BASIC KNOWLEDGE OF QUALITY

wW‡d± n‡”Q Ggb GKwU cÖwµqv hv c‡b¨i

¸bMZ gvb ¶wZMÖ¯— K‡i ev ÷¨vÛv‡W©i
wecwiZ Ges hv ‡µZv µq Ki‡Z Awb”Qv cÖKvk
K‡i|
** How many kinds of Defect wW‡d± KZ
cÖKvi I wK wK?
wW‡d± mvavibZ wZb cÖKvi:
•Major Defect
•Minor Defect
•Critical Defect
a) Major Defect (eo ai‡Yi ΓwU ) †h ΓwU mgyn eo I
hvnv
wiwcqvi (ms‡kvab) Kiv hvq Ges hvnv †µZvi Kv‡Q
MÖnb‡hvM¨ bq ZvnvB Major Defect
b) Minor Defect : (‡QvU ai‡Yi ΓwU) †h ai‡Yi
ΓwU †QvU I mn‡R wiwcqvi Kiv hvq A_ev
wiwcqvi bv Kwi‡jI †µZvi c¶¨ †_‡K †Kvb
Awf‡hvM Avm‡e bv ZvnvB Minor Defect

c) Critical Defect : (RwUj ev gvivZ¥K ai‡Yi ΓwU)

†h mKj ΓwU mg~n AZ¨š— RwUj ev gvivZ¥K, hv
mn‡R wi†cqvi Kiv hvq bv Ges wi†cqvi Ki‡jI
cwic~Y© gvb m¤úbœ nq bv ZvnvB Critical
Defect (wµwUKvj wW‡d±) |
 AjUvi: ¯‹xc ÷xR/Skip stitch

†h Kvi‡b nq:-wb‡Wj
mvBR,wbb¥ gv‡bi
myZv,Kvco I †gwk‡bi
GWRv÷‡g›U Ges
†_ªwWs wVK bv _vK‡j
w¯‹c w÷R n‡q _v‡K|
 AjUvi: wiwfU wgwms/Rivit missing

• ‡h Kvi‡b nq:-
wiwfU jvMv‡bvi
mgq Gm I wc
†gBb‡UBb bv Ki‡j
A_©vr cÖ‡m‡mi
avivevwnKZv wVK
bv _vK‡j wiwfU
wgwms n‡q _v‡K|
1. S.P.I = Stitch Per Inch
2. A.Q.L= Acceptable Quality Level.
3. O.Q.L= Observed Quality Level.
4. D.H.U= Defect per Hundred Units.
5. Q.A= Quality Assurance.
6. P.D.M= Product Development Manual.
7. P.P.M= Pre-Production meeting.
8. U.P.C= Universal Prode Code.
9. S.O.P= Standard Operation Procedure.
10. O.P.P= Open Price Point.
11. P.O = Purchase Order.
12. F.C.C.A= Factory Capacity Capability Assessment.
13. I.T.S= Intertek Testing Services
14. R.F.T= Right First Time.
15. Q.I.= Quality Inspector.
16. T.Q.M= Total Quality Management.
17. C.A.D= Computer Added Design.
18. A.P.W= Auto Pocket welt.
19. G.S.D= General Sewing Data.
20. W.I.P= Work In Process.
21. D.S.G= Direct Sourcing Group.
22. M & S= Mark & Spencer.
23. N.D.P= Needle Detection Procedure.
24. Q.M.=Quality Monitor.
25. S.K.U= Store Keeping Unit.
26. T.L.S= Traffic Light System.
MEASUREMENT
 recap of 1st training
 
First training session we known that –
Joshef Juran says “ Quality is fitness for
use”
cÖ_g †Uªwbs G Avgiv ‡R‡bwQ - †hv‡ld
Ryivb e‡j‡Qb t- Ó†KvqvwjwU n‡”Q
e¨venvi Dc‡hvMx Ó
If Quality is fitness for use then
Measurement will come first.
hw` †KvqvwjwU e¨venvi Dc‡hvMx nq,
Zvn‡j †gRv‡g©›U mevi Av‡M Avm‡e|
If you want to measure a Garments you
have to know about measurement tape.
hw` Zzwg GKwU Mv‡g©›Um
†gRv‡g©›U Kwi‡Z PvI †Zvgv‡K Aek¨B
†gRv‡g©›U †Uc m¤ú‡K© Rvb‡Z n‡e|
This is a Measurement Tape:-
Bnv GKwU †gRv‡g©›U †Uc |
 1" AvU myZv
INTRODUCE TO MEASUREMENT

15/16" mv i mvZ myZv

‡

7/8" mvZ myZv

13/16" mv i Qq myZv
‡

3/4" Qq myZv
11/16" mv i cvP myZv
‡

cvP myZv
1" Inch

5/8"
9/16" mv i Pvi myZv
‡
 

1/2" Pvi myZv

7/16" mv i wZb myZv
‡

3/8" wZb myZv

5/16" AvovB myZv
1/4" `yB myZv
TAPE

3/16" " `o myZv

†
1/8= GK myZv
1/16= nvd myZv
There is two scale for

Centimeter (CM) Scale

GLb Avgiv †gRv‡g©›U
Now we learn about
measurement tape.

†Uc m¤ú‡K© wkLe|

measurement.
Inch Scale
 INTRODUCE TO MEASUREMENT
TAPE
Now we learn about
measurement tape.
GLb Avgiv †gRv‡g©›U †Uc 1" Inch
m¤ú‡K© wkLe|
Generally a measurement
tape is 60 Inch or 150 cm.  

11/16"

13/16"

15/16"
1/16= nvd myZv

3/16"

5/16"

7/16"

9/16"
1/8=
mvavibZ GKwU †gRv‡g©›U

1/4"

3/8"

1/2"

5/8"

3/4"

7/8"

1"
†Uc 60 Bw A_ev 150 †mt wgt|
GK myZv
" `o myZv
`yB myZv
AvovB myZv
wZb myZv
mv i wZb myZv
Pvi myZv
mv i Pvi myZv
cvP myZv
mv i cvP myZv
Qq myZv
mv i Qq myZv
mvZ myZv
mv i mvZ myZv
AvU myZv
†
‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡
In Inch’s have some
classification.
BwÂi g‡a¨ wKQy fvM Av‡Q|
 MEN’S PANT
WAIST BAND Waist Band Sketch
1

• There are three type of 2

waist band 3

measurement.

• 1. Waist at Top .
• 2. Waist relaxed.
• 3. Waist at Bottom.
 HIP/SEAT

There are three type
of measurement.
3
5”

1.Three 3” Inch’s 1

up from crotch point. 2


2. Three 3” Inch’s up
from crotch point
straight.

3. Five 5” Below from
waist band.
 THIGH
• There are two type
of measurement.

• 1. Thigh at crotch .
1

2
• 2. Thigh 1” bellow
from crotch point.
 KNEE
There are three type
of measurement.
But location almost
same

1. 14” Inch. Bellow

from crotch point.
2. Thigh from ½ of
inseam.
3. ½ of inseam above
2” inch’s up.
 INSEAM
 Inseam allays
depend on the Label
number.
 Whatever required
mentioned on the
Label.
 Sometimes Label
mentioned 32”but
Buyer required
32 ½”.
 FRONT RISE/BOTTOM OPENING

• There are two type

of measurement.

• 1. Front rise from

Including
Waistband. 2 1
• 2. Front rise from
Excluding
Waistband. 3
• 3. Bottom Opening.
 BACK RISE

• There are two type

of measurement.

• 1. Back rise from

including 1 2

Waistband.
• 2. Back rise from
excluding
Waistband.
 FLY LENGTH/width
There are two type of
measurement.
1. Fly length from Bartack
to blw Waistband.
1 2
2. Fly Width : From fly
edge to J” to fly top st.
3. If “ J” stitch double
needle then fly length
will have first st. or
second st.
 FRONT POCKET
• 1. Front pocket opening
Length, (Bartack to
Bartack) 3
2 1
• 2.Front Pocket Length
along side seam.
• 3. Front Pocket Width
along Waistband.
 BACK POCKET
• 1.Back Pocket opening.
• 2. Back Pocket position 2

from blw Waistband.

• 3. Back Pocket position 1 3
from Bk rise.