Origins Of The Timeless Chain Stitch

The art of embroidery has a long tradition in India. Each style of this technique has characteristics that describe its origin or journey.  For
Aari embroidery, its origins lead from Barabanki, Uttar Pradesh to Kutch, Gujarat where the cobbler or mochi community gave fame to the
chain stitch by applying the technique to cloth. Delicacy in detail and the aari needle are what aari is known for.

https://strandofsilk.com/journey-map/gujarat/aari-
embroidery/history

There is little information on people who practiced aari embroidery in Barabanki. However, when the embroidery technique travelled to Gujarat, it became very popular
among the royals. As mentioned in the Gazetteer of Bombay Presidency, it was the Mughals who embraced the embroidery style and that made Gujarat part of Central
Asia’s trade route to the Far East.
The ‘aar’ holed needle is a popular tool used for a variety of handicrafts. The mochis initially used the needle to work on leather.   Under the rule of the Mughals, the
mochi trade was suffering. It was at this time the mochis adopted the textile trade. The transition from leather to silk proved to be easy, having used the aari needle
beforehand. Floral motifs and wildlife patterns fascinated Mughal royals. The 16 th century marked the rule of Mughal emperors. Gujarat became, and still is, the richest
area for embroidered textiles.

Aari embroidery was used to form a variety of opulent motifs and patterns, this embroidery style stood the test of time, making it much more
admired today.
Tambour embroidery, the western name for aari, emerged in Europe in the 18 th century.  The exotic stitch swiftly became a common pastime
for ladies. Many of its finest examples were brought to Britain and France from India. The only change that was made in the process of
technique was the introduction of Tambour, a frame. The fabric held taut between two round fitted hoops resembling the face of a drum,
provided support and made it much faster to work the embroidery into the fabric.
mage Sources: Swaen:edited to show location, needlenthread, Two Nerdy
History Girls, The Islamic Monthly, travelsintextiles, istockimg,
Aari work traces out its emergence way back in the 12th century, which marked the rule of the Mughal
emperors. Floral motifs, traditional designs and fascinated the Mughal royals during that period. This
popularized and brought Aari work into the limelight. With time, places like Kutch, Lucknow, Uttar
Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Delhi  started recognizing the specialty of Aari embroidery, which marked the
gradual popularity of Aari embroidery.