BAY
Billingsgate
Shoal
495 3
50 Eastham
6
195 Cape Cod Canal CAPE COD Nauset
Beach
Sandy Neck
28 6 6A
r
Pleasant
B ar n s tab l e H a r
bo 6A Bay
Barnstable 6
Chatham
Chatham
195 Harbor
Chatham
28
Hyannis
Roads
BUZZARDS
NSETT Port
BAY Monomoy Bearse
114
Horseshoe Island Shoals
Woods Hole Shoal 40
10
Nobska Pt. Pollock Rip 80
Naushon Is. NANTUCKET Channel
Newport N DS SOUND
IS LA Vineyard Oak Bluffs
Sakonnet TH Haven
40 BE Cape Pogue
ZA
Point ELI
Cuttyhunk Is. Great Point
VINEYARD Edgartown Great Round
SOUND Chappaquiddick Is. 30 Shoal Channel
Gay Head Nantucket
Martha’s Muskeget Is.
Vineyard Wasque Nantucket
Tuckernut Is.
Southwest Shoal
Shoals
Siasconset
50
100 Old Man
20
Noman’s Land Island Shoal
National Wildlife Refuge
100 NANTUCKET
Coxes SHOALS
Ledge
71°W
10
Old South
Shoal
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 North
50
MILES
41°N 41°N
0 10 20 30 40 50
70°W
KILOMETERS
15
200 100
Introduction
Stellwagen Bank, one of the world’s best whale-watching areas, is a short distance off the northern tip of
Cape Cod. Here a Humpback Whale rolls its tail at the beginning of a deep dive.
Boston
MASSACHUSETTS
Provincetown
Nantucket
Sound
seascapes are the sand and clay cliffs of Montauk, Mohegan The earthen cliffs above Lecount
Bluffs on Block Island, the colorful cliffs of Aquinnah on Hollow Beach, Wellfleet. The cliffs
here erode back about three feet
Martha’s Vineyard, and the 18-mile stretch of cliffs above the per year, mostly due to winter
Outer Beach of Cape Cod. But as dramatic as the cliffs can be storms.
close up, none rise more than 150 feet above the sea, and all
are composed of soft sands, silts, and clays whose edges lose
on average three horizontal feet per year to the waves of the
winter Atlantic seas.
The Outer Lands sit within the larger context of the Gulf of
Maine, the New York Bight, and the Western Atlantic Ocean.
The Hudson Canyon south of Long Island, the Nantucket
Shoals, Georges Bank, and Stellwagen Bank are justly famous
for the rich variety of sea life they harbor and sustain, even
after centuries of overfishing and whaling. In deeper waters at
the edge of the continental slope, a New England Coral Can-
yons and Seamounts Marine Sanctuary has been proposed
Downwind
Warm summer winds
from the southwest
Outer
Cape
(also sometimes called
Lower Cape, but
Upwind not in this book)
“Going up Cape”
Lower
Cape
Upper Cape Mid-Cape
A Pitch Pine on the edge of the eroding cliffs above Marconi Beach, Wellfleet.
Of all the forces that come together to create a landscape, time Dune ridge and an interdune
is the hardest to grasp. Glacial ice, meltwater, ocean waves, swale at Sandy Neck, Barnstable.
Large sand dunes like these are
and wind formed the surface geography of the Outer Lands, created primarily by strong winter
but to truly understand this landscape you must remember winds that drive sand inland from
how young this land is, and how recently—at least by geologic beaches and sandspits. Dune sand
standards—the dramatic events that shaped the Cape and is lighter in color and weight and
finer in texture than beach sand
Islands unfolded. If New England’s 500-million-year geologic because it is composed mostly
history were the equivalent of a 24-hour day, all the major of small grains of light-colored
events in the formation of the Cape and Islands landscape quartz that are easily moved by
would take place in the last five seconds before midnight. the wind.
Twenty thousand years ago the land that became Cape Cod
was a low ridge of glacial rubble several hundred miles north
of the Atlantic Coast, supporting sparse patches of arctic tun-
dra vegetation. Half-buried chunks of ice as big as city blocks
were scattered across the terrain, melting over hundreds of
years to become lakes and ponds. Today’s Georges Bank was a
huge forested peninsula that extended several hundred miles
into the North Atlantic Ocean. Mountains of glacial ice 2,000
feet tall stood on the northern horizon. The sea level was
more than 300 feet lower than today, and to the south of to-
day’s Outer Lands a vast expanse of northern forest and open
tundra covered what is now the continental shelf. Mammoths,
Mastodons, Dire Wolves, and giant Musk Oxen roamed a
landscape that today lies deep under the ocean.
It takes imagination and a perspective far beyond the scale
of a human lifetime to see the events of 20,000 years ago as
both long ago and relatively sudden and recent. But knowing
the geologic history of the Outer Lands may give you a useful
Before the Quaternary glacial viewpoint on today’s concerns about rising sea levels, a warm-
periods, New England had a ing planet, and our rapidly changing coastal environment.
coastal plain and low, sandy
shores that resembled what we Forming the Cape and Islands
see along the mid-Atlantic Coast A defining characteristic of the Outer Lands is the lack of
today. This view is from Currituck
Sound, on the Outer Banks of
exposed bedrock or rocky shores. We know few details about
North Carolina. the rocky underpinnings of the Outer Lands because the
bedrock is buried so deeply beneath ancient coastal plain
sediments, as well as by much more recent surface sediment
layers created by multiple glacial periods. The bedrock in the
Long Island and Cape Cod areas generally slopes toward the
southeast. On Cape Cod the bedrock is on average about 300
feet below surface level, and on Nantucket the bedrock is be-
tween 1,500 and 1,800 feet below ground level. On the North
Shore of Long Island the bedrock is about 300 feet deep, and
under Fire Island the bedrock is over 1,500 feet below ground
level.
The bedrock foundation
The Outer Lands’ geologic history begins about 500–300
million years ago, when the process of plate tectonics brought
together most of the world’s ancient landmasses into a
supercontinent called Pangaea. As the continents crushed
together to form Pangaea, the bedrock that was much later to
underlie New England and Long Island was heated, folded,
and faulted into a complex series of north-south-oriented
valleys and hills. This north-south pattern of hills and valleys
would later play an important part in the development of riv-
ers in New England and in the human history of the region.
The enormous heat and stress of the continental collisions
created or modified much of the exposed bedrock we see
today along the northern coastline of Long Island Sound in
Connecticut, the Rhode Island shoreline around Narragansett
Trim into well-shaped cutlets, which should not be very thin, the
remains of a roast loin or neck of mutton, or of a quite underdressed
stewed or boiled joint; dip them into egg and well-seasoned bread-
crumbs, and broil or fry them over a quick fire that they may be
browned and heated through without being too much done. This is a
very good mode of serving a half roasted loin or neck. When the
cutlets are broiled they should be dipped into, or sprinkled thickly
with butter just dissolved, or they will be exceedingly dry; a few
additional crumbs should be made to adhere to them after they are
moistened with this.
MUTTON KIDNEYS À LA FRANÇAISE. (ENTRÉE.)
Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and without opening
them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew over them a large
dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two-thirds should be
parsley and the remainder thyme, with a tolerable seasoning of
pepper or cayenne, and some fine salt. Melt two ounces of butter in
a frying-pan, put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both
sides; when nearly done, stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of
flour and shake them well in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of
gravy (or of hot water in default of this), the juice of half a lemon, and
as much of Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will flavour
the whole pleasantly; bring these to the point of boiling, and pour
them into a dish garnished with fried sippets, or lift out the kidneys
first, give the sauce a boil and pour it on them. In France, a couple of
glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, are frequently added
to this dish: one of port wine can be substituted for either of these. A
dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may be strewed over the
kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of very small ones previously
stewed until tender in fresh butter over a gentle fire, may be added
after they are dished. This is a very excellent and approved receipt.
Fried 6 minutes.
BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS.
Split them open lengthwise without dividing them, strip off the skin
and fat, run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of
the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling, season them with pepper
or cayenne, lay them over a clear brisk fire, with the cut sides
towards it, turn them in from four to five minutes, and in as many
more dish, and serve them quickly, with or without a cold Maître
d’Hôtel sauce under them. French cooks season them with pepper
and fine salt, and brush a very small quantity of oil or clarified butter
over them before they are broiled: we think this an improvement.
8 to 10 minutes.
OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS. (BREAKFAST DISH,
OR ENTRÉE.)
This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and plentifully
basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready for table;
but though it requires quick roasting, it must never be placed
sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat, which is very liable to
catch or burn. When the joint is served, the shoulder should be
separated from the ribs with a sharp knife; and a small slice of fresh
butter, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon juice should be laid
between them; if the cook be an expert carver, this had better be
done before the lamb is sent to table. The cold Maître d’Hôtel sauce
of Chapter VI. may be substituted for the usual ingredients, the
parsley being omitted or not, according to the taste. Serve good mint
sauce, and a fresh salad with this roast.
A leg, shoulder, or loin of lamb should be cooked by the same
directions as the quarter, a difference only being made in the time
allowed for each.
Fore quarter of lamb, 1-3/4 to 2 hours. Leg, 1-1/2 hour (less if very
small); shoulder, 1 to 1-1/4 hour.
Obs.—The time will vary a little, of course, from the difference in
the weather, and in the strength of the fire. Lamb should always be
well roasted.
SADDLE OF LAMB.
Wash the joint, and wipe it very dry; skewer down the flap, and lay
it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan or saucepan, in which three
ounces of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed to
boil; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two hours and a
quarter, and turn it when it is rather more than half done. Lift it out,
skim and pour the gravy over it; send asparagus, cucumber, or
soubise sauce to table with it; or brown gravy, mint sauce, and a
salad.
2-1/4 hours.
LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SOUBISE SAUCE.
(ENTRÉE.)
Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same
way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of
time, and an additional spoonful of liquid.
CUTLETS OF COLD LAMB.
Pork.
No.
1. The Spare Rib.
2. Hand.
3. Belly, or Spring.
4. Fore Loin.
5. Hind Loin.
6. Leg.
Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-fed pig;
slice it small and thin; put it into a new or well-scalded jar, set it into a
pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a clear fire. As it
dissolves, strain it into small stone jars or deep earthen pans, and
when perfectly cold, tie over it the skin that was cleared from the
lard, or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped
very dry. Lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour, and keeps
perfectly well if stored in a cool place; it may be used with advantage
in making common pastry, as well as for frying fish, and for various
other purposes. It is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart
from that which is first poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in
quality.
TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTHS.