Spreading and Marker

Making Modes
Submitted to: Ms. Girija Jha

Submitted by: Charuvi Ranjan

Roll.no.11, BFT-3

SCAP Assignment-1
 Spreading Modes
• There are two ways in which a fabric can be spread depending on its type (symmetry, asymmetry)-
o Nap one way - The nap is in the same direction implying that this spreading mode is for asymmetric
and unidirectional fabrics.
o Nap either way- The nap can be in any direction which means that this spreading mode is ideal for
symmetric fabrics that do not change their appearance despite 180° rotation in the same plane.
• Now, the fabric face (while placing different layers on top of each other) may be positioned in two ways-
o Face one way (F/O/W) - Which means, all plies facing in the same direction (either upward or
downward)
o Face-to-face (F/F) - This means, the face side of one layer is placed against the face side of another
fabric layer.
• Overall, we can now say that for any fabric there are the following possibilities in which they can be spread-

o Nap one way, face one way (NOW, F/O/W)

(for asymmetric and symmetric fabrics)

o Nap either way, face to face (NEW, F/F)

(for asymmetric and symmetric fabrics)

o Nap one way, face to face (NOW, F/F)

(for symmetric fabrics)

o Nap either way, face one way (NEW, F/O/W)

(for symmetric fabrics)

 Marker Making Modes
• Nap One Way (N/O/W) marker – This marker
mode consists of all the pattern pieces facing in one
direction, towards top generally. It’s common with
asymmetric fabrics or directional prints, where
direction of the nap or the print is an important
feature in the garment. The N/O/W marker uses
F/O/W, N/O/W spreading mode for highest quality.
However, the speed of this spreading mode is slower
and the marker layout is less economical.
• Nap Either Way (N/E/W) marker – Here, the term
nap is to indicate the fabric is directional - it is
different end-to-end. With symmetric, no directional
fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed with only
consideration for grain line. The pattern pieces are
placed in either direction without compromising on
the grain line marked on the pattern, i.e. the straight
grain pattern piece could either face the top direction
or the bottom direction even within the same size.
This type of marker is possible with symmetrical
fabrics only, which can be spread fast in F/O/W,
N/E/W mode. However, the quality and the efficiency
of the marker are medium.
• Nap Up & Down (N/U/D) – On some directional
fabrics, it may be possible for all the pattern pieces
of one size to be placed in one direction and
another size placed in the opposite direction. This
is called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D). This marker is
used on folded or tubular fabrics spread F/F,
N/O/W. However all the pattern pieces
corresponding to one size will face in one direction
and that for the other size will face in the opposite
direction, without changing the grain-line of the
pattern. This method proves to have medium to low
efficiency and quality, depending on the sizes
combined together.
Fabric Sample 1

Fabric type:
Weft wise asymmetric
Warp wise asymmetric
Spreading modes preferred:
(time required for modes has also been
considered)
Nap one way, face one way
Marker making mode:
Nap one way marker
Fabric Sample 2

Fabric type:
Weft wise symmetric
Warp wise symmetric
Spreading modes preferred:
Nap either way, face to face
Nap either way, face one way
Marker making mode:
Nap either way marker
Fabric Sample 3

Fabric type:
Weft wise asymmetric
Warp wise symmetric
Spreading modes preferred:
Nap one way, face one way
Nap either way, face to face
Marker making mode:
Nap one way marker
Fabric Sample 4

Fabric type:
Weft wise symmetric
Warp wise asymmetric
Spreading modes preferred:
Nap one way, face to face
Nap either way, face to face
Marker making mode:
Nap up-down marker
Fabric Sample 5

Fabric type:
Weft wise symmetric
Warp wise symmetric
Spreading modes preferred:
Nap either way, face to face
Nap either way, face one way
Marker making mode:
Nap either way marker
 References
• https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2020/11/understanding-spreading-modes-for.html

• Textile Insight: Marker Modes

• https://parulkapurbajaj.blogspot.com/2017/03/garment-cutting-part-1-market-making.html

• T-shirt pattern used:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b8/d6/e5/b8d6e502a6e547c817773fd4867ddf6e.jpg

• Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products: Fabric Classification; Spreading and Cutting by
Associate Professor Prabir Jana

• Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture by Blackwell Publishing

Thank You