Sorting and Gradation

Sorting and gradation of raw
hides and skins

Dr. Md. Abdulla-Al-Mamun
Department of Leather Engineering
Principle of grading
Sources: International Trade Centre - eBook - Leather Guidebook
• There is a general basis of a global selection standard. It is based on
natural defects, manmade defects, size, shape and weight. The
application of this general standard with the quantification of the
defects per grade depends on each individual country. Climatical
and environmental conditions play an important role for gradation.
The better these conditions are the lower is the number of defects
per grade.
• The first step in tanning is grading the hides, and sorting them into
packs of uniform size, weight and type.
• If hides within one country but from different areas distinguish one
from another, it is obvious that hides from different continents and
different climates have significant differences.
• It is virtually impossible to list all the characteristics of each origin
and thus a table that highlights the differences between origins is
impossible to develop.
2
• There isn’t a type of animal in the world, that doesn’t or hasn’t
provided the basic material for the production of leather.
• The list is far to long to report, but generically speaking mammals
like bovines, goat, sheep, any sort of wildlife, reptiles, fish and
birds, all provide us with a hide or skin, that can be processed
into leather.
• Each area has its own typical breed of animals, which goes hand
in hand with the local climate and habitat.
• Hides and skins are structurally different when originating from
hot or cold, from dry or humid climates.
• Generally speaking healthy animals provide for good quality
hides or skins, whereas animals from dry areas with little food
produce low quality hides and skins.
• Animals that are well fed produce thicker and better hides than
their brothers or sisters that are just able to survive.
3
• Each production area is characterised also by its environment
and by the local laws or habits.
• Dry bushy areas with lots of insects will provide for skins with
scratch and insect bite scars.
• Countries where cattle or small ruminants (example a cow,
sheep, or deer) are kept apart by barbed wire will produce hides
and skins with scars from wounds caused by the barbed wire.
• Hides and skins from life stock that has been treated with
pharmaceuticals against illnesses and parasites are better than
hides from life stock that is untreated.
• Hides from fallen animals that have died from natural causes and
hence have not been bleed, are different from hides that have
been produced by slaughter, because in a fallen animal the blood
remains in the veins whereas in slaughtered animals the veins
are practically void of blood.
4
• Hides of female animals are usually finer-grained than the
male and the fibre structure looser, especially in the flanks,
giving a somewhat softer, stretcher leather.
• The less hair or wool there is on the animal the tougher and
stronger the resultant skin, especially the grain of the skin.
• The younger the animal the thinner and smaller the skin, the
smoother and finer the grain structure and less likelihood of
damage by diseases, scratches, sores, insects, mites, etc.
• The more natural the feeding and living conditions, the better
quality. For example, over-feeding gives greasier, weaker
skins and starvation thin, weak, misshapen skins showing
skeleton markings.
5
Bangladesh respects
• About 90% of cattle of Bangladesh are of non-descript and
indigenous in origin with low productivity compared to other
existing exotic breeds and their crosses, but they are well adapted
in the tropical harsh environment, have ability to maintain their
body condition on poor quality feed stuffs and are well resistant
to local diseases.
• Red Chittagong cattle found in the Chittagong district (Chittagong
coastal plain zone) having distinct identity with attractive Red
body color, delicious milk and meat compared to other indigenous
make them top preferred in that region.
• In terms of big body size and good milk production Pabna type
cattle are found in the northern low-lying basins around the
estuary of Pabna region and Jamuna River.
6
Bangladesh respects
• North Bengal Grey found scatteredly in the northern district of
Bangladesh (Tista meander-flood plain and lower atria basin zone).
They possess good body size and some draft features and famous
as a cart bullock in the market.
• Another improved variety of cattle i.e. Munshiganj type mostly of
creamy to dull pinkish coat color with milk type body conformation
and have great demand as milk cow in the surrounding regions.
• Breeding tract of these cattle are characterized as low, flat and
fertile land except the hilly region a bit in the northeast and the
southeast and some areas of high land in the north and
northwestern part. Non-descript Deshi category of cattle are found
everywhere in the country with no definite characteristics and
constitute about 90% of the indigenous cattle.
7
Bangladesh respects
• The non-descript Indigenous cattle of Bangladesh are of Zebu type
(sometimes known as humped cattle or Brahmin cattle) having
developed hump on the shoulders. It is assumed that they have
evolved in this area over the centuries for natural selection and
farmers’ interest on draft power to perform agricultural practices.
• This type (Bangladeshi) hides are light with good pattern and fibre
compactness is very good due to low, flat and fertile Ganges basin
land. A fair number of tick marks are found in some leather. Export
volume is increasing gradually over the years due to reputation of
Bangladesh’s quality grain leather.
• The international business arena are made on the basis of the
widespread reputation of the fine-textured (especially) Black Bengal
Goat skin from the Northern Region of the Bangladesh.
• Bangladeshi goat skin (Specially Kustias goat skins) are the best goat
skins for glazed kid as their grain is fine, substance good and the skins
are free from warble damage.
8
9
10
Fig.: World famous Black Bengal Goat
11
Each type of hide and skin has its own peculiarities because of size,
weight, thickness and grain characteristics which distinguishes each
category one from the other. Just by looking at the grain you can tell a
bovine from a buffalo, a goat, a sheep, a kangaroo, a pig, a horse, a camel,
a deer, a fish etc.
12
Decorative hides and skins distinguish themselves one from another by
the type of hair or wool, and the pattern and colour scheme of the hair or
wool.
13
Grading Standard
• There are no specific standards for grading hides and skins.
Quality standards are vary from one country to another, and
so buyers have to rely on their knowledge and expertise when
placing orders. Some of the criteria used in grading hides and
skins are:
• Type and origin of hide or skin
•Size
• Method of preservation (drying, salting, brining, dry-salting or
cooling)
• Quality (defects such as diseases, brand marks, insects,
parasites, holes, cuts, putrefaction and dirt will lower the
grade)
• Weight
14
Types and origin of hides and skins
• In the terminology of leather industry, the skins of large
animal, such as cattle and horses, are called hides whilst the
term skins is used for the small animals, such as sheep, goats
and calves.
 Indian hides and skins are classified into the following principal
groups (follow 1-4).
 Besides, Lizard, Crocodile, Python, Deer and Snake skins of
various description are also collected and sold, subject to
permission from wild life protections agencies.
1. Cattle Hides:
 In this family are included bulls, cows, oxen, veals and calves.
 The bulls and the cows are respectively full-grown male and
female. Their hides are large and the weighing goes from 16 kg
to 37 kg, bull hides may weigh more.
15
1. Cattle Hides
 The hides of Veals come from younger animals and weight
6,5-11,5 kg. The skins of calves come from young animal and
the weighing goes from 2,5 to 5,5 kg.
 The main difference between calfskins and cattle hides, from
a structural point of view, is the fineness of grain. Calfskins
have a very fine structure as compared to cattle hides and are
useful for the finest of leathers.
 The hides of Zebu or Brama, that is a humped-backed ox, are
relatively small and come from India. They are called kips and
their weighing goes from 9 to 15,5 kg . Their structure is open
and a thin and soft leather results. A great quantity is sold in
vegetable or half-tanneed state or in wet blue.
16
2. Buffalo Hides:
 Generally, the hides are thicker and wrinkled on the
shoulder. They have a coarse grain whilst the fiber
structure is loosened. The hides are exported from
India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal and Indonesia in
dried or vegetable- tanned or in wet blue state..
 The buffalo hides of these areas are usually heavy,
weighing above 45 lbs or 20 kg, in the wet salted
condition and above 22 lbs or 10 kg, in the dry
condition.
 They are suitable for sole leathers of heavy and extra
heavy weights and utilized as such by the local bag
tanners.
17
3. Goat Skins:
 Goatskins, as compared to sheepskins, have a very tight
fiber structure and are easily recognized . They show a
characteristic grain pattern. The structure of goatskins
allow its use in the more durable type applications in the
manufacture of gloves and shoes. The goatskins are
imported from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, East and West
Africa, South Europe, South America.
 Bangladeshi goat skin are very famous, and these areas
goat skins are comparatively small in size yielding about 42
square feet of leather per dozens skins. They posses very
fine grain and prized all over the world as the finest raw
materials for superior glazed kid leather, called Black
Bengal Goat Skins.
18
Types and origin of hides and
skins
3. Goat Skins:
 The goatskins, called Madras, are imported from
India in vegetable-tanned conditions, whilst
from Nigeria, Ethiopia, India, Pakistan can be
imported in wet blue conditions.
 The skins coming from East Africa, frequently,
present grain damage. For this reason they are
suitable for the production of suede; especially,
the skins coming from Ethiopia are indicated for
this article.
19
4. Sheep Skins:
 The sheepskins show different characteristics depending on the
breed. Generally, the square feet of the skins employed in
tannery, can go from 5,5 to 8,5. Australian Merino is known for
the quality of wool. Unlike his wool, the quality of skin is very
bad because it contains a large grease amount and the fiber
structure is weak. Merino’ skins present ripeness on the grain.
The skins are exported in Europe for fellmongering.
 The English sheepskins, called Domestic, have a fine grain. The
fiber structure is compact. These skins, suitable for garment
leather, are exported in pickled state.
 New Zealand sheepskins do not present the typical defects of
Merino breed. They are suitable for garment leather. These skins
are exported in the pickled state.
20
4. Sheep Skins:
 The sheepskins from Middle East (Syria, Lebanon, Iran, Saudi Arabia,
etc.) are suitable for garment and glove leathers. In fact, these skins
have a strong structure, fine grain and contain less fat. They are
exported in the pickled conditions.
 The sheepskins from South-Africa, known as glovers, are exported in
pickled conditions. They are suitable for high quality garment leather.
The grain pattern is fine and the structure is compact and strong.
 In Nigeria there are especially cross-bred skins. The skin structure is
suitable for shoe leather, being strong. The grain structure is fine and
the fat content is much low. These skins are exported in wet blue state.
 Dressing sheepskins are those destined to be tanned with wool on. In
this case, the wool fineness and density play a role were important.
 Bengal ship skin are medium and small sizes, good substance and grain.
21
5. Horse Hides:
 Horse hide may be divided in two parts that differ each other for
the fiber structure. The forward part of the hide is relatively light
skin and the texture of this area is not much different from some
types of goatskin. The fore-part of the hide is used for gloving
and shoe upper leather.
 The back portion of the hide, from the rump, contains a much
thicker, less porous area, known as the crup, that is usually cut
out. It is the source of Cordovan leather. Substantially, horse
hides comes from Holland, France, Belgium, UK and Scandinavia.
22
6. Pig Skins:
 Pigskins show an unmistakable grain pattern. The hair
penetrates deeply through the grain layer and leaves holes in it.
Peccary skin is a particular type of smaller pigskin, that gives a
grained soft leather for gloves. The English and U.S.A. pigs give
larger and much fatter skins. The most consistent quantity of
pigskins comes from China, the former U.S.S.R, U.S.A, Middle
Europe, Japan. Pigskins are destinated, usually for suede
garment, lining and bags.
23
7. Reptile Skins:
 Reptiles skins do not have the hair and epidermis but a
keratinous layer of scales, that is eliminated by unhairing
operation. Many types of lizards come from India and Indonesia.
Other types originate from Africa and South America. Generally,
these skins are dried. The dried raw material is not easy to soak.
 The crocodile skins come principally from Africa and Far East.
There are two types of crocodile: large and small scale. The small
scale are more valuable.
24
Grading Standard
skins are:
•Size
cooling)
grade)
• Weight
25
Commercial size gradings
A. Cow hides:
Extra Heavies-32 sq.ft. and above
Heavies-28 sq.ft to 32 sq.ft.
Uses: The heaviest types are used for Harness and Saddlery leather.
The hides next to them are for football and volley ball covers,
orthopedic appliances, wrist belts, automobile upholstery, luggage,
washers, military accoutrements, suitcase, travel bag, peon’s bag ,
conductor`s cash bag, heavy straps for sandal & lace, soles for light
footwear, and heavy zug grain and other designed leather.
Mediums-24 sq. ft. to 28 sq.ft. Uses: They are used
Backkans-21 sq.ft. to 24 sq.ft. principally as leathers for all
Big Light- 17 sq.ft. to 21 sq. ft. types of footwear, suedes and
Small Light- 13 sq. ft. to 17 sq. ft. graments, hand gloves, light
type of leather goods
industries. 26
B. Calf skins:
Calf lights- 9 sq.ft. To 13 sq.ft.
Calf skins- 5 sq.ft to 9 sq.ft.
Baby calf skins – 3 sq.ft. to 5 sq. ft.
Uses: These are used principally as leathers for civilian footwear, hand
gloves, and light types of leather good industries.
C. Buffalo hides:
XXL – 50+ sq.ft.
Extra large- 40 sq.ft to 50 sq.ft.
Large – 40 sq.ft. to 45 sq. ft.
Medium – 30 sq ft to 39 sq ft
Uses: Their indispensable uses as leathers are for-Component parts of
footwear for civil, Army, and Police Dept. harness and saddlery, and
industrial leather articles of different types.
27
D. Goat skins:
Extra Heavies- 40" above.
Heavies – 36“ to 40"
Mediums – 33“ to 36“
Lights - 28“ to 33“
Kids or small – below 28“
Uses: The skins are principally used as leathers Civilian footwear as
glazed kid, suedes & garments, hand gloves, musical instruments,
book binding, leather goods industries and chamois leathers.
28
D. Sheep skins:
Extra Heavies- 40" above.
Heavies – 36“ to 40"
Mediums – 33“ to 36“
Lights – below 33“
Uses: Their indispensable uses as leathers are for- Leather goods
industries, Lining and socks of footwear, suedes and garments,
and book binding leathers.
29
Grading Standard
skins are:
•Size
cooling)
grade)
• Weight
30
Grading by Preservation method
 Green hides and skins do not usually come into the market for
sale. Wet-salted, dry-salted and dry stocks are the usual market
commodities. Wet-salted hides and skins are graded roughly into
good and rejections.
 Presently, due to demands by the Bangladeshi tanners raw cattle
hides and skins are not exported from Bangladesh.
31
Grading Standard
skins are:
•Size
cooling)
grade)
• Weight
32
Grading by Quality (Natural defects and Manmade
defects)
Natural defects:
• Natural defects is anything that is not caused by men. It can be
monsoon damage manifesting itself in putrefaction holes on the
bellies of small animals in Asia, or scars made by horns, barbed
wire, thorns, insect bites, parasites, illnesses, manure, etc. Some
natural defects can be avoid. Substituting barbed wire with
electrical fences, vaccinating animals against parasites are
remedies which give positive results. Keeping cattle clean from
manure improves the hide quality.
33
Grading by Quality (Natural defects and Manmade
defects)
Manmade defects:
• Man-made defects are totally unnecessary and with good
organisation can be avoided and eliminated. Branding cattle,
maltreatment damage the animal’s hide (hematomas and worse)
can be avoided when it is still alive, butcher cuts and holes, bad
shaping can all be avoided at the abattoir level. Putrefaction
defects can be avoided at the conservation and transportation
level. All these defects if present singularly or accumulatively
downgrade a hide or skin and thus its commercial value. Proper
preparation of hides for shipment is in the eye of the buyer part of
the manmade defects. If a lot presents itself well and
professionally prepared automatically it influences the state of
mind of the buyer upon arrival of a certain lot.
34
Grading of Goat skins by quality
 Goat skins of each region and size are classified into quality,
grades in shippers godowns before export of the skins.
 There are four grades viz, Primes, Seconds, Rejections and Double
Rejections equivalent to 1st , 2nd , and 3rd qualities and double
rejections.
 The gradings is done by selectors or Jachanders who examine
each skin.
 The factors of gradings are hair, substance and such defects as
warbles (pokas) Danas, Borsatis, Sores, Ulcers, Scabs (Kharisthas),
hairslip etc.
 There are well recognised specifications for different grades which
the exporters follow.
 Standard of gradings, however, slightly differ with different
exporters.
35
Grading of Goat skins by quality
 Skins free from all defects and blemishes are classed as primes or
1st quality, those having one or two minor defects are classed as
2nd and rest as rejections and double rejections.
36
Grading Standard
skins are:
•Size
cooling)
grade)
• Weight
37
Grading and Sorting by weight
 The grading of hides and skins is not limited only to defects, but it
is extended also to the separation of weights.
 The tannage of small skins is different from that of large skins. The
treatment is different, the chemical processing is different and the
value of the hide or skin itself is different. For that reason there is
an unwritten global standard that specifies a weight separation.
 The ranges for cattle hides are more or less -/2.5 kgs, 2.5/5 kgs,
5/8 kgs, 8/12 kgs, 12/16 kgs, 16/22 kgs, 22/28 kgs, 28/35 kgs, 35/+
give or take a kilo here and there.
 Goat and sheepskins are less defined and are usually separated in
small, medium and large where the range is wide like in the USA,
northern Africa or Pakistan, whereas in Sub Saharan Africa the
width of the range is small and skins are sold as they come. Dry
skins are separated by weight.
38
Grading and Sorting by weight (India, Bangladesh)
Green Trimmed Wet-salted Dry-salted Dry- Sutkies
(Kgs.) (Kgs) (Kgs) framed (Kgs)
(Kgs)
Cow Hides:
Light 4-8 (10-18 lbs) 3.5 (7.5 lbs) 2-4 (5-9 lbs) 1.5-3 1.5-3
Medium 8-13 (18-28 lbs) 6-10 (13.5-21 lbs) 4-6 (9-14 lbs) 3-4.5 3-5
Heavy 13/plus(28 lbs) 10/plus (21 lbs) 6/plus (14 lbs) 4.5/plus 5/plus
Buffalo Hides:
Light 11-18 (25-40 lbs) 7-13 (15-29 lbs) 5-9 (10-20 lbs) 3-7 3.5-7
Medium 18-27(40-60 lbs) 13-21 (29-45 lbs) 9-14 (20-30 lbs) 7-10 7-11
Heavy 27/plus(60 lbs) 21/plus (45 lbs) 14/plus (30 lbs) 10/plus 11/plus
Cow Calf 2-5 (4-10 lbs) 1-3.5 (3-7.5 lbs) 0.9-2.26 (2-5 0.68- 0.68-
lbs) 1.58 1.7
(1.5-3.5 (1.5-
lbs) 3.75
lbs)
Bulf Calf 4.5-11.33(10-25 3.40-6.57 (7.5- 2.26-4.53 (5-10 1.58- 1.81-
lbs) 14.5 lbs) lbs) 3.17(3.5- 3.50(4-
7 lbs) 7.75
lbs)39
Grading and Sorting by weight (India, Bangladesh)
Goat Skin (dried per 500 skins):
350-375 lbs, 400-450 lbs
Dry salted (per 100 skins)
140-200 lbs, 200-240 lbs
Goat skins (vegetable tanned)
Weight classes (lbs per dozen)
5.5-6 lbs, 8-9 lbs, 11-12 lbs, 15-16 lbs, 22-24 lbs
Sheep skins:
Dried rawstock : 160-200 lbs per 100 skins
Pelts: 130-160 lbs per 100 skins
Hair sheep: 200-210 per 100 skins
Sheep skins (vegetable tanned)
Weight classes (lbs per dozen)
5.5-6 lbs, 6-7 lbs, 7-8 lbs, 8-10 lbs, 11-12 lbs
40

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