Haircolouring

Why People Colour Their Hair

• Cover up gray hair

• Enhance existing hair colour

• Create a fashion statement or statement of

self-expression
• Correct unwanted tones

• Accentuate a particular haircut

 Hair color vs. Haircolour
• Hair colour – Refers to the natural colour of the hair.

• Haircolour – a professional, industry-coined term

referring to products and services for artificially
colouring the hair.
 Review Hair Facts
• The structure of the hair and the
desired results determine which
haircolour to use.
• Cuticle – outermost layer that
contributes
20 percent of overall strength
• Cortex – middle layer that
contributes
80 percent of overall strength
• Medulla – innermost layer
(sometimes absent)
 Texture
• Coarse – large hair-strand
diameter
• Medium – medium hair-strand
diameter
• Fine small hair-strand diameter
 Density
• Number of hairs per square inch

• Refers to hair thickness

 Porosity
• The ability of the hair to absorb moisture

• Porous hair accepts haircolor faster and

permits a darker color than less-porous hair.
 Types of Porosity
• Low porosity – tight cuticle, resistant hair
• Average porosity – cuticle slightly raised; average
processing time
• High porosity – cuticle lifted; quicker processing
time
 Identify Natural Hair Colour and Tone
• Melanin in the cortex
– Eumelanin – gives black and brown color
– Pheomelanin – gives blond and red colors
– Mixed melanin – contains both eumelanin and
pheomelanin
– Contributing pigment – also known as
undertone
 Colour Theory
• Colour is the property of objects that depends
on the light they reflect. It is perceived as red,
green, blue, or other shades.
• Base colour – the predominant tone of a
colour.
 Complementary Colours
• Blue and orange

• Red and green

• Yellow and violet

 Base Colour
• Base color is the predominant tone of a colour.
• Each colour is identified by a number and a
letter.
• The number indicates the level and the letter
indicates the tone. For example: 6G is level
6–Dark Blond with a G-Gold Base.
 Temporary Haircolour
• Does not penetrate cuticle
layer
• Coats hair shaft
• Neutralizes unwanted tones
• Available in variety of colours
and products
 Semipermanent
• Lasts through several shampoos

• Penetrates hair shaft; stains

cuticle layer
• Fades with each shampoo

• Nonoxidation

• Used out of bottle; requires

patch test
 Demipermanent Haircolour
• Deposits colour; does not lift

• Less alkaline than permanent colours

• Ideal for:
– Introducing haircolour services
– Blending or covering gray
– Refresh faded colour
– Colour corrections
 Permanent Haircolour
• Used to match and lighten hair, and to cover gray
hair
• Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
• They require a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to
tints.
• Contains aniline derivatives
• Combine with H2O2 to form larger molecules
• Removes natural pigment while adding artificial
color
• Best to cover gray
Permanent Haircolour Action
 Natural Haircolour
• From leaves or bark of plants

• No lightening

• Limited shade range

• Professional products cannot be applied over

 Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
• Developer – also called oxidizing agents or
catalysts.
• pH between 2.5 and 4.5
• H2O2 most common
• Volume
– Lower volume, less lift
– Higher volume, greater lift
Hydrogen Peroxide Volume and Uses
 Lighteners
• Lighten prior to colour application.

• Lighten to a desired shade.

• Lighten and brighten existing shade.

• Lighten only certain parts of hair.

• Lighten dark natural or colour-treated

levels.
 Toners
• Applied to lightest degree of contributing
pigment
• Never lift past pale yellow
– Hair will become mushy.
– Hair will lose its elasticity.
– Will be harsh and brittle when dry
– Often suffers breakage to pale yellow and
neutralizing the unwanted undertone with a
toner.
 Formulate Haircolour
Five Basic Questions
1. What is the natural level, and does it include gray
hair?
2. What is the level and tone of the previously
colored hair?
3. What is the client’s desired level and tone?
4. Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be
revealed?
5. What colors should be mixed to get the desired
result?
 Mixing Permanent Haircolours
Brush and bowl
– Use nonmetallic bowl.
– Pour developer first, then product.
– blend thoroughly.
 Show How to Use Lighteners
Three Forms of Lighteners
• Oil
– On-the-scalp lightener

• Cream
– On-the-scalp lightener

• Powder
– Off-the-scalp lightener
 Summary and Review
• Haircolouring offers you the opportunity to exercise
your creative talents and bring great pleasure to
your clients.
• Enjoy your work, but most of all, enjoy and
appreciate learning now and in the future.
Haircolour techniques, fashions, and formulations
are constantly changing.
• Professionals who specialize in haircolour must
constantly learn new techniques to keep up with
those changes.
 Chapter Review Questions
1. Why do people colour their hair?
2. How does the hair’s porosity affect haircolour?
3. How many types of melanin are found in hair?
Name each.
4. What are the categories of haircolour? Briefly
describe each one.

(continues)
 Chapter Review Questions (continued)
5. What are types of colours?
6. What are lighteners?
7. What is the purpose of toner?

(continues)