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M HNH TNH TON P LC SNG TC DNG LN TNG NG DA
TRN H PHNG TRNH NAVIER-STOKES HAI CHIU
Nguyn Danh Tho, Nguyn Th Duy
Trng i hc Bch Khoa, HQG - HCM
(Bi nhn ngy 06 thng 10 nm 2008, hon chnh sa cha ngy 15 thng 04 nm 2009)
TM TT: Bi bo ny ng dng v pht trin mt m hnh ton s da trn h phng trnh
Navier-Stokes hai chiu theo phng ng nhm m phng s bin i ca cc tham s sng lan truyn
trong vng pha trc tng ng theo thi gian v khng gian. M hnh s dng cc hm bin i
nhm bin i cc phng trnh ch o v cc iu kin bin t min vt l sang min tnh ton thng
qua mt li sai phn c khong cch khng u gia cc im nt. Ngoi cc tham s sng c bn, p
lc ng hc tc dng ln tng ng c tnh ton thng qua m hnh. Kt qu s ca m hnh c
kim chng bng cch so snh vi cc s liu th nghim cng nh vi cc m hnh l thuyt v thc
nghim khc. Cc so snh cho thy li gii s ca m hnh c th m phng kh hp l cc qu trnh
sng vng pha trc cng nh p lc sng tc dng ln tng ng.
T kha: p lc sng, tng ng, h phng trnh Navier-Stokes, h li sai phn khng u,
sng ng.
1. GII THIU
Song song vi s pht trin xy dng
chn sng tng ng, cc cng thc tnh ton
p lc sng ln tng ng cng khng ngng
c nghin cu v ci tin. Bng cch xem p
lc sng tng t nh mt tia nc p vo
tng ng, Hiroi (1919) a ra cng thc tnh
p lc sng phn b u trn sut chiu cao ca
tng ng v ln n cao gp 1.25 ln
chiu cao sng pha trn mc nc tnh. Cng
thc Hiroi phn nh kh tt p lc trung bnh
trn min b nh hng bi p lc sng. Tuy
nhin, p lc sng v tnh theo cng thc Hiroi
khng phn nh chnh xc cng p lc cc
b quan trc trong phng th nghim hay trong
thc t.
i vi sng c bin hu hn, Sainflou
(1928) da trn l thuyt sng trochoidal
thit lp cng thc tnh p lc sng v nhanh
chng c p dng rng ri. Phng php ny
s dng cc phng trnh thy ng lc hc
tng qut ca cht lng l tng i vi sng
ng su hn ch. Tuy nhin, kt qu
nghin cu thc nghim cho thy rng gi tr
ca tng p lc sng c tnh theo cng thc
Sainflou thng ln hn rt nhiu so vi thc
t trong trng hp sng dc v nh hn rt
nhiu trong trng hp sng thoi.
Minikin (1950) ngh cng thc tnh ton
p lc sng v da trn cc kt qu th nghim
ca Bagnold (Bagnold, 1939) v xt n p lc
sng git ln gy ra bi sng v gn mt
thong. Mc d vy, cng thc ny t c p
dng trong thc tin thit k cng trnh v c
nhiu gi tr d on qu ln so vi thc t. Ito
(1966) da vo cc m hnh thy lc thc
nghim a ra mt cng thc tnh ton p
lc sng cho c sng v v sng khng v, c
xt n vai tr ca chn bng cao su. Tip
theo , Tanimoto (1976) hiu chnh cng
thc ny tnh p lc sng c k n tc ng
ca sng xin gc vi b.
Da trn cc m hnh th nghim v s
dng cc phng php kinh nghim, Goda
(2000) a ra cc cng thc tnh p lc sng
dng trong thit k chn sng tng ng
da trn hng lot nhng th nghim v m
hnh thy lc, trong gi thit p lc phn b
dc theo tng ng c dng hnh thang. Cng
thc ny c p dng i vi c sng v ln
khng v v s dng chiu cao sng ln nht
trong nhm sng tnh ton.
Nhng nm gn y, nhiu tc gi cng
p dng nhiu phng php mi nghin cu
v p lc sng ln tng ng. Goda m
rng tnh ton m hnh vi sng bc nm v
cho n nay, m hnh ny vn l m hnh s
dng xp x c bc cao nht tnh sng ng
trong vng nc c chiu su hu hn. Mc d
vy, vn ch c mt s t cc nghin cu thnh
cng v vn ny m khng s dng gi thit
chuyn ng khng xoy. Cch gii trc tip
cc phng trnh bo ton khi lng v bo
ton ng lng trong h phng trnh Navier-
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Stokes ang dn c ch trng hn trong vic
tnh ton sng ng.
Trong phm vi bi bo ny, m hnh ch
tp trung m phng trng hp sng khng v
trc tng ng.
2. M HNH S HAI CHIU
2.1. Cc phng trnh ch o
H phng trnh Navier-Stokes l h
phng trnh ch o ca c hc lu cht da
trn cc nh lut v bo ton. i vi dng
chy ri ca cht lng trong mt phng thng
ng xz , phng trnh Navier-Stokes c
vit nh sau:
0 =

z
w
x
u
(1)
|
|
.
|

\
|

2
2
2
2 2
1 ) ( ) (
z
u
x
u
x
P
z
uw
x
u
t
u

(2)
|
|
.
|

\
|

2
2
2
2 2
1 ) ( ) (
z
w
x
w
z
P
g
z
w
x
uw
t
w

(3)
0 =

b
z
udz
x t
(4)
Vi u , w l cc thnh phn vn tc theo
phng x v z ; P l p lc; l cao trnh
mt thong;
b
z l cao trnh y bin; v l
h s nht ng hc.
Hnh 1 th hin nh ngha cc tham s
sng hai chiu.

Hnh 1. S nh ngha cc tham s sng hai chiu
2.2. Cc iu kin bin
iu kin bin i vi cc thng s sng
trong min vt l trong mt phng hai chiu
xz c xc nh nh sau:
o Bin mt thong ( ) = z
Mt thong l bin di ng trong m hnh.
V tr ca bin c xc nh ng vi mi bc
thi gian c th.
iu kin khng c ng sut ct i vi
vn tc theo phng ngang u v iu kin
bin ng hc i vi vn tc theo phng
ng w c gi nh ti mt thong.
0 =

z
u

x
u
t
w

=


iu kin bin cho p lc: 0 = P (7)
o Bin y bin ( )
b
z z =
iu kin khng trt c p dng cho
bin y:
0 = u
0 = w
Kt hp phng trnh lin tc (1), iu
kin khng trt v phng trnh bo ton
ng lng theo phng thng ng (3), ta
c iu kin bin Neumann cho p lc:
(

+ =

2
2
z
w
g
z
P

o Bin pha bin
Ty thuc vo tham s Ursell ti bin pha
bin, cc iu kin bin i vi cc tham s
sng c th c tnh theo l thuyt sng
Cnoidal hay l thuyt sng Stokes.
3
2
h
HL
U
r
=
Vi H l chiu cao sng ti; L l chiu
di sng ti; v h l su.
o Bin pha b
Bin pha b l chn sng c tit din
thng ng khng thm c. Do , sng ti
s phn x ton phn dc theo tng ng ti
bin.
Vi vn tc theo phng ngang 0 = u ti
bin pha b, iu kin bin ng hc i vi
w ti mt thong l:
t x
u
t
w
s

=


25: sng Cnoidal
< 25: Sng Stokes
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Gi thit w phn b tuyn tnh dc theo
chiu cao thng ng t 0 n
s
w .
h
z
w w
s
= (13)
iu kin bin Neumann i vi p lc P
ti tng ng c xc nh bng cch s
dng phng trnh ng lng theo phng x
v iu kin phn x ton phn:
2
2
x
u
x
P

(14)
2.3. To li sai phn
xy dng mt m hnh thng nht,
trong lp bin y v vng trn lp bin c
th gii ng thi, mt h thng im li sai
phn khng u c thit lp (Duy, 1996;
Tho, 2003). Trong min vt l, mt thong l
mt bin di ng theo s chuyn ng ca
sng. y bin cng l i lng thay i theo
khng gian.
( ) t x, =
( ) x z z
b b
=


Hnh 2. Min tnh ton v li sai phn ca m hnh
Nh vy, min vt l c li cong v di
ng. Nhm gii cc phng trnh ch o mt
cch d dng hn, li cong ny c a v
li tnh ton thng. mi thi im tnh ton,
min vt l ) , , ( t z x c bin i thnh min
tnh ton ( ) , , nh cc php bin i sau:
x = (17)
( )
( ) ( ) x z t x
x z z
b
b
m

=
,
(18)
t = (19)
Vi
m
l chiu di theo phng ng ln
nht trong min tnh ton.
Hnh 2 th hin li sai phn khng u
trong min tnh ton c bin i t min vt
l. Cc phng trnh ch o v iu kin bin
cng s c bin i v gii trong min tnh
ton ny bng cch s dng ma trn Jacobian
bin i ta .
2.4. Phng trnh Navier-Stokes bin
i
Cc phng trnh ch o (1) n (4) c
bin i trong min tnh ton nh sau:
0 =

w u u
z x

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( )
( )
(

|
|
.
|

\
|

+ +

+
|
|
.
|

\
|

u u u u
P P uw u u u u
x
x
x
z x x
x z x t
2
2
2 2
2
2
2
2 2
2
1 ) ( ) (
(21)
( )
( )
(

|
|
.
|

\
|

+ +

w w w w
P
g
w uw uw w w
x
x
x
z x x
z
z x t
2
2
2 2
2
2
2
2
2
) ( ) (
(22)
0 =

b
z
udz
x t
(23)
Lu l phng trnh (23) khng c
chuyn i sang min tnh ton ( ) , , v
bin di ng ti b mt nc c xc nh
trc tip t min vt l ( ) t z x , , bng cch s
dng vn tc theo phng ngang bin i
ngc li t vn tc tnh c t min tnh
ton.
2.5. Li so le
Tin hnh gii cc phng trnh bin i
v cc iu kin bin lin quan bng phng
php sai phn hu hn theo li so le nh Hnh
3. Cc n s cn tnh l mt nc, p lc v
vn tc tng thi im khc nhau. P c
xem nh l im ti tm cc li, u v w l
im ti cnh cc li.

Hnh 3. Li so le
i vi cc phng trnh (20) n (23), sai
phn trung tm c s dng khai trin i
vi cc im li ) , ( j i , ) ,
2
1
( j i + ,
)
2
1
, ( + j i . iu ny cho php tt c cc o
hm c th c ly chnh xc n bc hai vi
s lng im li nh nht, ng thi cng
gip d dng tnh c quan h vi nhng
im u, w v P im li gn k cng nh
lm tng s n nh ca li gii so vi sai phn
trung tm s dng li khng so le.
Cc phng trnh (20) n (23) c gii
bng cch ly sai phn na n.
2.6. Li gii s ca m hnh
Cao trnh mt thong c tnh ton da
vo cc o hm ring phn t cc phng
trnh bin i trong min tnh ton. y l cc
hm theo ) , ( t x , ph thuc vo s thay i ca
mc nc v c xc nh ti thi im bt
u ca mi bc thi gian tnh ton.
Cc phng trnh p lc c thit lp cho
tng loi nt ring bit trong li s v cho h
phng trnh tuyn tnh:
{ }{ } { } B P A = . (24)
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Vi { } A l ma trn h s; { } B l vect
cc gi tr bit; v { } P l vect p lc cn
phi gii.
H phng trnh tuyn tnh (24) c s n
s rt ln v xu chui vi nhau gia cc
phng trnh. Do , php truy ui v kh
dn c p dng nhm lm cho php tnh
nhanh v t hiu qu cao hn.
Sau khi c trng p lc, cc thnh phn
vn tc ti cc im trong li s c th c
d dng tnh ton. Sau , cao trnh mt thong
c tnh ton li cho bc thi gian k tip.
Sau khi hon tt li gii trong min tnh
ton, cc kt qu s c bin i ngc tr li
ng vi v tr thc trong min vt l theo quan
h sau:
= x (25)
) 5 . 1 (
2
max

+ = j
j
z
z z
b
b

(26)
Vi
max
j l ch s j (theo phng thng
ng) ln nht.
3. KT QU CA M HNH
Kt qu m hnh c tnh ton trong bn
trng hp. Cc iu kin sng ti c th
hin trong Bng 1. Nhm n gin ha vic
tnh ton, dc y trong tt c cc trng
hp u l nm ngang.
Bng 1. Cc thng s sng ti ng vi tng
trng hp tnh ton
Trng
hp
Chiu cao
sng
Chu k su
dc
y
C1 5.5cm 2.0s 40cm 0
C2 17.1cm 2.31s 70cm 0
C3 26.4cm 2.33s 70cm 0
C4 14.4cm 2.86s 70cm 0
3.1. ng mt sng
Hnh 4 biu din dao ng theo thi gian
ca mt nc trong mt chu k tnh ton ng
vi cc trng hp khc nhau. Dao ng mt
nc c biu din ti cc v tr khc nhau t
nt sng n bng sng, vi X l khong cch
theo phng ngang t im ang xt n tng
ng v L l chiu di sng. Kt qu cho thy
ti v tr nt sng ( ) 25 . 0 / = L X , dao ng ca
mt nc theo thi gian l khng ng k.
Trong khi , ti v tr bng sng ( ) 0 / = L X ,
dao ng ca mt nc c bin cc i. Kt
qu ny l ph hp vi l thuyt sng ng.


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Hnh 4. Dao ng theo thi gian ca mt nc trong mt chu k tnh ton
(trng hp C3)

0.35
0.40
0.45
0.50
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
x (m)
z

(
m
)
t/T = 0.0
t/T = 0.1
t/T = 0.2
t/T = 0.3
t/T = 0.4
t/T = 0.5
t/T = 0.6
t/T = 0.7
t/T = 0.8
t/T = 0.9

Hnh 5. ng mt sng ti nhng thi im tnh ton khc nhau (trng hp C1)
Hnh 5 th hin ng mt sng ti nhng
thi im khc nhau trong mt chu k tnh ton
vng trc tng ng. Khi biu din tt c
cc ng mt sng ny trn cng mt hnh v,
cc nt sng v bng sng s c th hin r
rng.
Nhn xt rng trong tt c cc trng hp,
ta cng u thu c hnh nh bng sng
ngay ti v tr tng ng. iu ny trng hp
vi kt qu thc t ca sng ng. Nh vy,
iu kin bin c p dng ti bin pha b l
kh hp l.
3.2. Trng vn tc
M hnh sau khi gii s cho gi tr vn tc
theo phng ngang u v vn tc theo phng
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ng w ti tng bc thi gian tnh ton. Hnh
6 th hin ton cnh trng lu tc tnh ton
i vi cc pha khc nhau trong mt chu k
sng (trng hp C2). Kt qu cho thy m
hnh m phng kh tt vn tc ca cc phn t
nc trong vng sng ng pha trc cng
trnh. Mc d thiu s liu th nghim kim
chng nhng c th thy rng li gii s ca
vn tc l kh ph hp vi l thuyt tnh ton,
k c i vi cc im trong lp bin y v
bin mt thong.
3.3. Phn b p lc sng ti tng ng
Hnh 7 th hin cc kt qu tnh ton phn
b p lc sng theo phng thng ng dc
theo b mt chn sng tng ng i vi
bn trng hp tnh ton nh nu. Cc kt
qu tnh ton c so snh vi cc s liu o
c trong phng th nghim v vi m hnh
sng bc bn ca Goda v Kakizaki (1966).
Cc so snh cho thy rng m hnh cho kt qu
tng i ph hp so vi cc s liu o c
trong phng th nghim. Li gii thu c t
m hnh cng c kt qu kh ph hp vi cc
s liu ca m hnh thc nghim ca Goda v
Kakizaki. y l m hnh c kim chng
v c cng nhn rng ri. Do , c th kt
lun rng m hnh s c p dng cho kt qu
tnh ton p lc sng ln chn sng tng
ng ph hp vi l thuyt sng bc bn
Hnh 6. Trng vn tc trong vng trc chn sng tng ng (trng hp C2)
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(a) Trng hp C1
(b) Trng hp C2

(c) Trng hp C3 (d) Trng hp C4
Hnh 7. Phn b p lc sng ti b mt chn sng tng ng
M hnh tnh ton
M hnh Goda
S liu o c
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Cc s liu th nghim o c c cng
nh m hnh thc nghim u cho thy rng p
lc sng ln nht xut hin vng ngang bng
vi mc nc tnh. Trong trng hp chn
sng xut hin ti b mt tng ng, p lc
sng tr nn nh hn p lc thy ng di
mc nc tnh. p lc ny c xu hng y
tng ng v pha bin. iu ny cng kh
ph hp vi kt qu tnh ton t m hnh.
4. KT LUN
Mt m hnh tnh ton p lc sng ln
tng ng da trn h phng trnh Navier-
Stokes hai chiu c ng dng. M hnh c
xy dng da trn iu kin khng tn ti sng
v trc v ln cn cng trnh, b qua
chuyn ng ri. thu c phn gii cao
trong vng ln cn y, m hnh s dng
cc hm bin i nhm a cc phng trnh
ch o v cc iu kin bin t min vt l
sang min tnh ton thng qua mt li sai
phn c khong cch khng u gia cc im
nt. Vi vic gii trc tip phng trnh
Navier-Stokes, m hnh m phng tng i
hon chnh s lan truyn sng trong mt phng
thng ng hai chiu pha trc tng ng
theo thi gian.
Thng qua m hnh, cc thng s sng
trong mt phng thng ng hai chiu cng
nh phn b p lc sng ln b mt tng ng
c xc nh. Kt qu tnh ton p lc sng
cho thy li gii s c th m phng tng i
chnh xc v kh tin cy khi so snh vi cc m
hnh l thuyt cng nh cc s liu o c
trong phng th nghim.
SIMULATION OF WAVE PRESSURE ON A VERTICAL WALL BASED ON 2-D
NAVIER-STOKES EQUATIONS
Nguyen Danh Thao, Nguyen The Duy
University of Technology, VNU-HCM
ABSTRACT: This paper applies and develops a numerical model based on the two-dimensional
vertical Navier-Stokes equations to simulate the temporal and spatial variations of wave parameters in
front of vertical walls. A non-uniform grids system is performed in the numerical solution of the model
by transforming a variable physical domain to a fixed computational domain. Through present model,
beside some basic hydrodynamic problems of water waves such as wave profile and water particle
velocities, standing wave pressures at the wall are examined. Numerical results of the present model are
compared with laboratory data and with existing empirical and theoretical models. The comparisons
show that the model can simulate reasonably the wave processes of the waves in front of vertical walls
as well as the wave pressures on the wall.
Keywords: Wave pressure, vertical wall, Navier-Stokes equations, non-uniform grids system,
standing waves.

TI LIU THAM KHO
[1] Bagnold, R.A., Interim report on
wave pressure research. P. Inst. C.
Eng., 12, pp. 202-226, (1939).
[2] Duy, N. T., A turbulent flow and
sand suspension model in the surf
zone, Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. Civil
Eng., Yokohama National University,
(1996).
[3] Goda, Y., Random seas and design
of maritime structures. World
Scientific, 2
nd
edition, Chapter 4, pp.
126-166, (2000).
[4] Goda, Y. and Kakizaki, S., Study on
the finite amplitude standing waves
Science & Technology Development, Vol 12, No.18- 2009

Trang 68
and their pressures on a vertical wall,
Report of the Port and Harbour
Technical Res. Inst., Vol 5, No. 10,
(1966).
[5] Hiroi, I., On a method of estimating
the force of waves. J. College of Eng.,
University of Tokyo, 10(1), pp. 119,
(1919).
[6] Ito, Y., Fujishima, M., and Kitatani,
T., On the stability of breakwaters.
Rep. of Port and Harbour Res. Inst.,
5(14), 134 p., (1966).
[7] Minikin, R.R., Winds, waves and
maritime structures. Charles Griffin,
London, (1950).
[8] Nguyn Danh Tho, Tnh ton sng
trc tng ng da trn phng
trnh Navier-Stokes hai chiu, Lun
vn Thc s, Trng HBK
Tp.HCM, (2003).
[9] Sainflou, G., Essai sur les digues
maritimes verticales. Annales des
Ponts et Chausses, Paris, 98(4),
pp.548, (1928).
[10] Tanimoto, T. et al., An experimental
investigation of wave reflection,
overtopping and wave forces for
several types of breakwaters and sea
walls. Tech. Note of Port and Harbour
Res. Inst., No. 246, 38p, (1976).