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Pradip K. Sikdar Editor
Groundwater
Development and
Management
Issues and Challenges in South Asia
Groundwater Development and Management
Pradip K. Sikdar
Editor
Groundwater Development
and Management
Issues and Challenges in South Asia
Editor
Pradip K. Sikdar
Department of Environment Management
Indian Institute of Social Welfare &
Business Management
Kolkata, India
Sold and distributed in North, Central and South America by Springer, 233 Spring Street,
New York 10013, USA.
This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer International Publishing AG part of
Springer Nature.
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
Preface
Social Welfare and Business Management for providing the infrastructural facilities.
The editor also thanks the Publisher Capital Publishing Company and Co-publisher
Springer for their kind support and great efforts in bringing the book to fruition.
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
Contributors
xi
xii Contributors
xiii
xiv About the Editor
societies, and is also on the Board of Editors of some leading national journals. He
was a Member of the CGWB State-Level Technical Evaluation Committee and West
Bengal Fact-Finding Commission on Environment. He has published more than
100 research papers in international and national journals, conference proceedings,
books, and 35 project reports. He has authored the book “Groundwater of West
Bengal: Assessment, Development and Management” (in Bengali) and co-authored
the book “A Text Book of Environment”. He has also edited two books on
“Interlinking of Indian Rivers.” He is the recipient of the 22nd Dewang Mehta
Business School Award 2014 for the “Best Professor in Water Resources Manage-
ment” and Groundwater Science Excellence Award in 2015 by the International
Association of Hydrogeologists – India Chapter in appreciation of his achievements
in the field of groundwater in India.
Chapter 1
Problems and Challenges for Groundwater
Management in South Asia
Pradip K. Sikdar
1 Introduction
South Asia represents the southern region of the Asian continent, which comprises
Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Nepal, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka.
Topographically, it is dominated by the Indian Plate, which rises above sea level as
Nepal and northern parts of India situated south of the Himalayas and the Hindu
Kush. South Asia is bounded on the south by the Indian Ocean and on land by West
Asia, Central Asia, East Asia, and Southeast Asia. South Asia covers about 5.1
million km2, which is 11.51% of the Asian continent or 3.4% of the world’s land
surface area. The region is home to about 39.5% of Asia’s population and over 24%
of the world’s population, making it both the most populous and the most densely
populated geographical region in the world. The important rivers of South Asia are
Ganges, Indus and Brahmaputra. These rivers have contributed to the rise and
prosperity of some of the earliest civilizations in history and today are the source
of livelihood for millions. The South Asian river basins, most of which have their
source in the Himalayas, support rich ecosystems and irrigate millions of hectares of
fields, thereby supporting some of the highest population densities in the world.
The climate of this vast region varies considerably from area to area from tropical
monsoon in the south to temperate in the north. The variety is influenced by not only
the altitude, but also by factors such as proximity to the sea coast and the seasonal
impact of the monsoons. Southern parts are mostly hot in summers and receive rain
during monsoon periods. The northern belt of Indo-Gangetic plains also is hot in
summer, but cooler in winter. The mountainous north is colder and receives snowfall
at higher altitudes of Himalayan ranges. As the Himalayas block the north-Asian
P. K. Sikdar (*)
Department of Environment Management, Indian Institute of Social Welfare and Business
Management, Kolkata, India
e-mail: p_sikdar@hotmail.com
bitter cold winds, the temperatures are considerably moderate in the plains. South
Asia is largely divided into four broad climate zones (Olive 2005). They are (i) dry
subtropical continental climate between the northern Indian edge and northern
Pakistani uplands, (ii) equatorial climate between the far south of India and south-
west Sri Lanka, (iii) tropical climate in most of the peninsula with variations such as
hot sub-tropical climate in northwest India, cool winter hot tropical climate in
Bangladesh and tropical semi-arid climate in the centre, and (iv) alpine climate in
the Himalayas.
Maximum relative humidity of over 80% has been recorded in Khasi and Jaintia
Hills and Sri Lanka, while the area adjoining Pakistan and western India records
lower than 20%. Climate of South Asia is largely characterized by monsoons. Two
monsoon systems exist in the region (Tyson 2002). They are (i) summer monsoon
when wind blows from southwest to most of parts of the region and accounts for
70%–90% of the annual precipitation, and (ii) winter monsoon when wind blows
from northeast. The warmest period of the year (March to mid-June) precedes the
monsoon season. In the summer the low pressures are centered over the Indus-
Gangetic Plain and high wind from the Indian Ocean blows towards the centre. The
monsoon season is relatively cooler because of cloud cover and rain. In early June
the jet streams vanish above the Tibetan Plateau, low pressure over the Indus Valley
deepens and the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) moves in. This change
results in depressions in the Bay of Bengal which brings in rain from June to
September (Olive 2005).
2 Hydrogeological Framework
2.1 India
2.2 Pakistan
The lndus Plain in Pakistan was formed by sediment deposits from the River lndus
and its tributaries, and it is underlain by a highly transmissive unconfined aquifer. In
the Punjab, most groundwater supplies are fresh. The main exceptions are the areas
of saline groundwater in the centre of the interfluviums (‘doab’), particularly those
4 P. K. Sikdar
between Multan and Faisalabad, around Sargodha, and in the south-eastern part of
the province. In the southern part of the lndus Plain, in Sindh, groundwater supplies
are more problematic. With the exception of a small strip along the River Indus,
groundwater supplies are highly saline. The discharge from the aquifers in Sindh is
generally less than that in Punjab (Survey of Pakistan 1989). Supplies are even less
in the eastern deserts and the western limestone ridges bordering the lndus Plain.
Balochistan and North West Frontier Province are geologically more complex. In
Balochistan, land formations consist of limestone, sandstone, and shale formations
alternating with sand, silt, and gravel deposits. The aquifers are confined and
generally yield only limited quantities of water. The quality of groundwater is
unsuitable for agriculture in parts of Balochistan, particularly in some of the coastal
areas, in patches in the large, alluvial Kacchi plain in the east, and in several valleys
in the uplands. Although the picture for North West Frontier Province resembles that
of Balochistan, irrigation with groundwater in North West Frontier Province is more
recent and, until recently, less extensive. This is due to the less arid conditions and
ample surface water resources. Another difference is in the areas around Bannu and
Mardan, where there are thick and extensive aquifers. In Bannu, however, the fresh
water is overlain by saline water.
Total groundwater resources in Pakistan has been estimated to be 57 BCM out of
which 30 to 40% is considered unsuitable for agriculture. Nearly 1.1 million
tubewells (agricultural wells) are among the major causes of rapidly depleting
groundwater levels. The over-exploitation of the confined aquifer has caused such
an alarming situation that in the forseeable future the supply from groundwater may
dry up in Quetta, the capital of Baluchistan. Large scale groundwater abstraction has
posed considerable threat to soil and groundwater quality.
2.3 Bangladesh
Pliestocene red-brown medium to fine sands that underlie grey Holocene medium to
fine sands in the Old Brahmaputra and Chandina areas (UNDP 1982; MMP 1983;
MMI 1992; Davies and Exley 1992), and (v) Early to Middle Pliestocene coarse to
fine fluvial sands of the Dupi Tila Formation that underlie the Madhupur and Barind
Tracts, capped by deposits of Madhupur Clay Residuum (Welsh 1966).
In most of the groundwater studies undertaken in Bangladesh, the aquifer system
has not been divided stratigraphically. Conceptual models of hydrogeological con-
ditions based on simple lithological units have been used to assess the hydraulic
properties of aquifers and tubewell designs to depth of about 150 m. The aquifers
have been divided into two groups according to colour and degree of weathering
(Clark and Lea 1992). They are (i) the grey sediments mainly deposited during the
last 20 ka, and (ii) the red brown sediments mainly older than 100 ka with iron oxides
cements and grey smectitic clays. Hydraulic conductivities determined for grey
sediments are estimated to be in the range 0.4–100 m/day. Those for red brown
sediments are in the range 0.2–50 m/day (UNDP 1982). These give a ratio of
hydraulic conductivities of 2:1 for grey-brown sediments. In general, the regional
groundwater flow in the aquifers of Bangladesh is from north to south with local
variation near major rivers. National Water Plan Phase-II estimated average ground-
water as 21 cubic kilometres in 1991 (Sengupta et al. 2012). More than 60 per cent of
the groundwater in Bangladesh contains naturally occurring arsenic, with concen-
tration levels often significantly exceeding World Health Organisation’s (WHO)
standard of 10 μg/L.
2.4 Afghanistan
1986). Of these basins, the Kabul Basin has been studied most extensively since
2001 (Broshears et al. 2005; Akbari et al. 2007; Lashkaripour and Hussaini 2008;
Houben et al. 2009a, b; Mack et al. 2010). The Kabul Basin geology consists of
consolidated rocks in the mountains surrounding the basin with unconsolidated
sediments in the basin serving as the principal aquifer system. There are four aquifers
in the Kabul Basin consisting mainly of sand and gravel which become slightly
cemented with increasing depth. The Paghman-Darulaman basin has two aquifers
lying along the course of River Paghman and the upper course of River Kabul. The
other two aquifers are located in Logar Basin and the southern part of the Kabul
Basin and follow the course of River Logar and the lower course of River Kabul.
The general groundwater flow direction is from western or south-western basin
margin, through the basin centre, to the eastern basin margin. Locally the thickness
of the aquifer can be up to 80 m (Bockh 1971). The Kabul, Paghman and Logar
aquifers provide most of the drinking water to the residents of Kabul. The hydraulic
conductivity of the aquifers varies from 2.3 10 5 to 1.3 10 3 m/s and can be
classified as permeable to very permeable (Himmelsbach et al. 2005). Each of these
three aquifers near Kabul is capped by a loess layer that varies between 1 and 5 m in
thickness and helps to protect groundwater from contaminants migrating downward
from the surface. The loess also inhibits infiltration and impacts recharge. The Kunar
River valley in eastern Afghanistan is another basin that contains an important
aquifer system. According to Banks and Soldal (2002), these intermontane basins
are similar to two other thoroughly studied locations: the intermontane trough
between the Greater and Lesser Caucasus in Azerbaijan and the intermontane trough
of the Altiplano, between the Cordilleras Oriental and Occidental of Bolivia. The
total groundwater recharge has been estimated to be 10,650 106 m3/year and the
total groundwater usage is 2800 106 m3/year (Uhl 2003).
2.5 Nepal
Nepal is among the richest in terms of water resource availability. Water resources are
abundant throughout the country in the form of snow covers, rivers, springs, lakes and
groundwater. The total renewable water resource of the country is estimated to be
237 km3/year (225 km3/year for surface water sources and 12 km3/year for groundwater
sources) and per capita water availability for 2001 was 9600 m3/capita/year (http://www.
wepa-db.net/policies/state/nepal/state.htm, accessed on February 2017).
Groundwater is abundant in the aquifers of the Terai and the Kathmandu Valley.
About 50% of the water used in the city of Kathmandu is derived from groundwater.
Groundwater availability is more limited in the populated hilly regions because of the
lower permeability of the indurated and crystalline rock types. In the Kathmandu
Valley (area around 500 square kilometres), groundwater is abstracted from two main
aquifers within the thick alluvial sediment sequence. A shallow unconfined aquifer
occurs at >10 m depth and a deep confined aquifer occurs at around 310–370 m
(Khadka 1993). The transmissivity value ranges between 163 and 1056 m2/day for the
1 Problems and Challenges for Groundwater Management in South Asia 7
shallow aquifer and 22.5 and 737 m2/day for the deep aquifer (Pandey and Kazma
2011) indicating that the shallow aquifer has a better capacity to transmit water.
Exploitation of these aquifers, especially the shallow aquifer, has increased rapidly
in recent years as a result of the increasing urbanisation of the region. Recent
abstraction of groundwater from the deep aquifer has led to a decrease in the
groundwater level by around 15–20 m since the mid 1980s (Khadka 1993). Below
the alluvial sediments in the Kathmandu Valley, karstic limestone aquifers also exist.
A small number of natural springs issue from these and are used for water supply in the
southern part of the valley. The limestone aquifer has not been developed and has
received little hydrogeological attention. Shallow and deep aquifers are also present in
the young alluvial sediments throughout most of the Terai region (Jacobson 1996).
The shallow aquifer appears to be unconfined and well developed in most areas,
although it is thin or absent in Kapilvastu and Nawalparasi (Upadhyay 1993). The
deep aquifer of the Terai region is reported to be artesian (Basnyat 2001).
Six main types of groundwater aquifers have been identified and characterized in Sri
Lanka. They are (i) shallow karstic aquifer of Jaffna Peninsula, (ii) deep confined
aquifer, (iii) coastal sand aquifers, (iv) alluvial aquifers, (v) shallow regolith aquifer
of the hard rock region, and (vi) south western lateritic (Cabook) aquifer. In 1985,
the internal renewable groundwater resources were estimated at 7.8 km3, most
(estimated at 7 km3/year) returning to the river systems and being included in the
surface water resources estimate of 50 km3/year (http://www.eoearth.org/view/arti
cle/156991/, accessed on February 2017).
The shallow karstic aquifer of the Jaffna peninsula is composed of Miocene
limestone and is intensively used. The aquifer is 100 to 150 m thick, distinctly
bedded and well jointed. The shallow groundwater forms mounds or lenses floating
over the saline water. These water mounds or lenses reach their peak during the
monsoon rains of November–December (Panabokke and Perera 2005).
The deep confined aquifers occur within the sedimentary limestone and sandstone
formations of the northwest coastal plain and are least utilized. These aquifers are
more than 60 m deep and have a relatively high recharge rate. The deep aquifer is
highly faulted and it separates the aquifer into a series of isolated blocks thus forming
seven distinct groundwater basins. The shallow coastal sand aquifer occurs on the
coastal beaches and spits in the Kalpitiya Peninsula and the Mannar Island in the
north west of Sri Lanka and on raised beaches of Nilaveli-Kuchchaweli, Pulmoddai
and Kalkuda in the north-eastern region. The shallow coastal aquifers occupy about
1250 sq. km and are intensively used for drinking, domestic, agriculture and tourism
industry.
The alluvial aquifers occur on both coastal and inland flood plains, inland river
valleys of varying size, and old buried river beds and is unconfined in nature. The
deeper and larger alluvial aquifers occur along the lower reaches of the major rivers
8 P. K. Sikdar
that cut across the various coastal plains. Rivers such as Mahaweli Ganga, Kelani
Ganga, Deduru Oya, Mi Oya, Kirindi Oya and Malwathu Oya have broad and deep
alluvial beds of variable texture and gravel content in their lower reaches. Old buried
riverbeds with high groundwater yield are present in the lower part of River Kelani.
The alluvial formations of these larger rivers may vary between 10 and 35 m
thickness, and may extend to several hundreds of meters on either side of the
riverbeds. A reliable volume of groundwater can be extracted from these alluvial
aquifers throughout the year and are intensively used at present.
Groundwater potential in the hard rock region of Sri Lanka is limited because of
the low groundwater storage capacity and transmissivity of the underlying crystal-
line basement hard rock (Sirimanne 1952). Groundwater is found in the weathered
rock zone, or the regolith, as well as in the deeper fracture zone. The weathered zone
generally ranges from 2 to 10 m in thickness, while the fracture zone is located at
depths of more than 30–40 m (Panabokke 2003). This shallow regolith aquifer is
mainly confined to a narrow belt along the inland valley systems of this undulating
mantled plain landscape, and despite its low yield and transmisivity, it has provided
the basic minimum water needs for village settlements. The average thickness of the
regolith is not more than 10 m in this region. Recent developments in agro-well
farming in the north central provinces of the country are wholly dependant on this
shallow groundwater (Karunaratne and Pathmarajah 2002).
The laterite or cabook, aquifers which occur in southwestern Sri Lanka have
considerable water holding capacity depending on the depth of the Cabook Forma-
tion and is unconfined in nature. Due to the highly dissected nature of the macro
landscape in this region, the aquifer is highly fragmented into a number of discreet,
low mounds, within the residual landscape which is separated from each other by
intervening valley floors. This aquifer has been highly exploited due to rapid
expansion of industrial estates, urban housing schemes and bottled water projects
especially in the area of outer Colombo and adjacent districts.
2.7 Maldives
2.8 Bhutan
3 Problems of Groundwater
South Asia is home to about a quarter of the global population, but has less than 5%
of the world’s annual renewable water resources. Low groundwater recharge
(Fig. 1.1), low per capita water availability, coupled with a very high relative level
of water use (dominated by irrigation), makes South Asia one of the most water
scarce regions of the world, and a region where scarcity impacts on economic
development (Fig. 1.2).
Since the 1970s, groundwater extraction has increased greatly in South Asia
especially for food security. For example, in India, groundwater irrigated areas
witnessed a spectacular increase from around 11.9 million hectare in 1970–1971
to 33.1 million hectare in 1998–1999, an increase of over 178%. The number of
groundwater extraction mechanism rose from less than one million in 1960 to almost
26–28 million in 2002. In Pakistan Punjab, the number of mechanized wells and tube
10 P. K. Sikdar
Fig. 1.1 Long-term average groundwater recharge. (Source: Döll et al. 2002)
Fig. 1.3 Distribution of arsenic in groundwater in Asia. (Source: Brunt et al. 2004a)
wells increased from barely a few thousand in 1960 to 500 thousands in 2000.
Bangladesh saw an increase in the number of tube wells, from 93,000 in 1982–1983
to almost 800,000 in 1999–2000. The beneficial impacts of groundwater use are
increased productivity, food security, increased recharge, decreased flood intensity,
job creation, livelihood diversification, poverty alleviation and general economic
and social improvement. But in the long run, the impact of groundwater extraction
might be negative especially in over-exploitation situation, such as permanent
lowering of the water table, deterioration of water quality, saline intrusion in coastal
areas, etc.
Fig. 1.4 Distribution of fluoride in groundwater in Asia. (Source: Brunt et al. 2004b)
skin lesions, known as keratosis. At the same time, arsenic causes a wide range of
other effects on health, including diseases of the liver and kidney, cardio-vascular
and peripheral vascular diseases, neurological effects, diabetes and chronic and acute
lung disease. Continued exposure to arsenic can lead to gangrene, cancers of the
skin, lung, liver, kidney and bladder, and thereby to death. High fluoride in ground-
water is another problem in India and Pakistan (Fig. 1.4). Consumption of water
having excess fluoride over a prolonged period leads to a chronic ailment known as
fluorosis. Dental fluorosis, also called “mottled enamel”, occurs when the fluoride
level in drinking water is marginally above 1.0 mg/L. Typical manifestations of
dental fluorosis are loss of shining and development of horizontal yellow streaks on
teeth. Since this is caused by high fluoride in or adjacent to developing enamel,
dental fluorosis develops in children born and brought up in endemic areas of
fluorosis. Skeletal fluorosis affects both adults and children and is generally
manifested after consumption of water with fluoride levels exceeding 3 mg/L.
Typical symptoms of skeletal fluorosis are pain in the joints and backbone. In severe
cases this can result in crippling the patient. Recent studies have shown that excess
intake of fluoride can also have certain non-skeletal health impacts such as gastro-
intestinal problems, allergies, anemia and urinary tract problems. Nutritional defi-
ciencies can enhance the undesirable effects of arsenic and fluoride. Anthropogenic
contamination in the form of heavy metals such as Cr, Pb, Mn and bacteriological
parameters has already made the groundwater unacceptable at many places.
1 Problems and Challenges for Groundwater Management in South Asia 13
Seawater intrusion into coastal fresh water aquifers is another serious groundwater
problem. Since a large portion of South Asia’s population is located along the coasts
there are many problems of this kind in this region. When groundwater is pumped
from aquifers that are in hydraulic connection with the sea, the gradients that are set
up may induce a flow of salt water from the sea towards the well. The migration of
salt water into freshwater aquifers under the influence of groundwater development
is known as seawater intrusion. There is a tendency to indicate occurrence of any
saline or brackish water along the coastal formations to sea water intrusion.
Although seawater intrusion is a slow process, in an area where pumping is contin-
uous, it tends to be an irreversible process. As groundwater is extracted from the
wells, the salt water slowly moves through the water-bearing formations in the
direction of the wells and, unless corrective measures are taken, the salt water will
ultimately begin to contaminate the fresh water in the wells. Such contamination
manifests itself in a gradual increase in the salt content of the water being pumped. In
India, sea water intrusion is observed along the coastal areas of Gujarat and
Tamil Nadu.
14 P. K. Sikdar
Land subsidence occurs when large amounts of groundwater have been withdrawn
from certain types of rocks, such as fine-grained sediments. The sediment compacts
because the water is partly responsible for holding up the ground. Decline of water
table or piezometric surface results in vertical compression of the subsurface mate-
rials (Bouwer 1977). Along with vertical compression, lateral compression may also
take place due to initiation or acceleration of lateral flow of groundwater. This lateral
movement also results in subsidence of the land surface. Any flow or overdraft of
groundwater in unconsolidated material should produce some movement of the land
surface. This movement is generally small, but may become very significant where
subsurface materials are thick and/or compressible and the groundwater level
declines appreciably (Sikdar et al. 1996). Land subsidence may not be noticeable
because it can occur over large areas rather than in a small spot. Over-exploitation of
groundwater in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh requires to be controlled so that
possibilities of land subsidence, a vulnerable environmental threat, can be avoided.
4 Groundwater Legislation
Therefore, challenges for groundwater management in South Asia are huge, and
perhaps, more importantly, that there is an urgent need for all professionals working
with water-related management to realize their personal responsibilities in creating
an accountable and conscious stewardship of water for present and future
generations.
6 Conclusion
References
Akbari, M.A., Tahir, M., Litke, D.W. and Chornack, M.P. (2007). Ground-Water Levels in the
Kabul Basin, Afghanistan, 2004–2007. U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2007–1294,
46 p.
Banks, D. and Soldal, O. (2002). Towards a policy for sustainable use of groundwater by
non-governmental organizations in Afghanistan. Hydrogeol J, 10: 377–392. doi: https://doi.
org/10.1007/s10040-002-0203-y.
Basnyat, K. (2001). Sustainable manageable models essential. The Rising Nepal (Daily),
Kathmandu.
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helpless and friendless from the prisons of infidels, of the widows
and orphans of Moslems, of the poor and the sons of the highways,”
under certain conditions. It concludes with the declaration that
whoever infringes these conditions in the future “will do himself
injustice, will prove himself an infidel, and partaker in the blood of
Hassan and Husein, and an accomplice of those who do despite to
the statutes of God.” Then comes the signature—“the humble
servant of God, Serjenk.”
The church and dwelling-house of Boheira are shown here. Of
Boheira it is said that he was a monk in this city, and was the first to
hail the youthful Mohammed as a coming prophet. Of this event,
Ockly has translated the following account given by one Basil: “The
caravan of the Koreish came by, with which were Kadijah’s camels,
which were looked after by Mohammed. He [Boheira] looked towards
the caravan, in the middle of which was Mohammed; and there was
a cloud upon him to keep him from the sun. Then the caravan
alighted, and Mohammed leaning against an old withered tree, it
immediately brought forth leaves. Boheira perceiving this, made an
entertainment for the caravan, and invited them into the monastery,
Mohammed staying behind with the camels. Boheira, missing him,
asked if there were all of them. Yes, they said, all but a little boy they
had left to look after their things and feed the camels. ‘What is his
name?’ says Boheira. They told him Mohammed ibn ʿAbdullah.
Boheira asked if his father and mother were not dead, and if he was
not brought up by his grandfather and uncle. Being satisfied that it
was so, he said: ‘O Koreish! set a great value upon him, for he is
your lord, and by him will your power be great both in this world and
in that to come: for he is your ornament and glory.’ They asked him
how he knew that. ‘Because,’ answered Boheira, ‘as you were
coming, there was never a tree nor a stone nor a clod but bowed
itself and worshipped God.’ Boheira, besides, told this Basil that a
great many prophets had leaned against this tree, and sat under it,
but it never bore any leaves before since it was withered. ‘And I
heard him say,’ says this same Basil, ‘this is the prophet concerning
whom ʿIsa [Jesus] spake, Happy is he that believes him, and follows
him, and gives credit to his mission.’”
That Mohammed met Boheira seems certain. But exactly what their
relations were it is not easy to say. The Syrian Christians believed
that he followed “the prophet,” and largely assisted him in the
composition of his “messages” or “revelations.” They say he supplied
the biblical information used for Mohammed’s purposes in the
Korʾân. The number of Jews, however, who long ere Mohammed’s
time had settled in el-Yemen suggests a more convenient source for
his knowledge, such as it was, of the Torah; but for his acquaintance
with Christianity he may possibly have been indebted to some
renegade like Boheira. And if his (Boheira’s) understanding of the
words of Jesus be illustrated in the phrase quoted above, what
wonder if his religion did not greatly impress such a mind as
Mohammed’s! In any case, it was in his Syrian journeys that he must
have come into contact with Christianity. However bootless, it is
impossible to help regretting that the master mind of the Arabian
peninsula should have seen our religion only in the debased form
then prevalent in these regions. Had it been ordered otherwise, the
whole history of the East might have run in nobler channels.
Close by a second Roman archway stands a large ruined house,
abounding in carved and sculptured stones, known as Kasr-Melek
el-Asfar. At Zorʿa there is also a “palace of the yellow king.”
The fortress is built around and upon the old Roman theatre, which,
contrary to expectation in such circumstances, is well preserved.
There are vast underground apartments, and cisterns which would
supply water for a large garrison through a siege of many months.
Subterranean passages, the natives say, lead to a great distance in
several directions.
Such an important place as Bozrah was bound to claim to be the
birthplace of Philip; nor would it be complete without some relation to
Job. Accordingly, an “ancient tradition” is forthcoming to the effect
that the patriarch dwelt in the country near the city.
On Saturday afternoon we heard the sounds of music and drums
proceeding from the town, and high over all the peculiarly shrill,
wavering cry uttered by Eastern women in times of excitement,
whether of grief or joy. The tramp of horses on the pavement, and
the tread of many feet, told of the approach of a procession. Soon a
company of horsemen swept into view, youthful, well mounted,
armed with the long rumh, or Arab spear, accompanied by a crowd
of all ages, clad in holiday attire of brilliant colours. Riding in the
procession were several little boys, who seemed to have little
interest in the affair, and to be, on the whole, not a little bored by it. It
was a bridal procession—an occasion of special joy, since not one
but four marriages were being celebrated. The enthusiasm lacking
on the part of the dressed-up, solemn-looking little bridegrooms was
made up for amply by the excited people who surrounded their
horses, dancing, singing, shouting, and clapping their hands. A band
with drums and timbrels went in front. On the wrists and ankles of
the women glittered rude bracelets; heavy rings ornamented their
fingers; nor was the nose-jewel entirely absent. Their heads were
covered with light kerchiefs of varied hues, the corners tied under the
chin, while the hair hung down in long, heavy plaits behind, often
loaded with coins, which might be the dowry of the women who wore
them. The men wore the kufîyeh and ʿakal—the “kerchief” and “thick
hair fillet”—on their heads, with the Arab coat of goats’-hair over their
under-garments. Those who were not barefooted wore the common
red shoes so dear to the Arab.
The horses pranced and capered. The procession advanced with
singing, clapping of hands to the music, and at times in a kind of
stately dance. They headed toward a wide stretch of level ground
behind our camp. Passing within the enclosure, those on foot drew
themselves up along one side; the horsemen dashed forward at full
gallop, and began a series of evolutions which, to Western eyes,
seemed to involve every man of them in imminent danger. Not a few
of the performances in which they pride themselves are obviously
cruel to the animals. Riding at full speed, it is a mark of
horsemanship to bring the animal to an absolute stop in an instant,
throwing him back on his haunches. In starting, he must spring
forward at full speed, like an arrow from the bow. If either of these
movements cannot be performed, horse or rider, or both, are
condemned. In driving the horses peculiar spurs are employed. The
bottom of the Arab stirrup is a broad piece of light iron, the hinder
part of which is sharpened. When the foot is slipped forward, this
piece of iron projects behind the heel. Driven into the sides of the
animal, it cuts almost like a knife. And another mark of horsemanship
is that these cuts be as far back as possible. The bridle, too, is an
instrument of torture. From the centre of the bit a sharp piece of iron
projects inward; a ring attached to the same point drops over the
under jaw; the reins are attached to iron rods, which, from the ends
of the bit, extend a little way in front of the horse’s mouth, forming
thus a curb of terrific power. It is with this instrument the rider can
arrest his horse in a moment in mid-career. One can hardly help
wishing that, for the sake of the poor animal, he had a touch of its
quality himself. An exceptionally “hard-mouthed” horse may require
exceptional treatment, but the universal employment of this bridle
seems gratuitous cruelty.
Many of their feats, however, are very graceful, and in their
performance no little skill is required. Their beautiful wheeling and
curving on the level, in which horse and rider seem moulded
together, remind one of nothing so much as the fine circlings of an
expert skater. Good proficiency is attained when the rider can stoop
from the saddle at full gallop and pick up his staff from the ground. In
this and similar exercises the horseman on the medân, or
racecourse, is always engaged, in intervals of play. Loud were the
challenges of the men of Bozrah that festal day, and hearty the
responses. Prancing forward, one would touch another with his
rumh, and, turning, spur his steed and fly, hotly pursued by the man
thus challenged. Then ensued a series of evolutions in which all the
skill of the horsemen and all the speed of the horses were brought
into play. If the pursuer could put his rumh on the shoulder of his
challenger, he received the victor’s meed of applause; but should the
challenger’s steed outstrip that of the pursuer, the latter swerved off,
and sought to redeem his defeat by a display of skilful
horsemanship; and he might count himself fortunate if he reached
his place again without a second touch from his conqueror’s rumh.
The play over, the procession formed again, the solemn-looking little
men in the centre, as before, marched back to the city with music
and dancing, and passed away from our sight. We heard, at
intervals, the distant roll of the drums and the shrill cry of the women,
from which we knew that the festivities were still going on.
On Sundays more than other days one was impressed with the
abnormal quiet reigning over the land. Verily, the word of the Lord
has been fulfilled: “And you will I scatter among the nations.... Then
shall the land enjoy her sabbaths, as long as it lieth desolate, and ye
be in your enemies’ land, ... even the rest which it had not in your
sabbaths when ye dwelt upon it.” Temple, church, and mosque have
risen in succession in her cities, have flourished awhile in splendour,
then crumbled into ruin. At last the sabbath rest has fallen upon her.
The name Bozrah signifies a fortress, and must have described the
city from very ancient times. It would be of the highest importance to
dwellers in the cultivated lands to have here, on their border, a
strong defence against the wild rovers from the deserts. So true is
this, that it came to be said, “The prosperity of Bozrah is the
prosperity of Haurân.”
BOZRAH
This city is probably intended by Jeremiah as included in the
denunciation of wrath against Moab and all her cities, “far or near.” It
is mentioned in close connection with Kerioth and Beth Gamul,
which correspond as nearly as may be in name to Kerîyeh and Umm
el-Jamâl—ruined cities in the neighbourhood. Bozrah appears in the
Apocrypha and Josephus as Basora. Hither came the heroic Judas
Maccabeus. He delivered from imprisonment many of his
unfortunate brethren, and destroyed the city, burning it, as far as that
was possible, with fire. But withal there were yet glorious days in
store for Bozrah. The land passed under the dominion of the
Romans. The transjordanic provinces were subdued by Aulus
Cornelius Palma. Bozrah he made capital of the province, calling it
Nova Trajana Bostra, in honour of the emperor Trajan. This was in
a.d. 105, from which date was reckoned the Bostrian era. The old
city took a new lease of life, and worthily assumed her place as by
far the most important stronghold east of Jordan. Her streets were
graced with public buildings of which the proudest city need not have
been ashamed. A network of magnificent roads, which even yet are
traced across the plains, leading to all the principal towns and cities
in the province, found in her its centre. The merchandise of the East,
by way of the road from the Persian Gulf, stocked her marts, and the
gold and frankincense caravans from Arabia the Happy brought their
stores to increase her wealth. The time of her greatest splendour
probably fell in the short reign of Philip the Arabian, who, with the
wealth of Rome at his command, guided by his Oriental pride and
taste, would lavish adornment on the chief city of his native province,
embellishing her streets and squares with triumphs of architectural
art. Hither came the great Origen, to consult with the Bishop
Beryllus, who had gone astray in matters of faith and doctrine; and
he met with far greater success than the most doughty warriors for
orthodoxy may ever hope for, if they regard the heretic as one only to
be hunted out and prosecuted. Something might be learned from the
methods of Origen, who, in brotherly and friendly converse,
convinced the erring bishop, and saved him to the Church.
Subsequently the city became the seat of an archbishop. It
maintained its fame as a commercial and military centre down to the
Mohammedan conquest. Bozrah was the first Syrian city invested by
the Arabians. The intrepid and skilful soldier, Khâlid, surnamed “The
sword of God,” commanded the Moslems. While planted before the
fortress, the Mohammedans, in the absence of water, performed
their ablutions with sand. In the first encounter with Christians
outside the walls, the Moslems were entirely victorious. The former
shut themselves up in the city, and mounted banners and crosses
upon the walls, as if expecting divine intervention, by this means, in
their favour. The governor, Romanus, counselling surrender, was
deposed as a traitor, and another put in his place. Smarting under
the double insult, he resolved to revenge himself by selling the city to
the enemy. Through his treachery many valorous Moslem youths
were introduced into the city, in the garb of ordinary citizens, and
posted in various quarters. At a given signal, the Moslem war-cry,
Allah Akbar, resounded over the city. The defenders were thrown
into confusion, the inhabitants into consternation and despair. The
gates were thrown open, and the city, with little bloodshed, passed
into the hands of the Mohammedans, who retain it still. In the days of
the Crusades it was still an important stronghold, practically the key
to the possession of the eastern provinces. Baldwin III. cast his
forces in vain against the rock-like walls. But the blight of Islâm had
fallen upon it. Gradually its splendour faded; its well-stocked marts
were emptied; the sound of busy footsteps on its pavements died
away; earthquakes shook down its temples and destroyed its public
buildings; no hand was raised to arrest its decay. And now for
centuries it has lain mouldering in mournful ruins under the fierce
heat of the Syrian sun, blackening in the breath of Time. But surely
her season of solitude and desolation must be nearly over. When the
long sabbath of the land is past, new life pulsing in all her furrows,
the hills and vales resounding with the song of the husbandman,
Bozrah must awake from her weary sleep, and put on once again the
pleasing garments of prosperity.
CHAPTER IX
Travellers’ troubles—A corner of the desert—The mirage—
Dangerous wadies—Lunch in the desert—A “blind” guide
—The clerk to the sheyûkh—A milestone—Kalʿat Esdein
—Thirst—The uplands of Gilead—Search for water—A
Bedawy camp—Terrific thunderstorm.
Long before dawn on Monday morning all was bustle and stir in the
camp. We hoped to reach Jerash that evening, but the most
conflicting accounts were given of the distance, varying from three
days to one long day. The usual road runs west to Derʿat, where it
turns southward by way of Remtah. A line direct, across a corner of
the desert, is shorter by perhaps fifteen miles. This we proposed to
take. In that wide empty land, with never a house, haunted by roving
Beduw, a guide was absolutely necessary. With difficulty one was
found who had traversed the way before; but he would go only on
condition that a friend should also go, to accompany him home
again. We were not yet to start, however. A vendor of antiquities
entrusted certain old coins, seals, etc., to our cook, who himself did
business in that line, in the hope that we might buy. A few purchases
were made; but when it came to giving back the remainder, a seal, or
stone from a signet ring, was missing. On this, of course, the owner
put a fancy price. Imagine a company of pilgrims on their knees,
turning up stones and groping in the dust as earnestly as rag-pickers
on a heap! The toil was fruitless. The cook was told that suspicion
attached to himself; and that if the seal were not forthcoming, the
owner should have his price, the same to be duly deducted from the
cook’s wages. With an injured air that plainly meant “What shall we
hear next?” the worthy ʿAbdu resumed his search, and soon sprang
to his feet with the lost seal in his hand. Throwing himself down, he
kissed the ground, then casting his eyes upward he fervently
exclaimed, el-hamdulillah, “Praise be to God!” The owner seemed
least pleased of all. Tying up his treasure in the corner of a napkin,
he marched sullenly away, grieving doubtless over ʿAbdu’s provoking
luck.
At last our guide strode off before us, leaving his companion to fetch
the muleteers, who, we hoped, might pass us at lunch. We struck the
Roman road which runs to the south-west, not that which leads more
to the south, past Umm el-Jamâl to Kalʿat ez-Zerka. The pavement
on these great highways is hard on the horses’ hoofs. The track
used to-day almost invariably lies alongside the road. Crossing a
shallow vale, we entered a vast plain, covered with tufts of wiry
grass. The beautiful iris was here also in plenty. The view offered
little variety save on the horizons. Salchad, Jebel el-Kuleib, and the
dark range of which they are part loomed away on the north-east.
Northward lay el-Lejâʾ and the mountains that overlook Damascus.
The white splendour of Hermon filled the north-western sky. A light
haze half-concealed the hills of Jaulân and the highlands of Galilee,
but nearly due west we could see the round head of Tabor. Before us
lay the wooded hills of Jebel ʿAjlûn, the land of Gilead, while the
plain stretched away to the south-east, desert-wards, as far as the
eye could reach.
Several times during this desert ride we saw the mirage—now as
waving trees, now as dimly outlined houses, with the sheen of water
near. Happily we had supplies of water with us, and so were spared
the torture these fleeting visions bring to the weary and the thirsty.
The mirage is often seen in the plain of el-Bukaʿ, or Coele Syria.
One most perfect and beautiful I saw in the neighbourhood of Tell
Hûm, from a roof in Tiberias. It proved to be a picture of Tiberias
itself, with ruined castle, broken walls, white-domed mosque, and
palm trees, photographed upon the mists some nine miles away.
We crossed several little wadies in which the water from winter and
spring rains had not quite dried up. The passage of these “brooks” is
not always free from danger. The soft soil goes to thick black mud,
when saturated with the water of the stream. Several of our party
had narrow escapes from accident, the horses sinking to the saddle-
girths, and struggling through only with desperate efforts, very
unsettling to the riders. In the deepest and broadest of these hollows
we found a green-carpeted meadow, with a few Bedawy tents. The
moment we came in sight a woman ran out to meet us, with
hospitable welcome, bringing a large dish of buttermilk, from which
we drank heartily and were refreshed.
At this point I was some distance behind the party, detained in
digging a root from the hard soil. On the north of the wady lay a
rough hill, strewn with great boulders. Galloping up, I saw two figures
with long guns dodging behind the rocks, furtively glancing in my
direction, and clearly making to intercept me in the wady. A few
steps farther, and they caught sight of our party, who fortunately
were not very far away. They at once turned and made off to
eastward, so sparing me what might have been at least an
unpleasant brush with Arabs in search of plunder. Probably they
were of the company at whose tents we met such kindness. The
man who will lay down his life to protect you when you have passed
under his roof may think you “fair game” if he finds you in the open.
This wady we passed early in the day, and thereafter we saw neither
stream, fountain, nor cistern through all the long burning hours.
Coming to what looked like an old burying-ground in the middle of
the plain, we halted for lunch, and waited for the muleteers. Two
hours passed before the “baggage train” appeared, from which we
judged that they had lost their way. Anxiety on their behalf could not
blind us to the almost certain futility of any search. Our decision to
wait in the somewhat conspicuous position we occupied and give
them a chance to find us was amply justified by the result. With
hands and face protected from the sun as best might be, we
stretched ourselves on the earth, and perhaps all indulged in the
luxury of “forty winks.” As time wore on, some sought entertainment
in trials of strength, agility, and skill—this last by shooting balls at a
stone set up a hundred yards away. The shot, even with a smooth
bore, was not alarmingly difficult; but when the stone toppled over,
the Arabs who were with us stood amazed. They might have done
as well themselves, but had not dreamed of Franjies shooting
straight. There is an impression abroad that Franjies are on the
whole rather helpless people, able perhaps to read and write. But
these are despicable attainments, save, indeed, when the former
may guide to the discovery of hid treasure!
Our baggage-men had wandered, much against their own will and
judgment, yielding to the head-strong ignorance of the man told off to
guide them. When his incompetence was plainly manifest, with
contemptuous anger they dismissed him, some bidding him hold by
his mother until he could walk alone, and others suggesting that
perhaps his wife needed him about the house. Then trusting their
own instinct, which, in these “sons of the highway” approaches
genius, they proceeded to find the road for themselves. The long
delay, however, destroyed all hope of seeing Jerash that night.
Soon after starting again we were joined by a bright, talkative youth,
who told us he was at work among the Beduw. He knew the various
tribes and their locations, and was familiar with most of the country.
He came from el-Judeideh, the summer station of the Sidon
American Mission, which overlooks Merj Aʿyûn, the ancient “Ijon,”
from the north-west. This village supplies many of the brave, light-
hearted fellows who drive their hardy beasts with the necessaries of
life through all parts of the land. Most mukaries (“muleteers”) have a
wholesome dread of the Lower Jordan Valley, but the men of el-
Judeideh may be seen there almost any day, swinging along with
careless ease, as much at home as on the slope of their native
mountain. This youth was accustomed to visit these parts every
spring, acting as Kâtib (“Secretary”) among the Bedawy chiefs, at the
time of division and arrangement of flocks. He assisted at bargains,
wrote out contracts, registered numbers, etc.; for these barbarous
sheyûkh, while holding it infra dig. for an Arab to write, quite realise
the value of “black and white” in a bargain. He busied himself for
some months, passing from tribe to tribe, and with advancing
summer turned again to his upland home. He assured us that Jerash
could not be reached that night, and urged us to turn aside with him
to a great Bedawy encampment, where we should find heartiest
welcome and plentiful entertainment. We lived to regret our refusal;
and, after all, we must have slept within an hour of the spot he
indicated—probably with a smaller branch of the same tribe. Our
guide vowed that water would be found on the edge of the plain, so
we judged it best to push on straight towards our goal. The lad bade
us gaily farewell, put spurs to his steed, and galloped away towards
a black patch at the base of the hills to westward, where no doubt
stood the Arabs’ “houses of hair.” A curl of smoke over an apparently
ruinous village away to the north-west was due, our guide said, to
the presence of Circassians, a number of whom had recently taken
possession and were attempting to cultivate the surrounding soil. If
any men could succeed, they should have a good chance. We shall
meet them again at Jerash.