DYEING: DEFINITIONS

DYEING
• UNIFORM COLOURATION OF TEXTILE MATERIAL IN
FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC FORM.
• THE COLOUR PRODUCED SHOULD WITHSTAND
EXTERNAL AGENCIES SUCH AS WASHING, LIGHT,
RUBBING etc TO WHICH TEXTILE MATERIAL IS
SUBJECTED DURING USE.
• THE COLOURATION SHOULD NOT RESTRICT ONLY
TO THE FIBRE SURFACE BUT SHOULD PENETRATE
THE FIBRE CROSS SECTION.
• THE SURFACE COLOURATION IS KNOWN AS RING
DYEING.
 DYEING: DEFINITIONS
PAINTING
• APPLICATION OF COLOUR TO ANY SURFACE WITH
THE HELP OF SUITABLE ADHESIVE. IT IS
BASICALLY SURFACE COLOURATION. HAS
FASTNESS PROPERTY TO SOME EXTERNAL
AGENCIES DEPENDING ADHESIVE FORCES
BETWEEN (FIBRE) SURFACE AND COLOURING
COMPOUND.
TINTING
• SURFACE COLURATION. NO FASTNESS PROPERTY
TO EXTERNAL AGENCIES. THE PROCESS IS USED
FOR FIBRE IDENTIFICATION OF DIFFERENT
VARIETIES DURING SPINNING
PRINTING
• LOCALIZED COLOURATION IN THE FORM OF
DESIGN. DYE PENETRATION IN THE FIBRE CROSS
SECTION
 DYES AND PIGMENTS

DYES
• COLOUR COMPOUND
• SOLUBLE IN WATER OR CAN BE MADE SOLUBLE IN
WATER
• POSSESSES AFFINITY TO FIBRE TO BE DYED
• PENETRATION OF DYE IN FIBRE CROSS-SECTION
UNDER DYEING CONDITIONS
• INTERACT WITH FIBRE WITH SUITBLE DYE-FIBRE
INTERACTIVE FORCES DEPENDING ON THE NATURE
OF FIBRE AND NATURE OF DYE
• NATURE OF DYE-FIBRE INTERACTION DETERMINES
THE FASTNESS PROPERTY OF DYE TO EXTERNAL
AGENCIES. THERE SOME EXCEPTIONS TO THIS
RULE.
 DYES AND PIGMENTS

TINTING COLOURS
• DYES HAVING NO AFFINITY TO FIBRE.
• EASILY REMOVED DURING WASHING

PIGMENTS
• COLOURING COMPOUND
• INSOLUBLE IN WATER
• NO AFFINITY TO FIBRE
• NO INTERACTION WITH FIBRE
 AFFINITY OR SUBSTANTIVITY

• ATTRACTION BETWEEN DYE AND FIBRE UNDER

GIVEN DYEING CONDITIONS.
• ABILITY OF DYE TO MOVE FROM SOLUTION PHASE
TO FIBRE PHASE DURING THE DYEING OPERATION
• THIS MEANS REDUCTION IN DYE CONCENTRATION
IN SOLUTION PHASE AND CORRESPONDING
INCREASE OF DYE CONCENTRATION IN FIBRE
PHASE WITH DYEING TIME.

• DYES HAVE AFFINITY TO FIBRE

• PIGMENT AND TINTING COLOURS HAVE NO AFFINITY
TOWARDS FIBRE.
 CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES

NATURAL REGENERA SYNTHETIC

TED
Vegetable Animal
Cotton Wool Viscose Polyamide-
Nylon
Jute Silk Polynosic PET –
Terylene
Ramie Cellulose Acrylic –
Acetate Orlon
Linen Cashmelon
& PP
 CLASSIFICATION OF DYES

Readymade dyes Ingrain dyes Pigment

colours
APPLICATION OF
Water Water COLORLESS
soluble dyes insoluble COMPONENTS IN
SOLUBLE FORM AND
dyes CONVERTING INTO
INSOLUBLE
COLOURING
COMPONENT IN THE
FIBRE

Direct Vat Azoic colours Vat

Acid Sulphur Oxidation Azoic
colours
Basic Disperse Mineral Phthalocyanine
colours
Reactive Mineral
Optical
whitening
agents
 MAIN DYE CLASSES AND THEIR
SUITABILITY FOR DIFFERENT FIBRES

Dye (Solubility/ Fibre Dyebath Fastnes End- Comments

type Ionic affinity auxiliaris properties uses
character)

Direct Water Cellulosic Light Low After

Soluble s Dye bath poor/good Quality Treatment
(anionic) (cotton, + salt Washing- Apparel Can
viscose)   poor Fabrics/ Improve
Matress fastness
covers
Acid Water Protein Acid + Light- Carpet The
levelling soluble fibres glaubers good/mo yarns, difference
(anionic) (wool, salt derate dress between
silk) Washing- goods, the two
moderate Suitings, types of
Acid Water Polyamid Neutral/w Light- overcoats acid are
milling soluble e fibres eakly good , knitting less
(anionic) (nylon), acidic Washing- yarns evident
Wool dyebath + good Carpet on nylon
levelling yarns, compared
agent dress to wool,
goods, Acid dyes
Suitings, have a
overcoats higher
, knitting affinity
yarns for nylon
and
better
fastness
Vat Insoluble Cellulosic Alkali + Light- High Expensive
in water (cotton, reducing excellent quality .
(nonionic) viscose) agent - to curtains, Bright
produce Washing- furnishin colours
the excellent g, shirts, often
anionic towels, difficult to
LEUCO sewing achieve
solubilise threads
d form
Reactive Water Cellulosic Applied Light- Curtains, Excellent
soluble s (also to good/exc furnishin shade
(anionic) protein cellulosic ellent gs, range.
and s from a apparel High
polyamid dyebath Washing- fabrics, fastness
e fibres) subseque excellent towelling, due to
ntly made sewing covalent
alkaline threads dye/fibre
bond
Basic Water Acrylics Weakly Light- Furnishin Bright
soluble (also acidic good/mo gs, shades,
(anionic) occasion dyebath derate apparel excellent
ally Washing- fabrics tinctorial
protein good strength
fibres)
Disperse Insoluble All     Apparel Best
in water synthetic fabrics, fastness
(nonionic s bed on
) sheets, polyester,
carpets through
this
substrate
is also
the most
difficult
to dye.
Good
levelling
propertie
s
DYEING FORMS

FIBRE
YARN
FABRIC
GARMENTS
 FIBRE TO FABRIC STEPS

FIBRE YARN GREY FABRIC

FINISHED FABRIC

PRE-SPINNING SPINNING WEAVING

CHEMICAL PROCESSING

PRE-SPINNING ROVING
SPINNING YARN
WEAVING GREY FABRIC
CHEMICAL
PROCESSING FINISHED FABRIC
 DYEING METHODS

1. BATCH WISE DYEING.

2. SEMI-CONTINUOUS DYEING.

3. CONTINUOUS DYEING.
In this method the dyeing is carried out in small batches.
About 500 – 2500 mts. of fabric can be at a time depending on
the type of equipment used.
The equipments avaliable are designed on three principles:

IN THIS METHOD THE DYEING IS CARRIED OUT IN

SMALL BATCHES.
ABOUT 500 – 2500 MTS. OF FABRIC CAN BE AT A TIME
DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF EQUIPMENT USED.
THE EQUIPMENTS AVALIABLE ARE DESIGNED ON
THREE PRINCIPLES:
 FABRIC STATIONARY, DYE LIQUOR MOVING: -
BEAM DYEING M/C. FOR THE DYEING OF PET
OR PET/COTTON BLENDS.

BOTH FABRIC AND DYE LIQUOR MOVING: -

JET DYEING M/C.

IN WINCH AND JET DYEING M/C. THE FABRIC IS DYED

IN THE ROPE FORM,

WHEREAS, IN CASE OF ALL OTHER M/CS. THE DYEING

OF FABRIC IS CARRIED OUT IN THE OPEN WIDTH
FORM.
 SEMI – CONTINUOUS DYEING

IN THIS METHOD THE FABRIC IS IMPREGNATED (ABOUT 500-1000 MTS.)

WITH THE DYE LIQUOR BY PADDING AND IT IS WOUND ON A ROLLER
KNOWN AS BATCH ROLLER,

AFTER WINDING CERTAIN LENGTH OF CLOTH ON THE ROLLER THE

PROCESS IS DISCONTINUED AND THE SUBSEQUENT LENGTH OF CLOTH
ARE IMPREGNATED WITH THE SAME DYE LIQUOR OR OTHER DEPENDING
ON THE SHADES REQUIRED.

THUS SEVERAL BATCHES OF CLOTH ARE MADE IN THIS WAY,

EACH BATCH IS THEN WRAPPED UP WITH POLYETHYLENE SHEET AND

STORED FOR 2- 24 HRS., DEPENDING ON THE DYEING CONDITIONS.

DURING THIS PERIOD THE FIXATION OF DYE WOULD TAKE PLACE.

ALL THE BATCHES ARE THEN SUBJECTED TO WASHING.

THIS PARTICULAR METHOD IS MOST SUITABLE FOR DYEING OF COTTON

WITH REACTIVE DYE AND IS KNOW AS PAD – BATCH METHOD.
 CONTINUOUS METHOD
IN THIS METHOD OF DYEING, THE FIXATION OR DEVELOPMENT AND THE
WASHING OF THE UNFIXED DYE IS CARRIED OUT IN A CONTINUOUS MANNER.

THE UNDYED CLOTH FED AT ONE END OF THE M/C. COMES OUT FROM OTHER
END IN COMPLETELY DYED AND DRY CONDITION.

THE EQUIPMENT AVAILABLE IS KNOWN AS CONTINUOUS DYEING RANGE AND

CONSISTS OF

PADDING MANGLE FOR THE IMPREGANATION OF CLOTH WITH DYE LIQUOR,

HOT FLUE OR FLOAT DRYER FOR THE DRYING OF CLOTH,

DYE FIXATION UNIT, OPEN SOAPER FOR THE REMOVAL OF UNFIXED DYE

AND DRYING CYLINDER FOR THE FINAL DRYING OF THE DYED CLOTH.

ALL THESE EQUIPMENT RUN IN TANDEM AND THEIR SPEEDS ARE SYNCHRINISED.

THE CONTINUOUS DYEING RANGE IS MOST ECONOIMICAL WHEN LARGE

YARDAGES OF CLOTH ARE TO BE DYED IN A SINGLE SHADE.
 DYEING OF COTTON AND VISCOSE

DIRECT, VAT, SOLUBILISED VAT, SULPHUR, AZOIC,

REACTIVE,

DIRECT DYES
THESE DYESTUFFS ARE WATER SOLUBLE AND A COMPLETE RANGE OF
SHADES CAN BE OBTAINED AT A LOW COST OF DYEING.

DIRECT DYES HAVE POOR FASTNESS TO WASHING;

THEREFORE, THEIR USE IS RESTRICTED TO THE DYEING OF CHEAPER

QUALITIES OF FABRICS OR THOSE FABRICS, WHICH ARE RARELY
SUBJECTED TO WASHING DURING THEIR USE.

THE FASTNESS PROPERTIES COULD BE IMPROVED TO SOME EXTENT

BY CHEMICAL AFTER TREATMENTS OF THE DYED FABRIC WITH
POTASSIUM DICHROMATE, COPPER SULPHUTE, HCHO, ETC.
VAT DYES:

AMONG ALL THE CLASSES OF DYESTUFFS, VAT DYES POSSESS

EXCELLENT FASTNESS PROPERTIES TO ALL THE AGENCIES.

THEREFORE, THE INITIAL BRIGHTNESS I.E. FRESH LOOK AND THE

DEPTH OF SHADE IS MAINTAINED THROUGH THE LIFE OF THE
GARMENT OR THE FABRIC.

VAT DYES ARE WATER INSOLUBLE HOWEVER, CAN BE CONVERTED

TO WATER-SOLUBLE FORM BY REDUCTION TREATMENT WITH
CAUSTIC SODA AND SODIUM HYDROSULPHITE.

THE PROCESS KNOWN AS VATTING AND THE WATER-SOLUBLE FORM

OF THE DYE IS KNOWN AS LEUCO COMPOUND.

SO DURING THE PROCESS OF DYEING THE DYESTUFFS MUST BE

CONVERTED INTO LEUCO FORM, FROM WHICH THE DYEING TAKES
PLACES.
AFTER THE DYEING OPERATION, THE WATER SOLUBLE LEUCO
COMPOUND ON THE FABRIC IS CONVERTED TO PARENT WATER
INSOLUBLE DYE BY OXIDATION TREATMENT OF THE FABRIC

FOLLOWED BY WASHING AND SOAPING DURING WHICH TRUE

SHADE OF THE DYE IS DEVELOPED.

AT ONE TIME THE VAT DYES WERE VERY WIDELY USED.

BUT AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF REACTIVE DYES, THEIR USE IS

RESTRICTED TO THE DYEING OF SPECIAL
TYPES OF FABRICS LIKE SUITINGS AND DYEING OF YARN TO GET
COLOURED THREAD EFFECTS DURING WEAVING.

THESE RESTRICTIONS ARE BECAUSE OF HIGH COST OF DYEING

AND ALSO PARTLY DUE TO LACK OF AVAILABILITY OF
COMPLETELY RANGE OF SHADES AND BRIGHTNESS AS
COMPARED TO REACTIVE DYES.
 SOLUBILISED VAT DYES

THESE ARE WATER-SOLUBLE VAT DYES SO THAT THE PROCESS

OF VATTING IS ELIMINATED FOR DUE SOLUBILISATION.
AFTER THE DISSOLUTION OF THE DYE IN WATER AND
APPLICATION OF THE FABRIC; THE ORIGINAL WATER INSOLUBLE
FORM HAS TO BE PRODUCED BY THE OXIDATION TREATMENT OF
THE FABRIC WITH SULPHURIC ACID AND SOD. NITRITE OR
POTASSIUM DICHROMATE.
THE PROPERTIES OF THIS CLASS OF DYES ARE SAME AS THOSE
OF VAT DYES.
 SULPHUR DYES

THESE ARE ALSO WATER INSOLUBLE;

HENCE DURING DYEING THEY ARE FIRST CONVERTED TO
SOLUBLE FORM BY REDUCTION WITH SOD. CARBONATE AND
SOD. SULPHIDE
FOLLOWED BY SUBSEQUENT OXIDATION TREATMENT TO
PRODUCE ORIGINAL WATER INSOLUBLE FORM OF THE FABRIC.
ALTHOUGH THE DYES OF THIS CLASS ARE CHEAPER, THEY LACK
IN BRIGHTNESS OF SHADE AND LIMITED FASTNESS TO LIGHT AND
CHLORINE.
ANOTHER DISADVANTAGE IS THAT WHEN THE SULPHUR DYED
FABRIC OR GARMENT IS STORED FOR LONGER TIME THERE IS
THE DANGER OF FABRIC TENDERING DUE TO LIBERATION OF
SULPHURIC ACID FROM THE DYE.
 AZOIC COLOURS
AZOIC COLOURS ARE NOT READY MADE DYESTUFFS,

BUT A COLOURED COMPOUND IS PRODUCED ON THE FABRIC ITSELF BY

THE REACTION OF TWO COLOURLESS COMPOUNDS.

ONE OF THE COMPOUNDS IS KNOWN AS NAPHTHOL OR COUPLING

COMPONENT

AND THE SECOND DIAZOTISED AMINE OR DIAZO COMPONENT.

THEY REACT WITH EACH OTHER TO PRODUCE WATER INSOLUBLE DYE.

THUS THE METHOD OF APPLICATION CONSISTS OF TREATMENT OF THE

CLOTH FIRST WITH NAPHTHOL

FOLLOWED BY TREATMENT WITH DIAZOTISED AMINE.

AFTER THE DEVELOPMENT OF SHADE THE FABRIC MUST BE

THOROUGHLY SOAPED TO REMOVE THE LOOSELY HELD PIGMENT.
THE AZOIC DYES PRODUCE VERY BRIGHT SHADES. SOME OF
THE BRIGHT RED, ORANGE, YELLOW, NAVY BLUE AND BLACK
SHADES COULD BE OBTAINED AT REASONABLE COST. THE
LIMITATION OF THESE CLASSES OF DYES IS UNSATISFACTORY
RUBBING FASTNESS PARTICULARLY WHEN THE SOAPING OF
THE FABRIC AFTER DYEING IS NOT THOROUGH. SECONDLY,
THESE DYES ARE SUITABLE FOR DYEING ONLY DEEP SHADES
AS IN LIGHTER SHADES THE LIGHT FASTNESS IS FATHER POOR.
 REACTIVE DYES

THIS IS THE LATEST CLASS OF DYES INVENTED IN 1956 BY ICI AND

SINCE THEN CONSIDERABLE DEVELOPMENT TOOK PLACE AND

NOW A DAYS MOST OF THE DYE MANUFACTURERS ARE

MANUFACTURIG THESE DYES BASED ON ONE REACTIVE SYSTEM OR
THE OTHER.

THESE DYES ARE CHARACTERIZED BY THE FORMATION OF CHEMICAL

LINKAGE BETWEEN DYE AND FIBRE AND HENCE THESE KNOW AS
REACTIVE DYES.

BECAUSE OF THIS LINKAGE THIS DYES PRODUCE DYEING OF

EXCELLENT WASHING FASTNESS.

IN ADDITION A COMPLETE RANGE OF SHADES WITH EXCELLENT

BRIGHTNESS COULD BE OBTAINED AT REASONABLE COST AND

THEREFORE, THIS CLASS OF DYES HAS BECOME VERY POPULAR.

THE DYEING PROCESS IS NORMALLY CARRIED OUT IN THREE
STAGE:

APPLICATION OF THE DYE ON FABRIC,

CHEMICAL REACTION OF DYES AND FIBRE UNDER ALKALINE

CONDITIONS AND

THE SOAPING TO REMOVE UNREACTED DYE FROM THE FABRIC.

THE DRAW BACK OF THIS CLASS OF DYES IS POOR FASTNESS

TO CHLORINE AND

THEREFORE, GARMENT DYED WITH REACTIVE DYES SHOULD

NOT BE SUBJECTED TO LAUNDRY WASH WHERE CHLORINE IS
USED BLEACHING.
 DYEING OF WOOL AND SILK
DIRECT, ACID, BASIC, METAL COMPLEX AND
REACTIVE DYES.

WOOL AND SILK CONTAIN BOTH ACID (COOH) AND BASIC (NH2 AND
CONH) GROUPS AND

THEY RETAIN THE DYE MOLECULES BY MEANS OF ELECTROSTATIC

ATTRACTION.

THE FASTNESS PROPERTIES PARTICULARLY THE WASHING FASTNESS

DEPEND ON THE STRENGTH OF THE ATTRACTIVE FORCES BETWEEN THE
DYES AND THE FIBRE.

THE REACTIVE DYES FORM CHEMICAL LINKAGE WITH THE FIBRE IN

ADDITION TO THE ELECTROSTATIC ATTRACTION.

EXCEPT BASIC DYES, ALL CLASSES OF DYESTUFFS SHOW GOOD

WASHING FASTNESS.
THE FASTNESS TO OTHER AGENCIES WOULD VARY WITH
THE INDIVIDUAL MEMBER OF EACH CLASS.

BASIC DYES THOUGH PRODUCE VERY BRIGHT SHADES

LACK IN WASHING AND LIGHT FASTNESS PROPERTIES.

THE GENERAL METHOD OF APPLICATION OF THESE

CLASSES OF DYES CONSIST OF EXHAUSTION OF THE DYE
FROM THE ACIDIC SOLUTION IN PRESENCE OF AN
ELECTROLYTE LIKE COMMON SALT.

THE DYEING IS NORMALLY CARRIED OUT AT BOIL

FOLLOWED BY WASHING.
 DYEING OF SYNTHETIC FIBRES

DYEING OF NYLON

DIRECT , ACID, METAL COMPLEX, DISPERSE AND REACTIVE

THE DYEING IN GENERAL IS CARRIED OUT AT 85 - 900 C

UNDER
ACIDIC CONDITIONS, WHICH MAY BE ADJUSTED
WITH THE ADDITION OF ACETIC ACID OR FORMIC ACID OR
ACID LIBERATING SALT LIKE AMMONIUM SULPHATE.
 DYEING OF POLYESTER

PET IS HIGHLY HYDROPHOBIC AND

THERE ARE NO REACTIVE SITES IN THE FIBRE.
ALONG WITH THESE FACTORS, ITS HIGHLY CRYSTALLINE
COMPACT STRUCTURE MAKES
THE DYEING OPERATION VERY DIFFICULT.
THE ONLY CLASSES OF DYE SUITABLE FOR THE DYEING OF
POLYESTER IS DISPERSE DYES.
THERE ARE THREE METHODS AVAILABLE FOR THE DYEING
OF POLYESTER WITH DISPERSES DYES.
BEFORE DYEING HEAT SETTING SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT TO
PREVENT FABRIC SHRINKAGE.
1. CARRIER DYEING

IN THIS METHOD SUITABLE CARRIERS, WHICH ACT AS

FIBRE-SWELLING AGENTS ARE USED.

THE DYEING IS CARRIED OUT AT BOIL IN CLOSED JIGGERS

OR WINCHES.

2. HIGH TEMPERATURE HIGH PRESSURE DYEING WITHOUT

CARRIER

IN THIS METHOD THE DYEING IS CARRIED OUT WITHOUT

CARRIER AT

125 – 130 0 C UNDER 25 – 30 LBS/SQ. IN PRESSURE FOR 3-4

HRS.

FOLLOWED BY WASHING.
3. THEMOSOL DYEING
THIS IS A CONTINUOUS METHOD OF DYEING AND IS BASED ON
THE PRINCIPAL THE DISPERSE DYES WHEN SUBJECTED TO
HIGH TEMPERATURE
SUBLIME OR VAPOURISE AND
THESE DYE VAPOURS HAVE HIGH AFFINITY FOR POLYESTER.
THUS WHEN
THE POLYESTER FABRIC CONTAINING DISPERSE DYE IS
SUBJECTED TO HIGH TEMPERATURE (180 –210 0C);
THE DYE
VAPOURS ARE TAKEN UP BY THE FIBRE IT GETS DYED.
THUS
THE SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS IN THIS METHOD CONSIST OF

PADDING THE FABRIC WITH DISPERSE DYE DISPERSION

CONTAINING SUITABLE THICKENER OR A MIGRATION
INHIBITOR,

DRYING AT 90-1000C AND

CURING AT 180-2100C FOR 45-60 SECONDS

FOLLOWED BY WASHING.

ALL THESE

OPERATIONS CAN BE CARRIED OUT CONTINUOUSLY AND

THUS

THE METHOD IS ECONOMICAL WHEN LARGE YARDAGES ARE

TO BE DYED IN A SINGE SHADE.
 DYEING OF ACRYLICS

THE MOST COMMONLY USED DYE CLASS FOR THE DYEING OF

ACRYLICS IS BASIC DYES.

THESE DYES GIVE BRIGHT SHADES ALONG WITH GOOD FASTNESS

PROPERTIES.

THE DYEING IS CARRIED OUT UNDER ACIDIC CONDITIONS AT BOIL

FOR 1-2 HRS.

HOWEVER ABOVE 85-900 C THE TEMPERATURE MUST BE RAISED

VERY SLOWLY TO BOIL,

BECAUSE ABOVE 900 C THE DYE UPTAKE IS VERY RAPID AND

THERE ARE LESS CHANCES OF DYE MIGRATION WITH THE DANGER

OF UNEVEN DYEING.
MANY TIMES TO CONTROL THE SLOW DYE UPTAKE DYEING
RETARDERS ARE USED

SO THAT UNIFORM DYE UPTAKE AND SHADES ARE OBTAINED.

IN ADDITION TO BASIC DYES DISPERSE DYES, VAT,

SOLUBILISED VAT AND ACID DYES MAY ALSO BE USED.

HOWEVER, THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTIES ARE INFERIOR AS

COMPARED TO BASIC DYES.
 ASSESSMENT OF FASTNESS PROPERTIES

DURING THE USE OF FABRICS/GARMENTS THEY ARE LIKELY TO BE

SUBJECTED TO VARIOUS AGENCIES SUCH AS

WASHING, RUBBING, LIGHT, PERSPIRATION, IRONING, CHLORINE, DRY-

CLEANING ETC.

THEREFORE, THE RESISTANCE OF DYED OR PRINTED MATERIAL MUST

BE TESTED BEFOREHAND TO ASCERTAIN THE QUALITY OF DYEING.

STANDARD TEST SPECIFICATIONS ARE READILY AVAILABLE TO

DETERMINE THE FASTNESS PROPERTIES TO DIFFERENT AGENCIES,

THEREFORE, INSTEAD OF GOING INTO THE DETAILS OF TEST

PROCEDURES,
IT SHOULD BE INTERESTING TO TAKE THE TYPICAL CASE
STUDIES OF THE COMPLAINTS WHICH ONE NORMALLY RECEIVES
FROM THE CONSUMERS.

IT IS NECESSARY TO ANALYZE THESE COMPLAINTS CAREFULLY

ASSUMING THAT THE CLAIMS MADE BY THE CONSUMER ARE
VALID,

BECAUSE IT SPEAKS FOR THE BEHAVIOR OF THE DYED

MATERIAL DURING ACTUAL USE.

SOME OF THE DYED COMPLAINTS ARE:

 LOSS OF DEPTH OF SHADES OR CHANGE
IN TONE AFTER WASHING

LOSS OF DEPTH OF SHADES DURING THE FIRST TWO OR THREE

WASHES IS CERTAINLY DUE TO POOR WASHING FASTNESS OF THE
DYED MATERIAL.

IT MAY BE DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE CHOICE OF THE DYE WAS
NOT CORRECT OR

THE DYEING PROCEDURES WERE NOT FOLLOWED CAREFULLY. IN

SUCH CASES,

THE ATTEMPTS SHOULD BE MADE TO IDENTIFY THE DYE CLASS AND

EVALUATES ITS GENERAL PROPERTIES.
SECONDLY, MANY TIMES IT WOULD BE NOTICED THAT THE DYED
FABRIC LOOSES ITS TONE AFTER WASHING E.G.

THE REDDISH TONE OF THE FABRIC BECOMES DULL BLUE OR

GREENISH BLUE.

THIS IS DUE TO THE MATERIAL IS BASICALLY DYED WITH FAST

BLUE DYES,

BUT IN THE FINAL OPERATION IT IS TINTED WITH A SMALL

QUANTITY OF RED DYE TO GIVE REDDISH TONE.

THE FASTNESS PROPERTY OF THE RED DYE IS OBVIOUSLY POOR

AND THEREFORE, WASHED AWAY IN THE FIRST ONE OR TWO
WASHINGS.
 RUBBING AND PERSPIRATION FASTNESS

THE CHANGE IN SHADES OR THE LOSS OF DEPTH OF

SHADES AT COLLARS OR CUFFS IS THE TYPICAL CASE OF
POOR RUBBING OR PERSPIRATION FASTNESS,
BECAUSE AT THESE AREAS THE GARMENT IS EXCESSIVELY
SUBJECTED TO RUBBING OR THE ACTION OF PERSPIRATION.
THE MATERIAL COULD BE TESTED INDEPENDENTLY FOR
THESE TWO FASTNESS PROPERTIES AND
THE TRUE CAUSE COULD BE ASCERTAINED.
THE IDENTIFICATION OF THE DYE CLASS WOULD ALSO
THROW SOME LIGHT ON THE BEHAVIOR OF THE SHADE.
FABRIC DYED WITH PIGMENT OR AZOIC COLOUS WOULD
GIVE LOW RUBBING FASTNESS.
 LIGHT FASTNESS

DURING THE USE OF GARMENT THEY ARE CONTINUOUSLY

SUBJECTED TO THE ACTION OF LIGHT.
IF THE DYE IS NOT FAST TO LIGHT THEN ONE WOULD OBSERVE
THAT THE PORTIONS OF THE GARMENT WHICH ARE NOT
EXPOSED TO LIGHT RETAIN THEIR ORIGINAL SHADE,
WHEREAS, THE EXPOSED PORTIONS ARE ALTERED
CONSIDERABLY.
THIS CAN BE CONFIRMED BY SUBJECTING THE DYED
MATERIAL UNDER STANDARD CONDITIONS TO THE ACTION OF
SUNLIGHT OR ARTIFICIAL LIGHT IN LABORATORY.