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My American History
Sarah Schulman’s writing is bold, provocative, and refreshingly
unrepentant. First published in 1994, My American History: Lesbian and
Gay Life During the Reagan and Bush Years combines critical commentary
with a rich and varied collection of news articles, letters, interviews,
and reports in which the author traces the development of
lesbian and gay politics in the U.S. In her coverage of many tireless
campaigns of activism and resistance, Sarah Schulman documents
a powerful political history that most people – gay or straight – never
knew happened.
In her Preface to this second edition, Urvashi Vaid argues for
the continued relevance of Schulman’s writing to activism in the
21st century, particularly in light of the resurgence of the right
in American politics. Also included is a selection of articles by
Sarah Schulman for Womanews, in their original print format, with
illustrations by Alison Bechdel. The book closes with an interview
with the author, conducted by Steven Thrasher, especially for this
new edition. It explores AIDS and homophobia during the Reagan/
Bush administrations and at the dawn of the Trump era.
My American History is a collection that gives voice to both the
personal and political struggles of feminist and lesbian and gay
communities in the 1980s. It is an important historical record
that will enlighten and inform activists, as well as academics of
women’s, gender and sexuality studies, in the 21st century.
Second Edition
Sarah Schulman
Second edition published 2019
by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 4RN
and by Routledge
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017
Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa
business
© 2019 Sarah Schulman
The right of Sarah Schulman to be identified as author
of this work has been asserted by her in accordance
with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or
by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now
known or hereafter invented, including photocopying
and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval
system, without permission in writing from the
publishers.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be
trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only
for identification and explanation without intent to
infringe.
First edition published by Routledge 1994
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the
British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Schulman, Sarah, 1958– author.
Title: My American history : lesbian and gay life during
the Reagan and Bush years / Sarah Schulman.
Description: Second edition. | Abingdon, Oxon ;
New York, NY : Routledge, 2018. | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2018009721| ISBN 9781138563506
(hardback : alk. paper) | ISBN 9781138563513
(pbk. : alk. paper) | ISBN 9781315121765 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Homosexuality—Political aspects—
United States. | Lesbians—Political activity—United
States. | Feminism—United States. | United States—
Social policy—1980–1993.
Classification: LCC HQ76.3.U5 S38 2018 | DDC
306.76/60973—dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018009721
Womanews Monthly feminist newspaper, with an emphasis on the lesbian community. Volunteer
collective. Writers include Jewelle Gomez, Peg Byron, Paula Martinac, Vendora Cora-
zon, and many others.
Gay Community News Boston-based weekly newspaper. One of the first and only to serve men and
women. News from a gay left perspective. Writers include Michael Bronski, Sue
Hyde, Liz Galst, Scott Tucker, Elisabeth Pincus, Eric Rofes, Urvashi Vaid, Richard
Burns, Cindy Patton, and many others. Minimal paid staff. Always on the verge of
bankruptcy.
The New York Native The oldest gay newspaper in New York City, published by Charles Ortleb. Highly controversial
for its political conservatism and white, male hegemony. Long a hotbed of contested views
about AIDS. Early opponent of AZT and of ACT UP. Writers have included Marcia Pally, Daryl
Yates Rist, Patrick Merla, Sally Chew, Anne Christine D’Adesky, David France, Craig Harris,
Anne Fettner, and many more.
Off Our Backs Oldest surviving feminist newspaper in America. Based in Washington, D.C. Known for
conference coverage and disorganized design. In the late seventies and early eighties
it served as a forum for national feminist debate. Writers include Charlotte Bunch,
Adrienne Rich, Tacie DeJanikus, Carole Ann Douglas, and many, many more.
Seattle Gay News Community-based weekly newspaper for women and men.
The Village Voice Weekly newspaper with progressive origins, now straddling both sides of the balance
sheets. Entrenched, stratified, gay and lesbian staff often at odds with community
activists and community-based publications. Often the only available forum for discus-
sion of gay and lesbian issues. Only mainstream publication to take gay and lesbian
artists seriously.
The Nation Left newsweekly with token (at best) gay and AIDS coverage.
Outweek Short lived but controversial weekly magazine – first to combine gay politics with
popular design due to art director Maria Perez. Failed to represent women and people
of color. Driven out of business due to dubious financing. Writers included Michelan-
gelo Signorile, Gabriel Rotelo, Sarah Petit, and Vicki Starr, among others.
Interview Glossy, groovy, up-to-scale gossip sheet founded by Andy Warhol.
Outlook Quarterly gay and lesbian cultural publication out of San Francisco, attempting to
address gender and racial issues as well as generic gay ones. Had its great moments.
Writers included Jackie Goldsby, Jeff Escoffier, Alan Berube, Cherrie Moraga, and
many more.
The Guardian The last of the Marxist weeklies. Scattered and peripheral gay and lesbian coverage
until the last minute when it became unavoidable. Folded.
Cineaste Quarterly progressive film magazine.
The Guardian of London One of Britain’s three daily newspapers.
QW Gay weekly that replaced Outweek. Even more upscale – competing with Details and
GQ for the white male gay reader. Later called NYQ. Writers included Maer Roshan,
Avril MacDonald, Walter Armstrong, Helen Eisenbach, Ann Northrop, and many others.
Lambda Book Report Gay book review published by Lambda Rising Bookstore in Washington, D.C. Sponsor of
the Lammies – the only book awards available to openly gay and lesbian books.
C ontents
Acknowledgements ix
Preface to the Second Edition by Urvashi Vaid x
Foreword to the First Edition by Urvashi Vaid xv
Preface to the First Edition: My Life as an
American Artist xviii
Introduction 1
vii
Heal Thyself (New York Native) —157; Jean Genet (New York Native) —
161; Third World Gays Important Presence at Anti-Apartheid March (New
York Native) —163; Is Lesbian Culture Only for Beginners? (New York Native)
—165; Wake-Up, AIDS Hysteria Will Change Your Life (Womanews) —170
1987 Queens Triumph at Waldorf-Astoria Bash (Seattle Gay News) —174
1988 W
omen Need Not Apply: Institutional Discrimination in AIDS Drug Trials
(Village Voice) —176; Thousands May Die in the Streets: AIDS and the
Homeless (The Nation) —180; The Left and Passionate Homosexuality:
Presented at the Socialist Scholars’ Conference (Gay Community News)
—185; Children and AIDS: Debate Stirred over Placebo Tests (New York
Native) —188; Taking Responsibility: Co-Dependence and the Myth of
Recovery by Kay Hagen (Outweek) —191
1990 A
IDS and the Responsibility of the Writer (Address, Outwrite) —194;
Outing: The Closet is Not a Right (Village Voice) —198; Is the NEA Good
for Gay Art? (Outweek) —199; Eileen Myles (Interview) —204
1991 W
hat Ideals Guide Our Actions? (Outlook) —206; Delusions of Gender
(Village Voice) —211; Whatever Happened to Lesbian Activism? (Address,
The Lesbian and Gay Center) —216; Why I Fear the Future (in Critical
Fictions) —220; Laying the Blame: What Magic Johnson Really Means
(Guardian) —223; Thelma, Louise, and the Movie Management of Rape
(Cineaste) —226
1992 F ame, Shame, and Kaposi’s Sarcoma: New Themes in Lesbian and Gay Film
(Address) —228; Consumed by Neglect: Who is to Blame for the TB
Epidemic? (Village Voice) —233; The Denial of AIDS and the Construction of
a Fake Life (Address, Outwrite) —236; Tokyo Rose (QW) —241; Coming to
Terms: An Interview with Carole DeSanti (Lambda Book Report) —247;
What Is the Role of Gay Film Festivals? (Address) —253; I Was a Lesbian
Child —256; Why I’m Not a Revolutionary (Address, The Publishing
Triangle) —258; Letter to Jennifer Dunning (Turn-Out) —265
1993 U
nited Colors of Homophobia (The Nation) —269; A Modest Proposal
(Outwrite) —272
viii
A cknowledgements
ix
P reface to the second edition
by Urvashi Vaid
x
preface preface preface preface preface Preface preface
xi
history My american history my american history my american
xii
preface preface preface preface preface Preface preface
xiii
history My american history my american history my american
Notes
1 Baldwin, James, “The Black Boy Looks at the White Boy,” The Price of The
Ticket: Collected Nonfiction 1948–1985 (New York: St. Martins Press, 1985),
p. 290.
2 Baldwin, James, “No Name in the Street,” in The Price of The Ticket, supra,
p. 494.
xiv
F oreword to the first edition
by Urvashi Vaid
xv
history My american history my american history my american for
defunct like Womanews and the old Gay Community News), as well as
pieces prepared for conferences and meetings. Most of the events
covered were largely unnoticed by the “mainstream” press and poorly
reported even by “alternative” media. The succinct commentary after
each piece updates the events discussed, and provides a broader
context for them. This book collects only a fraction of Sarah’s actual
nonfiction work—some 50 of more than 200 pieces.
Schulman’s reporting takes us back to the lesbian-led Seneca
Women’s peace encampment, the raid on the New York City bar
Blues in 1983, the closing of the bathhouses in 1985, the dyke-
baiting and defunding of the National Coalition Against Sexual
Assault by Ed Meese, the direct action in Congress in 1983 to
protest the Human Life Amendment restricting abortion, the
1991 Outwrite conference, the Dyke March at the 1993 March on
Washington, and much more.
Reading these pieces is both energizing and sobering. It’s energizing
because Sarah’s writing is so provocative. It provoked me to underline
emphatically (“in a way the sex wars really saved the grass-roots from
total co-optation”), to disagree furiously (with her analysis of the NEA
battle), and to question old assumptions (that direct action may have
had its heyday). The work is full of opinion, and powerfully argued.
Sarah is an original and rigorous political analyst. She writes with a
confidence that leaves her insights ringing like bells in your head.
The book is also sobering, because in the act of remembering
the past, Sarah Schulman exposes how much of it is lost forever.
Yesterday’s political activists are remembered today only by the
handful of us who happened to work with them. Organizations
come and go, activists die, and defeats or internecine battles burn
passionate people out.
Queer, lesbian, and bisexual radicals especially have a skimpy his-
torical context in which to place themselves. There are only a dozen
histories, and even fewer which cover the direct action, street activist,
lesbian-feminist, or left gay movements. We have little record of the
fact that every city has a significant gay American history—tales of
individuals who fought the police, the media, the government, and
the church in virtually every town in this nation. This book makes a
huge contribution to closing this gap.
In these shifty times, when conservative values monopolize
all cultural discourse, when a theocratic state is embraced by Bill
Clinton and the religious fanatics on the right, when it feels like the
gay and lesbian movement slouches towards Republicanism to
xvi
foreword foreword foreword foreword foreword Fo r e w o r d fore
xvii
pr
I was born in 1958 in New York City. From childhood I was emotion-
ally a social realist. My mother was a social worker and a modernist.
She had reproductions of Diego Rivera and Moses Soyer on the
walls. My sister and I put on leotards and the three of us did mod-
ern dance on the floor of our apartment. The first books I read had
memorable lines like “Good Night, Moon. Good Night, Red Balloon.”
and “What Do Daddies Do All Day? Daddies Work While Children
Play.” I was read to at night before I fell asleep. We received books as
rewards.
My grandmother Dora Yevish gave me unconditional love. In
Tarnopl, Austro-Hungary she had been a Zionist and a Socialist. She
came to America at the age of twenty-one and married my grandpa
Charlie three months later. She spent the rest of her life working in
laundries, theirs and other people’s. My grandmother had lost two
sisters and two brothers to a combination of Nazis and Russians. The
tailor sewing in the window across the street had a number on his
arm. We bought our clothing in a store in Brooklyn run by people
who had all been in the same concentration camp. I was only size
6X so the numbers on their forearms were eye level for me. One of
the first real books I remember receiving was The Diary of Anne Frank
purchased at the Eighth Street Bookshop. It was intended, I think, to
remind me of my historical burden, my place as a Jew. But, simul-
taneously, it taught me that Jewish girls can be writers. In my diary,
at the age of six, I wrote, “When I grow up I will write books.” I threw
that diary away.
I wrote all through my girlhood. I wrote a history of baseball. I
wrote plays for Hanukkah which my younger brother and sister
enacted, often under duress. I made newspapers about the family,
about the neighborhood. I only read books from the history sec-
tion at my school library. I was an intellectual and a leader from
the age of four. I was a troublemaker, an underachiever, creative,
a behavior problem. I took myself seriously. In kindergarten Peter
xviii
preface preface preface My life as an american artist preface
xix
history My american history my american history my american pr
xx
preface preface preface My life as an american artist preface
changed the name to “The Poet As Outsider.” She told us, “That you
can’t fight City Hall is a rumor being circulated by City Hall.” I applied
for a Fulbright in Jewish Studies to Belgium because I had a lover in
Belgium. Maxine told me to check “Yes” next to the question “Do you
have a BA?” So I did. I got the Fulbright. I went to Empire State College,
desperately trying to get a BA, submitting my novel and articles for
credit. I went to Belgium and was miserable. I broke up with my girl-
friend and wrote another novel. This time the writing was different.
I suddenly realized that word order had some meaning and wrote
Girls, Visions and Everything which is still my favorite. It was all about the
lesbian boyhood, identifying with Jack Kerouac and life in New York
City the summer before Reagan’s re-election. Naiad hated it because
it had no plot. Somehow all that theater, performance, postmodern
dance and improvisational new music had had its impact. It was
published by Seal Press in 1986.
I came back to New York and resumed working as a waitress
with Robin at Leroy’s Coffee Shop in Tribeca. I waited on Mere-
dith Monk, Yvonne Rainer, and David Lynch. Meredith was doing
a cabaret piece called Turtle Dreams, and she invited the waitresses
at Leroy’s to be the waitresses. I watched that piece every single
night. Someone told me to apply to the MacDowell Colony, so I
did. I waitressed until the day I got there and I waitressed the day
after I returned, but those two weeks absolutely changed my life. I
was in the middle of my third novel and had still never really met
another novelist. I had no idea that I was an artist. At MacDowell
I met composers, painters, and fell in love with an experimen-
tal filmmaker. I came home and watched films for the next seven
years. Jim Hubbard and I founded the Lesbian and Gay Experimen-
tal Film Festival. I joined ACT UP. I started to write for the Voice.
A girl I didn’t know stopped me in the health food store and told
me that a friend of hers was an out lesbian and a senior editor at a big
publisher and I should call her. I went to the corner and called her. She
told me to come over and bring my manuscript. Three days later she
called me and said she wanted it. Her name was Carole DeSanti. The
novel was After Delores. Writing that book was an exercise in honesty.
I admitted to the full range of human emotions—including jealousy
and rage. I also admitted that words could be put together in a way
that replicates emotions instead of describing them.
When Dutton published the novel in 1988 I surpassed every
dream and goal that I had ever set up for myself. I was not born into
a world where openly lesbian novels could be the stuff of careers.
It was a choice between the two, or so I thought, and I made that
xxi
history My american history my american history my american pr
xxii
preface preface preface My life as an american artist preface
Author’s note: Some articles have been slightly changed for clarity, readability, or to reinstate ini-
tial drafts before they were dramatically altered for publication by a variety of anonymous editors.
xxiii
I ntroduction
1
history My american history my american history my american t i o
Yet, Ronald Reagan was just around the corner. The starting
point for this collection is the week of Ronald Reagan’s inauguration
into the presidency of the United States—January 20, 1981. Despite
the youthful enthusiasm of my early writing, reviewing these events
from the perspective from which they were experienced provides
dramatic evidence, almost twelve years and three presidential terms
later, of how unprepared we were for the ravages of Reaganism.
Cold War high school history classes had convinced my generation
to expect neat scenarios, somewhat along the lines of Invasion of the
Body Snatchers, in which oppressive regimes come to power over-
night and are just as easily replaced. I don’t think that many of us
anticipated the systematic deprivation of services, the increasingly
precise determination of who would live and who would die. Nor
did we understand the massive propaganda campaigns that were
to be conducted through the corporate media to normalize these
conditions in the mind of the public. The manipulation of the public
through advertising is as American as home-ownership and house-
wives, but the movements for freedom did not really articulate an
understanding of the impact of advertising and T.V. “news” on Ameri-
can “opinion” until the sixties. This critique was still primitive when
Reagan came to power.
2
t i o n i n t r o d u c t i o n i n t r o d u c t i o n In t r o d u c t i o n i n t r o
3
history My american history my american history my american t i o
4
Another random document with
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white onion, 125
Oxford brawn, 137
common oyster, 114
good oyster, 114
piquante, 118
common pudding, 402
delicious German pudding, 403
pine-apple pudding, 405
pine-apple syrup, 405
punch, for sweet puddings, 402
sweet pudding, 404
raspberry, 404
remoulade, 137
Robert, 118
shrimp, 115
common sorrel, 120
Soubise, 126
Soubise (French receipt), 126
Spanish, 100
sweet, for venison, 100
Tartar, 143
common tomata, 123
a finer tomata, 124
tournée, or thickened pale gravy, 105
excellent turnip, 127
very common white, 111
English white, 111
wine sauces, 402
French white, or béchamel, 107
vegetable marrow, fine, 127
velouté (obs.), 107
Sauces, to thicken, 105
green, for colouring, 129
Saucisses aux truffes, or truffled sausages 263
Saunders, 270
Sausage-meat, cake of, 261
in chicken-pie, 353
Kentish, 261
to make, 261, 262
pounded, very good, 262
boned turkey, filled with, 268
Sausages, boiled, 262
and chestnuts (an excellent dish), 262
common, 261
excellent, 262
truffled, 263
Sauté pan, for frying, 176
Savoury toasts, 390
Scientific roasting, 171
Scotch marmalade, 528
Scottish shortbread, excellent, 557
Sea-kale to boil, 316
stewed in gravy (entremets), 316
Sea-pheasant, or pintail, to roast, 294
Sefton, a, or veal custard, 362
Shad, Touraine fashion, 79
Shrimp sauce, 115
Shrimps, to boil, 93
boudinettes of, 92
potted, 306
to shell quickly and easily, 93
Sippets à la Reine, 5
fried, 4
Sirloin of beef, to roast, 184
Smelts to bake, 78
to fry, 77
Snipes to roast, 293
Snow-balls, orange, 420
apple, 421
Soles, baked, or au plat, 66
baked, a simple receipt, 66
to boil, 64
to choose, 48
fillets of, 65
to fry, 64
stewed in cream, 67
Solimemne, a, or rich French breakfast cake, 549
Soufflé, Louise Franks’ citron, 378
cheese, 379
Soufflé-pan, 377
Soufflés, remarks on, 377
Sounds, cods’, to boil, 63
to fry in batter, 63
Soup, apple, 21
artichoke, or Palestine, 19
good calf’s head, not expensive, 27
Buchanan carrot, 46
common carrot, 20
a finer carrot, 20
carrot, maigre, 45
chestnut, 19
cocoa-nut, 19
cucumber, 38
fish, cheap, 46
des Galles, 28
clear pale gravy, or consommé, 10
another gravy, 10
cheap clear gravy, 11
superlative hare, 32
a less expensive hare, 32
in haste, 43
à la Julienne, 38
Mademoiselle Jenny Lind’s (authentic receipt), 16
the Lord Mayor’s, 17
the Lord Mayor’s (author’s receipt for), 18
maccaroni, 13
milk, with vermicelli, 44
mock turtle, 25
old-fashioned mock turtle, 26
mullagatawny, 35
vegetable mullagatawny, 37
mutton stock for soups, 16
ox-tail, 42
white oyster, or oyster-soup à la Reine, 30
parsnep, 22
another parsnep, 22
partridge, 35
common peas, 41
peas, without meat, 42
rich peas, 41
cheap green peas, 40
an excellent green peas, 39
green peas, without meat, 39
pheasant, 33
another pheasant, 34
potage aux nouilles, or taillerine soup, 14
potage à la Reine, 29
potato, 21
rabbit, à la Reine, 31
brown rabbit, 31
rice, 14
cheap rice, 44
rice flour, 15
white rice, 15
sago, 14
sausage (Swedish receipt), 577
semola and soujee, 13
semoulina, 12
semoulina (or soup à la Semoule), 12
a cheap and good stew, 43
spring, 38
taillerine, 14
tapioca, 14
economical turkey, 33
common turnip, 21
a quickly made turnip, 21
turtle, mock, 23
mock turtle, old-fashioned, 26
vermicelli (or potage au vermicelle), 12
stock for white, 15
Westerfield white, 22
a richer white, 23
Soups, directions to the cook for, 2
to fry bread to serve with, 5
ingredients used for making, 1
nouilles to serve in, 5
mutton stock for, 16
to thicken, 4
time required for boiling down, 4
vegetable vermicelli for, 5
Spanish sauce, or Espagnole, 100
sauce, with wine, 100
Spiced beef, 199
Spinach, à l’Anglaise, or English fashion, 317
common English modes of dressing, 317
French receipt for, 316
green, for colouring sweet dishes, &c., 455
dandelions dressed like, 318
Sprouts, &c., to boil, 332
Steaming, general directions for, 172
Stewed beef-steak, 189
beef-steak, in its own gravy, 189
beet-root, 340
cabbage, 333
calf’s feet, 228
calf’s liver, 228
carp, 82
celery, 341
cod-fish, 62
cucumber, 323
eels, 84
figs, 492
fillet of mutton, 238
fruits (various), 456-459
hare, 286
lamb cutlets, 246
leg of lamb with white sauce, 243
loin of lamb in butter, 246
lettuces, 319
mackerel, in wine, 72
fillets of mackerel in wine (excellent), 72
mutton cutlets in their own gravy, 240
onions, 342
ox-tails, 195
ox, or beef tongue (Bordyke receipt), 203
oysters, 86
sea-kale in gravy, 316
soles in cream, 67
tomatas, 327
trout, 80
turnips in butter, 334
turnips in gravy, 335
knuckle of veal, with rice or green peas, 221
shoulder of veal, 219
shoulder of venison, 283
Stew, a good English, 191
a good family, 242
a German, 190
an Irish, 242
baked Irish, 243
Spring stew of veal, 224
a Welsh, 191
Stew, to, shin of beef, 192
a rump of beef, 194
Stewing, general directions for, 173
Stewpan, copper, 181
Stock, clear pale, 11
for white soup, 13
mutton, for soups, 14
shin of beef for gravies, 97
pot, 169
Store sauces, 145-155
Strawberries, to preserve, for flavouring creams, &c., 506
Strawberry vinegar, 577
jam, 504
jelly, 505
isinglass jelly, 468
tartlets, 375
vinegar, of delicious flavour, 577
Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt), 615
Stuffing for geese and ducks, No. 9, 160
Cook’s stuffing for geese and ducks, 161
Suédoise, or apple hedgehog, 480
Suédoise of peaches, 488
Suet crust, for pies, superior, 348
common, 348
Sugar glazings, and icings, for fine pastry and cakes, 543
barley, 564
grains, to colour, for cakes, &c., 542
to boil, from candy to caramel, 563
to clarify, 562
Swan’s egg, to boil, 448
forced, 447
en salade, 448
Sweetbreads, to dress, 227
à la Maître d’Hôtel, 227
cutlets, 227
small entrées of, 232
roasted, 215
Sweet, patties à la minute, 387
Syllabub, a birthday, 581
Syllabubs, superior whipped, 476
Syrup, fine currant, or sirop de groseilles, 579
Tamarinds, acid, in curries, 296
Tapioca soup, 14
Tarragon vinegar, 151
Tart, a good apple, 363
young green apple, 364
barberry, 364
German, 362
the monitor’s, 370
Tartlets, of almond paste, 367
creamed, 375
jelly, or custards, 375
to make, 361
lemon, 372
strawberry, 375
Tarts, to ice, 345
Tench, to fry, 83
Thickening for sauces, French, 106
Tipsy cake, 474
Toasting, directions for, 183
Toffee, Everton, 567
another way, 567
Tomata catsup, 151
sauces, 123, 124
Tomatas, forced, 327
forced (French receipt), 328
purée of, 328
roast, 327
en salade, 327
stewed, 327
Tongue, to boil, 203
to stew, 203
Tongues, to pickle, 197
Tourte, à la châtelaine, 364
the lady’s, 364
meringuée, or with royal icing, 363
Trifle, brandy, or tipsy cake, 474
an excellent, 473
Swiss, very good, 473
Trout, to stew (a good common receipt), 80
in wine, 80
Truffled butter, 139
sausages, 263
Truffles and their uses, 331
à l’Italienne, 332
à la serviette, 232
to prepare for use, 332
Turbot, to boil, 56
au béchamel, 57
cold, with shrimp chatney, 144
à la crême, 57
Turkey, to boil, 267
boned and forced, 268
to bone, 265
à la Flamande, 270
to roast, 267
poult, to roast, 270
Turkeys’ eggs, to dress, 447
forced (excellent entremets) 447
poached, 449
sauce of, 110
Turnip-radishes, to boil, 318
soup, economical, 33
Turnips, to boil, 333
to mash, 333
stewed in butter, 334
in gravy, 335
in white sauce 334
Vanilla in cream, pudding, &c., 410
Veal, blanquette of, with mushrooms, 229
boiled breast of, 218
roast breast of, 219
breast of, simply stewed, 618 (see note)
breast of, stewed and glazed, 618
cake, Bordyke, 222
cake, small pain de veau, or veal, 222
to choose, 209
Scotch collops of, 226
custard, or Sefton, 362
cutlets, 225
cutlets, or collops, à la Française, 226
cutlets, à l’Indienne, or Indian fashion, 225
cutlets, à la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 226
divisions of, 209
boiled fillet of, 217
roast fillet of, 216
fillet of, au bechamel, with oysters, 216
fricandeau of, 223
fricasseed, 231
goose (City of London receipt), 220
Norman harrico of, 224
boiled knuckle of, 221
knuckle of, en ragout, 221
knuckle of, with rice or green peas, 221
boiled loin of, 218
roast loin of, 217
stewed loin of, 218
minced, 230
minced, with oysters (or mushrooms), 231
neck of, à la crême, 220
neck of, roast, 220
to bone a shoulder of, 219
stewed shoulder of, 219
spring stew of, 224
Sydney, 231
Vegetable marrow, to boil, fry, mash, 327
vermicelli, 6
Vegetables, to boil green, 309
to clear insects from, 309
remarks on, 308
Venetian cake (super excellent), 547
fritters (very good), 383
Venison, to choose, 281
collops and cutlets, 284
to hash, 284
to roast a haunch of, 282
in pie, 352
sauces for, 295
to stew a loin of mutton like, 239
to stew a shoulder of, 283
Vermicelli pudding, 439
soup, 12
Viennese pudding, or Salzburger Nockerl, 620
Vinegar, cayenne, 153
celery, 152
cucumber, 152
eschalot, or garlic, 152
horseradish, 153
green mint, 152
raspberry (very fine), 578
strawberry (delicious), 577
tarragon, 151
Vol-au-vent, a, 357
à la crème, 358
of fruit, 358
Vols-au-vents, à la Parisienne, 374
small, to make, 361
Walnut catsup, 149-150
Walnuts, to pickle, 536
salad of, 141
Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt), 78
White bait (Greenwich receipt), 78
Whitings baked, À la Française, 68
baked (Cinderella’s receipt), 70
to boil, 68
to fry, 67
fillets of, 68
Wild ducks, to roast, and their season, 294
salmi, or hash of, 294
Wild fowl, its season, 294
Wine, elderberry (good), 584
eschalot, 153
ginger, 584
to mull (an excellent French receipt), 581
orange, 585
raisin, which resembles foreign, 583
Wine-vase, antique, 577
Wire lining for frying-pan, 177
Woodcocks, or snipes, to roast, 293
Woodruff, in Mai Trank, 620
Yorkshire ploughman’s salad, 315
pudding, common, 441
pudding, good, 440
Regent potatoes, their excellence, 311
[TN: Footnote text is not allowed within the range of the Index.
Clicking on the footnote numbers below will take you to the index
entries that reference these footnotes.]
194. Though not included in this list, all sweet puddings are served as entremets,
except they replace the roasts of the second course.
195. Fish is not usually served as an entrée in a common English dinner; it is,
however, very admissible, either in fillets, or scallops, in a currie, or in a vol-
au-vent. Various circumstances must determine much of the general
arrangement of a dinner, the same dishes answering at times for different
parts of the service. For example, a fowl may be served as the roast for a
small company, and for a large one as an entrée. For a plain family dinner,
too, many dishes may be served in a different order to that which is set
down.
BIOGRAPHICAL WORKS.