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i
F R I D AY S O F R A G E
ii
iii
FRIDAYS OF RAGE
Al Jazeera, the Arab Spring,
and Political Islam
Sam Cherribi
1
iv
1
Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford. It furthers
the University’s objective of excellence in research, scholarship, and education
by publishing worldwide. Oxford is a registered trade mark of Oxford University
Press in the UK and certain other countries.
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed by Sheridan Books, Inc., United States of America
v
CONTENTS
List of Figures ix
Preface: Arab Revolutions on Demand xi
Acknowledgments xix
Notes 279
References 285
Index 295
ix
LIST OF FIGURES
x • List of Figures
P R E FA C E : A R A B R E V O L U T I O N S O N D E M A N D
The first olive tree on the way south marks the beginning of the Mediterranean
region and the first palm grove the end.
—Fernand Braudel (1995)
On Friday, all honorable Egyptians must come out to give me a mandate to end terrorism
and violence.
—General Abdul-Fattah el-Sisi (Al Jazeera, July 24, 2013)
xii • Preface
termed in Morocco les années de plomb (years of lead). This represented the brutal-
ity of the minister of interior, Ahmed Basri. The city of Kenitra, where the profes-
sor who shouted “Athawra!” came from, was famous for its dissidents and multiple
unsuccessful coup d’états. Originating from a former US military base, the city had
one of the largest and harshest prisons in Africa, built by the French colonial rulers.
The late 1970s and the 1980s were an era of two converging processes, politi-
cal repression and a piecemeal Arabization that remains incomplete today. The
latter process included the dismantling of the institution of French liberal educa-
tion. Throughout public life, French language was replaced with Arabic. These
two processes may have created the conditions for the emergence of political
Islam. The repressive tactics and crackdown on leftist activists slowed down secu-
lar progress and removed any viable alternative to counter political Islam as an
emerging antiestablishment configuration. In eviscerating liberal institutions it
saw as a threat, the Moroccan government left in its place a scorched earth where
the seeds of political Islam would grow.
The word athawra, “revolution,” had been appropriated previously by the
Arab regimes that followed postwar independence. There was thawra-t-al uruba
(revolution of pan-Arabism) in Egypt; thawra-al-khadra (green revolution) in
Libya; a-thwra-t-al malik wa-sha’ab (revolution of king and people) in Morocco;
and athawra hata nasr (revolution until victory) in Palestine.1 The word “revolu-
tion,” in the Arab world, has had a number of meanings over the years. In order
to analyze the revolutionary landscape in the Arab world of the early 2010s—its
genesis and its metaphorical, hidden, and overt expressions—we should connect
meanings to events as framed by the media and manipulated by political and
social actors. There is no one-size-fits-all explanation for the failure of democ-
racy to bear fruit in the Arab world, since not all Arab countries are the same.
However, if democratic change continues to founder following the eruption
of the Arab Spring, the discontentment and disenchantment will settle into an
unstable, potentially explosive situation.
Since my departure from Morocco, where I was a student in the 1980s, the
country has changed a lot. I left to study in Europe and eventually settled in the
Netherlands. In 1994, I became a member of Dutch Parliament, where I served
two consecutive terms, representing the Netherlands at the Council of Europe,
the Assembly of the Western European Union, and the North-South Centre at
Lisbon. In 2003, I moved with my family to the United States to teach political
sociology at Emory University in Atlanta, the city of the dream and the dreamer.
I now work closely with the Martin Luther King Center and the Jimmy Carter
Center. These institutions serve as a source of inspiration and motivation for
my passion for the civil rights movement and democratic movements in devel-
oping nations. Despite my travels, I have never entirely left the Arab world.
xiii
Preface • xiii
I teach courses on political Islam, media and social movements, and the Arab
diaspora. I host frequent guests from Algeria, Saudi Arabia, UAE, Qatar, Jordan,
Israel, Egypt, Tunisia, Sudan, and Mauritania via Skype. In addition to return-
ing frequently to Morocco, I visit countries across the Maghreb, Mashreq, and
Khaleej. In 2007, I conducted the World Values Survey with Juan Díez Nicolàs of
Universidad Complutense de Madrid.?
During my most recent stay in Morocco, two phenomena struck me dramati-
cally. First was the visible Islamization, in terms of clothing and appearance (veils,
headscarves, bearded men) and the ubiquitous religious CD/DVD vendors stand-
ing behind small aluminum carts, equipped with boom boxes blasting the same
Saudi recitation of the Quran. The second striking change in the landscape was
the overwhelming number of West African immigrants. Just as northern Mexico
serves as the major terminal for traffic between Latin America and the United
States, Morocco has become a hub for transferring goods and people between
Africa and Europe, with a similarly attendant parallel economy, dominated by
narco-culture, passeurs (commonly called “coyotes” in North America), and
harraga (undocumented migrants who wish to enter Europe). The two enclaves
of Spanish sovereignty on the Moroccan mainland, Ceuta and Melilla, are physi-
cally fenced off in order to deter entry by undocumented immigrants. These two
phenomena are framed systematically in European and Arabic media outlets in
a way that stresses the Islamic and African identities of Morocco. But the poli-
tics and society of Morocco stem from multiple histories and identities: Berber
(Amzigh), Arab, Islamic, Jewish, African, Mediterranean, and European.
This book is, of course, not an examination of Moroccan culture; it is a jour-
ney through the revolutionary landscapes of the Arab world by means of a decon-
struction and decoding of Al Jazeera Arabic’s coverage of pivotal regional events.
During the revolutions of the Arab Spring, Al Jazeera Arabic provided an instru-
mental link between the emerging social media activism and multinational satel-
lite television broadcasts. Al Jazeera framed and promoted the term “revolution”
as synonymous with Islamic virtue during the early phases of the Arab Spring. Its
cameras continued to roll as revolutions turned to democratic disenchantment,
malaise, and willing acceptance of any kind of authority.
Looking back, one is left to wonder how things might be different today if
Al Jazeera Arabic had been around to cover the Moroccan professor’s shouts
of “Athawra! Athawra!” back in the early 1980s. Would the network’s cover-
age of such demonstrations have applied the sort of pressure felt most recently
by regimes in Tunisia and Egypt? Al Jazeera has been successfully exerting such
pressure since its inception in 1996. What would the Arab world look like now?
Would the world have witnessed an earlier Arab Spring? The answer is probably
no, since Al Jazeera Arabic itself was a revolution in the Arab media landscape.
xiv
xiv • Preface
Preface • xv
of its own complicated Islamic experience. In the Khaleej, the 1973 oil crisis spurred
Gulf countries to amplify their funding of Arab extraparliamentary opposition in
European capitals, mainly Paris and London. Islamist opposition efforts with the
poor and attempts to influence the networks of the mosques built by North African
guest workers in Europe were also beneficiaries of this funding. The cassettes of the
Egyptian blind preacher, Mohamed Kichk, which Gilles Kepel immortalized in
his seminal book The Prophet and the Pharaoh, were sold everywhere. The human
rights records of Arab countries became more deplorable than ever.
The people of the Arab world were in need of freedom. Poverty, birth rates,
and illiteracy were high everywhere, with the exception of the oil-rich coun-
tries. Youth in the 1980s were torn between political Islam and a vanishing
Marxist-Leninist alternative. The only other choice for the youth of North Africa
(Maghreb) was migration to Europe, and that for the youth of the Middle East
(Mashreq) was migration to the wealthy Gulf countries (Khaleej). Migration was
a path to survival. Emigration to Europe meant political freedom, while emigra-
tion to the Gulf meant the “unfreedom” and strict norms of Salafi Islam.
The long-term effects of emigration were devastating. By the 2010s, émigrés
returning home after long sojourns found their home countries unrecognizable,
as the secular institutions that had characterized their youths had been largely
Islamized. These changes were brilliantly captured by Amin Maalouf in Origines,
a novel about an émigré, Adam, who returns to Lebanon after the civil war and no
longer recognizes what once was the “Switzerland of the Middle East.” Adam is
disillusioned by the disappearance of Levantine culture. He feels that the Lebanese
people who have stayed in the country have changed, having abandoned their
cosmopolitan ideals in favor of narrow and exclusive identities that perpetuate
hatred and violence between communities. Living under a brutal Syrian occupa-
tion had forced the Lebanese people into a “rotten compromise” (Maalouf 2012).
Similar accounts of Algeria, Iraq, Syria, and the Sudan were written in this period.
The shift from secularization to Islamization stupefied one Egyptian, who was
shocked to see his country move from the vanguard of Arab modernity, which
ranged from movies to music, to the rulership of Morsi and the veil.
The Arab world’s university campuses have seen a gradual process of
Islamization, which began around the mid-1980s and reached a peak in the
2000s. In January 2011, during Tunisia’s Jasmine Revolution, I was invited by
Bayt al-Hikma (House of Wisdom) as a keynote speaker for a memorial in Rabat
on the anniversary of the death of the Algerian thinker Mohammed Arkoun.
I had the chance to visit a number of university campuses during my stay. Islamist
student organizations were the dominant social force. An acquaintance at the
well-known engineers’ institute of Casablanca complained to me that many of his
colleagues are khwanjiyya (bearded Islamists).
xvi
xvi • Preface
Preface • xvii
xviii • Preface
Brothers, despite decades of political organization, were loath to develop the sort
of infrastructure that might form the foundations of a self-perpetuating system
of governance in Egypt. Instead, the Morsi government administered acts of gov-
ernment, like the short-lived expansion of freedoms and a new constitution, in
the same way it might have dispensed figs or dates at the end of Friday prayers.
They were small acts of charity, expected to engender devotion. Like a preacher
delivering a Friday congregational sermon, the Morsi government seemed con-
tent to preach to those Egyptians who supported it, with seemingly little concern
for those who did not buy into the new Islamist rule.
The return of military rule to Egypt, the continuing bloody war in Syria, and
the outflow of refugees fleeing the counterrevolution seem to sadly confirm the
Arab proverb “One cannot exchange one friend for a better one.” The saying itself
betrays a kind of fatalism that is common in Arab societies. Yet people across
the Arab world have stood up again and again in the past five years to demand a
change in the status quo. It remains to be seen how these struggles will ultimately
play out. But it is clear that voices from the streets and squares of the Maghreb,
Mashreq, and Khaleej have become far more difficult to silence than that of the
professor I saw in Bab L’had all those years ago. One reason for that is the tremen-
dous reach and popularity of Al Jazeera, which served as a mirror to an audience
that saw in its reflection a powerful and determined force. Given its power to
shape the self-image of an entire region, it is appropriate that we closely examine
the motivations, values, and underlying assumptions that go into constructing the
portrayal of the Arab world Al Jazeera presents to its largely Arab audience. That
is precisely what I have done in this book. My overall intention is to warn against
revolutions that are carried out in the absence of shared political and intellectual
agendas, and are propagated without charismatic and popular figures, not as Don
Quixote did with the windmills.
xix
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I dedicate this book to the memory of Pierre Bourdieu and Mohammed Arkoun
for their reflexive and liberating approaches to research methodology and their
continuous epistemological scrutiny in the pursuit of a better understanding of
the changing nature of societies affected by Islam as a social, cultural, and reli-
gious phenomenon. Their generosity surpassed all of my expectations as a student
and as a friend. Arkoun and Bourdieu were unable to witness the full unfolding of
the Arab Spring and the eruption of youth revolutions. However, Bourdieu wrote
about youth extensively, once noting that “youth is just a word.” Arkoun saw the
future of the Arab and Muslim world, revolutionizing the repetitive tradition of
reciting the Quran and the Hadith without reflexive knowledge and breaking
from the circular and dogmatic production of knowledge in order to contrib-
ute to the present and future of human civilization. They both loved Algeria, the
country where great intellectuals such as Jacques Derrida, Albert Camus, Kateb
Yassine, Mouloud Memri, Frantz Fanon, Leila Sabbar, Asia Djebar, and Hélène
Cixous helped to empower and advance the cause of global emancipation.
I want to thank my very dear friend, the poet Khedija Gadhoum (University
of Georgia), for her support and continuous feedback on my research on the
Tunisian revolution. I want also to thank her family for their generous hospitality
in Tunis, putting me in contact with people like Basma and Nabil Kanzari, Adil
Hajji of Dar al-kitab, and bloggers such as Lina Mheni. I want to thank my friend
and mentor Mohammed Boudoudou (University of Mohammed V) for provid-
ing relevant information and insights from the Maghreb and for discussing key
issues related to the Arab world with me. I thank Juan Díez, with whom I con-
ducted the 2007 World Values Survey in Morocco, and Ron Engelhard and Pippa
Norris, who invited me to present the results in 2008 at the Swedish Cultural
Center in Alexandria and at Bahshishir University in Istanbul. I benefited
greatly from my discussions with Fares Braizat of Jordan. I would like to thank
Mrs. Touria Yacoubi-Arkoun, the widow of Mohammed Arkoun, who died at
the height of the Egyptian revolution in January 2011, as well as the human rights
xx
xx • Acknowledgments
activist, Morocco MP, and president bayt al hikma, Khadija Rouissi. Yacoubi-
Arkoun and Rouissi honored me with an invitation to speak in Rabat at the com-
memoration of the first anniversary of Mohammed Arkoun’s death. The occasion
gave me the opportunity to serve on the same panel with my former professor,
the great sociologist Rahma Bourkia, along with Mohamed Tozy, to whom I am
also grateful.
My colleague and friend, Roberto Franzosi, ignited my curiosity with his
excellent ideas and enthusiasm, methodological insights, and innovative tech-
nical advice. His book, From Words to Numbers, was extremely helpful and
inspiring. The frequent conversations with my friends Tyrone Forman, Abdul
Janmohamed, Michel Laguerre, Rachid Benzine, Stephan Sanders, Claude
Heurtaux, Mohamed Sekkat, and Awatif and Zine El Abidine were a great source
of inspiration and intellectual exchange. I want to extend my warmest thanks
to James Cook and the Oxford University Press reviewers for their feedback on
early drafts of this work. I appreciate their enthusiasm, insight, and constructive
criticism.
I am indebted to Jack Murray for his phenomenal skill and tireless help in
solving all my laptop-related problems, as there have been many over the past ten
years. I want to thank Jessica Perlove, Lori Jahnke, Leonie Duyvis, Rob O’Reilly,
and Michael C. Page of the Woodruff Library and the Center for Digital
Scholarship at Emory University, who helped with the process of data collec-
tion and data visualization. Page redrew the network map of Islamic scholars con-
nected by satellite from different studios around the world to Yusuf al-Qaradawi.
I would like to give O’Reilly a special thank you for assisting in the revision of
figures. I want to extend my warmest thanks to Ouail Mahir, who was instrumen-
tal in the data analytics, Nick Nasr for making revisions to the graphs, Stephanie
Ramage, Rebecca Liebskind, Rebecca Rozen, Ashley Easton, and Nico Fournier,
who, along with Gabrielle Corrigan and Kevin Kinder. were involved in the early
process of editing many of the transcripts of Al Jazeera shows. The very talented
Chuck Stanley was superb in scrutinizing every comma, clause, note, and cita-
tion. He brought a meticulous approach to the task of editing this manuscript.
I want to thank Gadi Wolfsfeld, who commented many times on my Al
Jazeera papers at multiple American Political Science Association meetings. I am
indebted to Holli Semetko, Doris Graber, Robert Entman, Paolo Mancini, Steve
Livingston, Thomas Patterson, Gianpietro Mazzoleni, and Lance Bennett for
their inspiring contributions to the field of media framing theory. Thanks to John
Esposito, Johan Goudsblom, Aldelkader, Ben Ali, Eve Livet, Jonathan Gitlen,
Chef Rafih BenJelloun, and Samir Mahir. My students, Kadiata Mamadou Sy,
Jordan Stein, Thanh Thuy Phan, and Melissa Brovarly, greatly aided my research
for this book. Special thanks to Fethi Benslama (Soudain la Révolution!), and
xxi
Acknowledgments • xxi
xxii • Acknowledgments
During the Algerian civil war Pierre Bourdieu, Abram de Swaan, Jacques
Derrida, Salman Rushdie, and Adriaan van Dis contributed to the Villes Refuges
and the University of Amsterdam Exile Fund created by Abram de Swaan and
hosted in Amsterdam, where I was on the board, to help the many Algerian
journalists, writers, and social scientists who were targets of extreme violence in
Algeria. I had the honor of having the late Khaled Ouadah (in early 1990) for a
year as a scholar in residence at the University of Amsterdam, invited by Abram
de Swaan after a recommendation by Pierre Bourdieu. Ouadah, a psychoana-
lyst, introduced me to the many Algerians living in France who had experienced
the difficulties of life under violent radical political Islam. Also, the late Fatema
Mernissi and the late Abdelwahab Medeb, who hosted and produced the show
“Cultures d’Islam” on France Culture, was very helpful.
I want to thank my sister Leila Cherribi (University of Amsterdam), who was
crucial in helping me understand the interplay between news coverage and revo-
lution in Egypt. Lastly, I want to thank my friends and family for their uncon-
ditional love and support, especially Marijke Jansen for helping me with Excel
sheets, infinite transcriptions, and making the painting for the cover page based on
a picture I took in Tunis. Thank you, Miriam, Sophia, Tya Kyara, Jasmine, Yasin,
Omar, Mehdi, Driss, Fatiha, Rania, Abdellatif, Adil, and my dad, Simohamed.
xxiii
F R I D AY S O F R A G E
xxiv
1
I AL JAZEERA UNITES
2
3
4 • Al Jazeera Unites
Modernization
Authors like Seib (2012), Noueihed and Warren (2012), Talon (2011), and
Braizat and Berger (2012) ) have acknowledged that Al Jazeera played a role in
the Arab Spring and has had an influence on Arab countries. The sudden domino
effect of Arab regimes, triggered by a single dramatic act of self-immolation by a
Tunisian fruit vendor, must be contextualized in a long-term perspective. It can
actually be seen as the result of a trickle-down effect of a number of challenges
Another random document with
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Fenstern auf allen Seiten würden in Mosul unerträgliche Steinkamine
sein. Auch die Häuser der Armen haben dieselbe Bauart; nur fehlt
natürlich der Marmorschmuck; oft sind sie aus unbehauenem Stein
oder nur aus an der Sonne getrocknetem Lehm.
Dem kunstverständigen Auge, das auf diesen Höfen der
zahlreichen vornehmen Häuser an malerischen Motiven reiche
Ausbeute findet, mag Mosul leicht als eine Perle unter den Städten
des Orients erscheinen. Das Panorama von einem hohen Dache aus
enttäuscht aber stark. Man sieht nichts als graue, fensterlose
Mauern, flache Hausdächer mit Brustwehren in verschiedener Höhe,
runde Minarette mit einem oder mehreren Rundgängen für die
Gebetsrufer, und hier und da die viereckigen Türme und flachen
Kuppeln der christlichen Kirchen und Klöster.
Toros, 60jähriger armenischer Karawanenfuhrer aus
Erserum.
Basarstraße in Mosul.
Weit dankbarer ist eine Wanderung durch die Straßen und
Basare, wahrhaftige Labyrinthe, durch die man sich nur unter
kundiger Führung hindurchfindet. Eng und winkelig sind die Gassen,
wie in Bagdad, weniger häufig die Holzerker. Die belebteren
Stadtviertel haben Steinpflaster, aber so schlechtes, daß eine
Droschke verunglücken würde, wenn sie sich überhaupt hier
durchzwängen könnte. Schmutz, Unrat, Gerümpel, Fruchtschalen,
Gedärme und andere Küchenabfälle liegen haufenweise umher, die
widerwärtigen Hunde wühlen darin herum. Die Straßenreinigung
besorgt nur ab und zu ein heftiger Sturmwind mit riesengroßem
Besen; ganze Kehrichtwolken füllen dann die Basare. Vergebliche
Mühe! In den Winkeln sammelt und häuft sich der Schmutz um so
höher, und dort bleibt er liegen.
Eine schöne Ecke im Basar.
In den lebhaftesten Straßen des Basars sind die Läden der
Waffenschmiede und Gelbgießer, die Stände der Schmiede und
Seiler, Fleischbänke und Obstläden, wo Rosinen und Mandeln,
Nüsse, Gurken, Gewürze usw. feilgehalten werden. Das Geschäft
der Töpfer blüht, denn der Krug geht solange zu Wasser, bis er
bricht, und ganz Mosul braucht die hübschen Trinkgefäße, die die
Frauen so anmutig auf dem Kopfe einhertragen. In den Buchläden
schmökern Männer im Turban oder Fes umher. Durchmarschierende
Soldaten kaufen Tabak und Pfeifen, Feuerstahl und Mundstücke.
Mächtige Ballen europäischer Stoffe liegen aufgestapelt, immer in
schreiender Farbe, die das Auge des Orientalen erfreut. Ein
Hammam, ein Bad, ist überall in der Nähe. Kleine Tunnel, deren
spitzbogige Tore oft von schönen Skulpturen umrahmt sind, führen
zu den Karawansereien der Großkaufleute, und Stände mit alten
Kleidern, wahre Herde für ansteckende Krankheiten und Ungeziefer,
fehlen auch nicht. In den engsten Gassen arbeiten die Barbiere in
schattigen Gewölben. Schutzdächer aus dünnen Brettern oder
Bastmatten über den Läden erhöhen noch die malerische Buntheit
der Straßenbilder.
Bab-el-Dschiser.
Das Herz des Basars ist ein kleiner, unregelmäßiger Marktplatz,
auf den die Hauptstraßen zusammenlaufen. Hier liegen mehrere
Kaffeehäuser. Auf der offenen Veranda des einen habe ich viele
Stunden zugebracht. Unter mir ein Gewimmel, wie in einem
Ameisenhaufen; würdig einherschreitende Orientalen im Turban
oder Fes und in weißen, braunen oder gestreiften Kopftüchern mit
Scheitelringen, Chaldäer und Syrier — im Fes, aber sonst
europäisch gekleidet —, Priester und Bettler, Frauen mit und ohne
Schleier, Hausierer und lärmende Kinder, Eseltreiber mit ihren
störrischen Langohren und Kameltreiber durchziehender
Karawanen, die nie ein Ende nahmen. Das Reizvollste aber war der
Blick über dies Gewimmel hinweg durch den mächtigen Rundbogen
des gegenüberliegenden Tores Bab-el-dschiser auf den nahen
Strom, die Brücke, die seine Ufer verbindet, und auf die Ruinenhügel
von Ninive.
In 35 Bogen zwischen mächtigen Steinpfeilern setzt die Brücke
über den Strom. Aber nur auf dem linken Ufer ist sie landfest; bei
niedrigem Wasserstand steht sie dort zum größten Teil auf dem
Trockenen. Die Strömung geht am rechten Ufer entlang, wo auch
das Bett am tiefsten ist, und bei Hochwasser, nach der
Schneeschmelze oder nach Frühjahrsregen, würde auch die stärkste
Steinbrücke der rasenden Gewalt des Wassers nicht widerstehen.
Deshalb hat man hier eine Pontonbrücke angesetzt, deren
Verbindungsteil mit der Steinbrücke, je nach dem Wasserstand,
seine Lage selbsttätig ändert. Auch unterhalb der festen Brücke läuft
ein Fußsteig, der aber nur bei niedrigem Wasserstand begangen
werden kann; jetzt war er überschwemmt. Die Brücke wurde vor
achtzig Jahren von einem Italiener gebaut, dessen Sohn noch jetzt
in Mosul leben soll.
Das orientalische Gepräge Mosuls wird starke Einbuße erleiden,
wenn nach dem Kriege die Bagdadbahn fertig ist, und Eisenbahnen,
Lokomotiven und Güterzüge die Kamele verdrängen. Schon jetzt
hatte die Regulierungsmanie eines Wali auch hier gewütet. Vom
künftigen Bahnhof brach man eine Straße quer durch die Stadt zum
Tigris. Dadurch fiel eine Menge schöner alter Häuser und Höfe der
Spitzhacke zum Opfer. Der Krieg verhinderte bisher den Neubau;
infolgedessen sah die Straße aus, als habe ein Erdbeben sie
zerstört, oder als hätten die Russen hier wie in Ostpreußen gehaust.
Halb abgerissene Häuser standen da, und bloßgelegte Höfe mit
hohen Gewölben, Säulen und Marmorarabesken boten einen
traurigen Anblick. Ich fragte den Gendarm, den mir der Kommandant
als Begleiter mitgegeben hatte, ob der für diese Zerstörung
verantwortliche Wali nicht gehängt worden sei. „Im Gegenteil,“
antwortete er lachend, „jedenfalls ist er Ehrenbürger von Mosul
geworden!“
Tunnel im Basar.
Erntetanz.
Am zweiten Sonntag lud mich der Chorbischof der syrischen
Kirche, Monseigneur Chajat, Fondateur de l’Institut Pius X. à
Mosoul, zu einer höchst originellen Tanzvorstellung kurdischer
Landleute, die zur Erntearbeit nach Mosul zu kommen pflegen. Die
Männer trugen Turbane, Westen, Leibgürtel und lange Hosen, die
Frauen leichte Kopftücher, Mieder oder Jäckchen und bunte Röcke.
Vier Musikanten spielten auf; ihre Instrumente waren ein Kanun, ein
zitherartiges Saitenspiel, das man aus den Knien hält, ein Oud oder
eine Gitarre, ein Dumbug oder eine Trommel und ein Tamburin mit
rasselnden Tellerchen an der Seite, genannt Daff (vgl. das Bild S.
348).
Dreiundzwanzigstes Kapitel.
Ninive.
I m vorigen Kapitel berichtete ich schon, daß ich am 11. Juni 1916
die alte Seldschukenburg in Mosul bestieg, die sich auf einem
steilen Felsen über dem rechten Ufer des Tigris erhebt, und zum
erstenmal die alte Königsstadt Ninive vor mir sah — oder vielmehr
die Stelle, wo sie ehemals gestanden hat. Keine grauen Massen
gewaltiger Mauern, keine Türme mit Zinnen, keine Terrassen von
Königspalästen oder festen Bürgerhäusern sind mehr zu sehen;
nicht einmal Reste ihrer Grundmauern ragen über der Erde hervor.
Alles ist verschwunden; nur drei ausgedehnte, gleichförmige Hügel
mit schroffen Abhängen verraten den Ort, wo vor Jahrtausenden die
Hauptstadt des assyrischen Weltreichs blühte. Von der
beherrschenden Höhe der Seldschukenburg aus erhält man aber
wenigstens einen ungefähren Begriff von der Lage und Größe dieser
Stadt, und die Phantasie glaubt den Lauf der Stadtmauer zu
erkennen. Sonst nichts als graubraune Wüste in glühendem
Sonnenbrand.
Und diesen Eindruck unendlicher Verwüstung erhielt ich auch, als
ich am 16. Juni mit Professor Tafel, der ebenfalls von Bagdad
herübergekommen war, auf dem Ruinenfeld selbst umherstreifte.
Nur an zwei Stellen dieses ungeheuern Friedhofes hat sich das
Leben noch festgenistet; die eine ist das Dorf Nebi Junus,
unmittelbar neben dem südlichen Hügel und selbst auf einer kleinen
Anhöhe gelegen, von der die Grabmoschee des Propheten Jonas
weithin sichtbar ist, und das Dorf Kujundschik, berühmt als einer der
ergiebigsten Fundorte der Assyriologen.
Die Droschke, mit der wir von Mosul über das Rollsteinpflaster
der Tigrisbrücke Ninive entgegenfuhren, war mit Seilen umschnürt,
weil ihre gesprungenen und eingetrockneten Radkränze und
Speichen auseinanderzufallen drohten. Auf dem linken Ufer bogen
wir rechts ab und hielten bald am Fuße des Abhangs, von wo ein
Fußweg zur Grabmoschee Nebi Junus hinaufführt. Es war gerade
Freitag und Gottesdienst in der Moschee.
Oberster Priester der Grabmoschee des
Propheten Jonas.
Man empfing uns freundlich und geleitete uns zu einer
Dachterrasse hinauf, von der aus eine Tür in den Tempel führte. In
einem kleinen Kiosk, einem Turmzimmer mit Fenstern nach allen
Himmelsrichtungen, die eine prächtige Aussicht auf das
gegenüberliegende Mosul darboten, mußten wir warten, bis die
Gebete zu Ende waren, die Allahs Segen auf den Sultan, auf Kaiser
Wilhelm und Kaiser Franz Joseph herabflehten und um Sieg über
die Feinde baten — eine erbauliche Zeremonie für die anwesenden
englischen Untertanen, wenn anders sie aufrichtige Gefühle für
England im Herzen hegten. Ein kleiner weißbärtiger Alter, den
Turban auf dem Kopf und eine Brille auf der Nase, leistete uns mit
mehreren andern Mohammedanern Gesellschaft.
Als die Gläubigen die Moschee zu verlassen begannen, zogen
wir die Schuhe aus; unser Führer ergriff meine Hand und bat uns
ihm zu folgen. Das Innere des Tempels war sehr einfach und
entbehrte jedes Schmucks, nur ein paar verschlissene Teppiche
lagen auf dem Boden. Seitwärts vor einem Gitterfenster standen
einige indische Mohammedaner im Gebet versunken. Durch dieses
Gitter sah man in die Krypta des Propheten Jonas hinab, ein dunkles
Loch, in dessen Mitte sich eine sarkophagähnliche Erhöhung abhob.
Das eigentliche Grab des Toten soll aber unter diesem Denkmal
liegen.