INTRODUCTION TO COSMETIC ENGINEERING

CƠ SỞ KỸ THUẬT MỸ PHẨM

Chapter 4: Types of cosmetics (1)

Chương 2: Các dạng mỹ phẩm (1)

Assoc.Prof. Nhan Le
University of Technology-VNU-HCM

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2024
General

Basic cosmetic products for:

• Skin

• Lip

• Eyes

• Nail

• Teeth

• Hair

• Body

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Cosmetics for skin

The purposes of use of basic

1. Cosmetics for skin cleansing
cosmetics include :

① Achieve cleanliness of the skin, 2. Tonner

② Maintain the oil-moisture balance of 3. Lotion

the skin,
4. Cream
③ Promote skin metabolism, and
5. Essence (serum)
④ Protect skin from against harmful
environment 6. Pack & mask

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Cosmetics for skin
Cosmetics for skin cleansing

Purpose of use and function

• Removing dirt, sebum, sweat, sebum oxides and dead skin cells attached
to the skin surface

• Removing contaminants from makeup cosmetics

=> Maintaining the cleanliness of the skin

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Cosmetics for skin
Cosmetics for skin cleansing

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Cosmetics for skin
Cosmetics for skin cleansing

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Cosmetics for skin
Toner

• To clean the skin ▪ Softening

• To supply moisture ▪ Astringent
• To restore the pH of the skin ▪ Cleansing
• To tidy the skin

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Cosmetics for skin
Toner

Toners may be classified into two types:

• Transparent type
✓ Solubilization type
✓ Microemulsion type
• Multi-layer type
There is also an oil form that looks white in appearance.

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Cosmetics for skin
Toner
① Form of solubilization
flavoring or oil-soluble ingredients are dissolved in micelles of the system using a
solubilizing agent => solubilizing agent more than necessary can cause stickiness and
skin irritation.
② Microemulsion type
• More oily ingredients than solubilized form, so the softening effect is high.
• With a relatively small amount of surfactant => a gray to bluish-white translucent
appearance; a low-viscosity lotion in a highly moist form with a cream-like texture; a
non-sticky, refreshing lotion with a new texture.
Multi-layer type
A two-layer separation type in which the upper layer is a liquid oily components and the
powder is settled.
More oil than general lotion, extremely small surfactant => not irritating to the skin
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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

Lack of oil and moisture in the stratum corneum => Dryness or cracking of the skin
==> Supplying moisturizer, and oil to make the skin moist and flexible

Function:
• To maintain the oil-moisture balance of the skin
• To promote blood circulation, cleansing, and removing makeup by using the
characteristics of product.

Classification based on function and composition

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

Cream:
• An emulsion of water and heavy oily ingredients
• Various oils and waxes are used, and stability is good
• A semi-solid emulsion with high viscosity and no fluidity => it is difficult to
absorb into the skin.
Lotion
• An emulsion of water and light oily ingredients; low oil content
• A fluidity emulsion => Easily to absorb into the skin.

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

Lotion
• Oil content of lotion is less than 20%
• Consists of oil, purified water, aqueous ingredients such as moisturizers,
surfactants, preservatives, chelating agents, fragrances, etc.
• Structure: O/W or W/O

O/W emulsion: a semi-permeable film is formed after moisture evaporates=> a

fresh feeling of use.
W/O emulsion: a protective oil film on the skin => an excellent moisturizing
effect.
In the case of W/ O type, W/S (silicone oil) => reduce sticky and heavy feeling
and increase durability of moisturizing effect
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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

- Loại nhũ : O/W, W/O

- Hàm lượng pha dầu : % pha dầu trong sản phẩm

- Thành phần pha dầu : số lượng các chất trong pha dầu

- Hàm lượng pha nước : % pha nước trong sản phẩm

- Thành phần pha nước : số lượng pha nước trong pha nước

- Chất nhũ hoá : loại chất nhũ hoá thích hợp

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

Kem/Cream Lotion Serum

Kem gel/Gel cream Gel Serum

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Cosmetics for skin
Oils
Cream & lotion Water

Gelling
polymer
• A transparent or translucent appearance or
creamy
• Water-based gel contains a large amount of water
=> moisturizing and cooling effect on the skin
Gel/gel cream

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Cosmetics for skin
Essence (serum)

Essence: a product that provides more intensive moisturizing and beauty effects
Serum = the most important component of blood => meaning that it is a product
that concentrates important ingredients in cosmetics

• Transparent or translucent formulation

• Fluidity like a lotion
• Containing special active ingredients in high concentration
=> also called as a serum or essence
=> formulation primarily used in functional cosmetics.

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Cosmetics for skin
Essence (serum)

• Classified into transparent, translucent, and opaque forms

• Main components:
✓ Solubilizing oils
✓ Functional ingredients
✓ Fragrances
✓ Moisturizers
✓ Water-soluble polymer
✓ Water & other additives
Structure: microemulsion or oil type using reverse micelles, transparent gel and
emulsion.

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Cosmetics for skin
Essence (serum)

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion
Kem: Nhũ bán rắn, sệt, thành phần nặng nên khó thấm da.

Lotion: Cấu trúc tương tự kem nhưng lỏng. Hàm lượng dầu ít nên nhẹ
hơn. Dễ thấm vào da.

Gel cream: dùng polymer để giảm nhũ hóa, dạng lotion đục sữa.

Gel: nhũ tương chứa ‘O/W‘ và rất ít dầu. Có một số thành phần alcohol
(hoặc không)

Serum: nền tảng là nước, loại bỏ dầu (hoặc rất ít). Chứa các thành phần
hoạt tính cao như vitamin, chiết xuất, ...

=> Sử dụng polymer để tạo đặc hoặc tạo cấu trúc “treo”
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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion

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Cosmetics for skin
Cream & lotion & essence

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Cosmetics for skin
Pack & mask

A type of preparation that is applied to the skin and left for a certain period of time
to allow the contained moisture and nutrients to be absorbed into the skin, and
then removed or washed off.
Applied to the specific skin areas such as the nose, neck, musters, arms, and legs
as well as the face, and body parts applied to the whole body.

=> It is the most used cosmetic product due to its simple usability and excellent
efficacy.

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 Cosmetics for skin
Pack & mask
Function:
(1) Moisturization
The moisturizers contained in pack formulations keep moisture in the skin, making the
stratum corneum moist and flexible.
(2) Purification
• Removing dirt, sebum, and dead skin cells on the skin surface => an excellent
cleaning effect
• Peel-off type: packs that are removed after forming a film on the skin surface
-> removing old dead skin cells; may have side effects on sensitive skin.
• Wash-off type: product that is washed off with water.
(3) Blood circulation promoting
In the process of drying, it gives a moderate sense of tension to the skin and
temporarily raises the skin temperature after drying to promote blood circulation.
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Cosmetics for skin
Pack & mask

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Cosmetics for skin
Pack & mask

• Peel-off type packs: polymer ingredients such as polyvinyl alcohol,

polyvinylpyrrolidone, cellulose derivatives, and xanthan gum
• Wash-off or tissue-off type clay packs: kaolin, clay
• Sheet-type packs: the material of the gel or non-woven fabric (polymer gel,
cotton, cellulose, and collagen)

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

• Applied to the body such as the face and nails to give a sense of color to
express skin color => beautifully changing the appearance and making it look
attractive.
• Classified into:
① Base make-up: Makes the skin color uniform and covers skin defects
such as spots and freckles to give a healthy and attractive skin.
② Point make-up: Partially used on the lips, around the eyes, cheeks,
nails, etc., => enhancing complexion and expresses a three-dimensional
effect to change into a beautiful and attractive appearance.

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

Requirements:
① Makeup effect
② Colors
③ Usability:
✓ Feel good when applied and be easy to remove makeup;
✓ Containers and application tools suitable for the shape of the product
• ④ Stability
• ⑤ Safety

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

• Oil-based ingredients : liquid paraffin, waxes, squalane, silicone oil, synthetic

• esters, etc.
• Water-based ingredients : Moisturizers such as glycerin and propylene glycol,
• thickeners, purified water, etc.
• Powders: has the greatest influence on the function and cosmetic effect of color
cosmetics
• Others: Preservatives, surfactants, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances,
etc.

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics- Powder

(1) Concealment (coverage)

Concealment is the ability to cover skin defects such as spots and freckles when
using color cosmetics.
(2) Colorability
Yellow, red, and black iron oxides and titanium dioxide are the most commonly
used.
(3) Spreadability (extensibility)
• Related to the dynamic friction coefficient of the powder;
• Help product spreads well and gives a smooth feel

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics- Powder
(4) Adhesion
• Small diameter of powder particles => good adhesion => the persistence of the
makeup state
• good adhesion: titanium dioxide, iron oxide, kaolin, by mica and talc.
(5) Absorbency
• As the powder absorbs sebum and sweat
• Kaolin, calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), and magnesium carbonate (MgCO₃) have
excellent absorbency
• Porous powders such as silica beads and cellulose powder are also absorbent
powders.
(6) UV protection
While titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have excellent UV protection capabilities,
micronized forms of these powders to 0.03㎛ or less are used to maximize UV
protection and minimize whitening on the skin when used. 37
Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics
Base makeup is a product used on the entire face to correct or adjust skin tone
by covering moles, acne scars, melasma, pores, etc., and to hide skin greasiness
caused by oil or sweat, making the skin smooth and refreshing. to be.

Base make-up
1) Powder makeup
Face powder
Compact powder
Paper powder
Kneaded powder 3) Foundation

Baby powder Foundation

2) Powder foundation Make-up base

Powder foundation Blemish balm (BB) cream

Two way cake Primer

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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

Point make-up is used on a specific area to be emphasized in order to look

healthy and beautiful for a three-dimensional face

Point make-up
1) Lip
• Lipstick 3) Blusher

• Lip liner 4) Nail makeup

• Lip gloss
2) Eyes
• Eye liner
• Eye shadow
• Mascara
• Two way cake
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Cosmetics for skin
Color cosmetics

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Cosmetics for lip

• The stratum corneum is thin

• The natural moisturizing factor is low
• there are no sweat glands and very few sebaceous glands

=> The lip skin is easily dry and rough

Function:
• Preventing the lips from cracking due to dryness.
• Preventing invasion of bacteria through cracks.
• Giving a color effect to the lips to make them look healthy and beautiful.
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Cosmetics for lip

• Lipstick is a product used by almost all adult women living in society and
used by a large number of teenagers, and products showing numerous
colors and various surface glosses are being developed and are essential
color cosmetics.
• Lipstick is essential in the form of a stick of oil-wax base, and is made by
dispersing pigment (dye, lake) in oil and adding an appropriate amount of
fragrance.

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Cosmetics for eyes
Eye shadow

• Beautify the eye area by combining various colors;

• To shade to give a three-dimensional effect and to emphasize the beauty of
the eyes.
• Classified by: cream type, stick type, powder type, and cake type.

Requirement:
① It must be easy to apply, have adhesion, spreadability, and continuity
② No color change must occur.
③ It must not spread by sweat or sebum.
④ There must be no stimulation.

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Cosmetics for eyes
Eye liner

• Adjusting the shape of the eyes by drawing a thin line just above the
eyelashes to clarify the outline of the eyes
• Classified by:
✓ emulsion type and water-soluble resin added
✓ pencil and a cake-shaped mascara

Requirement:
① No stimulation must occur.
② It must dry quickly and be easy to draw.
③ The film must be flexible.
④ It must not peel, smear or crack over time.
⑤ It must have adequate water resistance.
⑥ Contents must not sink or clump.
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Cosmetics for eyes
Eyebrow

• To trim or pluck eyebrows and then shape them into beautiful shapes and
adjust the color of eyebrows
• Classified by:
✓ Pencil, mechanical pencil type
✓ Powder solid type
✓ Liquid type

Requirement:
① It must be drawn evenly with a soft touch on the skin.
② Clear and fine lines must be drawn.
③ It must be long lasting and no discoloration of makeup must occur.
④ It must have a high safety for skin.
⑤ It must not be sweaty, powdery, not broken or messy.

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Cosmetics for eyes
Mascara
• Applied to the eyelashes to make the eyebrows look thicker
• Classified by:
✓ Oil-based type : Color pigment is mixed with volatile isoparaffin and wax
is suspended.
✓ Emulsion type : The O/W type has excellent usability, but the W/O type
is applied to products with water-proof function.

Requirement:
① No side effects must occur.
② It must not come off or come off easily because it has good adhesion.
③ It must dry relatively quickly after use.
④ It must have the effect of making the eyelashes look longer and thicker.
⑤ Good curling effect must occcur.
⑥ Contents must not sink or clump. 46