Chapter 8 Hair Analysis

Hair analysis is performed by observation, uses

the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell.
The four most important factors to consider are
texture, porosity, elasticity and density. Other
factors include natural growth pattern and
degree of oiliness or dryness
Hair Texture
Thickness or diameter of the individual
hair strand ( compare a thin rope to a thick rope
or a piece of thread to a piece of yarn )
Coarse – largest diameter; stronger than
fine hair; usually requires more processing
time & may be resistant to processing
Hair Texture
Medium – most common and is considered
normal; does not pose any special
problems. It is thinner than coarse hair and
thicker than fine hair
Fine – smallest diameter & is more fragile;
easier to process; more susceptible to
damage
Hair Density
Measures the number of individual hair
strands on one square inch of the scalp
Low – thin hair
Medium – average or normal
High – dense or thick hair
Average – 2200 hairs/square inch, average
head of hair contains about 100,000
individual hairs strands. Number varies by
hair color
Hair Density
Blonde – 140,000 hairs
Brown – 110,000 hairs
Black – 108,000 hairs
Red – 80,000 hairs
Porosity
Ability of the hair to absorb moisture; directly
related to condition of the cuticle layer
Low porosity – considered resistant; require more
alkalinity in solutions
Average porosity – normal hair; chemical services
will normally process as expected
High porosity – overly porous; often the result of
over-processing; is damaged, dry, fragile, &
brittle. Chemical services require less alkaline
solutions w/a lower pH to prevent additional over
processing
Elasticity
The ability of the hair to stretch & return to
its original length without breaking. It
indicates the strength of the side bonds that
hold the hair’s individual fibers in place
Normal elasticity – will stretch up to 50% of its
original length when wet
Low elasticity – hair is brittle & breaks easily; will
not hold a curl; the result of weak side bonds,
probably as a result of over-procecssing
Growth patterns
Hair stream
Hair flowing in the same direction; result of
follicles sloping in the same direction. Two
streams flowing in opposite directions create a
natural part
Whorl
Hair that forms a circular pattern, as on the crown
Cowlick
A tuft of hair that stands straight up; can be found
anywhere but are more noticeable on the hairline
Dry hair & scalp
Caused by inactive sebaceous glands;
aggravated by dry winter or desert
climate
Appears dull, dry, lifeless
Avoid frequent shampooing
• Also avoid strong soaps, detergents, or
products w/high alcohol content
Oily hair & scalp
Caused by overactive sebaceous
glands; characterized by greasy building
on scalp & oily coating on hair
Clarifying shampoos help
Well-balanced diet
Exercise
Regular, frequent shampooing
• Good personal hygiene. Avoid strong soaps,
detergents, or products w/high content
Summary
In performing a hair analysis we use
sight, touch, hearing and smell
Texture, porosity, elasticity & density
are considered the most important
factors in the analysis of hair
Next lesson – hair growth